Thesis. (M. Tech. (Dept. of Marketing, Faculty of Management Sciences)) -- Vaal University of Technology, 2011. / The underlying determinants of how and why people shop has been a topic of study for many years, when typologies of shopping styles were developed. These studies have been successful in demonstrating that some shoppers display consistent shopping orientations that can be diametrically opposed, for example, the functional shopper versus the recreational shopper. This study concentrates on purchasing patterns of consumers by examining the decision-making styles of Generation Y consumers with regard to fashion apparel. The study reports on various stages that consumers undergo when confronted with a decision situation. These stages are outlined as need recognition, information search, pre-purchase evaluation, purchase, consumption and post-consumption. The buying behaviours influencing consumers were categorised into internal and external factors. The internal factor includes perception, motivation, learning, attitudes, personalities, self-concept, lifestyle and demography. The external factors comprised the following variables, namely, cultural background, subculture, family influence, and the social factor. The general characteristics of Generation Y were briefly discussed. Various dimensions used to measure consumer decision-making styles were reviewed in the study related to perfectionism, brand consciousness, novelty-fashion consciousness, recreational consciousness, price-and-value-for-money consciousness, impulsiveness and confusion as a result of overchoice of brands. The study adopted quantitative approach. A structured questionnaire was used to survey 230 students who were selected using non-probability convenience sampling. Seven dimensions measuring consumer decision-making styles were found to be applicable within the Generation Y context. These consumers were profiled as being quality conscious, brand conscious, novelty-seeking, hedonistic, confused by overchoice, habitual, brand loyal and fashion conscious. Differences were found between consumers who are confused by overchoice and younger Generation Y consumers. Younger consumers were found to be more confused by overchoice compared to their older counterparts. It is suggested that apparel retailers should try to use communication channels which will be more understandable by Generation Y consumers, and they should provide information that assists buyers to make a rational decision in the buying process. Differences were also confirmed between habitual, brand-loyal consumers and age. It was found that younger consumers are more likely to be loyal to specific brands as compared to their older counterparts. Differences were noted between brand conscious, confused by overchoice and gender. Brand consciousness was regarded as a reflection of men‟s desire to use shopping as a demonstration of their superiority, as well as being beneficial because they reduce search costs. It was revealed that males were more brand conscious than their female counterparts. It also highlighted that males were more confused by overchoice than females. The study found that the majority of Generation Y does pursue quality, even if it means paying higher prices. It is recommended that retailers should continue to emphasise their well-known brand names and set prices at levels where consumers perceive the quality of the product by its price. Retailers should focus on diverse designs, sizes and colours in their product assortment and range. The introduction of new products through the use of fashion shows, fashion magazines and advertisements may provide added advantages in terms of brand awareness / Central Research Committee of the Vaal University of Technology

O dinamismo inerente a moda expõe as cadeias de suprimentos a um desafio constante: gerenciar a relação com múltiplos agentes envolvidos em um longo lead time produtivo, enquanto atendem aos anseios por novidades frequentes no ponto de venda. A Cadeia Produtiva Têxtil e de Confecção (CPTC) se antecipa, em até dois anos, nas apostas de tendências e direciona às suas confecções um fluxo empurrado de produtos originais em formas, matérias, cores e estampas. Contudo, é no varejo que o êxito, ou insucesso, de uma coleção fica nítido e tem seus maiores impactos de incerteza. Em sentido contrário, o fast fashion ganha notoriedade por resolver esta problemática, encurtando ciclos produtivos e postergando acabamentos de produção, em uma cadeia de suprimentos que atende às solicitações do varejo, com trocas constantes de informação. Este modelo de negócios se torna, na revisão bibliográfica, um bom exemplo de aplicação das práticas de Gestão da Cadeia de Suprimentos (GCS) na moda, com exemplos recorrentes de marcas do Reino Unido, Suécia, Estados Unidos, Itália e Espanha. Surge, então, o interesse em verificar como interagem os agentes das CPTC do Brasil, comparando coleções programadas e de moda rápida, e se conseguem aplicar as diretrizes da GCS. Um estudo de casos múltiplos em 4 empresas, sendo 2 em modelo tradicional e 2 fast fashion, leva a resultados que confirmam a literatura nas práticas varejistas, enquanto diferem, especialmente nos métodos produtivos, levando a indagações sobre a adaptação dos parâmetros internacionais ao cenário local / The inherent dynamism of fashion exposes supply chains to a constant challenge: managing the relationship with multiple agents involved in a long productive lead time, while meeting the yearnings for frequent novelties at the point of sale. The Textile and Apparel Production Chain (TAPC) anticipates trends, within two years, and directs to their factories a flow of original products into shapes, materials, colors and prints. However, it is in retail that the success, or failure, of a fashion collection becomes clear and has its greatest impacts of uncertainty. On the other hand, fast fashion is notorious for solving this problem, shortening production cycles and postponing production finishes, in a supply chain that responds to retail requests, with constant information exchanges. This business model becomes, in the bibliographic review, a good example of applying the practices of Supply Chain Management (SCM) in fashion, with recurring examples of brands from the United Kingdom, Sweden, the United States, Italy and Spain. Arises interest in checking how the TAPC agents of Brazil interact, comparing traditional and fast-fashion collections, and whether they are able to apply the guidelines of the SCM. A multiple case study in 4 companies, 2 in a traditional model and 2 fast fashion, leads to results that confirm the literature in retail practices, while differing, especially in productive methods, leading to inquiries about the adaptation of international parameters to the local scenario

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-29T14:16:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Solange Monteiro Amador.pdf: 860317 bytes, checksum: 72b0bff2792d45bfd1e12fc3bcfdce9e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-11-17 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This thesis focuses on the work category in the Brazilian production and social reproduction. This category was examined through the prism of Bolivian immigrants, workers and residents in the sewing factories in the city of São Paulo, in order to understand the modern slave labor. The research, both theoretical and empirical, consists on the study of references about the Brazilian historical process, highlighting the debate over the slave and free labor, the implementation of neoliberal ideology, the flexibility of labor, the expansion of informal work, the repetition on forms of organization and labor relations and the resulting deregulation of rights, beyond the perpetuation of slave labor. The productive restructuring in the textile garment sector enables the Bolivian legal and illegal immigration, encouraged by the demand for labor in the sewing garages, forming the modern slave labor. The research relies on interviews with four Bolivians who work in sewing shops in the city of São Paulo, one of whom, owner of the garage. The display of the results of field research supports all bibliographic review, focusing on the concrete social process. São Paulo registered 17.960 Bolivians living in the city in 2013. This number represents an increase of 173 % since 2000 and puts the Bolivian immigrant colony in second position in the city, whose leadership is Portuguese. Many Bolivians who live and work in sewing garages in the central districts of São Paulo city are part of the 21 million slave laborers in 2013 around the world. This manpower army generated a profit to the private economy about 330 billion reais according to the ILO, which also revealed this amount as twice the value generated by the international drug dealing. Slavery abolished in Brazil in 1888 with the Golden Law reveals itself under a new guise, positioning the work category at the center of debate / Esta tese versa sobre a categoria trabalho no processo de produção e reprodução social brasileiro. Tal categoria foi examinada pelo prisma dos imigrantes bolivianos, trabalhadores da costura e residentes nas oficinas da cidade de São Paulo, com o intuito de compreender o trabalho escravo moderno. A pesquisa, de natureza teórico-empírica, constitui-se do estudo de referências bibliográficas sobre o processo histórico brasileiro, com destaque ao debate acerca do trabalho escravo e livre, da implementação do ideário neoliberal, da flexibilização do trabalho, da ampliação do trabalho informal, do rebatimento nas formas de organização e relações do trabalho e da decorrente desregulamentação de direitos, além da perpetuação do trabalho escravo. A reestruturação produtiva do setor-têxtil-vestuário viabiliza a imigração boliviana legal e clandestina, alimentadas pela demanda de mão de obra nas oficinas de costuras, compondo o trabalho escravo moderno. A pesquisa conta com entrevistas realizadas com quatro bolivianos que trabalham em oficinas de costura da cidade de São Paulo, sendo um dos quais, dono da oficina. A exposição dos resultados da pesquisa de campo acompanha toda a revisão bibliográfica, privilegiando o processo social concreto. São Paulo registrou 17.960 bolivianos vivendo na cidade em 2013. Esse número representa um aumento de 173% desde o ano 2000 e coloca a colônia imigrante boliviana em segunda posição na cidade, cuja liderança é portuguesa. Muitos dos bolivianos que vivem e trabalham em oficinas de costura nos bairros centrais da cidade de São Paulo compõem os 21 milhões de trabalhadores escravos mundiais de 2013. Esse exército de mão de obra gerou um lucro para a economia privada de cerca de 330 bilhões de reais de acordo com a OIT, que revelou ainda, ser esse saldo duas vezes superior ao resultante do tráfico internacional de drogas. A escravidão abolida no Brasil em 1888 com a Lei Áurea se desvela sob uma nova roupagem, posicionando a categoria trabalho no centro do debate

Purpose: The purpose of this research is to explore current practices regarding circular economies in the apparel industry and to construct a framework for integrating circular economy practices in the Swedish apparel industry. Methodology: With a constructionist view and an abductive approach the purpose is to be achieved through two qualitative case studies. The themes identified were analysed and interpreted. Theoretical perspectives: The theoretical framework is based upon a business context, on the basis of the textile management in general and logistics, recycling, sustainability and reverse systems in particular. Empirical foundation: The empirical material consists primarily of 9 in-depth semi-structured interviews with various roles at Uniforms for the Dedicated and Filippa K, as well as through a Skype interview with the project manager of Re:Design Studio. They have been asked to talk about their view of sustainability, their practices and future developments. Conclusion: When integrating circular practices in the value chain the authors have identified five main areas that should be integrated, in order to develop towards a circular economy: reimagine, reduce, reuse, repair and recycle. / Program: Applied Textile Management

The aim of this thesis is to study the usage of an Apparel and Footwear Environmental Assessment Tool, the Rapid Design Module, in Swedish companies in the textile and fashion industry and the tool’s possible impact on the change process of organizational culture towards a more sustainable one. A qualitative study has been conducted via interviewing and observing employees using the focal tool on-site in three different companies. A theoretical framework within organizational culture was developed along with necessary cultural traits a company should nurture in order to change its culture towards a more sustainable one. The most important findings pointed out that companies should develop common guidelines in order to use the tool in question coherently and in unison. The tool was found to act as a change initiator in the employee level of the companies and additionally management support was found to be essential in order to empower employees in taking initiative in their work. Furthermore, the tool showed signs of increased collaboration within the companies’ external and internal environments, i.e. learning from one another, as well as it was observed to encourage interdependent thinking, which both are the necessary traits mentioned earlier. / Program: Master programme in Fashion Management

Problem Since the globalisation has enabled apparel companies to purchase materialsand goods from all around the world, the constant challenge is to find themost beneficial country and supplier who can provide the highest value tothe lowest cost. There are however factors to be considered in the aspect ofsupplier selection and the decision is often made through assessment ofnation-specific resources like labour costs, deliveries, trade restrictions andquality. It is important for apparel companies to relate the outcome of asupplier evaluation to the own company strategy or product characteristicsas factors may be more or less crucial depending on the strategy or producttype the company possess. With wages now increasing in Europe, Ukraine ispredicted to become a new apparel-producing alternative for Swedishcompanies. However, there is no evident niche in Ukrainian apparelproduction, which can be set in the context of company and productcharacteristics.Purpose The purpose of this thesis is to perform a supplier evaluation of Ukraine anddiscuss what company and product characteristics that might be moresuitable for producing apparel in Ukraine.Methodology A qualitative research has been carried out on a MFS scholarship for eightweeks in Ukraine. The empirical findings are based upon semi-structuredinterviews with five experts and observations and interviews in six factories.A supplier evaluation model is created upon the existing theories and theempirical results are discussed in the context of company and productcharacteristics.Conclusion A company should consider evaluating multiple factors and theinterrelationships between the factors in ability to reach a fulfilling supplierselection. It can be argued that there are predominantly characteristics foundto suit companies with the cost leadership strategy or functional products.Furthermore, because of trade rules and a low access to materials mostUkrainian factories work on Cut-Make contracts with foreign customers.Problem: Globaliseringen av klädindustrin har bidragit till att klädföretag köper materialoch färdiga plagg från länder runt om i världen. Det är en ständig utmaning atthitta det landet och den tillverkaren som erbjuder det högsta värdet till den lägstakostnaden.Det finns många olika faktorer som man bör ta hänsyn till i ettleverantörsval och beslutet är oftast taget genom utvärdering av nationsspecifikaresurser som lönekostnader, leveranser, kvalitet och handelshinder. Det är viktigtför företag att utvärdera länder och leverantörer utefter företagets egna strategieroch produkternas karaktär eftersom olika faktorer vid leverantörsutvärdering kanvara olika viktiga beroende på företag och produkter. När lönekostnaderna stiger iövriga Europa framträder Ukraina som ett möjligt produktionsland som spås enframtid som ett alternativ för svenska klädföretag. Ukraina har däremot ingen klarnisch, vilket är intressant att titta närmare på i samband med olikaföretagsstrategier och produkttyper.Syfte: Syftet med studien är att göra en leverantörsutvärdering av Ukraina somklädproducent och diskutera vilka företagsstrategier och produkttyper som kanlämpa sig bäst för produktion i Ukraina.Metod: Uppsatsen är skriven på ett MFS-stipendium under åtta veckor i Ukraina. Detempiriska resultatet är baserat på semi-strukturerade intervjuer och observationer isex stycken klädesfabriker och intervjuer med fem stycken experter. En modell förleverantörssutvärdering är skapad från existerande teorier och det empiriskaresultatet av utvärderingen diskuteras i samband med olika företagsstrategier ochprodukttyper.Slutsatser: Ett företag bör överväga att utvärdera flera faktorer och deras inbördes sambandför att kunna uppnå ett tillfredsställande leverantörsval. Det har påfunnits flestkaraktärsdrag som passar företag med en kostnadsstrategi eller funktionellaprodukter. På grund av handelsregler och dålig tillgång till material jobbar deflesta ukrainska producenter med Cut-Make kontrakt mot utländska kunder. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

O estudo apresenta uma análise sobre as trajetórias de Progressão Industrial em empresas/setores produtivos de países em desenvolvimento que participam de cadeias globais de formação de valor. Para isto são estudadas as cadeias produtivas do complexo têxtil-vestuário em Honduras e no Brasil. A análise usa as abordagens de Cadeias de Formação de Valor - Global Commodity Chains, assim como os modelos de Industrial Upgrading e a tipologia de Modernização Industrial. Estas abordagens julgaram-se complementares para a construção do referencial teórico do estudo. Em Honduras a pesquisa focalizou o caso das empresas maquiladoras de roupa, no Brasil estudaram-se as cadeias lideradas por empresas brasileiras que atuam no mercado nacional e internacional. “Estudos de Casos Múltiplos" foi a metodologia escolhida para a realização da pesquisa de campo, em função da necessidade de estudar casos complexos em contextos diferenciados. A reflexão final conclui que há diversos caminhos de inserção nas cadeias produtivas globais para as empresas dos países em desenvolvimento. Os avanços em termos Progressão Industrial para as empresas que participam dessas cadeias são limitados não só por aspectos tecnológicos ou de habilidades da força de trabalho local se não também pelas regulamentações do comércio internacional. Os acordos preferenciais e as barreiras comerciais são fundamentais para determinar as relações entre as empresas líderes e as subcontratadas, assim como a estrutura e a governance das cadeias produtivas globais. Mas também conclui-se que é possível uma inserção no mercado internacional menos dependente das empresas dos países centrais, que é através de cadeias lideradas por empresas dos países em desenvolvimento, utilizando para isso estratégias de inovação tecnológica, de gestão e em design e investimentos na valorização de marcas, atividades que geram maior valor agregado e permitem sua apropriação. / Abstract: The thesis is an analysis about the ways of the industrial upgrade in productive companies/sectors of developing countries which are included in global value chains. It was selected the productive chains of the textile/apparel sector in Honduras and Brazil. The analysis uses the approaches of global value chains and global commodity as well as the patterns (models?) of industrial upgrading and the typology of industrial modernization. These approaches were considered important to the theoretical references of the study. In Honduras, the research focus was on the dressing “maquilas". In Brazil the focus was on those chains leaded by Brazilian companies acting both in the national and international market. It was chosen the multiple study case methodology to the field research due to the complexity of the cases in different environments. It was concluded that there are several ways for a developing country company to be inserted in the productive global chains. It is limited the development in terms of industrial upgrading for those companies which participate in these chains, not only by technological and manpower aspects but by the international commerce regulatory framework. The commercial barriers and the preferential agreements are fundamental to determine the relations between the leading companies and the sub-contracted ones as well as the structure and the governance of the global productive chains. Otherwise, the study shows that by using strategies as: technological and management innovation; design and investments in the valuation of trademarks, the companies from developing countries can get international markets because these strategies aggregate more value and facilitate their appropriation. Resumem: Este estudio presenta el análisis de las trayectorias de Avance Industrial en empresas y sectores productivos de países en desarrollo que participan de cadenas globales de formación de valor, para el cual se estudian las cadenas productivas del complejo industrial textil-vestido en Honduras e en Brasil. Para la construcción del marco teórico se utilizan los modelos de Cadenas de Formación de Valor - Global Commodity Chains, de Industrial Upgrading y la topología de Modernización Industrial. En Honduras se investigaron las empresas maquiladoras de ropa y en Brasil las cadenas lideradas por empresas brasileñas que actúan en el mercado nacional y en el internacional. Se escogió la metodología de “Estudios de Casos Múltiples" para realizar la investigación de campo, debido a la necesidad de analizar casos complejos en diferentes contextos. Se concluye finalmente que hay diversos caminos para la participación de las empresas de los países en desarrollo en cadenas productivas globales y que los avances en términos de Avance Industrial para estas empresas son limitados, no solo por aspectos tecnológicos o por la falta de habilidades de la fuerza laboral local, sino además por las leyes del comercio internacional. Los tratados de preferenciales y las barreras comerciales son determinantes fundamentales de las relaciones entre las empresas líderes y las subcontratadas, de la composición y de la estructura de poder en dichas cadenas productivas globales. Pero se concluye además, que hay posibilidades de participar en el mercado internacional de forma menos dependiente de las empresas de los países desarrollados y que esto puede ser alcanzado en cadenas productivas lideradas por empresas de los países en desarrollo, si estas implementan estrategias de innovación tecnológica y de gestión, con inversión en diseño y en la valorización de marcas originales pues son estas, pues son estas las actividades que generan mayor valor agregado y posibilitan su apropiación

Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-15T19:48:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Marcia Valeria de Araujo.pdf: 762124 bytes, checksum: 7018529fe25539f01ce7838cf4966f4e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-09-20 / The focus of the present work is to analyses the history of religious women s garment, beyond studies about women identity concerning religion and clothing crossing history of religion around the time. The differences between distinguished religions and clothing are the point of view to study the women identity and its place in religious community. Women are the biggest participant in Christian religion. Not only in participation but in numbers either. The possibilities opened by religious group to women s paper is the target of studies to search the knowledge of this knowledge of this relation. So, history and women clothing studies in the religious community are the importance of the present work. / O presente trabalho tem como objetivo geral traçar uma história do vestuário da mulher religiosa, através do estudo da formação histórica da identidade feminina e a relação com a doutrina da religião; bem como da formação da identidade religiosa, associada ao vestuário e adornos, estabelecendo uma clara relação com a história das religiões. Focará também, clara relação dessa identidade através da diferença de vestuário e adornos em diversas religiões através da comparação, visto que a mulher dentre o total de indivíduos freqüentadores de inúmeras denominações religiosas; ocupa papel principal na ação desenvolvida por estes sujeitos dentro da comunidade religiosa. São as mulheres que têm maior expressividade, sobretudo nas religiões cristãs. Aqui, a expressividade não significa necessariamente participação ativa e efetiva no desenvolvimento de cultos e da comunidade religiosa em si; mas sim expressividade em números. As possibilidades abertas pelos grupos religiosos ao papel da mulher é alvo de constantes estudos para buscar o entendimento desta relação. Logo, insere-se aqui o papel histórico da indumentária feminina, com identidade religiosa dentro as comunidades e grupos religiosos.

For a multi-national company like Adidas, supply chain management is one of the most crucial aspects of business operations. Products cannot be sold unless Adidas’s supply chain is well-managed and efficient, and public perception of a brand/company is critical to success. This case study analyzes the effectiveness of Adidas's distinct “collaborative approach” to supply chain management, which is characterized by not only monitoring and auditing suppliers, but also training them to make Adidas’s standards their own and approaching suppliers with the intention of building long-term relationships where the suppliers can become self-sufficient. This study reviews the structure of Adidas's supply chain, the nature of Adidas's collaborative approach to supply chain management, the benefits that collaboration provides over the conventional "compliance" approach to supply chain management, and the potential shortcomings of Adidas's approach. A conclusion is reached that the collaborative approach is the backbone of Adidas's success as one of the largest apparel manufacturers in the world because of its holistic nature and consideration for unique cultural challenges.

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