Thesis (MA (VA)(Visual Arts))--University of Stellenbosch, 2009. / The purpose of the thesis is to contextualise my art works in theoretical terms. As counterpart to my art practice and consistent with its subject matter, the thesis deals with the handbag as subject and investigates the formation of an idiomatic, metaphorical or symbolic visual language that emerges in my handbag Collections. The thesis traces how such language pertains to social, cultural and personal history as sources of its conception to also serve as foundation for the conception of my art works. Its central questions are formulated around ‘how’, thus investigating the formative, the developmental and the process. Its thinking is relativist, embracing the belief that no option is absolute, but rather as susceptible to change as it is open to interpretation. As events of change and change inducing events, developmental processes are posed in a framework of generative structuralism that comprises the internalisation of externalities and the externalisation of internalities. As such it structures an attempt to define the genesis of my aesthetic idiolect in and from a cultural context. The thesis therefore posits its secondary aims as investigative rather than determinist of how social and cultural context informs my art-making processes and how generation and development occur in my art-making processes in order to determine how these factors contribute to a personal voice becoming evident in my work. My art practice and art works serve as primary sources of information and the thesis partially serves as a process of textual re-articulation of my own art-making practices to reveal the relationships between habitus as generative structure, enaction of identity and aesthetic idiolect.

Thesis (MA (VA))--Stellenbosch University, 2012. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: This thesis investigates the manner in which the function of jewellery (in both the wearing and owning of it) is complementary to the value, meaning and definition of jewellery. The function of jewellery can be regarded as two-fold, consisting of both a physical and social function. The physical function of a jewellery piece entails the way in which it is worn and the manner in which the piece is utilised. The social function of jewellery is not only the status or identity that the jewellery represents, but also how jewellery can symbolise and stimulate relationships. An investigation of the physical function of jewellery is undertaken by deconstructing archetypical jewellery pieces. This illustrates what characteristics define an object as a jewellery piece and show how some archetypical jewellery pieces may appear to be seemingly universal, timeless and natural. The social function of jewellery is investigated by considering the relational aesthetics of jewellery and thus showing how jewellery can testify and give rise to relationships. This study also sheds light on the way in which contemporary jewellery can question value systems. The research includes the designing, making and discussing of contemporary jewellery. The primary research for the thesis is formed by a discussion of my art pieces and is supported by theoretical research. In the conclusion of this study it is clear that jewellery can assume multiple definitions and meanings. These definitions and meanings are not only determined by the designer and maker of the jewellery piece, but also by the wearer/ owner and the viewer as well as the context within which the jewellery piece is worn or displayed. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: In dié tesis word daar ondersoek ingestel oor hoe die funksie van juweliersware (in beide die dra en besit daarvan) die waarde, betekenis en definisie van juweliersware aanvul. Die funksie van juweliersware kan beskou word as tweevoudig en bestaan uit beide ’n fisiese- en ’n sosiale funksie. Die fisiese funksie van ʼn juweelstuk behels hoe dit gedra word en hoe die juweelstuk funksioneer. Die sosiale funksie van juweliersware word nie net beskou as die status of identiteit wat juweliersware voorstel nie, maar ook hoe juweliersware verhoudings simboliseer en stimuleer. ‘n Ondersoek na die fisiese funksie is uitgevoer deur argetipiese juweliersware te dekonstrueer. Só word daar gewys watter soort eienskappe ʼn voorwerp as ʼn juweelstuk definieer en hoe sekere argetipiese juwele as skynbaar universeel, tydloos en natuurlik voorkom. Die sosiale funksie van juweliersware is ondersoek deur te kyk na die estetiese verwantskappe van juweliersware, en só te wys hoe juweliersware kan getuig en aanleiding gee tot verhoudings. In die studie word daar ook uitgelig op watter wyse kontemporêre juweliersware waardesisteme kan bevraagteken. Die navorsing behels die ontwerp, maak en bespreking van kontemporêre juweliersware. Die bespreking van my kunswerke vorm die primêre navorsing van die tesis en word ondersteun deur teoretiese navorsing. Na afloop van die studie is dit duidelik dat juweliersware veelvoudige definisies en betekenisse kan aanneem. Dié betekenisse en definisies word nie net bepaal deur die ontwerper en maker nie, maar ook deur die draer/ eienaar en toeskouer asook die konteks waarin die juweelstuk gedra of vertoon word.

We live in a very busy world with a variety of sensory stimulation including the olfactory, visual, tactile, and auditory. The five senses are triggered by our surroundings and help us to form meaning about the world.ⅰ Based on where someone grows up, she or he is introduced to various sites and sounds, affecting how they interpret the world. Sounds relate meaning through the association between hearing, memory and an event. Hearing is one of the learning processes, in which individuals give, receive, and store information. We typically rely on our five senses, which contribute to the process of understanding, communicating, and comprehending information. Moving beyond visual perception requires systematic attention to individual learning modalities.ⅱ Sound is one of the developing areas in the field of perception that moves beyond vision to help people understand nature, objects, narratives and varieties of perception. In order to comprehend how people hear, it is important to understand the role of perception. Sound functions as a signal, but also varies according to the capacity to hear. An individual’s physical ability to hear, and their unique experiences with sound, differ from one person to the next, and can result in a range of emotions and reactions. Certain sounds, like the voice of a loved one, also have the power to trigger emotion and convey meaning due to the association between hearing, memory and specific events from one›s past In short, the three aspects of sound perception–signal, hearing, and emotional reaction–play an integral role in auditory perception and the subjectivity of sound. However, the value of sound is often taken for granted or viewed as secondary to visual perception. This thesis will explore the value of sound perception by investigating two of its primary aspects–hearing and emotional response–in application to memory. Through a series of experiential objects, that trigger the senses. The aim is to utilize design to memorialize precious sounds in order to raise awareness about the emotional value of sound to the human experience.

Past training as an athlete has driven me to reach for the unattainable goal of flawlessness. This mentality, which I apply to jewelry making, has led me to recreate the intricate angles of the athletic body and the beauty of its movements. I use gymnastics imagery within my work as a tool to communicate how we learn and understand through practice and repetition. With shifted lines, skewed shapes and geometric wirework, the jewelry tumbles over the architecture of the wearer’s body. The repetitive metal forms come together to simulate movement and enhance the physical language that a body in motion can suggests.

[pt] O mundo dos produtos, como as jóias, perfumes, alimentos ou automóveis, não escapa da necessidade de uma contínua renovação e antecipação. A pesquisa de tendências, enquanto observadora da sociedade e seu contexto econômico-político-cultural, torna-se essencial para o design no desenvolvimento de produtos. Esta dissertação propõe a construção de uma fundamentação teórica para a conceituação das tendências de moda e design, a atuação do pesquisador, a prática das pesquisas de tendências e sua relevância na orientação estratégica do design. Apresenta, também, a importância do design dentro do gerenciamento estratégico das empresas e algumas iniciativas que contribuíram para a consolidação do design de jóias brasileiro e suas mudanças de paradigmas, como o impacto da industrialização, a valorização do conteúdo simbólico na concepção e consumo das jóias, a aproximação das jóias com a moda e o fortalecimento da joalheria de arte. Por último, apresenta a contribuição do Caderno de Tendências de Jóias para a atualização e sucesso do design de jóias brasileiro no Mundo. / [en] The world of products, as jewels, perfums, foods or automobiles, doesn´t escape of a continuous renovation and anticipation necessity. Trends forecast while observing of the society and its economic-political- cultural context becomes essential for design in the products development. This dissertation considers the construction of a theoretical fundamentation for the fashion and design trends conceptualization, the forecaster´s performance, the trends forecasts practice and its relevance in design strategical orientation. It also presents the importance of design inside the strategical management of the companies and some initiatives that had contributed to the consolidation of the brazilian jewellery design and its paradigms changes, as the impact of industrialization, the symbolic content valuation in the jewels conception and consumption, the approach of jewels and fashion and the strengthening of art´s jewellery. Finally, presents the brazilian Jewellery Trendsbook contribution for the update and success of brazilian jewellery design in the World.

I feel something on the INSIDE of my body, a feeling of nagging worry. It is an emotion equally important as every other emotions we humans have. But the feeling of worry is very complex as it may come in different shapes and sizes, and how much it affects us differs from person to person. For some people thoughts of worry escalates and becomes overwhelming which causes an emotion of anxiety which in turn could lead to a panik attack. In my exam project and my artistic presentation I focus on that emotion of anxiety when you panic and you loose control. The reason for this emotion could be many but I am interested in how expectations and demands both from ourselves, others and society leads to us trying to keep it all together, stay in control and/or wanting to show an OUTSIDE that everything is fine.  Through social media, internet and commercials we are all exposed to information which tells us how to achieve ”the perfect life” and images of people having an eventful life. All of this creates expectations. In society today worry and anxiety are emotions that are connected to something negative and is often seen as a weakness. In our attempt to hide the emotion of worry and anxiety we communicate to the people on the outside that everything is fine, by for example using jewelry, make-up and clothes to show a beautiful facade almost like putting on a shield before we go outside to meet the world. Why do we do that? And for whom? I chose the necklace as the traditional piece of jewelry to symbolize beauty, stability and to communicate to people that you have everything under control and that everything is fine. The necklace  becomes part of the facade that will stand for beauty, tradition and a measure of prosperity. This is what you show on the outside of the body but on the inside that is where you hide away your worries and anxiety which is built up due to expectations. Expectations which in time will be too many and too much for you to handle, the same as with anxiety. One part of my artistic presentation is to try and visualise how these expectations are put upon you while you are trying to control them and at the same time show off a stable and beautiful outside. But no matter how hard you try to communicate that everything is fine and trying to keep everything together, in the end, what you feel on the inside of the body will seep out to the outside. I am making a attempt to show how this eventually makes you loose control. The beautiful necklace is impossible to sustain which also makes me question my own traditional view of what a necklace is. Another part of my artistic presentation is about value and to make objects that could be used as conversation pieces to start a dialog about worry and anxiety. The materials I am using symbolises the feeling when anxiety takes control of your body and staines the individual. The aim of this exam project is to raise thoughts about a complex emotion, norms in society, and to investigate what a necklace is or could be. Jewelry is a way of communicating with other people and one way to show who you are or whom you want to be. As a contemporary art jeweller I am exploring my topic in a conceptual way.

Anxiety is a common and often stigmatized condition. Destigmatizing mental disorders can positively impact people’s interaction and communication with others and can prompt conversations in which people share their experiences with mental health, leading to improved societal understanding and perception. My design solution tackles behavioral symptoms of anxiety, specifically two conditions that fall under obsessive-compulsive behavior: Dermatillomania and Trichotillomania. By redesigning women’s jewelry to specialized accessories, my intention is for these objects to help destigmatize these conditions and relieve symptoms of maladaptive behaviors and hurtful impulses. By redirecting these irresistible urges to an external artifact, the objects are designed to help the user tactfully and harmlessly manage symptoms while at the same time satisfying the user’s impulse.

La plupart des études portant sur le bijou au XIXe siècle privilégient l’aspect stylistique et formel. La question des usages est, quant à elle, le plus souvent éludée et les rares considérations d’ordre social ou sociétal, lorsqu’elles sont abordées, demeurent anecdotiques. Or, le bijou joue un rôle social déterminant, notamment dans l’expression de la fortune mais aussi dans le processus d’identification et d’appartenance à un groupe. À cet égard, les périodiques de mode constituent un support d’étude des plus précieux. Ils nous renseignent sur l’usage très codifié que les femmes appartenant à l’élite faisaient de leurs bijoux, et implicitement sur la place et le rôle qui étaient assignés à ces dernières dans la société du XIXe siècle. Le périodique de mode constitue par ailleurs une source très intéressante pour contextualiser la création du bijou, qui devient dès lors un miroir des événements. Le bijou apparaît comme le reflet d’influences diverses, à la fois du point de vue technique, du choix des matériaux employés, du style adopté, des formes ou encore par la symbolique des décors travaillés. Grâce aux descriptions de bijoux contenues dans les chroniques de mode ainsi qu’aux gravures qui les accompagnent, nous retracerons une histoire des formes en discriminant les grandes tendances récurrentes entre 1820 et 1870 avant d’aborder celles qui caractérisent une période en particulier. Nous exploiterons aussi les mentions publicitaires afin d’examiner les relations qu’entretiennent les différents acteurs participant à la fabrication et au commerce des bijoux avec les phénomènes de mode. / Most studies regarding 19th-century jewellery favour the study of its stylistic and formal aspects. As for its uses, they are most often eluded and the rare social and societal considerations, when they are tackled, remain anecdotal. Yet, jewellery plays a determining social role, especially in the expression of wealth but also in the process of identification and of belonging to a group. For this, fashion periodicals constitute a most precious support for study. They tell us about the very codified use women from the elite made of their jewellery, and implicitly of the place and role that was assigned to them in 19th century society. The fashion periodical is also a very interesting source to contextualise the jewel creation, which thus becomes a mirror of events. Jewellery appears as a reflection of various influences, all at once from the technical point of view, the choice of materials, the chosen style, the form or the symbolism of the worked designs. Through the descriptions of jewellery contained in fashion chronicles and engravings that accompany them, we shall retrace a history of forms by categorising the great trends recurring between 1820 and 1870 before dealing with those characterising one particular era. We shall also use advertisement notices in order to examine the relationships linking the different actors that participate in the making and marketing of jewellery with the fashion phenomena.

Submitted by Renata Lopes (renatasil82@gmail.com) on 2017-07-19T12:18:56Z No. of bitstreams: 1 anamariadoresbernardocuvaca.pdf: 1256292 bytes, checksum: 4b658a65a999025394370fe4b78b9cf0 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2017-08-09T11:58:17Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 anamariadoresbernardocuvaca.pdf: 1256292 bytes, checksum: 4b658a65a999025394370fe4b78b9cf0 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-08-09T11:58:17Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 anamariadoresbernardocuvaca.pdf: 1256292 bytes, checksum: 4b658a65a999025394370fe4b78b9cf0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-05-11 / Este trabalho teve como objetivo avaliar, usando técnicas espectrométricas a lixiviação de metais de bijuterias em diferentes soluções extratoras. A técnica de espectrometria de massas com fonte de plasma acoplado indutivamente (ICP-MS) foi usada inicialmente para fazer uma varredura nos extratos de quatro soluções para verificar os metais que estavam sendo lixiviados. O planejamento 23 com triplicata no ponto central foi empregado de modo a estudar os parâmetros de lixiviação. Os parâmetros escolhidos foram temperatura (26º C), tempo de 24 h, pH 5,0 (solução 3) e pH 7,5 (solução 1). Após isto, os parâmetros escolhidos foram aplicados para a lixiviação de Cd e Pb em cinco amostras de bijuterias. Amostras de bijuterias de mesmo lote também foram digeridas para a determinação do teor total de Cd e Pb. As soluções resultantes da lixiviação e da digestão das cinco amostras de bijuterias foram analisadas utilizando a técnica de espectrometria de absorção atômica com forno de grafite (GF AAS). As amostras de bijuterias digeridas continham de 1,96 x 10-6 a 3,74 x 10-6 % m/m de Cd e 1,24 x 10-6 a 1,60 x 10-6 % m/m de Pb. Os extratos lixiviados continham de 9,96 x 10-8 a 1,48 x 10-6 % m/m de Cd e <LD a 8,65 x 10-6 % m/m de Pb. Os limites de detecção foram de 2,9 x 10-11 % m/m para Cd e 1,2 x 10-10 % m/m para Pb obtidos por espectrometria de massas com fonte de plasma acoplado indutivamente (ICP-MS); 5,5 x 10-6 % m/m para Cd e 1,9 x 10-5 % m/m para Pb obtidos por espectrometria de absorção atômica com chama (F AAS) e de 2,5 x 10-8 % m/m para Cd e 3,2 x 10-7 % m/m para Pb por espectrometria de absorção atômica com forno de grafite (GF AAS). A curva em meio aquoso foi adequada para as análises, que foi avaliada com estudos de adição e recuperação, em que os valores variaram entre 84-100% e 75-81% para Cd e Pb, respectivamente. Os resultados obtidos pelo método de adição de padrão foram concordantes com os obtidos pela curva externa em 6% para Cd e 0,5 e 1,3 % para Pb nas amostras A e E. Dentre os analitos estudados, o Cd foi o que mais lixiviou e a solução que mais lixiviou foi a solução 1, indicando que este metal se encontrava na forma mais disponível e a possibilidade de ocorrer a lixiviação em soluções com pH entre 6-8. / The aim of this work was to evaluate the leaching of metals in jewelry in different extractive solutions using spectrometric techniques. The inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) technique was initially used to scan the extracts of four solutions to verify the metals being leached. The 23 full factorial design with triplicate at the central point was carried to study the leaching parameters. The parameters chosen were temperature (26 ° C), time of 24 h, pH 5.0 (solution 3) and pH 7.5 (solution 1). After this, the chosen parameters were applied to the leaching of Cd and Pb in five samples of jewelry. Samples of jewelry from the same batch were also digested for determination of the total Cd and Pb content. The solutions resulting from the leaching and digestion of the five jewelry samples were analyzed using the graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (GF AAS). The leached extracts contained from 9.96 x 10-8 to 1.48 x 10 -6 % m/m of cadmium and < LD to 8.65 x 10-6 % m/m of lead. The samples of digested jewelry contained from 1.96 x 10 -6 to 3.74 x 10-6 a % m/m of cadmium and 1.24 x 10-6 to 1.60 x 10-6 % m/m of lead. The limits of detection were 2.9 x 10-11 % m/m for cadmium and 1.2 x 10-10 % m/m for lead in inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS), 5.5 x 10-6 % m/m for cadmium and 1.9 x 10-5 % m/m for lead (F AAS) and 2.5 x 10-8 % m/m for cadmium and 3.2 x 10-7 % m/m for lead in the graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (GF AAS). The curve in aqueous medium was suitable for the analyses, which was evaluated with addition and recovery studies, where values varied between 84-100% and 75-81% for cadmium and lead, respectively. The results obtained by standard addition were similar with those obtained by the calibration curve in 6 % for cadmium and 0.5 and 1.3 % for lead in samples A and E. Among the analyzed analytes, the Cd was the one more leached and the solution that leached more metals was solution 1, indicating that this metal was in the most available form and the possibility of leaching occurred in solutions with pH between 6-8.

Orientador: Maria Izabel Maretti Silveira Bueno / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Quimica / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-23T02:23:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Col_JoseAugustoda_D.pdf: 9318257 bytes, checksum: 54d0d6d3a0ad6811b828d2ca100ea0cf (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013 / Resumo: A técnica de Fluorescência de Raios X (XRF) considera medidas de intensidades e energias características dos raios X emitidos por amostras submetidas à radiação X. É rápida, de baixo custo, não destrutiva e multielementar. Essas características são muito atraentes para amostras da vida cotidiana. Um exemplo apresentado no Capítulo 2 é a análise exploratória da composição elementar de materiais escolares (giz de cera, massa de modelar e tinta guache), que possuem grande apelo junto ao público infantil. Por meio do método de Parâmetros Fundamentais (PF), que corrige teoricamente o efeito interelementar, constatou-se que a maioria dos materiais não apresentava contaminação por elementos tóxicos. Porém, três marcas de guache apresentaram o elemento Br (0,0024 ± 0,0001 a 0,0137 ± 0,0002 g/100g) e uma amostra de giz de cera, Ba (0,138 ± 0,005 g/100g). No terceiro capítulo, a comparação do uso de dois equipamentos de EDXRF (portátil e bancada) ajudou na caracterização de joias e bijuterias (colares, brincos, pulseiras, anéis e piercings), por meio da determinação dos teores dos constituintes metálicos que podem oferecer risco à saúde, como Ni e Pb. Várias amostras apresentaram concentração de Ni suficiente para provocar processos alérgicos, sinalizando a necessidade de cuidados pelas agências da área de saúde. Finalmente, no quarto capítulo, a quantificação de Na e Kem sal de cozinha (refinado, marinho e light) revelou dificuldades do método de PF na quantificação de elementos leves (Z < 22). O uso de um método univariado, baseado na calibração com as áreas dos picos, é uma alternativa possível, ainda que a manipulação de arquivos consuma certo tempo. A quantificação foi realizada com boas correlações tanto para Na (r = 0,974), como para K (r = 0,992). O método multivariado usando Partial Least Square Regression (PLS), com 5 LV, mostrou-se mais rápido. As quantificações de Na forneceram erros de calibração inferiores a 16% e uma correlação de 0,995. A tendência mais preocupante encontrada nas análises foi a possível não redução indicada pela legislação para o teor de Na no sal de cozinha light, que deve ser de 50%. As aplicações apresentadas podem ser realizadas de forma rápida, multielementar e atendendo às especificações da Química Verde / Abstract: X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF) employs measurements of intensities and characteristic energies of x-rays emitted by samples submitted to X-radiation. It is fast, low-cost, non-destructive and a truly multielement analytical technique. These properties are very attractive to be applied to daily life samples. An example is the exploratory analysis of the composition of school supplies (crayons, modeling clays, and gouaches), materials largely employed by children. Through the Fundamental Parameters method (FP), that performs theoretical corrections for the interelement effect, it was observed that most of the samples did not contain toxic elements. However, three gouache brands presented Br (0.0024 ± 0.0001 to 0.0137 ± 0.0002 g/100g), and a crayon sample contained Ba (0.138 ± 0.005 g/100g). In chapter 3, the comparison of two EDXRF devices (portable and benchtop) aimed at monitoring jewelry and bijou (necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets and piercings) through the determination of metals that may be harmful, such as Ni and Pb. Many samples presented Ni concentrations that could trigger allergic processes, clearly indicating the need for a closer monitoring by health agencies. Finally, in chapter 4, the determination of Na and K in table salts (refined, marine and light types) revealed the difficulties of the PF method when working with light elements (Z < 22). An univariate method based on peak areas calibration is an attractive alternative, even though steps of data manipulations might consume some time. Quantifications were performed with good correlations for both Na (r = 0.974), and K (r = 0.992). A Partial Least Square Regression (PLS) method with 5 LV was very fast. Na quantifications provided calibration errors lower than 16% and a correlation of 0.995. Of great concern was the observation of high Na+ levels in light cooking salts, a type consumed mostly by hypertensive patients. The presented applications may be done in a fast and multielement fashion, in accordance with the Green Chemistry specifications / Doutorado / Quimica Analitica / Doutor em Ciências