Garment doffing is recognized as an important element of safety, yet little information exists about doffing. The purpose of this research was to develop a method for kinematic analysis of the doffing process. The specific objectives were to 1) identify the basic critical movements involved in the doffing process of a selected garment style, 2) quantify the movement pattern. and 3) assess the validity of the method and the reliability of the data. To study the movements involved in doffing a nightgown, doffings were recorded by video and WATSMART® (electro-optical) cameras. Relative angular displacement vs. time data were generated from video recordings using the Posture Taxonomy instrument, and from WATSMART recordings using a computer program. The movement experienced by the shoulder and elbow joints were close to the maximum physiologically possible. Twelve critical movements were identified using Roebuck’s terminology. The construct validity of the method was shown to be satisfactory by the convergence of the WATSMART and video position vs. time data. The reliability of the data was assessed in terms of intra- and inter-trial consistency. WATSMART was found to be sensitive enough to discern the differences in consistency due to garment style, subject fatigue, and differing configurations of IREDs. Based on the satisfactory convergence of the data and consistency of the data, it was concluded that using the WATSMART system to kinematically analyze the doffing process was feasible. The degree of fidelity of the garments needs to be established before the method can be adopted for general use, however. / Master of Science

The fit of ready-to-wear clothing is an area of concern for the consumer and the apparel manufacturer. Pants are one of the most difficult artic1es of clothing to fit due to the crotch area. The manufacturer strives to provide the best fit possible, but measurement, and pattern making techniques currently available may not be sufficient to satisfy the fit needs of many of their customers. The purpose of this research was to develop a method for determining the best-fit shape for the crotch seam of men's pants. A measurement method and instrument (flexicurve) for reproducing the crotch shape were developed including identification of the crotch point. Crotch shape reproductions and specific anthropometric measurements were taken from a sample of five subjects. The crotch shapes for each subject (n=3) were aligned on an "x" and "y" coordinate grid using the crotch point and a second reference based on back waist height and a common "x" bar. The shapes were plotted into a load analyzer to establish a data base of "XU and "y" coordinates. Descriptive statistics were used to compare anthropometric data and the standard deviations between shapes within subjects. Crotch shapes were diagrammed using scatter plots. A regression function was modeled to the subjects average crotch shapes to determine the best-fit shape. The method and instrument for crotch shape reproduction seems to have potential, however, were further work needs to be done on the establishment of a second reference point, so that the shapes could be meaningfully analyzed. The best-fit shape differed from the pattern crotch curve, but meaningful analysis was hampered by lack of pre-established, scientifica11y based methods for incorporating ease and style features (such as darts and pleats) being incorporated into the shape of the crotch seam. From this study it has been learned that an instrument can be developed which can identify the crotch point and reproduce the crotch shape for male subjects. Future research needs to be conducted with a larger sample to resolve unanswered questions. / Master of Science

The objective of the proposed research is to develop high performance, low computational complexity resolution enhancement and demosaicing algorithms. Our approach to both problems is to find creative ways to incorporate edge information into the algorithm design. However, in contrast with the usual edge directed approaches, we do not try to detect edge presence and orientation explicitly. For the image interpolation problem, we study the relationship between low resolution and high resolution pixels, and derive a general interpolation formula to be used on all pixels. This simple interpolation algorithm is able to generate sharp edges in any orientation. We also propose a simple 3 by 3 filter that quantifies local luminance transition and apply it to the demosaicing problem. Additionally, we propose a gradient based directional demosaicing method that does not require setting any thresholds. We show that the performance of this algorithm can be improved by using multiscale gradients. Finally, we address the low spectral correlation demosaicing problem by proposing a new family of hybrid color filter array (CFA) patterns and a local algorithm that is two orders of magnitude faster than a comparable non-local solution while offering the same level of performance.

Vårt samhälle är uppbyggt av normer som talar om för oss hur vi ska leva, se ut och bete oss. Många av dessa normer antyder hur en bör vara i förhållande till sitt kön, och ramarna är ofta mycket snäva. Normer kring kön kan återspeglas på många olika sätt, bland annat i design och det vi formger. Detta kandidatarbete undersöker hur genusteoretiska perspektiv kan tillämpas i skapandet av normkritisk mönsterdesign och vad som händer i sambandet däremellan. Genom omvärlds- och diskursanalys undersöker jag i utvalda klädbutiker i en liten svensk stad vad genus i mönster kan vara och belyser hur könsnormer reproduceras i det vi formger. Jag utforskar och reflekterar också kring sambandet mellan mönsterdesign och samhällsmönster, och hur de samverkande reproducerar normer. Med egna gestaltande mönster undersöker jag om genusteori är ett fungerande hjälpmedel och om normkritik fungerar som förhållningssätt i en designprocess för att kunna formge normkritiska mönster. Under undersökningens gång framkommer det att genom identifierandet av mönster kan vi utveckla en djupare förståelse för världen vi lever i och varför den ser ut som den gör, men också att det går att förändra med hjälp av mönster. / Our society is built up by norms that tell us how to live, what to look like and how to act. Many of these norms apply how one should be relative to one’s gender, and the frames for that are often very tight. Gender roles can be reflected in many ways, including in design and what is being shaped. This bachelor thesis examines how gender theoretical perspectives can be applied in the making of norm-critical pattern design and what happens in the relationship between them. Through an external analysis and discourse analysis, I investigate in selected clothing stores in a small Swedish town what gender in patterns can be and highlight how gender standards are reproduced in what we design. I also explore and reflect on the relationship between pattern design and social patterns, and how they co-reproduce norms. With my own pattern design, I investigate whether gender theory is a working tool and if norm criticism serves as an approach in a design process to shape norm-critical patterns. During the investigation, it appears that through the identification of patterns, we can develop a deeper understanding of the world we live in and why it is the way it is, but also that it can change with the help of patterns.

Kraven inom textilindustrin förändras genom åren, förutom senaste modetrenden, funktionella material är plaggets passform en viktig aspekt för kundnöjdhet. Studien skrivs i samarbete med ett modeföretag med inriktning mot fast fashion. Syftet är att undersöka passformsproblem på överdelsplagg för dam med djup halshål både fram och bak. Balans- problem och fel vinkling av halsringningen är ett återkommande passformsproblem på dessa modeller som leverantörerna inte lyckas få till. Problemet är störst på deras ärmlösa afton -klänningar där denna variant av modell tillverkas mest. I denna studie ligger fokuset på att undersöka passformen på aftonklänningar utan ärm för att kunna hitta alternativa passformslösningar som kan vara till hjälp för företaget. Studiens har genomförts i två steg. En förstudie av företagets gamla modeller utfördes i första hand för att kunna identifiera passformsproblemet. Detta har verifieras genom avprovningar på provpersoner med olika kroppstyper/ kroppshållning, för att kunna få en övergripande bild över passformen. Nästa steg sker genom digitalt mönsterkonstruktion för att kunna skapa en förbättrad modell med djup halsringning både fram och bak. Studiens resultat visar att många olika faktorer påverkar passformen. Bland annat placering av insnittet, axelns lutning samt hur halshålet vinklas vid konstruktion har en stor avgörande del för modellens passform. / The demands in the textile industry are changing over the years, besides from the latest fashion trend, functional materials, garment's fit is an important aspect for customer satisfaction. The study is written in collaboration with a fashion company focusing on fast fashion. The purpose of study is to analyze fitting issue on upper body garments for ladies wear with deep neck line front and back. Balance problem and wrong angling of neckline is a recurring fit problem on these models that the suppliers fail to achieve. Most of the fitting problem is on their sleeveless evening dresses where this type of model is manufactured most. In this study, the focus is on examining the fit of evening dresses without sleeves in order to be able to find fitting solutions that can be helpful to the company. The study approach has been done in two steps. A preliminary study of the company's old models was analyzed to be able to identify fit problem. This has been verified by testing on human body with different body types / posture, in order to get an overall view of the fit. The next step has been through cad based pattern design to be able to create an improved model with deep neckline both front and back. The study's results show that many different factors affect the fit. For instance, placement of the incision, the shoulder slope and how the neckline angles in pattern making is crucial for the fit of the model.

In today’s society, a lot of norm creative books exists. But none of which are made as the one created through this project. To make something be seen as normal through the public eye, you first have to write about it as if it already was seen as normal. This was shown in interviews and a survey. So that is how the book Ensamma i Liberia was made. The book is illustrated, written and layouted by Elina Mikkola in her master thesis at Luleå Technical University in the Graphic design - bachelor degree. In this project, it also got shown just how important cultural patterns can be, not just for individuals, but also for our whole society. This is because of the importance of understanding others and how that help the fight against segregation. / I dagens samhälle existerar det många normkreativa böcker, men ingen likt den som skapats genom detta projekt. För att få någonting att ses som normalt i allmänhetens ögon, så måste man först skriva om det som om det redan var sett som normalt. Detta togs fram genom intervju samt enkät, och är hur boken Ensamma i Liberia är skapt. Boken är illustrerad, författad och layoutad av Elina Mikkola som hennes examensarbete på Luleå Tekniska Universitet i programmet Grafisk design - konstnärlig kandidat. I detta projekt så har det också visats hur viktiga kulturella mönster kan vara, inte bara för individer, men även för samhället i helhet. Detta på grund av den stora vikten i att förstå andra och hur det kan hjälpa till att motverka mot segregation.

Ett mönster är uppbyggt av ett motiv som upprepas. Denna upprepning kan fortsätta i all oändlighet. Hållbar antyder långsiktighet. Mönstrets övergripande egenskap är oändlighet. Hur kan denna egenskap hos mönstret nyttjas inom mönsterdesign för att främja hållbar utveckling? Det här kandidatarbetet undersöker mönsterdesignens möjlighet att verka för hållbar utveckling genom att se till begreppet mönster ur ett bredare perspektiv, samt i relation till design för hållbar utveckling. Insikter från den teoretiska delen av arbetet tillämpas i en gestaltande produktion vilket resulterar i ett mer omfattande sätt att se på mönsterdesign. Arbetets ryggrad är utgångspunkten att delar bildar en helhet – liksom droppar bygger ett hav - vilket kräver en vidgning av designprocessen och dess värden i en mer hållbar riktning. --- A pattern consists of a motif that is repeated. This repetition can be continued indefinitely. Sustainable suggest long-term. The overall capacity of patterns is infinite. How can this characteristic of the pattern be used within pattern design to promote sustainable development? This bachelor thesis examines the opportunity of pattern design to promote sustainable development by looking at the term pattern from a broader perspective, and in relation to design for a sustainable development. Insights from the research in the theoretical part of this thesis is applied in a formative production, resulting in a more comprehensive way of looking at pattern design. The backbone of the thesisis is the basis that parts form a whole – drops create a sea – which requires an extension in a more sustainable direction of the design process and its values. / Detta är en reflektionsdel till en digital medieproduktion.

Corona pandemin fortsätter in i 2021 och den svenska kollektivtrafiken fortsätter att ta resenärer till sina destinationer. Den svenska strategin för hantering av pandemin har varit attl åta individerna själva ansvara för att hålla nere smittspridningen genom social distansering, och om möjligt jobba hemifrån med färre kollektiva resor (Ludvigsson 2020). Genom att individer själva ansvarar för att hålla smittan nere är det individen själv som ansvarar för sina val i kollektivtrafiken. Ett digitalt verktyg som Västtrafik kan användas som lösning för att nå ut till resenärer för att påverka deras resval och bidra till hantering av trängseln i Västra Götalandsregionen. När företag vill påverka sina användares handlingar subjektivt används ett strategiskt tillvägagångssätt som kallas för mörka designmönster. Det är ett sätt att manipulera en användares handlingar. Vi skribenter av den här studien är nyfikna på om mörka mönster går att implementeras för ett gott syfte och därmed påverka resenärers resvanor. Val av undersökningsmetoder till den här studien är en kvalitativ metod med 6 deltagare, 3 män och 3 kvinnor i åldrar 30 - 65 år och en litteraturgenomgång med verktyget HKR Summon. Studiens resultat visar att hantering av färg, form och kontrast uppfattas olika och kan bidra till olika användarupplevelser. / As the COVID-19 pandemic carries into 2021, the Swedish public transportation system continues to take its passengers to their destination. Unlike most countries, the Swedish approach to the pandemic has been to put the individual in the driver’s seat and thereby making each citizen personally responsible for keeping the spread of infection down. Eitherthrough social distancing, ordering takeaway and if possible, work from home with fewertrips on public transportation (Ludvigsson 2020). In other words, it is up to each individual tomake responsible choices when it comes to their behavior in the public space. This includesthe use of public transportation. There are several ways in which companies can influence user behavior, one of which is the use of dark patterns. This approach to design is often used by big corporations to manipulate their consumers to act in favor of the company. By the implementation of specific design features, users are manipulated to act in a way that they would not otherwise have done. Although this method is often criticized as being unfair towards the user, dark patterns are undoubtedly effective in it’s objective to create a positive outcome for the company in question. This study aims to evaluate whether a design pattern such as this can be implemented in a way in which it could have a positive impact on people’s habits traveling with public transportation. By implementing dark patterns in a digital tool such as the Västtrafik app, this method can be used to influence choices in travel that contribute to better management of congestion throughout the Västra Götaland region. Selection of survey methods for this study is a qualitative method with six participants, three men and three women aged between 30 and 65 years and a literature review with the tool HKR Summon. The results of this study show that through certain handling of color, shape and contrast is perceived differently and can be made to contribute to different user experiences.