The main purpose of the project was to investigate existing markets within the food- and cosmetic industry in order to determine a strategy for market entrance with the bonus product of Fresenius Kabi. The original bonus product, P080, is a rest product from the process where phospholipids are extracted from egg yolk powder. P80 is a refine version of the P080 where egg yolk oil has been extracted, hence the protein content in P80 is higher. The extracted egg yolk oil is the final portion of the bonus product. Thereby, the original bonus product can be divided into two refined fractions. This project investigates the potential for each of these three substances to be a part of a fictive product.  By scanning the global protein market as well as the egg yolk protein and egg oil market, seven potential product segments were discovered. These segments were further evaluated in order to bring out specific products that were potential candidates as products based on the bonus product.  The analysis resulted in two fictive products based on P080; high value nutrition bars and snacks for seniors, one based on P80; protein powder, and one based on egg yolk oil; dietary supplement. All presented in three business cases.

Le chauffage des matériaux cosmétiques peut provoquer une exsudation de surface sous la forme de petites gouttes puis un retrait des gouttes associé à un processus de recristallisation. Des méthodes rhéologiques et de diffusion multiple de la lumière ont permis une étude des effets d’exsudation et de recristallisation en fonction de la température de chauffage, du vieillissement et de la plasticité du matériau. Des simulations numériques et un modèle phénoménologique basés sur la prolifération de fissures métastables et la croissance hors équilibre d’amas de défauts liquides susceptibles de crever la surface permettent de rendre compte des effets d’exsudation et de recristallisation variables selon la plasticité de la matrice semi-cristalline et la teneur en huile dans le matériau soumis à une perturbation thermique. / The heating of cosmetic materials can generate an external sweating phenomenon shown by the formation of droplets, followed by a withdrawal of the droplets due to the recrystallization process. Rheological methods and light scattering allowed to study the effects of sweating and re-crystallization in term of heating temperature, aging, and material’s elasticity. Numerical simulations and a phenomenological model based on the multiplication of metastable cracks and the growth outside of equilibrium state of liquid default pits able to burst the surface proves the sweating effects and the re-crystallization variable depending on the semi-crystalline matrix and the percentile of oil in the material under thermal fluctuation.

A indústria cosmética tem investido em tecnologias inovadoras na busca de maior eficácia de seus produtos. A Nanotecnologia tem sido utilizada com o propósito de desenvolver formulações de menor risco de irritação cutânea e que promovam a liberação modificada do componente ativo. Este trabalho teve como objetivo geral desenvolvimento, caracterização e avaliação de nanopartículas de ácido ursólico incorporadas em formulação cosmética. Nesta pesquisa, para determinar a eficiência de encapsulação do AU (ácido ursólico) livre e nas nanopartículas poliméricas, foi validada uma metodologia que empregou a CLAE (Cromatografia em fase Líquida de Alta Eficiência) e os resultados obtidos indicaram boa reprodutibilidade do método e concordância entre os resultados obtidos, sendo a metodologia empregada na avaliação do AU livre e nanoparticulado. As nanopartículas contendo AU apresentaram características de potencial estabilidade química, obtendo eficiência de encapsulação de 80% de AU para as nanopartículas poliméricas e 100% para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados. A caracterização físico-química das nanopartículas poliméricas contendo AU foi realizada determinando-se diâmetro da partícula (353,4 ± 1,4 nm), índice de polidispersividade (0,106 ± 0,008) e potencial zeta (-35,6 ± 1,2 mV). Os resultados obtidos para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados contendo AU nas formulações foram: tamanho de partícula entre 125,3±40,4 e 237,4±62,7 nm, índice de polidispersividade entre 0,01 e 0,38 e potencial zeta entre -20,5±9,2 e -50,7±9,5 mV. Os resultados obtidos indicaram estabilidade das nanopartículas desenvolvidas. O resultado relativo ao planejamento fatorial para otimização dos agentes tensoativos revelou modelo matemático de segunda ordem para a previsão de valores de potencial zeta em função das concentrações de SDS. Dessa forma, foi possível a preparação de carreador lipídico nanoestruturado contendo reduzida concentração de SDS e valor de potencial zeta menor que -40 mV. Por meio das técnicas de TG/DTG e DSC, observou-se que o AU se manteve estável nas diversas formas de apresentação. Formulações cosméticas contendo ácido ursólico livre (AUL), e incorporados a nanopartículas polméricas (AUE) e carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados (AUC) foram submetidas a Avaliação Preliminar da Estabilidade e ao Teste Estabilidade Normal. Observou-se que o AUC obteve melhor estabilidade físico-química em comparação ao AUL tanto na variação de viscosidade como na variação do pH, além de ter obtido melhor estabilidade em relação a AUE na variação de pH x tempo. A partir dos resultados obtidos, a Formulação 2 foi selecionada para o teste de penetração cutânea. A avaliação da penetração cutânea in vitro do AU não apresentou tendência para favorecer o transporte da substância ativa para a fase receptora. A maior concentração de AU na pele foi obtida das amostras de AU livre + emulsão (65%) seguidas das amostras de CLN + emulsão (33%) e das NP + emulsão (20%). A penetração cutânea obteve resultado ideal, pois, por se tratar de nanopartículas contendo um componente ativo antioxidante na superfície da pele, se associado a um filtro solar, atuaria contra os radicais livres resultando na maior proteção contra a radiação ultravioleta. / The cosmetic industry has invested in innovative technologies in search of greater effectiveness of their products. Nanotechnology has been used with this propose to reduce the risk of skin irritation by promoting the modified release of the active component. This study had as main objective development, characterization and evaluation of ursolic acid nanoparticles incorporated in cosmetic formulation. In this research, to determine the entrapment efficiency of UA (ursolic acid) free and in polymeric nanoparticles, a methodology was validated using HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography) and the results indicated good reproducibility of the method and agreement between the results, the methodology employed could be assessed in the evaluation of free and UA nanoparticles. Nanoparticles containing UA showed characteristics of potential chemical stability obtaining entrapment efficiency of 80% for UA polymer nanoparticles and 100% for the nanostructured lipid carriers. The physicochemical characterization of polymeric nanoparticles containing UA was accomplished by determining the particle diameter (353.4 ± 1.4 nm), polydispersity index (0.106 ± 0.008) and zeta potential (-35.6 ± 1.2mV). The results obtained for the nanostructured lipid carriers containing UA formulations were: particle size between 125.3±40.4 and 237.4±62.7 nm, polydispersity index between 0.01 and 0.38, and zeta potential between -20.5±9.2 and -50.7±9.5 mV. The results indicated stability of the developed nanoparticles. The result for the factorial design for optimization of surfactant revealed a quadratic effect of the independent variable sodium dodecyl sulfate in zeta potential. Thus, it was possible to prepare nanostructured lipid carrier containing reduced concentrations of SDS and zeta potential value of less than -40 mV. By means of the techniques of TG/DTG and DSC, was observed that the UA remained stable. Cosmetic formulations containing free ursolic acid (AUL) and incorporated in polymeric nanoparticles (AUE) and nanostructured lipid carriers (AUC) were submitted to Preliminary Assessment Stability and Normal Stability Test. It was observed that the AUC obtained better physical and chemical stability compared to AUL on the variation of viscosity as on the pH variation, besides having obtained a higher stability compared to the AUE in the pH variation versus time. From the results obtained Formulation 2 was selected for the realization of the skin penetration test. The evaluation of the in vitro penetration of UA showed that ursolic acid remained on the skin surface. The dermal penetration showed no tendency to favor the transport of active substance to the receptor phase. The highest concentration of UA in the skin samples was obtained UA + free emulsion (65%) followed samples NLC + emulsion (33%) and PN + emulsion (20%). The skin penetration achieved optimal outcome because, as it is nanoparticles containing antioxidant active compound on the skin surface, if associated with a solar filter would act against free radicals resulting in greater protection against ultraviolet radiation.

O ascorbato de monometilsilanotriol (AMS) apresenta as propriedades cosméticas do ácido ascórbico. Além de ser um antioxidante e despigmentante, o AMS apresenta silício em sua estrutura, assim sua presença em formulações tópicas tem como objetivo repor o silício endógeno, proporcionando a regeneração do tecido. O presente trabalho tem por objetivo, caracterizar e analisar o AMS formulações cosméticas. Para caracterização do princípio ativo, foram empregadas as seguintes técnicas: espectrofotometria no ultravioleta, espectrofotometria na região do infravermelho com transformada de Fourier (FTIR), cromatografia em camada delgada, perda por dessecação, calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC), termogravimetria (TG), termogravimetria derivada (DTG) e análise do tamanho de partícula. Avaliou-se o potencial antioxidante in vitro do AMS pelos métodos de DPPH (2,2´-difenil-1- picrilhidrazil) e ORAC(Oxigen Radical Absorbance Capacity Assay) . Para avaliar o comportamento do princípio ativo em formulações cosméticas foi realizado um estudo de estabilidade acelerada, no qual as mesmas foram armazenadas nas seguintes condições: 40º C ± 2, câmera de fotoestabilidade 25º C, armário fechado à temperatura de 25º C± 2 e geladeira a 5º C ± 2. Foram avaliados os caracteres organolépticos, o pH e viscosidade aparente, também foram efetuadas análises por DSC, tamanho de partícula e microscopia de luz polarizada. Para determinação do AMS foi desenvolvido e validado um método por cromatografia líquida da alta eficiência (CLAE) em fase reversa por pareamento iônico. De acordo com os resultados obtidos por TG/DTG/DSC pode-se associar o comportamento térmico do ativo isolado com aquele da espécie incorporada em formulações. Segundo o método de tamanho de partícula, pode-se avaliar que o AMS, apresentou tamanho de aproximadamente 1 µm (919 nm) e índice de polidispersidade de 0,111. Durante os experimentos para determinação da atividade antioxidante por DPPH, o AMS demonstrou ter propriedade antioxidante tão efetiva quanto o ácido ascórbico. O valor de ORAC obtido para o AMS (0,74) é próximo ao valor de ORAC para o ácido ascórbico (0,95). As formulações estudadas mantiveram suas características organolépticas, estabilidade física e viscosidade aparente, assim como, não sofreram alterações relevantes em termos de pH durante o período de 90 dias. A metodologia desenvolvida para determinação do AMS apresentou boa linearidade, precisão, limites de detecção e quantificação, podendo ser usada na análise de formulações cosméticas. Esse princípio ativo, mostrou ser uma excelente alternativa, como derivado do ácido ascórbico, por apresentar atividade antioxidante in vitro tão eficiente quanto à desse, assim como, uma estabilidade superior em formulações cosméticas. / The monomethylsilanetriol ascorbate( MSA) presents the same functional properties of vitamin C. Besides presents antioxidant and depigmentant activity, the monomethylsilanetriol ascorbate presents silanol in it chemical structure. The silanol is a privileged active ingredient for cosmetics because it essential for growth, development and regeneration of cutaneous connective tissue. The aim of this work was characterize and analyze the MSA in cosmetic formulations. To characterize and identified MSA was employed: ultraviolet/visible (UV/VIS) spectrophotometry, fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry (FTIR), thin layer chromatography (TLC), thermogravimetry/derivative thermogravimetry (TG/DTG), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and particle size determination. For MSA in vitro antioxidant activity evaluation the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ORAC (Oxigen Radical Absorbance Capacity Assay) method were used. To evaluate the behavior of MSA in cosmetic formulations the samples of emulsions were submitted to the accelerated stability study, for 90 days, were stored at 40 ± 2oC and light 25 ± 2oC. All samples were also stored at room temperature protected from light. Appearance, pH and apparent viscosity were evaluated. The DSC, particle size analyze and microscopy also were employed for analyze the cosmetic formulations. To determine MSA in formulations it was employed and validated a reversed phase HPLC method with ion pairing. According to the results obtained by TG/DTG/DSC the thermal behavior of isolated MSA can be associated with thermal behavior of MSA in formulations. Particle size distributions results showed that the average size was approximately 1 µm for MSA (919 nm) and polydispersity index of 0,111. During DPPH experiments, MSA presented antioxidant properties as good as vitamin C. The value of ORAC obtained for MSA was (0,74). The value of ORAC for ascorbic acid is 0,95. All samples remained stable throughout stability studies period. The developed methodology for determination of MSA presented good linearity, precision, limit of quantification and limit of detection and can be employed for analyze cosmetic formulations containing MSA. In conclusion, MSA might have interesting applications in cosmetic products and can be a good alternative for ascorbic acid derivative because it for demonstrated strong in vitro antioxidant properties as efficient as and more stable than vitamin C.

A indústria cosmética tem investido em tecnologias inovadoras na busca de maior eficácia de seus produtos. A Nanotecnologia tem sido utilizada com o propósito de desenvolver formulações de menor risco de irritação cutânea e que promovam a liberação modificada do componente ativo. Este trabalho teve como objetivo geral desenvolvimento, caracterização e avaliação de nanopartículas de ácido ursólico incorporadas em formulação cosmética. Nesta pesquisa, para determinar a eficiência de encapsulação do AU (ácido ursólico) livre e nas nanopartículas poliméricas, foi validada uma metodologia que empregou a CLAE (Cromatografia em fase Líquida de Alta Eficiência) e os resultados obtidos indicaram boa reprodutibilidade do método e concordância entre os resultados obtidos, sendo a metodologia empregada na avaliação do AU livre e nanoparticulado. As nanopartículas contendo AU apresentaram características de potencial estabilidade química, obtendo eficiência de encapsulação de 80% de AU para as nanopartículas poliméricas e 100% para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados. A caracterização físico-química das nanopartículas poliméricas contendo AU foi realizada determinando-se diâmetro da partícula (353,4 ± 1,4 nm), índice de polidispersividade (0,106 ± 0,008) e potencial zeta (-35,6 ± 1,2 mV). Os resultados obtidos para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados contendo AU nas formulações foram: tamanho de partícula entre 125,3±40,4 e 237,4±62,7 nm, índice de polidispersividade entre 0,01 e 0,38 e potencial zeta entre -20,5±9,2 e -50,7±9,5 mV. Os resultados obtidos indicaram estabilidade das nanopartículas desenvolvidas. O resultado relativo ao planejamento fatorial para otimização dos agentes tensoativos revelou modelo matemático de segunda ordem para a previsão de valores de potencial zeta em função das concentrações de SDS. Dessa forma, foi possível a preparação de carreador lipídico nanoestruturado contendo reduzida concentração de SDS e valor de potencial zeta menor que -40 mV. Por meio das técnicas de TG/DTG e DSC, observou-se que o AU se manteve estável nas diversas formas de apresentação. Formulações cosméticas contendo ácido ursólico livre (AUL), e incorporados a nanopartículas polméricas (AUE) e carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados (AUC) foram submetidas a Avaliação Preliminar da Estabilidade e ao Teste Estabilidade Normal. Observou-se que o AUC obteve melhor estabilidade físico-química em comparação ao AUL tanto na variação de viscosidade como na variação do pH, além de ter obtido melhor estabilidade em relação a AUE na variação de pH x tempo. A partir dos resultados obtidos, a Formulação 2 foi selecionada para o teste de penetração cutânea. A avaliação da penetração cutânea in vitro do AU não apresentou tendência para favorecer o transporte da substância ativa para a fase receptora. A maior concentração de AU na pele foi obtida das amostras de AU livre + emulsão (65%) seguidas das amostras de CLN + emulsão (33%) e das NP + emulsão (20%). A penetração cutânea obteve resultado ideal, pois, por se tratar de nanopartículas contendo um componente ativo antioxidante na superfície da pele, se associado a um filtro solar, atuaria contra os radicais livres resultando na maior proteção contra a radiação ultravioleta. / The cosmetic industry has invested in innovative technologies in search of greater effectiveness of their products. Nanotechnology has been used with this propose to reduce the risk of skin irritation by promoting the modified release of the active component. This study had as main objective development, characterization and evaluation of ursolic acid nanoparticles incorporated in cosmetic formulation. In this research, to determine the entrapment efficiency of UA (ursolic acid) free and in polymeric nanoparticles, a methodology was validated using HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography) and the results indicated good reproducibility of the method and agreement between the results, the methodology employed could be assessed in the evaluation of free and UA nanoparticles. Nanoparticles containing UA showed characteristics of potential chemical stability obtaining entrapment efficiency of 80% for UA polymer nanoparticles and 100% for the nanostructured lipid carriers. The physicochemical characterization of polymeric nanoparticles containing UA was accomplished by determining the particle diameter (353.4 ± 1.4 nm), polydispersity index (0.106 ± 0.008) and zeta potential (-35.6 ± 1.2mV). The results obtained for the nanostructured lipid carriers containing UA formulations were: particle size between 125.3±40.4 and 237.4±62.7 nm, polydispersity index between 0.01 and 0.38, and zeta potential between -20.5±9.2 and -50.7±9.5 mV. The results indicated stability of the developed nanoparticles. The result for the factorial design for optimization of surfactant revealed a quadratic effect of the independent variable sodium dodecyl sulfate in zeta potential. Thus, it was possible to prepare nanostructured lipid carrier containing reduced concentrations of SDS and zeta potential value of less than -40 mV. By means of the techniques of TG/DTG and DSC, was observed that the UA remained stable. Cosmetic formulations containing free ursolic acid (AUL) and incorporated in polymeric nanoparticles (AUE) and nanostructured lipid carriers (AUC) were submitted to Preliminary Assessment Stability and Normal Stability Test. It was observed that the AUC obtained better physical and chemical stability compared to AUL on the variation of viscosity as on the pH variation, besides having obtained a higher stability compared to the AUE in the pH variation versus time. From the results obtained Formulation 2 was selected for the realization of the skin penetration test. The evaluation of the in vitro penetration of UA showed that ursolic acid remained on the skin surface. The dermal penetration showed no tendency to favor the transport of active substance to the receptor phase. The highest concentration of UA in the skin samples was obtained UA + free emulsion (65%) followed samples NLC + emulsion (33%) and PN + emulsion (20%). The skin penetration achieved optimal outcome because, as it is nanoparticles containing antioxidant active compound on the skin surface, if associated with a solar filter would act against free radicals resulting in greater protection against ultraviolet radiation.

Extratos vegetais glicólicos são amplamente utilizados em formulações cosméticas devido às várias atividades clínicas atribuídas aos mesmos. O presente trabalho teve por objetivo selecionar os seis extratos comerciais glicólicos não padronizados com maiores teores de polifenóis e flavonoides totais e com maior atividade antioxidante dentre doze extratos [açaí (Euterpe oleracea), acerola (Malpighia glabra L.), castanha da Índia (Aesculus hippocastanum L.), chá verde (Camellia sinensis), erva-mate (Ilex paraguariensis A. St. Hil), framboesa (Rubus idaeus L.), ginco (Ginkgo biloba L.), menta (Mentha piperita L.), morango (Fragaria vesca L.), própolis, romã (Punica granatum L.) e uva (Vitis vinifera L.)] para realização de Estudo da Estabilidade e avaliação in vitro da eficácia fotoprotetora dos mesmos. A dissertação foi dividida em três capítulos. No primeiro capítulo, os doze extratos glicólicos foram avaliados quanto à presença e teor de flavonoides e polifenóis totais, bem como, quanto à atividade antioxidante determinada por DPPH e ORAC. Os extratos de romã, erva-mate, menta, própolis, ginco e chá verde apresentaram os maiores teores de polifenóis e flavonoides totais. Assim, os mesmos foram selecionados para as etapas seguintes do estudo. O capítulo 2 apresentou o estudo da estabilidade, ao longo de 90 dias, dos seis extratos selecionados. Avaliaram-se as características organolépticas, o valor do pH, da viscosidade dinâmica e da densidade absoluta, o teor de polifenóis e flavonoides totais e a atividade antioxidante nas condições geladeira, estufa e temperatura ambiente com proteção da incidência de luz solar e exposta à luz solar indireta. Variações superiores ao intervalo de ± 10,0 % foram observadas em todos os extratos, em pelo menos um parâmetro estudado. O extrato de chá verde apresentou variações no valor de pH, no teor de polifenóis e flavonoides totais e na atividade antioxidante. O extrato de ginco apresentou variações nos mesmos parâmetros que o extrato de chá verde, exceto no valor de pH. Teor de polifenóis totais e atividade antioxidante foram os parâmetros alterados no extrato de menta. Esses três extratos devem ser armazenados em geladeira (5 °C), ao abrigo da luz solar. Teor de flavonoides totais e valor da atividade antioxidante foram os parâmetros alterados no extrato de erva-mate. O extrato de própolis apresentou variações no teor de polifenóis e flavonoides totais. Observou-se que esses dois extratos podem ser armazenados à temperatura ambiente ou em geladeira. O extrato de romã demonstrou alterações no valor da atividade antioxidante e sua estabilidade não foi afetada em temperatura elevada (45 °C). No capítulo 3, avaliou-se a eficácia fotoprotetora in vitro (FPS estimado), por espectrofotometria de reflectância difusa e análise espectrofotométrica de soluções diluídas (método de Mansur), desses seis extratos, incorporados em formulações contendo ou não o filtro solar químico de amplo espectro bisetilexiloxifenol metoxifenil triazina (Escalol® S). Observou-se que o valor de FPS foi proporcional à quantidade de filtro utilizado nos resultados do método de Mansur. Formulações com ou sem adição dos extratos glicólicos e com 2,5% p/p do filtro solar apresentaram FPS variando no intervalo de 3,57 a 4,07; enquanto que, aquelas que continham 5,0% p/p do filtro aditivadas ou não de extrato glicólico apresentaram valores de FPS variando na faixa de 6,13 a 7,57. Os resultados gerados pelo espectrofotômetro de reflectância difusa indicaram FPS variando no intervalo de 6,0 a 7,0 para as formulações com 5,0% p/p de filtro aditivadas ou não de extrato glicólico e 3,0 a 4,5 para aquelas que continham 2,5% p/p do filtro solar com ou sem adição dos extratos. As duas metodologias empregadas revelaram ausência de sinergismo entre os extratos glicólicos e o filtro solar nas proporções utilizadas. / Glycolic botanical extracts have been widely used in cosmetic formulas due to their clinical activities. The objective of this study was to select six glycolic commercial extracts with higher polyphenol and flavonoid content and antioxidant activity in a group with twelve extracts [açaí (Euterpe oleracea), acerola (Malpighia glabra L.), horse chesnut (Aesculus hippocastanum L.), green tea (Camellia sinensis), mate tea (Ilex paraguariensis A. St. Hil), raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba L.), mint (Mentha piperita L.), strawberry (Fragaria vesca L.), propolis, pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) and grape (Vitis vinifera L.)] to do their stability study and their in vitro evaluation of photoprotection efficacy. The dissertation was divided in three chapters. In the first chapter, it was developed the polyphenolic and flavonoid content assays and the DPPH and ORAC antioxidant activity assays involving all the twelve extracts. The higher values of polyphenolic and flavonoid content were obtained in the extracts of pomegranate, mate tea, mint, propolis, ginkgo and green tea. Thus, they were selected to undergo the other studies. In chapter 2, it was presented the stability study of this six extracts during 90 days. Organoleptic characteristics, pH value, dynamic viscosity and absolute density values, polyphenolic and flavonoid content and the antioxidant activity in the conditions refrigerator, stove and room temperature with and without sun light exposition were evaluated. Variations higher than a range of 10,0 % were observed in all extracts in at least one studied parameter. The green tea extract presented significant variations in the pH value, polyphenolic and flavonoid content and in the antioxidant activity. The ginkgo extract presented variations in the same parameters, except for the pH value. Polyphenolic content and antioxidant activity were altered parameters in the mint extract. The extracts of ginkgo, green tea and mint must be stored in refrigerator (5 °C), protected from the sun light. The flavonoid content and antioxidant activity values were altered parameters in the mate tea extract. The propolis extract presented variations in the polyphenolic and flavonoids content. It was observed that this two extracts can be stored at room temperature or in the refrigerator. The pomegranate extract demonstrated alteration in the antioxidant activity, however the high temperature (45 °C) did not affect its stability. In chapter 3, it was evaluated the in vitro photoprotection efficacy (SPF estimated), by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry and spectrophotometric analyses of diluted solutions (Mansur methods), of these six extracts, incorporated in formulas containing or not the broad spectrum filter bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Escalol® S). It was observed that the SPF value was proportional to the amount of filter used in the Mansur method. Formulas with and without the glycolic extracts and with 2,5% w/w of the sun filter presented SPF ranging from 3,57 to 4,07; the formulas with 5,0% w/w of sun filter containing or not extracts presented SPF values in the interval between 6,13 and 7,57. The results of diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry indicated SPF values in the interval of 6,0 to 7,0 for formulas with 5,0% w/w of sun filter with or without extracts and values in the interval of 3,0 to 4,5 for formulas with 2,5 w/w of sun filter containing or not extracts. Both methodologies used indicated lack of synergism between the glycolic extracts and sun filter in the proportions used.

No description available.

En s’emparant de la question ornementale, le cinéma s’inscrit dans une réflexion reliant les territoires balkaniques de l’art, au-delà de l’opposition entre les beaux-arts, les arts décoratifs et le design. La pensée de l’ornement au cinéma ne relève pas de l’évidence, tant il est vrai que l’histoire de la notion est marquée par sa relégation au seuil de la création artistique. Pourtant, il semble bien que l’ornement soit présent partout où il faut combler du vide, décorer un objet, embellir le corps. À quoi tient l’attrait de l’ornement au cinéma ? Quelles sont les relations qu’entretient le cinéma avec la pensée ornementale des images ? Contre le préjugé qui frappe l’ornement d’insignifiance, il semble nécessaire d’éclairer ses implications morales, sociales et politiques. À travers un corpus circonstancié qui se déploie à l’entour du cinéma, de l’histoire de l’art et de la culture visuelle, ce travail de recherche entend cartographier les enjeux critiques, formels et perceptifs du régime visuel de l’ornement. Penser l’ornement aujourd’hui, c’est opérer un basculement dans l’ordre des valeurs dont il se fait l’héritier. Il s’agit non seulement de faire retour sur son histoire et son élaboration conceptuelle, mais également d’emmener l’ornement vers un au-delà du discours de la subsidiarité pour établir une pensée dynamique de l’ornemental au cinéma. À travers différentes propositions théoriques, se formulent autant de constellations articulant les enjeux esthétiques, historiques et politiques de l’ornement : le régime de la dépense et le corps féminin en exercice, le processus de réification de « l’ornement de la masse » dans la modernité, le discours sur la couleur ornementale et la hantise cosmétique, les formes naturelles et abstraites, le paradigme du tapis et la texture des images, les états altérés de la perception. Les questions ornementales adressées au cinéma s’intègrent dans une pensée rénovée du style – point vif de la tension qui anime l’art et la vie – en tant que procédure de qualification des formes. / As it seized the ornamental issue, cinema has become part of a reflection process relating the scattered territories of arts, beyond the opposition between fine arts, decorative arts and design. Thinking the ornament in cinema is far from obvious, since this notion, throughout its evolution, has always been marginalized at the threshold of artistic creation. Yet, it does seem that the ornament is present wherever a void needs to be filled, an object to be adorned or a body to be embellished. What makes the ornament appealing in cinema? What relationships does the cinema hold with the ornamental visual thinking? To counter prejudices confining the ornament within insignificance, it appears necessary to clarify its moral, social and political implications. Through a detailed corpus spreading around cinema, history of art and visual culture, this research paper aims at mapping the critical, formal and perceptual issues of the visual regime of the ornament. Thinking the ornament today means swaying the order of the values it has inherited. It is not only about looking back on its history and its conceptual elaboration, but also about bringing the ornament beyond the subsidiary speech to establish a dynamic thinking of the ornamental in cinema. By way of different theoretical suggestions, many constellations are being elaborated. They connect the aesthetic, historical and political stakes of the ornament: the regime of consumption and the gestures of the feminine body, the process of reifying the “mass ornament” into modernity, the speech on decorative colour and the cosmetic obsessive fear, the natural and abstract forms, the carpet paradigm and the texture of images, the altered states of the perception of ornaments. The ornamental issues, which are addressed to the cinema, blend into a renovated thinking on style – central in the tension that stirs arts and life – as a process of qualifying forms.

根據經濟部統計，在全球經濟不景氣的情況下，彩妝業在2009與2008年同期相比，仍成長了2.72%，以金額來說，台灣彩妝一年有新台幣720多億元市場，而保養品的市場量則一直維持在美妝品市場40%以上比例，兩者合計之金額足見美妝市場之大。因此對於行銷人員來說，瞭解現代女性選擇美妝產品的方式成為一個重要的課題。 本研究認為，若能瞭解網友信任美妝部落格、部落客的原因，就可取得部落格行銷之先機。本研究發現20-29歲女性在制訂美妝產品購買決策時，除了價格因素外，最重要的因素來自於網友評價。美妝部落格部落客成為美妝領域的「意見領袖」，將影響力由虛擬網路世界深入實體世界。我們將影響部落格可信度因素分為：(1)使用時間、(2)使用動機：資訊搜索、人際互動與娛樂消遣、(3)部落格特性：更新快速、自主控制、互動性、多媒體與分眾化、(4)自我揭露、(5)商業意圖揭露等五大要素。結果發現「資訊蒐集」、「人際互動」、「多媒體」、「主題性」與「自我揭露」等五個變項對可信度有正向影響；而「內容詳盡」與「商業意圖揭露負面感知」對可信度影響為負向。 本研究建議在部落格行銷上，應改進過去多用「量產」的口碑行銷方式贏得市面上的曝光量與正面評價，以提升文章深度。多媒體方面可以提升圖文的質感，主題性上可以形塑部落客在美妝領域的專業角色，並利用自我揭露的方式拉近與網友的距離等方式提高可信度。另外要注意內容過於詳盡易帶給網友不信任的負面觀感，而商業意圖不僅是政府開始注意的議題，也是美妝部落格可信度的殺手。 / According to a Ministry of Economic Affair’s study, cosmetic industry in Taiwan is continuously growing under the global economic recession in recent years. The makeup product market is greater than NT 720 billion a year in Taiwan, in which the proportion of the skin care product market in cosmetic industry remains 40%., which may show the potential of this industry. Therefore, it is important for marketers to understand the behavior of consumers in this industry, especially women’s, accounting for most of the share. Women between 20 and 29 will consider other users’ evaluation of products when they have to make decisions on purchasing cosmetic products. Therefore, it is natural to infer that cosmetic blogs and bloggers will become “opinion leaders” in cosmetic areas, and they may exert their influence on consumers’ consumption. If we know why and how users trust in cosmetic blogs and bloggers, we may help the cosmetics marketing in blogosphere. . Factors affecting blog credibility were divided into five dimensions: (1) time, (2) motivation: information exchange, personal relationship and social recreation, (3) blog feature: quick update, independent control, interactive, multimedia and fragmentation, (4) self-disclosure, (5) business intention disclosure. We found that “information exchange”, “personal relationship”, “multimedia”, “fragmentation” and “self-disclosure” have positive effects on credibility. On the contrary, content of blog feature—“detailed content” and “disclosure of intention to sell” have negative effects. Consequently, this study suggests that from a multimedia perspective, bloggers should improve quality of posts, and upgrade blogger’s professional images. Furthermore, using self-disclosure strategies may improve relationships between bloggers and visitors. Last but not least, detailed content easily brings negative impression, and intentions to sell in blogs were not only monitored by government but viewed as defect of credibility by visitors.

Τα τελευταία χρόνια παρατηρείται μια στροφή της αγοράς καλλυντικών προς τα φυσικά καλλυντικά, σε παγκόσμιο επίπεδο. Αυτή η στροφή είναι αποτέλεσμα του υποστηρικτικού Marketing των εταιρειών φυσικών καλλυντικών καθώς και της εν γένει αντίληψης του κοινού περί αγνότητας των φυσικών καλλυντικών. Διερεύνηση των οικονομικών μεγεθων της αγοράς καθώς και συμπλήρωση αντίστοιχου ερωτηματολογίου προς τεκμηρίωση της ανωτέρω στροφής. / In the past few year is observed a turn of purchase of cosmetics to the natural cosmetics, in worldwide range. This turn is result of supporting Marketing of companies of natural cosmetics as well as in general perception of public chastity of natural cosmetics. Investigation of economic sizes of market as well as completion of corresponding questionnaire to documentation of above turn