La Spectrométrie de Masse d'Ions Secondaires à Temps de Vol (ToF-SIMS) permet la caractérisation de l'extrême surface à haute sensibilité via la détection d'ions secondaires atomiques et moléculaires. Ces travaux ont visé à étudier son application pour l'analyse de textiles industriels auxquels ont été conférées des propriétés dermatologiques (cosmétotextiles). Trois démarches analytiques adaptées aux spécificités des agents actifs et des technologies utilisées ont été présentées. Elles ont nécessité un développement particulier des méthodes employées (étude préliminaire, calibration, traitement et interprétation des données) et de tenir compte des possibilités et des limites de la technique ou de l'appareillage utilisé dans le contexte particulier de l'analyse des fibres textiles (topographie, effet de charge localisé, contaminations, formulations complexes, ségrégation et concentration de certains constituants des traitements en extrême surface).Dans la première démarche, la cartographie chimique ToF-SIMS a été utilisée avec succès pour illustrer l'existence d'un gradient de concentration en agent actif près de l'extrême surface de matrices polyamides. La capacité à identifier les signatures caractéristiques des agents actifs et valider leur présence en surface des échantillons textiles a pu être confirmée dans la majorité des cas. Cependant l'utilisation de signatures différentes de celles de l'agent actif a été nécessaire pour valider la présence de traitement dans le cas des textiles traités par co-précipitation. Enfin, un protocole de décapage doux a été testé pour faire face au problème particulier du recouvrement des textiles industriels par des apprêts siliconés / Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) allows the characterization of the outermost surface with high sensitivity by mass detection of atomic and molecular secondary ions. The objective of this work was to study its application in the context of the analysis of industrial textiles on which dermatological properties are given (cosmetotextiles). Three analytical approaches based on the specific properties of the active agents and technologies are presented. They required peculiar developments of methods (preliminary study, calibration, data processing and interpretation ...) and to consider the possibilities and limitations of the technique or the equipment in the particular context of these textile fibers analysis (topography, localized charge effect, contamination, complex formulations, segregation and concentration of some components from the treatments at the outermost surface ...).In the first approach, ToF-SIMS chemical mapping was used to successfully illustrate an active agent concentration gradient close to the outermost surface of polyamide matrices. The ability to identify the characteristic signatures of active agents and to validate their presence at the surface of textile samples was confirmed in most cases. However, signatures different from those from the active agent were needed to validate the treatment in the case of textiles treated by co-precipitation. Finally, a gentle sputtering protocol was tested to address the particular issue of industrial textiles covered with silicone based textile finishing

The thesis deals with general attitudes toward advertising and their influence on the effect of television advertising in the selected target group. The theoretical section explains communication and advertising, attitudes, their function, changes and formation and also focuses on attitudes towards advertising and their impact on the effectiveness of advertising. In the practical part, there was done my own research on the advertising of cosmetic products and the target group of women. The methodology description is followed by secondary and primary research into general attitudes towards advertising and the effect of selected ads on cosmetics in the target group. In conclusion, the analysis of relationship between attitudes on advertising and advertising effects was done, the results were evaluated and possible implications for practice were suggested.

This thesis is interested in the elements which search for the information about the place of French companies on the cosmetic market in China. It begins with the first part of theoretical research, followed by analyses of the cosmetic industrial, French and Chinese cosmetic market. Finally two examples of French companies (L'Oréal, L'Occitane en Provence) are analysed, which present on the Chinese market. The subject of this thesis is not to judge or valid whether the market or the strategy is correct, but to bring information and comparison of French companies on the Chinese market.

Hlavním cílem této diplomové práce je kritická analýza strategie společenské odpovědnosti (CSR) firmy Lush Cosmetics Limited (Lush) a objevení vztahu mezi CSR aktivitami a konkurenceschopností. Teoretická část práce představuje teorie soutěže a koncept společenské odpovědnosti. Následuje diskuze studií vztahu dlouhodobé konkurenceschopnosti firmy and složek CSR. Analytická část zjišťuje CSR aktivity společnosti Lush pomocí hybridu Porterovy analýzy hodnotového řetězce a obsahové analýzy hlavních komunikačních kanálů společnosti. Teoretické závěry z první kapitoly posloužily jako základ pro konstrukci online dotazníkového šetření na téma zákaznické percepce CSR a společnosti Lush. Autor kriticky hodnotí CSR strategii Lushe, diskutuje průsečíky mezi CSR, zákazníky a konkurenceschopností, a taktéž poukazuje na možná zlepšení.

Les premières cultures cellulaires végétales in vitro ont été développées à partir de carotte, grâce à Gautheret en 1939. Il a obtenu ce résultat par la découverte au préalable du pouvoir de totipotence des cellules végétales (Haberland 1902). Afin d’obtenir les cellules indifférenciées Gautheret a utilisé des milieux de culture contenant des macroéléments (K, N et P), des microélements (Mg, B,…), des vitamines, du sucre et des phytohormones. Dans la littérature, plusieurs compositions sont souvent utilisées comme White (1934), Murashige and Skoog (1962)) ou Gamborg, Miller et Ojima (1970). Les nuances entre ces milieux se basent sur des concentrations modifiées en phosphates, nitrates ou en phytohormones (auxine/cytokinine). Chaque espèce a besoin d’un milieu particulier pour induire la callogénèse. En effet, selon l’origine (géographique) et le type d’explant (feuilles, racines, tiges,…) traité les conditions d’induction de la callogénèse varieront. De nombreuses personnes portent un intérêt aux cultures cellulaires pour leur utilisation en cosmétique ou en pharmacie. Actuellement, deux entreprises produisent ces cellules à l’échelle industrielle. Ainsi, Phyton Biotech (entreprise allemande) purifie du taxol à partir d’If (Taxus baccata) et Mitsui petrochemical produit de la skinonine à partir de grémils (Lithospernum erythrorizon). / The first plant cell culture has been developed by Gautheret in 1939 based on carrot plant cell tissus. He obtained these results through the discovery of the plant totipotency power (Haberland, 1902). He used for cal production a culture medium composed by macroelements (K, N, P…) and microelements (Mg, B …), vitamin, sugar. Later on, several mediums were used like and described in literature i.e. Murashige and Skoog (1962), White (1934) or Gamborg, Miller and Ojima (1970). The differences between such medium consisted mainly concentrations especially of phosphates, nitrates or auxin/cytokinine balance. However, each species needs specific medium for growth. Any people works of this subject and the interest for pharmaceutical and cosmetical industry grow up. Plant cell culture is a difficult technology an industrial use. Recently, two companies performed industrial production of taxol (Taxus baccata) and shikonin (Lithospernum erythrorizon) respectively PhytonBitotech and Mitsui petrochemical. My thesis work was to develop plant cell cultures fom unusual plants which can be used for the industrial production of cosmetics.

In the context of the world's increasing environmental challenges and the rise of green consumerism, promoting sustainable consumer behavior is more important than ever. This study aims at extending the understanding of consumers' purchase  intention of  environmentally friendly cosmetic products. With a theoretical starting point in theories of green promotion and the theory of planned behavior, a total of ten hypotheses and sub-hypotheses were formulated to answer the research question how green promotional cues can be used to affect consumers' beliefs and increase purchase intention. Central concepts in the study’s constructed conceptual framework are intrinsic cues which represent concrete characteristics of a product such as ingredients and formula, and extrinsic cues which are attributes not present within the product itself such as packaging and brand. A quantitative approach using an online survey in an experimental vignette designed questionnaire generated responses from a sample of 325 participants in three treatment groups, and the data was subsequently examined through statistical analysis. The study’s main findings show that intrinsic cues have a stronger influence on purchase intention than extrinsic cues but that extrinsic cues seem to have a stronger influence on consumers’ subjective beliefs. The study provides implications on how cosmetic companies can use the insights generated by the study when developing promotional strategies for green cosmetics.

Studiens huvudsakliga syfte är att undersöka svenska konsumenters förhållningssätt, kännedom och informationssökning om kemikalier i kosmetiska produkter samt hur utbrett fenomenet kemofobi, den irrationella rädslan för kemikalier är. Framförallt har en kvantitativ ansats tillämpats i studiedesignen. Empirin samlades in med en webbaserad enkät som besvarades av 221 personer. Sociala bakgrundsfaktorer har ställts mot huvudvariablerna för att upptäcka möjliga samband. Respondenternas svar redovisas i resultatet med tabeller och grafer och jämförs sedan med en rad olika tidigare studier inom ämnet. Vårt resultat ger en indikation för förhållningssätten bland kvinnor, personer i medelåldern och högutbildade eftersom detta var den mest övervägande gruppen av våra respondenter. Resultatet indikerar på att det finns både en medelnivå av kemofobi och toxikologisk kunskap hos respondenterna. Det finns en negativ förknippning till begreppet kemikalier och riskmedvetenheten av kosmetiska produkter är inte speciellt utbredd. Sedan framgick även att informationssökningen kring innehållet i kosmetika är komplex då innehållsförteckningen som tillhandahålls till konsumenter är bristfällig i att kommunicera risker på ett lättförståeligt sätt. Därför behöver riskkommunikationen ses över för kosmetiska produkter men även att de ska riskbedömas och märkas likt andra produkter utan något undantag i kemikalieregleringen. Detta är ytterst viktigt för att säkerställa medvetna inköpsval och skydd av hälsa och miljö. / This study’s main purpose is to investigate Swedish consumers’ approaches, knowledge and how they search for information concerning chemicals in cosmetics as well as how widespread the phenomenon chemophobia, the irrational fear of chemicals, is. A mainly quantitative approach has been applied in the design of the study. Empirical data was collected with a web-based survey resulting in 221 respondents. Sociodemographic factors were connected to the main variables with the purpose of discovering possible correlations. The answers from the respondents are presented in the result with tables and graphs and then compared with several different studies on the subject. Our result indicates the views among women, middle-aged and people with higher education due to this being the most prevalent group of our respondents. The result indicates that there is a medium level of both chemophobia and toxicological knowledge among the respondents.There is a negative association with the word chemicals and the risk awareness for cosmetic products are not that widespread. Furthermore, it appeared that the information search concerning the contents of cosmetics are complex because the table of content that is provided to consumers is lacking in communicating risks in an understandable manner. Therefore, the risk communication concerning cosmetics should be evaluated and the products should also undergo the same risk assessments and labelling equal to other consumer products without exceptions in regulation. This is of outmost importance to ensure conscious purchasing behaviour and protection of health and the environment.

La pandemia del Covid-19 ha acelerado la transformación digital, dando impulso a las empresas en la innovación de herramientas digitales para su adaptación a un nuevo escenario, con ello consideramos relevante estudiar las variables que determinan un impacto a las nuevas adaptaciones digitales en el sector belleza. La presente investigación tiene como objetivo analizar Ewom y Relative advantage en relación al trust y Attitudes towards online shopping en la categoría de cosméticos de color en el e-commerce. La investigación será de tipo cuantitativo con un estudio de alcance transversal y carácter correlacional. Para ello, se trabajará con una muestra de 400 encuestas a un segmento de mujeres de 18 a 30 años de edad que residan en la ciudad de Lima Metropolitana y utilicen la compra online de cométicos de color. Las respuestas realizadas estarán en una escala de likert del 1 a 7 puntos de medición y la determinación de instrumento será la de adaptación.Asimismo, se analizará a través de ecuaciones estructurales y se utilizará el programa SPSS para su medición. / The Covid-19 pandemic has accelerated the digital transformation, giving impetus to companies in the innovation of tools for their adaptation to a new scenario, with this we consider it relevant to study the variables that determine an impact to new digital adaptations in the beauty sector. The objective of this research is to analyze Ewom and relative advantage in relation to trust and attitudes towards online purchases in that of color cosmetics in electronic commerce. The research will be quantitative with a cross-sectional study and correlational nature. To do this, a sample of 400 surveys will be carried out on a segment of women between 18 and 30 years of age who reside in the city of Metropolitan Lima and use the online purchase of colored cosmetics. The responses are made on a Likert scale of 1 to 7 measurement points and the instrument will be determined by adaptation. Likewise, it will be analyzed through structural equations and the SPSS program will be used for its measurement. / Trabajo de investigación

maquillaje; Youtube; youtubers; videos; audiovisual; consumo / El maquillaje nos ha acompañado durante muchos siglos, es pieza fundamental en la belleza y nunca pasará de moda. Pero en estos últimos años nadie imaginó que cobraría mucha fuerza. Su consumo empezó a ser mayor en todos los continentes al igual que la aparición de nuevas marcas cosméticas. Y todo esto se dio gracias a los videos tutoriales de maquillaje que ofrece Youtube. Las youtubers que son parte de este sector ahora colaboran como nueva imagen en la venta de productos cosméticos. El contenido audiovisual que ofrecen estos youtubers ha generado un gran impacto en el público latinoamericano que si revisamos a detalle los porcentajes de consumo, termina en un pronóstico ascendente para los próximos años. / Makeup has been with us for many centuries, it is a fundamental piece in beauty and will never go out of style. However, in recent years, no one imagined that it would gain so much importance. Its consumption began to be bigger in all continents as well as the birth of new cosmetic brands. And all of this was thanks to the makeup tutorial videos that YouTube offers. The youtubers that are part of this sector now collaborate as a new image in the sale of cosmetic products. The audiovisual content offered by these youtubers has generated a great impact on the Latin American public that if we review the consumption percentages in detail, ends in an upward forecast for the coming years. / Trabajo de investigación

Le Vietnam est un marché très potentiel pour les marques de soin de la peau. Dans le prémium segment, les produits importés prennent la part totale du marché avec une croissance annuelle de 18 à 35 % dans ces dernières années 2010-2014 (Euromonitor 2015). Dans ce secteur, le seul terme commun utilise ‘mỹ phẩm cao cấp’ (prémium cosmétique) implique les marques de luxe (ex : Clinique, Estée Lauder, Lancôme, Sisley, Shiseido, SKII, Menard, Ohui…) et les marque non-luxe mais haut de gamme (ex : Vichy, Dr.Spiller, Swissline, Dermalogica, Tenamid…). Jusqu’à maintenant, le segment de luxe a bien été abordé, pourtant le segment de haut de gamme ne fait pas encore l’attention des chercheurs. A côté, les vietnamiens par tradition mènent une vie simple et modeste, ce qui est à l’encontre du phénomène de consommation ostentatoire des produits de luxe qui a été largement discuté dans les pays émergeants. Par conséquent, les influences culturelles au marché Vietnamien devrait être revisité dans cette thèse. Alors, comment les consommateurs vietnamiens perçoivent les produits de soin de la peau de luxe et ceux de haut de gamme ? Pourquoi ils choisissent les produits de luxe et pour quoi ils choisissent les produits de haut de gamme ? Quelles sont les facteurs culturels qui influence leur choix ? Cette thèse est pour but de répondre à ces questions tout en générant des implications managériales et académiques importantes pour le marché vietnamien. Dans la partie théorique, cette thèse approche les trois axes théoriques comme les concepts de luxe et de haut-de-gamme, les consommateurs, et les influences culturelles avec des spécificités du marché vietnamien. La partie empirique de cette thèse contient 5 études qualitatives (les records audio spontanés, les discussions en groupe, l’enquête sur le prix de vente, la collection des photos et les entretiens individuels). Les résultats de la revue de littérature et des analyses des données confirment 7 propositions de recherche : [...] Cette thèse contribue à rafraîchir les connaissances sur une économie émergente et en transition tel est le Vietnam. Elle aide les managers à avoir une stratégie dynamique sur la segmentation des produits prémiums (luxe vis-à-vis haut-de-gamme) ainsi que de prendre conscience de la potentialité des consommateurs traditionnels non-ostentatoires Vietnamiens. Elle donne aussi une suggestion aux chercheurs d’étudier une nouvelle perception des marques de luxe et de haut de gamme dans les marchés émergents ; ainsi l’attention sur le pays d’origine devrait être donnée non seulement aux pays de l’Ouest (développés) mais aux aussi autres pays couronnés de succès actuellement comme la Corée du Sud dans les études du marché vietnamien. / Vietnam is a promising market for skincare brands. In premium segment, foreign imported products take the total share with an annual sales increase of 18 to 35 % during the last period 2010-2014 (Euromonitor 2015). Though vietnamese consumers have one common term for this segment as ‘mỹ phẩm cao cấp’ (premium cosmetics), it includes in fact luxury brands (eg : Clinique, Estee Lauder, Lancôme, Sisley, Shiseido, SKII, Menard, Ohui…) and non-luxury but high-end brands (eg: Vichy, Dr.Spiller, Swissline, Dermalogica, Tenamid…). Researchers so far have approached luxury segment but not yet adequately paid attention on the non-luxury but high-end segment in Vietnam. Besides, vietnamese people by culture appraised simplicity and modesty in actual life ; this is contrary to a phenomenon of conspicuous luxury consumption that has been heavily discussed by researchers in emerging economies so far. As such, existent and new cultural trends in Vietnam also is to be revisited in this thesis. So, how vietnamese consumers perceived luxury and high-end skincare brand products ? Why they choose luxury brands and why they choose high-end brand ? Which cultural factors influence their consumption choice ? This thesis is for an aim to find answers to these questions in enabling important managerial and academic implications for the vietnamese market.In theoretical part, this thesis approaches in three axes as luxury and high-end brand concepts, consumers, and cultural influences in stressing on the specificities of vietnamese market. The empirical part of this thesis contains 5 qualitative studies (random records, focus group discussion, market price survey, photo collection and in-depth interview). The results of theoretical review and data analysis confirmed 7 research propositions: 1/ During the economic transition period, vietnamese consumers are supposed not to have clear perception on luxury and high-end brand skincare products; 2/ Vietnamese traditional consumers was supposed not to be conspicuous but quality seeking in premium skincare consumption; 3/ By Korean cultural influence, there exists a behavioral preference of Korean high-end skincare products by vietnamese consumers; 4a/ Comparing to vietnamese young traditional consumers, elder consumers are less product-involved, less knowledgeable on brands, more advice-seeking and brand committed; 4b/ Comparing to elder traditional consumers, young consumers are more product-involved, more knowledgeable on brands, more self-information seeking and self-decisive and less brand committed; 5/ Vietnamese traditional consumers prefer luxury skincare products because of the quality assurance, of which elder consumers rely on price cue and young consumers rely on brand cue; 6/ Vietnamese traditional prefer high-end products because of price-quality, of which elder consumers rely on advice cue and young consumers rely on self-judgment.This thesis contributes to a refreshing knowledge on such emerging and transition markets as Vietnam. It helps managers to have dynamic strategy on premium product segmentation (luxury versus high-end products) as well as to acknowledge of the big potentiality of vietnamese traditional and non-conspicuous consumers. It also give a hint to academic researchers for studying a new perception of luxury and high-end brands in emerging markets as well as to pay attention on not only COO from Western/developed countries but also from such successful Asian country as Korea in study vietnamese market.