Organic cotton has been in the medias field of vision for quite some time. This interestalso reflects in a growing awareness in the textile industry where more and morecompanies today offer organic cotton in their product range. With this in mind wequestion whether organic cotton has become a viable commercial product. We alsoacknowledge there is a lacking of understanding the complex problems that organiccotton manufacture involves, for example the huge effort and cost required for a transitionfrom conventional to organic cotton farming.The purpose of this paper was to study how textile, ecology and competition today arebeing combined by companies. We wanted with our investigation to find out whethercompanies in the textile industry use ecology as a competitive advantage. Moreover thepurpose of this paper was to reproduce a comprehensive image of organic cotton whichenabled us to determine if the medias positive image is correct. We choose to examine ourwork on the basis of a company perspective which resulted in delimitation from theconsumer’s perspective.The scientific approach of the study has been qualitative with the goal to produce adeeper understanding of our problems. The empirical material mainly consists ofinterviews done with our three case companies, Dunderdon, Dem Collective andKappahl. The companies are differing in both size and characteristics which was adeliberate choice. We think this selection made it possible for us to examine variousperspectives of the textile industry despite our meagre resources.In the theoretical frame of reference we have chosen to use Porter’s Five Forces, Kotler&amp; Armstrong’s communication model and Holm’s model which explains the relationshipbetween a company’s identity, profile and image. The interviews have been interpretedand analysed in relation to given theories and models.Our interpretation and analysis showed that all case companies had a strongenvironmental policy and a genuine interest to work for a sustainable development,which they all expressed through their organic product range. The study showed thatnone of the companies deliberately or directly uses organic products in a marketingpurpose. We have hence come to the conclusion that textile companies do not useecology in order to obtain competitive advantages. Our study also enabled us to establishthat the medias positive portrayal of organic cotton is incorrect, which we indirectlybelieve has had an impact on the low demand in organic cotton products. / <p>Program: Textilekonomutbildningen</p><p>Uppsatsnivå: C</p>

The theoretical part deals with system fair trade, cultivate and produce of fair trade and organic cotton. Following there are describe standards for small fair trade cotton producers and fair trade textile standard. There are presented some czech producers of organic cotton and some fair trade cotton farmers. The practical part contains results of questionnaires, which show views of consumers on organic and fair trade cotton. Futhermore the are analyse offers of organic and fair trade cotton in selected retail chains.

El presente trabajo de investigación colocó a prueba todos nuestros conocimientos adquiridos durante el tiempo que duró la carrera, este proyecto radica en crear una idea de negocio innovadora, sustentable y viable. Los resultados de nuestras encuestas se pudieron analizar e identificar que existe un porcentaje de la población que presenta problemas de encontrar prendas amigables con el medio ambiente, muchas de ellas asisten a las tiendas por departamento de la cual no encuentran vestidos de algodón orgánico. Por tal motivo, surge Eco Vestidos, una idea de negocio que se basa en elaborar y comercializar vestidos 100% orgánicos y vender a través de su página web. Para desarrollar el actual proyecto se cuenta con un equipo de trabajo femeninas con los talentos y cualidades adecuados para cumplir nuestros objetivos y metas. Este proyecto logra cumplir los objetivos estratégicos propuestos, porque se obtiene una rentabilidad promedio anual de 17.59% y un adicional un VPN de S/1,130,953 expresados en término del año cero para todos los que financian este proyecto. Finalmente, por una inversión de S/96,041 en este proyecto, se obtiene una rentabilidad promedio anual de 14.47% y adicionalmente se obtendrá S/1,317,110 expresado en término del año cero para los cuatro inversionistas. Finalmente, el proyecto asegura una participación de mercado del 20% a partir del quinto año con una utilidad aproximada de del 15% de las ventas. Afirmando así, que es un proyecto viable. / This research work put our knowledge acquired during the time of the race to the test, this project lies in creating an innovative, sustainable and viable business idea. The results of our surveys could be analyzed and identified that there is a percentage of the population that has problems in finding environmentally friendly clothes, many of them attend department stores for which they do not find organic cotton dresses. For this reason, Eco Dresses arises, a business idea that is based on developing and marketing 100% organic dresses and selling through its website. To develop the current project, we have a female team with the appropriate talents and qualities to meet our objectives and goals. This project manages to meet the proposed strategic objectives, because an average annual profitability of 17.59% is obtained and an additional NPV of S/1,130,953 expressed in term of year zero for all those who finance this project. Finally, for an investment of S/96,041, an average annual return of 14.47% is obtained and additionally S/1,317,110 will be obtained, expressed in term of year zero ´for the four investors. Finally, the project ensures a market share of 20% from the fifth year with a profit of approximately 15% of sales. Affirming thus, that it is a viable project. We can also say that it is a sustainable business over time, for several main points: one is the type of material to use, fashion and, lastly, e-commerce channel. / Trabajo de investigación

Allt fler konsumenter väljer att göra ekologiska val, detta på grund av en ökad medvetenhet samt ett intresse för miljön. Bomull är en av de fibrer som används mest i kläder, trots detta så är bomullsproduktionen väldigt påfrestande för miljön. Mycket giftiga kemikalier, konstgödsel samt stora mängder vatten används vid dessa odlingar. Då bomullsodlingar är så pass resurskrävande måste alla klädföretag visa sitt engagemang i denna fråga. Detta kan göras på olika sätt, att välja ekologisk bomull framför konventionell bomull är då ett steg i riktning då den ekologiska bomullen är helt befriad från kemikalier och andra farliga medel.Syftet är att denna rapport ska verka som ett underlag för klädföretag som i dagsläget inte använder sig av ekologisk bomull. Utifrån denna problembakgrund samt syfte har en problemformulering gjorts. Huvudfrågan lyder Hur kan klädföretag gå till väga när de vill börja använda sig av ekologisk bomull? och följs av två delfrågor: På vilka sätt kan användning av ekologisk bomull främja ett klädföretags varumärke? och Hur viktigt är det för konsumenter att kläder innehåller ekologisk bomull? Vissa avgränsningar har gjorts. Med ekologisk bomull menas själva fibern, rapporten kommer ej att behandla de förädlingsprocesser som följer. Begrepp som hållbarhet, sociala samt miljöaspekter kommer att beröras då de är förknippade med ekologisk bomull. Även några textila organisationer kommer att nämnas, utan ytterligare fördjupning.Anledningen till varför denna rapport handlar om ekologisk bomull är för att det är välkänt bland konsumenter. Det är också ett material som många klädföretag börjar med när de vill använda mer hållbara material. Det finns andra hållbara alternativ som också används, men ekologisk bomull är som sagt det som flest känner till.Rapporten är skriven utifrån den vetenskapliga huvudinriktningen hermeneutik, med ett abduktivt angreppssätt. Primärdata har samlats in via personliga samt mailintervjuer, även genom enkäter som skickats ut till konsumenter. Dessa har bidragit till både kvalitativ och kvantitativ data. Sekundärdata har insamlats i form av litteratur, rapporter och elektroniska källor.Den teoretiska referensramen behandlar ämnesområdena bomull och textila organisationer, marknadsföring samt medveten konsumtion. Dessa ämnen har valts för att få ett så brett underlag som möjligt. Till empirin har två undersökningar gjorts, först har intervjuer genomförts med fyra svenska klädföretag. Synonymt för alla är att de arbetar med certifierade leverantörer, sedan skiljer sig utbredningen av ekologisk bomull åt samt hur mycket de arbetar med miljöfrågor. Dessutom har en konsumentundersökning gjorts, här konstaterades bland annat att konsumenter är villiga att betala något mer för ett ekologiskt bomullsplagg samt att många tror att de kan påverka klädföretagens val inom användning av ekologisk bomull.De viktigaste slutsatser som framkommit är att klädföretag bör samarbeta med certifierade leverantörer när de vill börja använda sig av ekologisk bomull, samt att det är viktigt att segmentera sin målgrupp för att nå ut till rätt kund.More and more consumers choose to make organic choices; this is because there is a greater awareness and more concern for the environment amongst consumers. Cotton is one of the most used fibers in clothing, even though the cotton production is very stressful for the environment. Toxic chemicals, fertilizers and big amounts of water are used during the cultivation. As the cotton crop is extremely resource intensive all clothing companies must demonstrate their commitment to this issue. This can be done in multiple ways. To choose organic cotton instead of conventional cotton is a better way as the organic cotton is free from toxic chemicals and fertilizers.The purpose of this thesis is to provide information and guidance for clothing companies who do not currently use organic cotton. Based on the problem background and the purpose of the thesis, research questions have been made. The main question is How can clothing companies proceed when they want to begin to use organic cotton? and this is followed by two questions: How can the use of organic cotton promote a clothing company’s brand? and How important is it for consumers that clothes contains organic cotton? A few boundaries have been created. Organic cotton means just the fiber itself; the thesis will not process the processing system of the fiber. Concepts like sustainability, social and environmental aspects will be affected as they are associated with organic cotton. Some textile organizations will also be mentioned, without further investigation.The reason why this thesis is about organic cotton is that it is well known amongst consumers. It is also a material that many clothing companies start with when they want to use more sustainable materials. There are other sustainable alternatives which are also used, but organic cotton is however a material that many consumers know.The thesis is written from the scientific area of hermeneutics, with an abductive approach. Primary data has been collected through personal and email interviews, including through questionnaires sent out to consumers. These have contributed to both qualitative and quantitative data. Secondary data was obtained in the form of literature, reports and electronic sources.The theoretical framework deals with the subjects cotton and textile associations, marketing, and conscious consumption. These subjects have been chosen to get as wide a foundation as possible. For empirical data, two studies have been done. Interviews were conducted with four Swedish clothing companies. One thing that all clothing companies has in common is that they work with certified suppliers, then the amount of organic cotton used differs between the clothing companies and also their commitment to environmental questions. A consumer survey has also been done. The result showed that consumers are willing to pay slightly more for organic cotton products, and that many consumers believe they can affect clothing companies work with organic cotton.The final conclusion is that clothing companies should cooperate with certified suppliers when they want to work with organic cotton. It is also important to segment the appropriate target group, to reach out to the right customer. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

Bakgrund och problem: Under de senaste 20 åren har en global oro växt kring konsumtionens påverkan på miljön. Faktorer som den globala uppvärmningen, hål i ozonlagret samt katastrofer som Tjernobyl var några av drivkrafterna. Historiskt börjar nu den gröna marknadsföringen att framträda på marknaden. Den delades in i tre faser varav en fas representerar marknadsföring av miljövänliga produkter, designade för att främja en hållbar konsumtion (Mishra &amp; Sharmra, 2012). Det är dock under 2000-talet som konsumenternas miljömedvetenhet leder till en ekologisk trend och livsstil. Forskare menar att ekonomisk tillväxt är den bidragande faktorn till ett ohållbart utnyttjande av jordens resurser. Således ligger framtiden i effektivisering, återvinning och ny miljövänlig teknologi för att resurserna ska räcka till. Allmänheten i industrialiserade länder är väl medvetna om de negativa effekter som deras konsumtionsbeteende har på miljön. Den ökade kunskapen bidrar till en efterfråga på ekologiska varor. De ekologiska produkterna skapar nya möjligheter för differentiering och konkurrensfördelar för företag. Men är inom klädbranschen en minoritet då konsumenternas etiska värderingar inte sammanfaller med deras prioriteringar vid ett klädköp. Problemet stärks ytterligare då klädindustrin är byggt på komplicerade system där produktionen består av lågkostnads kläder som produceras i kostnadseffektiva länder. Företag måste se över modegrad och kvalitet vid produktion av ekologiska kläder.

[pt] Tomando os materiais como ponto de partida para estimular práticas e processos mais sustentáveis na indústria da moda brasileira, essa pesquisa levanta o caso do algodão orgânico produzido no estado da Paraíba, como alternativa para minimizar impactos e reduzir os riscos da atividade produtiva ao meio ambiente e à vida das pessoas. Considerando o passado histórico da região, onde a cultura do algodão branco convencional já foi a principal atividade econômica, a pesquisa aborda a configuração da cadeia produtiva do material orgânico na atualidade até o estágio de comunicação das marcas de moda. Em razão disso, a pesquisa objetiva compreender o funcionamento da cadeia produtiva têxtil, observando as estratégias de design utilizadas, bem como o posicionamento das marcas que atuam no nicho da moda sustentável no mercado brasileiro, a fim de identificar os gargalos e as possíveis contribuições do design para que o material se torne mais amplamente utilizado. A perspectiva de desenvolvimento do cultivo do algodão orgânico está alinhada à ideia de fortalecimento do setor, que pode vir a ser uma mola propulsora para o desenvolvimento econômico, social e cultural da região, considerando ainda as particularidades da cotonicultura orgânica do ponto de vista ambiental. Esses são valores que estão inseridos no contexto da sustentabilidade e se tornaram indispensáveis ao futuro e desenvolvimento das organizações, como apontam tendências globais para o setor da indústria. / [en] Taking the material as a starting point to encourage more sustainable practices and processes in the Brazilian fashion industry, this research raises the case of organic cotton produced in the state of Paraíba, as an alternative that minimizes the impacts and reduces the risks of the productive activity to the environment and people s life. Considering the history of the region, where the culture of conventional white cotton was once the main economic activity, this research addresses the current configuration of the production chain of organic material up to the communication stage of fashion brands. As a result, this research aims to understand the functioning of the textile production chain by observing the design strategies used as well as the positioning of brands that operate within the sustainable fashion sector of the Brazilian market. This understanding will help to identify bottlenecks and possible design contributions so that the material becomes more widely used. In addition to the environmental impacts of organic cotton farming, the prospect of developing organic cotton cultivation is consistent with the idea of strengthening the sector, which may prove to be a driving force for the economic, social, and cultural development of the region. These are values that are inserted in the context of sustainability and have become indispensable for the future and development of organizations, as indicated by global trends for this sector of the industry.

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Submitted by Fernanda Ferraz (fpcf@hotmail.com) on 2018-06-20T20:53:52Z No. of bitstreams: 1 MPGC_FGV_FernandaFerraz_bliblioteca_c_ficha.docx: 8611541 bytes, checksum: ca9ae6bc6c325e031ee9e3f4cfff6a01 (MD5) / Rejected by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br), reason: Boa Noite Fernanda, Você postou seu trabalho na biblioteca na versão word. O trabalho precisa ser na versão PDF. Atenciosamente, Simone de A N Lopes Pires on 2018-06-21T21:18:28Z (GMT) / Submitted by Fernanda Ferraz (fpcf@hotmail.com) on 2018-06-22T11:57:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 MPGC_FGV_FernandaFerraz_bliblioteca_c_ficha.pdf: 3904323 bytes, checksum: 2146b8761c7801aab63e4294efc7db12 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br) on 2018-06-22T16:47:29Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 MPGC_FGV_FernandaFerraz_bliblioteca_c_ficha.pdf: 3904323 bytes, checksum: 2146b8761c7801aab63e4294efc7db12 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Isabele Garcia (isabele.garcia@fgv.br) on 2018-06-22T18:55:58Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 MPGC_FGV_FernandaFerraz_bliblioteca_c_ficha.pdf: 3904323 bytes, checksum: 2146b8761c7801aab63e4294efc7db12 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-06-22T18:55:58Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MPGC_FGV_FernandaFerraz_bliblioteca_c_ficha.pdf: 3904323 bytes, checksum: 2146b8761c7801aab63e4294efc7db12 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-06-20 / O início dos anos 2000 marcam uma nova ordem para a indústria da moda, que passa a ser demandada pelos impactos de sua cadeia de valor, evidenciando a afirmação de que empresas são avaliadas 'não apenas pelo valor econômico que adiciona[m], mas também pelo valor social e ambiental que cria[m] ou destroem' (ELKINGTON, 2004, p. 3). A cadeia do algodão – que representa 26% das matérias primas do setor têxtil – torna-se alvo de indução de práticas orientadas para uma cadeia de suprimento sustentável. Nesse contexto, o setor de algodão orgânico cresce representativamente, movido por grandes marcas que expandem coleções manufaturadas com algodão orgânico. Contudo, o algodão orgânico representa menos de 1% da produção mundial da fibra e sua adoção tem se revelado desafiadora para a indústria de moda em razão da complexidade de sourcing (originação). Reconhecendo tal contexto, a presente pesquisa pretende contribuir com a gestão sustentável da cadeia de suprimento do algodão orgânico e busca responder a seguinte questão: de que forma se dá a relação entre a indústria da moda e os agricultores familiares produtores de algodão orgânico? A pesquisa utiliza-se da metodologia de estudo de caso, envolve a cadeia de algodão da empresa de calçados (sneakers) Veja Fair Trade. A análise é baseada nos modelos de gestão sustentável da cadeia de suprimentos de Seuring e Müller (2008) e Pagell e Wu (2009). O estudo revela que as relações entre as empresas da indústria da moda e seus fornecedores agricultores familiares incluem novos comportamentos, como a participação ativa de ONGs, transparência e descomoditização, envolvendo negociação prévia à safra, pagamentos antecipados, preço acima do valor de mercado e premiações. Ao final, são apresentadas contribuições ao setor relativas à melhoria nas condições produtivas, à manutenção do jovem no campo e à integração do modelo agroecológico à denominada Indústria 4.0. / Early 2000s marked a new era for the fashion industry, that is demanded by the impact of its value chain emphasizing the statement that companies are assessed 'not only for the economic value that they add, but also for the social and environmental value that they create or destroy' (ELKINGTON, 2004, p. 3). Cotton chain – which represents 26% of the textile sector raw materials – turns into induction target of orientated practices for a sustainable supply chain. In this context, organic cotton sector grows representatively, moved by big brands that expand collections manufactured with organic cotton. However, organic cotton represents less than 1% of the fiber global production and its adoption has been revealed as challenging for the fashion industry due to sourcing complexity. Recognizing such context, the present research aims to contribute to an organic cotton sustainable supply chain management and seeks to answer the following question: how does the relationship between the fashion industry and organic cotton family farmers producers occur? The research uses the case study methodology, involves the cotton supply chain of the footwear company (sneakers) Veja Fair Trade. Analysis is based on the sustainable supply chain management models by Seuring and Müller (2008) and Pagell and Wu (2009). The study reveals that the relationship between the fashion industry companies and its family farmers producers included new behaviours, such as the active participation of NGOs, transparency and decommodization, involving the negotiation prior to the crop, advance payments, prices above market value and rewards. At the end are presented contribution to the sector related to production conditions improvement, youth retention on the farming and to the integration of the agroecological model to the named Industry 4.0.

The increase of trading has created many environmental, ecological, social and ethical problems. The main concern across all industries is to create more sustainable, eco-friendly and ethical manufacturing processes. Only by influence consumer's purchasing behavior there might be the demand for eco-green products. The fashion and textile industry as one of the main contributor to the world's economy is one of the main environmental polluter (e.g.: soil, lakes, river and air). Recently, many young fashion designers started to offer eco-green fashion to the market. This new phenomenon might change the course of the world fashion industry. The goal of this research is to find out the real demand for eco-green products and its impacts on the traditional methods of fashion manufacturing. Three geographical areas where chosen to represent consumption side (US and EU (UK)) and manufacturing side (China). The specific fashion garment was chosen to demonstrate detailed analysis of the manufacturing processes and its new eco-green formula -- the denim jeans. The primary and secondary research approaches were chosen to cover the whole industrial view on this phenomenon. The outcome of the research showed that the major impact was on the general consumer's purchasing behavior and their life style. It is a new trend and concept that is reshaping the traditional fashion business models. Denim jeans industry leaders such as Levi's Strauss are in process of implementing eco-green, ethical and fair-trade factors into their long-term strategy.