Under de senaste två decennierna har konsumtionen av nyproducerade kläder ökat med närmare 30 procent per person i Sverige. Den ökade konsumtionen har medfört att individers klädavfall blivit mer omfattande och många gånger slängs klädesplagg som fortfarande kan användas i hushållets restavfall även om andra alternativ är bättre. Med utgångspunkt i detta och tidigare forskning som visar att unga människor är en högkonsumerande grupp undersöker föreliggande studie hur studenter vid Jönköping University som är bosatta i Jönköpings kommun hanterar sitt klädavfall. Med en webbaserad enkätundersökning samlades data in för att ta reda på vilka av klädavfallsmetoderna secondhand, textilåtervinning, återförsäljning, ge till familj och/eller vänner och restavfall som målgruppen använder samt vad som motiverar deras val att använda dessa klädavfallsmetoder. Genom att utgå från teorin om bunden rationalitet och tematiskt analysera svaren på enkätens öppna frågor visar resultatet hos studiens 73 respondenter att valet av klädavfallsmetod är komplext och i många fall begränsas av omständigheter. Sådana omständigheter beskrivs av studiens respondenter som bland annat brist på tillgänglighet, tid och information. Resultatet visar också att valet av klädavfallsmetod många gånger inte enbart handlar om att göra sig av med sitt klädavfall på ett smidigt sätt. För vissa fungerar klädavfallsmetoderna även som ett sätt att generera extra intäkter eller för att hjälpa andra människor. En kunskap om och förståelse för varför klädavfallsflödena ser ut som de gör kan vara behjälpligt för såväl regeringar som kommuner i pågående arbete för ett mer cirkulärt samhälle. Senast januari 2025 ska nämligen alla EU:s medlemsländer uppfylla direktivet 2018/851 om avfall som bland annat innefattar krav på separat insamling av textilier. / Over the past two decades, the consumption of new clothing has increased by almost 30 percent per person in Sweden, which has also caused individual's clothing waste to become more extensive. Clothes that are still wearable is often disposed of in the household's residual waste. With this in mind, and with previous research showing that young people are considered a high- consuming group, this study aim to investigate how students at Jönköping University, who live in Jönköping municipality, handle their clothing waste. The empirical data was retrieved with a web-based survey to investigate which of the clothing disposal methods secondhand, textile recycling, private resale, giving to family and/or friends, and residual waste that are used by the target group and how they justify their choice of clothing disposal method. Through a thematic analysis of the open-ended questions in the survey, as well as through using the theory of bounded rationality, the results show that the choice of clothing disposal method is complex since it many times is limited by circumstances. Among the study’s 73 respondents, such circumstances turned out to be, among other things, a lack of accessibility, time, and information. Furthermore, the result shows that for some of the respondents the choice of clothing disposal method is not solely about getting rid of the clothes in a comfortable way. For some, clothing disposal is also about earning some extra money or about helping others. Knowledge and understanding of why clothing waste is handled the way it is and ends up where it ends up can be helpful for governments as well as for municipalities in their ongoing work for a more circular society. By January 2025, all EU member states must comply with the EU Directive 2018/851 on waste which among other things targets the need for a separate collection of textiles.

Informal markets for fashion are a growing phenomenon around the world and more specifically in the Democratic Republic of Congo. In different cities in the Democratic Republic of Congo, there are tents housing vendors who sell second-hand clothes. These markets are becoming the millennials' shopping hubs as millennials are on a quest for uniqueness, fashion trends and value for money. Limited research regarding the shopping patterns and purchase decisions of Congolese millennials and even less regarding the informal clothing market in the Democratic Republic of Congo is available. This research is aimed at investigating factors influencing millennials in the purchase of second-hand clothes in the informal markets in the Democratic Republic of Congo. The theoretical framework was guided by the theory of planned behaviour from which the researcher constructed an adapted model. The purchase of secondhand clothes is the behaviour that is preceded and influenced by the consumer's intention to purchase. In turn, the intention to buy clothing from informal markets is influenced by various factors. Five factors were added to the model, namely quality, clothing interest, peers' opinions, price consciousness and the need for uniqueness. The model was investigated through a qualitative case study analysis. The data was collected through face-to-face interviews and the thematic analysis was conducted and interpreted manually. The target population argued that second-hand clothes are unique, durable and affordable. These clothes allow them to shop the fashion trends they see on social media from around the world. Thus, it is important to have a valuable understanding of the factors influencing Congolese millennials to buy second-hand clothes. Retailers and marketers in the fashion industry of the Democratic Republic of Congo, particularly those in the informal clothing market, can consider the consumer insights acquired in this research and apply them to increase their advantage in the market place.

Textilindustrin är ett stort miljöproblem i dagens samhälle och hög efterfrågan på nyproducerade kläder bidrar till miljöpåverkan. Ett resurseffektivt sätt att vara mer miljövänlig är att återanvända kläder, vilket kan göras genom andrahandsmarknaden. På grund av ett begränsat herrklädesutbud handlar unga män sällan i second hand-butiker. Studien syftar därför till att undersöka hur ett kommunikationskoncept kan utformas för att göra fler unga män villiga att donera kläder till second hand. Denna studie resulterade i kommunikationskonceptet Garderobsrensningsdagarna. Konceptet tar sig uttryck i form av en insamlingskampanj som belyser garderoben, då grundproblemet ligger i att målgruppen inte rensar sina garderober. Konceptet värderades genom kvalitativa intervjuer. Dessa visade att konceptet bör belysa garderoben som en outnyttjad resurs. Ett miljöfokus bör inkluderas i konceptet samtidigt som ett lättillgängligt inlämningssätt bör erbjudas. För att motivera målgruppen att donera kläder till second hand visade värderingen att konceptet bör skapa en känsla av gemenskap, innehålla ett tydligt mål, en tidsbegränsning samt generera direkt återkoppling. För att skapa ett stort engagemang så bör konceptet väcka uppmärksamhet och på så sätt generera word-of-mouth. / The textile industry is a major environmental issue in today’s society and a high demand fornew produced clothing contributes to the environmental impact. The re-use of clothing is aresource efficient way to be more environmental friendly, which can be accomplishedthrough the second hand market. Because of a limited assortment of men’s clothing, youngmen rarely shop at second hand stores. The study therefore aims to research how acommunication concept could be designed to make more young men willing to donateclothes to second hand stores.This study resulted in the communication concept Garderobsrensningsdagarna. The concepttakes the form of a collection campaign that highlights the wardrobe, as the main problemlies within that the target group are not sorting out their wardrobes. The concept wasevaluated by qualitative interviews. These showed that the concept should highlight thewardrobe as an unused resource. An environmental focus should be included in the conceptat the same time as an accessible way of donating should be offered. To motivate the targetgroup to donate clothes to second hand stores, the evaluation showed that the conceptshould create a feeling of fellowship, include a clear goal, a time limit and generate directfeedback. To create a high level of involvement, the concept should attract attention and sogenerate word-of-mouth.

Recent years have witnessed growing consumer interest in sustainable fashion and circular economy trends that focus on the make, use, and recycling. In several developed countries, consumers are more willing towards second-hand consumption. In India, the consumer attitude towards second-hand shopping has been slightly negative for several reasons. Moreover, India has been subjected to little or no research on consumer behavior. The aim of the study is to examine Indian consumers’ purchasing behavior associated with second-hand fashion in India and Sweden. Therefore, to address this issue and to gain a deeper understanding of consumer behavior while purchasing second-hand fashion, the study employed a qualitative approach combined with a case study research design. The in-depth semi-structured interviews involved fourteen Indian participants living in India and Sweden. The empirical data collected through the interviews were analyzed through thematic analysis, which yielded various themes and sub-themes. Two established frameworks in consumer behavior have been employed in analyzing the themes and sub-themes. The framework developed by Guiot and Roux has been used to confirm the motivational factors towards second-hand shopping. The theory of planned behavior (TPB) framework has been used to understand influential factors on consumer behavior towards second-hand shopping. The Guiot and Roux model analyses three key motivators that persuade consumers to purchase second-hand, which are economic, critical, and hedonic motivators. The theory of planned behavior framework analyses three perspectives of consumers, namely attitude, subjective norms, and perceived behavioral control and its influence on consumer intentions and behavior towards second-hand fashion consumption. The analysis and discussion provide influential factors and barriers towards the purchase intentions of Indian consumers. The study’s findings showed differences in the opinions of Indian consumers living in India and Sweden regarding second-hand consumption in general. While the Indian participants (Non-Buyers) in India refrained from giving second-hand fashion a chance, the Indian participants (Buyers) in Sweden were more open towards second-hand fashion. Different factors affect consumer behavior in different ways; factors like price, purchasing options, quality, and awareness regarding second-hand consumption have a positive influence, whereas factors such as hygiene, fashionability, personal values, and beliefs against second-hand consumption have a negative influence. Based on the findings from the analysis, possibilities to reinforce second-hand fashion consumption in India have also been discussed. Since the study has been conducted in a qualitative way, this paves way for future quantitative verification.

Information-seeking behavior is a mixture of activities and attitudes, oftentimes motivated by an individual's need to make a decision. One underlying element of this mixture is cognitive authority - which sources (e.g., individuals, institutions, texts, etc.) can be trusted to fulfil the information needs? In order to gain insight into the dynamics of cognitive authority selection behavior which is an information seeking behavior, this study explored primary source text data (316 text records) that reflected selection in the mundaneness of life (advice column submissions and responses). Linguistic analysis was performed on the data using the Linguistic Inquiry Word Count (LIWC2015) software package. Pearson correlation and 1-sample T tests revealed the same 45 statistically significant relationships (SSRs) in the word usage behavior of all subgroups. As a result of the study, the gap in research formed from the lack of quantitative models of cognitive authority relationships was addressed via the development of the Wordprint Classification System which was used to generate a cognitive authority relationship model in the form of a cognitive authority intra-segment wordprint. The findings and implications of this study may provide a contribution to the body of work in the area of information literacy and information seeker behavior by revealing factors that information scientists can address to help meet information seekers' needs. Additionally, the Wordprint Classification System may be used in such disciplines as psychology, marketing, and forensic linguistics to create to create models of various relationships or individuals through the use of written or spoken word usage patterns.

This study addresses the issue of consumers’ wish to shop more sustainable fashion butinstead turning to fast fashion (Islam et al., 2021; Silva et al. 2020; Wang et al., 2022). With that said, this study discusses and examines how marketing benefits the second-hand clothes market in Sweden. Entrenched in market studies of market-shaping, market devices and actor network theory (ANT) (Nenonen et al., 2019; Muniesa et al., 2007; Sayes, 2013), this study depicts the use of market devices in the process of shaping the second-hand clothes market in Sweden. The methodology of the thesis consists of online and offline observations throughout Arkivet’s four market devices: in-store, digital media, website and e-commerce. The results show that Arkivet’s market devices reframe the market, the products within it and the interactions between buyers and sellers, which ties in with the factors necessary for market-shaping (discovering value potential and mobilizing resources) (Nenonen et al. 2019). Based on previous market studies and the observations conducted, this study assembles a newly created model representing the role market devices assume in the process of shaping an existing market.

How can we use more of the materials and products that have already been produced? At the second hand shopping mall ReTuna in Eskilstuna, where circular flows are a reality, there are still many products going to waste. This master thesis project explores the possibilities of upcycle and repurpose driven design, and by that adding new value to existing products. The process of doing that is the basis of this report.  ReTuna Återbruksgalleria is a place where people can leave products they do not want or need anymore.Everyday hundreds of products are left for reuse at ReTuna, which is connected to the overconsumptionthat results in copious amounts of second hand products. Much more than can be taken care of in today’s system. The resources put into every product needs to be valued accordingly to what they truly cost and emit.  This master’s thesis project explores how to design within the planetary boundaries by taking care and responsibility for what already is produced. The first phase of the project consists of observations and interviews to get an understanding of how ReTuna works. The framing of the project was decided after the research phase, which resulted in focus on one specific product, dining chairs. The next part of the project involves upcycling workshops, building of prototypes and an exhibition, all with a focus on increasing the value for second hand chairsand giving the material new areas of use. The last part of the project presents a design result, with an approach for involving more repurpose driven design and upcycling within design and product development.

[pt] Esta tese tem como objetivo pensar o livro de segunda mão como objeto material inserido em um circuito urbano. Percorrendo o seu caminho e desenhando um mapa cultural, através de pesquisa de campo, os conceitos de profissão ou ofício, consumo, troca, patrimônio, valor econômico e simbólico, ordem e desordem, raridade, tempo e propriedade são destacados. Abordagens críticas questionam os movimentos de consumo colaborativo e a vinculação do livro velho nos sites de venda online, deste modo uberização do livro é uma expressão criada nesta tese para pensar parte do circuito envolvendo a internet. A cidade é ocupada pelos livros e pelos livreiros em dinâmicas circulares: eles transitam infinitas vezes indo e vindo por lugares conhecidos e circunscritos tradicionalmente; do lixo até o leilão de obras raras. As livrarias são Sebos de alfarrabistas geridas e habitadas por mestres e aprendizes transmitindo o ofício entre familiares; por outro lado, os sebos de rua shopping chão, os das calçadas e das feiras revelam elementos de informalidade e indeterminação econômica e espacial, perseguidos pela administração pública. O livro usado possui marcas das intervenções humanas e circunstanciais – rabiscos, rasgados, colagens, assinaturas, dedicatórias – que lhe conferem os signos de valor. É importante para os membros do circuito identificarem estas marcas para redistribuí-los através da elaboração de descrições e arrumações específicas para cada categoria de livro usado. Bibliófilos são consumidores de livros antigos, livreiros são consumidores de outros livreiros em instâncias diversas, catadores recebem livros daqueles que abandonam e depois vendem para livreiros que oferecem para colecionadores, estes podem abandonar mais uma vez os livros nas ruas ou no lixo, então o ciclo se renova em uma cartografia multissituada. / [en] This thesis aims to think of the second-hand book as material object inserted in an urban circuit. Traversing your way and drawing a cultural map, through fieldwork, the concepts of profession or trade, consumption, exchange, heritage, economic and symbolic value, order and disorder, rarity, time and property are highlighted. Critical approaches question the collaborative consumption movements and the linking of the old book to online selling sites, so book uberization is an expression created in this thesis to think about part of the circuit involving the internet. The city is occupied by books and booksellers in circular dynamics: they travel endlessly to and fro through traditionally known and circumscribed places; from the garbage to the rare books auction. Antiquarian bookstores are inhabited by masters and apprentices transmitting the craft among family members; on the other hand, the shopping chão, sidewalks and fairs (flea market) reveal elements of informality and economic and spatial indeterminacy, pursued by the government. The used book has marks of human and circumstantial interventions - scribbles, torn, collages, signatures, dedications - that give it the signs of value. It s important for circuit members to identify these marks in order to redistribute them through the elaboration of specific descriptions and arrangements for each category of used book. Bibliophiles are consumers of old books, booksellers are consumers of other booksellers in different instances, garbage collectors receive books from those they abandon and then sell to booksellers that they offer to books collectors, they can once again abandon books on the streets or in the garbage, then the cycle is renewed in a multi-sited cartography.

[pt] A indústria têxtil apresenta grande relevância na economia brasileira, ocupando a quarta posição de maior produtor de denim do mundo e a maior cadeia têxtil completa do ocidente, segundo a Associação Brasileira da Indústria Têxtil e Confecção (2018). Por outro lado, trata-se de uma das indústrias mais poluentes no mundo e apresenta cerca de 500 bilhões de dólar ao ano de descarte de roupas não recicladas, de acordo com o relatório da Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). Neste contexto, formas de consumo alternativo têm ganhado força transformando os espaços de brechós em importantes marketplaces para disposição e reuso. A presente pesquisa buscou investigar os significados envolvidos no consumo de vestuário de segunda mão, contribuindo para uma reflexão acerca dos sentidos, crenças e valores que promovem ou restringem escolhas por estes objetos. Os dados foram coletados por meio de observação participante e de entrevistas individuais com dezoito consumidores, em três brechós da cidade do Rio de Janeiro. Foi utilizada a perspectiva teóricometodológica da semiótica discursiva de linha francesa, por meio do modelo da Axiologia do Consumo de Floch (1993), e Análise de Conteúdo para analisar os temas identificados nos discursos dos consumidores. Nos resultados da análise, destacam-se os rituais de consumo e questões relativas à sociabilidade e ao estilo de vida dos sujeitos. Há, também, pontos dissonantes em relação ao conceito de sustentabilidade, indicando oportunidades para marcas e gestores de brechós aperfeiçoarem suas estratégias de negócios sustentáveis. As narrativas dos consumidores alternam e, por vezes, conjugam valores críticos, práticos e utópicos da Axiologia de Floch (1993). / [en] The textil industry has great relevance in the Brazilian economy, occupying the fourth position of largest producer of denim in the world and the largest complete têxtil industry of the west, according to the Brazilian Association of the Textile and Clothing Industry (2018). On the other hand, it is one of the most polluting industries in the world and presents more than 500 billion dollar a year of disposing of non-recycled clothes, according to the report of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). In this context, alternative forms of consumption have gained strength, transforming the thrift store spaces into important marketplaces for disposal and reuse. This research investigated the meanings involved in the consumption of second-hand clothing, contributing to a reflection on the meanings, beliefs and values that promote or restrict some choices for these objects. Data were collected through participant observation and individual interviews with eighteen consumers, in three thrift stores located in the city of Rio de Janeiro. The theoretical-methodological perspective of French discursive semiotics and the model of Axiology of Consumption by Floch (1993) were used to analyze the themes identified in consumers speeches. In the results of the analysis, the consumption rituals and issues related to the subjects sociability and lifestyle stand out. There are also dissonant points in relation to the concept of sustainability, indicating opportunities for brands and managers of thrift stores to improve their sustainable business strategies. Consumer narratives alternate and sometimes combine critical, practical and utopian values from Floch s Axiology (1993).

In second-hand e-commerce, categorization of new products is typically done by the seller. Automating this process makes it easier to upload ads and could lower the number of incorrectly categorized ads. Automatic ad categorization also makes it possible for a second-hand e-commerce platform to use a more detailed category system, which could make the shopping experience better for potential buyers. Product ad categorization is typically addressed as a text classification problem as most metadata associated with products are textual. By including image information, i.e. using a multimodal approach, better performance can however be expected. The work done in this thesis evaluates different multimodal deep learning models for the task of ad categorization on data from Blocket.se. We examine late fusion models, where the modalities are combined at decision level, and early fusion models, where the modalities are combined at feature level. We also introduce our own approach Text Based Visual Attention  (TBVA), which extends the image CNN Inception v3 with an attention mechanism to incorporate textual information. For all models evaluated, the text classifier fastText is used to process text data and the Inception v3 network to process image data. Our results show that the late fusion models perform best in our setting. We conclude that these models generally learn which of the baseline models to ’trust’, while early fusion and the TBVA models learn more abstract concepts. As future work, we would like to examine how the TBVA models perform on other tasks, such as ad similarity. / Produkter som läggs ut på marknadsplatser, såsom Blocket.se, kategoriseras oftast av säljaren själv. Att automatisera processen för kategorisering gör det därför både enklare och snabbare att lägga upp annonser och kan minska antalet produkter med felaktig kategori. Automatisk kategorisering gör det ocksåmöjligt för marknadsplatsen att använda ett mer detaljerat kategorisystem, vilket skulle kunna effektivisera sökandet efter produkter för potentiella köpare.Produktkategorisering adresseras ofta som ett klassificeringsproblem för text, eftersom den största delen av produktinformationen finns i skriftlig form. Genom att också inkludera produktbilder kan vi dock förvänta oss bättre resultat.I den här uppsatsen evalueras olika metoder för att använda både bild och text för annonsklassificering av data från blocket.se. I synnerhetundersökslate fusion modeller, där informationen från modaliteterna kombineras i samband med klassificeringen, samt early fusion modeller, där modaliteterna istället kombineras på en abstrakt nivå innan klassificeringen. Vi introduserar också vår egen modell Text Based Visual Attention (TBVA), en utvidgning av bildklassificeraren Inception v3 [1], som använder en attention mekanism för att inkorporera textinformation. För alla modeller som beskrivs i denna uppsats används textklassificeraren fast Text[2] för att processa text och bildklassificeraren Inception v3 för att processa bild. Våra resultat visar att late fusion modeller presterar bäst med vår data. I slutsatsen konstateras att late fusion modellerna lär sig vilka fall den ska 'lita' på text eller bild informationen, där early fusion och TBVA modellerna istället lär sig mer abstrakta koncept. Som framtida arbete tror vi det skulle vara av värde att undersöka hur TBVA modellerna presterar på andra uppgifter, såsom att bedöma likheter mellan annonser.