In September 2015, the world leaders gathered to endorse 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDG), demonstrating a paradigm shift for people and the planet build on shared values, principles, and priorities for a common destiny. In the process of consolidating the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) consultations with business representatives raised two issues related to the potential success of the goals. The first issue was to better measure and value true performance of business preconditioned by identifying the most significant impact areas. The second issue was concerned with integration of sustainability into core business strategies. Both issues lead back to the proclaimed paradigm shift built on shared values for a sustainable future as demonstrated by the SDGs and demonstrate challenges with implementation of the SDGs. Although comprehensive frameworks to help business integrate the goals have been developed, the complexity and sheer volume of the various targets and indicators hinder many companies from reporting on their performance and contributions. The textile and apparel industry, while endowed with enormous potential related to development of countries has drawn increased attention to its negative impacts along the value chain. The industry is also one of the first to integrate the SDG into their sustainability reports. However, critics point to the fact that simply linking sustainability activities to the SDGs is not enough and cherry-picking the goals that have the easiest business case will be insufficient. Thus, to address this potential discrepancy between communication and action, the aim of this study has been to investigate the perceived value of SDGs integration in sustainability reporting within the apparel industry. Through a critical discourse analysis, the study has reviewed six sustainability report by two Swedish apparel companies, Lindex and Filippa K, from 2015 to 2017. conceptual framework has been developed according to the SDG compass including two variables; communicated motives for SDG integration and methods to measure and report on goal fulfilment. The findings show that both companies are using the SDGs as a communicative tool to point to the conceptual motives which drives the sustainability work. Discursive strategies to frame the companies’ sustainability methods are made by utilizing the concept of “circularity”. The level of SDG integration differs between the companies. Lindex show discursive developments between 2015 to 2015 reflecting extended responsibility with correspondence between communication and action. While Filippa K does not show the same level of discursive maturity in terms of motive, the methods to address the sustainability issues related to circular fashion has accelerated significantly over the years comparatively to Lindex. The lack of communicated methods to address social issues is however evident. The findings further show that there is a correspondence between level of SDG integration and SDG contribution. This study corroborates with previous research arguing that the business world is more complex than something that can be assessed in a black and white dichotomy of hypocrisy versus sincerity and needs a much more sophisticated approach to the gap between promise and performance and that the SDGs have a transformative potential. It also provides insights on how the application of the SDGs can be seen through a spectrum between weak and strong sustainability depending on the maturity of a company’s sustainability management.

abstract: “Smart” materials are used for a broad range of application including electronics, bio-medical devices, and smart clothing. This work focuses on development of smart self-sealing and breathable protective gear for soldiers against Chemical Weapon Agents (CWA). Specifically, the response of chemo-mechanical swelling polymer modified meshes to contact with stimuli droplets was studied. Theoretical discussion of the mechanism of smart materials is followed by development and experimental analysis of different modified mesh designs. A multi-physics model is proposed based on experimental data and the prototype of the fabric is tested in aerosol impingement conditions to confirm the barrier formed by rapid-self-sealing feature of the design. / Dissertation/Thesis / Masters Thesis Mechanical Engineering 2016

O Brasil tem experimentado, nos últimos anos, o aumento no consumo de vestuário. A ascensão de um grande contingente de pessoas a um determinado patamar de consumo trouxe uma série de oportunidades para a indústria têxtil nacional. Não apenas o comércio varejista de roupas se sofisticou como também a cadeia têxtil-vestuário precisou se adaptar a uma nova realidade: um modelo de produção que tem como base a velocidade e o preço. Este trabalho, a partir de uma análise que engloba os processos produtivos e a venda de vestuário na capital paulista, busca explicar de que maneira o varejo legitima seu produto enquanto moda. Assim, elencamos três fatores essenciais para a análise de nosso objeto, a moda varejista: i) como nasceu e se desenvolveu o modelo de varejo existente até hoje. Nesta etapa abordamos a história de três magazines extremamente relevantes para história do varejo da cidade e mesmo do país Casa Alemã, Mappin e Mesbla - além de dois bairros fundamentais para a formação da indústria têxtil de São Paulo o Brás e o Bom Retiro. ii) o modo como a cadeia têxtil-vestuário paulistana adaptou seus meios de produção para acompanhar as mudanças do mercado. Aqui, analisamos dados quantitativos oriundos da RAIS além de material bibliográfico sobre o tema e, iii) como operam os atores envolvidos na fabricação e na venda da moda varejista. Para isso, abordamos dois representantes de funções centrais na produção de moda varejista, a produção e a distribuição: uma confecção, a R Confecções e um magazine, a saber, a Riachuelo. Nossa pesquisa é balizada pelo referencial teórico de Patrik Aspers, pesquisador suíço cujo foco de investigação é o mercado de moda varejista europeu. O instrumental apresentado por este autor nos permite compreender como se formam e se organizam os mercados de moda varejista. / In the last years, Brazil has experienced an increase in the clothing consumption. The entrance of a large number of people into a certain consumption level brought a series of opportunities to the domestic textile industry. Not only the retail clothing market became more sophisticated but the textile-clothing chain had to adapt to the new reality: a production model based on speed and price. This paper, from the analysis that encompasses productive processes and the garment retail sector in the city of São Paulo, tries to explain how retail legitimizes its product as fashion. Therefore, we listed three essential factors to the analysis of our subject, the retail fashion: i) how did the existing retail model come to life and develop. At this stage, we take the history of three department stores extremely important to the history of retail in the city and even in the country: Casa Alemã, Mappin, and Mesbla. We also included two neighborhoods that were the building blocks of the textile industry in São Paulo Brás and Bom Retiro. ii) how the textile-clothing chain of São Paulo has adapted its production means to keep up with the market changes. Here we analyze quantitative data from RAIS and the material about this subject found in the literature, iii) how the manufacturing and sales stakeholders operate in the retail fashion. We interviewed two representatives of production and distribution core functions in retail fashion: one apparel manufacturer - R Confecções and one department store, Riachuelo. This research follows Patrik Aspers theoretical referential, a Swiss researcher whose investigation focus is the European retail fashion market. The tools presented by this author allows us to understand how retail fashion markets are created and organized.

A atual pesquisa faz parte do grupo de pesquisa, cadastrado no Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico, sobre moda na cadeia têxtil, tendo como foco as questões sociais da manufatura do vestuário de moda. No sistema fast fashion, a substituição ocorre de modo rápido e instantâneo, conforme o feedback das vendas, sendo um setor influenciado pelo universo da moda, buscando atender consumidores que procuram peças que contenham estilo, moda e/ou modismo. Para seguir com este modelo de negócio, as empresas começaram a se concentrar no seu core business, que muitas vezes corresponde ao marketing, gestão de marcas, comercialização, design, pesquisas, repassando a terceiros a produção das peças de vestuário, onde é predominante a subcontratação. Com essas ramificações, abrem-se brechas para comportamento oportunistas, as quais buscam o seu lucro em função da precarização das relações de trabalho. No entanto, há um aumento de ações que visam a eliminação dessas práticas espúrias de competição, promovendo sistemas produtivos com conceitos pautados em requisitos de responsabilidade social, resultando em melhores condições de trabalho, competitividade e lucratividade. Assim, tornam-se importantes pesquisas que identifiquem empresas com esse novo desempenho estratégico em nível nacional, pois contribui tanto para a sociedade quanto ao meio acadêmico, por meio da geração de bibliografia e identificação de pontos que podem resultar em mudança corporativa. Portanto, esta pesquisa teve por objetivo estudar e analisar os impactos percebidos na cadeia de fornecimento com o selo ABVTEX em responsabilidade social pelo programa de certificação de fornecedores da Associação Brasileira do Varejo Têxtil, bem como a identificação de práticas de monitoramento pelos varejistas signatários. Em um primeiro momento realizou-se pesquisas bibliográficas que possibilitaram a fundamentação teórica, a qual auxiliou na construção dos questionários com perguntas estruturadas e semiestruturas a serem aplicados aos integrantes do estudo de múltiplos casos, e na elaboração do questionário aos fornecedores por meio da pesquisa survey. Após foi possível analisar os casos e comparar o aprendizado organizacional dos varejistas em responsabilidade social através do modelo proposto por Zadek (2004). Os resultados permitiram confirmar as proposições norteadoras, e identificar que o impacto percebido pelos fornecedores e varejistas é positivo, porém necessita de ações corretivas afim de garantir maior transparência e credibilidade. / The present research is part of the research group, registered on the National Council for Scientific and Technological Development, about trendy in the textile chain, focusing on the social issues of the manufacture of fashion apparel. In fast fashion system, the replacement is make quickly and instantly, following feedback from sales, being an industry influenced by the fashion universe, seeking for consumers which are looking for products with style, fashion and / or fad. To continue with this business model, companies began to focus on their core business, which often corresponds to marketing, brand management, commercialization, design, research, passing on to third parties the production process of garments where it is predominant subcontracting. With these ramifications in the chain, gaps are opened for opportunistic companies, which seek their profit due to the precariousness of working conditions. However, there is an increase of actions aimed at eliminating these spurious practices competition, promoting productive systems with concepts guided by social responsibility requirements, resulting in better working conditions, competitiveness and profitability. Thus, it becomes important research to identify companies with this new strategic behavior at a national level, as it contributes both to society and to academic environment, through the generation of bibliography and identification of points that can result in corporate change. The objective of this study was to study and analyze the perceived impacts of the supplier chain with the ABVTEX seal on social responsibility by the supplier certification program of the Brazilian Association of Textile Retail, as well as the identification of monitoring practices by the signatory retailers. At first, bibliographical research was carried out, which enabled the theoretical framework, which helped to build of the questionnaires, with structured questions and semi-structures to be applied to the members of the study of multiple cases, and in the elaboration of the questionnaire to the suppliers through the research survey. Afterwards, it was possible to analyze the cases and compare the organizational learning of retailers about social responsibility through the model proposed by Zadek (2004). The results allowed us to confirm the guiding propositions and to identify that the impact perceived by suppliers and retailers is positive, but requires corrective actions to guarantee greater transparency and credibility

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) är företagens ansvar för den sociala-, miljömässigaochekonomiska påverkan de har på samhället. Begreppet inkluderar även företagens förmågaatt självmant engagera sig mer än vad lagen kräver. Under de senaste åren har det uppdagats ettflertal skandaler som har lett till att det numera har blivit allt viktigare för företag att engagerasig inom CSR och kommunicera ut denna information till sina intressenter. Tidigare forskningvisar dock på att det finns begränsat med forskning kring företagens kommunikation av derasCSR-engagemang. Dessutom implementerades en ny lag i årsredovisningslagen i slutet av2016, vilket kommer att tvinga fler företag att hållbarhetsrapportera. Ungefär 1 600 företagberörs av lagändringen då Sverige har valt att inkludera fler företag än vad EU-direktiven kräver.Således har det blivit relevant att fortsätta diskussionen och studera konsumenters förtroendeför den information som företag kommunicerar ut. Syftet med denna studie är därmed attbidra till en fördjupad diskussion angående förtroendet till företags CSR-kommunikation. Studiensforskningsfråga har formulerats på följande sätt: Vad anser konsumenter vara förtroendeingivandeCSR-kommunikation gällande klädföretag?Studien är av kvalitativ karaktär med en abduktiv forskningsansats. Insamlingen av det empiriskamaterialet har skett genom en diskursanalys på fyra företags hemsidor; H&M, KappAhl,Haglöfs och Fjällräven, samt sju semi-strukturerade intervjuer. Vad gäller studiens analys hartidigare forskning samt två teorier tillämpats på det empiriska materialet; The pyramid of corporatesocial responsibility och Legitimitetsteorin.Det framkommer i studien att fokus vid kommunikation av företagens CSR-engagemang primärtbör ligga vid etiskt ansvar för att legitimitet ska erhållas. Studien visar på att klädföretagensfokus på denna ansvarskategori stämmer överens med respondenternas värderingar. Inometiskt ansvar bör företagen främst uppmärksamma de mänskliga rättigheterna i form av de anställdasförhållanden och en intolerans av barnarbete. Utöver detta är det relevant för företag attkommunicera ut ett engagemang inom företagens juridiska- och filantropiska ansvar för att ettförtroende ska genereras. Det är även av vikt att kommunicera ut information som är transparentoch som belyser både för- och nackdelar gällande verksamheten. Slutligen bör företag undvikaatt kommunicera ut information som kan uppfattas vara en förskönad bild av verkligheten samtinformation som kan tolkas ha ett marknadsföringssyfte. / Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is a concept that involves the companies’ responsibilityfor the social-, the environmental- and the economic impact they have on the community. Italso includes the companies’ aspiration to do more than the law require them to do. During thelast years, several scandals have been revealed which have resulted in the importance of engagingwithin CSR for the companies. Furthermore, to communicate this information to the companies’stakeholders. However, previous research shows that there is limited research regardingthe companies’ communication of their CSR engagement. In addition, a new law was implementedby the end of 2016, which will force more companies to establish a sustainability report.Approximately 1 600 more companies will be affected by the change of law since Sweden havechosen to include more companies than the EU directives require. Consequently, it has becomemore relevant to continue the discussion and to study the trust of the consumers regarding theinformation that companies communicate. The purpose of this thesis is to contribute to the discussionabout what is considered as trustworthy information regarding the companies’ CSRcommunication. The research question of the thesis is: What do consumers consider to be trustworthyCRS-communications regarding apparel companies?The thesis is of a qualitative nature with an abductive research approach. The collection ofempirical data has been gathered through a discourse analysis on four companies’ websites;H&M, KappAhl, Haglöfs and Fjällräven and seven semi-structured interviews. When it comesto the analysis of the thesis, previous research and two theories have been applied to the empiricaldata: The Pyramid of Corporate Social Responsibility and Legitimacy Theory.In the thesis it appears that the companies primarily focus regarding the CSR engagement,should be to communicate the ethical responsibility to obtain legitimacy. The thesis shows thatapparel companies’ focus on ethical responsibility equals the respondents’ values. Within theethical responsibility the companies primarily should pay attention to the human rights such asthe conditions of the employees and an intolerance concerning child labor. In addition to theethical responsibility it is relevant for the companies to communicate an engagement regardingthe legal- and philanthropic responsibilities to obtain trust. It is also important to communicateinformation that is transparent and highlight both the pros and cons of the business. Finally,companies should avoid communicating information that may be perceived as a false image ofthe reality, as well as information that can be interpreted as having a marketing purpose.

Det finns i dagsläget inget tvingande regelverk kring hållbarhetsredovisningar vilket innebär att företag kan utforma sin information på vilket sätt de vill, om de ens väljer att ge ut någon alls. Organisationen Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) arbetar med att förbättra ramverket för hållbarhetsredovisningar och ger med anledning av detta ut riktlinjer kring vad en hållbarhetsredovisning bör innehålla inom de tre områdena ekonomi, miljö och social påverkan. Tidigare forskning visar att större företag utsätts för större granskning av media och högre press av sina intressenter och frågan är om detta medför en mer omfattande hållbarhetsredovisning än mindre företagen. E-handelsföretag står för en allt större del av den totala försäljningen och därför ansågs även denna aspekt vara intressant, speciellt med tanke på att tidigare forskning inom e-handelsbranschen inte berört just kläddetaljister vilket denna studie varit inriktad på. Syftet med studien var att erhålla kunskap om omfattningen och utformningen av hållbarhetsredovisningen hos 15 kläddetaljister. Studien syftade även till att kartlägga om och hur detta skiljer sig mellan världstäckande, europeiska, skandinaviska och e-handelskläddetaljister. Olika förklaringar finns till varför företag väljer att ge ut frivillig information. Det kan vara på grund av att de utsätts för exponering i media och därmed utsätts för press, att företagens intressenter har rätt till information, att företagen vill ha legitimitet eller att företag påverkas av och imiterar varandra. Resultatet av den kvalitativa innehållsanalysen av företagens hållbarhetsinformation bekräftar tidigare forskning då det är tydligt att mer exponerade företag (med butiker i hela världen) överlag har en mer omfattande hållbarhetsredovisning än mindre exponerade företag (med butiker i enbart Europa, Skandinavien eller på internet). Undantaget finns i den sociala kategorin där Europabaserade företag har ett något bättre snitt än världsföretagen. E-handelsdetaljisterna har generellt sett fått ett lågt resultat på alla områden. Flertalet e-handelsdetaljister skriver ingenting om sitt hållbarhetsarbete varken i någon hållbarhetsredovisning eller på sin hemsida. Detta är anmärkningsvärt då det rör sig om stora företag med hundratusentals kunder och det vore intressant att forska vidare på detta område genom exempelvis intervjuer med representanter för företagen. / At this point in time, there are no mandatory rules regarding sustainability reporting which means companies can choose to design their sustainability reports in any way they see fit, if they choose to provide any information at all. The organization Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) aims to improve the framework for sustainability reporting by supplying guidelines regarding what a sustainability report should contain within the areas economy, environment and social impact. Previous research has shown that bigger companies are exposed to bigger pressure from their stakeholders, which poses the question if this entails a more extensive sustainability report than smaller companies. Since e-commerce constitutes a growing part of the total sales this was also an interesting aspect to examine, especially considering no previous research has been made regarding the apparel industry, which this study aimed to look at. The purpose of the study was to gain knowledge about the extension and form of the sustainability reports from 15 clothing retailers. The study also aimed at exploring if and how these reports differ between worldwide, European, Scandinavian and e-commerce retailers. There are different explanations as to why companies choose to disclose voluntary information. It may be because of exposure in the media and the pressure that comes with it, stakeholders right to information, to attain legitimacy, or that companies affect and imitate each other. The result of the qualitative content analysis of the chosen companies' sustainability reports confirms previous research. It is clear that more exposed companies (with stores worldwide) generally has a more extensive sustainability report than less exposed companies (with stores in Europe, Scandinavia or online). There is one exception in the social category where companies with stores in Europe has a slightly better average result than companies with stores worldwide. E-commerce companies produce very low results throughout all three categories. Multiple e-commerce companies have no information about their sustainability work neither in reports nor on their websites. This is noteworthy since these are big companies with hundreds of thousands of customers and this would be an interesting topic for further research, for example by conducting interviews with representatives from the companies.

The purpose of this Master’s thesis is to present to the reader a comprehensive overview on how the characteristics of grocery products and apparel products influence the customer behavior and the choice of an offline or an online sales channel within an omnichannel marketing strategy. This thesis takes a company’s point of view in order to investigate the reactions and the resulting marketing and channel strategies the different retailers apply while taking into account the varying customer behavior. In order to fulfill this purpose, we formulated and presented two research questions and three propositions that helped to investigate the chosen subject matter of this thesis. The research philosophy of this Master’s thesis is based on an interpretivist epistemological perspective and a subjectivist ontological view. The research conducted within this thesis has an exploratory nature. In addition, the deductive approach is used to study the research questions, while adopting a qualitative research method. The practical method employed in this thesis in order to fulfill the purpose is based on conducting multiple semi-structured, non-standardized interviews. The respondents and the companies they represent are divided according to the industry they belong to, namely the apparel retail or the grocery retail, and the geographically located in Europe. The final results are then gained by the combination of the primary data, yield from the interviews, and secondary data, collected during a literature search and an undertaken literature review. The contribution of this Master’s thesis is represented by an analysis that combines the theoretical perspectives and empirical findings. They provide an overview on how do the characteristics of products influence the customer behavior and the choice of an offline or an online sales channel within an omnichannel marketing strategy while focusing on apparel and grocery retailers in Europe. In addition, the findings also provide an overview on how the apparel and grocery retailers react on the varying behavior of their customers and based on this, what marketing and sales strategies they employ.

This paper describes textile production in Istanbul, Turkey. From its historical background to the challenges of today. The respondents have told about how they work, talked about competition, communication, achievements, investments and much more. The purpose was basically to find out how important the textile industry, with focus on apparel, is in the economy of Turkey today. Also how this industry can develop, and what it will take to reach such development. The empirical material comes from experienced people in the field and is analyzed with the SWOT model besides other marketing and logistics related theory. Used method is a qualitative approach with semi structural interviews. Companies and associations in Istanbul have responded. These contributors are a mix of senior managers, specialists, officials, employees and entrepreneurs. An interview guide was developed after a pre-study in Sweden. Findings of the study shows that these companies are competing for international customers, but also working together for their industry and country. Some important factors to become successful is experience, research, innovation and customer care. To take a step of further development, more strategy, competence and investments might be needed. There are many other countries which can also challenge about the customers in this business. China and Bangladesh do have similarities with the early development of Turkey in the case of textile garment industry, but are now considered different as competitors. Turkey do have some national advantages, and not least its beneficial geographical position.

This study examines the use of True Fit® technology by millennial consumers and its impact on consumer confidence and satisfaction with respect to online sizing. In the apparel industry, there is a lack of size standards among retailers, and as a result consumers will encounter frequent size variations in their clothing size. Difference sizing technology has been developed to address the sizing issue. One is True Fit® which unlike other sizing technologies, uses mathematical algorithms to compile large amounts of data from designers. The purpose of this study was to analyze consumer confidence and satisfaction after True Fit® has been used to make a sizing decision while online shopping. The technology acceptance model (TAM) was used as the basis for the theoretical framework for this study. TAM explores how current advances in technology are influencing consumers' behaviors and attitudes. The variables studies included perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness, attitude, intent to use True Fit®, confidence and satisfaction. The methodology used in the study is a quantitative method consisting of an online survey and a True Fit® task, where consumers were exposed to True Fit® prior to answering questions about the use of sizing technology. The results of the study suggest the dependent variable of confidence and satisfaction with the sizing technology was positively affected by the intent to use True Fit®. Thus, it can be inferred that consumers felt positively about adopting apparel size technology and that technology such as this would have wide application in the future.

[pt] Um designer de moda, ou estilista, como qualquer outro designer, precisa ter conhecimento sobre os diversos fatores que podem interferir na configuração de um objeto, ou seja, ter conhecimento sobre as demandas dos usuários e dos produtores, a forma, os processos criativos, os materiais e processos de fabricação, os custos de produção, etc. Porém, apesar do projeto de um objeto do vestuário ser, aparentemente, muito semelhante ao projeto de qualquer outro objeto pertencente ao campo do design, a criação, desenvolvimento e produção de objetos do vestuário vinculados à noção de moda, no Brasil, só passou a ser pensada e considerada como atividade pertencente ao campo de atuação de um designer no final da década de 1990 e início do século XXI. Ainda assim, esta incorporação apresentou, e ainda apresenta, conflitos e reações tanto dos produtores de objetos do vestuário em relação às noções e valores vinculadas ao campo do design, quanto das instituições e agentes tradicionalmente pertencentes ao campo do design em relação às noções e valores associadas ao fenômeno moda e à produção de objetos do vestuário. Assim, se considerarmos que o desenvolvimento de objetos do vestuário e de objetos tradicionalmente pertencentes ao campo do design possui uma estrutura muito semelhante, é possível afirmar que, objetivamente, não existe, e, provavelmente, nunca existiu, propriamente uma divisão entre o campo do design de objetos do vestuário e o campo do design. Porém, no Brasil, existia uma noção que posicionava o objeto do vestuário vinculado à noção de moda como algo não pertencente ao campo do design e que, a partir do final da década de 1990 e início do século XXI, começou a mudar, indicando mudanças e transformações na própria estrutura e funcionamento do campo de produção de objetos do vestuário no Brasil. Desta forma, esta pesquisa de doutorado analisa, utilizando como fundamentação teórica a obra de Pierre Bourdieu, a constituição, estrutura e funcionamento deste campo, no Brasil, analisando como as posições e relações entre os produtores, receptores e as instituições de legitimação, reprodução e consagração do campo, atuam e interferem nas noções e valores específicos do campo, nas práticas associadas aos agentes deste campo e, consequentemente, na produção dos objetos de vestuário no Brasil e na delimitação e definição do campo de atuação de um designer de vestuário, nomeado atualmente como designer de moda. / [en] A fashion designer, like any other designer, need to have knowledge about the various factors that can affect the object configuration, need to have knowledge about the users and producers demands, the form, the creative processes, the materials and manufacturing processes, the production costs, etc. However, despite the clothing object being, apparently, very similar to the project of any object belonging to the design field, creation , development and production of clothing objects linked to the notion of fashion in Brazil only became be thought and considered as an activity belonging to the design field in the late 1990s and early twenty-first century. Nevertheless, this incorporation presented, and still presents, conflicts and reactions of both, clothing object producers regarding concepts and values related to the design field, as well as institutions and agents traditionally belonging to the design field in relation to the notions and values associated with fashion phenomenon and with the garment objects production. Thus, if we consider that the development of clothing objects and of objects traditionally belonging to the design field has a very similar structure, we can say that, objectively, there is not, and probably never existed, itself a division between the clothing objects design field and the design field. However, in Brazil, there was a notion that the clothing object linked to the notion of fashion is something not belonging to the design field and, from the late 1990s and early twenty-first century, began to change, indicating changes in the structure and functioning of the clothing objects production field. Therefore, this PhD research analyzes, using as the theoretical work of Pierre Bourdieu, the constitution, structure and functioning of this field in Brazil, analyzing how the positions and relationships between producers, receivers and legitimation, reproduction and consecration institutions of the field work and interfere with specific field notions and values, with the practices associated with this field agents and, consequently, the clothing objects production in Brazil and the delineation and definition of the clothing design field, named currently as a fashion designer.