A tese pretende articular nomadismo e sustentabilidade através do design. A hipótese visa a confirmar que nomadismo e sustentabilidade estão intimamente relacionados e busca entender de que maneira o designer pode incorporar estes princípios em seu processo de trabalho. Reflete sobre a questão da sustentabilidade, a partir do comportamento nômade, conforme o referencial teórico das contribuições de autores como Bernard Rudofsky, Ezio Manzini, Felix Guatari, Gilles Deleuze, Michel Maffesoli, Paul Zumthor, Robert Kronenburg, Teshome Gabriel, Victor Papanek, dentre outros, sob a ótica do design. A tese inclui resultados de entrevistas, realizadas no Brasil e no exterior, com especialistas e arquitetos que trabalham e vivenciam as temáticas pesquisadas. Contém um levantamento que se refere à identificação e análise de soluções de design para habitar um mundo onde a necessidade de se deslocar tem se tornado cada vez mais recorrente. As propostas para habitações móveis e adaptáveis vão além de categorias usuais, por isso, o design sem fronteiras atravessa os limites entre arquitetura e design por hibridismos que vagueiam entre edifíciosveículos; mobiliárioferramentas; vestuárioequipamentos. Os cinco capítulos são divididos tematicamente nas categorias: Partir; Reconhecer o Local, Conhecer os Outros; Buscar os Recursos; Definir a Duração e Retornar, oferecendo uma chave de leitura sobre a jornada nômade. O objetivo da tese é gerar diretrizes projetuais inovadoras que considerem as formas contemporâneas de vida nômade, respeitando os requisitos ambientais. Estas diretrizes são apresentadas na conclusão, como direcionamento aos designers. / The thesis aims to articulate nomadism and sustainability through design. The hypothesis aims to confirm that nomadism and sustainability are closely related and tries to understand how designer can incorporate these principles in work process. It reflects about sustainability issues and nomadic behavior, accoding to the theoretical referencial of the contributions of authors such as Bernard Rudofsky, Ezio Manzini, Felix Guatari, Gilles Deleuze, Michel Maffesoli, Paul Zumthor, Robert Kronenburg, Teshome Gabriel, Victor Papanek amongst others, under the optics of design. The thesis includes results of interviews, carried through in Brazil and abroad, with specialists and architects who work and experience the thematic searched. It has a survey to identify and to analyze design solutions to inhabit a world where the necessity for dislocation has become more and more recurrent. The proposals for mobile and adaptable dwellings go beyond usual categories, therefore, design without borders crosses the limits between architecture and design to hybrid forms that wanders between buildingvehicles; furnituretools; garmentequipment. The five chapters are divided by theme in categories To go away; To recognize the place, To know the others; To catch resources; To define duration; To go back providing a range of keys for interpretation of the nomadic journey. The goal of the thesis is to generate innovative design directions that consider the contemporaries forms of nomadic life, respecting the environmental requirements. These design directions are presented in the conclusion, as suggestions for designers.

[pt] O estudo investiga a atuação dos pintores-designers das vanguardas modernistas no campo do design têxtil entre 1910 a 1930. Mais precisamente, em suas propostas de defender e incorporar o esforço progressista, econômico-tecnológico da civilização industrial e por outro lado a busca de uma aproximação maior entre as artes consideradas maiores e sua integração à produção econômica. Outrossim, parte da perspectiva de que esses objetos de design podem ser tratados como evidências históricas, como cultura material, e nos podem falar desde a sua concepção, sua comercialização e seu uso, do papel do designer-artista no momento em que a arte atuou no desenvolvimento de bens simbólicos no sentido de produzir riqueza industrial. A outra perspectiva é observar esses designs de têxteis como imagens e neste sentido produtores de conhecimento sobre o contexto social e da época em foram projetados. O estudo questiona a indiferença da História da Arte e do Design em relação a esta produção, além da forma como estão sendo apresentados em exposições como objeto estético, procedimento que deixam de lado um testemunho histórico importante, no momento em que a prática do design e da arte, em conjunto, se aproximou da indústria. / [en] The study investigates the performance of the modernist avant-garde painters in the field of textile design from 1910 to 1930. More precisely, in their proposals to defend and incorporate progressive, economic and technological effort of industrial civilization and secondly the search for a closer between the arts considered major and their integration into economic production, like the decor and clothing. Moreover, part of the hypothesis that these design objects can be treated as historical evidence, such as material culture, and can speak from their conception, their marketing and their use, the role of designer-artist at the time the art served in the development of symbolic goods in order to produce industrial wealth. The other perspective is to look at these as textile designs, as images, and these knowledge producers who speaks sense of social context, and the time they were designed. The study questions the indifference of the History of Art and Design in relation to this production, and the way they are being presented in exhibitions, as mere aesthetic objects. Failure to observe these projects as historical documents, leaves out important evidence of a time when the practice of design and art industry closer together.

This research was part of the Research Line in Education and Arts/ PPGE/CE/UFSM, developed at the Federal University of Santa Maria/RS. The research was contextualized in the formal education, where the research-action was developed at Chácara das Flores Municipal Elementary School, in Santa Maria/RS, with ninth grade students. This research materialized, in general lines, the investigation of critical education practice by using as basis the theoretical ideas of the Printed Textile Design with ninth grade students of ntermediate school. In special, it itended: to identify and to analyse the conception and action of students related with their understanding of Printed Textile Design as a modality; to trace, in colaboration with the students, practical and educative activities with critical view, having as support the learning and perception of pedagogical knowledge-making in a critical view related with printed textile design; to analyse the knowledge of the printed textile design created by the education practice, and the educational possibilities in the learning process by the materialization of printed textile design sketches; to punctuate a critical scholastic educative practice of the printed textile design in the Elementary School. The review of theoretical ideas was based on the following researchers: FREIRE (1975), EFLAND (2005), CARDOSO (2004), DONDIS (1997), REDIG (1976), OSTROWER (1987) and LUBART (2007). The research metodology was organized from qualitative research/action-research, and the instrumental used to collect data were real observations, diary notes, semi-structured interviews with students and their parents, portfolio and documental analysis. The analysis of critical educative practice in Printed Textile Design outlined the research course with the students of the ninth grade of Chácara das Flores Municipal Elementary School. The speeches of the students and their parents propitiated meaningful activities and visual creations related to Printed Textile Design and to the students social and cultural world. By the end of this research, it was verified that the critical educative practice, based on Freire and related with Printed Textile Design, contributed to the Visual Arts teaching because that kind of practice deal with this knowledge (PTD) in a critical configuration, contextualizing and incresing the students culture through an efectively, consciousness and humanizing educative practice. / Esta pesquisa fez parte da Linha de Pesquisa em Educação e Arte do PPGECE/UFSM. A pesquisa foi contextualizada no Ensino formal, tendo a pesquisa-ação ocorrida na Escola de Ensino Fundamental Municipal Chácara das Flores, em Santa Maria/RS, com os participantes/educandos do 9º ano. Esta pesquisa objetivou, em linhas gerais, investigar a prática educativa problematizadora, tendo como fundamento os pressupostos teóricos pedagógicos para a aprendizagem do design de estamparia têxtil com alunos do 9º ano do Ensino Fundamental. Especificamente, objetivou: identificar e analisar a concepção e a ação dos alunos frente à compreensão da modalidade de design de estamparia têxtil; planejar, em colaboração com os participantes da pesquisa, atividades prático-educativas problematizadoras, tendo em vista a aprendizagem e percepção do fazer-saber pedagógico crítico em design para estamparia têxtil; analisar o conhecimento de estamparia têxtil gerado pela prática educativa e as possibilidades pedagógicas no processo de aprendizagem pela materialização dos Projetos de Design de Estamparia Têxtil; e verificar a viabilidade de uma prática educativa escolar problematizadora do design de estamparia têxtil no Ensino Fundamental escolar. Como referencial teórico da pesquisa, foram lembrados os seguintes teóricos: FREIRE (1975), EFLAND (2005), CARDOSO (2004), DONDIS (1997), REDIG (1976), OSTROWER (1987) e LUBART (2007). A metodologia da pesquisa foi organizada a partir de pesquisa qualitativa/pesquisa-ação, tendo sido utilizados os seguintes instrumentos de coleta de dados: observação participante, diário de campo, entrevista semi-estruturada com os pais ou responsáveis e com os participantes da pesquisa, portfólio e análise documental. A análise sobre a prática educativa problematizadora em design de estamparia têxtil delineou o percurso pesquisacional com os participantes/educandos do 9º ano da Escola Municipal de Ensino Fundamental Chácara das Flores. Os relatos dos participantes e dos pais propiciaram atividades e criações visuais relacionadas ao design de estamparia têxtil e significativas ao mundo cultural e social dos educandos. Ao término desta pesquisa, considerou-se que a prática educativa problematizadora freireana em design de estamparia têxtil contribui para o Ensino das Artes Visuais, na medida em que abarca a prática educativa deste campo do saber de forma crítica, contextualizando e ampliando a cultura dos educandos através de uma prática educativa efetivamente crítica, conscientizadora e humanizadora.

A tese pretende articular nomadismo e sustentabilidade através do design. A hipótese visa a confirmar que nomadismo e sustentabilidade estão intimamente relacionados e busca entender de que maneira o designer pode incorporar estes princípios em seu processo de trabalho. Reflete sobre a questão da sustentabilidade, a partir do comportamento nômade, conforme o referencial teórico das contribuições de autores como Bernard Rudofsky, Ezio Manzini, Felix Guatari, Gilles Deleuze, Michel Maffesoli, Paul Zumthor, Robert Kronenburg, Teshome Gabriel, Victor Papanek, dentre outros, sob a ótica do design. A tese inclui resultados de entrevistas, realizadas no Brasil e no exterior, com especialistas e arquitetos que trabalham e vivenciam as temáticas pesquisadas. Contém um levantamento que se refere à identificação e análise de soluções de design para habitar um mundo onde a necessidade de se deslocar tem se tornado cada vez mais recorrente. As propostas para habitações móveis e adaptáveis vão além de categorias usuais, por isso, o design sem fronteiras atravessa os limites entre arquitetura e design por hibridismos que vagueiam entre edifíciosveículos; mobiliárioferramentas; vestuárioequipamentos. Os cinco capítulos são divididos tematicamente nas categorias: Partir; Reconhecer o Local, Conhecer os Outros; Buscar os Recursos; Definir a Duração e Retornar, oferecendo uma chave de leitura sobre a jornada nômade. O objetivo da tese é gerar diretrizes projetuais inovadoras que considerem as formas contemporâneas de vida nômade, respeitando os requisitos ambientais. Estas diretrizes são apresentadas na conclusão, como direcionamento aos designers. / The thesis aims to articulate nomadism and sustainability through design. The hypothesis aims to confirm that nomadism and sustainability are closely related and tries to understand how designer can incorporate these principles in work process. It reflects about sustainability issues and nomadic behavior, accoding to the theoretical referencial of the contributions of authors such as Bernard Rudofsky, Ezio Manzini, Felix Guatari, Gilles Deleuze, Michel Maffesoli, Paul Zumthor, Robert Kronenburg, Teshome Gabriel, Victor Papanek amongst others, under the optics of design. The thesis includes results of interviews, carried through in Brazil and abroad, with specialists and architects who work and experience the thematic searched. It has a survey to identify and to analyze design solutions to inhabit a world where the necessity for dislocation has become more and more recurrent. The proposals for mobile and adaptable dwellings go beyond usual categories, therefore, design without borders crosses the limits between architecture and design to hybrid forms that wanders between buildingvehicles; furnituretools; garmentequipment. The five chapters are divided by theme in categories To go away; To recognize the place, To know the others; To catch resources; To define duration; To go back providing a range of keys for interpretation of the nomadic journey. The goal of the thesis is to generate innovative design directions that consider the contemporaries forms of nomadic life, respecting the environmental requirements. These design directions are presented in the conclusion, as suggestions for designers.

Submitted by Ricardo Cedraz Duque Moliterno (ricardo.moliterno@uefs.br) on 2016-09-06T21:52:27Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Disserta??o Pablo Lu?s dos Santos Portela - PPGDCI.pdf: 2083854 bytes, checksum: 8c858517946ff2bca9099ced306d99db (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-09-06T21:52:27Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Disserta??o Pablo Lu?s dos Santos Portela - PPGDCI.pdf: 2083854 bytes, checksum: 8c858517946ff2bca9099ced306d99db (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-12-08 / The purpose of this study is to introduce the palm, Bahia cultural symbolic element, in a different context from the culinary, and bring it to the area of the textile surface design, by authorial creation of standards in a contemporary language. To this end, it sought theoretical and conceptual support in authors who discuss surface design, textile design, printing, fashion, Bahian culture. He tried to understand the involvement of the pattern into two categories of analysis, which were: language and differentiation; cultural and symbolic device. The character of this research highlighted by the interdisciplinary approach, experimental and qualitative, which provided support throughout the trodden path. The study, to build the methodology of deconstruction and reinterpretation, was to follow, explore, play, interpret the palm from the decomposition of its morphological structure for seven months. This procedure was based on the method of decontextualization and recontextualization of contemporary surface design. To place the palm with the culture, fashion and Bahian art, selected authors and by conducting interviews with artists and designers Bahia. Research has developed a long creative process from the palm that has gone through different stages, experiments and records, such as intervention with the collective participation of students enrolled of discipline Artistic Design of UEFS; palm fixation test on paper and fabric; palm dyeing fabric; construction cloths; detailing the period of decomposition of the formal structure of the palm; creation of manuals oil palm observation drawings. Then came the composition of the standards that resulted in the series of prints named "The palm vein", with their respective analyzes of the printed fabrics and discussions of the results. / A proposta deste estudo ? apresentar o dend? enquanto elemento simb?lico cultural baiano, em outro contexto diferente do culin?rio, e traz?-lo para a ?rea do design de superf?cie t?xtil, atrav?s da cria??o autoral de padr?es, numa linguagem contempor?nea. Para tanto, buscou-se apoio te?rico-conceitual em autores que discutem o design de superf?cie, o design t?xtil, a estamparia, a moda e a cultura baiana. Procurou-se compreender o envolvimento da estampa em duas categorias de an?lise, que foram: linguagem e diferencia??o; dispositivo cultural e simb?lico. O car?ter desta pesquisa destacou-se pela abordagem interdisciplinar, experimental e qualitativa, que proporcionou sustenta??o em todo o percurso trilhado. O estudo, para construir a metodologia da desconstru??o e ressignifica??o, consistiu em acompanhar, explorar, interpretar o dend?, desde a decomposi??o da sua estrutura morfol?gica no per?odo de sete meses. Esse procedimento foi fundamentado no m?todo da descontextualiza??o e recontextualiza??o do design de superf?cie contempor?neo. Para situar o dend? na cultura, na moda e na arte baiana, contou-se com autores selecionados e atrav?s da realiza??o de entrevistas com artistas e designers baianos. A pesquisa desenvolveu um longo processo criativo a partir do dend? que passou por diferentes est?gios, experimentos e registros, como: atividade de interven??o com a participa??o coletiva entre alunos matriculados da disciplina Desenho Art?stico da UEFS; testes de fixa??o do dend? em papel e tecido; tingimento do dend? em tecido; constru??o de pan?s; detalhamento do per?odo de decomposi??o da estrutura formal do dend?; cria??o de desenhos manuais de observa??o do dend?. Em seguida, ocorreu a composi??o dos padr?es que resultou na s?rie de estampas nomeada ?Na veia do dend??, com as respectivas an?lises sobre os tecidos impressos e as discuss?es dos resultados obtidos.

Las pymes textiles se diferencian de otras por su capacidad de generar diseños de prendas acorde a las tendencias actuales, esta es la principal ventaja competitiva de una pyme del rubro, debido a lo complicado que significa diferenciarse a través de costos y materiales por la falta de inversión, sin embargo, la gestión de diseños refieren problemas de gestión desde la interna de toda empresa, debido al desconocimiento de herramientas que se tienen para mejorar en procesos, aun conociendo lo determinante que es manejar una correcta gestión de diseños debido a la competencia del mercado. Se busca establecer un modelo que pueda mejorar los tiempos, costos y satisfacción de trabajadores que colaboran dentro la gestión de diseño de las pymes textiles, utilizando un modelo BPM de gestión bajo enfoque Design Thinking, cambiando el enfoque de la herramienta Design Thinking para buscar soluciones dentro de problemas empresariales a través de la estructura BPM y su ciclo de vida; todo ello permite empatizar con los problemas y brindar una estructura de pasos para llegar a soluciones innovadores desde una perspectiva de empatía e insights. Se realizó un caso de estudio para la validación del modelo en una pyme textil del Perú, dentro de la investigación se dieron a conocer los resultados que se obtienen al utilizar ambas herramientas como alternativa a la mejora de la gestión, teniendo como principal resultado la mejora de tiempos y costos en gestión de diseño en un 9% y 7%, respectivamente. / Textile SMEs differ from others by their ability to generate garment designs according to current trends, this is the main competitive advantage of an SME in the sector, due to the complexity of differentiating through costs and materials due to the lack of investment, however, design management refers to management problems from within every company, due to the lack of knowledge of tools that are available to improve processes, even knowing how crucial it is to handle correct design management due to the competence of the market. It seeks to establish a model that can improve the times, costs and satisfaction of workers who collaborate within the design management of textile SMEs, using a BPM management model under the Design Thinking approach, changing the focus of the Design Thinking tool to seek solutions within business problems through the BPM structure and its life cycle; All of this allows empathizing with problems and providing a structure of steps to reach innovative solutions from an empathy and insights perspective. A case study was carried out for the validation of the model in a textile SME in Peru, within the investigation the results obtained when using both tools as an alternative to improving management were disclosed, with the main result being improvement of time and costs in design management by 9% and 7%, respectively. / Trabajo de investigación

Asking the question: How can the waffle weave be reinterpreted through material, technical and colour research, the investigation of this MA thesis revolves around the weaving technique with the aim of presenting a collection of various woven textiles, where the waffle has been used in different ways. The weave, with its three- dimensional structure creates an interesting canvas to experiment upon as its structure creates both texture as well as depth to the textile. Furthermore, the research is conducted through a systematic exploration of the different aspects mentioned above, where theory and practise go hand in hand. Moreover, the practical experiments start as sketches on the computerised ARM looms and then are scaled up and revised on the industrial jacquard looms. The results showcase a variety of waffle weaves; from flat to three- dimensional, with various colour and surface effects as well as different compositions and overall forms. So, through this research, the degree project aims to explore and experiment the potential and possibilities of the waffle weave

Stories to wear is a bachelor degree work in textile design. The position of the work is in digitally printed textile surface pattern for clothing where the surface pattern collection is designed for storytelling and playfulness. The project explores the synergistic effect in combining a method where randomness decides the outcome, textiles, patterns and the body. / Stories to Wear är ett kandidatarbete inom textildesign. Arbetets position är inom digitalt tryckt textilytmönster för kläder där ytmönsterskollektionen är designad för berättande och lekfullhet. Projektet utforskar den synergistiska effekten av att kombinera en metod där slumpen bestämmer utfallet, textilier, mönster och kroppen.

No description available.

The purpose of this research was to identify the expertise of CAD graphics operators/managers in the design and marketing phases of textile/apparel product development. Additionally, the purposes were to determine the effect of CAD graphics on product development in the textile/apparel industry, and to identify future needs and uses of CAD graphics in the industry. A questionnaire was sent to 117 CAD graphics operators/managers. The results from the questionnaire were obtained through frequency and percentage distributions. The major findings of this study concluded that textile design and/or colorations and coloration of sketches were the major uses for CAD graphics systems. The shortening of response time of development of idea in design cycle was the major benefit of using a CAD graphics system. Future needs and wants were found to be mainly in the areas of better color control, matching and selection, better resolution in printing, and faster, larger printout capabilities. / Master of Science