Statistics show high figures of poverty amongst farm dwellers in South Africa. Poverty is also associated with illiteracy, low life expectancy and high figures of malnutrition. One third of farm workers have no formal education. Very few farm dwellers have access to adequate housing and sanitation. A shortage in food, shelter and clothing leads to constant stress. In spite of extreme poverty, most households possess at least some human- and material resources. Through the effective management of these resources, the quality of life of people can be improved. Poor adults can be guided to better management through education. This study was part of the FLAGH-project where an educational intervention programme was developed, implemented and evaluated. The general goal of this study was to improve the sewing skills of female farm dwellers, in order to use existing resources of time, clothing and other textile articles optimally. Through the optimal use of these resources, less money needs to be spent on items such as clothes. More money can then be available for other basic needs, such as food. The intervention model as described by Fawcett et al. was used for this study. An intervention programme was developed, implemented and evaluated. Women on two farms were taught basic sewing skills to repair and recycle old clothes and other textile goods. Data to determine the success of the programme was gathered by means of practical pre- and post-tests. Paired sample t-tests were used to determine the effect size of the results, in order to determine if there was a practical significant difference in the skills of the women before and after the programme. Independent t-tests were used to determine the average and standard deviation in the evaluations of the two evaluators. Participants completed questionnaires regarding the presenting and compilation of the programme, to determine the success of the programme and to identify problems for possible future implementation of the programme. Results showed an improvement in the sewing skills of participants. Results from the programme evaluation showed that participants experienced the programme positively. The most important advantage of this programme was that participants can continue to apply the skills acquired during the programme, without any extra financial costs. / Thesis (M. Consumer Science)--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2006.

This thesis discusses the dress code during the Pitted Ware culture on the Swedish island of Gotland. Eight Pitted Ware grave-fields have been analyzed; only 74 skeletons have been identified with some sort of ornament that could have been attached to clothes. The grave-fields are rich in finds and in people nearly every age group is present. The analysis has shown that there are clear differences between the genders. The female always has some sort of seal tooth ornament around her waist and thighs. The man has sometimes tusks from wild boar and tubular bones as an ornament on his clothes. The children have all of the ornaments that the parents have but in smaller numbers. There are also other finds that appear on all of the individuals, but the tusks, seal tooth and tubular bones are the ones that appear on nearly every individual. The North American Indians clothing has been used as a reference to help understand the clothing of the Pitted Ware. So far all of the finds that have been found on the skeletons have shown great diversity in the Pitted Ware clothing.

Thesis (M.A.)--University of Wyoming, 2009. / Title from PDF title page (viewed on May 28, 2010). Includes bibliographical references (p. 95-99).

Syftet med undersökningen är att undersöka vilken funktion kläder, färger och leksaker har för att framhäva skillnader, men också likheter, mellan manligt och kvinnligt i bilderböcker utifrån ett historiskt perspektiv. Enligt tidigare forskning och olika teorier använder människan leksaker, kläder och färger för att skilja på flickor och pojkar. Dock är det inte bara i det vardagliga livet vi möter på dessa normer kring kön och genus, utan även inom barnlitteraturen. Det blir därmed viktigt för framförallt lärarna att ha vetskap om att eleverna ofta bär med sig erfarenheter och värderingar från bilderböckerna till skolan.   Studien utgick ifrån både en kvantitativ- och kvalitativ innehållsanalys för att få fram helheten och för att kunna gå in på djupet i böckerna. Utifrån analysen visade det sig att de traditionella könsrollerna kring flickor och pojkar, när det kommer till kläder, leksaker och färger, var vanligt bland dessa utvalda böcker. Dock kan läsaren finna belägg i böckerna, att alla författare har på ett eller annat sätt försökt att bryta mot de normer som finns i våran objektiva verklighet genom karaktärernas kläder, färger och leksaker. / The purpose of this study is to analyze the function of clothing, colors and toys to emphasize differences, but also similarities, between boys and girls in the picture books based on a his- torical perspective. Previous research has shown that people use colors, clothes and toys to distinguish boys and girls. It is not just in the everyday life we meet these differences between boys and girls, but also in literature. It is therefore important for teachers to be knowledgeable about the fact that the pupils carry different experiences and values from the picture books. The study was based on both quantitative- and qualitative analyses in order to get a broader perspective of the content in the books. Based on the analyses, it became clear that the tradi- tional gender roles when it comes to clothes, color and toys were common among these se- lected picture books. However, the reader can find that almost all authors have tried to break the norms found in our objective reality through the clothes, colors and toys of the characters.

Ayant remarqué, au cours de mes recherches de master, que questionner les jeunes Françaises sur leur apparence était un outil privilégié pour accéder à des informations concernant le genre et la sexualité, j’ai poursuivi ma recherche pour cette thèse en l’étendant à l’étude des représentations masculines et à la comparaison intergénérationnelle. Cette enquête qualitative s’appuie (notamment) sur un corpus d’une soixantaine d’entretiens individuels avec des hommes et des femmes, que j’ai interrogés sur leurs goûts vestimentaires et leurs opinions concernant l’apparence corporelle.L’enquête a été réalisée à un moment (2011-2015) où l’actualité concernant le genre était brûlante (en pleine polémique sur la « théorie du genre »), ce qui m’a amenée à orienter ma thèse vers une « sociologie de la connaissance » (Berger, Luckmann : 1966) du genre dans le contexte français. Comme l’indique le titre de ma thèse, je considère en effet le vêtement comme un prétexte pour comprendre comment se constituent des groupes hommes et femmes visuellement différenciés, et les liens qu’entretiennent ces apparences différenciées avec l’identification de genre.Dans un chapitre introductif, je décris l’histoire de mon questionnement, ma méthodologie, et enfin mon orientation théorique et épistémologique. Je commence mon argumentation en discutant du contexte historique (chapitres 1) et des modalités de transmission des goûts vestimentaires et des « techniques du corps » (Mauss : 1934) différenciés chez les hommes et les femmes (chapitre 2). Puis, j’aborde la construction identitaire comme un mécanisme amplifiant et naturalisant des différences (chapitre 3). J’en arrive à analyser certains propos abordant la question de la hiérarchie de genre, ainsi que des pratiques vestimentaires qui se proposent de subvertir cette hiérarchie (chapitre 4). Je termine en discutant du point de vue d’individus qui restent attachés à l’amplification de la différence des sexes au moyen de symboles (chapitre 5). / In the course of my previous research, I realized that asking young French women about their body appearance was an interesting way to gather information regarding gender and sexuality. For this thesis, I generalized the analysis of the opinions about appearance and clothes, adding men’s opinions and an intergenerational comparison.This qualitative investigation is based on sixty interviews with men and women, who have been interviewed about their clothing tastes and opinions regarding body appearance. I carried out this study in the political context of the vote on the same-sex marriage law, at a moment (2011-2015) when the “gender topic” was sensitive. This led me to direct my research towards a “sociology of knowledge” (Berger, Luckmann: 1966) of gender in the French context.As indicated in the title of the thesis, I indeed consider the thematic “clothes” as a pretext to understand how visually differentiated groups of men and women are created, and the links between those differentiated appearances and the gender identification.Introduction sets out how I came to study this question, the methodology used, the theoretical and epistemological orientation. Chapter 1 describes the historical context of women’s and men’s different preferences in terms of choice of clothes. Then, in chapter 2, I try to explain the modalities through which taste in clothes and the associated “techniques of the body” (Mauss: 1934) are transmitted. Chapter 3 focuses on the construction of identity as a mechanism which accentuates and naturalizes the differences. Chapter 4 analyzes opinions concerning gender hierarchy and some way of dressing that aim at subverting this hierarchy. I finally discuss the point of view of those who attach an importance to the symbolic accentuation of sex differences in chapter 5.

[pt] A modelagem dos tecidos, assim como sua representação visual, tem sido objeto de estudos diversos ao longo dos últimos anos. Uma importante abordagem que serve como ponto de partida é efetuada por Mansfield (10-12), que utiliza a teoria dos campos de tensão aplicando-a ao estudo de membranas perfeitamente flexíveis. O trabalho aqui apresentado, considera os tecidos como membranas inextensíveis com rigidez à flexão muito baixa. Com alguma restrições, a teoria dos campos de tensão é usada para modelas o comportamento de tecidos retangulares suspensos verticalmente. A equação diferencial das linhas de tensão fornece os deslocamentos e o perfil das dobras que ocorrem no tecido no estado pré-flambado. Posteriormente é feita a análise tridimensional dos deslocamentos, com o qual se consegue incluir o estado pós-flambado dos tecidos. É apresentado um sistema de equações que, resolvido iterativamente através de métodos numéricos simples, fornece as variáveis básicas do tecido: número de dobras (n), relação entre a amplitude das dobras do tecido (Q), e o deslocamento máximo na direção z (zmax). Com a implementação e teste desta metodologia completa-se o ciclo de pesquisas. É conseguida uma representação onde as características de maleabilidade, caimento e número de dobras do tecido são modeladas, levando-se em consideração as suas características físicas (peso, elasticidade, etc.). / [en] The modelling of clothes and its visual representation have been the subject of much research in the last years. An important approach that represents a first step for reaching this purpose was given by Mansfield (10-12), who uses the tension field theory applied to perfectly flexible membranes. The present works regards clothes as inextensible membranes with extremely low stiffness flexure. After establishing some restrictions, the tension field theory is used for modelling the behaviour of vertically suspended rectangular fabrics. The differential equations of tension lines gives the displacement and the outline of the wrinkles occuring in the pre-wrinkling state. Later, a tridimensional analysis of displacements is made, which allows the representation of the post-wrinkling state of clothes. It is presented a system of equations which is iteratively solved by means of simple numerical methods and supplies the basic variables of clothes: number of wrinkles (n), ratio between amplitudes of wrinkles (Q), and the maximum displacement in z direction (zmax). The implementation and test of this methodology complete the research cycle. Thus, it is possible to obtain cloth characteristics such as malleability, draping and number of wrinkles, based upon its physical characteristics (elasticity, weight, etc.).

The diploma thesis on the theme "Clothing as a report" is divided into two parts, namely theoretical and practical. he aim of the work is to analyze what clothes are meant for man and what importance people attribute to him. It focuses on the emergence and importance of fashion and subculture. For the most part, he deals with punk subculture. In the practical part will be created a set of photographs, responding to the theme of the diploma thesis.

Orientador: Ivan De Domenico Valarelli / Banca: Luis Carlos Pachoarelli / Banca: Suzana Barreto Martins / Resumo: A presente pesquisa verifica a eficiência da modelagem tridimensional, moulage, como instrumento de otimização do processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda/vestuário. Para tanto, enfoca as etapas de criação e materialização nas quais a referida técnica encontra-se inserida, onde constata a dicotomia entre as áreas de criação e modelagem. Aborda as qualidades técnicas, construtivas, ergonômicas e estéticas envolvidas no projeto da modelagem do produto, enfatizando os aspectos de conforto, caimento e inovação formal. De abordagem qualitativa, tem seus dados coletados por meio de observações sistemáticas, no âmbito acadêmico, numa variedade de situações-problemas, em momentos diversos, com variadas fontes de informação - cenários criados para reproduzir, considerando as devidas proporções e especificidades - situações industriais análogas. Estabelece as seguintes linhas guias de observação: criar e materializar; materializar a criação do outro; a criação constitui-se na própria materialização. Indicadores previstos na estruturação da pesquisa - adequação dimensional, vestibilidade, inovação formal, tempo, retrabalho, consumo de matéria-prima, soluções de montagem - conduzem aos resultados, numa comparação dos dados obtidos quando a técnica da modelagem tridimensional encontra-se ou não inserida no processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda. É constatada a eficiência da técnica no processo. / Abstract: The purpose of this research is to verify the efficiency of the three-dimensional modeling, draping, as a way to achieve a better development of the fashion/clothing products. For that, it focus the creation and the materialization steps, in which the draping technique is found, where is found a dichotomy between the creation and the modeling areas. It also approaches the technical, constructive, ergonomic and esthetic qualities involved on the modeling project, emphasizing the comfort, adjustment and innovation of the shape. This qualitative research got the data collection by methodological academic observation, with a variety of problem situations, in different moments with distinctive information sources - created reproduction scenes, considering the propositions and specialties - such as industrial situations. It establishes the following observation guide: to create and materialize; to materialize the other’s creation; the creation constitutes in the materialization itself. The indicators used in this research are the dimensional fitness, adjustment, innovation of the shape, time, rework, material raw, assembling solutions. They conduct to the findings, comparing obtained data when the three-dimensional modeling is found in development of the fashion/clothing products and it proves the efficiency of the technique in the process. / Mestre

Orientador: Élson Luciano Silva Pires / Banca: Sílvia Selingardi-Sampaio / Banca: Claudete de Castro Silva Vitte / Resumo: A presente dissertação aborda, por meio de ampla revisão teórica e estudo empírico, a relação entre as noções de território e competitividade ao considerar que o sucesso das empresas na atualidade está relacionado a elementos específicos das regiões e localidades onde estão inseridas, através de seus recursos, organizações, instituições e externalidades. Para tanto, a noção de Arranjo Produtivo Local (APL) se coloca como instrumento de intercâmbio entre a busca de competitividade e a base territorial da atividade econômica, articulando os atores locais em estratégias coletivas para fortalecimento da competitividade do ambiente de negócios, sendo evidente tal relação no Circuito das Malhas do sul de Minas Gerais. Trata-se de região formada por pequenos municípios especializados na produção de artigos de vestuário em pequenas malharias, produção voltada predominantemente para o mercado nacional. A hipótese aventada é que a configuração sócioprodutiva do Circuito se aproxima muito da idéia de Arranjo produtivo local em fase de consolidação por conta do aglomerado de empresas ali existentes e do arcabouço institucional que as serve. Por fim, propõe-se um estudo da competitividade territorial, abordando as estratégias concorrenciais da região para uso de recursos específicos do território, à luz das categorias principais definidoras da moderna competitividade. / Abstract: The present dissertation treats, by means of ample theoretical revision and empirical study, the relationship between the notions of territory and competitiveness when considering that the economic success of the companies in the present time is related to specific elements of regional localities where they are inserted through its resources, organizations, institutions and externalities. This way, the notion of Local Productive Arrangements (APL) takes place as instrument of interchange between the search of competitiveness and the territorial base of the economic activity, articulating the local actors in common strategies for stress of business-oriented competitiveness of the environment, being latent such relationship in Minas Gerais south Circuit Tourist of Knitted clothes. This is a region formed of small cities that had been specialized in clothes production to be sold in small shops, directed specially to the national market. The hypothesis is that the partner-productive configuration of the Circuit approaches to the idea of Local Productive Arrangement in consolidation phase, for account of the accumulation of these existing companies and partner-institutional bases being settled. Finally, a study of the "territorial competitiveness" is considered, approaching the strategies of concurrence of the region to the use of specific resources of the territory by defining the main categories of the modern competitiveness. / Mestre

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:27:52Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2007-01-16Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:36:24Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 fuini_ll_me_rcla.pdf: 1250437 bytes, checksum: 246aa19e54cf6cfe1cce2acc942d50f1 (MD5) / A presente dissertação aborda, por meio de ampla revisão teórica e estudo empírico, a relação entre as noções de território e competitividade ao considerar que o sucesso das empresas na atualidade está relacionado a elementos específicos das regiões e localidades onde estão inseridas, através de seus recursos, organizações, instituições e externalidades. Para tanto, a noção de Arranjo Produtivo Local (APL) se coloca como instrumento de intercâmbio entre a busca de competitividade e a base territorial da atividade econômica, articulando os atores locais em estratégias coletivas para fortalecimento da competitividade do ambiente de negócios, sendo evidente tal relação no Circuito das Malhas do sul de Minas Gerais. Trata-se de região formada por pequenos municípios especializados na produção de artigos de vestuário em pequenas malharias, produção voltada predominantemente para o mercado nacional. A hipótese aventada é que a configuração sócioprodutiva do Circuito se aproxima muito da idéia de Arranjo produtivo local em fase de consolidação por conta do aglomerado de empresas ali existentes e do arcabouço institucional que as serve. Por fim, propõe-se um estudo da competitividade territorial, abordando as estratégias concorrenciais da região para uso de recursos específicos do território, à luz das categorias principais definidoras da moderna competitividade. / The present dissertation treats, by means of ample theoretical revision and empirical study, the relationship between the notions of territory and competitiveness when considering that the economic success of the companies in the present time is related to specific elements of regional localities where they are inserted through its resources, organizations, institutions and externalities. This way, the notion of Local Productive Arrangements (APL) takes place as instrument of interchange between the search of competitiveness and the territorial base of the economic activity, articulating the local actors in common strategies for stress of business-oriented competitiveness of the environment, being latent such relationship in Minas Gerais south Circuit Tourist of Knitted clothes. This is a region formed of small cities that had been specialized in clothes production to be sold in small shops, directed specially to the national market. The hypothesis is that the partner-productive configuration of the Circuit approaches to the idea of Local Productive Arrangement in consolidation phase, for account of the accumulation of these existing companies and partner-institutional bases being settled. Finally, a study of the territorial competitiveness is considered, approaching the strategies of concurrence of the region to the use of specific resources of the territory by defining the main categories of the modern competitiveness.