This thesis studies consumption among young people who identify as mainstreamers in a Swedish small town. In order to map patterns of clothing consumption and to understand what was central in the young people’s self-identification, the research was conducted using a mix of ethnographic methods and wardrobe studies. This is an inverted study of the subcultural, that problematizes the assumption that the majority (the mainstream) and the minority (the countercultural) are opposites when it comes to identity creation. The central concepts used here are ordinary (vanlig), mainstream, and subculture. One of the main findings is that the youth studied self-identify as ordinary. This finding is used to problematize not only the traditional markers of masculinity and femininity as they present themselves in this context, but also what is characterized as new patterns of consumption. There are two main conclusions. First, being mainstream and ordinary was not a static identity position, as the literature would have it; instead, being an ordinary mainstreamer required constant work in order to stay within certain culturally negotiated boundaries. Second, the ethnographic findings contribute in the field of subcultural studies by questioning the convention of portraying the mainstream and the subcultural as polar opposites: contrary to the literature, it is argued that neither is so very different from the other, making it an unhelpful dichotomy in understanding young people today.

Denna studie har behandlat ämnet konsumentkultur och vår studie har undersökt hur företaget Nudie jeans Co’s kultur angående hållbarhet tas emot och efterlevs av deras jeansköpare. Den metod som valts för vår studie är intervjuer med jeansköpare samt en representant från Nudie. För att få en förståelse kring konsumentkultur har en teoretisk referensram byggts upp kring McCrackens (1986) modell angående ämnet. Denna modell tar upp olika begrepp kring hur konsumentkultur överförs från företag till enskild konsument, samt vilka instrument som används för att göra detta. En modifierad modell har även gjorts, som förklarar hur Nudies kultur överförs till sina jeansköpare. Utifrån vårt resultat har det framkommit att jeansköparna har en del gemensamma egenskaper men att deras engagemang och kunskap kring jeansen skiljer sig åt. Jeansköparna har därmed delats in i fyra olika kategorier som vi valt att kalla nudienörd, mellanmjölk, den okunnige samt miljöfreak. Utifrån vårt resultat har det visat sig att Nudies jeansköpare inte ser företagets hållbarhetstänk som avgörande faktor då de köper jeans, utan faktorer som kvalitet och passform är det som styr. Däremot känner många av jeansköparna till flera av Nudies kärnvärderingar vad gäller hållbarhet, vilket tyder på att företagets kultur nått jeansköparna till viss del. Vi konstaterar att Nudie är rätt i tiden med sitt hållbarhetsarbete och den mening de tillskriver jeansen. Dock har syftet ännu inte nått jeansköparna på samma sätt som Nudie önskar eftersom företaget ligger något före jeansköparnas utveckling.

The general motive of this work will be to try to develop an new way of using mathematics in a fashion design process.By using mathematics in order to make a way to calculate what will be a part of the collection and what it will look like. The background for this work is mathematics, deconstruction and the skinhead uniform consisting of a bomber jacket, shirt and denim jeans.The aim is to explore a mathematical formula as a design method for new expression in menswear.A mathematic formula which decides what garment, material and construction-method to use in an outfit. Using the formula to give me the parts/ingredients, a construction-method and fabric that I can use to make the outfit, after that I use my ingredients/parts to create new shapes out of the parts given to me by the formula. A strive for a more controlled and distanced relationship to your work is something that I tried to developed in my work by using a mathematical formula as a tool. There are potentials in using a mathematical formula in designing a collection. But also obstacles to pass in order to have a focused outcome. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

Background – Circular business models, CBMs, are an emerging topic of interest within the textile and clothing, T&C, sector. They provide a new framework to tackle current environmental and social issues by redesigning a linear model previously base on the assumption of endless availability of fossil fuels and other natural resources. CBMs change these underlying assumptions in order to be regenerative and waste-less. A company´s knowledge has to be aligned with the overarching paradigm and assumptions that guide the business model, hence, the process of creating new knowledge to sustain this shift, appears to be essential. Knowledge creation enables businesses to continuously adapt to new contexts and prevent them from becoming obsolete. As such, it constitutes an enabler to develop the internal capabilities of companies to innovate. Purpose - This study is focused on understanding how knowledge is created within T&C companies in the shift from a linear business model to a circular one. It is of interest for the study to uncover the ways in which knowledge about circularity is created and translated into business practices. Further, it also expects to explore the companies’ main internal barriers identified in this process. Methodology – The research was conducted through a single case study with an abductive approach, building on the theoretical perspective of Nonaka and Takeuchi’s knowledge creation theory and the SECI model for knowledge conversion. Semi-structured interviews with Dutch denim company employees were the basis for collecting primary data, supplemented by secondary data gathered through archival review. The data was analysed qualitatively through thematic content analysis. Findings – Results show that knowledge creation is enabled by personal motivation, company focus on circularity and long-lasting business relationships. Several knowledge creation practices related to the dimensions of socialisation, externalisation, combination and internalisation are identified, while different levels of process and knowledge complexity can be observed within each dimension. Internal barriers hindering circular knowledge creation relate to the complexity of circular concepts, individuals´ time, personal interest and previous knowledge on the topic. System-oriented internal barriers relate to finance, scale and company focus. Further, the role of regulations, as an external system-oriented barrier, is considered of relevance for this research. Practical implications & Research limitations – This thesis creates new insights into a relatively unexplored area, knowledge creation processes in the context of CBMs. Further the specific delimitation to the denim segment within the T&C sector, shares experience and guidance with practical implications for knowledge management, from companies within a segment which has a high degree of product and process innovation compared to other T&C segments.

In this project a collection of clothes, based on the raggar culture has been developed. e work is intended to be a modernization of the clothing, exploring the subculture and developing it, however without loosing its attitude. In uences from other related subcultures have also taken part in the work. The aim is to investigate the technique of spray painting directly on garments, as a method for developing prints, taking visual inspiration from the culture of raggare. Sources for inspiration to the painting have been gra ti, airbrush and action painters. In order to keep the attitude of the raggar culture, the collection is largely based on vintage clothing, linked to the culture in question. e result in this project is a collection containing eight out ts, dedicated mainly to raggare but also to others.

In this study, a series of denim fiberboards are fabricated using two different resins, malamine urea formaldehyde (MUF) and polymeric methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (pMDI). Two experimental design factors (1) adhesive content and (2) MUF-pMDI weight ratio, were studied. All the denim fiberboard samples were fabricated following the same resin blending, cold-press and hot-press procedures. The physical and mechanical tests were conducted on the fiberboard following the procedures described in ASTM D1037 to obtain such as modulus of elasticity (MOE), modulus of rupture (MOR), internal bond (IB), thickness swell (TS), and water absorption (WA). The results indicated that the MOE was significantly affected by both factors. IB was affected significantly by weight ratio of different glue types, with 17 wt% more MDI resin portion in the core layer of the denim boards, the IB for total adhesive content 15% fiberboard was enhanced by 306%, while for total adhesive content 25% fiberboard, enhanced by 205%. TS and WA, with higher adhesive content used in denim boards' fabrication, and more pMDI portion in the core layer of the boards, the boards' TS and WA was reduced by up to 64.2% and 78.8%, respectively.

Today’s consumption of textiles generates a large volume of textile waste. Therefore, it is needed to find solutions to re-use the textile waste rather recycling fibers into new fibers. Research using pre- and post-consumer textiles in composites is ongoing and an interesting direction. This thesis reports the recycling of discharged cellulose containing textiles by production of all-cellulose composites (ACCs). ACCs are composites consisting entirely of cellulose. ACCs from discarded denim and polycotton hospital sheets (PCO) were successfully produced with partial dissolution and two-step method. Discarded denim fabrics with 100% cotton (CO) and blend material (BCO) was sorted and shredded into fibers, then made into nonwovens by needle punching. The produced nonwoven laminates and intact hospital sheets were used as the reinforcement in the composites while dissolved cellulose in an ionic liquid (IL), 1-butyl-3-methyl imidazolium acetate ([BMIM][Ac]), was used as the matrix phase. The matrix is then regenerated by removal of the [BMIM][Ac] by washing to form the composite. The washed-out [BMIM][Ac] was collected and recycled in order to study the effect of its reusing as recycled cellulose solvent on mechanical properties of ACCs. Combinations of the different methods, materials and solvents were studied. The mechanical properties – tensile, flexural and impact properties and the void content of the produced composites were deter-mined. Microscopic analysis was done to study the cross-section of the composites. It could be concluded that the achieved values for the mechanical properties can be compared with ACCs found in literature. The results from the research implies that it is possible to find a new purpose for recycled textiles in the form of composites. With this approach, it is possible to avoid unnecessary disposal of textiles containing cellulose.

En förväntad ökning av jordens befolkning ställer den redan ökande fiberkonsumtionen på sin spets. Bomull är en av de mest frekvent använda textilfibrerna men dess vatten- och kemikalieanvändning i framställningsprocessen har lett till förödande konsekvenser för människa och miljö. Flera alternativa, hållbara fibrer behöver därmed introduceras på marknaden. Garn av papper från råvaran abacá har länge använts till textila ändamål till följd av dess goda mekaniska egenskaper. På senare år har intresset för fibern ökat främst på grund av dess miljömässiga fördelar i jämförelse med bomull. Garn av papper är dock styvt och känns strävt mot huden. För att vidga pappersgarnets användningsområden måste därför dess taktila egenskaper förbättras genom någon typ av behandling. Textilproduktion är kemikaliekrävande och flertalet av kemikalierna som används är miljö- och hälsofarliga. Det är därför av intresse att hitta en mekanisk metod för mjukgöring snarare än en kemisk. En sådan mjukgöring har därav utvecklats och undersökts inom projektets ramar. Mjukgöringen är en smärglingsbehandling i garnform där garnet leds genom en bladspännare utrustad med två sandpapper som smärgeldukar. Behandlingen ämnar öka antalet utstickande fiberändar och på så vis efterlikna känslan av ett stapelfibergarn. Genom att garnet behandlas redan i garnstadiet kan det sedan användas till valfri textil konstruktionsteknik. För att undersöka effekten av smärglingsbehandlingen har studien delats in i två delar. Den ena delen undersöker två klassiska denimvävar av 100 % papper där väftgarnet i den ena väven har smärglats en gång medan väftgarnet i den andra är obehandlat. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) har använts för att objektivt analysera vävarnas taktila egenskaper, alltså hur de känns vid beröring. För att undersöka hur vävens ytstruktur förändrats till följd av behandlingen har provkropparna fotograferats i svepelektronmikroskop (SEM) och ljusmikroskop. Studiens andra del undersöker effekten av upprepade smärglingsbehandlingar på garn. Pappersgarner som behandlats mellan noll och fem gånger undersöks dels gällande dess mekaniska egenskaper men även visuellt i SEM och med hjälp av ljusmikroskop. Behandlingen förväntas minska garnets styrka. För att kontrollera om de behandlade garnerna är tillräckligt starka för att användas i en industriell vävprocess trots den mekaniska degraderingen jämfördes deras styrka med ett referensgarn av bomull. Majoriteten av resultaten från KES-testerna visar på att det inte är någon skillnad mellan en obehandlad väv och en väv vars väftgarn är smärglat en gång. Den behandlade väven är dock lättare att komprimera och har en större initial tjocklek än den obehandlade väven. Detta tyder på att smärglingen kan ha ändrat garnernas diameter vilket resulterat i högre invävning och därmed ökad vikt och tjocklek. Den visuella undersökningen av garnerna i ljusmikroskop pekar mot ett ökat antal utstickande fiberändar i takt med ökat antal behandlingar. Dock är skillnaden mellan det osmärglade garnet och det garn som enbart smärglats en gång liten. Dragprovning av garn visar att det pappersgarn som smärglats fem gånger har signifikant lägre brottkraft än de övriga pappersgarnerna men är starkare än referensgarnet i bomull. Detta styrker förväntningen om att smärgling försämrar styrkan på garnet men visar också att de behandlade garnerna, trots den minskade styrkan, bör vara tillräckligt starka för att användas som väftgarn i maskinell vävning. Fiberändarnas effekt i en denimväv behöver undersökas vidare för att en slutsats kring hur de påverkar den taktila komforten ska kunna dras. Metoden för garnsmärgling är i sin initiala fas och flera parametrar behöver undersökas närmare innan metoden skulle kunna implementeras på industriell skala som en metod för mjukgöring av pappersgarn med syfte att främja den framtida fibermångfalden. / An expected population increase and rising consumption of textile fibres creates a demand for both new materials and processes. Cotton is one of the most frequently used fibres but its use is resource intensive both in terms of water and chemical agents. To meet these demands a range of alternative, sustainable fibres need to be developed and introduced into the market. Due to its good mechanical properties paper yarns produced from the abacá plant have long been used in textile applications. In recent years it has also garnered increased interest as a result of its environmental benefits in comparison to cotton. However, paper yarns tend to be stiff and feel coarse in contact with skin. In order for paper yarns to have larger fields of use its tactile qualities must therefore be improved. The production of textiles is generally reliant on the use of chemicals that in varying degree pose threats both to human health and the environment as a whole. It would therefore be beneficial to develop a method for the softening of paper yarns that is based on a mechanical approach, rather than a chemical one. In this project a mechanical method of softening paper yarns has been developed and tested. The softening process is an altered approach to conventional emery grinding and is performed on yarn rather than fabric. The yarn is guided through a leaf tensioner fitted with two sand papers with the purpose to increase the number of protruding fibre ends, thereby reproducing the feel of staple fibre yarns. In order to investigate the effects of the emery grinding two classical denim weaves were produced from 100 % paper yarn. The weft yarn in one of the weaves was emery ground once while the other was left untreated. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was used to objectively analyze the tactile qualities of the differently treated weaves. In addition to KES-tests Scanning Electron Microscopy and light microscopy was utilized for a visual analysis. Since it would also be of interest to study the effects of repeated treatments, yarn treated up to five times was inspected both visually and mechanically. The emery grinding process is expected to decrease the strength of the yarn. To check whether the emery ground yarns were strong enough to be used in an industrial weaving process, its strength was compared to a cotton yarn previously used as a weft yarn in a denim weave. Results from KES show no significant changes concerning the majority of parameters tested on the weaves. The treated weave is however easier to compress and presents an increase in initial thickness when compared to the untreated one. This indicates that the emery grinding may have altered the yarns diameter resulting in a higher crimp in the weave causing an increase in the weight and thickness of the fabric. The visual inspection of the yarns using a digital microscope point to an increase in protruding fibre ends as the number of treatments increase. The difference between untreated paper yarn and yarn that had been emery ground once was however small. The tensile test shows that yarn that had been treated five times had a significantly lower tensile strength compared to the other paper yarns but was still stronger than the cotton yarn. This indicates that emery grinding does indeed decrease the tensile strength of the paper yarn, but that it still should be strong enough to be used in industrial weaving. Paper yarn treated more than once would have to be studied further in order to come to a conclusion about their impact on the tactile comfort of the weave. The method of emery grinding is in its initial phase and a number of parameters can be assumed to have an effect on the results of the process. In the interest of creating more diversity in textile fibres the effects of these parameters would all have to be explored before this method can be implemented on an industrial scale for the softening of paper yarns.

Idén till arbetet föddes när vi var inne i en av Gina Tricots butiker, då en kund frågade personalen hur mycket ett par jeans som hon skulle prova kunde töja sig. Kunden kunde inte få något fullständigt svar på sin fråga, utan den anställde svarade ”lite”. Utöver detta har vi även fått uppfattningen av att personalen är mindre kunnig om bland annat de olika material som företaget använder sig av. Vi anser då att en materialhandbok kan vara lösningen på detta problem. Vi vill att Gina Tricots personal ska bli mer kunnig inom textil och därmed kunna hjälpa kunderna på ett korrekt och professionellt sätt.I nära samarbete med vår externa, samt interna handledare har vi kommit fram till de delar som materialhandboken består av. Dessa är väv, trikå och grovstickat, de olika naturfibrer, konstfibrer samt blandmaterial som företaget använder sig av, obehandlad och behandlad denim, samt färgning och tryckning. Utöver dessa punkter har vi även valt att ha med påmonterade detaljer, tvättsymboler, frågor och svar, såväl som en skötselöversikt. Under de olika fibrerna finns även underrubriker, såsom egenskaper och skötselråd, för att lättare kunna finna den information man söker.Det har varit viktigt att hitta en balans för att få med så mycket information som möjligt, utan att det blir för tungt för personalen. Likaså var det med språket, det vill säga att få fram en så innehållsrik text som möjligt, men utan för svåra ord, då alla i personalen ska förstå innebörden av texten utan några tveksamheter. Materialhandboken är även gjord på så sätt att man inte behöver läsa från pärm till pärm för att förstå innehållet. Allt för att den ska vara så användarvänlig som möjligt. / <p>The idea was born when we were at Gina Tricot, and a customer asked one of the staff how much a pair of jeans will stretch that she wanted to try on. The customer could not get a complete answer to her question, but the employee said "a bit". In addition, we also had the perception that the staff are untaught of, inter alia, the various materials the company uses. We thought a handbook of textiles was the best idea as a solution for this problem. We want Gina Tricots staff to become more knowledgeable in the textiles and thus be able to help customers in an accurate and professional manner.Working closely with our external and internal trainers, we have figured out what the handbook of textiles consists of. These are fabric, knitted and rough knits, the different natural fibers, artificial fibers and mixed fibers that the company uses, untreated and treated denim, as well as dyeing and printing. Beyond these points, we have also chosen details, laundry symbols, questions and answers, as well as a maintenance overview. Below the different fibers are their characteristics and care, to more easily find the information you seek.It has been important to find a balance in order to get as much information as possible in the handbook of textiles, without making it too complicated for the staff. It was similarly with the language, that is, to produce a text as rich as possible, but without the difficult words, when all of the staff should understand the meaning of the text without any doubt. The handbook of textiles is also designed so that it is not necessary to read from cover to cover to understand the content, to make it as user friendly as possible.</p><p>Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen</p>

Resource scarcity and increasing environmental pressure have raised the stakes for rethinking material efficiency and textile recycling potential. As current practices fail to feed a closed loop recycling system, this research aims to contribute to the improvement of prevailing practices regarding denim as one of the most popular apparel materials worldwide while focusing on the issue of increasing amounts of discarded post-consumer textiles. The superordinate objective to define the optimum point for denim recycling to retain the value of the cotton fibre as long as possible in a closed loop system, thereby elevating the recycling efficiency, can be considered a key driver for the present research. The following data acquisition is constructed and executed along a mixed method research, in which a qualitative approach based on expert interviews informs and builds up on the quantitative counter part of laboratory use simulation testing on two different denim fabrics and vice versa, leading to an embedded research design. A subjective assessment of potential alterations of the denim fabrics’ visual and tactile characteristics, caused by the use simulation, provides quantitative data through an employed expert panel, which is enhanced by objectively recorded results from the conducted tear strength test and comparative weight investigation to inform changes regarding the physical properties. The applied research methods provide parameters to monitor the decomposition and weakening of the overall fabric structure throughout the experiment. The analysis of the data allowed to assign the number of washing and drying cycles, that a denim garment has undergone, to a corresponding degree of degradation. The presented findings are a valuable resource for developing and innovating current open-end recycling options. The maintenance of the raw material value throughout various reprocessing cycles can counteract the elevated natural fibre scarcity. The insights on the material and process level build a fundament for the successful operationalisation and management of sustainable recycling practices. Further research in this field can pave the way towards value retaining circularity.