This case study examines how luxury fashion brands communicate their sustainability practices on the brands' sustainability page on the company's website and whether selected luxury fashion brands are greenwashing and bluewashing. The luxury brands selected for this study are Stella McCartney and Gucci, on the grounds that both brands have different types of businesses and approaches. To understand the context, this study uses the triple bottom line sustainability concept by Elkinton (1998), sustainable luxury fashion brands (Godart & Seong ,2017; Wiedmann et al., 2009; Joey et al.,2012; and Franco et al. 2019), greenwashing concept by Delmas & Burbano (2011) and bluewashing concept (Sailer et al., 2022). To conduct the analysis, this study uses textual, eco-lexicon categorization developed by Thomas (2008) and the categorization from Milanesi et al. (2022) is adapted for visual analysis and the sins of greenwashing by Terra Choice (2010) to see the potential of greenwashing. The results shows that Stella McCartney and Gucci sustainable communication serves as their marketing strategy which encourage purchase and therefore it is problematic. Both brands use vague, ambiguous words, terms, and certifications and lack of transparency. While the images are not yet seen as a potential tool to communicate sustainability initiatives. Even though the brands are known as sustainable fashion brands, the result demonstrates brands show irrelevancies and paradoxes between what the brands communicate and their actual practices ; therefore show potential greenwashing and bluewashing.

Made available in DSpace on 2010-04-20T20:14:57Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 61070100629.pdf: 39793 bytes, checksum: fe00be3f55de5409c675f0284098e467 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-12-21T00:00:00Z / O luxo pressupõe uma hierarquia social e a moda serve como ferramenta para aplicação desta distinção. A maneira como a pessoa se veste reflete a sua personalidade, posição econômica e social. A posse de bens de luxo serve para diferenciá-la daqueles que não podem consumi-los e a marca, como referência para o usuário. A transformação das marcas de moda de luxo de pequenos negócios familiares para empresas com presença mundial, aumentou o nível de competitividade entre elas, levando-as a ampliação dos seus mercados. O Brasil, junto a outros países emergentes, figura como mercado chave neste crescimento. O mercado de luxo vem despertando a atenção do meio acadêmico. A presente dissertação tem o objetivo de estudar a identidade e a imagem da Louis Vuitton, marca líder deste mercado no mundo, e assim contribuir para o avanço deste estudo. O estudo valeu-se de pesquisa exploratória qualitativa e utilizou uma amostra de profissionais e consumidores de marcas de moda de luxo, com três fontes de evidência: consulta a publicações relacionadas ao tema, entrevistas em profundidade e observação sistemática. Os resultados apontam para características que definem o comportamento do consumidor de luxo em relação às marcas de moda de luxo internacionais e os fatores que os levam a preferi-las ou rejeitá-las. Também evidencia diferenças entre a identidade e a imagem da Louis Vuitton no Brasil, mercado relativamente jovem em relação ao consumo de luxo. / Luxury stands for social hierarchy and fashion can be used as the too1 to reach this social distinction. The way a person is dressed reflects its personality and social and economical position. Owning luxury goods differentiates the ones who can afford it of those who cannot and the brand works as a reference for the user. The luxury fashion brands changed from small familiar companies to enterprises with global presence, which increased the competition level between them. and forced them to expand their markets. Brazil. along with other emerging countries, has become a key market for this expansion. The luxury market is getting more attention among marketing researchers. This research has the goal of studying the identity and image of Louis Vuitton, the luxury market leading brand, contributing for studies of this subject. The research was based on a qualitative approach, using three sources of information: desk research, in-depth interviews with professionals and consumers of luxury fashion brands, and observation. The results point to facts that lead consumers to choose a brand or reject it. The research unveiled a difference between Louis Vuitton's identity and image. due to Brazilian's market young stage on luxury consumption.

Denna studie har undersökt cancelkulturen på sociala medier och hur detta påverkar företag respektive influencers. Syftet var att identifiera och skapa bättre förståelse för konsumenters interaktioner efter en varumärkesskandal och således jämföra konsekvenserna för de olika typerna av varumärken. Genom dessa insikter ämnar studien att öka kunskapen kring hur företag och influencers borde förebygga och hantera kriser. I undersökningen användes metoder av både kvalitativt och kvantitativt slag. En enkät med 200 respondenter genomfördes, där frågor kring användandet och agerandet på sociala medier samt deras inställningar till olika typer av skandaler besvarades. Efter insamlat material från enkäten skapades en fokusgrupp med sex respondenter, där kompletterande frågor ställdes och djupare diskussioner hölls. Resultaten från undersökningarna analyserades och kategoriserades för att belysa likheter och skillnader, dels mellan respondenternas interaktion gentemot varumärken efter en skandal, dels hur konsekvenserna ser ut för företag respektive influencers. Vi kunde utifrån resultatet identifiera att influencer drabbas hårdare av skandaler. De ansågs enklare att byta ut, då deras innehåll främst är underhållningsbaserat och utbudet av underhållning redan är stort. Företag, till skillnad från influencers, visade sig svårare att ta avstånd från, då motsvarigheter i utbud upplevdes besvärligt att finna, vilket ledde till att deras vanor övervann moralen. Influencer marketing som marknadsföringsmodell har börjat ifrågasätts på grund av misstro och brist på genuinitet, vilket hotar hållbarheten av affärsmodellens och branschens framtid. / This study has investigated the cancel culture on social media and how this affects companies and influencers respectively. The aim was to identify and create a better understanding of consumer interactions after a brand scandal and thus compare the consequences for the different types of brands. Through these insights, the study aims to increase knowledge about how companies and influencers should prevent and manage crises. Both qualitative and quantitative methods were used in the investigation. A survey with 200 respondents was conducted, where questions about the use and actions on social media as well as their attitudes to different types of scandals were answered. After collecting material from the survey, a focus group was created with six respondents, where supplementary questions were asked and deeper discussions were held. The results from the surveys were analyzed and categorized to highlight similarities and differences, partly between the respondents' interaction with brands after a scandal, partly how the consequences affect companies and influencers respectively. Based on the results, we could identify that influencers are more negatively affected by scandals. They were considered easier to replace, as their content is mainly entertainment based and the range of entertainment is already large. Companies, unlike influencers, proved more difficult to disassociate from, as equivalents in supply were perceived as difficult to find, which led to their habits overcoming morality. Influencer marketing as a marketing model has begun to be questioned due to distrust and lack of authenticity, which threatens the sustainability of the business model and the future of the industry.

[pt] Os pontos de venda (PDV) de empresas de moda compreendem dimensões que se ampliam para além da venda de produtos ou das características do espaço físico. A presente pesquisa reafirma a dimensão social desses ambientes e ressalta que neles configura-se um tipo de experiência, de caráter tanto individual quanto social, também relacionada com a dimensão emocional e simbólica, dada pela construção/expressão de significados que se apresenta nas relações de valor dos indivíduos com as marcas em nossa sociedade industrial-capitalistacontemporânea. Soma-se ainda, a esse complexo contexto, o caráter interdisciplinar do Design do PDV (Saddi, 2008) identificado pelas interfaces entre um conjunto de projetos de várias áreas de conhecimento, tais como: design, arquitetura, publicidade, branding e marketing. O objeto da atual pesquisa consiste nas articulações e novos conhecimentos gerados no contexto interdisciplinar dos projetos para PDV, identificados em projetos para flagship stores, concept stores e pop-up stores de marcas de varejo de moda. Através de nossa pesquisa qualitativa, realizada por meio de entrevistas com especialistas e observações diretas, além da pesquisa bibliográfica e documental identificamos nesse contexto a presença de novos conhecimentos e práticas, tanto para o design quanto para a arquitetura que, por sua vez, apontam para a formação de uma nova área de conhecimento e especialização neste campo. / [en] Points of purchase (POP) for fashion companies comprise dimensions that extend beyond the sale of products or the characteristics of the physical space. This research reaffirms the social dimension of these environments and emphasizes that on them is configured a kind of experience, both individual and social character, also related to the emotional and symbolic dimensions, given by the construction/expression of meanings that appears in the value relations of individuals with the brands in our contemporary-capitalist-industrial-society. In this complex context, is added: the interdisciplinary character of the POP Design identified by the interfaces between a set of projects in various areas of knowledge, such as design, architecture, advertising, branding, management and marketing. The object of this research are the joints and new knowledge generated in the interdisciplinary context of projects for POP, identified in flagship stores, concept stores and pop-up stores for fashion retail brands. Through our qualitativeresearch, conducted by interviews with experts and direct observations, in addition to literature and documents, we identified that this context demonstrates the presence of new knowledge and practices, both for design and for the architecture, which indicates the formation of a new area of knowledge and expertise in this field.