Dispossession has been playing a central role in capitalist accumulation over the last four-hundred-year history of modern capitalism. This dissertation theorizes how dispossession contributes to producing and reproducing the capitalist mode of production in Bangladesh. To do so, the dissertation empirically examines three interrelated aspects of dispossession in its three analytical chapters. First, it explores how the state and the market work in tandem to organize and control dispossession while grabbing land and expelling peasants from their places. Next, it investigates how dispossession contributes to providing 'potential capitals,' such as grabbed land and dispossessed peasants, to the production sites to be converted into 'constant capital' and 'variable capital' and to creating antagonistic class relations. Finally, it explores how market and non-market actors control those dispossessed peasants-turned-workers inside and outside factories to produce surplus values in order to reproduce the capitalist system locally and globally. These three interactive components of dispossession show three successive phases of capitalist accumulation: land-grabbing by divorcing independent producers from their livelihoods (the initial phase), converting land into capital, peasants into wage workers, and non-capitalists into capitalists (the intermediate phase), and controlling and exploiting those wage workers to produce surpluses or a cycle of new capital (the final phase). This dissertation accordingly advances a full-scale theory of dispossession in its concluding chapter by examining how the starting, intermediate, and ending points of dispossession contribute to capitalist accumulation. The dissertation draws on a wide range of empirical evidence collected from Panthapath, Dhaka, Bangladesh. These include 77 life histories, 50 interviews, a land-use survey of 1,007 structures, and a short survey of 147 slums. It also uses various historical records and archival documents. The three major findings of this dissertation are as follows. First, the dissertation shows that the state acts as a class to organize land grabs, often working in tandem with the private sector, but also in direct competition with the market. Not only does the state monopolize extra-economic means to grab land, but the market also often gains access to extra-economic means. Next, the dissertation shows that dispossession works to privatize the commons, proletarianize subsistence labor, create antagonistic class relations, and redistribute wealth upward. Finally, the dissertation identifies a new regime of labor control, called social despotism, that dominates and exploits workers in factories to produce surpluses. I conclude this study with policy recommendations designed to address the various dimensions of structural injustice described in this dissertation. / Doctor of Philosophy / This dissertation theorizes how dispossession contributes to producing and reproducing the capitalist mode of production in Bangladesh. In its three analytical chapters, the dissertation empirically examines three interrelated aspects of dispossession. First, it explores how the state and the market work in tandem to organize and control dispossession while grabbing land and expelling peasants from their places. Next, it investigates how dispossession contributes to providing grabbed land and dispossessed peasants to the production sites and to creating various class hierarchies. Finally, it explores how market and non-market actors control peasants-turned-workers inside and outside factories to produce surplus values in order to reproduce the capitalist system. These three interactive components of dispossession show three successive phases of capitalist accumulation: land-grabbing by evicting peasants from their places (phase 1), converting land into capital, peasants into wage workers, and non-capitalists into capitalists (phase 2), and exploiting wage workers to produce surpluses (phase 3). This dissertation accordingly advances a full-scale theory of dispossession in its concluding chapter by examining how the starting, intermediate, and ending points of dispossession contribute to capitalist accumulation. The dissertation draws on a wide range of empirical evidence collected from Panthapath, Dhaka, Bangladesh. These include 77 life histories, 50 interviews, a land-use survey of 1,007 structures, and a short survey of 147 slums. It also uses various historical records and archival documents. Some of the major findings of this dissertation are as follows. First, the dissertation shows that the state acts as a class to organize land grabs, often working in tandem with the private sector, but also in direct competition with the market. Not only does the state monopolize extra-economic means to grab land, but the market also often gains access to extra-economic means. Next, the dissertation shows that dispossession works to privatize the commons, proletarianize subsistence labor, create exploitative class relations, and redistribute wealth upward. Finally, the dissertation identifies a new regime of labor control, called social despotism, that oppresses and exploits workers in factories to produce surpluses.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Joy Kozar / This study examines colonization, development, and globalization in the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI) with respect to the garment industry, the main industry of the islands. A broad-reaching analysis examined population, gender, economic factors, and import/export data in order to explore the repercussions of garment industry development and subsequent decline on the CNMI. A quantitative analysis was conducted utilizing data from the United States Census Bureau, the CNMI's Department of Commerce, and the U.S. Department of Commerce Office of Textiles and Apparel. This research illustrates how the effects of the garment industry in small developing nations are dramatically impacted by a trade arrangement, the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA), which was a protectionist measure used to restrict manufacturing of certain product through a quota system. In addition, this study reveals the economic implications and societal outcomes for the CNMI after the collapse of the garment industry as a result of the 2005 MFA phase-out. Garment production orders shifted to large producer nations once quota restrictions were no longer in place. Factory closures, lost business revenue, and a loss of manufacturing positions affecting predominantly women plagued the CNMI as well as cost-of-living increases. Federalization of the CNMI took place in 2009 which further complicated the islands’ politics and guest worker population status. Tourism is now the CNMI's chief industry although its growth is dismal and heavily reliant upon world economies. A comparison between Mauritius, another small island nation, concludes the discussion with insight on women's development and future considerations for economic growth as a means of development and dependency in the CNMI.

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher's earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.

Purpose: The purpose of this research is to explore current practices regarding circular economies in the apparel industry and to construct a framework for integrating circular economy practices in the Swedish apparel industry. Methodology: With a constructionist view and an abductive approach the purpose is to be achieved through two qualitative case studies. The themes identified were analysed and interpreted. Theoretical perspectives: The theoretical framework is based upon a business context, on the basis of the textile management in general and logistics, recycling, sustainability and reverse systems in particular. Empirical foundation: The empirical material consists primarily of 9 in-depth semi-structured interviews with various roles at Uniforms for the Dedicated and Filippa K, as well as through a Skype interview with the project manager of Re:Design Studio. They have been asked to talk about their view of sustainability, their practices and future developments. Conclusion: When integrating circular practices in the value chain the authors have identified five main areas that should be integrated, in order to develop towards a circular economy: reimagine, reduce, reuse, repair and recycle. / Program: Applied Textile Management

Problem Since the globalisation has enabled apparel companies to purchase materialsand goods from all around the world, the constant challenge is to find themost beneficial country and supplier who can provide the highest value tothe lowest cost. There are however factors to be considered in the aspect ofsupplier selection and the decision is often made through assessment ofnation-specific resources like labour costs, deliveries, trade restrictions andquality. It is important for apparel companies to relate the outcome of asupplier evaluation to the own company strategy or product characteristicsas factors may be more or less crucial depending on the strategy or producttype the company possess. With wages now increasing in Europe, Ukraine ispredicted to become a new apparel-producing alternative for Swedishcompanies. However, there is no evident niche in Ukrainian apparelproduction, which can be set in the context of company and productcharacteristics.Purpose The purpose of this thesis is to perform a supplier evaluation of Ukraine anddiscuss what company and product characteristics that might be moresuitable for producing apparel in Ukraine.Methodology A qualitative research has been carried out on a MFS scholarship for eightweeks in Ukraine. The empirical findings are based upon semi-structuredinterviews with five experts and observations and interviews in six factories.A supplier evaluation model is created upon the existing theories and theempirical results are discussed in the context of company and productcharacteristics.Conclusion A company should consider evaluating multiple factors and theinterrelationships between the factors in ability to reach a fulfilling supplierselection. It can be argued that there are predominantly characteristics foundto suit companies with the cost leadership strategy or functional products.Furthermore, because of trade rules and a low access to materials mostUkrainian factories work on Cut-Make contracts with foreign customers.Problem: Globaliseringen av klädindustrin har bidragit till att klädföretag köper materialoch färdiga plagg från länder runt om i världen. Det är en ständig utmaning atthitta det landet och den tillverkaren som erbjuder det högsta värdet till den lägstakostnaden.Det finns många olika faktorer som man bör ta hänsyn till i ettleverantörsval och beslutet är oftast taget genom utvärdering av nationsspecifikaresurser som lönekostnader, leveranser, kvalitet och handelshinder. Det är viktigtför företag att utvärdera länder och leverantörer utefter företagets egna strategieroch produkternas karaktär eftersom olika faktorer vid leverantörsutvärdering kanvara olika viktiga beroende på företag och produkter. När lönekostnaderna stiger iövriga Europa framträder Ukraina som ett möjligt produktionsland som spås enframtid som ett alternativ för svenska klädföretag. Ukraina har däremot ingen klarnisch, vilket är intressant att titta närmare på i samband med olikaföretagsstrategier och produkttyper.Syfte: Syftet med studien är att göra en leverantörsutvärdering av Ukraina somklädproducent och diskutera vilka företagsstrategier och produkttyper som kanlämpa sig bäst för produktion i Ukraina.Metod: Uppsatsen är skriven på ett MFS-stipendium under åtta veckor i Ukraina. Detempiriska resultatet är baserat på semi-strukturerade intervjuer och observationer isex stycken klädesfabriker och intervjuer med fem stycken experter. En modell förleverantörssutvärdering är skapad från existerande teorier och det empiriskaresultatet av utvärderingen diskuteras i samband med olika företagsstrategier ochprodukttyper.Slutsatser: Ett företag bör överväga att utvärdera flera faktorer och deras inbördes sambandför att kunna uppnå ett tillfredsställande leverantörsval. Det har påfunnits flestkaraktärsdrag som passar företag med en kostnadsstrategi eller funktionellaprodukter. På grund av handelsregler och dålig tillgång till material jobbar deflesta ukrainska producenter med Cut-Make kontrakt mot utländska kunder. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

This thesis studies the impact of market orientation on the business performance of the Sri Lankan apparel manufacturing organizations in the post MFA environment. An attempt is made to enhance the existing market orientation theory by addressing a research gap and highlighting the importance of the relationship perspective in business to business marketing. A four dimensional market orientation construct is developed to overcome the limitations identified in the extant market orientation theories. The study also identifies resource availability as an antecedent of market orientation along with six other antecedents which are commonly discussed in literature. It further investigates whether the market orientation-business performance relationship is moderated by the prevailing business environment. The proposed modifications to the theory are empirically tested within the context of the apparel industry.

Bakgrund I takt med en ökad digitalisering sker handel idag inte endast i fysiska butiker. Fler och fler klädföretag använder idag e-handel som försäljningskanal för att sälja sina produkter, samtidigt som efterfrågan från konsumenter är i ständig förändring. Trycket på att tillgodose kundernas behov och skapa kundnöjdhet sätter press på företagsledningar att använda flera kanaler, känt som multikanalförsäljning. Som följd har begreppet multichannel customer management vuxit fram som lyfter vikten av att utvärdera sina kanaler för att i sin tur kunna allokera resurser till respektive kanal. Syfte Syftet med studien är att inom klädbranschen undersöka hur ett antal nyckelfaktorer påverkar kundnöjdheten inom fysiska försäljningskanaler respektive e-handelskanaler. Vidare ämnar studien förklara vilka av nyckelfaktorerna företag för respektive försäljningskanal bör fokusera på i syfte att uppnå kundnöjdhet och i sin tur kundlojalitet. Genomförande Med ett realistiskt perspektiv, en deduktiv ansats och en kvantitativ metod har 8 hypoteser tagits fram utifrån befintlig forskning. Den empiriska undersökningen bestod av en enkät som delades ut på Linköpings universitet och besvarades av 224 studenter inom Generation Y. Vidare användes programmet SPSS för att genomföra en statistisk analys av insamlad primärdata. Slutsats För att uppnå kundnöjdhet och i sin tur kundlojalitet visar studiens resultat att företag, för sin fysiska försäljningskanal, bör fokusera på faktorerna service, tillgänglighet, tid och säkerhet. Studiens resultat visar även att företag för sin e-handelskanal bör fokusera på produktgaranti, tid och säkerhet för att uppnå kundnöjdhet och kundlojalitet. / Background: Companies today are, due to an increased digitization, forced to use more than traditional stores to reach out to their customers. More and more retailers are now using online stores to meet an even broader market and to attain customer satisfaction. Using more than one channel has become known as multichannel retailing, from which a concept known as multichannel customer management has started to grow. The concept says that as the number of channels used increase, companies need to evaluate their channels in order to allocate resources to each one. Purpose: The purpose with the study is to examine how a couple of key factors, in the apparel industry, affect customer satisfaction in traditional and online channels. The study aims to explain which one of these factors each channel should focus on to achieve customer satisfaction and customer loyalty. Completion: With a realistic perspective, deductive approach and quantitative method 8 hypothesis have been tested. The empirical study was conducted by handing out a survey on Linköping University and in total 224 respondents within Generation Y answered. To analyze the collected data, the statistical software SPSS was used. Conclusion: In order to accomplish customer satisfaction and customer loyalty the study shows that companies, for their traditional stores, should focus on service, accessibility, time and safety. The results of the study shows that companies, for their online stores, should focus on product guarantee, time and safety.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-05-08T14:53:30Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 arquivototal.pdf: 1228003 bytes, checksum: ecee90ab4abb959d946fe2e48d182219 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011-08-17 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This thesis evaluates the use of production planning and control (PCP) in a sample of five small business apparel clothing based in Fortaleza. This is a descriptive and exploratory character. The research was done in small businesses, in accordance with the criteria of similarity of the productive process and organizational structure as well as the willingness to respond with any information necessary for the preparation of the work. Collecting information and data provided through structured interviews, questionnaires, covering topics related to the object of study. The results showed that: a) the companies structure their production system formally, using a "mix" of techniques involving those related to JIT and MRP system, strategically tailored to their realities; b) as regards the commercial area, the studied organizations are required to produce various collections during the year, each absorbs a portfolio of products with differentiated participation in the composition of production, considering color, size, accessories, and other, resulting from fluctuations in demand generated by natural aspects such as seasons, fashion trends and competitive actions that work directly or indirectly in setting up a business strategy that has the CFP a technique of rare importance in competitive reality, interfering so in production scheduling; c) companies use the faction and outsourcing in some stages of the production process, in order to meet the demand, in fact, there are large interference in production scheduling. Finally, the garment segment has specific features that require a robust PCP that can adjust to the characteristics of the sector, the lack of this technique generates consequences in bulk or in the diversification of products. The companies studied, although using the CFP system, some already computerized, not yet freed from manual control planning and production scheduling. / Esta dissertação avalia a utilização do Planejamento e Controle de Produção (PCP) em uma amostra de cinco pequenas empresas de confecções de vestuário sediadas em Fortaleza. Trata-se de uma pesquisa de caráter descritivo e exploratório. A pesquisa foi feita em empresas de pequeno porte, segundo os critérios de similaridade do processo produtivo e estrutura organizacional, bem como a disponibilidade em responder as informações necessárias para a confecção do trabalho. A coleta de informações e dados deu-se através de entrevistas estruturadas, mediante a aplicação de questionário, abordando temas relacionados ao objeto de estudo. Os resultados demonstraram que: a) as empresas estruturam o seu sistema de produção formalmente, utilizando um mix de técnicas envolvendo aquelas relacionadas ao sistema JIT e MRP, estrategicamente adaptadas às suas realidades internas; b) no que se refere ao atendimento à área comercial, as organizações estudadas são obrigadas a produzir várias coleções durante o ano, cada uma absorve um portfólio de produtos com diferenciada participação na composição dos lotes de fabricação, considerando cor, tamanho, acessórios, e outros, resultante das oscilações da demanda gerada por aspectos naturais, como estações do ano, tendências da moda e ações da concorrência que atuam direta e indiretamente na configuração de uma estratégia comercial que tem no PCP uma técnica de rara importância na realidade competitiva, interferindo assim na programação da produção; c) as empresas utilizam a facção e a terceirização em algumas etapas do processo de produção, para atender à demanda, com efeito, há grande interferência na programação da produção. Por fim, o segmento do vestuário possui especificidades que exigem um PCP robusto que possa se ajustar às características do setor, a inexistência desta técnica gera consequências no volume ou na diversificação dos produtos. Nas empresas estudadas, embora utilizem o sistema de PCP, algumas já informatizadas, ainda não se libertaram do controle manual do planejamento e da programação da produção.

The apparel industry is one of the first industries being criticized and publicly shamed for not taking enough social responsibility for the workers in their supply chain. Today, most of the apparel production takes place in developing countries such as Bangladesh, China, Cambodia and Vietnam. Social issues in the apparel supply chain are often related to health and safety, minimum wages, overtime, child labor and the lack of freedom of association. Controlling these social issues is difficult since the apparel companies and their suppliers are geographically and culturally separated. Furthermore, the production of apparel takes place in countries with weaker legal frameworks not being strict enough to protect the workers' rights. Hence, the apparel companies face major challenges in controlling the fulfillment of international standards from the International Labor Organization and United Nations. There is a lack of research on the topic related to social sustainability practices in the supply chain and researchers state that it requires more attention, by focusing on how companies' code of conducts (CoC) and international standards can be used more effectively in the context of sourcing and social responsibility. To address the research gap, the purpose of the study is to understand how brand-owning apparel companies in Scandinavia control social sustainability in their supplier networks. Based on those findings, we will compare the relation between the empirical data and what theories and international standards illustrate as critical aspects for controlling social sustainability. In the study, we have conducted semi-structured interviews with seven Scandinavian apparel companies. Since social sustainability can be a sensitive topic for companies to share information on, we have also conducted an interview with Nina Wertholz, working at the non-profit organization Fair Action, providing a different perspective. By using a thematic analysis, two main themes have been identified that together answer the research question, namely control measures and factors affecting control. Firstly, control measures relate to what the companies' control consists of and our findings demonstrate risk assessments, code of conduct, audits, and measurement as the main tools. Still, we conclude that these control measures are not sufficient to control social sustainability in the supplier network. Secondly, factors affecting control can explain the outcome of controlling social sustainability. Findings advocate that a good collaboration, providing support and a shared interest can facilitate a higher degree of control. Additionally, our findings shows that companies with smaller order quantities have less influence and control over their supplier's social sustainability practices. We also infer that the number of suppliers and which countries the companies choose to source from will affect the obtained level of control. Furthermore, decisions regarding the supplier base and the sourcing country are active choices made by the companies. Lastly, we conclude that the companies' purchasing behavior can affect the level of control related to wages, incomes, and overtime for the workers in the apparel supply chain.

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen.. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher¿s earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective/ or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/ exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.