Garment fit is a complex concept made up of objective and subjective variables. It can be measured in terms of functional ease, garment ease, comfort, and appearance. The success of any garment design is dependent upon the suitability of fit for intended end use. Garment fit is fundamental to user satisfaction. One type of garment where fit is essential is protective clothing. Protective clothing should minimize discomfort to the wearer, maximize the level of environmental protection, and provide minimum interference with the task being performed. Because of consumer complaints about the fit of protective clothing, a recommendation for revision of current sizing specifications has been made by the Industrial Safety Equipment Association (ISEA). The purpose of this research was to evaluate the fit of limited-use protective clothing manufactured to the proposed size revision of ANSI/ISEA 101-1985 Men’s Limited-Use and Disposable Protective Coveralls Sizing and Labeling Requirements. Garments which met minimum specifications were provided in three styles by manufacturers. Subjects were obtained at agricultural conferences sponsored by the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. After selecting garments according to height and weight measurements, subjects were asked to wear the garments while completing an exercise work protocol designed to represent common body movements. Data were collected with a questionnaire concerning overall fit, ability to perform a job while wearing the garment, and whether the garment was too large or too small. Results were used to analyze and make recommendations concerning 1) static fit and dynamic fit, 2) key body measurements other than height and weight needed to select garments, 3) required ease, and 4) the effects of design on fit. Significant results made it possible to make recommendations concerning amounts of ease necessary for overall fit as well as dynamic and static fit. However, evidence was inconclusive in regard to garment design. Comparisons between body and garment measurements were not definitive enough to make recommendations for use of any body dimensions other than height and weight for size selection. Recommendations were made that more anthropometric data be collected for this purpose. / Ph. D.

Thesis (M. Tech. (Fashion, Dept. of Visual Arts and Design)--Vaal University of Technology. / Fashion information is sought during the fashion decision-making process and can be obtained from various sources such as magazines, fashion consultants, websites, store displays as well as personal communication. Various levels, methods such as internal and external search and types of information at the point of purchase, for example garment characteristics, price, brand, labels, social evaluation, impersonal communication with sales persons and perceived risks are used to assist the consumer in making informed fashion decisions. The broad research aim of this study was to determine which methods, sources and economics of fashion information are used and which types of fashion information at the point of purchase are sought by female educators in Vanderbijlpark during the fashion decision-making process, and to whlch extent, as well as to determine the frequency of use of various types of stores for fashion purchases. A self-administered, structured questionnaire was used to collect the data. Section A measured methods of information seeking, section B determined the economics of information search, section C investigated sources of fashion information and section D determined types of information sought at the point of purchase. Demographic information and the frequency with which clothing was bought at various store types were investigated in Section E. A random sample was chosen from the female educating staff of the 22 schools in Vanderbijlpark. The majority of the educators (40.18 percent) were between the ages of 41 and 50, representing baby boomers. Almost all (95.5 percent) had a tertiary qualification and most were married. Regarding the methods of information seeking, the respondents depended on internal information seeking more than on external methods and were moderately involved in the process. Shopping in stores was regarded the most important source of fashion information. Garment characteristics, namely fit and comfort, were regarded as the most important types of information at the point of purchase, while the most popular type of store was department stores, followed by specialty and discount stores. Four clusters of respondents could be distinguished, each with a specific disposition towards the methods and economics of search, sources used and types of information sought at the point of purchase during the fashion decision-making process.

I have written an essay called ”All children are equally worth - A qualitative analysis of how children are produced in KappAhls commercials”. The purpose of this thesis is to do a study of the swedish clothing company KappAhl’s commercials. My purpose is divided into three questions: With which clothing colours are girls and boys represented in the commercials? Is there any difference in the making of ”non-white” and ”white” children in the commercials? and What is being transmitted in KappAhl’s commercials, where the focus should lay on the clothes? My material consists of three selected video clips from KappAhl’s Youtube channel. The three commercials are named: 1, Back to school, 2, Children’s christmas and 3, KappAhl 3 för 2 på alla överdelar för barn (translation: KappAhl 3 for 2 on all children’s tops). I have chosen to use photo interpretation with denotation and connotation as the main tools and also qualitative analysis as methods in my review of the material. The main theoretical base in my thesis is gender theory, while, for instance, stereotypes, binary oppositions and ethnicity are concepts chosen in hope to reach a deeper analytical level. I have also analyzed these commercials through the colours on the children’s clothes, the way the children are dressed and the settings around them. Through the analysis I have come to the conclusion that the children are dressed quite alike, in similar colors. But the girls are often dressed in colors that we find ”neutral” on girls, but if the boys would wear the colors that we find "neutral" on girls, we would see them as boyish. The boys would never wear colours that would seem ”neutral” on them, but in the general eye of society these colours would be seen as girl colors. The biggest difference I found in the commercials between ”non-white” and ”white” was that the ”white” younger boys were mystified through hats and hooded sweatshirts, and the ”non-white” boy, and the ”non-white” grown-up men were all themself with no assecceories trying to mystify them.

I dagens Sverige konsumeras årligen stora mängder kläder. Nyproduktion av textil har en betydande miljöpåverkan med bland annat stor åtgång av vatten samt mängder av kemikalier. Ett alternativ till allt nyproducerat skulle kunna vara andrahandsmarknaden för kläder.Syftet med studien är att undersöka om de kvinnliga kunderna hos butikerna Myrorna och Beyond Retro konsumerar färre nyproducerade plagg för att de konsumerar second hand- och vintagekläder.Vi har använt oss utav en kvantitativ undersökning där vi intervjuat totalt hundra stycken respondenter i anslutning till Myrorna och Beyond Retros butiker. Vidare har vi genomfört fem stycken kvalitativa intervjuer med vana konsumenter hos ovannämnda butiker, för att fånga deras resonemang bakom svaren.De kvantitativa intervjuerna visar på att en liten majoritet anser sig konsumera färre nyproducerade plagg för att de konsumerar second hand- och vintagekläder. Samt att det överhängande motivet bakom köpen var att second hand- och vintagekläder är unikt och trendigt. I de kvalitativa intervjuerna var resultatet på vår huvudfråga omvänd, och ett djupare resonemang fördes kring deras agerande. Dessa respondenter visade sig i vissa fall ha överskattat sitt konsumerande av second hand- och vintagekläder i förhållande till nyproducerade plagg.In Sweden today we are consuming large quantities of clothes. Production of textiles have significant environmental effects, including high consumption of water and chemicals. An alternative to all the new produced clothes could be the second hand- clothes market.The purpose of this study is to investigate whether the female clients of the stores Myrorna and Beyond Retro consume fewer newly garments because they consume second hand- and vintageclothes.We have used a quantitative study where we interviewed a total of one hundred respondents in connection with Myrorna and Beyond Retro stores. Furthermore, we have conducted five qualitative interviews with consumers of the above stores to capture respondents' reasoning behind the answers.The quantitative interviews show that a small majority consider themselves to consume fewer newly constructed garments when they consume second hand- and vintageclothes. The largest motive behind the purchase was that the second hand- and vintageclothes is unique and trendy. In the qualitative interviews were the result to our main question in reverse, and a deeper reasoning on their actions were disused. These respondents appeared in some cases have overestimated their consuming of second hand- and vintageclothes in relation to the newly constructed garments. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

Darbe nagrinėjami Aukštaitijos ir Žemaitijos tradiciniai išeiginiai valstiečių moterų ir vyrų drabužiai dėvėti XIX a. - XX a. pr., bei jų pagrindu kuriami tautiniai kostiumai, t.y. siekiama išsiaiškinti kiek tradiciškumas atsispindi šiuolaikiniuose tautiniuose kostiumuose dėvimuose kultūros ir švietimo įstaigose šiandien. Tuo tikslu buvo pasirinkta po vieną šiuose regionuose esantį rajoną, bei juose esančios įstaigos turinčios tautinių kostiumų. Aukštaitijoje atsitiktiniu būdu buvo pasirinktas Kėdainių rajonas ir jame esančios 5 įstaigos, Žemaitijoje - Tauragės rajonas ir jame esančios 9 įstaigos. / The purpose of the study “Origins and creation tendencies of national clothes of aukstaiciai and zemaiciai” is to find out if the models of traditional costumes of zemaiciai and aukstaiciai were the foundation creating the costumes that we know now in the regions mentioned above. Several cultural and educational establishments that are still using national costumes occasionally were chosen in Aukstaitija and Zemaitija in order to uncover this problem. In Aukštaitija were chosen Kedainiu rajonas and 5 cultural and educational establishments here, which has national clothes, in Taurages rajonas was chosen 9 establishments.

The rapid increase in clothing consumption over the last decades has meant a significant burden on the environment. Some examples of this are the high consumption of natural resources and land, increasing amounts of carbon emissions, excessive use of toxic chemicals, polluting air, land and water and increasing amounts of waste. The average clothing consumption in Europe is far higher than the world average, especially in Nordic countries including Sweden. Adopting and encouraging more circular economies is a part of the European commission‘s strategy to achieve sustainable consumption of resources and protection for environment. The purpose of this Research is to study the possibilities of improving the practice of second hand clothes consumption in Sweden and make it more effective towards the goal of sustainable consumption and circular economies. In order to achieve this goal, it is necessary to understand the challenges and find abilities for improvement in the value chain of used clothes in Sweden, with focus on the reverse logistics system of used clothes (collection and sorting processes) as well as the market of second hand clothes. In order to achieve the purpose of the study, the conceptual framework has been formulated upon studying relevant literature and results of previous studies. Value chains of three charity organizations have been studied and empirical data have been collected through semi-structured interviews with participants from these three organizations. The empirical findings have been interpreted in relation to the conceptual framework and the results of previous studies, in order to answer the research questions. The results of the study showed potential for improvement and development in the reverse logistics system (collections and sorting processes) of used clothes, as well as in the Swedish market of second hand clothes. However, benefiting of this potential requires collaboration between all stakeholders in the value chain of used clothes, including individuals (either in a position of donors or consumers), interested businesses (nonprofit or commercial organizations), government, municipalities, politicians and finally the private sector in clothing industry.

En los últimos años se han generado avances significativos en la tecnología, esto se puede evidenciar en la modificación de los wearables, los cuales cada vez son más pequeños e imperceptibles [1]. El uso de estos dispositivos es relevante en la creación de ropa inteligente debido a que pueden recopilar información del usuario en tiempo real, siendo utilizados para el monitoreo de signos vitales o una herramienta adicional para mejorar el estilo de vida o entretenimiento. El presente trabajo tiene como objetivo presentar un Roadmap de proyectos para el desarrollo de prendas de vestir con tecnología wearable en 4 sectores: entretenimiento, deporte, salud y militar. Para la elaboración del diseño se propone un método de 5 fases y 16 pasos que permite la construcción de un Roadmap de forma simple, considerando las dimensiones: diseño, viabilidad, innovación y rentabilidad. Su aplicación dió como resultado los 11 prototipos mostrados en este proyecto, cada uno con los sensores relacionados en su arquitectura. En total, se consideró la evaluación de 30 especialistas, quienes brindaron una calificación entre alta y muy alta; confirmando y resaltando la probabilidad exitosa de su implementación en los años considerados. / In recent years there have been significant advances in technology, this can be evidenced in the modification of wearables, which are becoming smaller and more imperceptible [1]. The use of these devices is relevant in the creation of smart clothing because they can collect information from the user in real time, being used for monitoring vital signs or an additional tool to improve lifestyle or entertainment. The present work aims to present a Roadmap of projects for the development of clothing with wearable technology in 4 sectors: entertainment, sports, health and military. For the elaboration of the design, a method of 5 phases and 16 steps is proposed that allows the construction of a Roadmap in a simple way, considering the dimensions: design, feasibility, innovation and profitability. Its application resulted in the 11 prototypes shown in this project, each with related sensors in its architecture. In total, the evaluation of 30 specialists was considered, who gave a rating between high and very high; confirming and highlighting the successful probability of its implementation in the years considered. / Trabajo de investigación

Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the Masters Degree in Technology: Fashion Design, Durban University of Technology, 2013. / This study aims to investigate the effect anti-establishment branding has on teenage consumer behaviour within the action sports market, as well as the various factors which influence teenagers when purchasing clothing. The study challenges the notion that teenage consumers respond to, and are influenced by the unconventional marketing campaigns of action sports brands. The results of this study indicate that the action sports market initially captivated the attention of the youth by offering teenagers a sense of acceptance through rebellion. Unfortunately, as the movement grew in popularity the exclusivity of the movement decreased and the clothing associated with it became viewed as too ‘mainstream’ by the wearers. Although the anti-establishment movement is striving for individuality and shies away from conformity, the study found that there appears to be a misconception in the notion that all ‘brands’ are susceptible to ‘trends’ which are driven by ‘designers’. Therefore, there can never be a pure ‘anti-establishment brand’ as the concept of a brand rejects the purpose of anti- establishment rebellion. / National Research Foundation

Bakalauro darbo pirmame skyriuje analizuojami du pradai – priešybės ir vienybės, jų pasireiškimas įvairiais aspektais, nagrinėjamas psichologų, filosofų, požiūris į dviejų vienas kitam priešingų energijų raišką per gėrio ir blogio, moteriškumo ir vyriškumo prizmę bei kokiu būdu priešybių vienybė pasireiškia politikoje, sociume, mene. Tyrinėjama Rytų kultūra, pastebėti joje išskiriami In ir Jang pradai, kurie egzistuoja ne tik Rytų kultūroje, bet ir visose gyvenimo srityse. Antrame skyriuje pateikiamos ir analizuojamos priešpriešų ir vienovės interpretacijos literatūroje, skulptūroje, fotografijoje, aprangoje. Aprašoma, kad skirtingose meno srityse priešybių vienybė suvokiama ir aiškinama panašiai. Trečiajame skyriuje aprašoma sukurtos drabužių kolekcijos įvykdymo eiga, pateikiami sukurti drabužių modelių eskizai priešybių ir vienybių tema, technologiniai mėginiai, projektai, pristatymo parengimas, pateikiama fotosesija. Atsižvelgiant į priešingų energijų charakteristikas, parinktas tam tikras kolekcijos ansamblių toninis ir spalvinis sprendimas, drabužių forma, konstrukciniai sprendimai labiausiai padedantys atskleisti idėją... Kolekcijoje naudojamos trikotažo, atlaso medžiagos bei sukurta technologija – avolonas. Darbe pristatomą kolekciją „Priešybių vienybė“ sudaro 18 vyriškų ir moteriškų drabužių ansamblių projektų, keturi pasiūti modeliai. Ketvirtame skyriuje drabužių kolekcija siejama su verslumu, aprašomos galimos stiprybės, silpnybės, grėsmės bei galimybės... [toliau žr. visą tekstą] / The second part of the bachelor thesis deals with the interpretations of inverses and unities in literature, sculpture, photography and clothing. In addition, unity of inverses may be explained in the same way concerning different branches of art. The fulfillment process of the collection of clothing is described in the third part of the present paper, i.e. the sketches of the clothing models in the theme of inverses and unities, technological samples, projects, preparation of presentation and photo session are presented. Concerning the characteristics of the inverse energies, the exact tonic and chromatic decision of the collection ensemble, the shape of clothing, constructional decisions emphasizing the idea of unity of inverses are chosen. There has been used the fabric of stockinet, satin in the clothing collection, and technology of yarns is established as well. Moreover, the collection of "The Unity of Inverses" presented in the bachelor thesis consists of 18 masculine and feminine clothing ensemble projects and 4 stitched models. The fourth part of the bachelor thesis deals with the connection of the clothing collection with enterpreneurship, and the description of possible strengths, weaknesses, threats and opportunities. Also, the expenditures for realization of clothing collection are presented.

Bakalauro darbe analizuojamos tatuiruotės: jų istorija, ypatumai pasaulio kultūroje, bei visuomenės grupių požiūris į jas bei jų keliamas problemas, jų atspindžiai šiuolaikiniame mene, siekiant geriau susipažinti su šiuo reiškiniu ir jį panaudoti kuriamoje drabužių kolekcijoje. Rašomame darbe gilinamasi į tatuiruočių kilmę ir reikšmes norint suvokti kokio senumo šio meno ištakos ir kiek pakito tatuiruočių paskirtis ir požiūris į tai. Teorinėje medžiagoje analizuojama tatuiruočių paplitimo priežastis šiuolaikinėje visuomenėje. Taip pat šiame darbe pateikiamos jų interpretacijos madoje (aprangoje), interjere ir kitose meno srityse. Atidžiau pažvelgus į tatuiruočių pasaulį, matome jog jame yra niuansų, dėl kurių visuomenėje tai nėra itin sparčiai paplitęs reiškinys. Jų ilgaamžiškumas atbaido daugelį žmonių visą gyvenimą nešioti pasirinktą piešinį, be greitos ir paprastos galimybės jį pašalinti. Įsigilinusi į šią tatuiruotės problemą, radau jai sprendimą, paskatinusį mane šia tema sukurti drabužių kolekciją. Skirtingai nei tatuiruotes, rūbus mes galime pasikeisti, todėl dėl šios savo paprastos savybės drabužiai patys padiktuoja problemos sprendimą. Išlaikydama visas tatuiruočių charakteristikas, sugalvojau perkelti jas ant rūbų taip panaikindama jų ilgaamžiškumo aspektą. Kolekcijos rūbai yra klubinės tematikos - jaunatviški ir spinduliuojantys seksualumu, įmantrių kirpimų, tačiau neužgožiantys svarbiausio akcento - pačių tatuiruočių, suformuotų iš odos ir... [toliau žr. visą tekstą] / Bachelor's analysis of Tattoos: their history and characteristics of world culture, and society views them and their challenges, their reflections in contemporary art, to become better acquainted with this phenomenon and its use in the emerging clothing collection. This work is focused on the origin of tattoos and meanings in order to understand how this old art and the origins of tattooing has changed as far as the purpose and approach to it. The theoretical material is analyzing causes of the prevalence of tattooing in modern society. Additionally in this work interpretations of fashion (clothing), interior and other arts are presented.      In the detailed analysis of the tattoo, we can see that there are nuances, of which in the society it is not very fast phenomenon. Their longevity discourages many people to wear life-choice design, without ability to remove it. I thought about this tattoo issue, and I found a decision, which led me to the topic of a collection of clothes. Unlike tattoos, we can change clothing, and because of this simple feature of the clothes, they are solution by themselves. While maintaining all the characteristics of the tattoo, I moved them on the clothes.    Collection of clothes is a club theme - young and emitting sexuality, fancy styles, and bringing the most important thing - the tattoo, made of the leather and factured textiles. This interpretation is very close to the real tattoo characteristics. Designed 20 achromatic coloring models of... [to full text]