A atual pesquisa faz parte do grupo de pesquisa, cadastrado no Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico, sobre moda na cadeia têxtil, tendo como foco as questões sociais da manufatura do vestuário de moda. No sistema fast fashion, a substituição ocorre de modo rápido e instantâneo, conforme o feedback das vendas, sendo um setor influenciado pelo universo da moda, buscando atender consumidores que procuram peças que contenham estilo, moda e/ou modismo. Para seguir com este modelo de negócio, as empresas começaram a se concentrar no seu core business, que muitas vezes corresponde ao marketing, gestão de marcas, comercialização, design, pesquisas, repassando a terceiros a produção das peças de vestuário, onde é predominante a subcontratação. Com essas ramificações, abrem-se brechas para comportamento oportunistas, as quais buscam o seu lucro em função da precarização das relações de trabalho. No entanto, há um aumento de ações que visam a eliminação dessas práticas espúrias de competição, promovendo sistemas produtivos com conceitos pautados em requisitos de responsabilidade social, resultando em melhores condições de trabalho, competitividade e lucratividade. Assim, tornam-se importantes pesquisas que identifiquem empresas com esse novo desempenho estratégico em nível nacional, pois contribui tanto para a sociedade quanto ao meio acadêmico, por meio da geração de bibliografia e identificação de pontos que podem resultar em mudança corporativa. Portanto, esta pesquisa teve por objetivo estudar e analisar os impactos percebidos na cadeia de fornecimento com o selo ABVTEX em responsabilidade social pelo programa de certificação de fornecedores da Associação Brasileira do Varejo Têxtil, bem como a identificação de práticas de monitoramento pelos varejistas signatários. Em um primeiro momento realizou-se pesquisas bibliográficas que possibilitaram a fundamentação teórica, a qual auxiliou na construção dos questionários com perguntas estruturadas e semiestruturas a serem aplicados aos integrantes do estudo de múltiplos casos, e na elaboração do questionário aos fornecedores por meio da pesquisa survey. Após foi possível analisar os casos e comparar o aprendizado organizacional dos varejistas em responsabilidade social através do modelo proposto por Zadek (2004). Os resultados permitiram confirmar as proposições norteadoras, e identificar que o impacto percebido pelos fornecedores e varejistas é positivo, porém necessita de ações corretivas afim de garantir maior transparência e credibilidade. / The present research is part of the research group, registered on the National Council for Scientific and Technological Development, about trendy in the textile chain, focusing on the social issues of the manufacture of fashion apparel. In fast fashion system, the replacement is make quickly and instantly, following feedback from sales, being an industry influenced by the fashion universe, seeking for consumers which are looking for products with style, fashion and / or fad. To continue with this business model, companies began to focus on their core business, which often corresponds to marketing, brand management, commercialization, design, research, passing on to third parties the production process of garments where it is predominant subcontracting. With these ramifications in the chain, gaps are opened for opportunistic companies, which seek their profit due to the precariousness of working conditions. However, there is an increase of actions aimed at eliminating these spurious practices competition, promoting productive systems with concepts guided by social responsibility requirements, resulting in better working conditions, competitiveness and profitability. Thus, it becomes important research to identify companies with this new strategic behavior at a national level, as it contributes both to society and to academic environment, through the generation of bibliography and identification of points that can result in corporate change. The objective of this study was to study and analyze the perceived impacts of the supplier chain with the ABVTEX seal on social responsibility by the supplier certification program of the Brazilian Association of Textile Retail, as well as the identification of monitoring practices by the signatory retailers. At first, bibliographical research was carried out, which enabled the theoretical framework, which helped to build of the questionnaires, with structured questions and semi-structures to be applied to the members of the study of multiple cases, and in the elaboration of the questionnaire to the suppliers through the research survey. Afterwards, it was possible to analyze the cases and compare the organizational learning of retailers about social responsibility through the model proposed by Zadek (2004). The results allowed us to confirm the guiding propositions and to identify that the impact perceived by suppliers and retailers is positive, but requires corrective actions to guarantee greater transparency and credibility

O Brasil tem experimentado, nos últimos anos, o aumento no consumo de vestuário. A ascensão de um grande contingente de pessoas a um determinado patamar de consumo trouxe uma série de oportunidades para a indústria têxtil nacional. Não apenas o comércio varejista de roupas se sofisticou como também a cadeia têxtil-vestuário precisou se adaptar a uma nova realidade: um modelo de produção que tem como base a velocidade e o preço. Este trabalho, a partir de uma análise que engloba os processos produtivos e a venda de vestuário na capital paulista, busca explicar de que maneira o varejo legitima seu produto enquanto moda. Assim, elencamos três fatores essenciais para a análise de nosso objeto, a moda varejista: i) como nasceu e se desenvolveu o modelo de varejo existente até hoje. Nesta etapa abordamos a história de três magazines extremamente relevantes para história do varejo da cidade e mesmo do país Casa Alemã, Mappin e Mesbla - além de dois bairros fundamentais para a formação da indústria têxtil de São Paulo o Brás e o Bom Retiro. ii) o modo como a cadeia têxtil-vestuário paulistana adaptou seus meios de produção para acompanhar as mudanças do mercado. Aqui, analisamos dados quantitativos oriundos da RAIS além de material bibliográfico sobre o tema e, iii) como operam os atores envolvidos na fabricação e na venda da moda varejista. Para isso, abordamos dois representantes de funções centrais na produção de moda varejista, a produção e a distribuição: uma confecção, a R Confecções e um magazine, a saber, a Riachuelo. Nossa pesquisa é balizada pelo referencial teórico de Patrik Aspers, pesquisador suíço cujo foco de investigação é o mercado de moda varejista europeu. O instrumental apresentado por este autor nos permite compreender como se formam e se organizam os mercados de moda varejista. / In the last years, Brazil has experienced an increase in the clothing consumption. The entrance of a large number of people into a certain consumption level brought a series of opportunities to the domestic textile industry. Not only the retail clothing market became more sophisticated but the textile-clothing chain had to adapt to the new reality: a production model based on speed and price. This paper, from the analysis that encompasses productive processes and the garment retail sector in the city of São Paulo, tries to explain how retail legitimizes its product as fashion. Therefore, we listed three essential factors to the analysis of our subject, the retail fashion: i) how did the existing retail model come to life and develop. At this stage, we take the history of three department stores extremely important to the history of retail in the city and even in the country: Casa Alemã, Mappin, and Mesbla. We also included two neighborhoods that were the building blocks of the textile industry in São Paulo Brás and Bom Retiro. ii) how the textile-clothing chain of São Paulo has adapted its production means to keep up with the market changes. Here we analyze quantitative data from RAIS and the material about this subject found in the literature, iii) how the manufacturing and sales stakeholders operate in the retail fashion. We interviewed two representatives of production and distribution core functions in retail fashion: one apparel manufacturer - R Confecções and one department store, Riachuelo. This research follows Patrik Aspers theoretical referential, a Swiss researcher whose investigation focus is the European retail fashion market. The tools presented by this author allows us to understand how retail fashion markets are created and organized.

Given that the end-customer has become more demanding, the retailer has to deliver products according to the market demands, which have forced manufacturing companies to constantly search for new opportunities to reduce costs and improve efficiency. It is, therefore important to choose suppliers that are able to compete with the market demands.The market demands in the textile industry have lead to shorter product life cycles, which have caused manufacturers to deliver flexibility with high technology to compete successfully on the global market. To achieve the market requirements the underlying factor is to be aware and optimally use and control time. New technology can have a major influence in the production development, if the company choose to take benefit of the advantages, by optimal allocation of the internal resources the productivity and efficiency will increase, to accomplish a competitive advantage. One way to achieve this is by investing in a Unit Production System.In our thesis we have questioned what the main driving forces for an apparel manufacturing company is when it chooses to invest in new technology. Our previous knowledge says that manufacturing companies are forced to invest in a UPS to deliver to the market demands; therefore our sub-question investigates whether market demands impact the investment in new technology.In our theory we have concluded aspects in our study which is important for the reader to have an understanding of. We describe the textile industry from the view of Porters value chain and elaborate some concepts and their definitions, which will be used as a basis throughout our thesis. Finally we present a model of Five forces that determine industry competition made by Porter, to use as an analysis method when investigating whether an UPS may bring a competitive advantage.Our field study has been carried out in South India, where we have visited five textile factories and interviewed managers. We have questioned their decision-making judgment about implementing or choosing not to implement a UPS. Other production factors and general information about the companies have been asked to have an understanding of underlying factors. We have also had the opportunity to observe their manufacturing handling systems and seen how they have chosen to use this in an optimal way.Our previous knowledge of this subject has routed to that our research will be performed in a hermeneutics scientific approach. Our role as researchers has during the study been open-minded, subjective and committed according to a hermeneutics view. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) can be defined in many ways and there are severalstrategies present for managing, monitoring and implementing CSR and Codes of Conduct(CoC). In the thesis it will be regarded as those activities companies carry out, and maintain, tocreate a more sustainable business,- and global situation. Implementation of CSR is voluntaryfrom the purchasing companies perspective but mandatory for the suppliers. This means CSR andCoC is not legislated or in any other way strongly influenced by governments or NGO:s, but away to manage a supply chain to fulfil the company goals and public expectations.This thesis is based on three research questions, that provide an insight into managing,monitoring and implementing CSR and CoC in the developing nation Vietnam, based on theperspective of Scandinavian textile and apparel companies.The first question aim to give a background to strategies, found among in the study part takingcompanies, used to manage, monitor and implement CSR and CoC. Approaches such as, ownauditing divisions, joining initiatives, production manager inspects and so on, is gone throughwith emphasis on working methods. This is presented to give the reader a background onconcepts and an insight into common procedures. The second focus on factors influencing themanagement, monitoring and implementation of CSR and CoC in Vietnam. The three followingcategories wereselected to be presented and discussed, National culture, Middle Management andthe Future of CSR in Vietnam. As these topics were often mentioned in interviews withcompanies and organisations as influencing the CSR process. The final question is meant to tiethis thesis and the previous two questions together, how Scandinavian textile and apparelcompanies can co-operate with Vietnamese suppliers to create added value in the supply chain.This question goes back to the two previous ones seeking possibilities to use strategies forimplementation, adapted to factors influencing CSR in production in Vietnam.In chapter 5, a list of negative and positive characteristics of the situation for working with CSRin Vietnam is presented. The negative being, mild unorganized strikes, the ‘if you can hide it; itdo not exist’ attitude, middle management, foreign owned production facilities, and the one partystate. The positive aspects mentioned being, developing country, awakening public interest,workers reacting, and a positive attitude towards Scandinavians.Significant findings made in this thesis were that company size often dedict strategy andinitiatives chosen, CSR codes often directly correspond to the soft laws of the ILO conventions,middle management is a key to success and that the power of the buyer should not beunderestimated, but demands on production social standards should be stressed to cause change.Corporate Social Responsibility, CSR, kan definieras på åtskilliga sätt och det finns flerastrategier närvarande rörande management, övervakning och genomförande av CSR ochuppförandekoder. I uppsatsen kommer CSR att betraktas som de aktiviteter bolagen bedriver, styroch underhåller, för att skapa en mer hållbar verksamhet och global situation. Att dessa utförsfrivilligt, utan att vara lagstiftning eller under stark påverkan från NGOs. Utan är ettförhållningssätt för hur företag hanterar denna del av försörjningskedjan för att möta sina mål ochallmänhetens förväntningar.Uppsatsen bygger på tre frågeställningar, för att ge en inblick i management, övervakningen ochgenomförandet av företagens sociala ansvar och uppförandekoder i den del av försörjningskedjansom är produktion. I denna studie i utvecklingslandet Vietnam. Från ett Skandinaviskt textil ochkonfektions företags perspektiv, gällande arbete kring styrning av inköp och produktion.Den första frågan strävar efter att ge en bild av de strategier som ofta används för management,övervakning och genomförande av CSR och CoC. Metoder såsom, egna auditeringsdivisioner, attgå med i initiativ och att produktionschef inspekterar under fabriksbesök, gås igenom medtyngdpunkt på arbetsmetoder. Dessa strategier presenteras för att ge läsaren en bakgrund tillbegrepp och en inblick i det praktiska arbetet kring arbetet med CSR. Den andra frågan fokuserarpå faktorer som påverkar förvaltning, övervakning och implementering av CSR och CoC iVietnam. De tre områdena nationell kultur, mellanchefsnivå och framtiden för företags socialaansvar i Vietnam, presenteras och diskuteras. Den sista frågan är tänkt att knyta uppsatsen, och detvå föregående frågorna samman, hur skandinaviska textil och konfektionsföretag kan samarbetamed vietnamesiska leverantörer för att skapa mervärde i leverantörskedjan. Denna fråga knyteran till de två tidigare, den första som söker möjligheter att använda strategier för genomförande,den andra påvisar faktorer som påverkar företagens sociala ansvar i produktion i Vietnam.Sammanfattningsvis presenteras en lista i kapitel fem, som redovisar negativa och positivaaspekter rörande styrning av CSR i Vietnam. De negativa är, milda oorganiserade strejker, den"om du kan dölja det, finns det inte" attityd som finns, mellanchefer, utlandsägdaproduktionsanläggningar och det kommunistiska enpartisystemet. Positiva aspekter inkluderar,utvecklingsland, ett spirande allmänhets intresse, arbetare reagerar, och en positiv inställning tillskandinaver.Anmärkningsvärda upptäcker som gjorts i denna avhandling var att företagets storlek oftapåverkar vilken strategi och initiativ som valts. CSR koder motsvarar ofta direkt mjuka lagar somILO konventioner, chefer på mellannivå är en nyckel till framgång. Köparens makt skall inteunderskattas, krav på att produktionen följer sociala normer bör krävas för att skapa långvarigförändring i försörjningskedjan. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Although distribution and warehousing theory have been extensively studied in terms of optimisation and functional excellence the extension of these concepts into supply chain management has not been fully explored. In addition information at which decision level warehousing strategies are formed is limited. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate which supply chain drivers and subordinate variables that affect warehousing decisions and how these can be used for warehousing strategies. The findings will serve as a decision support in strategic warehouse network design. To fulfil the purpose of the thesis a case study was performed at a sportswear company contributing to the textile and apparel focus of the research. The case company is facing a potential restructure of its warehousing network as the current distribution strategy has created different constraints and complexities which have lead to problems. Through a literature review important supply chain drivers as well as warehousing variables have been identified and serve as the basis for the case company investigation conducted using interviews and a survey. The empirical findings contribute to the results by determining whether decisions regarding the variables are on a strategic, tactical or operational level. The result is a Decision Support System integrating supply chain drivers, warehousing variables and decision levels. The framework fills gaps found in the literature by defining different decision levels of warehousing and by integrating warehousing in the supply chain strategy. The Decision Support System is subsequently applied to the case company revealing areas which need to be considered and improved prior to a restructuring of its warehousing network. By using the Decision Support System a textile and apparel company can map its supply chain and warehousing strategy revealing strengths and weaknesses in the network. The Decision Support System facilitates decisions regarding warehousing and simplifies the process of moving from the strategy employed to the best practice strategy thereby increasing customer satisfaction and achieving a competitive advantage. / Program: Textilt management med inriktning styrning av textila värdekedjor

研究生從事成衣業二十載，目睹近年來成衣業遭遇困境、或歇業、或出走、或多角化經營，大大削減其在國際上之競爭力。本論文試圖研究成衣業之競爭優勢，並建立競爭力指標，尋找出指標間相對之重要性，以做為未來發展之模式。 本研究發現成衣業之競爭力有行銷能力、製造能力、研發能力、人事及組織能力，其相對權重分別為：0.315、0.275、0.258、0.152。其最重要者為行銷能力，依次為製造能力、研發能力、最後為人事及組織能力。而在行銷力方面，最重要者為品質、價格，其次為商情資訊蒐集反應顧客需求，掌握自主性國際行銷管道及提供多樣化商品能力。製造能力指標相對重要性為原料供應充裕及配合度最重要，快速反應交期短、生產高附加價值商品之能力少量多款之生產能力，自動縫製電腦輔助系統應用，先進製衣技術之應用較不重要。研發能力指標以開發新產品最重要，設計新產品次之，而管理資訊系統之開發較不重要。人事及組織能力指標相對重要性其差異不大，分別為設計行銷人員水準，人才培訓教育及合理化管理能力。 針對以上指標相對重要性比較台灣及大陸之競爭力，顯示台灣已喪失價格之競爭力，因此兩岸成衣業者應依據比較利益原則進行垂直分工，亦即台灣善用技術、人才、管理、設計能力、資金、行銷技巧的絕對優勢在台灣接單，在大陸加工，結合大陸廉價勞力、原料、優惠措施共同發展以創造彼此的最大利益。以上之先決條件必須是台灣繼續發展成衣業，致力於產業結構之調整及升級。

This paper is the result of a minor field study conducted in Istanbul, Turkey, during the period of November and December 2007. The purpose of the paper is to investigate the current business environment for apparel manufacturing in Istanbul. Research was carried out through an industry analysis in terms of competition and potential future development for apparel manufacturers. The research has been carried out through interviews with actors related to the apparel manufacturing segment. Interviewees include five manufacturers, two sourcing agents, one trade organization and one professor with research in the area. Our findings concerning the business environment are based on Michael E. Porters theoretical framework on “How Competitive Forces Shape Strategy”. In the case of Turkish apparel manufacturers this paper concludes how the barriers of entry for new actors are high, unless integrating forward. Additionally in general terms the suppliers have a weak bargaining position while customers are relatively strong in the bargaining process. The rivalry among apparel manufacturers is low, but it can be stated how less differentiated manufacturer experience significant higher level of rivalry. Further on this paper also concludes how these factors not are affected by any substitute products, much due to the broad scope of the study. In respect to these factors a general strategy used by apparel manufactures has been identified as they try to affect the balance of these competitive forces through e.g. differentiation and vertical integration.

The thesis investigates the reasons behind the proliferation of non-governmental systems of labour regulation in the textile and apparel industry in the USA, European Union and Turkey. The aim of the study is to identify the main structural factors, strategies and agencies which drive the process for the emergence of these systems within the confines of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) discourse and assess their effectiveness and sustainability as a form of regulation. The thesis concludes that the incapability of the traditional institutions to regulate and equalize labour standards throughout the buyer-driven apparel value chains played a key role in the search for new regulatory mechanisms. Among many alternatives, the contests and compromises between different strategies constrained by the current structural factors resulted in the dominance of non-governmental systems of regulation resting on the extension of regulatory authority from the public to the private institutions. However, whilst filling some gaps between the organization of production and existing regulatory institutions through transforming into more collective forms, these systems tend to supplement the traditional institutions of regulation in a period of crisis rather than replacing them, since their scope fall short for solving the problems of standardization, equalization and generalization of the labour standards and their associated costs.

RÉSUMÉ Le gouvernement du Québec a adopté en novembre 1999 le projet de loi 47, relatif à la Loi concernant les conditions de travail dans certains secteurs de l’industrie du vêtement et modifiant la Loi sur les normes du travail (1999, c. 57). Son entrée en vigueur eut pour effet d’abroger au 30 juin 2000 les quatre (4) décrets sectoriels de convention collective qui régissaient les conditions d’emploi d’approximativement 23 000 travailleurs affectés à la production de vêtements (gant de cuir, chemise pour hommes et garçons, confection pour hommes et pour dames). Cette recherche démontre que bien qu’inscrit dans une logique étatique de dérégulation du travail visant à favoriser la compétitivité, le maintien de normes de substitution aux décrets dans le cas du vêtement québécois ne dérive pas pour autant d’une déréglementation strictement néolibérale. Au plan plus théorique, l’émergence et le sort du régime de conditions d’emploi étudié dévoilent la nature politique du processus d’élaboration des règles salariales, qu’il soit d’origine législative ou contractuelle. Cette dynamique repose sur le caractère mouvant des relations de pouvoir et d’influence des agents engagés dans la régulation institutionnelle, où l’État est appelé à jouer un rôle de catalyseur ─ et non de tiers arbitre indépendant ─ à l’endroit des tensions qui procèdent du rapport salarial et du mode de production au sein duquel il s’inscrit. / ABSTRACT In November 1999, the Government of Quebec has adopted the bill 47 related to the Act respecting conditions of employment in certain sectors of the clothing industry which amended the Act respecting labour standards (1999, c. 57). On June 30 2000, after the bill came into force, the four (4) sectoral decrees regulating the terms of employment of approximately 23,000 workers in apparel production were repealed (leather glove, men’s and boy’s shirt, men’s wear and ladies’s garment). This research demonstrates that even if in line with the deregulation logical of the government aiming to foster competitiveness, the continuation of replacement standards for the decrees in the Quebec’s clothing industry does not stem for all that from a fully neo-liberal deregulation. In a more academic view, the surveyed labour standards plan’s emergence and fate reveal the political nature of the wage rule determination process, legislative or contractual. This dynamics is based on the changeable characteristic of the power relationship and influence of the institutionnal actors involved in the legislative regulation where the State is destined to play an enabler role – and not as an independent referee – in regard of the pressures resulting of the wage labour relationship and the production mode in which this one is embedded.

Title: Conscious purchasing - Securing the purchasing process in the apparel industry Authors: Jakob Bank, Emma Sjödoff and Helena Zebergs Tutor: Roger Stokkedal Examiner: Helena Forslund Background: There has been several scandals within the apparel industry and due to this brand owners of apparel companies has started to offer their customers’ alternative products, which has been manufactured in a more conscious and sustainable way. The purchasing process has thereby become more complex including multiple criteria such as social and environmental considerations which have to be fulfilled by their suppliers. Purpose: To describe how Swedish brand owners of apparel companies select their supplier for their conscious collections, which sustainability policies they include in contracts with their selected suppliers and how they evaluate these suppliers in regard to the brand owners’ policy on sustainability. Method: This thesis was conducted using qualitative semi-structured interviews and a deductive approach. Several sampling methods was used which led to the involved companies who were interviewed through both structured as well as semi-structured interviews. Conclusion: Swedish brand owners of apparel companies select their suppliers based on how well they fulfil their demands, and if there is a possibility to establish a long term relationship. They include different sustainability policies in their contracts, but all suppliers need to approve the brand owners CoC as well as use organic cotton. The evaluation visits are conducted, but the evaluation responsible, how often it takes place and the duration of the visit depends on the brand owner.