Thesis (M. Com. (Economics)) -- University of Limpopo, 2018 / Unemployment is one of the most economically crippling challenges facing South Africa today. The Department of Trade and Industry identified the Textile and Clothing Industry as a labour absorbing industry for many developing countries, including South Africa. However, the capacity of the sector to create jobs in South Africa has been changing. This study therefore aims to examine the probable causes of employment in the textile and clothing industry of South Africa and to propose policy recommendations that to alleviate the unemployment issues in the industry. The determinants of unemployment are analysed using co-integration analysis from an econometric perspective with annual time series data from 1986 to 2016. The study identifies domestic demand, real output, wage rate, and imports as some determinants in the textile and clothing industry. The results suggest that the model is co-integrated at 5% level of significance and there is a long-run relationship between employment and its determinants. For further examination of the relationship between unemployment and its determinants, the study conducted the Vector Error Correction Model and VECM Granger Causality techniques. The model was found to converge back to equilibrium at 0.183 convergence speed. These techniques revealed that the linear model is a good fit, passing both diagnostic and stability tests. The study also conducted the impulse response functions and variance decomposition to assess how shocks to economic variables reverberate through a system. Employment show an increase given positive economic shocks to output and wage rate. The study has recommended subsidization and incentivizing of the industry by government to assist in keeping operational costs low and improve output. For imports, the study suggested a mutual co-operation through joint ventures between South African companies and Chinese firms. South Africa may benefit from the transfer of technology and expertise, increased production capacity and job creation. Keywords: Employment, unemployment, long-run relationship, labour-intensive, demand, output

This research paper focuses on Thailand’s textile and clothing industry since its liberalisation in 1995. The industry used to be the number one generator of export income for Thailand. As exports strongly declined in the late 1990s, the Thai government employed ‘industrial policy’ to reignite the industry in 2003 and 2007. However, the policies have had little effect on the export pattern. We argue that the way government sees the industry is inappropriate and leads to ineffective industrial policy.The research findings illustrate that industrial analysis at ‘macro’ or ‘aggregate’ level is weak and impractical. These high-level analyses do not give policy makers and government a clear understanding of the industry, structure or drivers of performance. Furthermore, we are unable to identify common factors that differentiate well-performing firms from poorly performing firms. The aggregate level data make it difficult for policy makers or government to see what key success factors to focus on in this complex and dynamic business environment. There is no obvious ‘model’ that distinguishes those firms or sectors that do well and grow, against those which do not. So rather than focus on aggregate level, government and policy makers should focus on firm-specific characteristics, strategies or business models that differentiate them from others. Government needs to understand in depth the specific industry structure of the sector and the relationship between key players. This will help it to understand its role and the measures it can use to support the private sector. This new method may consume more time and require better skills and knowledge from researchers and policy makers. The approach requires committed researchers with strong strategic and analytical skills who can divide or dissect the industry into various sub-groups, and policy makers with better mindsets. But most importantly, problematic policy is a result of a fragmented policymaking process that stems from poor economic governance.

O estudo relaciona temas relevantes e atuais: a economia solidária e a indústria têxtil e de confecção inserida no contexto contemporâneo da moda. As propostas da economia solidária vão ao encontro das questões sociais e ambientais, evidenciadas nos últimos anos em decorrência das revelações sobre a precarização do trabalho e a exploração de recursos naturais na cadeia têxtil e de confecção e, sugere uma nova forma de economia, que visa a geração de renda e trabalho. Por outro lado, apresentase relevante observar a aplicação de atributos relativos à construção da moda brasileira, que fazem referência à elementos da natureza tropical e edênica, considerados nesta pesquisa como referências do Mito Fundador. Como um empreendimento econômico solidário atuante na indústria têxtil e de confecção nacional poderia se desenvolver, a partir da identificação e aplicação de atributos da moda brasileira em sua produção? Este estudo propõe identificar atributos identitários relativos ao Mito Fundador que compõe a moda brasileira e verificar a aplicação de tais atributos em empreendimento econômicos solidários do setor de confecção. Para isso, foram realizados estudos de fundamentação teórica sobre economia solidária no Brasil e sua atuação na indústria têxtil e de confecção e sobre a moda brasileira sob a ótica do Mito Fundador, cujos resultados propiciaram a elaboração de sistematizações necessárias à criação de categorias de análise, respectivamente, sobre os temas de Economia Solidária e atributos identitários relativos ao mito fundador que compõe a moda brasileira contemporânea. Os resultados obtidos nas etapas bibliográfica e estudo de campo revelam que os princípios fundamentais da economia solidária estão presentes e regem as ações e decisões de cada empreendimento, sobretudo a ética, o respeito ao meio ambiente e a valorização do trabalhador, porém, ressalta-se como desafio do trabalho solidário concentrar-se em nichos de mercado ainda iniciantes e sem investimentos governamentais. Nos empreendimentos de economia solidária, a elaboração de peças com técnicas artesanais é um potencial de identidade do fazer manual brasileiro que promove os conceitos de economia solidária na parceria do trabalho cooperado de artesãs. A pesquisa conclui ser recomendável a ampliação de parcerias entre empreendimentos de economia solidária, a divulgação organizada para a transmissão de seus principais valores aos consumidores, o investimento governamental em educação e capacitação de trabalhadores e o processo de produção orientado por projetos concebidos com atuação da área de Design de forma colaborativa / The study relates relevant and current themes: the solidarity economy and the textile and clothing industry inserted in the contemporary context of fashion. Solidarity economys proposals meet the social and environmental issues evidenced in recent years as a result of the revelations about the precariousness of labor and the exploitation of natural resources in the textile and clothing chain, and proposes a new form of economy aimed at the generation of income and work to the excluded population. On the other hand, it is relevant to observe the application of attributes related to the construction of the Brazilian fashion that refer to the elements of tropical and Edenic nature, considered in this research as references of the Founding Myth. How could a solidary economic enterprise operating in the Brazilian textile and clothing industry develop from the identification and application of attributes of Brazilian fashion in its production? This study proposes to identify attributes related to the Founding Myth that composes the Brazilian fashion and verify the application of such attributes in solidarity economic enterprises of the clothing manufacturing sector with the intention of presenting development perspectives of solidarity economy in the textile and clothing industry in the current context of national fashion, as sustainable means of growth of the domestic market and participation in the foreign market. The results obtained in the bibliographic and field studies show that the fundamental principles of solidarity economy are present and govern the actions and decisions of each enterprise, above all, ethics, respect for the environment and the valorization of the worker, however, we emphasize the challenge of this work to be restricted to beginning niche markets and lacking government investments. In the solidarity economy enterprises, the elaboration of garments with artisan techniques is a potential of the Brazilian manual making that promotes the concepts of solidarity economy in the cooperative work of artisans. The research concludes that it is advisable the expansion of partnerships between solidarity economy enterprises, the organized dissemination for the transmission of its main values to consumers, government investment in education and training of workers and the production process oriented by projects conceived in the Design area in a collaborative manner

As empresas têxteis e de confecção cada vez mais vem perdendo competitividade nos mercados interno e externo. Elas se encontram em um hiato no mercado global, onde não conseguem competir com os preços praticados pelos países asiáticos nos produtos de menor valor agregado e, dentre os artigos de alto valor agregado, concorrem pelos mesmos mercados com grandes marcas europeias e norte-americanas já consolidadas internacionalmente. Diante deste cenário, considera-se a participação no mercado internacional uma relevante alternativa para a sobrevivência de empresas que enfrentam a competição global, pois competir por mercados mais exigentes capacita as empresas a oferecerem melhores produtos e eleva o nível de inteligência empresarial, ou seja, um ambiente desafiador, característico de um mercado global, contribui para a evolução das empresas. Numa economia globalizada caracterizada pela alta competitividade, qualidade dos produtos e concorrência acirrada, cada vez mais o êxito empresarial depende da capacidade da empresa inovar, principalmente, tecnologicamente, lançando novos produtos no mercado, a um preço menor, com uma qualidade melhor e a uma velocidade maior do que seus concorrentes. A fim de avaliar o quanto as empresas estão preparadas para enfrentarem esta competição e se inserirem cada vez mais no mercado internacional, esta dissertação procurou identificar os fatores formadores de valor presentes nas empresas brasileiras produtoras de têxteis e confeccionados que impactam nos seus desempenhos em inovação para, então, analisar como tal desempenho pode influenciar na competitividade internacional, identificando possíveis gargalos e entraves. Para a obtenção dos resultados foi realizada uma pesquisa de avaliação (survey) com uma amostra de 63 empresas dos segmentos têxteis e de confecção participantes do Programa Texbrasil da Abit, exportadoras e não exportadoras. Para a coleta dos dados, foi elaborado um instrumento de - 7 - pesquisa (questionário estruturado) com base na literatura sobre o tema. Para complementar o trabalho, foi realizada uma etapa qualitativa, a partir de entrevistas semi-estruturadas com especialistas do setor. Os resultados indicam que o desenvolvimento de inovações tem relação positiva com o desempenho da amostra estudada no mercado internacional. As empresas exportadoras estão mais estruturadas em relação à presença de fatores facilitadores para o desenvolvimento de inovações, quando comparadas às empresas não exportadoras. Os testes de regressão linear demonstraram que os aspectos relacionados ao porte das empresas, definição e compartilhamento da estratégia, estabelecimento de parcerias e o lançamento de produtos inovadores são fatores que vem impactando positivamente na participação dessas empresas no mercado internacional. Contudo, elas ainda apresentam práticas incipientes com relação à estrutura de gestão para uma estratégia competitiva baseada em inovações. A baixa qualificação da mão de obra; o pouco conhecimento e uso de regras de propriedade intelectual; a ausência de recursos físicos e financeiros; a baixa atividade de P, D & I, e o pouco conhecimento e uso dos recursos públicos destinados ao apoio a inovação, são considerados entraves para o desenvolvimento de inovações nas empresas estudadas, tanto exportadoras, como não exportadoras, sendo este cenário mais evidenciado nas empresas de menor porte e pertencentes ao elo de confecção. / Brazilian textile and apparel companies are losing more and more competitiveness in domestic and foreign markets. They are on a hiatus in the global market, where they are unable to compete with the prices practiced by Asian countries on lower added value products and, among higher added value items, they are competing for the same markets with major European and North American brands that are already established internationally. In the face of this scenario, participation in the international market is considered to be a relevant alternative for the survival of companies that are facing global competition, since competing for more demanding markets enables companies to offer better products and raise the bar on corporate intelligence; in other words, the challenging environment that is characteristic of a global market contributes to corporate growth. In a globalized economy characterized by high competitiveness, product quality and heated competition, corporate success increasingly depends on a company\'s ability to innovate, especially in technological terms, launching new products in the market faster than its competitors can, at a lower price and with better quality. In order to assess how prepared companies are to take on this competition and mover further and further into the international market, this dissertation sought to identify the value-forming factors found at Brazilian textile and apparel production companies that impact their performance in innovation. Next, an analysis was performed of how this performance could influence international competitiveness, identifying possible bottlenecks and barriers. To obtain results, a survey was applied using a sample of 63 exporting and nonexporting companies in the textile and apparel industries that are members of Abit\'s Texbrasil Program. To collect data, a survey instrument (structured questionnaire) was created based on literature on this topic. To add to this work, a qualitative stage was carried out, based on semi-structured interviews with industry specialists. - 9 - The results indicate that the development of innovations is positively related to the performance in the international market of the sample studied. The exporting companies are more structured in relation to the presence of factors that facilitate development of innovation, as compared to non-exporting companies. Linear regression tests show that aspects related to company size, definition and sharing of strategy, establishment of partnerships, and the launch of innovative products are factors that have had a positive impact on the participation of these companies in the international market. Nevertheless, their practices are still incipient insofar as the management structure is concerned for a competitive strategy based on innovations. The labor force\'s low qualifications; little knowledge and use of intellectual property rules; a lack of physical and financial resources; low R, D & I activities; and little knowledge and use of public resources earmarked for support of innovation are considered to be obstacles to development of innovations at the companies studied, both for exporters and non-exporters, with this scenario being more evident at smaller companies that are part of the apparel chain.

As empresas têxteis e de confecção cada vez mais vem perdendo competitividade nos mercados interno e externo. Elas se encontram em um hiato no mercado global, onde não conseguem competir com os preços praticados pelos países asiáticos nos produtos de menor valor agregado e, dentre os artigos de alto valor agregado, concorrem pelos mesmos mercados com grandes marcas europeias e norte-americanas já consolidadas internacionalmente. Diante deste cenário, considera-se a participação no mercado internacional uma relevante alternativa para a sobrevivência de empresas que enfrentam a competição global, pois competir por mercados mais exigentes capacita as empresas a oferecerem melhores produtos e eleva o nível de inteligência empresarial, ou seja, um ambiente desafiador, característico de um mercado global, contribui para a evolução das empresas. Numa economia globalizada caracterizada pela alta competitividade, qualidade dos produtos e concorrência acirrada, cada vez mais o êxito empresarial depende da capacidade da empresa inovar, principalmente, tecnologicamente, lançando novos produtos no mercado, a um preço menor, com uma qualidade melhor e a uma velocidade maior do que seus concorrentes. A fim de avaliar o quanto as empresas estão preparadas para enfrentarem esta competição e se inserirem cada vez mais no mercado internacional, esta dissertação procurou identificar os fatores formadores de valor presentes nas empresas brasileiras produtoras de têxteis e confeccionados que impactam nos seus desempenhos em inovação para, então, analisar como tal desempenho pode influenciar na competitividade internacional, identificando possíveis gargalos e entraves. Para a obtenção dos resultados foi realizada uma pesquisa de avaliação (survey) com uma amostra de 63 empresas dos segmentos têxteis e de confecção participantes do Programa Texbrasil da Abit, exportadoras e não exportadoras. Para a coleta dos dados, foi elaborado um instrumento de - 7 - pesquisa (questionário estruturado) com base na literatura sobre o tema. Para complementar o trabalho, foi realizada uma etapa qualitativa, a partir de entrevistas semi-estruturadas com especialistas do setor. Os resultados indicam que o desenvolvimento de inovações tem relação positiva com o desempenho da amostra estudada no mercado internacional. As empresas exportadoras estão mais estruturadas em relação à presença de fatores facilitadores para o desenvolvimento de inovações, quando comparadas às empresas não exportadoras. Os testes de regressão linear demonstraram que os aspectos relacionados ao porte das empresas, definição e compartilhamento da estratégia, estabelecimento de parcerias e o lançamento de produtos inovadores são fatores que vem impactando positivamente na participação dessas empresas no mercado internacional. Contudo, elas ainda apresentam práticas incipientes com relação à estrutura de gestão para uma estratégia competitiva baseada em inovações. A baixa qualificação da mão de obra; o pouco conhecimento e uso de regras de propriedade intelectual; a ausência de recursos físicos e financeiros; a baixa atividade de P, D & I, e o pouco conhecimento e uso dos recursos públicos destinados ao apoio a inovação, são considerados entraves para o desenvolvimento de inovações nas empresas estudadas, tanto exportadoras, como não exportadoras, sendo este cenário mais evidenciado nas empresas de menor porte e pertencentes ao elo de confecção. / Brazilian textile and apparel companies are losing more and more competitiveness in domestic and foreign markets. They are on a hiatus in the global market, where they are unable to compete with the prices practiced by Asian countries on lower added value products and, among higher added value items, they are competing for the same markets with major European and North American brands that are already established internationally. In the face of this scenario, participation in the international market is considered to be a relevant alternative for the survival of companies that are facing global competition, since competing for more demanding markets enables companies to offer better products and raise the bar on corporate intelligence; in other words, the challenging environment that is characteristic of a global market contributes to corporate growth. In a globalized economy characterized by high competitiveness, product quality and heated competition, corporate success increasingly depends on a company\'s ability to innovate, especially in technological terms, launching new products in the market faster than its competitors can, at a lower price and with better quality. In order to assess how prepared companies are to take on this competition and mover further and further into the international market, this dissertation sought to identify the value-forming factors found at Brazilian textile and apparel production companies that impact their performance in innovation. Next, an analysis was performed of how this performance could influence international competitiveness, identifying possible bottlenecks and barriers. To obtain results, a survey was applied using a sample of 63 exporting and nonexporting companies in the textile and apparel industries that are members of Abit\'s Texbrasil Program. To collect data, a survey instrument (structured questionnaire) was created based on literature on this topic. To add to this work, a qualitative stage was carried out, based on semi-structured interviews with industry specialists. - 9 - The results indicate that the development of innovations is positively related to the performance in the international market of the sample studied. The exporting companies are more structured in relation to the presence of factors that facilitate development of innovation, as compared to non-exporting companies. Linear regression tests show that aspects related to company size, definition and sharing of strategy, establishment of partnerships, and the launch of innovative products are factors that have had a positive impact on the participation of these companies in the international market. Nevertheless, their practices are still incipient insofar as the management structure is concerned for a competitive strategy based on innovations. The labor force\'s low qualifications; little knowledge and use of intellectual property rules; a lack of physical and financial resources; low R, D & I activities; and little knowledge and use of public resources earmarked for support of innovation are considered to be obstacles to development of innovations at the companies studied, both for exporters and non-exporters, with this scenario being more evident at smaller companies that are part of the apparel chain.

O estudo relaciona temas relevantes e atuais: a economia solidária e a indústria têxtil e de confecção inserida no contexto contemporâneo da moda. As propostas da economia solidária vão ao encontro das questões sociais e ambientais, evidenciadas nos últimos anos em decorrência das revelações sobre a precarização do trabalho e a exploração de recursos naturais na cadeia têxtil e de confecção e, sugere uma nova forma de economia, que visa a geração de renda e trabalho. Por outro lado, apresentase relevante observar a aplicação de atributos relativos à construção da moda brasileira, que fazem referência à elementos da natureza tropical e edênica, considerados nesta pesquisa como referências do Mito Fundador. Como um empreendimento econômico solidário atuante na indústria têxtil e de confecção nacional poderia se desenvolver, a partir da identificação e aplicação de atributos da moda brasileira em sua produção? Este estudo propõe identificar atributos identitários relativos ao Mito Fundador que compõe a moda brasileira e verificar a aplicação de tais atributos em empreendimento econômicos solidários do setor de confecção. Para isso, foram realizados estudos de fundamentação teórica sobre economia solidária no Brasil e sua atuação na indústria têxtil e de confecção e sobre a moda brasileira sob a ótica do Mito Fundador, cujos resultados propiciaram a elaboração de sistematizações necessárias à criação de categorias de análise, respectivamente, sobre os temas de Economia Solidária e atributos identitários relativos ao mito fundador que compõe a moda brasileira contemporânea. Os resultados obtidos nas etapas bibliográfica e estudo de campo revelam que os princípios fundamentais da economia solidária estão presentes e regem as ações e decisões de cada empreendimento, sobretudo a ética, o respeito ao meio ambiente e a valorização do trabalhador, porém, ressalta-se como desafio do trabalho solidário concentrar-se em nichos de mercado ainda iniciantes e sem investimentos governamentais. Nos empreendimentos de economia solidária, a elaboração de peças com técnicas artesanais é um potencial de identidade do fazer manual brasileiro que promove os conceitos de economia solidária na parceria do trabalho cooperado de artesãs. A pesquisa conclui ser recomendável a ampliação de parcerias entre empreendimentos de economia solidária, a divulgação organizada para a transmissão de seus principais valores aos consumidores, o investimento governamental em educação e capacitação de trabalhadores e o processo de produção orientado por projetos concebidos com atuação da área de Design de forma colaborativa / The study relates relevant and current themes: the solidarity economy and the textile and clothing industry inserted in the contemporary context of fashion. Solidarity economys proposals meet the social and environmental issues evidenced in recent years as a result of the revelations about the precariousness of labor and the exploitation of natural resources in the textile and clothing chain, and proposes a new form of economy aimed at the generation of income and work to the excluded population. On the other hand, it is relevant to observe the application of attributes related to the construction of the Brazilian fashion that refer to the elements of tropical and Edenic nature, considered in this research as references of the Founding Myth. How could a solidary economic enterprise operating in the Brazilian textile and clothing industry develop from the identification and application of attributes of Brazilian fashion in its production? This study proposes to identify attributes related to the Founding Myth that composes the Brazilian fashion and verify the application of such attributes in solidarity economic enterprises of the clothing manufacturing sector with the intention of presenting development perspectives of solidarity economy in the textile and clothing industry in the current context of national fashion, as sustainable means of growth of the domestic market and participation in the foreign market. The results obtained in the bibliographic and field studies show that the fundamental principles of solidarity economy are present and govern the actions and decisions of each enterprise, above all, ethics, respect for the environment and the valorization of the worker, however, we emphasize the challenge of this work to be restricted to beginning niche markets and lacking government investments. In the solidarity economy enterprises, the elaboration of garments with artisan techniques is a potential of the Brazilian manual making that promotes the concepts of solidarity economy in the cooperative work of artisans. The research concludes that it is advisable the expansion of partnerships between solidarity economy enterprises, the organized dissemination for the transmission of its main values to consumers, government investment in education and training of workers and the production process oriented by projects conceived in the Design area in a collaborative manner

The aim of this thesis is to explore the development of Swedish fashion between 1930 and 1960 by examining the textile and clothing industry from the wider perspective of fashion production. It was during this period that Sweden was transformed into a leading industrial nation, which laid the foundation for increased prosperity in the post-war period. This historical and empirical study is predominantly based on systematic analysis of Swedish official statistics and close reading of the fashion press. The thesis applies a combination of approaches in the analytical chapters (chapter 2–4) that include three central aspects of fashion production: manufacturing, symbolic production, and the production of a national fashion.  Chapter 2 gives an account of the industrial production of clothing and examines the scope, size and structure of the textile and clothing industry. The results confirm its importance to the Swedish economy in the period. One important finding shows that a shift in production from tailored outerwear to lighter garments occurred as early as the mid-1950s.  Chapter 3 investigates the symbolic production of fashion by looking at the structure of the field of fashion in Sweden. The results show a French dominance where couturiers were celebrated as creative ‘artists’. A significant finding is how the idea of Swedish fashion was considered a process of creating economic value, as in clothing manufacturing.  Chapter 4 deals with fashion as an expression of national culture. The result reveals a significant fashion culture associated with an everyday wear fashion that followed the Social Democratic reforms aimed at equality in society during the period. One important finding is that the wool coat was the hallmark of Swedish fashion identity in the post-war period.  These results contribute to a broader understanding of fashion production and new insights into the history of its developments in Sweden between 1930 and 1960, which has gone largely unrecognised by previous fashion historians.

The work is about development of spain retailing chain in the field of textile and clothing. The goal of work is finding development the company during timeframe and comparing position of company with competitions.

The goal of this thesis is to describe the most important trade policy instruments that have been used in international trade in textiles since the second half of the 20th century, and to deduce the implications of the instruments on the textile sector, mainly the European one. The thesis introduces the classification of instruments in the trade policy used in the international trade in textiles and economic consequences of chosen instruments; brief characteristics of evolution of international trade in textiles since the second half of the 20th century, change in localization and sector structure of the textiles and clothing industry and main trends in its evolution. There are described most important multilateral agreements concerning the trade in textiles: Short-Term Arrangement regarding International Trade in Cotton Textiles, Long-Term Arrangement regarding International Trade in Cotton Textiles, Multifibre Arrangement, Agreement on Textiles and Clothing and current trends in contractual instruments followed by autonomous instruments such as anti-dumping and anti-subsidy measures and particular cases. The thesis includes consequences of the instruments mentioned above. In the last chapter, the trends in the evolution of instruments are summarized and the reflection on possible solutions for the European, and thus also Czech textile and clothing industry, is mentioned.

West Africa’s textile and clothing (T&C) industries have persevered through the decline following the economic liberalization policies in the 1980s. This thesis seeks to explore the sustainable and circular business models which exist in the West African region. It also explores the ways that businesses relate to the social conditions of poverty, a small T&C industry, strong competition from imports, and the concentrated levels of imported textile waste. Through a qualitative methodology, secondary data is collected on thirty T&C businesses in West Africa. These businesses are analyzed through the framework of the eleven sustainable business model (SBM) pattern groups by Lüdeke-Freund, et al. (2018). In the results, five main SBM pattern groups emerge: Supply Chain, Social Mission, Closing-the-Loop, Eco-design, and Cooperative pattern groups. Most of the businesses do not fall neatly into one pattern, but rather embody various hybrid sustainable business models. West Africa is unusual in facing both high poverty rates and textile waste landfills, which may influence the multi-dimensional approach to sustainability. By working with the local textile value chain and artisan communities, the thirty businesses contribute to poverty alleviation. They also pave the way for ‘artisan futurism,’ where handicraft is combined with circularity and eco-design initiatives, leading the West African T&C industry into the future.