The textile and fashion industry is known for its globalized value chain and the numerous negative environmental impacts it entails. Textile production in Sweden was common until the 1970 ´s, when the production moved to other countries to achieve cost benefits. Today, over 80% of the clothing and home textiles that are consumed in Sweden, is produced in countries not belonging to the European Union. Aside from long transport distances, these countries often have a lack of environmental legislation. This study examines experts in the textile and fashion industry, fashion companies and a manufacturing company with the help of qualitative semi-structured interviews to identify fashion companies' attitude to establishing part of their production in Sweden. In addition to this, the study aims to investigate the conditions required for production in Sweden to be economically and environmentally sustainable, in order to shed light on, and contribute to, knowledge about the conditions required to enable Swedish production in the fashion industry. The results of the study identify economic- and production capacity as two of the biggest challenges in relation to Swedish-produced fashion. Concurrently, several economic- and environmental aspects, technical development and automation are highlighted as opportunities by both experts, fashion companies and the manufacturing company. The study's respondents consistently show a positive attitude towards Swedish production, yet attention is drawn to a wait-and-see attitude among the fashion companies towards establishing part of their production in Sweden.

This work describes industrial and knight family Bartoň from Dobenín situated on the castle Nové Hrady. I concentrated on the lifetime history of some important members of this family from the begining to the end of the 20th century. A special focus has been given on the castle Nové Hrady, which is extraordinary architectural jewel, situated in the Czech Republic. The castle Nové Hrady is connected with some important names, for example Jan Ludvík and Jan Antonín Harbuval de Chamaré or architect Josef Jäger and others. There is another important family of Čerych. The current owners Mr. and Mrs. Kučera are trying to bring back its previous glance. Were the members of the Bartoň family from Dobenín different from the ordinary people living in that time? Has the knighthood changed them in some way? You can find the answers in this work. Keywords: castle Nové Hrady, Harduval de Chamaré, Bartoňs from Dobenín, textile production, history, family of Čerych, Mr.and Mrs. Kučera, Náchod, benefactor

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-25T20:22:49Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Geraldo Adriano Godoy de Campos.pdf: 823036 bytes, checksum: 5361a0d8654a8e9dcfd3a49b314e3088 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-06-16 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This research aims at answering the follow question: how does the production of subjetivity happen in the context of bolivian immigrant labor in the sweatshops in São Paulo? The theme is relevant, considering the conditions of labor exploitation of the bolivian immigrants. The sweatshops in which the exploitation takes places are hired by large brands of the textile industry, through the process of outsourcing. The element of differentiation of this research is present in the theoretical approach itself, since it does not take the concept of identity as an analytical reference. The proposal of this work is to develop the perspective in which the production of subjectivity is not something given a priori, as an immutable essence. Neither is it individual. The subjectivity, composed by heterogeneous elements, is produced in the social sphere. The four plans that are considered as the variables of the research are: labor conditions; legal and political dimension; sociospatial dynamics of the textile production in the city; the functionality of the exploitation of immigrant labor em relation to the selective permeability of the national borders. The methodological approach is qualitative. The techniques used in the research were the interviews and participant-observation, that happen in São Paulo, La Paz (2007 and 2008) and Buenos Aires. The research has also benefit itself from the ethnographic experience from the past years. The results announced suggests that the reproduction of the situation of irregularity, determined by the anachronism of the brazilian legislation, strengthens the construction of an immigrant-illegal-slave-identity that directely affects the production of subjectivity of the bolivian immigrants in São Paulo / Este trabalho busca responder à seguinte questão-problema: de que forma se dá a produção de subjetividade no contexto do trabalho de imigrantes bolivianos nas oficinas de costura em São Paulo? O tema é relevante, considerando as condições de exploração de trabalho às quais estão submetidos os imigrantes. As oficinas nas quais a exploração ocorre são subcontratadas por grandes marcas da indústria têxtil, por meio de práticas terceirizadas. O diferencial da pesquisa demonstra-se na própria abordagem, que não assume o conceito de identidade como referencial de análise. Trabalha-se com a perspectiva de que a subjetivação (ou produção de subjetividade) não é algo dado a priori, essência imutável e tampouco é individual. A subjetividade, composta por elementos heterogêneos, é fabricada no registro do social. Os quatro planos considerados como as variáveis da pesquisa são: condições de trabalho, plano político-jurídico, dinâmica sócio-espacial da produção têxtil na cidade e a funcionalidade da exploração de mão-de-obra imigrante face à porosidade seletiva das fronteiras nacionais. Utiliza-se metodologia de vertente qualititativa. As técnicas utilizadas foram entrevistas e observação-participante, realizadas em São Paulo, na Bolívia (em 2007 e 2008) e em Buenos Aires. A pesquisa também beneficiou-se da experiência etnográfica realizada nos últimos anos. Os resultados anunciados sugerem que a reprodução da situação de irregularidade, condicionada pelo anacronismo da legislação brasileira, reforçam a construção de uma identidade-imigrante-escravo-ilegal que afeta diretamente a produção de subjetividade dos bolivianos

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T14:57:41Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Geraldo Adriano Godoy de Campos.pdf: 823036 bytes, checksum: 5361a0d8654a8e9dcfd3a49b314e3088 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-06-16 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This research aims at answering the follow question: how does the production of subjetivity happen in the context of bolivian immigrant labor in the sweatshops in São Paulo? The theme is relevant, considering the conditions of labor exploitation of the bolivian immigrants. The sweatshops in which the exploitation takes places are hired by large brands of the textile industry, through the process of outsourcing. The element of differentiation of this research is present in the theoretical approach itself, since it does not take the concept of identity as an analytical reference. The proposal of this work is to develop the perspective in which the production of subjectivity is not something given a priori, as an immutable essence. Neither is it individual. The subjectivity, composed by heterogeneous elements, is produced in the social sphere. The four plans that are considered as the variables of the research are: labor conditions; legal and political dimension; sociospatial dynamics of the textile production in the city; the functionality of the exploitation of immigrant labor em relation to the selective permeability of the national borders. The methodological approach is qualitative. The techniques used in the research were the interviews and participant-observation, that happen in São Paulo, La Paz (2007 and 2008) and Buenos Aires. The research has also benefit itself from the ethnographic experience from the past years. The results announced suggests that the reproduction of the situation of irregularity, determined by the anachronism of the brazilian legislation, strengthens the construction of an immigrant-illegal-slave-identity that directely affects the production of subjectivity of the bolivian immigrants in São Paulo / Este trabalho busca responder à seguinte questão-problema: de que forma se dá a produção de subjetividade no contexto do trabalho de imigrantes bolivianos nas oficinas de costura em São Paulo? O tema é relevante, considerando as condições de exploração de trabalho às quais estão submetidos os imigrantes. As oficinas nas quais a exploração ocorre são subcontratadas por grandes marcas da indústria têxtil, por meio de práticas terceirizadas. O diferencial da pesquisa demonstra-se na própria abordagem, que não assume o conceito de identidade como referencial de análise. Trabalha-se com a perspectiva de que a subjetivação (ou produção de subjetividade) não é algo dado a priori, essência imutável e tampouco é individual. A subjetividade, composta por elementos heterogêneos, é fabricada no registro do social. Os quatro planos considerados como as variáveis da pesquisa são: condições de trabalho, plano político-jurídico, dinâmica sócio-espacial da produção têxtil na cidade e a funcionalidade da exploração de mão-de-obra imigrante face à porosidade seletiva das fronteiras nacionais. Utiliza-se metodologia de vertente qualititativa. As técnicas utilizadas foram entrevistas e observação-participante, realizadas em São Paulo, na Bolívia (em 2007 e 2008) e em Buenos Aires. A pesquisa também beneficiou-se da experiência etnográfica realizada nos últimos anos. Os resultados anunciados sugerem que a reprodução da situação de irregularidade, condicionada pelo anacronismo da legislação brasileira, reforçam a construção de uma identidade-imigrante-escravo-ilegal que afeta diretamente a produção de subjetividade dos bolivianos

Vatten är en av jordens livsviktiga resurser, en resurs som hela tiden minskar. I delar av världen råder akut vattenbrist och ofta återfinns industrier med hög vattenanvändning i områden med begränsad vattentillgång. En av dessa industrier är textilindustrin. Vid textil beredning är vattenförbrukningen mycket hög och avloppsvattnet är ofta mycket förorenat. Vattenfrågorna inom textil produktion har fram till idag inte uppmärksammats i lika stor grad som arbetsrätts- och kemikaliefrågorna. Dock är det den just nu den störst växande frågan och antas bli lika stor som de två nämnda föregångarna.Denna kandidatuppsats är delvis skriven för Gina Tricots räkning och för deras del i vatteninitiativet Sweden Textile Water Initiative, (STWI). STWI är en sammanslutning av ett 30-tal svenska textil- och läderföretag som tillsammans arbetar för att uppmärksamma vattenfrågorna i produktionen och skapa verktyg inför ett förbättringsarbete. Gina Tricot ingår i arbetsgruppen som undersöker lagar i produktionsländerna. Gina Tricots land är Turkiet, som blivit vår bas för denna uppsats.Uppsatsen redogör för vattenåtgång i de vanligast förekommande våtprocesserna i de turkiska fabriker som vi besökt och vilka lagar och regleringar som styr producenterna i landet. Vi har även skapat ett förslag för hur Gina Tricot ska implementera STWI:s guideline som färdigställs 2012.Vid en kontinuerlig process är vattenåtgången betydligt mindre än vid en diskontinuerlig process. Den mest vattensnåla processen är den halv-kontinuerliga. All dosering, av såväl kemikalier som färg, bör vara automatisk för att minska risken för överdosering och onödiga utsläpp. Överloppssköljningar är mycket vattenslösande och det mest effektiva är motströmssköljningar. Som produktutvecklare bör skillnader i vattenåtgången för olika färgämnen finnas i åtanke vid val av material och utseende på produkten.1983 infördes den första turkiska miljölagen. Lagen reviderades 2006 för att anpassas till EU:s lagstiftning. Turkiet har ett stort antal vattenlagar som reglerar allt som innefattar vatten, inom alla områden. Lagarna styr bland annat i vilka mängder textilproducenter får släppa ut olika ämnen i vattendrag. Idag är det främst lagarna The Law on Environment, Urban Wastewater Treatment och Water Pollution Control som styr turkiska textilproducenters vattenhantering.Water is one of earth's vital resources, a resource that is constantly decreasing. In some parts of the world there is acute water scarcity and industries with high water use are often found in areas with limited water availability. One of these industries is the textile industry. The water consumption in textile finishing is very high and the wastewater is often very highly polluted. Water issues in the textile industry have to this date not received as much attention as labor and chemical issues. However, it is the currently the largest growing issue and is expected to be as great as its two predecessors.This report is in part written on behalf of Gina Tricot and for their part in Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI). STWI is an association of some 30 Swedish textile and leather companies that are working together to draw attention to water issues in production and create tools for improvement. Gina Tricot is included in the working group that examines laws in producing countries. Gina Tricot’s country is Turkey, which has become the base for this thesis.The thesis describes the water consumption of the most common wet processes in the Turkish factories, that we have visited, and what laws and regulations that govern the producers in the country. We have also created a suggested implementation of STWI’s water management guideline, for Gina Tricot.The water consumption is significantly less in a continuous process than in a discontinuous process. The most water-efficient process is the pad-batch. All dosing of chemicals and dyes should be automatic in order to reduce the risk of overdosing and avoidable emissions. Overflow rinse are highly water-wasting and the most effective rinse is counter flow. Product developers should be aware of the differences in water consumption for various dyes when selecting materials and appearance of the product.In 1983 the first Turkish environmental law was established. It was amended in 2006 to conform to EU legislation. Turkey has a large number of water laws that regulate everything that includes water, in all areas. The laws governing, inter alia, the volumes of various substances textile producers can emit into watercourses. These three laws are primarily governing Turkish textile producers’ water management: The Law on Environment, Urban Waste Water Treatment and Water Pollution Control. / Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen

This thesis consists of three parts: The first and second parts focus on long-time asymptotics of macroscopic and kinetic models respectively, while in the third part we connect these regimes using different scaling approaches. (1) Keller–Segel-type aggregation-diffusion equations: We study a Keller–Segel-type model with non-linear power-law diffusion and non-local particle interaction: Does the system admit equilibria? If yes, are they unique? Which solutions converge to them? Can we determine an explicit rate of convergence? To answer these questions, we make use of the special gradient flow structure of the equation and its associated free energy functional for which the overall convexity properties are not known. Special cases of this family of models have been investigated in previous works, and this part of the thesis represents a contribution towards a complete characterisation of the asymptotic behaviour of solutions. (2) Hypocoercivity techniques for a fibre lay-down model: We show existence and uniqueness of a stationary state for a kinetic Fokker-Planck equation modelling the fibre lay-down process in non-woven textile production. Further, we prove convergence to equilibrium with an explicit rate. This part of the thesis is an extension of previous work which considered the case of a stationary conveyor belt. Adding the movement of the belt, the global equilibrium state is not known explicitly and a more general hypocoercivity estimate is needed. Although we focus here on a particular application, this approach can be used for any equation with a similar structure as long as it can be understood as a certain perturbation of a system for which the global Gibbs state is known. (3) Scaling approaches for collective animal behaviour models: We study the multi-scale aspects of self-organised biological aggregations using various scaling techniques. Not many previous studies investigate how the dynamics of the initial models are preserved via these scalings. Firstly, we consider two scaling approaches (parabolic and grazing collision limits) that can be used to reduce a class of non-local kinetic 1D and 2D models to simpler models existing in the literature. Secondly, we investigate how some of the kinetic spatio-temporal patterns are preserved via these scalings using asymptotic preserving numerical methods.

Zu Beginn des Forschungsvorhabens wurden im Rahmen der Teilprojekte B1 und B2 des SFB 532 alkalibeständige Glas- und Carbonrovings eingesetzt, die zu offenmaschigen 2D-Textilien verarbeitet wurden. Untersuchungen des Verbund- und des Tragverhaltens der Verstärkungsstrukturen in Pull-Out- und Dehnkörperversuchen haben gezeigt, dass das Potential der Verstärkungsfasern aufgrund einer unvollständiger Durchtränkung der Bewehrung nicht vollständig ausgeschöpft werden kann. Auch Defizite bei der Produktionstechnik wurden erkannt und für zukünftige Entwicklungen analysiert. Um das Potential der verwendeten Verstärkungsfaser vollständiger auszuschöpfen, wurden innovative Garnkonstruktionen, die sich positiv auf den inneren und/oder den äußeren Verbund auswirken, entwickelt und erprobt. Anhand von Versuchsreihen auf der Textilebene wurden unterschiedliche Textilparameter, wie Art der Bindung, Gittergröße und Wirkfadenspannung, identifiziert, die unmittelbar die Tragfähigkeit der Verbundbauteile beeinflussen. Für die gängigen Produktionstechniken Laminieren, Gießen, Spritzen, Schleudern und Extrudieren wurden entsprechende Bewehrungskonstruktionen abgeleitet, die den Anforderungen des jeweiligen Prozess angepasst wurden. Ein weiterer Punkt der Forschungsaktivitäten stellte die Entwicklung der Maschinentechnik zur Herstellung von Verstärkungstextilien dar. Am Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) der RWTH Aachen University wurde in Zusammenarbeit mit Industriepartnern ein Maschinenkonzept entwickelt und umgesetzt, das die Herstellung von 3D-Abstandsgewirken mit einer freien Gestaltung der Deckflächen mit marktrelevanten Produktionsgeschwindigkeiten ermöglicht. Zur gezielten Einstellung der Wirkfadenspannung wurde ein Regelungssystem konzipiert und technisch umgesetzt, mit dem eine reproduzierbare Fertigung von textilen Verstärkungsstrukturen möglich wird.

Textil- och klädindustrin är identifierad som en av dem största bidragande faktorerna som frigör växthusgaser över hela världen. Produktionen har en lång och komplex försörjningskedja vilket redan från råvaruutvinning släpper ut enorma mängder växthusgaser. Den här kandidatuppsatsen går igenom hela försörjningskedjan för hemtextilsektorn vad gäller olika processer från fiber till färdiga produkter och deras miljöpåverkan. Den undersöker miljöpåverkan från olika stadier i textilprodukters livscykel från vaggan till graven. Uppsatsen belyser också konceptet och principerna för mätning av koldioxidavtryck, vatten och energianvändning för hemtextilprodukter, metoder för att mäta det och dess tillämpning i textilförsörjningskedjan. I produktens livscykelanalys beräknas avtrycket från resursutvinning (vagga) till fabriksporten (grind), i de faserna inkluderas försörjning av fiber, trim och förpackning, textilbearbetning, transporter i produktion, lagring och förpackning, samt distribution. Syftet med arbetet är att beräkna koldioxidavtryck, vatten- och energianvändning och jämföra mellan två påslakanset i 100% bomull tillverkade i två olika länder. Studien ämnar ge en bättre förståelse kring koldioxidutsläppen och miljöpåverkan som dessa produkter frigör under produktion. För att senare kunna jämföras, analyseras och föreslå eventuella förbättringar för att minska produktionens utsläpp. / The textile and clothing industry has been identified as one of the biggest contributing factors to greenhouse gas emissions worldwide. Production has a long and complex supply chain, which already emits enormous amounts of greenhouse gases from raw material extraction. This bachelor's thesis goes through the entire supply chain for the home textile sector in terms of various processes from fiber to finished products and their environmental impact. It examines the environmental impact from different stages in the life cycle of textile products from the cradle to the grave. The thesis also highlights the concept and principles for measuring carbon footprint, water and energy use for home textile products, methods for measuring it and its application in the textile supply chain. The product life cycle analysis calculates the footprint from resource extraction (cradle) to the factory gate (gate), in which phases supply of fiber, trim and packaging, textile processing, transport in production, storage and packaging, and distribution are included. The purpose of the work is to calculate the carbon footprint, water and energy use and compare between two duvet cover sets in 100% cotton made in two different countries. The study aims to provide a better understanding of the carbon dioxide emissions and environmental impact that these products release during production. In order to later be able to compare, analyze and suggest possible improvements to reduce production emissions.