Le Vietnam est un marché très potentiel pour les marques de soin de la peau. Dans le prémium segment, les produits importés prennent la part totale du marché avec une croissance annuelle de 18 à 35 % dans ces dernières années 2010-2014 (Euromonitor 2015). Dans ce secteur, le seul terme commun utilise ‘mỹ phẩm cao cấp’ (prémium cosmétique) implique les marques de luxe (ex : Clinique, Estée Lauder, Lancôme, Sisley, Shiseido, SKII, Menard, Ohui…) et les marque non-luxe mais haut de gamme (ex : Vichy, Dr.Spiller, Swissline, Dermalogica, Tenamid…). Jusqu’à maintenant, le segment de luxe a bien été abordé, pourtant le segment de haut de gamme ne fait pas encore l’attention des chercheurs. A côté, les vietnamiens par tradition mènent une vie simple et modeste, ce qui est à l’encontre du phénomène de consommation ostentatoire des produits de luxe qui a été largement discuté dans les pays émergeants. Par conséquent, les influences culturelles au marché Vietnamien devrait être revisité dans cette thèse. Alors, comment les consommateurs vietnamiens perçoivent les produits de soin de la peau de luxe et ceux de haut de gamme ? Pourquoi ils choisissent les produits de luxe et pour quoi ils choisissent les produits de haut de gamme ? Quelles sont les facteurs culturels qui influence leur choix ? Cette thèse est pour but de répondre à ces questions tout en générant des implications managériales et académiques importantes pour le marché vietnamien. Dans la partie théorique, cette thèse approche les trois axes théoriques comme les concepts de luxe et de haut-de-gamme, les consommateurs, et les influences culturelles avec des spécificités du marché vietnamien. La partie empirique de cette thèse contient 5 études qualitatives (les records audio spontanés, les discussions en groupe, l’enquête sur le prix de vente, la collection des photos et les entretiens individuels). Les résultats de la revue de littérature et des analyses des données confirment 7 propositions de recherche : [...] Cette thèse contribue à rafraîchir les connaissances sur une économie émergente et en transition tel est le Vietnam. Elle aide les managers à avoir une stratégie dynamique sur la segmentation des produits prémiums (luxe vis-à-vis haut-de-gamme) ainsi que de prendre conscience de la potentialité des consommateurs traditionnels non-ostentatoires Vietnamiens. Elle donne aussi une suggestion aux chercheurs d’étudier une nouvelle perception des marques de luxe et de haut de gamme dans les marchés émergents ; ainsi l’attention sur le pays d’origine devrait être donnée non seulement aux pays de l’Ouest (développés) mais aux aussi autres pays couronnés de succès actuellement comme la Corée du Sud dans les études du marché vietnamien. / Vietnam is a promising market for skincare brands. In premium segment, foreign imported products take the total share with an annual sales increase of 18 to 35 % during the last period 2010-2014 (Euromonitor 2015). Though vietnamese consumers have one common term for this segment as ‘mỹ phẩm cao cấp’ (premium cosmetics), it includes in fact luxury brands (eg : Clinique, Estee Lauder, Lancôme, Sisley, Shiseido, SKII, Menard, Ohui…) and non-luxury but high-end brands (eg: Vichy, Dr.Spiller, Swissline, Dermalogica, Tenamid…). Researchers so far have approached luxury segment but not yet adequately paid attention on the non-luxury but high-end segment in Vietnam. Besides, vietnamese people by culture appraised simplicity and modesty in actual life ; this is contrary to a phenomenon of conspicuous luxury consumption that has been heavily discussed by researchers in emerging economies so far. As such, existent and new cultural trends in Vietnam also is to be revisited in this thesis. So, how vietnamese consumers perceived luxury and high-end skincare brand products ? Why they choose luxury brands and why they choose high-end brand ? Which cultural factors influence their consumption choice ? This thesis is for an aim to find answers to these questions in enabling important managerial and academic implications for the vietnamese market.In theoretical part, this thesis approaches in three axes as luxury and high-end brand concepts, consumers, and cultural influences in stressing on the specificities of vietnamese market. The empirical part of this thesis contains 5 qualitative studies (random records, focus group discussion, market price survey, photo collection and in-depth interview). The results of theoretical review and data analysis confirmed 7 research propositions: 1/ During the economic transition period, vietnamese consumers are supposed not to have clear perception on luxury and high-end brand skincare products; 2/ Vietnamese traditional consumers was supposed not to be conspicuous but quality seeking in premium skincare consumption; 3/ By Korean cultural influence, there exists a behavioral preference of Korean high-end skincare products by vietnamese consumers; 4a/ Comparing to vietnamese young traditional consumers, elder consumers are less product-involved, less knowledgeable on brands, more advice-seeking and brand committed; 4b/ Comparing to elder traditional consumers, young consumers are more product-involved, more knowledgeable on brands, more self-information seeking and self-decisive and less brand committed; 5/ Vietnamese traditional consumers prefer luxury skincare products because of the quality assurance, of which elder consumers rely on price cue and young consumers rely on brand cue; 6/ Vietnamese traditional prefer high-end products because of price-quality, of which elder consumers rely on advice cue and young consumers rely on self-judgment.This thesis contributes to a refreshing knowledge on such emerging and transition markets as Vietnam. It helps managers to have dynamic strategy on premium product segmentation (luxury versus high-end products) as well as to acknowledge of the big potentiality of vietnamese traditional and non-conspicuous consumers. It also give a hint to academic researchers for studying a new perception of luxury and high-end brands in emerging markets as well as to pay attention on not only COO from Western/developed countries but also from such successful Asian country as Korea in study vietnamese market.

This report explores the influence of influencer posts featuring paid collaborations for cosmetic surgeries on social media followers. Building upon the investigative SVT documentary "Priset vi betalar" by journalist Frida Söderlund, the documentary delves into the world of influencers and the dynamics behind their accounts. While the documentary primarily focuses on the influence of paid collaborations on the influencers themselves, this research shifts the focus towards the reception and impact of these messages and posts on the audience. The previously mentioned documentary predominantly examined sponsored posts for cosmetic surgeries from the perspective of influencers, neglecting a qualitative exploration of how individuals who view these posts perceive and are affected by them. The study aims to address this gap by investigating the experiences and responses of 18-25-year-old students at Linnaeus University in Kalmar, Sweden, who are exposed to influencer content featuring paid collaborations for cosmetic surgeries. Drawing from theories such as Giddens' theory of structuration, uses and gratifications, and parasocial relationships, the research aims to deepen our understanding of the perceived authority of influencers in relation to cosmetic surgeries and its impact on audience trust. A semi-structured interview methodology was employed, involving eight participants. The interviews were structured around three themes: media habits, the relationship with influencers, and perceptions of cosmetic surgeries. Through these interviews, the study explores how followers receive and interpret influencer messages related to paid collaborations for cosmetic surgeries. The findings indicate that followers are negatively affected by the presence of paid collaborations for cosmetic surgeries on social media, primarily in terms of their critical stance towards the marketing practices employed by clinics and influencers. However, the research also highlights a broader influence of cosmetic surgeries on the participants, beyond the context of paid collaborations. Participants expressed being influenced by influencers who showcase their own appearance on social media, suggesting that exposure to such content impacts individuals in various ways. This study contributes to the existing literature by examining the impact of paid collaborations for cosmetic surgeries from the perspective of social media followers. The findings provide insights into the reception of influencer content and its effects on audience attitudes and behaviors. The research underscores the need for critical evaluation of marketing practices surrounding cosmetic surgeries and emphasizes the role of influencers in shaping audience perceptions and trust.

This qualitative research maps the attitudes of the cosmetic surgery tourism stakeholders towards the phenomenon from their ethical, cultural and psychological aspects. Utilitarianism, media culture and mental health state that leads to the decision to experience cosmetic tourism, inform the investigation of the aforementioned aspects. There is a pronounced socio-cultural pressure affecting the motive to travel for cosmetic services, combined with the mental health issues ascending largely from culturally prescribed norms. The authors, by utilizing the constructivist genre of grounded theory, established conclusive evidence that a certain amount of emotional well-being does stem from cosmetic surgery, as long as the societal beauty standards are not solely what drove this decision, in the long run. Thus, the postoperative eudaimonia is temporary, and in order to gain physical and psychological benefits from this medical tourism experience in the long term, a positive aging shift in the perception and operations of cosmetic surgery tourism is deemed as necessary, as the findings of this research demonstrate. Finally, future research opportunities should be directed towards the implications of cosmetic surgery tourism on evolution and the establishment of biohacking as a large share of the offered cosmetic tourism services.

This study was carried out at the Department of Nanotechnology and Functional Materials,Uppsala University, one of several places where the interest of lignin in cosmetics is constantly growing. The functionalities of lignin have been studied to a great extent revealing its potential as a natural biopolymer to serve as a replacement for environmentally hazardous components in cosmetic formulations, namely UV-filters in sunscreens. Using ethnographic methods and qualitative interviews the lignin-cosmetic industry was observed and analyzed in order to discern how concerned the industry is with ecological andaesthetic value. Ecological value is a hallmark of the value proposition in the cosmetic industry, and leaders of the industry indeed share this view. The analysis further revealed that the actors of the lignin-cosmetic industry are at different stages of development and that as of this year we can expect the first product to be launched. Furthermore, the value chain of the lignin actors was identified and for the first time mapped out in detail from the qualitative analysis that was carried out targeting lignin actors within the lignin-cosmetic industry. Mapping the value chain revealed the actors included in the entire chain identified as biorefinery, manufacturer, modifier, formulator, distributor and retailer which together compose the lignin-cosmetic value chain. A qualitative, semi structured interview approach was used and adapted as we met with eleven actors interviewing them about ecological and aesthetic values in the lignin based product value proposition. The grounded theory was applied to analyze the data, generating eight categories representing the concepts comprising ecological and aesthetic values of the value proposition. The kernel category, Green Profile, explains the most important concepts valued by lignin actors in terms of what ecological and aesthetic value could be offered to be appealing to customers. The findings of this study reveals the current situation of lignin in the cosmetic market as of today, and discerns where the value of lignin lies. The understanding of lignin actors' values contributes to the current gray-area in biopolymer research, lacking information on the value chain of lignin in cosmetics. The findings therefore foster the advancement of sustainable innovative solutions for cosmetics and personal care.

Skönhetsideal och strävan efter dessa är inte ett nytt fenomen, utan har funnits i olika kulturer och samhällen genom tiderna. Däremot har vi idag nya metoder i form av skönhetsingrepp för att korrigera och uppnå det rådande idealet. Genom dagens sociala medier är det dessutom tillgängligare och lättare än någonsin att påverkas av både skönhetsideal och skönhetsingrepp. Syftet med denna studie var att undersöka unga kvinnors förhållningssätt till skönhetsideal och skönhetsingrepp, samt hur de upplevde att sociala medier påverkade dessa.  Detta gjordes genom åtta semistrukturerade intervjuer med kvinnor i åldrarna 18-29. Materialet analyserades genom en tematisk innehållsanalys som resulterade i temana (och kategorierna) Skönhetsideal (Naturlig skönhet, Idealkropp, Strävan, Skönhetsingrepp), Social påverkan (Trender och normer, Socialt sammanhang, Social feedback, Samhällets dubbelmoral) och Självbild (Införlivade ideal, Självkänsla, Medvetet undvikande). Resultatet visade att kvinnorna upplevde att deras syn på skönhetsideal och skönhetsingrepp utformas genom interaktion med individens sociala omgivning. Genom samhällets trender och normer, social kontext och social feedback uttrycktes, med olika grad av medvetenhet, internaliserade ideal som påverkade kvinnornas självbild och välmående. / Beauty ideals and the aspiration to adhere to them is not a new phenomenon, but one that has existed in different cultures and societies throughout time. However, today we have cosmetic procedures as an increasingly accessible method to achieve the prevailing ideal. In addition, today it is more available and easier than ever to be exposed to beauty ideals and cosmetic procedures through social media. The purpose of this study was to explore how young women view beauty ideals and cosmetic procedures, and how they experience that social media affects these. This was done through eight semi-structured interviews with women of the ages 23-29. The material was analysed through a thematic analysis, which resulted in the themes Beauty Ideals (Natural Beauty, Ideal Body, Striving, Cosmetic Procedures), Social Influence (Trends and Norms, Social Context, Social Feedback, Society’s Double Standard) and Self Image (Internalised Ideals, Self-worth, Conscious Avoidance). The result showed that they experience their beauty ideals and opinions on cosmetic procedures as being created through the interaction with the social context of the individual. With different levels of awareness the women expressed their ideals as being internalised through society’s trends and norms, the social context and social feedback. These ideals affected their self image and well-being.

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A rutina é empregada como antioxidante e na prevenção da fragilidade capilar. Pode ser veiculada em emulsões tópicas adequadas para atingir o local de ação. Estudos de penetração in vitro através da pele humana seria a situação ideal, entretanto, há dificuldades de sua obtenção e manutenção de sua viabilidade. Entre os demais modelos de membrana, a muda de pele de cobra apresenta-se como estrato córneo puro, fornecendo barreira similar ao humano e é obtida sem a morte do animal. Os objetivos desta pesquisa foram: (1) desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de emulsões cosméticas, contendo rutina e promotores de penetração cutânea, tais como, uréia (U), isopropanol (IP) e propilenoglicol (PG); (2) avaliar a liberação da referida substância ativa das emulsões e; (3) avaliar a penetração e a retenção cutânea in vitro da rutina da formulação de melhor desempenho. Emulsões foram desenvolvidas com rutina a 5,0% p/p e U, IP e PG, associados ou não e em proporções distintas, segundo planejamento fatorial com dois níveis com ponto central. Quantificou-se a rutina das emulsões por espectrofotometria a 361,0 nm, método previamente validado. A liberação da rutina nas formulações foi realizada em células de difusão vertical com membrana de acetato de celulose e água destilada e álcool etílico absoluto 99,5% (1:1), como fluido receptor. O experimento foi conduzido em um período de seis horas, a 37,0 ±. 0,5 °C e agitação constante de 300 rpm.>f. emulsão de melhor desempenho quanto à liberação foi estudada quanto à estabilidade (Testes de Estabilidade Acelerada). Para o estudo de penetração e retenção cutânea da rutina dessa formulação foi utilizada muda de pele de cobra de Crotalus durissus. Empregou-se o método espectrofotométrico validado a 410,0 nm para a quantificação da rutina após liberação, penetração e retenção cutânea. Todas as emulsões foram consideradas adequadas após desenvolvimento das formulações. A uréia (isolada e em associação com IP e PG) e o isopropanol (isolado e em associação com PG) influenciaram negativamente a liberação da rutina das emulsões em diversos parâmetros. A rutina liberada e acumulada da formulação contendo PG a 5,0% p/p possuiu valor de 648,80 ±. 53,01 &#181g/cm2. Fora do esperado, a preparação contendo o número maior de promotores (U 5,0% p/p, IP 5,0% p/p e PG 5,0% p/p) resultou em liberação de menor magnitude igual a 419,76 ±. 17,98 &#181g/cm2. A presença do PG apresentou-se mais eficiente na liberação da rutina, mas não na sua penetração através da muda de pele de C. durissus, retendo 0,931 ± 0,0391 µg de rutina/mg de muda de pele de cobra. Nas condições de armazenamento a 25,0 ±2,0 °C; 5,0 ±0,5 °C e 45,0 ±. 0,5 °C, a emulsão com PG e rutina apresentou-se quimicamente estável durante 30 dias. De acordo com os resultados, a emulsão contendo PG apresentou liberação mais expressiva da rutina, no entanto, não ocorreu a penetração cutânea, mas apenas sua retenção no estrato córneo de C. durissus. A preparação manteve-se estável em todas as condições de armazenamento. / Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, the shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifica. The objectives of this research were: (1) development and stability evaluation of cosmetic emulsions containing rutin and penetration enhancers, as urea (U), isopropanol (IP) and propylene glycol (PG); (2) release evaluation of the mentioned active substance from the emulsions and; (3) evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion of the best performance. Emulsions were developed with rutin 5.0% w/wand U, IP and PG, associated or not according to factorial design with two levels and central point. Active substance on the formulations was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin release from emulsions was performed in vertical diffusion cells with cellulose acetate membrane and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 °c with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Formulation with best profile of rutin release had its stability studied by the Accelerated Stability Assays. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention from the mentioned emulsion was performed with shed snake skin from Crotalus durissus. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after release and cutaneous penetration/retention. Ali emulsions were considered apparently stables after development. Urea (isolated and associated with IP and PG) and isopropanol (isolated and associated with PG) have influenced negatively the rutin release in several parameters. Emulsion with PG 5.0% w/w presented rutin released and accumulated equal to 648.80 ± 53.01 µg/cm2. Unexpectedly, the formulation containing all enhancers (U 5.0% w/w, IP 5.0% w/w and PG 5.0% w/w) has decreased the amount released of the active substance (419.76 ± 17.98 µg/cm2). Emulsion with PG presented more adequate for rutin release, but PG did not provide rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 &$181;g rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after they have been stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 °c, 5.0 ± 0.5 °c and 45.0 ± 0.5 °C. In conclusion, emulsion with PG provided rutin release more expressively, although, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum. Formulation was stable in all storage conditions.

Hidrolipodistrofia ginóide (H.L.D.G.), a celulite, é comumente tratada com cosméticos contendo extratos vegetais. O estudo realizado foi: ultra-sonografia na avaliação da espessura da hipoderme e a microcirculação cutânea; uso de termômetro infravermelho na medida da temperatura e análise das medidas antropométricas da uma formulação cosmética anticelulítica contendo extrato hidroglicólico de Trichilia catigua e Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham (catuaba e marapuama). Foram realizadas medidas iniciais e após aplicação da formulação. Os resultados apresentaram alterações estatisticamente significativas para a temperatura cutânea e medidas antropométricas. Não houve diferenças estatisticamente significativas nas medidas da hipoderme e microcirculação. Considerando os resultados, a formulação avaliada possui potencial ação coadjuvante na redução da hidrolipodistrofia ginóide. As técnicas podem ser associadas em conjunto com a avaliação sensorial e apreciabilidade cosmética. Os requisitos chaves para a reprodutibilidade das técnicas incluem ambiente controlado, monitoramento e climatização dos voluntários, procedimentos de medidas padronizados, protocolos de aplicação realístico e operadores qualificados. / Gynoid lipodystrophy (H.L.D.G.), the cellulite, is usually treated by cosmetics containing vegetal extracts ingredients. The study related to: ultrasonography evaluating the hypodermis thickness and skin blood microcirculation; the usage of the infra-red thermometer in the measurement of skin temperature and the assessment of anthropometrics measurements of a coadjuvant cosmetic formula based on hydroglycolic extract of Trichilia catigua and Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham (catuaba and marapuama). Measurements were taken at first and again after the use of the formulation. The results indicate that there were statistically significant changes for skin temperature and also anthropometrics measurements. There were no statistically significant differences neither in hypodermis nor in blood microcirculation. Considering the final results, the formulation studied had a potential coadjuvant role by decreasing gynoid lipodystrophy. These techniques can be associated together with sensory evaluation and cosmetic appreciability. The key requirements for the reproducibility of the technique include: controlled environments, volunteers acclimatization and monitoring, standardized measurements procedures, realistic application protocols and qualified operators.

A hidrolipodistrofia ginóide, popularmente denominada de celulite, é caracterizada como um processo distrófico que produz alterações estruturais dos elementos presentes na pele, como: modificações no tecido conjuntivo, comprometimento da microcirculação periférica cutânea, hipertrofia e hiperplasia dos adipócitos e edema. Os flavonóides são utilizados como substâncias ativas em preparações anticelulíticas por reduzirem a permeabilidade capilar. Os objetivos estabelecidos para esta pesquisa foram: (1) desenvolver emulsões cosméticas com finalidades anticelulíticas; (2) validar metodologia analítica para o doseamento de flavonóides totais, equivalentes em rutina, por espectrofotometria na região do ultravioleta; (3) avaliar a estabilidade física, físico-química e química das formulações. Formulações cosméticas anticelulíticas foram desenvolvidas contendo o extrato vegetal comercial de Trichilia catiguá Adr. Juss (e) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham (Slimbuster® H1), padronizado em flavonóides totais, equivalentes em rutina, e avaliadas quanto à estabilidade física, físico-química e química. Para sua quantificação, o método espectrofotométrico na região do ultravioleta a 361,0 nm foi empregado, comparando-se com rutina padrão secundário de referência (T = 96,1%). A avaliação da estabilidade envolveu três condições distintas de temperatura (5,0 + 0,5; 24 + 2 e 40,0 + 0,5 °C), pelo período de três meses, e as variáveis analisadas foram as características organolépticas, valor de pH, viscosidade aparente e teor de flavonóides totais. A metodologia foi validada quanto à linearidade, limites de detecção e quantificação, especificidade e pesquisa de interferentes, recuperação do padrão, precisão e exatidão intra e inter-dias. Os resultados da estabilidade indicaram que o teor de flavonóides totais, equivalentes em rutina, sofreu decaimento inferior a 10% nas condições de exposição à luz solar direta e/ou indireta, à temperatura ambiente (24 + 2 °C) e de refrigerador (5,0 + 0,5 °C), sendo que a 40,0 + 0,5 °C, condição de estufa, ocorreu redução de, aproximadamente, 35%. / Gynoid hydrolipodystrophy, popularly known as cellulite, is characterized as a dystrophic process that generates structural alterations of skin elements, as: connective tissue modifications, cutaneous microcirculation abnormalities, hypertrophy and hyperplasia of adipocytes and edema. Flavonoids are employed as raw materials in anticellulitic products by their capability to reduce capillary permeability. The objectives established for this research were: (1) development of anticellulitic cosmetic emulsions; (2) analytical method validation for total flavonoids, expressed in rutin, by ultraviolet spectrophotometry; (3) physical, physicochemical and chemical stability assay for the preparations. Anticellulitic cosmetic formulations containing the Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham commercial extract (Slimbuster® H1), standardized in total flavonoids, expressed in rutin, were developed and their physical, physicochemical and chemical stability was assessed. Flavonoids were quantified within the ultraviolet spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm as rutin equivalents by comparison with secondary standard rutin (T = 96.1%). Stability assay was conducted in three temperature conditions (5.0 + 0.5; 24 + 2 e 40.0 + 0.5 °C) and the following parameters were analyzed: aspect, color and odor, pH and apparent viscosity values and flavonoid content. Analytical methodology was validated determining linearity, limits of detection and quantification, specificity and interferent assay, recovery and intra and inter-run precision and accuracy. Results from stability evaluation have indicated decrease of flavonoid content inferior than 10% at sunlight exposure (room temperature, 24 + 2 °C) and at 5.0 + 0.5 °C; high temperature (40.0 + 0.5 °C) has reduced the flavonoid content at, approximately, 35%.