The increasing ecological impact of textiles and textile overproduction creates both local and global environmental concerns. Through the theoretical framework of speculative realism and the concept of alienation this paper investigates how textile art can be used to discuss the dark emotions connected to climate change. The project uses a method of material exploration to find new life to waste material from textile industry in Sweden. Through the zombie metaphor the life and death of waste is discussed. The paper finds that by giving material new life, creating zombie weaves; the darkness within the topic can be reached. The tactile qualities of the work bridges to counteract the alienation created from the lack of insight and understanding of material values. The project finds that embracing the darkness and getting to know the monster can make room for new solutions to the ecological crisis.

BEGINNING MIDDLE AND is a project that takes a textile approach to explore repeated pattern and the ongoing. This paper, being a part of this project, is describing and discussing the potentiality of using notions such as softness, folds and ongoingness to widen the views on what a craft practice can be and do. This raises questions about the relevancy of ideas such as finished and the one piece, in a craft context. Based on the properties of a resist dyeing technique, the paper puts the fold in relation to pattern and modularity. It wants to discuss what a fold is and how ideas of folding and unfolding could engage with process based artistic work. Constantly shifting between perspectives and looking for overlaps, the text then touches upon paradoxes and dilemmas found when unfolding the systems and the unruliness that together form the work. Looking at acts of unfinishing, it tries to understand the fascination and the fear that is triggered by incompleteness. The beginning is a wish to enhance the complexity of my craft practice, and to expand the understanding of it. But realizing the difficulties in doing so, the reasoning eventually ends up at the challenging task to break free from your own habits, trying to find a new beginning.

Les fibres d'acide polylactique (PLA), issues de ressources agricoles renouvelables, ont suscité à leur apparition un grand intérêt car il s'agit de fibres ayant les avantages des fibres synthétiques. Or très vite des inconvénients sont apparus en particulier lors de leur teinture : elles se saturent très facilement conduisant a des nuances pastel et les solidités aux lavages des teintures sont médiocres. Nous avons vérifié que la cristallinité des fibres de PLA est du même ordre de grandeur que celle du polyester classique (55- au pire 60%). Par contre les traitements aqueux type teinture font croître cette cristallinité, peut-être par hydrolyse des zones amorphes. Mais la teinture est très rapide, ce qui signifierait que les zones amorphes sont à peine orientées ce qui est confirmé par RX (un fond continu vraiment plat) et de ce fait elles ne retiennent pas le colorant. Les isothermes d'adsorption montrent également qu'il n'y a pas d'adsorption mais « solution » puisqu'elles sont de type Nernst et que la fixation de colorant décroît avec la croissance de la température. En plus, à chaque traitement aqueux de la fibre est hydrolysée ce qui entraîne une perte de colorant et une réduction lente des propriétés mécaniques de la fibre. Ce dernier phénomène étant relativement long d'où nous avons formulé une hypothèse que l'hydrolyse des bouts de chaine serait plus rapide que celle des milieux de chaine. / The fibers of poly (lactic acid) (PLA), derived from annually renewable agricultural resources, had a great potential when they were first introduced into the market as they have the advantages of synthetic fibers, as well as they are biodegradable. Some current challenges and limitations associated with these new fibers have constrained their popularity, especially when they were dyed. They easily become saturated leading to pastel shades and their washfastness is poor. We verified that the crystallinity of PLA fibers is comparable to that of conventional polyester (55 - 60% at worst). However, this crystallinity has increased during the wet treatment, especially dyeing, which may be due to the hydrolysis of amorphous regions. Rapid stricke of the dye means that the amorphous regions are barely oriented (hence X-ray background intensity is really flat) and they do not retain the dye molecules.The adsorption isotherms also show that there is no adsorption but it is a "solution" as they are of the Nernst type and the dye fixation decreases with increasing temperature. But each wet treatment leads to a fiber hydrolysis which causes a loss of dye and a slow loss of mechanical properties of the fiber. The latter phenomenon is relatively long leading to a hypothesis that the hydrolysis by side-group elimination would be faster than the degradation of weak points in the macromolecular polymer chains.

In this study, the application of bipolar electrocoagulation (EC) with iron electrode has been assessed for color removal of simulated wastewater containing Reactive Red 195. The influence of initial pH, sodium sulfate concentration, initial dye concentration, electrolysis time, and electric current were examined. The optimum operational parameters were found to be pH =11, concentration of dye = 50 mg L-1, sodium sulfate concentration = 1200 mg L-1, electrolysis time = 5 min and electric current = 4 A. In such condition, color removal efficiency achieved over 99%. This result indicates that EC can be used as an efficient and “green” method for color removal from reactive dye solution. / Trong nghiên cứu này, quá trình khử màu nhuộm hoạt tính (Reactive Red 195) được khảo sát bằng hệ thống keo tụ điện hóa điện cực kép, với vật liệu sắt. Các yếu tố ảnh hưởng đến quá trình khử màu như pH, nồng độ màu nhuộm, nồng độ muối Na2SO4, thời gian phản ứng và cường độ dòng được lựa chọn nghiên cứu. Kết quả cho thấy hệ thống điện hóa trên loại gần như hoàn toàn màu nhuộm với hiệu suất đạt trên 99 % tại pH 11, nồng độ màu 50 mgL-1 và nống độ muối Na2SO4 1200 mgL-1 trong khoảng thời gian 5phút. Kết quả trên cho thấy keo tụ điện hóa có thể xem là một phương pháp xử lý hiệu quả và “xanh” trong việc loại bỏ hoàn toàn màu từ nước thải nhuộm hoạt tính.

This paper presents the result of dyeing solution coagulation with the use of ferrous ammonium sulfate hexah ydrate (FAS). The examined solution contains two reactive dyes: Black 5 and Blue 19. It has been shown that the efficiency of the dye removal depends on the type of dye, coagulation dosage and the initial pH. Our result showed that the increase of initial pH up to 12 enhanced the color removal efficiency; the FAS dose was 280 ml (Black 5) and 180 mg/l (Blue 19) at slow mixing time (15 min), agitation speed 60 rpm, and the initial dye concentration should be 50 and 100 mg/L for Black 5 and Blue 19, respectively. / Chất keo tụ sắt (II) amoni sulfate (FAS) được sử dụng khử màu của hai màu nhuộm hoạt tính phổbiến (Blue 19 và Black 5). Kết quả cho thấy, quá trình keo tụ bịảnh hưởng nhiều bởi loại màu nhuộm, nồng độ chất keo tụ và pH của dung dịch đầu vào. Với nồng độ FAS 280 mg/l (Black 5) và 180 mg/l (Blue 19), pH đầu vào dung dịch khoảng 12, thời gian phản ứng 15 phút, tốc độ khuấy 60 vòng/phút ứng với nồng độ màu Black 50 mg/L và blue 100 mg/L dung dịch gần như mất màu hoàn toàn.

The degradation of wool keratin under conditions relevant to those of wool dyeing was investigated using the techniques of gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ion exchange gel chromatography, and amino acid analysis. Physical testing of the treated and untreated wool was also carried out to determine the physical changes occurring, parameters used being percentage elongation at the break, and the breaking strain of the fibre. Samples of wool keratin were immersed in various aqueous solutions at 1000C for 24 hours and the filtered, aqueous, oxidised extracts were analysed* The solutions used varied only in the dye, or dye intermediate present in the treatment solution. All treatment baths contained 10% owf 1.02 x 10 -2 MSulphuric VI acid; 10%owf 7.04x 10 -3 MSodium sulphate VI ; A 100 :1 liquor ratio was used in each case. Some of the dye intermediates showed a marked catalytic effect, particularly in their effect on breaking strain, a decrease of 40% in some cases. The GPC profiles of the extracted proteins were examined in detail and compared against previous workers' results. An explanation of the behaviour of the dyes and intermediates was proposed. The amino acid composition data of the extracted and fractionated proteins were compared against various morphological components extracted by other workers, as was the total gelatin obtained from each treatment.

Thesis (M.A. (Hons.)) -- University of Western Sydney, 2003. / "A thesis presented to the University of Western Sydney in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts (Honours) Creative Arts, December 2003" Includes bibliography.

As indústrias têxteis possuem grande potencial poluidor pois geram grandes quantidades de efluentes contendo compostos recalcitrantes, incluindo corantes. Diversos processos tem sido empregados na descontaminação de efluentes industriais e estudos indicam a adsorção empregando resíduos agroindustriais como matrizes adsorventes como processos promissores na remoção de cor. Neste contexto, o presente trabalho teve como objetivo avaliar a casca de amendoim como adsorvente alternativo no processo de remoção de corante têxtil (Reactive Blue 203) em meio sintético e de efluente industrial. Para isso, foram realizadas análises de caracterização do material adsorvente, revelando elevadas quantidade de fibras (69,25%), dentre elas os polissacarídeos (glucana e xilana) e de lignina (39,4%). A biomassa apresentou um pHpcz de 6,9, a microscopia eletrônica de varredura demonstrou que sua superfície é altamente porosa e a análise da superfície especifica por BET, indicou uma área superficial de 0,4431 m2.g-1 e diâmetro médio de poro de 20,120 Å na biomassa moída com tamanho de partícula de 0,250 mm. Um Delineamento Composto Central Rotacional 23 foi empregado para avaliar e definir as melhores condições de processo, sendo estudadas a influência dos parâmetros pH, temperatura da solução e granulometria do adsorvente sobre a capacidade de remoção de cor de efluente sintético (Reactive Blue 203). As variáveis pH e temperatura apresentaram influência significativa no processo de remoção de cor e como melhores condições de processo foram definidos pH de 3,0, temperatura de 30o C e granulometria de 0,250 mm. O tempo de equilíbrio foi alcançado após 400 minutos de contato. O modelo cinético de pseudo-segunda ordem foi o que melhor descreveu o processo de adsorção. As isotermas de adsorção foram avaliadas a partir dos modelos matemáticos de Langmuir e Freundlich, sendo que o modelo de Langmuir foi o que melhor descreveu o processo. Os parâmetros termodinâmicos indicam que a energia livre de Gibbs apresenta valores positivos indicando que o processo não é espontâneo. Valores negativos da entalpia sugerem uma natureza exotérmica da adsorção e valores negativos da entropia indicaram um aumento no grau de organização do sistema. A energia de ativação do processo de adsorção do corante sobre matriz a estudada, indicam uma adsorção química ativada. A casca de amendoim demonstrou ter potencial de remoção de cor em efluente industrial (66,83%), o que pode ser melhorado empregando condições de processos mais específicas. Por outro lado, a reutilização do material não foi ótima nas condições de dessorção empregas devendo ser melhor avaliado devido à natureza química da adsorção. / The textile industries have great potential for pollutants because they generate large quantities of effluents containing recalcitrant compounds, including dyes. Different processes have been employed in the decontamination of industrial effluents and studies indicate the adsorption using agroindustrial residues as adsorbent matrices as promising processes in the removal of color. In this context, the present work had the objective of evaluating peanut shell biomass as an alternative adsorbent in the process of dye removal (Reactive Blue 203) in synthetic and industrial effluent. For this, characterization analyzes of the adsorbent material were performed, revealing a high amount of fibers (69,25%), among them polysaccharides (glucan and xylan) and lignin (39,4%). The biomass showed a pHzcp of 6,9, the scanning electron microscopy demonstrated that its surface is highly porous and the BET specific surface analysis indicated a surface area of 0,4431 mg.g-1 and mean pore diameter of 20,120 Å in ground biomass with a particle size of 0,250 mm. A 23 central composite rotational design was use to evaluate and define the best process conditions, studing the influence of the parameters pH, solution temperature and adsorbent granulometry on the color removal capacity of synthetic effluent (Reactive Blue 203). The pH and temperature variables showed a significant influence on the color removal process and, as the best process conditions, pH of 3,0, temperature of 30oC and particle size of 0,250 mm were define. The equilibration time was reach after 400 minutes of contact. The kinetic model of pseudo-second order was the one which best described the adsorption process. The adsorption isotherms were evaluate from the mathematical models of Langmuir and Freundlich, and the Langmuir model best described the process. The thermodynamic parameters shown that Gibbs free energy presents positive values, indicating that the process is not spontaneous. Negative enthalpy values suggest an exothermic nature of the adsorption and negative entropy values indicate an increase in the degree of organization of the system. The activation energy of the dye adsorption process on the studied matrix indicates an activated chemical adsorption. The peanut hulls showed potential for color removal in industrial effluent (66,83%), which can be improved by employing more specific process conditions. On the other hand, the reutilization of the material was not optimal under the desorption conditions because the chemical nature of adsorption.

Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is the most used fibre in the textile industry. PET is also used in other products, e.g. soft-drink bottles and food packaging. Approximately 60% of the globally produced PET is intended for production of textile fibres and the demand for polyester fibres have steadily increased over the last decade. Yet, most of the recycled PET fibres are produced from discarded bottles and not discarded textiles even though the generation of textile waste is increasing year by year. The importance of finding efficient recycling routes for discarded PET textiles is obvious. In thermo-mechanical recycling the thermoplastic characteristic of PET is utilized to re-melt and re-form PET waste into new valuable products. Today, this is used for bottle-to-fibre recycling but not for fibre-to-fibre recycling. The main research question asked in this Master thesis is if the process of exhaust dyeing compromise the possibility to recycle PET textiles through remelt spinning. It is believed that PET degradation through hydrolysis may occur during dyeing. The degradation behaviour of PET has been widely studied. However, degradation during exhaust dyeing has not been investigated.   The process parameters temperature, time and number of dyeing cycles have been investigated. Also, possible effects of different auxiliary chemicals have been studied. Dyeing and characterisation of two PET fabrics with filaments of different titer was performed in order to investigate if the filament titer is also a parameter to consider.   Tensile testing and surface characterisation through demand absorbency test showed that the filament titer seems to affect how the tensile and moisture related properties change due to dyeing. Differential scanning calorimetry showed that the crystallisation rate is affected by the dyeing process. This can be an effect of formation of shorter PET chains during dyeing. The auxiliary chemicals have been shown to be the most critical factor in changes of the crystallisation behaviour. Fourier-Transform infrared spectroscopy indicated that chain scission has occurred during dyeing.   The results have shown that the exhaust dyeing process causes changes in tensile properties, moisture related properties, degree of crystallinity as well as crystallisation behaviour. DSC and FTIR results indicate chain scission. Based on the results it cannot be concluded if the changes are large enough to compromise the possibility to recycle PET textiles thermo-mechanically. Further research is required in order to correlate the observed changes with possible problems in thermomechanical recycling of dyed PET textiles.

CAPES; Fundação Araucária / A caulinita é um argilomineral empregado em diversos setores industriais e, em decorrência da elevada disponibilidades na crosta terrestre são realizadas modificações químicas para a obtenção de diferentes estruturas do material buscando ampliar sua utilização. Foram realizadas ativações com ácidos fosfórico e sulfúrico nas concentrações de 5 e 10 mol L-1, e tratamentos térmicos em 850, 1100 e 1200 ºC visando a aplicação deste argilomineral na adsorção do corante têxtil Reactive Blue 203. As amostras foram caracterizadas por Difratometria de Raios X (DRX), Espectroscopia na Região do Infravermelho com Transformada de Fourier (FTIR), Análise Termogravimétrica (TGA), Análise Térmica Diferencial (DTA) e Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura (MEV). Nos espectros de FTIR das amostras calcinadas houve o desaparecimento das absorções características da hidroxila, além do surgimento de vibrações atribuídas a metacaulinita, que é formada a partir da calcinação da caulinita. Pelo DRX foi possível confirmar as alterações da estrutura, pois o difratograma apresentou característica de material amorfo quando calcinado em 850 °C, enquanto que nas temperaturas de 1100 e 1200 °C o material voltou a apresentar estrutura cristalina, devido a formação da mulita. Essas modificações também são evidentes na análise térmica, sendo que o evento ocorrido na curva termogravimétrica entre 420 ºC e 700 ºC refere-se à desidroxilação do material e consequentemente, à formação da metacaulinita. Já a análise térmica diferencial apresentou um pico exotérmico na região de 1000 ºC, correspondendo à conversão da metacaulinita em mulita. Entretanto, a análise de MEV não demonstrou mudanças na morfologia do material. O ponto de carga zero obtido para a caulinita foi de 4,41, correspondendo ao valor de pH em que a carga superficial é zero, sendo que em valores de pH superiores a este a caulinita estará mais propícia a adsorver substâncias catiônicas e em valores de pH inferiores, aniônicas. A caulinita apresentou maior quantidade de sítios ácidos, uma vez que ambas as análises resultaram em valores de pH inferiores a 7, característicos de argilominerais com estrutura lamelar, devido a presença das hidroxilas internas e do alumínio, uma vez que trata-se de um aluminossilicato. No teste de adsorção com o corante têxtil Reactive Blue 203 a caulinita sem tratamento se sobressaiu perante as demais amostras, com melhor ajuste da isoterma de Sips e cinética de pseudo-segunda ordem. Os parâmetros termodinâmicos indicam que se trata de um processo espontâneo e endotérmico e evidenciam que ocorre uma adsorção química. / The kaolinite is a clay mineral used in several industrial sectors and, due to the high availability in the earth's crust, chemical modifications are made to obtain different structures of the material in order to expand its use. Activations were carried out with phosphoric and sulfuric acids at concentrations of 5 and 10 mol L-1, and thermal treatments at 850, 1100 and 1200ºC for the application of this clay in the adsorption of Reactive Blue 203 textile dye. The samples were characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), Differential Thermal Analysis (DTA) and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). In the FTIR spectra of the calcined samples, the characteristic hydroxyl absorptions disappeared, as well as the appearance of vibrations attributed to metacaulinite, which is formed from calcination of kaolinite. By XRD, it was possible to confirm the changes in the structure, since the diffractogram showed a characteristic of amorphous material when calcined at 850 °C, while in the temperatures of 1100 and 1200 °C the material returned to present crystalline structure, due to the formation of the mullite. These changes are also evident in the thermal analysis, and the event occurring in the thermogravimetric curve between 420 ºC and 700 ºC refers to the dehydroxylation of the material and, consequently, to the formation of metakaolin. The differential thermal analysis showed an exothermic peak in the region of 1000 ºC, corresponding to the conversion of metacaulinite to mullite. However, SEM analysis did not show changes in material morphology. The zero charge point obtained for kaolinite was 4.41, corresponding to the pH value at which the surface charge is zero, and at pH values higher than that kaolinite will be more propitious to adsorb cationic substances and in values of pH lower, anionic. The kaolinite presented higher amount of acidic sites, since both analyzes resulted in pH values lower than 7, characteristic of clay minerals with lamellar structure, due to the presence of internal hydroxyls and aluminum, since it is an aluminosilicate. In the adsorption test with the Reactive Blue 203 textile dye, the untreated kaolinite stood out in the other samples, with better adjustment of the Sips isotherm and pseudo second order kinetics. The thermodynamic parameters indicate that it is a spontaneous and endothermic process and evidence that a chemical adsorption occurs.