Clothes are the second skin on human bodies. By coming in contact with humans, clothes become a part of the body. Through the contact, clothes affect and enable human actions. This thesis investigates the relationship between human bodies and clothes by conducting interviews and wardrobe studies. Together with the informants and clothes, the exhibition “Fashioned from Nature” from The Victoria and Albert Museum is partly analyzed. The material is being interpreted in a critical analysis through theories on material agency and skin. The analysis turns to the culture and nature dualism, in order to highlight the neglected physical agency in clothing. Clothing’s agency is both physical and aesthetical. Neither of the aspects can be subordinate, nor superior, since clothes consist equally of both. Following the theories, clothing’s agency is being acknowledged through the encounters with humans. However, the results in this thesis show that clothing’s agency is ever present.

My doctoral thesis is comprised of two bodies of research: two artworks taking the form of installations (videos, audio recordings, textiles, texts), which will be exhibited for viva. Femme Fabrications, 2016, is made from research into the American artist Joseph Cornell's (1903-1972) source materials held in the Smithsonian American Art Museum alongside research on Jean Wilkinson's 1977 book Flower Fabrications. A series of textile works encased in silk lined boxes trace my step-by-step construction of a rose from organdie. The floral emblem of the white rose (dried), 'death is preferable to a loss of innocence' , becomes an editing device, which I use to consider a number of possible recipients for the rose, such as Cornell himself. Spoken word audio recordings, which ruminate on how his sexuality pertain to the criteria of the rose are edited together with home-camcorder video footage of the house that Cornell lived in for most of his life - the house he made the entirety of his artworks within. Central to The Cesspool of Rapture, 2017, are moving-image studies of zippers, stains, rips, abrasions, openings, and closings in a series of dresses made by the American couturier Charles James (1906-1978). These videos register and move through the material research, the garments, at alternating speeds. The changing speed is registered in sound by clicks synced to each individual frame. It is at times violent and at other times tentative and gentle as the uncovering of the damage to the dresses unfolds. Audio recordings of James explicating his interests in eroticism and sexuality persistently interject the footage. This work includes the installation of a series of reconstructions of James's 1932 Taxi dress. Its black linen body is reconfigured and abstracted as the splayed design makes unfinished seams and unzipped zippers visible. In each artwork I configure viewing and consuming as a mode of authorship. I show how these diverse processes of identification become authored acts. When drawn into intimate relation with the leftover material of these historical authors, my contamination proves deviant: I gain possession of the capacity to speak for them, to expose, idolise, misrepresent, and fictionalise them. My thesis is composed of this group of methodologies, which were found and developed within the production of the artworks.

Submitted by JOSIANE SANTOS DE OLIVEIRA (josianeso) on 2017-06-20T12:15:07Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Elisa Fauth da Motta_.pdf: 5354547 bytes, checksum: 8c4b1966770db91dee057c8f04d50bd9 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-06-20T12:15:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Elisa Fauth da Motta_.pdf: 5354547 bytes, checksum: 8c4b1966770db91dee057c8f04d50bd9 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-05-15 / CAPES - Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Esta dissertação analisa as relações entre os discursos da moda veiculados na imprensa e a construção dos estereótipos de gênero femininos, nos anos de 1960 a 1970, no Rio Grande do Sul. Para isso, foram analisadas as colunas de moda publicadas no jornal Correio do Povo e na Revista do Globo neste período, além de fotografias publicadas nestes veículos e também aquelas que evidenciam o cotidiano porto-alegrense. A partir dessas fontes buscou-se apresentar as principais tendências de moda divulgadas no Sul e como elas se relacionavam com os ideais de feminilidade vigentes. Procura-se entender de que maneira os discursos do sistema da moda atuavam na manutenção dos estereótipos de gênero e também na proposta de novos ideais de feminilidade. Como resultado, foi possível observar que estes veículos de imprensa optavam por divulgar tendências de moda relacionadas a um comportamento controlado das mulheres, associado à elegância, mantendo afastadas de suas publicações sugestões que poderiam apresentar formas consideradas mais liberais de movimento corporal e comportamental. / The current dissertation intends to analyze what are the associations between fashion speeches disseminated in the press and the production of female stereotypes, from 1960 to 1970, in Rio Grande do Sul. For that, I analyzed the fashion columns published in the newspaper Correio do Povo and in the magazine Revista do Globo during this period, along with photographs published in these means and also those that highlight Porto Alegre’s everyday life. Through these sources, it is meant to show the main fashion trends spread by these means of communication and how they relate with the time’s ideals of femininity. It was intended to understand in which way the speeches of fashion system acted in the maintenance of gender stereotypes and also in the purpose of new ideas of femininity. As a result, it is possible to observe that these vehicles opted by publishing fashion trends related to the controlled behavior of women, associated with elegance, keeping away from their publications suggestions that could present more liberal kinds of body and behavior movements.

Konsumentbeteende handlar om när, varför, hur och var människor gör ett inköp av en vissprodukt. Konsumenternas demografiska profiler är ett viktigt område inomkonsumentbeteende. När det kommer till frågan om shopping så förknippas ordet i stort settmed kvinnor. Samtidigt beskrivs ofta manligt konsumentbeteende från ett traditionelltperspektiv och skiljer sig från det kvinnliga köpbeteendet. De traditionella stereotyperna förmanligt konsumentbeteende är att män är mer benägna att ta risker när de handlar eftersom deinte brukar fråga personalen om hjälp eller åsikt, de jämför inte olika alternativ med varandra,de brukar inte planerar sina inköp, de är inte villiga att handla i grupp och är ”rädda” för atthandla i kvinnliga butiker.Eftersom könsrollerna kan ändras över tid är det viktigt att inom marknadsföring undersökakring dessa ämnen och inte ta de stereotypa könsrollerna förgivet. Ett bra exempel ärkvinnorollen som på senare tid förändrats på så vis att den gamla hemmafrurollen frångåttsalltmer. Den här studien har till syfte att beskriva konsumentbeteende för dagens yngre mänoch observera förändringar i manligt köpbeteende och likheter med kvinnligtkonsumentbeteende. Därmed är studiens hypotes enlig följande:H0 = Yngre män blir mer lika kvinnor i sitt shoppande (och har därmed blivit mindreriskbenägna, frågar andra om hjälp och jämför många alternativ med varandra).Studien har använt sig av en kvantitativ undersökning som besvaras av 48 män mellan 20 och30 år. Enligt svar från studiens respondenter kommer manligt konsumentbeteende alltnärmare det kvinnliga konsumentbeteendet. Resultatet visar att yngre män överlag har blivitmindre benägna att ta risker. De flesta brukar jämföra olika alternativ när de köper kläder,frågar andra om hjälp eller åsikt och har någon gång handlat från kvinnliga butiker. Samtidigthar utvecklingen bland studiens respondenter inte varit lika betydande när det gäller köp igrupp och planering av inköp. / Program: Civilekonomprogrammet

O objetivo deste trabalho é discutir a aplicação do Fluxo Unitário da Produção (FUP) no processo de fabricação do vestuário de moda, com ênfase em produtos de moda feminina. Para tanto, foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo, por meio de estudo de caso, em empresa do setor. O resultado da pesquisa mostra que, apesar das particularidades do setor, como o baixo volume de produção, curto ciclo de vida do produto e grande diversidade de modelos, a aplicação do Fluxo Unitário da Produção na manufatura do vestuário de moda indica uma possível otimização do processo produtivo, permitindo o balanceamento da linha de montagem e o dimensionamento da capacidade produtiva, fatores que minimizam os riscos de gargalos produtivos e auxiliam na elaboração do planejamento, programação e controle da produção. O presente estudo tem como objetivos específicos: i) pesquisar os processos de manufatura utilizada, ii ) focalizar as técnicas e processos produtivos aplicados nos produtos manufaturados; iii) caracterizar fisicamente a estrutura fabril e descrever os seus processos produtivos durante a manufatura dos produtos com a aplicação do fluxo unitário na Manufatura do Vestuário da Moda (MVM); iv) apontar sugestões de uso de novas ferramentas como a melhoria contínua do processo produtivo. As recomendações elaboradas são baseadas em levantamento bibliográfico e em estudo de caso na empresa fabricante de produtos por encomenda. Essas serão legitimadas por informações de especialistas no assunto e por funcionários da empresa estudada. Foi levantada até o momento presente a relação dos fornecedores externos e as suas capacidades instaladas que manufaturam os produtos vendidos, pois a Empresa A apontou a presença de gargalo produtivo por não conseguir entregar o volume produtivo solicitado. Embora o estudo esteja ocorrendo dentro do cronograma de execução, muitos dos conceitos e técnicas da produção enxuta são aplicáveis 7 nos ambientes produtivos de alta variedade da mesma família de produto, com baixo volume e pode contribuir de forma significativa para a melhoria do desempenho da empresa, para a melhoria contínua do processo, para a melhoria da competitividade e eliminação das perdas produtivas com indicadores de desempenhos nos setores envolvidos. Após a pesquisa com a aplicação do fluxo unitário da Manufatura do Vestuário da Moda na Empresa A, será verificada se a hipótese da aplicação do Fluxo Unitário da Produção, da indústria automobilística, é possível para a indústria do vestuário. Coletados os resultados dessa aplicação, após a análise dos dados e avaliação verificará se há aprovação da Manufatura do Vestuário de Moda (MVM) / The objective of this paper is to discuss the implementation of Flow Unit of Production in the manufacturing of fashion apparel process, with emphasis on women\'s fashion products. For this purpose, a field research was conducted through case study, in company of the sector. The survey results show that despite the particularities of the industry, such as production volume, short cycle product life and wide range of models, the application of Flow Unit of Production in the fashion garment manufacturing indicates a possible process optimization productive, allowing the assembly line balancing and capacity of the productive capacity, factors that minimize the risk of production bottlenecks and assist in the preparation of planning, scheduling and production control. This study has the following objectives: i) search the manufacturing processes used, ii) focus on the techniques and processes applied in manufactured products; iii) physically characterize the industrial structure and describe their production processes for the manufacture of products with the application of flow unit in Fashion Garment Manufacturing (MVM); iv) point out suggestions for the use of new tools such as the continuous improvement of the production process. The recommendations made are based on literature review and case study on the manufacturer of custom products. These will be legitimized by experts of information on the subject and by employees of the studied company. It has been raised to date a list of external vendors and their installed capacities to manufacture products sold, as the company \"A\" pointed out the presence of \"bottleneck\" productive for failing to deliver the production volumes requested. Although the study is taking place within the execution schedule, many of the concepts and techniques of lean manufacturing are applicable in production environments high variety of the same product family, with low volume and can contribute significantly to improving the company\'s performance, for continuous process improvement, to improve competitiveness and elimination of production 9 losses with performance indicators in the sectors involved. After research with the application of the unitary flow of Manufacture of fashionable clothes in the company in \"A\", will be checked the hypothesis of application of Flow Unit of Production, the automotive industry, it is possible for the clothing industry. Collected the results of that application, after the data analysis and evaluation check for approval of Manufacture of Fashionable Clothes

Made available in DSpace on 2014-07-29T16:27:45Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sejana de Pina Jaymell.pdf: 2874654 bytes, checksum: 434ea04be07cf81b7d7f5976415f5c29 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-06-28 / This dissertation tries to understand the possible meanings of the old objects stored in old boxes and trunks. Specifically, clothes. To this ending, the visuality of the family dresses is investigated from the knowledge, description and registration of their physical and material features, which are the basis of the analysis. The testimonies of the individuals involved in its making and its use, the quest for the historicity of each piece, as well as their typology, support the discussion of the various functions, that the artefact can assume: starting as biographical objects, the dresses change from this and the other functions determined by their creation, use and keeping. With the Camisa de Pagão, used on babies, the children's little dresses, the debut gown and the bridal gown, this search goes through the economic, social and affective issues triggered remembrance processes. / Este trabalho busca a compreensão dos possíveis sentidos dos objetos antigos guardados em caixas e baús, mais especificamente, roupas. Para tanto, os vestidos de família têm investigadas suas visualidades a partir do conhecimento, da descrição e do registro de suas características físicas e materiais, que são a base da análise. Os depoimentos dos sujeitos envolvidos em sua feitura e seu uso e a busca pela historicidade de cada peça, bem como de sua tipologia, dão suporte à discussão sobre as diferentes funções que a roupa pode assumir: objetos biográficos a princípio, os vestidos oscilam entre esta e outras funções, determinadas por sua criação, uso e guarda. Da camisa de pagão, usada em bebês, aos vestidinhos infantis e vestidos de debut e de noiva, a pesquisa passa pelas questões econômicas, sociais e afetivas, desencadeadas nos processos de rememoração.

Bakalauro darbas „Protėvių aidas” atspindi šių dienų aktualijas, paliesdamas visuomenei svarbų klausimą apie mūsų senovės baltų kostiumą. Nagrinėjamos aprangos dalys ir fragmentai šių dienų aplinkoje, aiškinamasi kaip baltiškumo simboliai atsispindi drabužių kolekcijose. Analizė buvo atliekama siekiant geriau susipažinti su senovės baltų apranga ir suprojektuoti moteriškų drabužių kolekciją. Pirmame skyriuje analizuojami baltų aprangos istoriniai ypatumai, moterų drabužiai, papuošalų nešiojimas kaip pagrindinis dekoro elementas. Antrame darbo skyriuje nagrinėjami archeologų, filosofų, menininkų pagrindimai, argumentai apie baltų kultūros problemas. Argumentuojami dizainerių pasisakymai apie baltiško kostiumo interpretavimą šiandien. Trečiajame skyriuje pateikiamos įvairios baltų kostiumo refleksijos lietuvių kostiumo dizainerių kūryboje, menininkų kūrybinių darbų pavyzdžiai, bei įvairių autorių sukurtos drabužių kolekcijos. Ketvirtame skyriuje pristatomi lininių drabužių ansamblių vizualūs baltiško kostiumo meniniai ieškojimai, formų, faktūrų, simbolių, kolorito ypatumų analizė, siekiant tai interpretuoti drabužių kolekcijoje, pagrindžiama idėja, pateikiami eskizai, projektai, technologiniai mėginiai, aprašomas drabužių ansamblių kūrimo procesas – konstravimas, modeliavimas, siuvimas. Pateikiamos įvykdytų drabužių modelių fotografijos ir numatomas kolekcijos pristatymas. Penktame skyriuje aptariamos sukurtos drabužių kolekcijos realizavimo galimybės, pateikiama... [toliau žr. visą tekstą] / The Bachelor’s Work “The Echo of the Ancestors” reflects the urgent problems of recent time. It touches upon a subject of the ancient Baltic costume. The parts and the fragments of the clothes are analyzed in the modern surroundings. It is explained how the Baltic symbols are reflected in the collections of clothes. Analysis was made in order to find out more information about the ancient Baltic clothes and to design the collection of female clothes. Historic features of the Baltic female clothes, wearing jewelry as the main element of decoration are analyzed in the first chapter of this work. The main arguments about the problems of the Baltic culture given by archeologists, philosophers and artists are given in the second chapter of this work. The designers’ attitude towards the modern interpretation of the Baltic costume is also disclosed here. Different reflections of the Baltic costume in the creative works of Lithuanian costume designers, the examples of creative works and collections of different authors are described in the third chapter. Presentation of the linen collection of clothes by showing artistic search for Baltic costume is given in the fourth chapter. There is also analysis of peculiarities of form, texture, symbols and colors in order to interpret it in the clothes collection there is a well-founded idea. Sketches, projects and technological samples are presented. The process of creation of clothes ensemble (construction... [to full text]

Išanalizuotos informacijos pagrindu sukurta 26 modelių drabuţių kolekcija „Mėnuo Sauluţę vedė“, iš kurių 4 pasiūti bei pagaminti jiems tinkantys aksesuarai. Kolekcija norima atkreipti dėmesį į senąjį tikėjimą, kultūrą, papročius ir suteikti galimybę XXI a. ţmogui iš naujo pajusti, kokia plona riba yra tarp realybės ir mitų. Sukurti 2 planšetai, kuriuose pristatoma kolekcija. Filmavimas ir fotosesija vykdyta kartu su ketvirto kurso audiovizualinio meno studentu Mantu Galvičiumi. Kolekcijos pristatymas vykdomas kartu su specialiai tam paruoštomis videoprojekcijomis ir erdvės ketimu videoinstaliacijos pagalba. / According to analyzed information the collection of 26 clothes was designed, 4 of them were sewn and appropriate accessory were made. The purpose of this collection is to attract the attention into old beliefs, culture, and custom and provide the possibility for 21st century human to find the slight boundary between the reality and myths. There were created 1 plane–table where the collection is represented. Filming and photos where made together with the 4th year student of audiovisual art Mantas Galvičius. The presentation of the collection is made with the help of special for this purpose created video-projections and space shifting video-installations.

This research explores the sensory marketing and more specifically the effect of the senses on consumers experience in the clothing distribution sector. The purpose of this paper is to understand if all the senses have an effect on the customer experience in clothing stores. To do this a primary quantitative data has been collected through a questionnaire from clothing store customers to assess the effect of different senses on their consumer experiences. The results obtained by the analyzing of the questionnaire through regression analysis concluded that there are two senses that really stand out of the lot, firstly the smell then secondly the sight.

This paper aims to describe the development of nurse uniforms in the Czech Lands since the beginnings of the nursing profession in the thirteenth century up to the present day. It is qualitative research,a historical data analysis. This paper outlines the development of nurse uniforms which is closely linked to the whole history of nursing care in our country. The paper is divided into two parts. The first one deals with regular uniforms of orders and congregations which have concerned themselves with nursing. The orders are arranged according to their beginnings of operation on our territory. Part two is dedicated to the actual garment of caregivers {--} nurses starting from the middle of the nineteenth century when the actual nursing profession originated and was closely linked with the name of Florence Nightingale.