Submitted by Silvana Teresinha Dornelles Studzinski (sstudzinski) on 2017-02-09T15:33:48Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Tarsila Andrea Mari_.pdf: 1172256 bytes, checksum: b5ffff4129f4fbda1de47acd7be536b0 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-02-09T15:33:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Tarsila Andrea Mari_.pdf: 1172256 bytes, checksum: b5ffff4129f4fbda1de47acd7be536b0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-12-09 / Nenhuma / A indústria brasileira de calçados, no período recente, tem sofrido dificuldades em termos de produção, produtividade e exportações. Os indicadores apontam para uma perda de competitividade, principalmente, no calçado de couro. Essa perda de competitividade da indústria de calçados nacional, torna-se mais profunda quando se compara com o desempenho dos países asiáticos, nesse mesmo setor. Nesse sentido, é importante buscar por um novo posicionamento no comércio internacional, onde não somente o crescimento do comércio exterior, mas também da produção interna de calçados das empresas brasileiras, seriam definidos pelos ganhos de produtividade, estratégias de competitividade e atividades de inovação. Desta forma, esse trabalho tem como objetivo relacionar a dinâmica de inovação com as características internas das empresas calçadistas associadas à Abicalçados, observando os impactos dessas inovações. Recorreu-se, para isso, a dados primários extraídos de uma pesquisa de campo, através de um questionário semiaberto aplicado à 59 firmas associadas da Abicalçados, as quais representam aproximadamente 40% da produção nacional. Por meio de dois métodos estatísticos, teste qui-quadrado e análise fatorial, chegou-se em respostas que caracterizam que as empresas que realizaram inovações de processo possuem um melhor desempenho da sua produção e uma atividade exportadora contínua. Verificou-se também, que as empresas calçadistas desse estudo, que realizaram inovações de produto, percebem maiores facilidades na abertura de novos mercados consumidores e na manutenção da sua participação no mercado. Conclui-se, ao mesmo tempo, que a realização de inovações de processos por parte das empresas consegue manter estas no mercado internacional (ou seja, as mantém exportadoras). Entretanto a realização de inovações de produto combinadas com as de processo abre novos mercados para essas mesmas empresas. Adicionalmente, atestou-se que as empresas que trabalham, basicamente, com couro estão realizando menos inovações de processo que as empresas que trabalham principalmente com plástico/borracha, sendo que, a falta de inovações em processo, das empresas que utilizam principalmente o insumo couro, pode estar refletindo na baixa produção e baixo desempenho exportador das mesmas. / The Brazilian footwear industry, in the recent period, has suffered difficulties in terms of production, productivity and exportation. The indicators pointed to a loss of competitiveness, especially in leather industry. This loss of competitiveness becomes deeper when compared to the performance of Asian countries. It is important to seek for a new position in the international trade, where not only the growth of foreign trade, but also the domestic production, could be define by productivity gains, competitiveness strategies and innovation activities. In this way, this work aims to relate the dynamics of innovation with the internal characteristics of Brazilian footwear companies, observing the impacts of these innovations. For this, this work used primary data extracted from a field survey, through a semi-open questionnaire applied to 59 associated companies of Abicalçados, which represent approximately 40% of the national production. By means of two statistical methods, chi-square test and factorial analysis, this work arrived at answers that characterize that the companies that made process innovations have a better performance of their production and a continuous export activity. It was also verified that the footwear companies of this study, who made product innovations, perceive greater facilities in the opening of new consumer markets and in the maintenance of their participation in the market. At the same time, it is concluded that the company's process innovations can maintain them in the international market (that is, it keeps them exporting). However, product innovations combined with process innovations open new markets for these same companies. Additionally, it has been shown that companies that work primarily with leather are performing less process innovations than companies that work mainly with plastic / rubber, and, due to the lack of innovations in process, companies that mainly use the leather input, may be reflecting the low production and low export performance of the same.

在目前競爭強烈的工商業社會中，如何使產品在製造過程中損耗最少且能達成顧客的要求，是加強其競爭的手段。而重視產品品質是達到上述要求的必要手段。 　　本研究先對大大鞋廠目前的各項生產狀況加以詳細的敘述，並且根據現場所蒐集的各項數據建立相關的管制圖，以做為監督製程狀況的參考；同時現場的狀況，針對品質相關的問題加以敘述，並由所提出的問題分析研究，提出需要加以注意改善的部份；最後再根據所提出的各項品質問題給予改善的建議，作為本工廠日後改善的參考資料。

The human foot has been accepted over the years as an important source of afferent input, used not only in the recognition of the surrounding environment (e.g. hard and soft surfaces), but also in the fine regulation of common daily-live movements (e.g. gait and balance control). The performance of these movements is usually accompanied by fluctuations in foot skin temperature as well as reciprocal blood flow changes at the foot area. Moreover, both variables are likely to be affected by footwear usage. Although these three factors are constantly present during the performance of daily live movements, only little and partially controversial information regarding the effects of foot skin temperature, blood flow at the foot area and footwear on foot sensitivity can be found in the literature. Therefore, the goal of the thesis was to investigate the effects of foot skin temperature, blood flow at the foot area and footwear on plantar foot vibration sensitivity of healthy young subjects. Three single studies were performed in order to investigate each variable separately. The first study investigated the influence of foot sole skin temperature on plantar foot sensitivity of 40 healthy subjects. Vibration thresholds were measured at 200Hz at a initial baseline temperature and after cooling/warming the foot skin 5-6 °C. The second study investigated the influence of short-time lower leg ischemia on plantar foot vibration sensitivity of 39 young adults. Lower leg ischemia was evoked with a pneumatic tourniquet, placed about 10cm above the popliteus cavity. Vibration thresholds were measured at 200 Hz in three different cuff pressure conditions: baseline (0 mmHg), low (50 mmHg) and high (150 mmHg). Finally, the influence of footwear on foot sensitivity was investigated in the third study, using specific Formula 1 shoes. Twenty-five male subjects participated in the study. Plantar foot vibration thresholds were measured at 30 and 200 Hz in five different foot/shoe conditions (barefoot and four shoe conditions). In all studies, vibration thresholds were measured at three anatomical locations of the plantar foot: heel, first metatarsal head (MET I) and hallux. The main results of the three studies show that the analysed variables significantly influence plantar foot vibration sensitivity. Data from the first study show that 5-6 °C alterations in foot skin temperature significantly influence the foot sensitivity of healthy young adults, whereby skin cooling results in reduced foot sensitivity, whereas skin warming improves plantar foot vibration sensitivity. The results of the second study indicate that short-time lower leg ischemia; especially regarding the high cuff pressure condition (150 mmhg), significantly reduces plantar foot sensitivity. Data from the third study show that the footwear effects on foot sensitivity are frequency-dependent. While barefoot sensitivity is better than shod sensitivity at 30Hz, shod sensitivity is better than barefoot sensitivity when measured at 200Hz. In conclusion, foot sole skin temperature, blood flow at the foot area and footwear significantly influence the plantar foot vibration sensitivity of healthy young adults. The alterations in foot sensitivity caused by these variables have important consequences for future clinical as well as movement-related research. Future clinical applications of quantitative sensory testing should consider the influence of these three factors during the assessment of sensory data, in order to standardize the measurement procedures as well as to enhance the quality of the collected data. Regarding the movement-related research, further studies should try to identify the importance of foot sensitivity for the performance of different types of movements (including sport-related activities). Additionally, the combined effects of movement-related changes in foot skin temperature and blood flow should be analysed and integrated in the development process of functional footwear, which is able to fulffill the foot sensitivity requirements of different movements. / Die Rolle des menschlichen Fußes als wichtiger „Mediator“ sensorischer Reize wird zunehmen in der Literatur akzeptiert. Die vom Fuß aufgenommenen afferenten Informationen werden im Zentralen Nervensystem integriert und weitergeleitet, um die Regulation typischer Bewegungsmuster (z.B. Gang und Gleichgewichtskontrolle) mitzusteuern. Während der Durchführung derartiger Bewegungen werden oftmals Änderungen der Hauttemperatur oder auch des Blutflusses im Fußbereich provoziert. Diese werden wiederum durch das Tragen von Schuhen beeinflusst. Obwohl Hauttemperatur, Blutfluss im Fußbereich und Schuhwerk wichtige Faktoren bei der Bewegungsdurchführung darstellen, können nur wenige und teilweise konträre Informationen über den Einfluss dieser Faktoren auf die Fußsensibilität in der Literatur gefunden werden. Somit hat diese Dissertation zum Ziel, den Einfluss der Temperatur der Fußsohle, des Blutflusses am Fußbereich sowie des Schuhwerkes auf die Vibrationssensibilität des plantaren Fußes gesunder Probanden zu untersuchen. Um den Einfluss der einzelnen Parameter auf die Fußsensibilität untersuchen zu können, wurden drei Studien durchgeführt. Die erste Studie hatte zum Ziel, den Einfluss der Temperatur der Fußsohle auf die Vibrationssensibilität von 40 Probanden zu untersuchen. Dabei wurden die Vibrationsschwellen, - mit einer Frequenz von 200 Hz -, bei einer Ausgangsmessung sowie nach einer 5-6 °C Abkühlung/Erwärmung der Haut der Fußsohle gemessen. In der zweiten Studie wurde der Einfluss einer Kurzzeitischämie des Unterschenkels auf die plantare Fußsensibilität von 39 Probanden getestet. Die Ischämie im Unterschenkel wurde mit Hilfe eines im Bereich der fossa popliteal platzierten pneumatischen Tourniquets hervorgerufen. Die plantaren Vibrationsschwellen wurden mit einer Frequenz von 200Hz in drei verschiedenen Druckbedingungen ermittelt: Ausgang (0 mmHg), niedrig (50 mmHg) und hoch (150 mmHg). Schließlich beschäftigt sich die dritte Studie mit dem Einfluss vom Schuhwerk auf die Fußsensibilität. Fünfundzwanzig Probanden haben an der Studie teilgenommen. Die Vibrationsschwellen wurden mit Frequenzen von 30 und 200 Hz bei fünf verschiedenen Bedingungen gemessen (eine Barfuss- und vier Schuhbedingungen). In allen Studien wurden die Vibrationsschwellen im plantaren Fußbereich unter der Ferse, dem Metatarsalkopf I sowie unter dem Hallux ermittelt. Die Ergebnisse der drei Studien zeigen, dass die analysierten Parameter einen signifikanten Einfluss auf die plantare Vibrationssensibilität der Probanden haben. Die erste Studie zeigt, dass eine 5-6° C - Schwankung der Hauttemperatur der Fußsohle die Fußsensibilität signifikant beeinflusst, wobei die Erwärmung der Haut eine Zunahme der Fußsensibilität verursacht und die Abkühlung eine Abnahme der Fußsensibilität hervorruft. Die Ergebnisse der zweiten Studie demonstrieren, dass die im Unterschenkel hervorgerufene Ischämie eine Verschlechterung der Fußsensibilität verursacht, insbesondere bei den Messungen der Hochdruckbedingung (150 mmHG). Die Daten der dritten Studie weisen darauf hin, dass der Einfluss vom Schuhwerk auf die Vibrationssensibilität des plantaren Fußes frequenzabhängig ist. Bei einer Vibrationsfrequenz von 30Hz ist die Sensibilität barfuss besser als die mit Schuhen gemessene Vibrationssensibilität. Hingegen ist bei einer Frequenz von 200 Hz die mit Schuhen gemessenen Sensibilität besser als die Sensibilität barfuss. Anhand der Ergebnisse der drei Studien konnte festgestellt werden, dass die Temperatur der Fußsohle, Blutfluss im Fußbereich und Schuhwerk einen signifikanten Einfluss auf die plantare Vibrationssensibilität gesunder Probanden haben. Daraus folgen wichtige Hinweise für zukünftige klinische- sowie bewegungsorientierte Forschung. Der Einfluss der drei analysierten Parameter sollte künftig bei der Beurteilung sensorischer Daten mit einbezogen werden. Dies würde zum einem eine Standardisierung der Messverfahren gewährleisten, zum anderen die Qualität der im klinischen Bereich gemessenen Daten erhöhen. Im Rahmen bewegungsorientierter Forschung soll die Wichtigkeit der Fußsensibilität bei der Durchführung unterschiedlicher Bewegungsformen, auch sportlicher Bewegung, näher untersucht werden. Weiterhin sollte eine gemeinsame Analyse der bewegungsbezogenen Änderungen der Hauttemperatur bzw. des Blutflusses im Fußbereich in künftiger Forschung angestrebt werden. Folglich können diese Änderungen in die Entwicklung funktionellen Schuhwerkes eingesetzt werden, um den Anforderungen der Fußsensibilität bei unterschiedlichen Bewegungsformen möglichst gerecht zu werden.

The research contained within this thesis formed part of an Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC) funded project based at Loughborough University, which aimed to investigate the use of additive manufacturing (AM), and in particular sintering technologies, for the production of running footwear sole units. Laser sintering (LS) is an AM process which produces parts directly from a computer aided design (CAD) file by selectively fusing successive layers of powdered material using a CO2 laser. LS imparts significant advantages over traditional manufacturing techniques including extensive design freedom, the ability to manipulate the local properties of a single material part as well as economical manufacture of bespoke items due to the elimination of tooling. Modifying the mechanical properties and/or geometry of sole units has been shown to provide benefits in the areas of performance, injury risk reduction and comfort, especially when considering elite athletes on a subject specific basis. Given the attributes of LS outlined above, the technology offers significant potential to produce sole units offering high added-value compared to conventional counterparts which are limited by the constraints of traditional processing techniques such as injection moulding. However, the mechanical capacity of LS polymers in context of such application was unknown. Accordingly, this research investigated the suitability of a laser sintered elastomer (LSE) material, in view of key selected mechanical properties, for the manufacture of running shoe midsoles. The midsole is the primary functional component in the sole unit of a running shoe used for distance running on hard surfaces. Following a preliminary assessment of the selected LSE (TPE 210-S), a new dynamic test method was designed to assess the compressive, fatigue and time dependent recovery properties of midsole material specimens under loading conditions representative of in-service use. The method was successfully implemented on an electro-mechanical test apparatus (previously unreported upon in literature) and used firstly, to benchmark the aforementioned properties of a range of ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) and polyurethane (PU) midsole foams representative of the range currently used in production, and secondly, to establish the same property set for TPE 210-S specimens produced across a range of laser powers (LP's). Initial cycle operating ranges in terms of key compressive properties were established for EVA and PU materials. All conventional variants showed considerable deterioration from these initial values over the 125,000 cycle test regime, but subsequently demonstrated partial recovery when left unloaded post-test. PU grades generally exhibited better fatigue performance and findings were consistent with those of previous studies. Whilst variation in LP facilitated linear variation in displacement and stiffness properties for TPE 210-S, all specimens yielded a stiffer and more elastic response than that of conventional foams at the outset; initial compressive operating ranges, whilst within close proximity, did not overlap. However, fatigue performance was found to be superior with only relatively small property changes occurring over the test regime regardless of LP. Furthermore, no signs of catastrophic specimen failure (e.g. cracking) were visually apparent. In this respect the material showed good suitability for midsole applications, but further work is required to address increasing the available compressive property range which fell outside the scope of this work.

Traditional trade theories, such as the Ricardian and Heckscher-Ohlin models, posit that comparative advantage determines a country’s industrial structure in a liberalized trade environment. However, developments in contemporary trade theory challenge the central tenants of this approach. Ricardian and Heckscher-Ohlin models assume that industries are comprised of homogeneous firms that can be modeled using a representative firm. Under this conception, industrial evolution is driven by comparative advantages. However, empirical evidence of post-liberalisation industrial change indicates that industrial performance is significantly more variable than predicted by traditional models. Even within industries, firms exhibit markedly divergent performance. The new trade theory of heterogeneous firms thus argues that there are fundamental differences between firms, even within narrowly defined industries, and these differences drive a post-liberalisation churning process that results in the reallocation of capital and labour within an industry. This study takes an innovative approach. Instead of comparing productivity across a large sample of firms in different industries, it uses a case study to examine, in depth, the differences between firms within a particular industry. The industry selected for the study is the South African footwear manufacturing sector. The study employs qualitative research techniques to interrogate the applicability of the new trade theory of heterogeneous firms and, importantly, to investigate the scope for constructive development policy. It finds that there are marked differences between firms in the South African footwear manufacturing sector, and provides evidence that these differences matter. Additionally, it finds evidence of intra-industry reallocations in the period following trade liberalisation. These findings are significant in that they emphasise that in a liberalised trade environment, individual firms possess agency that allows them to develop a competitive advantage that may run contrary to the comparative advantage of the country in which they operate. These findings are helpful in developing a more accurate understanding of trade liberalisation dynamics, and they support the argument for industrial policy support in strategic industries. / Thesis (M.Dev.Studies)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban, 2012.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Wisconsin--Madison, 1993. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 300-315).

Submitted by Leonardo Cavalcante (leo.ocavalcante@gmail.com) on 2018-06-06T14:33:18Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Arquivototal.pdf: 2487080 bytes, checksum: 591670f968f9e384aaa5088500b05b7c (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-06-06T14:33:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Arquivototal.pdf: 2487080 bytes, checksum: 591670f968f9e384aaa5088500b05b7c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-04-07 / Introduction: The incidence of Work-Related Musculoskeletal Disorders (WMSDs) has increased in various industrial sectors, including the footwear one, relating mainly to the exposition of ergonomic risk. The introduction of systems based on multifunctionality and job rotation has become an alternative to reduce WMSDs. Objective: To analyze the ergonomic risks factors related to musculoskeletal disorders in mono and multifunctional activities in a footwear company. Methodology: Research was conducted with 57 monofunctinoal and 57 multifunctional workers from a footwear company in Northeast Brazil. The Corlett and Manenica Diagram was used to assess pain and the Occupational Repetitive Actions (OCRA) method to categorize the level of ergonomic risk for WMSDs. Ordinal logistic regression models built were related to pain and individuals and work variables; multinomial logistic regression models were related to the levels of risk to variability in tasks executed by worker. Results: (1) Assessment of muscular-joint pain. It was identified that for the monofunctinal, the ocurrence of muscular-joint pain may be connected with length of service. For multifunctional ones, outcomes suggest that beyond length of service, the history of work-related diseases. However, it was ascertained that for length of service, the monofunctional demonstrated to be more vulnerable to pain in periods of exposure to the risk time less than the multifunctional worker; (2) Assessment of the risk level. From the activities performed by the monofunctinals, 14% present acceptable risk; 12.3% very low risk; and 73.7% have potential risk for WMSD (10.5%, mild; 36.8%, medium; and 26.4% high). Regarding the set of activities performed by multifunctionals, 10.5% are within acceptable limit; 8.8% have a very low risk; 80.7% presented a potential risk for WMSDs (10.5%, mild; 54.4% medium; and 15.8%, high). (3) Mathematical modeling according to the type of work. It was determined that for multifunctionals the representative variables covered cycle time (OR=0.92; p=0,0075) and number of activities performed by left upper limb in this cycle (OR=1.21; p=0,0044). For the multifunctional ones, the variable with significant effect was the weighted mean from OCRA index related to left upper limb (OR=1,22*102; p=0,0076). Furthermore, it was verified the significance regarding the range of motion utilized, the use gloves, and requirement of precision during task execution, suggesting that such factors may be associated to exposition of the multifunctional to WMSDs (p<0,05). (4) 10 Mathematical modeling according to the level of multifunctionality. The results were relevant to workers from first level of multifunctional training (OR=6,76*10-2; p=0,0431). Conclusions: It is concluded that (1) workers showed more susceptibility to muscular-joint pain when they perform just one function; (2) the activities carried out by both the workers have a representative risk for WMSDs, with a medium to high tendency risk for monofunctional ones and medium for the multifunctional ones; (3) for the multifunctional ones, there are evidences that more elevated risk are associated with the cycle of activity; (4) for the multifunctional ones, there are evidences that higher level are related with the excessive or inadequate requirement of left upper limb by combination of activities; (5) Specifically for the multifunctional ones, kinesiological aspects and the characteristics of activities can be connected to development of WMSDs; (6) the multifunctional ones, in a early stage of training, are exposed to lower WMSDs risks when compared to the ones who work more time in a same range of functions; and (7) multifunctional ones who perform a combination up to 30% of the total intracellular activities, appear to be less exposed to WMSD risk than the ones who execute a combination of large activities. Keywords: Footwear industry; kind of work; Ergonomics; WMSDs; mathematical modeling. / Introdução: A incidência de Distúrbios Osteomusculares Relacionados ao Trabalho (DORT) aumentou em diversos setores industriais, inclusive o calçadista, relacionando-se, sobretudo a exposição ao risco ergonômico. A introdução de sistemas baseados na multifuncionalidade e na rotação de tarefas tornou-se uma alternativa para redução de DORT. Objetivo: Analisar os fatores de risco ergonômicos associados aos distúrbios osteomusculares em atividades mono e multifuncionais de uma empresa calçadista. Metodologia: A pesquisa foi realizada com 57 trabalhadores monofuncionais e 57 multifuncionais de uma empresa de calçados no Nordeste brasileiro. Utilizou-se o Diagrama de Corlett e Manenica para a avaliação da dor e o método Occupational Repetitive Actions (OCRA) para categorização do nível de risco ergonômico para DORT. Construíram-se modelos de regressão logística ordinal relacionando a dor às variáveis individuais e ao trabalho e modelos de regressão logística multinomial relacionando os níveis de risco à variabilidade das tarefas executadas pelo trabalhador. Resultados: (1) Avaliação da dor miorarticular. Identificou-se que para os monofuncionais a ocorrência de dor mioarticular pode estar interligada ao tempo de serviço. Para os multifuncionais, os resultados sugerem além do tempo de serviço, o histórico de doenças relacionadas ao trabalho. Todavia, averiguou-se que para o tempo de serviço, o monofuncional demonstrou ser mais vulnerável a dor em períodos de tempo de exposição aos riscos menores do que o trabalhador multifuncional; (2) Avaliação do nível de risco. Das atividades realizadas pelos monofuncionais, 14% apresentam risco aceitável; 12,3%, muito pequeno; e 73,7% possuem risco potencial para DORT (10,5%, leve; 36,8%, médio; e 26,4%, elevado). Quanto ao conjunto de atividades realizadas pelos multifuncionais, 10,5% estão dentro do limite de aceitabilidade; 8,8% possuem um risco muito pequeno; 80,7% apresentam risco potencial para DORT (10,5%, leve; 54,4%, médio; e 15,8%, elevado); (3) Modelagem matemática conforme o tipo de trabalho. Constatou-se que para os monofuncionais as variáveis representativas abrangeram tempo de ciclo (OR=0,92; p=0,0075) e número de ações realizadas pelo membro superior esquerdo dentro deste ciclo (OR=1,21; p=0,0044). Já para os multifuncionais, a variável com efeito significativo foi a média ponderada do índice OCRA referente ao membro superior esquerdo (OR=1,22*102; p=0,0076). Ademais, verificou-se significância quanto à amplitude de 8 movimento empregada, uso de luvas e exigência de precisão na execução das atividades, sugerindo que tais fatores podem estar associados à exposição do multifuncional ao risco para DORT (p<0,05). (4) Modelagem matemática conforme o nível de multifuncionalidade. Os resultados foram relevantes para os trabalhadores do primeiro nível de treinamento multifuncional (OR=6,76*10-2; p=0,0431). Conclusões: Conclui-se que (1) os trabalhadores demonstram mais susceptibilidade às dores mioarticulares quando realizam apenas uma função; (2) as atividades desempenhadas por ambos os trabalhadores possuem um risco representativo para DORT, com uma tendência de risco médio a elevado para os monofuncionais e médio, para os multifuncionais; (3) para os monofuncionais há indícios de que níveis mais elevados de risco estão associados ao ciclo da atividade; (4) para os multifuncionais há evidências de que níveis mais altos relacionam-se com o requerimento excessivo ou inadequado do membro superior esquerdo pela combinação de atividades; (5) Especificamente, para os multifuncionais aspectos cinesiológicos e as características das atividades podem estar interligados ao desenvolvimento de DORT; (6) os multifuncionais em estágio inicial de treinamento estão expostos a riscos para DORT menores quando comparados aos que trabalham há mais tempo em um mesmo conjunto de funções; e (7) multifuncionais que realizam uma combinação de até 30% do total de atividades intracelular aparentam estar menos expostos ao risco para DORT do que os multifuncionais que executam uma combinação de atividades maior.

No longo caminho para a consolidação da abertura comercial brasileira a defesa comercial teve seu papel relegado quase sempre ao segundo plano. Ainda assim, houve o momento em que as medidas antidumping se tornaram parte fundamental da política comercial brasileira. Com o crescimento do número de medidas impostas, a exposição da política comercial exterior brasileira era inevitável. Portanto, a pesquisa procurou descrever a relação que a aplicação de medidas antidumping no Brasil mantém com seu propósito original. Mas o que faz de um país protecionista, ou melhor, quais elementos fariam do Brasil um país mais ou menos protecionista quando o tema são as medidas antidumping. Nesse sentido, a tese defendida diverge dos principais estudos e foi bem sucedida em demonstrar que apenas os números e modelos genéricos não são capazes de explicar um comportamento setorial específico. Dentro da abordagem proposta, a adição de um estudo de caso tornou possível uma fuga do método convencional de pesquisa dessa área e foi decisivo para lançar luz sobre a complexidade que envolve a aplicação do Acordo Antidumping. Conforme os resultados apontaram, percebemos que parece haver mais elementos que apontam o contrário do que os números dizem. Primeiro, o Brasil não reúne reclamações contra sua política de aplicação de direitos antidumping, uma vez que as reclamações no Sistema de Solução de Controvérsias se concentraram em condenar as políticas de crédito e fiscais, leia-se subsídios. Outro ponto de contato foi a modernização do marco que regula as investigações contra práticas desleais, com o estabelicimento de procedimentos mais detalhados que diminuiram a margem discricionária da autoridade investigadora. A criação de um Grupo de Interesse Público e a adoção do princípio do menor direito (lesser duty) como regra, caracterizam uma conduta reconhecidamente liberalizante. Uma outra hipótese protecionista foi afastada, uma vez os resultados apontaram que as importações do Brasil dependem muito pouco do câmbio. Portanto, surgiu algo como a “falácia do câmbio”, uma vez que ela é uma explicação consolidada para o fenômeno como um todo, mas sem poder de explicar um caso específico. Quando estudado à luz do caso dos calçados, o câmbio teve muito menos contribuição que a renda, sendo praticamente inexpressivo para determinar o comportamento da importação de calçados da China. Outro ponto ressaltado, foi a presença do efeito desvio de comércio na direção de outros exportadores, caracterizando uma postura de defesa mas não protecionista. Esses pontos quando reunidos ressaltam que a defesa comercial não visou as importações como um todo, mas apenas o produto objeto do dumping uma vez que o mercado deixado pelos chineses foi absorvido pelos demais exportadores. Finalmente, pela reação dos produtores e importadores domésticos, com a criação do MOVE enquanto movimento de resistência, entendemos que a concorrência dos calçados esportivos foi a fonte do problema. / In the long way towards the Brazilian trade opening consolidation, the role of trade defense has been frequently put aside. Even though, there has been a moment in which anti-dumping measures have become a fundamental aspect of the Brazilian trade policy. Given the growing number of measures imposed, the exposure of the Brazilian foreign trade policy was inevitable. Hence, the research has looked for describing the relationship that the application of anti-dumping measures in Brazil maintains with its original purpose. However, what does make a country protectionist; or even better, which elements would turn Brazil into a more or less protectionist country when anti-dumping measures are the subject. In this sense, the thesis diverges from the main studies, and it has succeeded in showing that just numbers and generic models are not able to explain a specific sectoral behavior. Within the proposed approach, the addition of a case study has conveyed to an escape from this area's conventional research method, and it was decisive in order to enlighten the complexity that surrounds the Anti-dumping Agreement application. As the results have shown, it was perceived that more elements seem to exist, showing the opposite from the numbers. Firstly, Brazil does not collect complaints against its anti-dumping rights application, once the complaints in the Dispute Settlement Understanding have focused on condemning credit and fiscal policies; meaning subsides. The modernization of the mark that rules investigations against unfair practices has been another point of contact, through the establishment of more detailed procedures, which have reduced the discretionary margin of the investigative authority. Both the creation of a Group of Public Interest and the adoption of the lesser duty principle as a rule, characterize a conduct recognized as liberalizing. Another protectionist hypothesis was pushed away, once the results have shown that Chinese importations by Brazil depend very little on the exchange rate or the industry cycle. Therefore, something like “exchange fallacy” has arisen, what is a consolidated explanation to the phenomenon as a whole; however it cannot explain a specific case. When analyzed under the footwear scope, exchange has had a much lower contribution than income, been nearly irrelevant in determining the behavior of shoe importation from China. Another highlighted aspect has been the trade deviation effect towards other exporters, characterizing a non protectionist defense position. When reunited, these points emphasize that trade defense did not aimed importations as a whole, but only the product that is an object of dumping, once the market left by the Chinese has been absorbed by other exporters. Finally, given the producers and domestic importers reaction, through the creation of MOVE as a resistance movement, it is this research understanding that the imported competition on sports footwear was the core of it all.

O impacto ambiental relacionado à exploração de recursos naturais, às emissões de carbono, mudanças climáticas, pegada ecológica e nível de desenvolvimento humano pode ser considerado um problema decorrente do fluxo linear de produção-consumo. Reconhecer a necessidade de mudança é importante, e investigar formas de viabilizá-la deve ser o objetivo dentro da Engenharia de Produção. Por isto esta pesquisa tem foco no estudo de iniciativas reais de desenvolvimento de produtos ambientalmente amigáveis e de seus resultados frente ao conceito cíclico berço ao berço (Cradle to Cradle - C2C)1, tratado como estratégia e/ou meta no desenvolvimento de produtos e processos produtivos. O conceito berço ao berço postula que produtos e seus componentes devem ser criados para, ao final de seu uso, serem reutilizados com suas propriedades não desgastadas, como nutrientes tecnológicos no chamado metabolismo tecnológico, ou então voltarem à natureza como nutrientes biológicos e não como poluentes, através do metabolismo biológico. Adota-se o conceito berço ao berço como aglutinador de vários outros conceitos discutidos dentro de diversas áreas do conhecimento, como engenharia, desenho industrial e arquitetura. O trabalho aplicado foi realizado por meio da análise da cadeia calçadista, visando estudar as iniciativas ambientais atuais. Este setor tem características similares a vários outros, tais como alcance global, considerável impacto ambiental e economico, centralização da manufatura e complexa cadeia produtiva e de distribuição. São apresentados estudos de casos em empresas no Brasil e nos Estados Unidos, dois países em que as empresas têm modelos de negócios distintos em relação ao desenvolvimento e produção do calçado. As iniciativas ambientais estudadas mostram que há ênfase principalmente no projeto do produto, para enfrentar os problemas ambientais mais proeminentes da insdústria calçadista, os quais se enquadram dentro das cinco principais áreas envolvidas no conceito e avaliadas na certificação berço ao berço, como toxicidade de materiais e processos produtivos, fim de ciclo de vida, consumo de água e energia e responsabilidade social. As metas e os resultados alcançados variam de acordo com as particularidades associadas ao modelo de negócio, público alvo e nicho de mercado de cada empresa. / Environmental issues related to the exploitation of natural resources, carbon emissions, climate change, ecological footprint and human development can be considered problems originated by the current linear production-consumption structure. Recognizing the need for change is essential, and investigating ways to make such transformations possible is a key objective in Industrial Engineering. The present work focuses on the study of relevant sustainable product development initiatives and of their results from a perspective based on the cyclic cradle to cradle (C2C) concept, used as a strategy and/or goal in product development and production processes. The cradle to cradle concept postulates that products and their components must be created so that, at the end of the service life, they can be reused without loss of quality as technological nutrients, in a process referred to as technological metabolism, or instead returned to the environment as biological nutrients and not as pollutants, in a process known as biological metabolism. The cradle to cradle concept is adopted as an umbrella under which a number of other related concepts discussed in several fields, such as engineering, industrial design and architecture, can be found. The applied work has been conducted in the footwear industry, in order to study current environmental initiatives. This industry has characteristics that are similar to many other sectors (e.g., global reach, large economic and environmental impact, centralized manufacturing, complex supply chain and distribution networks), and a few companies have developed pioneering efforts to transform their production processes, focusing mainly on product design and starting with the evaluation of the more prominent problems facing their products, each dealing with the particularities associated with individual business models, target audience and market share. Case studies have been performed on footwear companies located both in Brazil and in the United States, two countries with markedly different business models regarding the development and production of this kind of product. Most initiatives do involve the main areas highlighted in the cradle to cradle approach – namely materials use and reutilization, water use, energy consumption and social responsibility – even though companies may follow different strategies to tackle the problems, with varying levels of implementation and results obtained.

A dinamização do processo de globalização, no final do século XX, impulsionou o comércio entre as nações e contribuiu para o acirramento da concorrência internacional. O setor industrial como um todo, para manter-se competitivo, precisou formular e implementar estratégias inovadoras. Assim, as empresas brasileiras produtoras de calçados, a partir da década de 1990, tiveram de se reestruturar. O objetivo desta dissertação é analisar as formas de reestruturação empresarial e as mudanças de posicionamento estratégico das empresas da indústria calçadista brasileira, diante da intensificação dos problemas de competitividade sistêmica e da concorrência internacional, principalmente, asiática. O referencial teórico utilizado procurou elucidar os fundamentos e conceitos relativos aos fatores determinantes da competitividade, as estratégias empresariais e as teorias relativas à organização industrial e às cadeias globais de valor. Além da utilização de dados secundários, realizou-se uma pesquisa de campo junto às empresas e lideranças do setor. A pesquisa de campo teve caráter exploratório, sendo que a coleta de dados priorizou a observação direta intensiva e extensiva. Os resultados dessa investigação indicaram que as principais mudanças concretizadas devido à nova dinâmica concorrencial foram as seguintes: as empresas orientaram a sua produção de calçados para o mercado nacional, buscaram novos mercados consumidores externos e priorizaram investimentos nas áreas de P&D e pesquisas de mercado com foco para a produção de mercadoria diferenciadas (melhorias no design) e de maior valor agregado. Em relação às dificuldades enfrentadas pela indústria calçadista, na concorrência internacional, foram destacadas as condições sistêmicas da economia brasileira com ênfase para os elevado custos tributários, salariais e de infraestrutura. / The intensification of the process globalization in the late twentieth century, boosted trade among nations and contributed to increased international competition. The industrial sector as a whole, to remain competitive, had to formulate and implement innovative strategies. Thus, Brazilian companies producing shoes from the 1990s, had to restructure. The objective of this dissertation is to analyze the forms of business restructuring and the changes in companies' strategic positioning of the Brazilian footwear industry, faced with the intensification of the problems of systemic competitiveness and of international competition, mainly Asian. The theoretical framework tries to elucidate the fundamentals and concepts of the determinants of competitiveness, corporate strategies and theories on industrial organization and the global value chains. In addition to using secondary data, we carried out a field research together the businesses and industry leaders. The field research was exploratory in nature, and the data collection prioritized direct observation intensive and extensive. The results of this investigation indicated that the major changes implemented due to new competitive dynamic are as follows: companies directed their production of footwear for the domestic market, foreign consumers sought new markets and prioritized investments in R & D and market research with focus on the production of differentiated goods (design improvements) and higher added value. Regarding the difficulties faced by the footwear industry in international competition, have been highlighted systemic conditions of the Brazilian economy with emphasis on higher tax costs, salaries and infrastructure.