Τα τελευταία χρόνια παρατηρείται μια στροφή της αγοράς καλλυντικών προς τα φυσικά καλλυντικά, σε παγκόσμιο επίπεδο. Αυτή η στροφή είναι αποτέλεσμα του υποστηρικτικού Marketing των εταιρειών φυσικών καλλυντικών καθώς και της εν γένει αντίληψης του κοινού περί αγνότητας των φυσικών καλλυντικών. Διερεύνηση των οικονομικών μεγεθων της αγοράς καθώς και συμπλήρωση αντίστοιχου ερωτηματολογίου προς τεκμηρίωση της ανωτέρω στροφής. / In the past few year is observed a turn of purchase of cosmetics to the natural cosmetics, in worldwide range. This turn is result of supporting Marketing of companies of natural cosmetics as well as in general perception of public chastity of natural cosmetics. Investigation of economic sizes of market as well as completion of corresponding questionnaire to documentation of above turn

The literature survey reports that persons electing cosmetic plastic surgery for aesthetic or medical reasons, or those persons not electing any form of surgery, often experience physical, psychological and socio-cultural problems. The complexity among the associated variables, body images, identity status, fashionable clothing behaviour and social self-consciousness were investigated comparatively, using a biopsychosocial approach. The samples consisted of cosmetic surgery patients (n=25), Black and White female fashion participants (n=60) and breast oncology case studies (n=3). The research methods included descriptive and inferential statistics. A maximum of six questionnaires was administered per individual. The results indicated that a positive body image perception was related to identity integrity, fashionable dressing and a sense of social acceptance. Insight into the importance placed on the body as a means of self-expression can contribute to successful cosmetic and breast oncology surgery and also promote intercultural harmony, by reducing body-based prejudice. / Psychology / M.A. (Psychology)

Made available in DSpace on 2014-07-29T15:29:19Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 RENATA.pdf: 841954 bytes, checksum: 22a19d48bb00070603bf3c14a16b8ab8 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-11-25 / OBJECTIVES: To compare the prevalence of shoulder-arm morbidity, quality of life (QOL) and satisfaction with surgical treatment in women submitted to quadrantectomy with those submitted to modified radical mastectomy (MRM) with immediate breast reconstruction (IBR). METHODS: A cross-sectional study was performed on women with breast cancer who had been submitted to quadrantectomy or to MRM+IBR with a transverse rectus abdominis myocutaneous (TRAM) flap, who had completed treatment at least six months previously. A total of 44 women submitted to quadrantectomy and 26 submitted to MRM+IBR were included in the study. RESULTS: Prevalence of lymphedema was 12% in the MRM+IBR group and 18% in the quadrantectomy group (OR: 0.51; 95%CI: 0.02-10.1; p=0.66). There was a greater prevalence of restricted inner shoulder rotation in the women submitted to quadrantectomy (OR: 7.23; 95%CI: 1.28-17.1; p=0.03). There was no difference in QOL scores or satisfaction with surgery. When the participants were questioned whether they would have opted for a different surgical technique, 25% of women in the MRM+IBR group and 12% in the quadrantectomy group reported that they would have made a different choice (adjusted analysis, OR: 7.4; 95%CI: 0.7- 73.3; p=0.09). CONCLUSIONS: The present findings suggest that the type of surgery does not affect the occurrence of lymphedema. Quadrantectomy increased the likelihood of restricted shoulder movement. In addition, the two surgical techniques evaluated were found to exert a similar effect on QOL and on the woman s satisfaction with surgery. / OBJETIVOS: Comparar a prevalência da morbidade no complexo ombro-braço, satisfação com o tratamento cirúrgico e a qualidade de vida (QV) de mulheres submetidas à quadrantectomia às daquelas submetidas à mastectomia radical modificada (MRM) com reconstrução imediata (RI) da mama. MÉTODOS: Conduziu-se um estudo de corte transversal incluindo mulheres com câncer de mama, que haviam se submetido à quadrantectomia ou à MRM+RI com retalho miocutâneo transverso do músculo reto abdominal, que apresentavam pelo menos seis meses de término do tratamento. Foram incluídas 44 mulheres submetidas à quadrantectomia e 26 à MRM+RI. RESULTADOS: A prevalência de linfedema foi de 12% no grupo de MRM+RI e 18% na quadrantectomia (OR: 0,51; IC 95%: 0,02-10,1; p=0,66). As mulheres submetidas à quadrantectomia apresentaram maior prevalência de restrição do movimento de rotação interna do ombro (OR: 7,23; IC 95%; 1,28-17,1; p=0,03). Não houve diferença nos escores de QV e da satisfação com a cirurgia. Quando as participantes foram questionadas se optariam por outra técnica cirúrgica, 25% no grupo de MRM+RI e 12% no grupo de quadrantectomia referiram que fariam uma escolha diferente (análise ajustada, OR: 7,4; IC 95%: 0,7-73,3; p=0,09). CONCLUSÕES: Nossos dados sugerem que o tipo de cirurgia não influenciou a ocorrência de linfedema. A quadrantectomia aumentou a chance de restrição do movimento do ombro. Observou-se ainda que a técnica cirúrgica apresentou impacto semelhante na QV e na satisfação da mulher com a cirurgia.

Os produtos cosméticos e farmacêuticos contendo componentes de origem natural têm aumentado significativamente nos últimos anos. Com o objetivo de utilizar esses componentes como conservante em formulações cosméticas, determinou-se a atividade antimicrobiana do extrato bruto de folhas de Rubus rosaefolius Sm. e suas frações. Aquele de melhor desempenho foi avaliado quanto à toxicidade in vitro e seu comportamento em formulações cosméticas (creme, gel e xampu), relacionado à estabilidade, eficácia do sistema conservante e compatibilidade epidérmica. A atividade antimicrobiana foi determinada pelo método de microdiluição e a concentração de 0,2% (p/v) do extrato bruto apresentou melhor desempenho. O teste de toxicidade do extrato bruto foi realizado por meio do método colorimétrico Cell Titer 96®, MTS, em cultura de queratinócitos humanos, constatando-se índice de citotoxicidade (IC50) de 1,0 mg/mL. As formulações cosméticas contendo o extrato foram analisadas quanto à estabilidade e as de melhor desempenho foram submetidas ao teste de eficácia do sistema conservante, de acordo com os procedimentos descritos na CTFA. O sistema conservante mostrou-se efetivo frente à Escherichia coli IAL 2393 (ATCC 10536), a Pseudomonas aeruginosa IAL 1874 (ATCC 9027), ao Staphylococcus aureus IAL 1875 (ATCC 6548), a Burkholderia cepacia IAL 1834 ATCC (17759) e a Candida albicans IAL 1611 (ATCC 10231). Avaliouse a compatibilidade epidérmica das formulações em equivalentes dermo-epidérmicos, sistema tridimensional cultivados na superfície ar-líquido. Os resultados mostraram que houve diferenças na compatibilidade epidérmica dependendo das características dos componentes das formulações. Concluiu-se que o extrato bruto de folhas de Rubus rosaefolius Sm. a 0,2% (p/v) pode ser utilizado como candidato a conservante em formulações cosméticas, sendo estável e apresentar compatibilidade epidérmica. / Cosmetic and pharmaceuticals products contained natural compounds have increased in the last few years. To verify the use of these compounds as preservative in formulations, the antimicrobial activity from the raw extract of the Rubus rosaefolius Sm. leaves and its fractions was determined. The toxicity in vitro and the behavior in cosmetic formulations (gel, emulsion and shampoo), regarding to the stability, effectiveness of the preservative system, and epidermal compatibility were evaluated in the extract, which had the best preservative action. The antimicrobial activity was determined by the micro dilution method, and the 0.2% concentration (w/v) of the raw extract had the best performance. The toxicity of the extract was analyzed by Cell Titer 96® colorimetric; MTS method in human keratinocytes culture, and the index of cytotoxicity (IC 50) found was 1.0 mg/mL. The cosmetic formulations with the raw extract were analyzed regarding to the stability and the best formulations were submitted to preservative challenge test, according to CTFA procedures. The preservative system was effective against Escherichia coli IAL 2393 (ATCC 10536), Pseudomonas aeruginosa IAL 1874 (ATCC 9027), Staphylococcus aureus IAL 1875 (ATCC 6548), Burkholderia cepacia IAL 1834 ATCC (17759), and Candida albicans IAL 1611 (ATCC 10231). The epidermal compatibility of the formulations was verified by skin (dermo-epidermal) equivalent, three-dimensional system, cultivated in the air-liquid surface. The results showed there were differences in the epidermal compatibility depended on the ingredient of formulation. In conclusion, the raw extract from the Rubus rosaefolius Sm leaves 0.2% (w/v) can be used as preservative candidate in the cosmetic formulations analyzed due to stability and it presented epidermal compatibility.

A análise sensorial é uma metodologia científica utilizada para mensurar, avaliar e interpretar reações relacionadas às características de produtos tais como são percebidas através dos sentidos, respondendo à bem mais que simplesmente à preferência por algum produto em detrimento de outros. Métodos científicos específicos têm sido desenvolvidos para medir ou estimar objetivamente, com precisão e reprodutibilidade, as respostas humanas aos estímulos a que são submetidos. Os testes descritivos, que compõem parte da análise sensorial, exigem controle cuidadoso das possíveis variáveis capazes de interferir no resultado, tais como ambiente do teste, armazenamento das amostras, condições da pele dos painelistas, seleção e treinamento de atributos do produto a serem avaliados. A filosofia do treinamento é proporcionar uma mesma experiência sensorial aos painelistas através do uso de uma ampla variedade de amostras de referências, conceitos, terminologias, protocolos e escalas, o que é essencial para estabelecer um quadro comum de referências, cujo propósito é remover a conotação \"subjetiva\" desta metodologia sensorial. Ao fazer uso desta metodologia, obtivemos respostas coerentes, similares e com pequenos desvios padrão após treinamento de três meses com o painel, o qual foi capaz de diferenciar sete produtos comerciais hidratantes nos atributos estudados / Sensory analysis is a scientific method used to measure, analyze and interpret reactions related to product characteristics such as perceived through the senses, responding to much more than simply preference for one product over another. Specific scientific methods have been developed to measure or estimate objectively, accurately and reproducibility human responses to stimuli that they are submitted. Descriptive tests, which are part of sensory analysis, require careful control of possible variables that can affect the results, such as test environment, sample storage, skin conditions of the panelists, product attributes selection and training. The training philosophy is to provide the same sensory experience to panelists through the use of a wide variety of references samples, concepts, terminology, protocols, and scales, which is essential to establish a common frame of reference, whose purpose is to remove the\"subjective\" connotation from this sensory methodology. By using this methodology, we achieved consistente, similar and with small standard deviations answers, after three months of training with the panel, which was able to distinguish seven moisturizers commercial products into the studied attributes

This thesis analyzes Czech cosmetic company Dermacol in the on-line environment. The crucial goal was to give a compact overview of Dermacol's on-line activities and propose their possible improvement. The theoretical part describes and contrasts the purchase decision process in a traditional store and on the internet. Furthemore, it depicts the evolution of the internet and e-commerce in the Czech Republic. In the next part the situation on the market with decorative cosmetics and Dermacol's position on it is analyzed. Crucial part is dedicated to the on-line tools which are used by Dermacol for its presentation, communication and sale. The recommendations and possible proposals for improvement follow. In the end the thesis deals with a research whose goal was to find out the attitude of the Czech consumers towards decorative cosmetics. Moreover, the research examined the awareness about Dermacol's web and e-hop and the willingness of the Czech women to buy decorative cosmetics via internet.

This thesis is focused on the development and characterization of hydrogels containing humic substances with possible use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. This work follows on the bachelor thesis, theoretical and experimental part is based on already acquired knowledge. The aim of this work was to develop a literature review focusing on the potential use humic gels in practice and also to enhance the consistency of other active ingredients. Based on this literature review, the main aim was to prepare model humic hydrogels with selected active ingredients and their characterization by basic methods of material analysis. These basic methods were especially rheology and visual assessment of consistency during the preparation, then the samples were subjected process of drying and swelling. Experimental results showed considerable influences during the preparation and composition of each sample, which then reflected in their structure and consistency. Furthermore, it was found that the suitable composition and combination of ingredients form hydrogels acceptable characteristics for further use in cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications.

In this thesis we deal with pragmatic aspects of language, specifically studying the classification of speech acts and conversational implicature. The theoretical part is concerned with the work of J. L. Austin, J. R. Searle and M. Grepl with an emphasis on differences in the classification of illocutionary acts. Then we deal with the maxim of politeness and pleasantries types according to P. Brown and S. C. Lewinson. In the practical part using analysis of advertising headlines and slogans we are trying to demonstrate the functionality of the classification of speech acts by individual authors. We try to also confirm the performative nature of these statements also implicitly expressed performative verbs. We are interested in the presence of the maxims of politeness in these texts and the consequent shift between different types of courtesy. The aim is to highlight the issue of classification of illocutionary acts and try to outline improvements to this shift. The assumption is that, although the classification struggling with inaccuracies, we thereunder able to distinguish different types of repetitive speeches. To complement these findings, we want to prove performative character of advertising texts, even assuming that there will be implicitly expressed performative verb and the presence of...

La responsabilidad social empresarial (RSE) causa gran impacto en el nuevo consumidor debido a que este es más sensible a los problemas que existen en la sociedad, fomentando así una mayor empatía entre consumidores y empresas. Por esa razón, hoy el consumidor antes de realizar una compra tiene presente y/o investiga las actividades de responsabilidad social que haya realizado la empresa que tenga en mente y también, las de la competencia para así decidir la compra entre una u otra. El estudio analizará la influencia de la responsabilidad económica, legal, ética y filantrópica (dimensiones de la RSE) en la imagen de marca e intención de compra de los consumidores de productos cosméticos con la finalidad de saber qué tipo de actividades son más valoradas por ellos. En este estudio, la imagen de marca y la intención de compra se consideraron como variables dependientes, mientras que las dimensiones de la RSE (económica, legal, ética y filantrópica) fueron las variables independientes. Los datos para el estudio se obtendrán a partir de 400 mujeres entre 25 y 35 años de NSE ABC, que residan en Lima Metropolitana y que hayan comprado, en el último año, productos cosméticos. Para el análisis de los datos se usará el modelamiento de ecuaciones estructurales. / Corporate social responsibility (CSR) causes a great impact on the new consumer because he is more sensitive to the problems that exist in society, thus fostering greater empathy between consumers and companies. For that reason, today the consumer before making a purchase is aware of and / or investigates the social responsibility activities that the company has in mind and also those of the competition in order to decide the purchase between one or the other. The study will analyze the influence of economic, legal, ethical and philanthropic responsibility (dimensions of CSR) on the brand image and purchase intention of consumers of cosmetic products in order to know what type of activities are most valued by them. In this study, brand image and purchase intention were considered as dependent variables, while the dimensions of CSR (economic, legal, ethical and philanthropic) were the independent variables. The data for the study will be obtained from 400 women between the ages of 25 and 35 from NSE ABC, who reside in Metropolitan Lima and who have bought cosmetic products in the last year. For the analysis of the data, the modeling of structural equations will be used. / Trabajo de investigación

Depuis le 11 juillet 2013, date d’application du Règlement cosmétique (CE) No 1223/2009, les metteurs sur le marché sont dans l’obligation de mentionner sur leurs produits la Date de Durabilité Minimale (DDM), ou si celle-ci excède 30 mois, la Période Après Ouverture (PAO). L’estimation de ces dates n’est pas encadrée réglementairement. Cosmetics Europe, l’Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé, le Comité scientifique pour la sécurité du consommateur ou encore la Commission Européenne proposent des lignes directrices, mais les conditions d’étude pour la détermination de la DDM et de la PAO restent encore à l’appréciation de la personne responsable de la commercialisation du produit. L’objectif de ce travail était d’étudier les conditions nécessaires à la mise en place d’un protocole de mesure de la stabilité d’émulsions cosmétiques, permettant de déterminer la DDM du produit de manière fiable et rapide. Pour cela, une approche expérimentale sur une émulsion représentative de l’industrie cosmétique a été menée. L’évolution des paramètres organoleptiques, physico-chimiques et microbiologiques a été évaluée, en accéléré (température augmentée) et en temps réel. Une approche statistique a montré que les propriétés sensorielles évoluent différemment en fonction de la température et du matériau dans lequel l’émulsion est stockée. L’établissement d’un modèle de correspondance entre le vieillissement en conditions réelles et en conditions accélérées a pu être proposé pour certains paramètres physico-chimiques. Les études de microbiologie se sont tout d’abord concentrées sur la validation d’une méthode commerciale, alternative au dénombrement des germes aérobies totaux encadré par la norme ISO 21149, pour une application dans le domaine cosmétique. Après validation, la méthode a été utilisée comme un outil simple, rapide et économique pour le suivi de la stabilité microbiologique de l’émulsion de référence. La dégradation des conservateurs et de l’antioxydant présents dans la formule de référence a été suivie par chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC-MS). Ce suivi a permis de mettre en évidence l’effet probable de la lumière sur la dégradation des actifs de l’émulsion. A ces tests ont été associés une stratégie analytique visant à étudier la photostabilité de l’émulsion. Les études ont porté sur deux molécules : l’acide déhydroacétique et l’alpha-tocophérol. La stratégie a permis de caractériser les mécanismes impliqués dans les réactions de photodégradation. La chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée à la spectrométrie de masse multi-étapes (GC-MSn) et la chromatographie en phase liquide couplée à la spectrométrie de masse haute résolution en tandem (LC-HR-MS/MS) ont été utilisées pour la séparation et l'identification structurale des photoproduits. La détection des photoproduits majoritaires dans l’émulsion de référence, après irradiation UV-visible, montre la possible formation des photoproduits dans une matrice complexe de type émulsion huile/eau. Les résultats des tests de toxicité, in silico et/ou in vitro, ont démontré l’importance de prendre en compte la formation éventuelle de photoproduits dans l’évaluation de la sécurité d’un produit cosmétique. / According to Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009, implemented in July 2013, the manufacturer must mention the Date of Minimum Durability (DMD), or if DMD exceeds 30 months, the Period After Opening (PAO) on the product packaging. At the present time, no text regulates the procedures applicable to the validation of a DMD or a PAO. Some guidelines are published by Cosmetics Europe, the National Agency for the safety of medicines and health products, the Scientific Committee for consumer safety, or the European Commission; but the evaluation remains at the discretion of the person responsible for marketing the product. In this context, this work proposes recommendations to establish a stability protocol in order to quickly determine the DMD. Experimental approaches on an emulsion representative of the major category in the cosmetics industry have been established. Organoleptic, physicochemical and microbiological stabilities were evaluated. The emulsion stability has been tested in accelerated conditions and in real time. A statistical approach has been proposed to evaluate the product shelf life according to its organoleptic properties. The sensory properties of the cosmetic emulsion changed differently depending on the temperature and the material in which it has been stored. A mathematical correlation between the results of studies under normal and those obtained under accelerated conditions has been proposed for some parameters. A microbiological study focused on the validation of a commercially available method, alternative to total count of aerobic microorganisms, normed by the ISO 21149 for cosmetic application. Once validated, this method has been used as an economical, quick and easy tool to evaluate the microbiological stability of cosmetic emulsions. Gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry was used to follow the degradation of antioxidant and preservatives. To take into account the photostability of the emulsion, an analytical strategy was proposed to identify the mechanisms involved in phototransformation reactions. The study focused on two molecules: dehydroacetic acid and alpha-tocopherol. Both gas chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) and liquid chromatography coupled with ultrahigh resolution mass spectrometry (LC-UHR-MS) were used for the separation and the structural identification of photoproducts. The main photoproducts were detected in the reference emulsion after UV-visible irradiation, thus showing the possible formation of photoproducts in a complex oil/water emulsion. Both in silico and in vitro toxicity tests highlighted the need for taking into account the potential formation of photoproducts in the safety evaluation of a cosmetic product.