This master's report addresses the conceptual and material investigations that were explored within my artistic research made at the University of Texas at Austin between 2011 and 2014. These works are a confluence of adornment, sculpture and installation art. These pieces incorporate ancient and contemporary metalworking techniques with raw, organic material. The notion of elegant ornamentation is expanded beyond the body into the adornment of architecture. The potential for transformation and reinvention within found elements is explored within this work. The natural resources I work with have gone through a cycle, which is interrupted when the objects are removed from the earth. I see my process in relationship to alchemical concepts of transmutation. Through manipulation, common matter evolves into precious material. The refined, meticulous craftsmanship conveys a sense of reverence and honor towards the common material. This intervention with the material is an act of preservation and veneration. This work explores my sense of intrigue about the extraordinary potential of mundane materials, and investigates conventional notions of material value. / text

近十幾年來，消費者對於精品與珠寶的追求與擁有已不像過去，單純只是富有的象徵與富人的專屬附屬品，在行銷人豐富的包裝之下，精品與珠寶已成為生活品味與質感的代表，而天然寶石資源日趨減少，供需不平衡而產生的價格變動也使珠寶儼然成為近年來熱門的投資標的。本研究即以精品珠寶為主要研究目標，欲研究台灣精品珠寶市場之消費者行為。 本研究以大台北地區具有購買精品珠寶意願或實力之對象發放問卷，共回收有效問卷325份，並以此問卷結果進行人口統計變項與購買動機、訊息來源、評估準則、購買意願、風險知覺與購買行為之間的關係，並探討各變數之特質與各變數之間的關係與影響，最後以量化結果與質化訪談作為本研究對於精品珠寶市場之消費者行為行銷策略之建議。 本研究分析結果如下: 一、人口統計變項與購買動機、訊息來源、評估準則、購買意願、風險知覺與購買行為之間皆有不同構面的影響，且有些變項影響程度具有高低的差別。 二、精品珠寶之購買動機、訊息來源、評估準則與購買意願，以及購買意願與購買行為間皆有顯著相關性並具有顯著影響。 三、購買精品珠寶之風險知覺對於購買意願與購買行為不具有干擾效果。 四、最後以質化訪談加強上述量化分析結果並提出未來行銷策略建議。 關鍵詞：消費者行為、購買意願、知覺風險。 / For the last decades, the intesion of consumers’ pursue of the luxury goods and jewelry was not simply the symble of the richness like before. With all the emotional attachments the marketers creacted, luxury good and jewelry have represented the high class of living style. And also because the nature resources of gem is getting less and leass, the price raises based on the higher demand and less supply, which are also the reason why the jewelries have become the popular target to invest. The perpective of this study is to figuring out the customer behavior of the jewelry market. The questionnaires of this study were submitted to the potential customers of luxury jewelries in Taipei City. Total 325 effective copies were collected. And based on the questionnaires results, the connection between the purchase motivation, information source, evaluation, purchase intention, perceived risk and purchase behavior can be studied. Moreover, interviews with two jewelry brand managers to deeply disucss the future strategy. Keywords：Luxurious Jewelry, Consumer Behavior, Purchase Intention, Perceived Risk.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-03-05T18:57:21Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 30 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Esta dissertação tem como temática principal as políticas públicas e iniciativas privadas de apoio a aglomerações produtivas, a qual é desenvolvida através de evidências empíricas do arranjo gaúcho de gemas e jóias. Para tanto, valendo-se do conceito neo-schumpeteriano de arranjos produtivos locais (APL), foram resgatados alguns aspectos relacionados à promoção de aglomerados produtivos, além da experiência brasileira na formulação de políticas com este foco. Ademais, caracterizou-se o arranjo de gemas e jóias do RS, destacando-se sua estrutura produtiva e institucional, bem como a dinâmica interativa desenvolvida entre os atores. Também foram mapeadas as ações, programas e projetos realizados junto ao APL, tanto no âmbito das políticas públicas, quanto das iniciativas privadas. Por fim, o trabalho sistematiza a avaliação de tais políticas e iniciativas – com base, principalmente, na visão dos beneficiários, ou seja, as firmas. / This work has as main theme public policies and private initiatives to support productive arrangement, which is developed through empirical evidence of south brazilian arrangement of gems and jewelry. In such a way, using evolutionary concept of local productive arrangements (LPAs), some aspects related to promotion of productive arrangement had been rescued, besides brazilian experience in politics formulation with this focus. Moreover, the RS arrangements of gems and jewelry was characterized being distinguished its productive and institutional structure, as well as interactive dynamic developed between the actors. Also actions, programs and projects realized next to LPA were mapped, in public politics as private initiatives. Finally, the work systematizes the evaluation of such politics and initiatives – based, especially in view of beneficiaries, i.e. firms.

[pt] A madeira é o material biológico mais conhecido e utilizado como matéria-prima desde os primórdios da humanidade até os dias atuais. Como um compósito natural e renovável, seu tempo de vida útil é limitado pela degradação de seus elementos básicos. Essa degradação pode ser ocasionada por reações químicas ou por agentes biológicos capazes de acelerar o processo de deterioração. Esse trabalho teve como objetivo avaliar, sob condições laboratoriais, características mecânicas, térmicas, microestruturais e de biodeterioração em sistemas estáticos de 3 espécies de madeiras - Pupunha (Bactris gasipaes, Kunth), Pau-Brasil (Caesalpinia echinata) e Imbuia (Ocotea porosa) - com o objetivo de utilizá-las em projetos de design de jóias. Como resultado, foi observado que a pupunha obteve menor perda de massa após ensaio de abrasão, menor teor de umidade absorvida e mostrou resistência a degradação em temperaturas mais elevadas. O pau-brasil apresentou melhor desempenho visual quando analisado no MEV após ensaio de abrasão, maior índice de cristalinidade e menores valores referentes a ataques de fungos, formação de biofilme e/ou qualquer variação causada por substâncias agressivas. A imbuia foi a espécie que sofreu visualmente maiores alterações microestruturais, apresentou elevados valores quanto ao teor de umidade, aumento da rugosidade após ensaio de abrasão, maior contaminação por fungos e crescimento bacteriano; provavelmente por ser a espécie mais porosa dentre as analisadas. / [en] Wood is the best-known and biological material used as raw material since the dawn of mankind until the present day. As a natural and renewable composite, its lifetime is limited by the degradation of its basic elements. This degradation can be caused by chemical reactions or by biological agents capable of accelerating the process of deterioration. In this work, mechanical, thermal, micro-structural characteristics and bio-degradation characteristics in static systems of 3 species of woods - Pupunha (Bactris gasipaes), Pau-Brazil (Caesalpinia echinata) and Imbuia (Ocotea porosa) - were studied under laboratory conditions in order to use these woods in jewelry design. The results obtained show that pupunha had less loss in mass after abrasion test, less absorbed moisture content and showed higher resistance to thermal degradation. Pau-brazil showed better visual performance when analyzed in SEM after the abrasion test, the highest crystallinity and lower values for fungus attacks, bio-film formation and/or any variation caused by aggressive substances. Imbuia was the species that suffered visually major micro-structural changes; presented higher values for the moisture content and increase of roughness after abrasion test and greater contamination by fungi and bacterial growth. This behavior was probably due because Imbuia is the most porous species among the analyzed ones.

Reconfigured found objects shape scenes of everyday life, questioning the structural histories that go into defining an identity. Engaging in a multidisciplinary approach of making, my work reimagines the function of ornamentation and its relationship to the body. I approach new materials and found objects with the eye of a jeweler, highlighting and exploiting the subtle, and often invisible, links between material histories and their connection to identity. Material debris patinated with age like skillets, baseballs, and furniture are used to penetrate normative structures around identity, gender, and sexual desire. Using adornment as a support in my installations I propose a new lens for viewing function through the use of ornamentation. In doing so I highlight the bodie’s impact on objects, and call into to question the role these objects play in shaping our understanding of identity—An identity that is never singular, constantly evolving, and more often than not contradictory and confusing.

Introdução - A cadeia de produção de semijoias e bijuterias em Limeira é responsável por um processo produtivo complexo que, chega ao domicílio residencial e, gera trabalho infantil e adolescente. Graves problemas de saúde podem surgir para as famílias que produzem semijoias e bijuterias dentro de casa, além dos riscos ocupacionais e de acidentes. Objetivo - Compreender o aprendizado expansivo coletivo de modo a possibilitar a colaboração e a integração entre os diferentes atores da rede de sistemas de atividades da COMETIL - Comissão Municipal de Erradicação do Trabalho Infantil e Adolescente de Limeira. Método - Coleta de dados utilizando entrevistas, reuniões, oficinas de apresentação, observações da atividade. Posteriormente, utiliza-se o método Laboratório de Mudanças (LM), que se apoia na Teoria da Atividade Histórico Cultural e na Aprendizagem Expansiva, para a compreensão das atividades interinstitucionais da COMETIL, com gravação e filmagem das sessões para análise. Resultados - Divididos em 2 artigos e 1 capítulo de livro. No primeiro artigo, as hipóteses são de que contradições existentes no sistema de atividades da cadeia produtiva não permitem transpor o desafio de sustentabilidade da cadeia, aumentando a precarização do trabalho e os riscos à saúde e segurança das famílias que, por não encontrarem outra alternativa, produzem semijoias e bijuterias em casa. No segundo, apresenta-se uma análise dos resultados do LM que permitiu elevar o nível de agência transformativa entre os participantes da COMETIL, além de fornecer visualização das ações com a elaboração de novos instrumentos de trabalho. No terceiro, evidencia-se que a agência transformativa efetiva-se através da compreensão de que há necessidade de atuação coletiva e integrada, entre instituições públicas e privadas, confirmando o processo de aprendizagem expansiva desencadeado pelo método. Conclusão - O LM permitiu visualizar que a COMETIL pode ser entendida como uma plataforma ou um macro sistema de atividades e que possibilita novos processos organizacionais de ações das instituições públicas de erradicação e controle do trabalho infantojuvenil junto a este setor produtivo de semijoias e bijuterias. / The costume jewelry production chain in Limeira is responsible for a complex production process that gets the residential homes and creates child and adolescent labor. Consequently, severe health problems can emerge for families that produce costume jewelry inside their houses, besides the occupational risks and accidents. Objective - To understand the collective expansive learning towards the collaboration and the integration between the actors of the activity systems of COMETIL - Committee for Eradication of Child Labor and Adolescent Work Protection of Limeira. Methods - Data collection using interviews, meetings, introductory workshops, and observations of activity. Subsequently, the Change Laboratory (CL) method, based on the Cultural-Historical Activity Theory and the Expansive Learning, was carried out to comprehend the interorganizational activities of the COMETIL with video recording for analysis. Results - These are divided into two papers and one book chapter. In the first paper, the hypotheses are that the existing contradictions in the activity systems of the production chain do not allow to meet the sustainability challenge, increasing the precariousness and the health and safety risks for families that are forced to produce costume jewelry at home because of an absence of other choices. The second text presents the analysis of the CL results that promoted the transformative agency among the COMETIL participants and provided the visualization of actions with the elaboration of new work instruments. The third paper supports that the transformative agency becomes effective through the comprehension of the need for a collective and integrated action between public and private institutions, confirming the learning expansive process resulting from the method. Conclusions - The CL allowed visualizing that the COMETIL can be understood as a platform or a macrosystem of activities and it promoted a new organizational process of actions of public institutions of eradication and monitoring the child labor with this costume jewelry production sector.

Este estudio trata de los ritos, costumbres y gustos en las diferentes fases de la vida de los individuos de Murcia y Cartagena durante los reinados de Carlos III y Carlos IV y del tipo de posesiones a las que tuvieron acceso en lo relativo al vestido, el adorno y el modo de decorar y amueblar la salas de recibir de las viviendas. Artículos indispensables para abordar en qué medida impactaron las modas y usos extranjeros en una sociedad en que la apariencia y la sociabilidad se convirtieron en requisitos indispensables para exhibir lo que se quería demostrar ante los demás. Aspectos que ahondan en la cotidianeidad e identidad de los antiguos pobladores de dos ciudades pertenecientes al mismo Reino con semejanzas y diferencias entre sí en una etapa de cambios y permanencias, de modernidad y tradición. / This study deals with the rituals, customs and tastes in the different phases of life of individuals from Murcia and Cartagena during the reigns of Carlos III and Carlos IV and with the kind of belongings which they had access to as regards clothing, adornment and how to decorate and refurnish the receiving rooms of the houses. Articles necessary to address the extent of the impact if foreign fashions and customs in a society where the appearance and sociability became prerequisites to show off what they wanted to demonstrate to others. Aspects that delve into the everyday and identity of the ancient inhabitants of two towns belonging to the same kingdom with similarities and differences among them in a time of change and permanence, of modernity and tradition.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-12T20:17:55Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 118604.pdf: 5890822 bytes, checksum: d70b354d67e20081b2cad602742a22c8 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-07-30 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Surveying sociodemographic, morpho-anthropometric characteristics in women, related to their habits and product preferences wearing earrings, aiming to verify the relationship of these domains with the perception of discomfort. Discomfort was assessed using descriptors. The earlobe thickness and earring dimensions used by the participant on the day of data collection were measured with a digital micrometer, universal caliper and a digital scale. The ear and earlobe shape and the earring hole were classified according to the literature. 208 adult women, were surveyed separated by age groups. Parametric data are presented as mean and standard deviation and non-parametric as frequency distributions. The correlations between the variables were then verified. 80.3% women answered that they wear earrings on a daily-basis and all individuals reported some degree of discomfort, from slight (13.6%), to moderate (26.9%) or severe (59.1%). The average earlobe thickness was 5.80 ± 0.83 mm (left). 58% of the lobules were classified as dettached, and 42% as attached (left). The most widely used type of earring was the stud type, followed by the dangling type and at last the hoop. 77.7% wore earrings that weighed between 0.1 g to 2.5 g on the day of data collection. We conclude that for this sample, the discomfort in the use of earrings is mainly related to product characteristics. The mass and then the material were more associated with discomfort in the use of earrings. Ergonomic recommendations and opportunities for improvement are then presented. / O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a relação das características sociodemográficas, morfoantropométricas, dos hábitos relacionados ao uso e da preferência quanto ao tipo de produto com a percepção de desconforto no uso de brincos em mulheres. O desconforto foi avaliado por meio de descritores. A espessura dos lóbulos, e dimensões do brinco utilizado pela participante na data da coleta foram medidos com mícrômetro digital, paquímetro universal e balança digital. A forma geral da orelha externa, do lóbulo e o furo foram aferidos de acordo com a literatura. Foram pesquisadas 208 mulheres maiores de idade, separadas por faixa etária. Os dados paramétricos foram descritos por média e desvio padrão, os não-paramétricos por distribuições de frequências. Foram ainda testadas as correlações entre as variáveis. 80,3% da amostra usa brincos todos os dias e todos os indivíduos se enquadraram em algum nível de desconforto leve (13,6%), moderado (26,9%) ou grave (59,1%). A média da espessura do lóbulo foi 5,80±0,83mm (esquerdo). 58% dos lóbulos foi aferida como solto, e 42% como preso (esquerdo). O tipo de brinco mais usado foi o inteiro, seguido do pêndulo e argola. 77,7% usava brincos que pesavam entre 0,1g a 2,5g na data da coleta. Conclui-se que para esta amostra, as questões quanto ao desconforto no uso de brincos são principalmente relacionados às características do produto. A massa do brinco seguida do material foram os aspectos mais associadas ao desconforto no uso de brincos. Por fim são apresentadas recomendações ergonômicas e oportunidades de melhoria.

[pt] As tecnologias digitais de fabricação por adição ou subtração têm em si um potencial ainda inexplorado pela indústria joalheira. Por isso, essa dissertação tem como objetivo avaliar as vantagens técnicas e comerciais que podem incentivar a transformação no seu uso pela indústria de joias, inclusive apontando exemplos de iniciativas internacionais e nacionais, estas últimas centradas no Estado do Rio de Janeiro, assinalando assim as razões de seus sucessos e falhas. Através de uma pesquisa bibliográfica se busca determinar as bases históricas e especificações técnicas dos principais processos de produção tradicionais (técnicas manuais tais como o repuxo, a cinzelagem, a modelagem e fundição por cera perdida, entre outras) e digitais (impressão 3D, escaneamento 3D e modelagem digital), para, nesse contexto, seguir-se à experimentação com as tecnologias mais novas, como forma de se buscar a comprovação da existência do potencial técnico e comercial destas tecnologias para o setor joalheiro fluminense que justifiquem essa inovação. / [en] The digital manufacturing technologies by addition or subtraction of material holds an unexplored potential for the jewellery industry. Therefore, this dissertation aims to assess the technical and commercial advantages that can encourage the transformation of its use by the jewellery industry, pointing out examples of international and national enterprises, the latest centered in the Brazilian State of Rio de Janeiro, thus signalizing the reasons of their successes and failures. Through a literature research this work pursuits the historical foundations and the technical specifications of the traditional manual techniques (such as repoussé, chasing, lost wax casting, among others) and digital manufacturing processes (3D printing, 3D scanning and 3D modelling), for, in this context, experimenting with the newest technologies, as a way to seek evidence of its technical and commercial potential for the jewellery industry in Rio de Janeiro that justifies the innovation.

Si le bijou du dix-neuvième siècle abonde dans de nombreux ouvrages, il faut repenser son intrigue, son lexique et sa poétique. Dans une optique ontologique et grâce à un échange pluridisciplinaire permettant ainsi une ouverture à des processus de partages méthodologiques, cette thèse montre combien le bijou du dix-neuvième siècle est fortement connoté et possède une signification esthétique, sociale, géographique, politique et culturelle qui lui est propre. Cette étude prouve que le bijou tant en signe polysémique qu’en tant qu’ontologie cristallise les inquiétudes et les bouleversements relatifs à son siècle. Il permet de cerner une esthétique, un rapport au monde, au temps qui passe. Il est une clé, une façon d’être au monde, un pôle de compréhension. Il y a donc une interaction créatrice entre l’homme et sa parure. L’homme crée le bijou et le bijou crée l’homme en retour. Grâce à la mise en place d’une approche inédite et originale proposant de voir la bijouterie du dix-neuvième siècle comme une ontologie, le bijou est alors pensé comme un élément à part entière pour comprendre l’homme. Les bijoux ne sont pas là par hasard, ils véhiculent des sens cachés, des codes. Ils sont les référents immuables que cette étude se propose de nous faire découvrir. / If the jewel of the nineteenth century abounds in many works, we must rethink its plot, its lexicon and its poetics. From an ontological perspective and thanks to a multidisciplinary exchange thus allowing an opening to processes of methodological sharing, this thesis shows how much the jewel of the nineteenth century is strongly connoted and possesses an aesthetic, social, geographical, political and cultural significance of its own. This study proves that jewellery, both as a polysemic sign and as ontology, crystallizes the anxieties and upheavals relating to its century. It makes it possible to define an aesthetic, a relationship to the world, to the passing of time. It is a key, a way of being in the world, a pole of understanding. So there is a creative interaction between man and his finery. Man creates the jewel and the jewel creates man in return. Thanks to the implementation of a new and original approach proposing to see the jewellery of the nineteenth century as an ontology, the jewel is then thought as a whole element to understand the man. Jewels are not there by chance, they convey hidden meanings, codes. They are the unchanging referent that this study proposes to make us discover