Submitted by Cássia Santos (cassia.bcufg@gmail.com) on 2016-10-17T14:11:42Z No. of bitstreams: 2 Tese - Ivan Salamanca Montesinos - 2016.pdf: 3788684 bytes, checksum: da4ce71fec2de6c3abbd618af3a5f6e8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Jaqueline Silva (jtas29@gmail.com) on 2016-10-17T17:18:59Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 2 Tese - Ivan Salamanca Montesinos - 2016.pdf: 3788684 bytes, checksum: da4ce71fec2de6c3abbd618af3a5f6e8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-10-17T17:18:59Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 Tese - Ivan Salamanca Montesinos - 2016.pdf: 3788684 bytes, checksum: da4ce71fec2de6c3abbd618af3a5f6e8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-07-25 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / In Peru, sheep farming is an important activity for smallholders, which breed these ruminants seeking the consumption and sale of subproducts. This study aimed to characterize the sheep breeders, their productive systems, as well as macroscopic and microscopic wool qualities, on flocks in the municipality of Ite, Tacna region, southern coast of Peru. In 2012, eight shepherds from Humedales and 24 smallholders from farms were interviewed, using a questionnaire. Also fleeces of wool were sampled on 20 creole sheep from Humedales, 20 creole sheep from farms, and six Hampshire Down crossbreds. Results evidenced two types of family sheep farming, according to environment and type of breeder, both cases dedicated to meat production with creole and crossbred sheep. It was verified a little technical assistance and government attention, empiric management and flocks presenting regular to low productivity. The wool of the three groups showed mostly short fibers, appropriated for industrial textile processing; however, creole sheep from Humedales presented longer fibers, tending to artisanal use. Wool fibers of creole sheep were entrefine and comfortable. In Ite, sheep farming is commercial or subsistence, but the producers can remain on market, because sheep meat is appreciated in the region and the breeding practiced since colonial times. Creole sheep showed certain productive advantages, in relation to crossbreds, although suffer absorbent crossbreedings, which can cause extinction risk at this locality. Is recommend the continuity of studies on Ite’s creole sheep, to conserve and exploring their unknown zootechnical qualities, aiming a sustainable sheep farming in southern Peru. / No Peru, a ovinocultura é uma importante atividade para os pequenos produtores, os quais criam esses ruminantes buscando o consumo e venda de subprodutos. Este estudo objetivou caracterizar os ovinocultores, seus sistemas de produção, assim como qualidades macroscópicas e microscópicas da lã, em rebanhos no município de Ite, região Tacna, litoral sul do Peru. Em 2012, foram entrevistados oito pastores dos Humedales e 24 agricultores das chácaras, usando um questionário. Também foram amostradas mechas de lã em 20 ovelhas crioulas dos Humedales, 20 crioulas das chácaras e seis mestiças Hampshire Down. Os resultados evidenciaram dois tipos de ovinocultura familiar, segundo ambiente e tipo de criador, ambos os casos dedicados ao corte com ovinos crioulos e mestiços. Verificou-se pouca assistência técnica e atenção governamental, manejo empírico e rebanhos presentando regular a baixa produtividade. A lã dos três grupos mostrou majoritariamente fibras curtas, apropriadas para processamento têxtil industrial, no entanto, as crioulas dos Humedales apresentaram fibras mais longas, com tendência para uso artesanal. As fibras das ovelhas crioulas eram entrefinas e confortáveis. Em Ite, a ovinocultura é comercial ou de subsistência, mas os produtores conseguem manter-se no mercado, porque a carne ovina é apreciada na região e a criação praticada desde épocas coloniais. Os ovinos crioulos mostraram certas vantagens produtivas, em relação aos mestiços, embora sofram cruzamentos absorventes, que podem causar risco de extinção nesta localidade. Recomenda-se continuar os estudos dos ovinos crioulos de Ite, para conservar e explorar suas qualidades zootécnicas desconhecidas, visando uma ovinocultura sustentável no sul do Peru.

This project aimed to address the lack of research into the mechanical properties and degradation mechanisms for historical tapestries at the fabric level and understand how effective conservation support strategies can be in the preservation of these artifacts. The research incorporated a large range of techniques from diverse disciplines including weaving, ageing, computer modeling, biochemistry and conservation science. The successful manufacture and ageing of relevant samples provided an excellent opportunity to include testing of historical samples for comparison. Tensile testing of all samples provided a valuable insight into the characteristics of degraded historical samples compared to artificially aged samples. Although individual ageing processes – including UV ageing, Relative Humidity (RH) – thermal cycling and mechanical strain ageing produced a reduction in strength, the historical samples showed a far greater loss of strength due to the combination of all types of ageing in addition to handling and pollution damage. A proteomic analysis of the wool fibres resulted in a greater understanding of the degradative “dark” wool ageing process which suggests that wool yellowing and tendering can be produced not just through photo-chemical reaction. Additionally, the chemical analysis laid an important foundation for future research into linking chemical mechanisms of damage with mechanical loss of strength. Analysis using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy (EPR) provided an insight into the free radical chemistry of a range of wool/wool samples. It was observed that the light aged samples produced thiyl radicals whereas thioperoxy radicals were seen in the heat-humidity aged samples. This implies separate chemical reactions occur to produce degradation in the different ageing regimes. EPR analysis of some historical samples produced a carbon-based radical peak linked to a soot calibration signal. Further research on historical samples found phenolic radicals, possibly linked to the complex dye chemistry. Further research needs to be undertaken to fully clarify these findings. A world-wide questionnaire to textile conservators has provided a useful resource in terms of a survey of methods and materials used across the world – including technical data as well as more “ethical” motivations for conservation. The results of this survey were used along with the physical data collated in the mechanical testing as information inputted into a finite element model (FEA) to undertake the digital modeling of a tapestry hanging under its own weight. Although more research is needed to fully develop this model, a preliminary investigation has been established which can be used in future research as a tool for textile conservators across the world.

Content: Surfactants of different ionic nature are used in virtually all steps of leather production. In processes like soaking, degreasing and wool washing, tremendous amounts of surfactants are applied and to a great extent discharged into the tannery effluent. In order to improve the sustainability of leather processing, there is a constant search for more efficient, environmentally friendly emulsifiers, which give superior results already in smaller usage amounts. By introduction of propylene oxide based lipophilic linkers between the hydrophilic head and hydrophobic tail, the wetting and emulsion capability of a surfactant can be increased significantly. The resulting surfactants, so called extended surfactants, are generally more hydrophobic and have an extended tail, which reaches further into the oil face without scarifying the water solubility, what would be the results when increasing the alkyl chain. Thus, the use of lipophilic linker changes the emulsion on a structural level. Extended surfactants have been found to be superior in various applications, including textile laundry or tertiary oil recovery. In the present work, the efficiency of various types of non-ionic and anionic extended surfactants is demonstrated in various stages of leather making. Model surfactants with lipophilic linkers are compared to their analogues without linker molecules. In many processes, significantly improved surfactant efficiencies are found making this group of molecules an interesting topic for further exploitation. Take-Away: Significantly improved surfactant efficiency for more sustainable leather processing

This master thesis deals with inhalation of fine particles and fibres into human lungs. This is a scientific field where computer modelling is used to describe the movement of fibres and their deposition in the lungs. However, the results of these simulations must be verified experimentally. The prediction of fibres behaviour is important from a toxicology point of view where it is important to know deposition hot-spots and places where fibres could possibly cause problems. The review of the state-of-the-art is focused on the deposition of particles in human lungs followed with a chapter on fibre as a type of particle, and occupational exposure limits set by different world associations. The last theoretical chapter describes human lungs and its diseases which can evolve when limits for occupational exposure are not met. The experimental chapter consists of a description of the used experimental setup and results from an experiment together with a comparison of results with other similar experiments.

Rapporten behandlar och utvärderar tre olika isolermaterial, Polyisocyanurat (PIR), grafitcellplast och mineralull, vid tilläggsisolering av miljonprogrammets byggnationer.  Stora delar av miljonprogrammet är nu i behov av upprustning. Samhällets skärpta krav gällande energiförbrukning gör att nya rationella metoder och material krävs för att tillgodose ställda krav. Att tilläggsisolera är en del i denna upprustning, och eftersom valet av isolermaterial ofta faller på gamla beprövade metoder och materialval, såsom mineralull, syftar denna rapport till att öka kunskapen om alternativa, mer högpresterande isolermaterial. Isolermaterialens egenskaper tas först upp och behandlas i en generell jämförelse där ekonomiska och tekniska aspekter beaktas. För att konkretisera och påvisa utfallet i ett specifikt fall genomförs en studie för ett referensprojekt, kvarteret Hundlokan, som ägs och förvaltas av Fastighets AB Förvaltaren. I studien undersöks tre olika alternativ för vart och ett av materialen vid tilläggsisolering utvändigt av Hundlokans fasader. Samtliga alternativ ställs sedan mot varandra och utvärderas med hjälp av: fukt-, U-värdes-, energi-, kostnads- och LCC-beräkningar (livscykelkostnad). Enklare fuktberäkningar som påvisar relativ fuktighet (RF), ånghalt och temperatur i väggens olika skikt genomförs. Resultatet visar att alla alternativ anses vara möjliga att tillämpa utan att fuktproblem ska behöva uppstå. Mer avancerade beräkningar bör genomföras vid projektering. Energiberäkningarna för de olika alternativen och även ursprungsfallet görs i ”VIP-energy” för att möjliggöra en realistisk jämförelse där skillnaderna i transmissionsförluster ställs mot varandra. I kostnadsberäkningarna påvisas skillnaderna i produktionskostnaderna för de olika alternativen. Dessa tillsammans med energibesparingen i form av minskade transmissionsförluster ligger sedan till grund för LCC-beräkningarna. Då stora ytor av fasaden i kv. Hundlokan upptas av fönster och indragna balkonger som skapar köldbryggor görs med ökad isolertjocklek ingen stor energibesparing i form av minskade transmissionsförluster. Initialkostnaderna för de tjockare isoleralternativen blir för höga för att möjliggöra återbetalning inom rimlig tidsram. Slutsatsen blir att tilläggsisolering med alternativa material till mineralull kan vara lönsamt och bör alltid undersökas i ombyggnadsprojekt. I det specifika fallet kvarteret Hundlokan är tilläggsisolering med 10 cm PIR det mest lönsamma alternativet. / This report treats and evaluates three different types of insulation materials: Polyisocyanurate (PIR), graphite foam and mineral wool, at additional insulation of houses from the Swedish “millionprogram”. Large parts of the houses from the millionprogram are now in need of restoration. The stricter rules laid down by the society regarding the use of energy, demands new, rational methods and materials to satisfy the regulations. Additional insulation is a step in meeting the energy regulatory requirements, and since the choice of insulation often is limited to traditional out tried methods and choices of materials, such as mineral wool, this report will explore the alternative, high-performance insulation materials. The insulation material’s qualities will be treated in a general comparisment where economical and technical aspects will be covered. In order to concretize and demonstrate the outcome in a specific case, a case study will be executed for the neighborhood Hundlokan owned and managed by Fastighets AB Förvaltaren. In the case study, three different alternatives will be examined, for each and every material at the additional insulation, outwardly at Hundlokan’s facades. All these alternatives are compared with each other and evaluated with regards to moister, u-value, energy, costs and LCC- calculations (Life cycle analysis). Simpler moisture calculations are implemented demonstrating the relative humidity (RF), steam level and temperature in the walls different layers. The results of the moisture calculations demonstrate that all alternatives seem possible to apply without the risk of the occurrence of any moisture problems. But more advanced moisture calculations are recommended to be carried out for restoration projects. Energy calculations regarding the different alternatives and the current state will be performed with “VIP-energy” in order to enable a realistic comparisment between the differences at transmission losses. Differences are shown within the cost’s calculations in production costs for the different alternatives. These along together with the energy savings in terms of less transmission losses are bases for the LCC-calculations. A large surface of the facade is covered by windows and recessed balconies which create thermal bridges, increased thickness of the isolation results in no larger energy savings in terms of decreased transmission losses.  The initial costs for the thicker isolation alternatives will be high in order to enable repayment within a reasonable time frame. The conclusion is that adding insulation with alternative materials than mineral wool can be profitable and should always be examined in reconstruction projects. For the specific case, Hundlokan additional insulation with 10 cm PIR is the most profitable option.

Studiens syfte undersökte återvinningsproblematiken kring materialet glasull och varför glasull i hög grad hamnar på deponi. Studien är utförd som en kvalitativ studie med semistrukturerade intervjuer för att få mer detaljerade svar och mer kunskap om glasull från organisationer som arbetar med materialet. Teorierna som har använts i studien är institutionell teori och cirkulär ekonomi. Resultaten visade att det krävs mer samarbete och kommunikation mellan tillverkare, användare, och avfallsstation för att hitta lösningar som möjliggör återvinning. Det framkom även att sortering och separering av material på rivningsplatsen har en stor betydelse för återvinning av glasull, eftersom det skapar möjlighet för en ökad cirkularitet. Vidare visade resultatet glasullavfallets låga värde vilket leder till mindre motivation att återvinna materialet.   Studiens slutsats är att d​​et som görs idag inte är tillräckligt för att nå en mer hållbar utveckling, inte ens för att minimera glasull på deponin.  “Vi har bara en planet och det är ett gemensamt ansvar”. / The purpose of the study was to investigate the recycling problems associated with the material glass wool and why glass wool largely ends up in landfill. The study is conducted as a qualitative study with semi-structured interviews to get more detailed answers and more knowledge about glass wool from the organizations that work with the material. The theories that have been used in the study are institutional theory and circular economy. The results showed that more cooperation and communication between manufacturers, users, and waste stations is needed to find solutions that enable recycling. It also emerged that sorting and separating materials at the demolition site is of great importance for glass wool recycling, as it creates the opportunity for increased circularity. Furthermore, the result showed the low value of glass wool waste, which leads to less motivation to recycle the material.   The conclusion of the study is that what is being done today is not enough to achieve a more sustainable development, not even to minimize glass wool in the landfill.  "We only have one planet and it is a shared responsibility".

Wool is often being marketed as sustainable. However, when looking at LCA studies, results can be significantly different from one study to another and wool sometimes shows higher impacts than other fabrics. Based on a comprehensive literature review, this thesis aims at understanding the key environmental impacts of wool production and assessing the influence of main methodological choices on wool LCA results. In particular, the choice of the scope, allocation method and further considerations on water consumption and land use indicators have a great significance on the results of the studies. In order to provide with a fair representation of wool environmental impacts, the whole life-cycle should be taken into account, and methodological choices, such as the scope definition and allocation methods are to be clearly stated. The current tools that are the most widely used in the textile industry to rank fibres according to their sustainability performance are not suitable for wool due to unresolved methodological issues. Indeed, the impact categories that are taken into account in those tools are disadvantageous for wool compared to other alternative fibres, especially regarding water consumption and land use. This thesis also explores the construction of a single score based on the eco-costs of environmental impacts as a more suitable option to build a representative tool.

No description available.

Le travail développé dans cette thèse a pour but d’étudier le comportement hygrothermique de matériaux isolants bio-sourcés, et plus particulièrement les fibres de bois, le béton de chanvre, la laine de lin, la laine de mouton, le métisse® et les anas de lin. Ces matériaux, par essence naturels, présentent des spécificités liées à leur origine (animale ou végétale) et à leur structure (fibres, paille, matrice solide…). Leur porosité, très élevée, les rend réactifs aux variations d’humidité relative ambiante, ce qui peut impacter leurs performances thermiques et leur durabilité (comme pour tous les matériaux), mais également leur conférer des capacités de régulation. Dans un souci d’améliorer la connaissance de ces matériaux particuliers, nous proposons tout d’abord d’étudier l’impact causé par l’humidité sur leurs caractéristiques thermiques, principalement la conductivité thermique et la chaleur spécifique. Ensuite les caractéristiques hygrothermiques sont étudiées, ce qui permet de mieux comprendre les phénomènes dépendant des capacités d’adsorption, de désorption, de perméabilité ou de résistance à la vapeur d’eau. On se rend compte également de l’importance du gradient de température sur l’évolution des transferts hygriques au sein des matériaux. En plaçant les isolants bio-sourcés sous sollicitations aléatoires ou en conditions réelles d’utilisation, nous pouvons suivre leur comportement d’un point de vue expérimental. Le couplage à une approche numérique permet d’identifier les paramètres d’influence prépondérants, dans l’optique de la prédiction des transferts couplés chaleur/masse par une simulation dans des conditions particulières d’utilisation, comme la rénovation d’un habitat existant. On constate à partir de mesures in situ que ces matériaux ont une grande capacité d’adaptation à des environnements dont l’humidité relative est évolutive. / The work developed in this thesis aims to study the hygrothermal behavior of bio-sourced insulating materials, and more particularly wood fibers, hemp concrete, linen wool, sheep wool, material made of textile recycling (metisse®) and flax shives. These materials, which are essentially natural, have specific characteristics linked to their origin (animal or vegetable) and their structure (fibers, straw, solid matrix, etc.). Their very high porosity makes them reactive to the relative humidity variations, which can affect their thermal performances and their durability (as for all materials), but also give them a regulation capacities. In order to improve the knowledge of these particular materials, first, we propose to study the impact caused by moisture on their thermal characteristics, mainly thermal conductivity and specific heat. Then the hygrothermal characteristics are studied, which makes it possible to better understand the phenomena depending on the capacities of adsorption, desorption, permeability or water vapor resistance. Also, we realize the importance of the temperature gradient impact on the evolution of the hygroscopic transfers within the materials. By placing the studied bio-sourced insulation materials under random loading or under real conditions, it will be possible to follow their hygrothermal behavior from an experimental point of view. The numerical approach makes it possible to identify the preponderant influence parameters, in the context of the prediction of coupled heat and mass transfers by simulation under particular conditions of use, such as the renovation of an existing habitat. On the basis of in situ measurements, it can be seen that these materials have a high adaptability to environments whose relative humidity is evolutionary.

The objective of the study was to determine sheep growth performance, fleece weights and wool quality characteristics in the sweet and sourveld communal rangelands of the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa. Data were obtained in 80 ewes aged two to three years, selected in four ecologically different communities. Two communities (Roxeni and Tyabane) were in a sweetveld area and the other two communities (Luzi I and Luzi II) were in a sourveld area. The ewes from Tyabane were nondescript, whereas ewes from Roxeni, Luzi I and Luzi II were crossbred between Merinos and non-descript sheep. Selected ewes were monitored for live weight, body condition scoring and fleece weight during shearing. Wool samples were collected from each ewe and were analysed for fibre diameter, comfort factor, clean yield, wool crimps, staple length, staple strength and the Position of break. Sheep from Roxeni were heavier (P <0.05) (39.9 ± 1.1kg) than sheep from Tyabane (29.8 ± 1.1kg). Sheep from Tyabane had the lightest (P <0.05) fleece weight (1.0 ± 1.1kg) and sheep from Roxeni had the heaviest (3.1 ± 1.1kg). There were no significant differences (P ≥0.05) between body condition scores of sheep in Roxeni and the Luzi communities. The live weights of the two-year old ewes were similar (P ≥0.05) to the three-year old ewes’ live weight. However, the three year old ewes had higher (P <0.05) body condition scores than the two year old ewes. Two year old ewes also had lower (P <0.05) fleece weight than the three years old ewes. Wool from Roxeni, Luzi I and Luzi II had lower fibre diameter (P <0.05) than wool from Tyabane. Roxeni sheep had the highest clean yield (P <0.05) of wool, followed by Luzi I and Luzi II; Tyabane had lowest clean yield percentage of wool. Wool from sheep grazing on sweetveld had a higher (P <0.05) clean yield percentage (74.3 ± 0.7%) than those grazing on sourveld (71.7 ± 0.7%). There were higher staple mid-breaks (69.5 ± 5.2) and lower base-breaks (30.5 ± 5.2) in sweetveld (P <0.05) than in sourveld, 7.5 ± 5.2 and 92.5 ± 5.2 for mid-breaks and lower base-breaks, respectively. It was concluded that sheep raised in the sweetveld and bred with purebred Merino rams had higher performance than the ones reared in the sourveld. The young upgraded ewes had a higher wool quality than the older ewes raised on communal rangelands.