Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:28:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2006-01-31Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:57:41Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 souza_pm_me_bauru.pdf: 907859 bytes, checksum: b98682457254c5034fde8ac03ff92b52 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A presente pesquisa verifica a eficiência da modelagem tridimensional, moulage, como instrumento de otimização do processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda/vestuário. Para tanto, enfoca as etapas de criação e materialização nas quais a referida técnica encontra-se inserida, onde constata a dicotomia entre as áreas de criação e modelagem. Aborda as qualidades técnicas, construtivas, ergonômicas e estéticas envolvidas no projeto da modelagem do produto, enfatizando os aspectos de conforto, caimento e inovação formal. De abordagem qualitativa, tem seus dados coletados por meio de observações sistemáticas, no âmbito acadêmico, numa variedade de situações-problemas, em momentos diversos, com variadas fontes de informação - cenários criados para reproduzir, considerando as devidas proporções e especificidades - situações industriais análogas. Estabelece as seguintes linhas guias de observação: criar e materializar; materializar a criação do outro; a criação constitui-se na própria materialização. Indicadores previstos na estruturação da pesquisa - adequação dimensional, vestibilidade, inovação formal, tempo, retrabalho, consumo de matéria-prima, soluções de montagem - conduzem aos resultados, numa comparação dos dados obtidos quando a técnica da modelagem tridimensional encontra-se ou não inserida no processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda. É constatada a eficiência da técnica no processo. / The purpose of this research is to verify the efficiency of the three-dimensional modeling, draping, as a way to achieve a better development of the fashion/clothing products. For that, it focus the creation and the materialization steps, in which the draping technique is found, where is found a dichotomy between the creation and the modeling areas. It also approaches the technical, constructive, ergonomic and esthetic qualities involved on the modeling project, emphasizing the comfort, adjustment and innovation of the shape. This qualitative research got the data collection by methodological academic observation, with a variety of problem situations, in different moments with distinctive information sources - created reproduction scenes, considering the propositions and specialties - such as industrial situations. It establishes the following observation guide: to create and materialize; to materialize the other s creation; the creation constitutes in the materialization itself. The indicators used in this research are the dimensional fitness, adjustment, innovation of the shape, time, rework, material raw, assembling solutions. They conduct to the findings, comparing obtained data when the three-dimensional modeling is found in development of the fashion/clothing products and it proves the efficiency of the technique in the process.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:28:33Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2003-10-13Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T19:16:35Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 montemezzo_mcfs_me_bauru.pdf: 892244 bytes, checksum: 9c35a1ed16c474ae77ec4d2b4696cc3b (MD5) / Para identificar uma estruturação adequada ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda/vestuário no âmbito acadêmico, a presente pesquisa buscou fundamentos nas bases teóricas das metodologias de projeto do design, abordando a organização do processo criativo sob os parâmetros do pensamento projetual. Realizou um estudo qualitativo em ambiente acadêmico, com o propósito de constatar a relevância dos princípios projetuais de design para a estruturação do processo de criação em moda. Identificou-se que, após o contato com tais princípios, os estudantes demonstraram mudanças significativas na organização do pensamento sobre o processo de elaboração de produtos. Integrou os resultados obtidos na pesquisa do ambiente acadêmico às análises construídas na pesquisa bibliográfica, para a estruturação de uma proposta de diretrizes metodológicas para o processo projetual de design de moda na academia / To identify the correct organization to the development process of fashion products in the academic field, this research established foundation in the theoretical basis of design methodologies, broaching the organization of the creative process under the concepts of the project thoughts. A qualitative study was accomplished in the academic field on purpose to check the importance of the design principles to the organization of the creation process in fashion. It was noticed that after the contact with such principles, students demonstrated relevant changes in the thoughts organization about the creation process of products. The results obtained in the academic field research was integrated to the analysis built in the bibliographic research, in way to organize an offer of methodological directives to the fashion design in academy

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:24:10Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2011-01-20Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T18:20:20Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 pereira_lm_me_bauru.pdf: 3183611 bytes, checksum: a110fa6df8de7af1a6b5b5422b391c98 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Dentre as tendências atuais para as roupas infantis encontra-se o vestuário que pode contribuir para o desenvolvimento e aprendizado das crianças por meio da interação com suas roupas. Para que a interação criança/roupa ocorra, esse vestuário deve se apropriar dos conhecimentos do design, que auxiliam na sua construção. Desta forma, esse estudo busca investigar os princípios do design que podem ser adotados para a produção de roupas que podem auxiliar no desenvolvimento das crianças, mostrando como noções de educação podem ser incorporadas ao trajes, estudando as relações e interações entre o design, moda e a educação. O estudo aborda este vestuário sob a perspectiva do design, para assim levantar informações que possam contribuir com a criação das peças. Para tanto, foi elaborado um referencial teórico que procurou mostrar o universo infantil, a comunicação, vestuáriom e design. De acordo com os procedimentos metodológicos adotados para o trabalho, realizou-se um estudo de caso de dez escolas particulares da cidade de Bauru-sp, a fim de obter dados referentes a vivencia com crianças, sobre as preferências, atitudes e formas de raciocínio do mundo infantil. / Among the current trends for children1s clothing that may contribute to the development and children's learning through interaction with their clothes. For child interaction/clothes from occurring, this dress is appropriate the knowledge of design, which assist in its construction. Thus, this study seeks to investigate design principles that can be adopted for production of clothing thatcan assist in the develpment of children, showing how notions of education can be incoporated into costumes, studying the relationships and interactions between design, fashion and education. The study addresses this garment from the perspective of design, so as to provide insights that could contribute to the creation of the pieces. To that end, we developed a theoretical framework that sought to show the infant universe, communication, clothing and design. According to the methodological procedures for the work, there was a case study in ten private schools in Bauru-sp in order to obtain data on experiences with children about their preferences, attitudes and ways of reasoning child's world.

Orientador: Ivan De Domenico Valarelli / Banca: João Candido Fernandes / Banca: Virginia Kistmann / Para identificar uma estruturação adequada ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda/vestuário no âmbito acadêmico, a presente pesquisa buscou fundamentos nas bases teóricas das metodologias de projeto do design, abordando a organização do processo criativo sob os parâmetros do pensamento projetual. Realizou um estudo qualitativo em ambiente acadêmico, com o propósito de constatar a relevância dos princípios projetuais de design para a estruturação do processo de criação em moda. Identificou-se que, após o contato com tais princípios, os estudantes demonstraram mudanças significativas na organização do pensamento sobre o processo de elaboração de produtos. Integrou os resultados obtidos na pesquisa do ambiente acadêmico às análises construídas na pesquisa bibliográfica, para a estruturação de uma proposta de diretrizes metodológicas para o processo projetual de design de moda na academia / To identify the correct organization to the development process of fashion products in the academic field, this research established foundation in the theoretical basis of design methodologies, broaching the organization of the creative process under the concepts of the project thoughts. A qualitative study was accomplished in the academic field on purpose to check the importance of the design principles to the organization of the creation process in fashion. It was noticed that after the contact with such principles, students demonstrated relevant changes in the thoughts organization about the creation process of products. The results obtained in the academic field research was integrated to the analysis built in the bibliographic research, in way to organize an offer of methodological directives to the fashion design in academy / Mestre

A indústria têxtil brasileira emprega diferentes tipos e processos de design de moda. Nesse contexto, o objetivo deste trabalho é demonstrar e analisar alguns dos seus principais tipos e processos. Desse modo, pretende-se esclarecer como esse design traz benefícios ao desenvolvimento do produto de moda; benefício que redunda num melhor aproveitamento dos aspectos financeiros e produtivos da indústria. Pretende-se ainda, apontar o uso e as aplicabilidades desses desenhos, como ferramentas que aprimoram o processo criativo e sua comunicação, ao exibir formas e materiais, combinações de cores, estampas e peças prontas, com o intuito de diminuir o tempo de criação, contribuir na finalização e comercialização do produto de moda. Para tanto, buscou-se pesquisar a literatura sobre o assunto com fundamentação teórica para a realização de uma pesquisa de campo / The Brazilian textile industry employs different types and fashion design processes. In this context, the aim of this study is to demonstrate and analyze some of the main types and processes. Thus, it is intended to clarify how this design is beneficial to the development of fashion products; benefit which results in better utilization of financial aspects and productive industry. It is also intended, to point the use and applicability of these drawings as tools that enhance the creative process and its communication, to display forms and materials, combinations of colors, patterns and finished parts, in order to decrease the time of creation, contribute to the completion and sale of the fashion product. To this end, we sought to investigate the literature on the subject with theoretical foundation for conducting a field survey

O presente trabalho aborda análises históricas das metodologias utilizadas para o ensino da modelagem do vestuário e propõe o desenvolvimento de diretrizes para este ensino. Para tanto, realiza um levantamento histórico a respeito das diversas técnicas e métodos utilizados desde a década de 1960, fazendo uma comparação entre método e período sociocultural, visando à busca de técnicas que facilitem o processo de aprendizado em discussão. A análise das principais técnicas de modelagem utilizadas ao longo do tempo, das organizações curriculares dos principais cursos de graduação de Moda, e das pesquisas com profissionais educadores da área, proporcionarão uma ampla visão do que pode ser utilizado para otimizar o processo de aprendizado e o que deve ser descartado, por não favorecer uma formação mais rápida e de melhor qualidade. Após o estudo em questão, este projeto propõe um conjunto de diretrizes que favoreça a transformação do aluno em um profissional qualificado para atuar na área de modelagem do vestuário. / This research discusses historical analysis of methodologies for pattern making teaching and proposes the development of guidelines for teaching. The study presents a historical survey about the various techniques and methods used since the 1960s, making a balance between method and socio-cultural period in order to search for techniques to facilitate the learning process under discussion. The analysis of the main pattern making techniques used over time, the curricula of leading Fashion Graduation programs, and the research with professional educators, will provide a broad overview of what can be used to optimize the learning process and what should be discarded for not favoring a faster and better training. After the study in question, this project proposes a set of guidelines that encourage the transformation of the student in a qualified professional to act in Pattern making clothing.

Orientador: Ernesto Giovanni Boccara / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Artes / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-25T21:36:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Moretti_NancydePalma_D.pdf: 12909734 bytes, checksum: 86c949e921803ec5396493d43c44ee34 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / Resumo: Essa tese tem como proposição a hipótese da reconstrução do corpo humano através do desenho e ilustração de moda mediado por signos. Esta visibilidade do corpo vestido no desenho para a moda é também de natureza indicial, por sugerir um corpo humano que não existe como representação fiel, por não manter sua natureza anatômica efetiva. A esta fusão constituída na representação do corpo vestido denominaremos como sendo um corpo antípoda, aquele que tem sua existência na mente do estilista ou designer de moda durante o processo criativo de sua gestação imaginativa / Abstract: This thesis is to propose the hypothesis of reconstruction of the human body through drawing and fashion illustration mediated by signs. This visibility clothed body in the drawing for fashion is also indexical nature, suggest a human body which does not exist as a faithful representation, for not keeping their actual anatomical nature. The merger constituted in this representation of the body as a dress denominate antipode body, one that has its existence in the mind of the designer or fashion designer during the creative process of his imaginative pregnancy / Doutorado / Artes Visuais / Doutora em Artes Visuais

M.Tech. (Fashion) / Advanced studies in fashion design in South Africa have attracted little interest. Master’s studies are limited and doctoral studies are almost non-existent. This situation has resulted in the academic vulnerability of the discipline as a creative and commercial practice. In order to promote and expand research activities and advanced studies within fashion design at the University of Johannesburg, this study contends that it is necessary to develop a systematic understanding of the theoretical and practicing manifestations of fashion design in relation to the nature and process of design and fashion systems. In order to develop a deeper understanding of the interconnection between theory and practice, this study adopts a thematic style and a qualitative methodological approach to the examination of fashion design from the perspectives of history, theory and practice. The study synthesises key ideas from these areas and applies relevant frameworks to review the South African fashion system and to determine the theoretical orientation of selected advanced studies and research activities pursued over the last decade. The study proposes that considerations for the theoretical grounding of advanced studies in fashion design that could be taken into account include the need to: encourage an approach that accommodates the broader theoretical and practical dimensions of fashion design when engaging in advanced studies and research activities; view fashion design within the constellation of specialist design practices integral to ideas of a unitary discipline which could underpin and enrich advanced studies; adopt forward-oriented theoretical foundations for research and advanced studies which would ensure greater and more meaningful connections to practice; develop third- and fourth-order design theory and thinking in advanced studies in any discipline of design; take cognisance of developments in design theory concerning the nature and context of design problems and ensure an understanding of fashion systems and the multiple positioning of fashion designers within such systems.

This collection is an investigation of how decorative techniques and non-decorative text can create a dialogue in garments, with the body as a billboard. The work is based on two different aspects. The first one deals with the question of how people look at embellishments, and the second is the message aspect. The investigation wants to find out how we can communicate with the human body as a billboard and the topic of the communication is an idea about perfection. The writer’s dyslexia experiences are used as a recurs and gives the topic a new dimension. The work explores new ways to deal with embellishments, techniques and messages. It shows that the statement T-shirt is not the only perfect garment to decorate and that garments can communicate a message in more ways than with a flat print.

This research was commissioned and funded by The Welding Institute (TWI). The Welding Institute are a global research and development facility specialising in the joining of materials for industrial applications. The purpose of this research was to develop capability in textiles joining, particularly ultrasonic and laser welding technologies, which is relatively new to TWI. The appointed researcher adopted a ‘multi-strategy’ (Cresswell 2009) approach to the research; encompassing methods that were both familiar and unfamiliar to those usually adopted by TWI employees and researchers, whom mostly come from engineering and scientific backgrounds. The research was primarily undertaken with the adoption of a ‘craft-design’ approach that uses material investigation to explore and uncover interesting leads for investigation, which was the familiar approach of the researcher coming from a background in textile design. Material studies were carried out inquisitively without the formation of a particular hypothesis and insights were discussed with industry to identify potential commercial and functional application opportunities. Following the identification of an interest in welding stretchy fabrics Speedo agreed to become the main industry partner for the research, providing materials, access to testing equipment and validation of commercial opportunities for material samples relative to their application. The main hypothesis for the research Laser melted patterns can be used to control the elastic behaviour of stretchy textiles to have a targeted and variable compressive effect on the body developed through discussion with Speedo in response to material samples produced using transmission laser welding equipment. A predominant scientific approach was adopted during the second phase of the research to quantify and control this effect: to demonstrate repeatability and test it both on fabric and the body. Methods that were unfamiliar to the researcher prior to this research such as mechanical testing and microscopic analysis were employed. Selection of either a ‘craft design’ or ‘scientific’ approach was made pragmatically in response to the research as it developed. Through a retrospective analysis of applied methods throughout the research trajectory it has been possible to define this particular ‘multi-strategy’ project as a ‘sequential exploratory’ design (Cresswell 2009), whereby periods of subjective investigation are followed by empirical testing. The main process that has been developed by this research is a decorative method of controlling the elastic behaviour of stretchy fabrics using transmission laser welding equipment for a controlled and variable compressive effect on the body. Compression fabrics are used widely within the medical, lingerie and sportswear fields to apply pressure to the body either for an aesthetic or functional advantage. In swimwear, compression fabrics are applied to streamline the silhouette and minimise drag resistance. The technique developed by this research makes a contribution to knowledge within the field of laser processing of textiles, specifically within the field of transmission laser welding, and within the field of compression apparel. In the field of transmission laser welding a new functional capability for all-over surface patterns has been demonstrated. In the field of compression apparel a new decorative method for achieving an increasingly variable compressive effect for a smoother transition between different zones of stretch has been achieved. N.B. All redacted information throughout this thesis is confidential to Speedo.