Denna uppsats syftar till att utforska vilka textilfibrer och färgningsmetoder som har låg miljöpåverkan och hur dessa ska införas i modeindustrin. För att undersöka detta har jag använt intervju och tematisk analys som metod där jag intervjuat två forskare, en återvinningsanläggning och två modeföretag. Drivkrafter och hinder som driver på och försvårar användning av miljövänligare textilfibrer och färgningsmetoder belyses där ett stort hinder för cirkulärt mode är ekonomi där företag och kunder tjänar mer på billigare och sämre textilfibrer samt färgningsmetoder. Ett alternativ för att sänka kostnaden är subventioner eller skatteavdrag på miljömärkta kläder i butik samt skattepålägg på syntetkläder som säljs. Modeindustrin är den näst mest förorenande industrin efter oljeindustrin med 10% av världens koldioxidutsläpp. Textilindustrin är en av tio industrier som förbrukar mest vatten. Sverige är en stor aktör i modebranschen där flera svenska företag är etablerade internationellt och samtidigt ses som en representant för cirkulärt mode. Internationellt är polyester den vanligaste använda textilfibern idag och svenska företag går emot normen förde använder främst bomull som är en förnybar textilfiber. Användning av hållbara textilfibrer är större än hållbara färgningsmetoder i Sverige men en väletablerad modekedja har utvecklat miljövänligare färgningsmetoder med sina leverantörer. Slutsatser jag dragit är att återvunna och cellulosafibrer kommer öka i framtiden samt att ekonomiska incitament är viktiga för miljöarbete med textilfibrer och färgningsmetoder. Kunskap och information är också en viktig komponent för att göra miljövänliga val i modeindustrin. / This essay aims to explore which textile fibers and dyeing methods have a low environmental impact and how these will be introduced in the fashion industry. I have used interview and thematic analysis as a method to investigate this area where I have interviewed two scientists, one recycling facility and two fashion companies. Drivers and obstacles that drives and complicates utilization of more environmentally friendly textile fibers and dyeing methods are casted light on, where a big obstacle for circular fashion is economy where companies and customers earn money on cheaper and inferior textile fibers and dyeing methods. An option to lowering the cost is subsidies or tax deductions for environmentally marked clothes in stores and tax additions for synthetic clothes which is for sale. The fashion industry is the most polluting industry after the oil industry with 10% of the carbon emissions in the world. The textile industry is one of ten industries which consumes the most water. Sweden is a large actor in the fashion industry with several international established Swedish companies and is seen as a representative of circular fashion at the same time. The most common textile fiber today is polyester but Swedish companies foremost utilize cotton which is a renewable textile fiber. Utilization of sustainable textile fibers is more common than sustainable dyeing methods in Sweden, but a well-established fashion chain has developed more environmentally friendly dyeing methods with their suppliers. Conclusions I have made are that recyclable and cellulosic fibers will increase in the future and economic instruments are crucial for the environmental work with textile fibers and dyeing methods. Knowledge and information are also important components to make environmentally friendly choices in the fashion industry.

High-performance yarns such as aramid fibers are nowadays used to reinforce composite materials due to their advantageous physico-chemical properties and their low weight. They are also resistant to heat and fire. Para-aramid filament yarns (p-AFs) wound on a cylindrical dyeing package have been silvered successfully by means of a newly developed wetchemical filament yarn metallization process on a laboratory scale. The surface morphology of untreated and silvered p-AF was determined by means of scanning electron microscopy. The chemical structure of the surfaces (contents of carbon, oxygen, nitrogen and silver) was determined by means of energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDX). The eliminated and newly formed groups of p-AF before and after silvering were detected by infrared spectroscopy (Fourier transform—attenuated total reflectance). After metallization, the silver layer thickness, the mass-related silver content and washing and rubbing fastness were assessed. Furthermore, textile-physical examinations concerning Young’s modulus, elongation at break and electrical conductivity were performed. Subsequently, the electrically conductive p-AFs were integrated in thermoset composite materials reinforced by glass fibers and para-aramid.

Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / Microspectrophotometry is a quick, accurate, and reproducible method to compare colored fibers for forensic purposes. The use of chemometric techniques applied to spectroscopic data can provide valuable discriminatory information especially when looking at a complex dataset. Differentiating a group of samples by employing chemometric analysis increases the evidential value of fiber comparisons by decreasing the probability of false association. The aims of this research were to (1) evaluate the chemometric procedure on a data set consisting of blue acrylic fibers and (2) accurately discriminate between yellow polyester fibers with the same dye composition but different dye loadings along with introducing a multivariate calibration approach to determine the dye concentration of fibers. In the first study, background subtracted and normalized visible spectra from eleven blue acrylic exemplars dyed with varying compositions of dyes were discriminated from one another using agglomerative hierarchical clustering (AHC), principal component analysis (PCA), and discriminant analysis (DA). AHC and PCA results agreed showing similar spectra clustering close to one another. DA analysis indicated a total classification accuracy of approximately 93% with only two of the eleven exemplars confused with one another. This was expected because two exemplars consisted of the same dye compositions. An external validation of the data set was performed and showed consistent results, which validated the model produced from the training set. In the second study, background subtracted and normalized visible spectra from ten yellow polyester exemplars dyed with different concentrations of the same dye ranging from 0.1-3.5% (w/w), were analyzed by the same techniques. Three classes of fibers with a classification accuracy of approximately 96% were found representing low, medium, and high dye loadings. Exemplars with similar dye loadings were able to be readily discriminated in some cases based on a classification accuracy of 90% or higher and a receiver operating characteristic area under the curve score of 0.9 or greater. Calibration curves based upon a proximity matrix of dye loadings between 0.1-0.75% (w/w) were developed that provided better accuracy and precision to that of a traditional approach.

PhD (Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Applied and Computer Sciences), Vaal University of Technology. / Water is a basic resource to mankind. The environment is deteriorating daily due to industrial pollution of water resources. Industrial effluents containing organic pollutants such as dyes are undesirable even at low concentrations in the environment. Natural biomaterials have been applied as adsorbents for dye removal from water systems, however, their application has been limited by their low adsorption capacity. Much attention has been focused on the chemical modification of natural biomass via grafting processes. The modification of natural polymers by graft copolymerization is a promising technique since it functionalizes a biopolymer thus imparting desirable properties. The purpose of the study was to prepare and optimize the working conditions for the pine-magnetite bionanocomposites (PMC) as adsorbents and as photocatalysts modifiers. First, this work focuses on the synthesis and optimization of reaction variables in the preparation of PMC for the removal of methylene blue (MB). The thesis also explores the synthesis of acrylamide and acrylic acid-grafted PMC, resulting in the formation of acrylamide-grafted PMC (GACA) and acrylic acid-grafted pine-magnetite bionanocomposites (GAA), respectively. The grafting of functional groups such as –CO, –NH2 onto cellulose from acrylamides is also explored in detail. The adsorption conditions optimized were used to investigate the adsorption efficiency of GAA and GACA on MB. Finally, the application of PMC and GAA as modifiers for amorphous TiO2 and N-doped TiO2was carried out. The photocatalytic bionanocomposites from PMC (namely PMC–a-C,TiO2 and PMC–a-C,NTiO2) and those from GAA (labeled GAA–a-C,TiO2 and GAA–a-C,NTiO2) are compared by their photocatalytic efficiency on the degradative removal of an alkaline dye mixture formed from Reactive red 120 (RR 120) and Rhodamine B (Rh B). The synthesis procedure for PMC involved treating pinecone biomass with 0.15 M NaOH solution to remove unwanted plant extracts and the subsequent coating of the treated pinecone with iron oxide magnetic particles through a co-precipitation method. The variables used for the experiments were volume of NH4OH (5 to 40 cm3), reaction temperature (40 to 100 °C), effect of time (15 to 60 min) and mass (1.0 to 3.5 g). The PMC and acrylic acid grafted pine-magnetite composite (GAA) were probed for structural morphology and surface properties using various surface characterization instrumental techniques. Strong chemical interactions between pinecone magnetite and acrylic acid were demonstrated by thermogravimetric (TGA), differential thermal analysis (DTA) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) for these unique bionanocomposites as such suggesting high chemical stability. Grafting acrylic acid was shown by XPS to form polyacrylic acid on the surface of the bionanocomposites and thus capping the surface groups. Significant differences in size were shown by transmission electron spectroscopy (TEM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM); i.e., smaller particle sizes (Ave = 13.0 nm) for GAA and slightly larger for PMC (Ave = 14.0 nm). Brunauer Emmett Teller (BET) surface analysis demonstrated a larger surface area, pore volume and pore diameter (59.9 m2.g-1, 0.2254 cm3.g-1 and 28.14) for GAA compared to PMC. These characteristics coupled with the point of zero charge for GAA (pHpzc = 6.8) were critical in enhancing the efficiency of GAA adsorption of MB at pH 12 and further enable GAA to have a higher desorption efficiency of up to 99.7% after four cycles of washing with 0.10 M HCl. The adsorption kinetics and isotherm studies indicated that the adsorption process follows the pseudo second order kinetics and Langmuir isotherm respectively. The adsorbent also showed improvement in the adsorption capacity and reusability promising to be used for the removal of dyes in a prototype scale. GAA and MB adsorption mechanism was confirmed to be through intra particle diffusion. The overall performance of the GAA bionanocomposites is hinged on the formation of polyacrylic acid on the surface, its structural morphology, and the enhanced surface properties. Most importantly, the plant-based materials (lignin and cellulose) provide an environment that is rich with surface (–COOH and –OH) groups for the attachment of the magnetite nanoparticles while the polyacrylic acid stabilizes the magnetite onto the pinecone nanoparticles while reducing the point of zero charge for increased adsorption of cationic species. The photocatalytic bionanocomposites were fabricated from the adsorptive bionanocomposites using a simple solgel process in which ~10 wt.% of PMC and GAA, respectively, were used as a starting agent. Titanium butoxide was used as a precursor, acetylacetone as a dispersant and ethylene diamine as a nitrogen source. Using this procedure, amorphous carbon-doped titania (a-C,TiO2) and amorphous carbon and nitrogen co-doped titania (a-C,NTiO2) were fabricated except that the biopolymer was not added. Two sets of amorphous titania bionanocomposites were fabricated. One set was the nitrogen doped forms that had been modified with PMC and GAA (PMC–a-C,TiO2 and GAA–a-C,NTiO2). The other set of photocatalytic bionanocomposites produced in this work were without nitrogen (PMC–a-C,TiO2 and GAA–a-C,TiO2). TEM and SEM micrographs showed that all the photocatalysts consisted of globular, smooth aggregates of nanosized a-CTiO2 and a-C,NTiO2 which decreased in size with N-doping and the incorporation of GAA and PMC to as low as <30 nm. Surface chemical analysis through FTIR, XPS and EDS confirmed the presence of C, O, Ti and N (for the N-doped photocatalysts). In addition, it was demonstrated that N-doping into TiO2 had taken place, albeit with most of the N incorporated as organic nitrogen. It was further demonstrated that because of the absence of high temperature calcination, the process chemicals played a significant role in doping the photocatalysts with carbon resulting in the promotion of photocatalytic activity for a-C,TiO2 to the point of surpassing that of, a-C,NTiO2 and all the PMC-modified photocatalytic bionanocomposites. a-C,TiO2 had an overall 94% removal of the dyes, Rhodamine B (RhB) and Reactive red 120(RR 120), under UV illumination. The benefit of co-doping a-TiO2 with C, N and the biopolymers was realized with the incorporation of GAA as a modifier. The result was 97% removal of the dyes by GAA–a-CTiO2 and 99% for GAA–a-C,NTiO2. It was further observed that the degradation of the binary mixture of the dyes (RhB and RR 120) proceeded through the zero order kinetics for the a-C,TiO2 based photocatalysts and first order kinetics for the N-doped photocatalysts. The work, has, therefore demonstrated the applicability of plant-based biopolymers in the fabrication of nanoadsorbents and nanophotocatalysts. While the photocatalytic degradations were carried out under UV-light, there still remains a number of possible avenues that researchers can build on to improve the visible light-driven photocatalytic bionanocomposites. The research work has proven the effectiveness of novel pinecone magnetic nanoparticle materials and TiO2-based photocatalyst for the degradation of undesirable dyes from wastewater.

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This thesis explores the history of botany as a global collection-based science by tracing parallels between utopian traditions and botanical collecting, from their sixteenth-century beginnings to the present. A range of botanical collections, such as gardens, herbaria and classification systems, have played a central role in the struggle to discover a global or universal scientific order for the chaotic, diverse and locally shaped kingdom of plants. These collections and utopia intersect historically, and are characterised by the same epistemology of collecting: the creation of order through confined collecting spaces or “no-place.” They are manipulations of space and time. Between chaos and order, both seek to make a whole from – often unruly – parts.   The long history of botanical collecting is characterised by a degree of continuity of practice that is unusual in the sciences.  For instance, the basic technology of the herbarium – preserving plants by mounting and labelling dried specimens on paper – has been in use for almost five centuries, from sixteenth-century Italy to ongoing digitisation projects. The format of the compilation thesis is well-suited to handling the historiographical challenge of tracing continuity and discontinuity with such a long chronological scope.   The thesis is structured as a walled quadripartite garden, with the Kappa enclosing four research papers and an epilogue. The papers take a diachronic approach to explore different perspectives on botanical collections: botanical collecting in seventeenth-century Oxford, pressed plants in books that are not formally collections; and the digitisation of botanical collections. These accounts are all shaped by the world of books, text and publication, historically a male-dominated sphere. In order to acknowledge marginalisation of other groups and other ways of knowing plants, the epilogue is an explanation of an embroidered patchwork of plant-dyed fabric, which forms the cover of the thesis. / Denna avhandling behandlar historien om botanik som en global samlingsbaserad vetenskap genom att följa paralleller mellan utopiska traditioner och botaniskt samlande från dess början på femtonhundratalet till idag. Olika sorters botaniska samlingar, till exempel trädgårdar, herbarier och klassifikationssystem, har historiskt spelat en central roll i sökandet efter en global eller universell vetenskaplig ordning i växtrikets lokalt rotade och till synes kaotiska mångfald. Det finns historiska kopplingar mellan dessa botaniska samlingar och utopi, som båda även präglas av vad man kan kalla samlandets epistemologi: skapandet av ordning genom avgränsade samlingsutrymmen eller ”icke-platser”. De är manipulationer av tid och rum.   Det botaniska samlandets långa historia utmärks av en praktisk kontinuitet som är ovanlig inom naturvetenskapen. Herbariets grundläggande teknik att bevara växter genom att pressa, identifiera och montera dem på pappersark har varit i bruk i nästan fem sekel. Avhandlingen utnyttjar sammanläggningsformatet för att hantera den historiografiska utmaning det innebär att studera en så lång tidsperiod, genom att de ingående artiklarna behandlar skilda tidsepoker och disciplinära perspektiv samtidigt som de alla delar avhandlingens centrala tematik: ordnande genom avgränsade samlingsutrymmen.     Avhandlingens struktur är baserad på den muromgärdade fyrdelade trädgården, med kappan som inneslutande fyra artiklar och en epilog. Artiklarna är diakrona analyser av botaniska samlingar: om samlande i Oxford på sextonhundratalet, om pressade växter i böcker som inte formellt utgör del av samlingar, och om digitaliseringen av botaniska samlingar. Dessa sammanhang är alla formade i en värld av böcker, text och publicering – en värld som historiskt har dominerats av män. Epilogen belyser den marginalisering av andra grupper och deras kunskaper om växter som detta har inneburit, genom att förklara avhandlingens omslag, ett lapptäcksbroderi av växtfärgade tyger. / <p>QC 20171115</p> / Saving Nature: Conservation Technologies from the Biblical Ark to the Digital Archive

In this diploma thesis, the properities of brewery’s yeasts during the operation beer fermentation in the selected brewery and dependences of diferent agents and their influence on viability and vitality of the yeasts were studied. Other observed properities were physiological state, pH, temperature, a value of soft and coarse sludges, a value of dissolved oxygen in wort, the level of wort’s fermentation. It were collected the samples of fermenting wort and washing yeasts for determination. The used yeasts were observed from the first time until thein last used (generally 4 times). pH, temperature, apparent fermenting and total numer of yeast cells were measured in the collected samples. The used yeasts were washed before every other application and vitality was determined. The number of death cells were observed by this method. The number of death cells never fell bellow 5 %. The value of dissolved oxygen in wort is also the important agent for the growth of yeasts. The touchs with low number of oxygen showed that the time for fermentation had to be longer (by about 3 or 4 days more). The touchs with higher number of sludges showed that the sludges haven’t any influence on the yeasts and the procces of fermentation. Confirm the accuracy of the repeated used of the yeasts was the object of this thesis.