Este trabalho resultou de uma investigação que objetivou verificar e analisar, do ponto de vista de trabalhadoras que se submeteram a cirurgia plástica estética, se e de que modo o embelezamento físico se mostra como requisito da gestão gerencialista para o exercício do trabalho imaterial. Para tanto a revisão da literatura abrangeu trabalho imaterial, através de autores como Gorz, Grisci e Pelbart, gestão gerencialista, através de autores como Gaulejac e Chanlat, e embelezamento físico, através de autores como Mansano, Bauman e Lipovetsky. Trata-se de uma pesquisa qualitativa e exploratória, e, para sua realização foram entrevistados seis cirurgiões plásticos e seis trabalhadoras, indicadas por estes, que se submeteram a cirurgia plástica estética. As entrevistas ocorreram em três cidades do Rio Grande do Sul. A análise dos dados deu-se segundo os parâmetros de Minayo (2001). As evidências empíricas mostraram que, no caso das trabalhadoras entrevistadas, o embelezamento físico pode ser considerado requisito da gestão gerencialista para o exercício do trabalho imaterial. Além disso, mostraram que características da gestão gerencialista e do trabalho imaterial encontravam-se na narrativa das trabalhadoras estudadas. Mostraram ainda que os cirurgiões plásticos estéticos entrevistados, confirmam a tese de que, no caso, das trabalhadoras analisadas, a cirurgia plástica estética pode ser considerada um elemento de embelezamento físico utilizado a fim de se conseguir retorno no trabalho de cada uma. Por fim, as narrativas revelaram que a cirurgia plástica estética é também um artifício utilizado pelas trabalhadoras entrevistadas na tentativa de manter-se dentro de um determinado padrão de embelezamento físico que pode gerar rendimentos ao trabalho imaterial. / This paper is the result of a study that aimed to verify and analyze, from the point of view of workers that underwent cosmetic plastic surgery, if and how physical beautification is a requirement of managerialism to perform immaterial labor. The literature review included immaterial labor, through authors such as Gorz, Grisci and Pelbart, managerialism, through authors such as Gaulejac and Chanlat, and physical beautification, through authors such as Mansano, Bauman and Lipovetsky. This is a qualitative and exploratory research, and six plastic surgeons and six female workers were interviewed, workers who were referred by the surgeons and had undergone plastic surgery. The interviews took place in three cities of Rio Grande do Sul. Data analysis was performed according to Minayo’s parameters (2001). Empirical evidence has shown that, in the case of female workers interviewed, physical beautification may be considered a requirement of managerial management for the exercise of immaterial labor. In addition, they showed that characteristics of managerialist management and immaterial work were found in the narrative of the workers studied. They also showed that the aesthetic plastic surgeons interviewed confirm the thesis that, in the case of the workers analyzed, cosmetic plastic surgery can be considered as a physical embellishment element used in order to achieve a return in the work of each one. Finally, the narratives revealed that cosmetic plastic surgery is also an artifice used by the workers interviewed in an attempt to keep within a certain pattern of physical beautification that can generate income for immaterial labor.

Esta tese analisa dois arranjos produtivos locais na região do Grande ABC Paulista: Pólo de Cosméticos e o APL de Plástico, a partir da perspectiva dos ciclos de vida adaptativos complexos. O objetivo principal é o de conhecer suas dinâmicas evolutivas e analisar quais são os fatores que impactam cada uma das suas fases, principalmente aquelas que podem levá-lo a uma interrupção de atividade. Para tanto, são consideradas as trajetórias históricas destas duas unidades de análise, compostas pelos mais diversos atores: poder público, instituições sociais, instituições empresariais, educacionais e as micro, pequenas e médias empresas. Com base no modelo de ciclo de vida adaptativo complexo de Martin & Sunley (2011) e de fatores locais e globais em arranjos produtivos proposto por Elola et al. (2012), são analisados o período de doze anos do arranjo de cosméticos e dez anos do arranjo de plástico. São entrevistadas 5 lideranças que atuaram no passado e 5 lideranças que estão participando atualmente dos arranjos. Como instrumento e procedimento metodológico é adotado o protocolo de estudo de caso com técnica qualitativa de análise de conteúdo, utilizando-se o software Atlas TI. Além das variáveis dependentes e independentes são apontadas variáveis intervenientes por tratar-se de uma pesquisa ex-post-facto. Em ambos os casos o estudo confirma uma trajetória dinâmica não linear, a partir das fases: nascimento, crescimento, maturidade, morte, declínio e rejuvenescimento. Nota-se que a origem dos arranjos diferencia-se quanto à fase de formação inicial (nascimento), enquanto o arranjo de cosmético nasce de forma endógena o arranjo de plástico é fruto de um movimento induzido, fato que é analisado por ter seus desdobramentos ao longo da trajetória de ambos. Os fatores que levam os arranjos à fase de interrupção ou declínio no caso do Cosmético estão ligados à: relação política, transição de liderança, atuação isolada e empresas âncora. No caso do Plástico referem-se à: concepção de projeto, governança, transição de liderança e relação de confiança empresarial. Além disso este estudo aponta para o fato de que há necessidade de considerar a teoria sobre evolução dos ciclos de vida de APLs sob a perspectiva de um processo dinâmico com possibilidades de múltiplos caminhos que poderão ser experienciados pelo APL ao longo do seu ciclo de vida, evitando-se assim uma visão reducionista de um ciclo de vida linear com início, meio e fim. / This thesis analysis two clusters in the Grande ABC Paulista region: Cosmetic and Plastic, from the adaptable complex life´s cycle perspectives. The main objective is to know the evolution of its dynamics and analyse which factors contribute in each of these phases, mainly for the ones that can lead you to an interrupted activity. All of the historical paths related to these two units of analyses therefore will be considered, made up of the most several actors: public power, social institutions, business institutions, educational and the micro, small and middle-sized companies. Based on the adaptable complex life cycle model by Martin & Sunley (2011) and the local and global factors into the productive arrangements proposed by Elola et al. (2012), the ten-year-cosmetic arrangement and the ten-year-plastic arrangement are being analyzed. Both five leadership who belonged to the past and five leadership who take part at present in the arrangements are being interviewed. As a procedure and a methodological instrument the case study is adopted within a qualitative technique of the content analysis, using the Atlas TI software. In addition to the dependable and undependable varieties, intervene varieties are also pointed due to an ex-post-facto research. In both cases the study confirms a non- linear dynamic path since the phases of: birth, growth, maturity, death, decline and youthfulness. It is observed that the origin of the arrangements differ from the initial formation (birth) although the cosmetic arrangements is born inside its organism, the plastic arrangement is composed of the inductive movement by analyzing their relations among them. The main factors that lead the arrangements into an interrupted or declined phase referring to Cosmetic are linked to: politics relation, transitional leadership, independent performance and the anchored companies. In case of the plastic it refers to: conceptual project, governance, transitional leadership and a confident business relation. Furthermore, this study aims to the fact that there is a necessity of considering the theory of the Clusters life cycle evolution in a perspective of a dynamic process with several multiple ways that might be experienced throughout the Clusters life cycle, avoiding a reduced view in a linear life cycle with its beginning, middle and ending.

Submitted by JÚLIO HEBER SILVA (julioheber@yahoo.com.br) on 2017-03-28T18:40:30Z No. of bitstreams: 2 Dissertação - Ana Paula Zenóbia Balduino - 2016.pdf: 1728908 bytes, checksum: 9be0fded92c1a4fb663d04300deb1993 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Luciana Ferreira (lucgeral@gmail.com) on 2017-03-31T10:36:32Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 2 Dissertação - Ana Paula Zenóbia Balduino - 2016.pdf: 1728908 bytes, checksum: 9be0fded92c1a4fb663d04300deb1993 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-03-31T10:36:32Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 Dissertação - Ana Paula Zenóbia Balduino - 2016.pdf: 1728908 bytes, checksum: 9be0fded92c1a4fb663d04300deb1993 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-05-06 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / In the present study aimed to analyze samples of cosmetic clays (white, red and green) used in facial treatments with regard to chemical composition, assessing the existence of potentially toxic metals to health, regulated by RDC Resolution nº 48 of ANVISA and their fluorescence concentrations of X-ray energy dispersive (EDXRF). For structural analysis, samples were characterized by diffraction techniques X-ray (XRD) and conventional, high-resolution laser spectroscopy in the infrared Fourier transform spectroscopy (FTIR), for determining the clay forming and impurities for each sample. In addition, we evaluated the bioavailability of metals in samples by the method proposed by Rodriguez and Diaz the release test metals by acid treatment. The EDXRF analysis for the analyzed clays showed the presence of 5 (Ba, Cr, Pb, Nd and Zr) metals regulated by ANVISA Resolution RDC nº 48 as prohibited. XRD analysis of the fresh samples showed the presence of clays of the kaolinite, illite, halloysite, dickite, montmorillonite and mica muscovite the presence of mineral impurities. In assessing the availability of harmful metals present in samples by treating this acid pointed by XRD technique the progressive decline and the loss of crystallinity of the peaks relating to mineral impurities. In FTIR analysis for fresh samples stands out the band in the region 1382 cm-1 present as an impurity and its removal after acid treatment. It follows therefore that these clays have some undesirable metals in its composition, and to carry out an acid attack these species become available and may cause problems to health, requiring more rigorous quality control because it is a product of continuous use. / No presente estudo objetivou-se analisar amostras de argilas cosméticas (branca, vermelha e verde) usadas em tratamentos faciais com relação à composição química, avaliando a existência de metais potencialmente tóxicos para a saúde, regulados pela resolução RDC nº 48 da ANVISA e suas respectivas concentrações por fluorescência de raios-X com energia dispersiva (EDXRF). Para a análise estrutural, as amostras foram caracterizadas pelas técnicas de difração de raios-X (DRX) convencional e de alta resolução e espectroscopia de absorção na região do infravermelho com transformada de Fourier (FTIR), para a determinação dos argilominerais formadores e impurezas presentes para cada amostra. Além disso, avaliou-se a biodisponibilidade dos metais nas amostras pelo método proposto por Rodriguez e Diaz, pelo teste de liberação de metais por tratamento ácido. A análise de EDXRF para as argilas analisadas apontaram a presença de 5 (Ba, Cr, Pb, Nd e Zr) metais regulados pela resolução ANVISA RDC nº 48 como proibidos. A análise de DRX para as amostras in natura das argilas apontaram a presença dos argilominerais caulinita, ilita, haloisita, diquita, montmorilonita e mica muscovita e a presença de impurezas minerais. Ao avaliar a disponibilidade dos metais nocivos presentes nas amostras pelo tratamento ácido este apontou pela técnica de DRX a diminuição progressiva e a perca da cristalinidade dos picos referentes às impurezas minerais. Na análise de FTIR para as amostras in natura destaca-se a banda na região de 1382 cm-1 presente na forma de impureza, e sua remoção após tratamento ácido. Conclui-se, portanto que estas argilas possuem alguns metais indesejáveis em sua composição, e ao realizar um ataque ácido estas espécies se tornam disponíveis, podendo ocasionar problemas a saúde, sendo necessário um maior rigor no controle de qualidade por se tratar de um produto de uso contínuo.

Para a avaliação do potencial irritante de substâncias aplicadas topicamente tem-se utilizado metodologias que baseiam nos estudos de Draize, onde preconiza-se o uso de animais. Devido à forte oposição a estes testes, intensa tem sido a busca por métodos alternativos visando diminuir ou eliminar a utilização de animais. Este estudo avaliou o potencial irritante de diversas substâncias através de duas metodologias: o teste in vivo , empregando metodologia oficial do Food and Drug Administration (FDA), onde utiliza-se coelhos e o teste de citotoxicidade in vitro - método de difusão em camada de agar sobreposta à monocamada de células - empregando as linhagens celulares He La e NCTC L 929 e o corante vital vermelho neutro. As amostras de produto acabado abrangeram colírios, testados sem diluição e xampus de uso adulto e infantil testados puros e diluídos a 25%, 5%, 1% e 0,1%. As matérias-primas compreenderam tensoativos aniônicos, não-iônicos e anfóteros testados após diluição. O material de acondicionamento foi representado por frascos de polietileno para colírios, testados através dos seus extratos em solução de NaCI 0,9%. Os resultados obtidos com as amostras de colírios e frascos de acondicionamento foram negativos quanto à irritação ocular em coelhos e comprovaram ausência de citotoxicidade nas duas linhagens celulares. As amostras de xampus apresentaram boa correlação dos resultados quando testadas sem diluição ou diluídas a 1,0% e 0,1 %. Foi calculada a correlação de Spearman entre os dados obtidos com as duas linhagens celulares sendo o valor do coeficiente r = 0,950 indicando uma correlação direta entre os resultados obtidos com as duas células. Os resultados demonstram a possibilidade de desenvolvimento de metodologias alternativas, sujeitas à validação, que resultem em procedimentos sensíveis, reprodutíveis, não sujeitos a critérios subjetivos de interpretação, visando assim, num primeiro estágio diminuir o uso de animais pelo emprego destas metodologias em avalições prévias do potencial irritante de substâncias químicas. / To evaluate the irritability potential of toppically laid on substances, some methodologies based on Draize\'s study where the use of animals is demanded, have been used. Due to the strong opposition of society and scientific comunity, the search for alternative methods having in view the reduction or even the elimination of animals have been intense, either through the use of volunteers or of in vitro methodologies. The present study has evaluated the irritability of several substances including finished products, raw materials and packagíng materials through two methodologies: the in vivo test which makes use of official methodology from Food and Drug Administration (FDA), where rabbits are employed and the citotoxicity in vitro test - method of diffusion in agar layer added to the monolayer of cells - using He La and NCTC L 929 cells lines and neutral red. The samples of the finished products embraced eye drops, tested without dilution, and shampoos for adults and children use both concentrated and diluted to 25%, 5%, 1% and 0.1 %. Raw materiais included anionis, non-anionic and amphoteric surfactants tested after dilution. The packaging material, represented by eye drops polyethylene bottles, was tested through its extracts in a NaCI 0,9% solution. The results obtained with the samples of eye drops and packaging materials were negative as for ocular irritation in rabbits and confirmed the absence of cytotoxicity in both cells lines. The samples of shampoos presented good correlation of results when tested without dilution or diluted to 1% and 0.1 %. It has been calculated Spearman correlation considering dates obtained with two cells lines, with value of coefficient r = 0,950 showing a direct correlation between results obtained with two cells. The results obtained with this study are likely to lead to sensitive and reproductive procedures, which won\'t arise subjective criteria of interpretation. Thus, the elimination of the use of animals will be possible at a first stage of previous evalution, and once a posterior validation of this methodology is done, the rational use of a smaller number of animais will be a reality.

INTRODUÇÃO: Alterações funcionais e estéticas da parede abdominal, tais como flacidez de pele, lipodistrofia e diástase dos músculos retos abdominais, podem contribuir para a diminuição da autoestima e bem-estar do paciente. A lipoaspiração da parede abdominal durante a abdominoplastia com descolamento amplo tem sido contraindicada devido ao aumento do risco de complicações. A lipoabdominoplastia realiza apenas o descolamento seletivo do retalho ao longo das bordas mediais dos músculos retos abdominais, preservando os vasos perfurantes abdominais, o que permite a realização, com maior segurança, da lipoaspiração concomitantemente com o tempo cirúrgico da abdominoplastia. O objetivo do presente estudo foi avaliar o resultado estético da lipoabdominoplastia em pacientes com sobrepeso - Índice de Massa Corporal (IMC entre 25 e 29.9) quando comparadas com pacientes de peso normal (IMC entre 18,5 e 24,9). M?TODO: Foi realizada uma análise comparativa de resultados estéticos após a lipoabdominoplastia em dois grupos de 30 pacientes, um com IMC entre 25 e 29,9 e outro, de controle, com IMC entre 18,5 e 24,9, operadas entre 2000-2009. Para a avaliação dos resultados estéticos, foi utilizada a escala com parâmetros objetivos, desenvolvida pela Disciplina de Cirurgia Plástica da FMUSP, empregada por sete avaliadores independentes - três médicos, três não-médicos e o próprio cirurgião, no pré e pós-operatório. A escala avalia cinco aspectos em fotografia, volume do abdome, contorno lateral, excesso de pele ou flacidez, aspecto do umbigo e estética da cicatriz na parede abdominal. Os dados comparativos foram submetidos a análise estatística, com valor de significância \"p\" de 0,05. RESULTADOS: Tanto no grupo total (n=60) quanto em cada grupo isoladamente, a média das notas do pós-operatório foi significativamente maior que a média das notas do pré, para todos os avaliadores. Da mesma forma, a média das notas do Grupo II (de controle) sempre foi significativamente maior que a do Grupo I (de sobrepeso), tanto no pré como no pós-operatório, para todos os avaliadores, embora a média do ganho obtido - ou a diferença entre as notas do pós e do pré-operatório, que mede a melhora no resultado estético, tenha sido maior no Grupo I (de sobrepeso). Tanto no pré como no pós- operatório, a média das notas dos avaliadores não-médicos foi significativamente maior que a média das notas dos médicos. No pós-operatório, a média da nota na avaliação do cirurgião foi significativamente maior que a média dos avaliadores médicos e que a dos avaliadores não- médicos. O Índice de Correção Intraclasses (ICC) foi elevado e significativo, indicando alto grau de confiabilidade interna entre os profissionais. CONCLUSÃO: Houve diferença significativa na avaliação estética dos resultados da cirurgia do abdome, quando comparados os dois grupos com diferente IMC: o grupo de controle (IMC entre 18,5 e 24,9) apresentou resultado superior na média das notas, tanto no pré como no pós-operatório, para todos os avaliadores. Embora ambos os grupos tenham apresentado significativa melhora na avaliação estética após a lipoabdominoplastia, o ganho de melhora entre o pós e o pré-operatório foi maior no Grupo com IMC entre 25 e 29,9 / BACKGROUND: Aesthetic and functional deformities of the abdominal wall, as skin flaccidity, lipodystrophy and diastasis of rectus abdominis muscles may contribute to decreased self-esteem and well-being of the patient. Liposuction of the abdominal wall in traditional abdominoplasty (wide undermining) has been criticized for increasing the risk of complications. The lipoabdominoplasty performs a selective undermining of the flap along the medial borders of the rectus abdominis muscles, preserving the abdominal perforating vessels, thus allows liposuction during the same procedure of abdominoplasty with greater safety. The aim of this study was to evaluate the aesthetic results of lipoabdominoplasty in overweight patients (Body Mass Index - BMI 25-29.9) as compared to patients with normal weight (BMI between 18.5 and 24.9), operated by the same technique. METHODS: A comparative and retrospective analysis of late follow up results after lipoabdominoplasty between two groups of 30 patients, one with BMI between 25 and 29.9 and a control group with BMI between 18,5 and 24.9, operated from 2000 to 2009. To evaluate the aesthetic results was used a scale with objective parameters developed by the Plastic Surgery Department of São Paulo University, held by seven independent evaluators - three doctors, three no doctors and the surgeon. Five items in photography were evaluated - the abdominal volume, the lateral contour, excess of skin flaccidity, the appearance of the navel and quality of scar in the abdominal wall, both in pre and postoperative period. The data was submitted to statistical analysis. RESULTS: Both in the whole study population (n = 60) as in each group separately, the average score of the postoperative period was significantly higher than the pre, for all evaluators. Likewise, the average score of Group II (control) was always significantly higher than that of Group I (overweight), pre and postoperatively for all evaluators, although the mean difference between the post and pre-operative scores, which measures the improvement in the aesthetic result, was higher in Group I (overweight). Postoperatively, the average score, when assessed by the plastic surgeon was significantly higher than when assessed by other doctor and no doctor evaluators. The average score by non-medical evaluators was significantly higher than the average pointed out by doctors, both in the pre and postoperative period. The Intra Class Correction was high and significant, indicating a high degree of internal reliability between professionals. CONCLUSION: A significant difference was noted in the aesthetic evaluation of the abdomen when compared the two groups with different BMI: the control group (BMI between 18,5 and 24,9) presented superior results in grades in both the pre and post results for all evaluators. Both groups showed significant improvement in aesthetic evaluation after lipoabdominoplasty, but the gain between the pre and the postoperative was higher in the group with BMI between 25 and 29.9

O avanço de estudos na área do comportamento do consumidor nas últimas duas décadas, com proposições e testes de modelos sobre confiança, satisfação, lealdade, risco, valor percebido, entre outros, bem como estudos conceituais destes e outros construtos, vem desafiando a comunidade acadêmica a realizar pesquisas inovadoras, que tragam um diferencial para a teoria de marketing. Neste sentido, este trabalho baseia-se no entendimento e desenvolvimento do construto Esperança, importante na compreensão do comportamento do consumidor e, objeto de poucos e recentes trabalhos na área de marketing. Foi escolhido para o estudo, o consumidor de cirurgia plástica estética, por causa da presença do sentimento de esperança neste processo de compra, bem como pelo risco envolvido neste tipo de consumo, enriquecendo a análise do modelo. Assim, o foco desta tese foi elaborar e testar as influências do construto Esperança num modelo teórico aplicado ao comportamento do consumidor de cirurgia plástica estética no Brasil, principalmente na relação com os construtos Satisfação do Cliente, Confiança no Médico, Expectativas, Ansiedade e Risco Percebido. São apresentadas 12 hipóteses de pesquisa, integradas a um modelo teórico, relacionando a Esperança e outros construtos que impactariam na satisfação. Foi realizada uma revisão bibliográfica nas áreas pertinentes, que auxiliassem o entendimento dos construtos, de modo a se obter a descrição necessária ao processo de desenvolvimento do modelo teórico proposto, que foi testado pela Modelagem de Equações Estruturais (SEM). O estudo foi realizado em duas fases de pesquisa, sendo uma qualitativa e a segunda quantitativa. Na primeira, foram realizados dois grupos focais com consumidoras de cirurgia plástica estética, e entrevistas em profundidade com especialistas; e, na segunda, um websurvey, obtendo-se uma amostra total de 384 pessoas, das quais 207 que já haviam realizado uma cirurgia plástica estética, e, 170 das que têm a intenção de fazer. Um modelo alternativo ainda foi testado para estas amostras, a partir das proposições levantadas nos grupos focais. Os resultados obtidos demonstram que a Esperança desponta como importante construto nos modelos testados, com a confirmação de diversas hipóteses e proposições, denotando a necessidade de incluí-la em modelos futuros, pela proporção elevada de explicação que exerceria nos demais construtos, principalmente a Satisfação. Destaca-se que os modelos desta tese, apesar de complexos, apresentaram medidas adequadas, que nos deixam margem para afirmar que houve uma contribuição para a área de marketing. Limitações e futuras pesquisas são ainda consideradas ao final da tese. / In the last two decades the Consumer Behavior area has progressed through propositions and testing Models such as Trust, Satisfaction, Loyalty, Risk, Perceived Value, among others, as conceptual studies of these and other constructs have been challenging the Academic community to carry out innovative research and bring a differential to the theory of Marketing. Therefore, the present research focus on the understanding and development of the construct Hope, an important aspect for better understating the consumer behaviors and a subject fairly explored by the literature. Cosmetic Surgery consumers were chosen for this study as the presence of the feeling Hope in the decision making process, as well as perceived risk, can enrich the Models. The focus of this Thesis was to extend and test the influence of the construct Hope in a theoretical Model applied on consumers of aesthetic plastic surgery in Brazil, mainly in relation to the constructs of Customer Satisfaction, Trust (in doctor), Expectations, Anxiety and Perceived Risk. Hence 12 hypotheses were proposed and united in a theoretical Model which the construct Hope was related to constructs that tends to impact on consumers satisfaction. A literature review in the relevant fields was conducted aiming to provide a better understanding of the constructs adopted in the Model proposed as way to obtain the necessary description of the development process, which was tested by Structural Equation Modeling (SEM). Two phase data collection were conducted for this research adopting qualitative methods at the first stage and quantitative at the second. At first two focus groups with female cosmetic surgery consumers followed by in-depth interviews with experts accomplished the qualitative phase. For the quantitative stage a web survey was applied and obtained a total sample of 384 females, including 207 consumers who had made aesthetics plastic surgery and 170 consumes with the intentions to do it. Based on the propositions that appeared in the focus groups an extended Model was tested using the sample described above. The result shows that Hope emerges as an important construct in the Model tested, with a confirmation of different hypotheses and propositions emphasizing the need to include the construct Hope in future Models due to the high proportion of explanation this construct would play with the others, especially with the construct Satisfaction. Its important to observe that the Models applied in this Thesis, despite their complexity, were able to present appropriate measurements allowing saying that this research has made a contribution to the field of Marketing. Limitations and future research were also considered at the end of this Thesis.

A la recherche d’innovations, l’industrie cosmétique est constamment en quête de nouvelles matières premières. Les ingrédients naturels sont particulièrement en vogue. Ces travaux de thèse ont poursuivis trois objectifs. Tout d’abord, une étude a permis d’évaluer l’impact des formulations cosmétiques sur les développements microbiens. En second lieu, le développement d’un ingrédient antimicrobien naturel pour les cosmétiques a été engagé dans le cadre d’un projet collaboratif : Natubaval. Un extrait végétal a tout particulièrement été étudié. Il a été optimisé pour une incorporation en formulation simplifiée. L’activité antimicrobienne de l’extrait optimisé a été validée grâce au challenge test. Ayant noté que l’un des métabolites contenus dans l’extrait antimicrobien participant fortement à l’activité pouvait présenter une instabilité dans certaines circonstances. De plus, les conservateurs naturels sont connus pour présenter une activité moins durable que ceux issus de la synthèse. Nous avons donc développé un système d’encapsulation et vectorisation d’actifs naturels. Les extraits végétaux étant des mélanges très complexes, il nous à paru judicieux, dans un premier temps, de développer le modèle d’encapsulation à partir de deux analytes modèles : la rutine et la naringénine. Un système vésiculaire a été développé et optimisé. Des mesures granulométriques, des rendements d’encapsulation et d’adsorption, une cinétique de fuite, un test d’activité biologique et des essais d’incorporations en formulations cosmétiques ont été réalisés pour valider le modèle. Une fois développé, Celui-ci a été appliqué avec succès à l’extrait végétal antimicrobien. / Looking for innovation, cosmetic industry used even more new materials. Natural products are specially used. Our study evaluated the impact of cosmetic formulations on microbial developments. Then, a natural antimicrobial ingredient for cosmetics was developed. One vegetal extract was particulary studied. It was optimized for an easy introduction in cosmetic products. Antimicrobial activity of the natural extract was confirmed with challenge test. As some metabolites of the interesting extract could be instable in specific conditions and as natural preservatives are often less actives than the synthetics ones, an encapsulated system was developed. Vegetal extracts are complex mix of differents molecules. that is why, the encapsulated system was first developed with the standards: rutin and naringenin. A multilamellar vesicles system was developed and optimized. Particles sizes, encapsulation and adsorption yields, leak kinetik, biological test of activity and cosmetic incorporation were done to validate the model. Finally, the encapsulated system was applied with success for the encapsulation of the natural extract.

This thesis maps out the roles of cosmetic use in Renaissance Italy from the period c.1450-1540, using books containing cosmetic recipes as the primary source material. Their content, dissemination, and use is explored as a means of creating a new understanding of a practice central to daily life and integral to ongoing arguments about the body. Recent scholarship has seen a rise in interest in books of recipes and secrets in the Renaissance and Early Modern periods, but there has yet to be a full-length study exploring cosmetic recipes as a significant source of information, leaving a considerable gap in the understanding of how ‘high’ cultural discussions of beauty ideals related to popular culture and everyday practice. This thesis aims to fill that gap. Focusing on the formative period of 1450-1540, when both the written and artistic interests in cosmetics were developing, this thesis draws together a large body of previously unpublished primary source material from printed and manuscript recipe books relating to the making and use of cosmetics, and is the first in-depth analysis of the material and visual culture of Italian cosmetic practice during this period. A major component of this project was to establish what practices, materials and products constituted Renaissance cosmetic practice. The way in which recipes for beautification are identified within recipe books is carefully considered, and recipe ingredients and methods are examined, with comparisons made to the representation of cosmetics in non-recipe sources (written and visual). The goal was to describe cosmetics as they were defined in Renaissance terms, so recipe ingredients have been considered largely in context of Renaissance medicine rather than modern pharmacy, in contrast to most extant studies on the topic. A further major aim of this study was to create a detailed reconstruction of the social values attached to cosmetic use during the Renaissance period. This has been investigated both through an examination of how cosmetics are represented in written and visual sources, and also through a critical investigation of the people involved in the making and use of cosmetics and cosmetic recipe collections. Throughout, a range of material sources have been examined in consideration with each other—recipe books, behavioural advice, moral arguments, printed and painted image, inventories, and household objects such as mirrors and combs—demonstrating that cosmetics had a wide ranging and significant presence in daily Renaissance life. The first chapter examines the moral discourses directed at cosmetic use, establishing the place of these discourses within broader concerns about the control of women’s behaviour. Chapter 2 begins to place the ideals of beauty in a social context, examining how cosmetics are represented in recipe books, and discussing what activities and practices Renaissance ‘cosmetics’ consisted of, with particular attention given to their relationship with medicinal recipes. Chapters 3 and 4 investigate the people who made and used cosmetic recipes, broadly addressing themes of accessibility, and the connections between a beautified appearance and social status. The authors of recipe books, the books’ cost, audience literacy, markets for medicine, and cost and effectiveness of cosmetic recipes are all taken into account to illustrate a lively economy surrounding the use of makeup. Finally, Chapters 5 and 6 address cultural representations of cosmetic use in art and literature, re-examining key examples within the context of the material culture of cosmetics to demonstrate the significance of makeup use in formulations of Renaissance femininity.

The topical application of many substances, including drugs, enzymes, moisturizers and fragrances, contributes largely to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. These components are often volatile in nature and dissipate in a matter of hours. When considering the different types of slow release systems, an overwhelming variety of these systems is available. Each one of the systems is unique in a way, and is designed to perform a particular function, whether it facilitates the controlled release of an active into the body via the skin surface (transdermal delivery) or whether it reduces the rate of loss of an active from the skin surface to the surrounding environment. For the purpose of this study, a previously existing fixative formulation which is believed to reduce the rate of loss of an active component to the environment, through film formation on the skin surface, was investigated. Alternative ingredients or components were incorporated together with the original fixative formulation ingredients into an experimental design which investigates the effect of each group of the components present. 18 formulations with various concentrations of the components within the groups and specified upper and lower limits for each component were formulated. The fixative properties of the formulations were analysed through the incorporation of a fixed amount of a simple fragrance molecule, 4- methoxybenzaldehyde, into each formulation and evaporation studies were conducted in an environmental room at 28±1° C over a period of 5 hours followed by gas chromatography analysis and finally data analyses using statistical methods. The most efficient fixative formulation was established using regression analysis. The fragrance compound in this formulation was found to evaporate at a rate of 0.47 g/L per hour. The least efficient fixative formulation lead to the loss of 0.78 g/L of the fragrance component per hour. From the calculated fragrance concentrations, the rate constant for each individual fixative formulation could be calculated and response surface 8 modelling by backward regression was used in order to determine how each component contributes to the rate of loss of the fragrance compound. Since the sum of the original ingredient and its alternative was constant, each of the original ingredients was coupled directly to its alternative and no conclusion could be made about the contribution of individual components. By increasing the concentration of Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) 100K and its alternative HPC 140K, while keeping the effects of the other components constant, a decrease in the rate of fragrance loss was observed. The same conclusion could be made when increasing the concentrations of PEG-12 Dimethicone and its alternative cetyl dimethicone (decreases the evaporation rate). An interaction took place between HPC 100K and PEG-12 dimethicone and their alternatives. The negative effect was, however, not as strong as the combined positive effect on the rate of fragrance loss of the individual components HPC and PEG-12 dimethicone. Evidence suggested that the removal of the components polyvinylpyrrolidone and its alternative, polyurethane-32 (Baycusan® C1003), would improve the effectiveness of the fixative formulation in terms of its slow release properties. A confirmation experiment established that the exclusion of these components from the fixative formulation does improve the “slow release” properties thereof. A larger, more intricate design is required to investigate the effect of each one of the individual components and where the sum of the components (original and its alternative) is not constant.

The main aim of the diploma thesis is a detailed desciption of the cosmetic industry in the Czech republic. Development of market shares of the most significant local cosmetic brands in sales value and sales volume during time period from November 2006 to December 2008 is used as a key source of data. The latter target is a specification of adidas' brand positioning and its marketing strategy in comparision with competition, consumers'preferences and purchase habits.