In September 2015, the world leaders gathered to endorse 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDG), demonstrating a paradigm shift for people and the planet build on shared values, principles, and priorities for a common destiny. In the process of consolidating the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) consultations with business representatives raised two issues related to the potential success of the goals. The first issue was to better measure and value true performance of business preconditioned by identifying the most significant impact areas. The second issue was concerned with integration of sustainability into core business strategies. Both issues lead back to the proclaimed paradigm shift built on shared values for a sustainable future as demonstrated by the SDGs and demonstrate challenges with implementation of the SDGs. Although comprehensive frameworks to help business integrate the goals have been developed, the complexity and sheer volume of the various targets and indicators hinder many companies from reporting on their performance and contributions. The textile and apparel industry, while endowed with enormous potential related to development of countries has drawn increased attention to its negative impacts along the value chain. The industry is also one of the first to integrate the SDG into their sustainability reports. However, critics point to the fact that simply linking sustainability activities to the SDGs is not enough and cherry-picking the goals that have the easiest business case will be insufficient. Thus, to address this potential discrepancy between communication and action, the aim of this study has been to investigate the perceived value of SDGs integration in sustainability reporting within the apparel industry. Through a critical discourse analysis, the study has reviewed six sustainability report by two Swedish apparel companies, Lindex and Filippa K, from 2015 to 2017. conceptual framework has been developed according to the SDG compass including two variables; communicated motives for SDG integration and methods to measure and report on goal fulfilment. The findings show that both companies are using the SDGs as a communicative tool to point to the conceptual motives which drives the sustainability work. Discursive strategies to frame the companies’ sustainability methods are made by utilizing the concept of “circularity”. The level of SDG integration differs between the companies. Lindex show discursive developments between 2015 to 2015 reflecting extended responsibility with correspondence between communication and action. While Filippa K does not show the same level of discursive maturity in terms of motive, the methods to address the sustainability issues related to circular fashion has accelerated significantly over the years comparatively to Lindex. The lack of communicated methods to address social issues is however evident. The findings further show that there is a correspondence between level of SDG integration and SDG contribution. This study corroborates with previous research arguing that the business world is more complex than something that can be assessed in a black and white dichotomy of hypocrisy versus sincerity and needs a much more sophisticated approach to the gap between promise and performance and that the SDGs have a transformative potential. It also provides insights on how the application of the SDGs can be seen through a spectrum between weak and strong sustainability depending on the maturity of a company’s sustainability management.

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) är företagens ansvar för den sociala-, miljömässigaochekonomiska påverkan de har på samhället. Begreppet inkluderar även företagens förmågaatt självmant engagera sig mer än vad lagen kräver. Under de senaste åren har det uppdagats ettflertal skandaler som har lett till att det numera har blivit allt viktigare för företag att engagerasig inom CSR och kommunicera ut denna information till sina intressenter. Tidigare forskningvisar dock på att det finns begränsat med forskning kring företagens kommunikation av derasCSR-engagemang. Dessutom implementerades en ny lag i årsredovisningslagen i slutet av2016, vilket kommer att tvinga fler företag att hållbarhetsrapportera. Ungefär 1 600 företagberörs av lagändringen då Sverige har valt att inkludera fler företag än vad EU-direktiven kräver.Således har det blivit relevant att fortsätta diskussionen och studera konsumenters förtroendeför den information som företag kommunicerar ut. Syftet med denna studie är därmed attbidra till en fördjupad diskussion angående förtroendet till företags CSR-kommunikation. Studiensforskningsfråga har formulerats på följande sätt: Vad anser konsumenter vara förtroendeingivandeCSR-kommunikation gällande klädföretag?Studien är av kvalitativ karaktär med en abduktiv forskningsansats. Insamlingen av det empiriskamaterialet har skett genom en diskursanalys på fyra företags hemsidor; H&M, KappAhl,Haglöfs och Fjällräven, samt sju semi-strukturerade intervjuer. Vad gäller studiens analys hartidigare forskning samt två teorier tillämpats på det empiriska materialet; The pyramid of corporatesocial responsibility och Legitimitetsteorin.Det framkommer i studien att fokus vid kommunikation av företagens CSR-engagemang primärtbör ligga vid etiskt ansvar för att legitimitet ska erhållas. Studien visar på att klädföretagensfokus på denna ansvarskategori stämmer överens med respondenternas värderingar. Inometiskt ansvar bör företagen främst uppmärksamma de mänskliga rättigheterna i form av de anställdasförhållanden och en intolerans av barnarbete. Utöver detta är det relevant för företag attkommunicera ut ett engagemang inom företagens juridiska- och filantropiska ansvar för att ettförtroende ska genereras. Det är även av vikt att kommunicera ut information som är transparentoch som belyser både för- och nackdelar gällande verksamheten. Slutligen bör företag undvikaatt kommunicera ut information som kan uppfattas vara en förskönad bild av verkligheten samtinformation som kan tolkas ha ett marknadsföringssyfte. / Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is a concept that involves the companies’ responsibilityfor the social-, the environmental- and the economic impact they have on the community. Italso includes the companies’ aspiration to do more than the law require them to do. During thelast years, several scandals have been revealed which have resulted in the importance of engagingwithin CSR for the companies. Furthermore, to communicate this information to the companies’stakeholders. However, previous research shows that there is limited research regardingthe companies’ communication of their CSR engagement. In addition, a new law was implementedby the end of 2016, which will force more companies to establish a sustainability report.Approximately 1 600 more companies will be affected by the change of law since Sweden havechosen to include more companies than the EU directives require. Consequently, it has becomemore relevant to continue the discussion and to study the trust of the consumers regarding theinformation that companies communicate. The purpose of this thesis is to contribute to the discussionabout what is considered as trustworthy information regarding the companies’ CSRcommunication. The research question of the thesis is: What do consumers consider to be trustworthyCRS-communications regarding apparel companies?The thesis is of a qualitative nature with an abductive research approach. The collection ofempirical data has been gathered through a discourse analysis on four companies’ websites;H&M, KappAhl, Haglöfs and Fjällräven and seven semi-structured interviews. When it comesto the analysis of the thesis, previous research and two theories have been applied to the empiricaldata: The Pyramid of Corporate Social Responsibility and Legitimacy Theory.In the thesis it appears that the companies primarily focus regarding the CSR engagement,should be to communicate the ethical responsibility to obtain legitimacy. The thesis shows thatapparel companies’ focus on ethical responsibility equals the respondents’ values. Within theethical responsibility the companies primarily should pay attention to the human rights such asthe conditions of the employees and an intolerance concerning child labor. In addition to theethical responsibility it is relevant for the companies to communicate an engagement regardingthe legal- and philanthropic responsibilities to obtain trust. It is also important to communicateinformation that is transparent and highlight both the pros and cons of the business. Finally,companies should avoid communicating information that may be perceived as a false image ofthe reality, as well as information that can be interpreted as having a marketing purpose.

Det finns i dagsläget inget tvingande regelverk kring hållbarhetsredovisningar vilket innebär att företag kan utforma sin information på vilket sätt de vill, om de ens väljer att ge ut någon alls. Organisationen Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) arbetar med att förbättra ramverket för hållbarhetsredovisningar och ger med anledning av detta ut riktlinjer kring vad en hållbarhetsredovisning bör innehålla inom de tre områdena ekonomi, miljö och social påverkan. Tidigare forskning visar att större företag utsätts för större granskning av media och högre press av sina intressenter och frågan är om detta medför en mer omfattande hållbarhetsredovisning än mindre företagen. E-handelsföretag står för en allt större del av den totala försäljningen och därför ansågs även denna aspekt vara intressant, speciellt med tanke på att tidigare forskning inom e-handelsbranschen inte berört just kläddetaljister vilket denna studie varit inriktad på. Syftet med studien var att erhålla kunskap om omfattningen och utformningen av hållbarhetsredovisningen hos 15 kläddetaljister. Studien syftade även till att kartlägga om och hur detta skiljer sig mellan världstäckande, europeiska, skandinaviska och e-handelskläddetaljister. Olika förklaringar finns till varför företag väljer att ge ut frivillig information. Det kan vara på grund av att de utsätts för exponering i media och därmed utsätts för press, att företagens intressenter har rätt till information, att företagen vill ha legitimitet eller att företag påverkas av och imiterar varandra. Resultatet av den kvalitativa innehållsanalysen av företagens hållbarhetsinformation bekräftar tidigare forskning då det är tydligt att mer exponerade företag (med butiker i hela världen) överlag har en mer omfattande hållbarhetsredovisning än mindre exponerade företag (med butiker i enbart Europa, Skandinavien eller på internet). Undantaget finns i den sociala kategorin där Europabaserade företag har ett något bättre snitt än världsföretagen. E-handelsdetaljisterna har generellt sett fått ett lågt resultat på alla områden. Flertalet e-handelsdetaljister skriver ingenting om sitt hållbarhetsarbete varken i någon hållbarhetsredovisning eller på sin hemsida. Detta är anmärkningsvärt då det rör sig om stora företag med hundratusentals kunder och det vore intressant att forska vidare på detta område genom exempelvis intervjuer med representanter för företagen. / At this point in time, there are no mandatory rules regarding sustainability reporting which means companies can choose to design their sustainability reports in any way they see fit, if they choose to provide any information at all. The organization Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) aims to improve the framework for sustainability reporting by supplying guidelines regarding what a sustainability report should contain within the areas economy, environment and social impact. Previous research has shown that bigger companies are exposed to bigger pressure from their stakeholders, which poses the question if this entails a more extensive sustainability report than smaller companies. Since e-commerce constitutes a growing part of the total sales this was also an interesting aspect to examine, especially considering no previous research has been made regarding the apparel industry, which this study aimed to look at. The purpose of the study was to gain knowledge about the extension and form of the sustainability reports from 15 clothing retailers. The study also aimed at exploring if and how these reports differ between worldwide, European, Scandinavian and e-commerce retailers. There are different explanations as to why companies choose to disclose voluntary information. It may be because of exposure in the media and the pressure that comes with it, stakeholders right to information, to attain legitimacy, or that companies affect and imitate each other. The result of the qualitative content analysis of the chosen companies' sustainability reports confirms previous research. It is clear that more exposed companies (with stores worldwide) generally has a more extensive sustainability report than less exposed companies (with stores in Europe, Scandinavia or online). There is one exception in the social category where companies with stores in Europe has a slightly better average result than companies with stores worldwide. E-commerce companies produce very low results throughout all three categories. Multiple e-commerce companies have no information about their sustainability work neither in reports nor on their websites. This is noteworthy since these are big companies with hundreds of thousands of customers and this would be an interesting topic for further research, for example by conducting interviews with representatives from the companies.

Purpose: This research aimed to identify and synthesize circular economy-oriented business model innovation opportunities for the textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh to position the business to its B2B customers by achieving a sustained competitive advantage.  Design/methodology/approach: In this study, we conducted a multiple case study, analyzing 3 case companies using an abductive method under the interpretive research philosophy. As a result of our research, we aim to understand the current perceptions of the circular economy in Bangladesh's garment industry and identify opportunities for business model innovation. Therefore, we designed a questionnaire to obtain valuable insights and opinions from 9 business practitioners. In order to gain an in-depth understanding of the respondents, semi-structured interviews and rating-based surveys were conducted. Results: As key results, three CE process has been identified as the most potential to bring BMI- are design (narrowing resource loop), production (slowing resource loop), and recycle (closing resource loop) based on which the T&A industry can position its business to achieve a sustained competitive advantage. Originality/value: To the best of the authors' knowledge, no previous research has been done on this topic. This paper establishes an integrated conceptual model which is first of a kind to integrate CE resource loops and resource-based view. The data presented here are all based on the respondents' perceptions. This thesis paper can help academics do further research on industries that face issues with value creation, and professionals can apply the suggested practical solutions implications in their industry. Key Words: Sustainability, Circular Economy, Business-to-Business Positioning, Business Model Innovation, Textile and Apparel Industry

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The purpose of this thesis is to increase the understanding of supply network configuration (SNC) for small series production in high-cost contexts in relation to the textile/apparel industry. SNC encompasses strategic structural and infrastructural decisions at the supply chain level, motivated by capabilities/priorities. The key configuration decisions addressed concern textile/apparel production in Europe, with associated context-specific advantages and challenges. The thesis takes a particular focus on how practitioners consider these configurations and motivations. The thesis begins with identification of motivations for locating textile/apparel production in high-cost contexts, to capture the driving priorities. Thereafter, the thesis extends the focus beyond location motivations to identify the key SNC aspects and characteristics for small series production in high-cost contexts. These configuration-related aspects and capabilities are elaborated upon and modelled to understand how they are interrelated in textile/apparel industry contexts. The empirical work uses mixed-methods and seeks to bring together the relevant topics using a SNC and capabilities approach. The specific methods, Delphi study and interpretive structural modeling, are focused on sensitivity practitioner perspectives. Findings show multiple key motivations/capabilities for high-cost textile/apparel production, specifically small series production (customization); which is closely linked with several other priorities, including quality and flexibility/delivery. Expanding the view to the SNC aspects, the findings confirm and extend the literature regarding complexities, multi-level characteristics, synergies and trade-offs, and industry/location contingencies. Regarding this European textile/apparel context, several interrelated considerations create challenges with respect to balancing configuration, capabilities and location; in particular related to multiple priorities such as flexibility/delivery, quality, innovation/sustainability, and the level of product variety/customization. Several relational characteristics are also crucial, including focus on trust and information sharing, although, with a few significant exceptions, limited supplier integration levels are found. These findings indicate the need to build upon existing relationships to develop end-to-end digital connections. The thesis approaches issues at the intersection of theory and practice, regarding configuring supply networks for small series production in high-cost contexts. Practically, it develops an approach to evaluate and model decision aspects, demonstrating how this can be used with a variety of textile/apparel companies. Several extensions are required to support current and future state mapping, including developments related to the method and the addition of performance considerations. The thesis contributes to theory by broadening the focus on high-cost locations to include small series production and the SNC perspective. Thus, the research confirms multiple priorities including innovation and sustainability; additionally finding several challenges associated with small series textile/apparel production in high-cost contexts. Further research should extend the focus to understand (re)configuration processes, and implications on priorities like sustainable innovation.

Dispossession has been playing a central role in capitalist accumulation over the last four-hundred-year history of modern capitalism. This dissertation theorizes how dispossession contributes to producing and reproducing the capitalist mode of production in Bangladesh. To do so, the dissertation empirically examines three interrelated aspects of dispossession in its three analytical chapters. First, it explores how the state and the market work in tandem to organize and control dispossession while grabbing land and expelling peasants from their places. Next, it investigates how dispossession contributes to providing 'potential capitals,' such as grabbed land and dispossessed peasants, to the production sites to be converted into 'constant capital' and 'variable capital' and to creating antagonistic class relations. Finally, it explores how market and non-market actors control those dispossessed peasants-turned-workers inside and outside factories to produce surplus values in order to reproduce the capitalist system locally and globally. These three interactive components of dispossession show three successive phases of capitalist accumulation: land-grabbing by divorcing independent producers from their livelihoods (the initial phase), converting land into capital, peasants into wage workers, and non-capitalists into capitalists (the intermediate phase), and controlling and exploiting those wage workers to produce surpluses or a cycle of new capital (the final phase). This dissertation accordingly advances a full-scale theory of dispossession in its concluding chapter by examining how the starting, intermediate, and ending points of dispossession contribute to capitalist accumulation. The dissertation draws on a wide range of empirical evidence collected from Panthapath, Dhaka, Bangladesh. These include 77 life histories, 50 interviews, a land-use survey of 1,007 structures, and a short survey of 147 slums. It also uses various historical records and archival documents. The three major findings of this dissertation are as follows. First, the dissertation shows that the state acts as a class to organize land grabs, often working in tandem with the private sector, but also in direct competition with the market. Not only does the state monopolize extra-economic means to grab land, but the market also often gains access to extra-economic means. Next, the dissertation shows that dispossession works to privatize the commons, proletarianize subsistence labor, create antagonistic class relations, and redistribute wealth upward. Finally, the dissertation identifies a new regime of labor control, called social despotism, that dominates and exploits workers in factories to produce surpluses. I conclude this study with policy recommendations designed to address the various dimensions of structural injustice described in this dissertation. / Doctor of Philosophy / This dissertation theorizes how dispossession contributes to producing and reproducing the capitalist mode of production in Bangladesh. In its three analytical chapters, the dissertation empirically examines three interrelated aspects of dispossession. First, it explores how the state and the market work in tandem to organize and control dispossession while grabbing land and expelling peasants from their places. Next, it investigates how dispossession contributes to providing grabbed land and dispossessed peasants to the production sites and to creating various class hierarchies. Finally, it explores how market and non-market actors control peasants-turned-workers inside and outside factories to produce surplus values in order to reproduce the capitalist system. These three interactive components of dispossession show three successive phases of capitalist accumulation: land-grabbing by evicting peasants from their places (phase 1), converting land into capital, peasants into wage workers, and non-capitalists into capitalists (phase 2), and exploiting wage workers to produce surpluses (phase 3). This dissertation accordingly advances a full-scale theory of dispossession in its concluding chapter by examining how the starting, intermediate, and ending points of dispossession contribute to capitalist accumulation. The dissertation draws on a wide range of empirical evidence collected from Panthapath, Dhaka, Bangladesh. These include 77 life histories, 50 interviews, a land-use survey of 1,007 structures, and a short survey of 147 slums. It also uses various historical records and archival documents. Some of the major findings of this dissertation are as follows. First, the dissertation shows that the state acts as a class to organize land grabs, often working in tandem with the private sector, but also in direct competition with the market. Not only does the state monopolize extra-economic means to grab land, but the market also often gains access to extra-economic means. Next, the dissertation shows that dispossession works to privatize the commons, proletarianize subsistence labor, create exploitative class relations, and redistribute wealth upward. Finally, the dissertation identifies a new regime of labor control, called social despotism, that oppresses and exploits workers in factories to produce surpluses.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Joy Kozar / This study examines colonization, development, and globalization in the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI) with respect to the garment industry, the main industry of the islands. A broad-reaching analysis examined population, gender, economic factors, and import/export data in order to explore the repercussions of garment industry development and subsequent decline on the CNMI. A quantitative analysis was conducted utilizing data from the United States Census Bureau, the CNMI's Department of Commerce, and the U.S. Department of Commerce Office of Textiles and Apparel. This research illustrates how the effects of the garment industry in small developing nations are dramatically impacted by a trade arrangement, the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA), which was a protectionist measure used to restrict manufacturing of certain product through a quota system. In addition, this study reveals the economic implications and societal outcomes for the CNMI after the collapse of the garment industry as a result of the 2005 MFA phase-out. Garment production orders shifted to large producer nations once quota restrictions were no longer in place. Factory closures, lost business revenue, and a loss of manufacturing positions affecting predominantly women plagued the CNMI as well as cost-of-living increases. Federalization of the CNMI took place in 2009 which further complicated the islands’ politics and guest worker population status. Tourism is now the CNMI's chief industry although its growth is dismal and heavily reliant upon world economies. A comparison between Mauritius, another small island nation, concludes the discussion with insight on women's development and future considerations for economic growth as a means of development and dependency in the CNMI.

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher's earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.

Purpose: The purpose of this research is to explore current practices regarding circular economies in the apparel industry and to construct a framework for integrating circular economy practices in the Swedish apparel industry. Methodology: With a constructionist view and an abductive approach the purpose is to be achieved through two qualitative case studies. The themes identified were analysed and interpreted. Theoretical perspectives: The theoretical framework is based upon a business context, on the basis of the textile management in general and logistics, recycling, sustainability and reverse systems in particular. Empirical foundation: The empirical material consists primarily of 9 in-depth semi-structured interviews with various roles at Uniforms for the Dedicated and Filippa K, as well as through a Skype interview with the project manager of Re:Design Studio. They have been asked to talk about their view of sustainability, their practices and future developments. Conclusion: When integrating circular practices in the value chain the authors have identified five main areas that should be integrated, in order to develop towards a circular economy: reimagine, reduce, reuse, repair and recycle. / Program: Applied Textile Management