Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:15:21Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Patricia Assuf Nechar.pdf: 10906984 bytes, checksum: 97da991672c8c278888afe1f3880ac7a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-11-30 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The purpose of this Master s thesis is to study the social media s discourses regarding the fat body, especially those circulating in blogs associated with the plus size universe. Inserted in the field of communication and following the processes of creation in media and culture line of research, this study focuses on mapping out and conducting a critical analysis of the processes of creating and building a body image that questions and subverts the hegemonic representations and discourses. Nowadays, the body is a frequent object of discussion in the media. Two types of discourses prevail: in the mass media, the discourse takes on an imperative note, preaching the importance of having a perfect body. In the digital media, however, it is possible to notice the emergence of a counter discourse that defends other types of bodies, which escape the rules that govern the ideal body . This Master s thesis aims to map out the multiplicity of images and discourses emerging in the cyberspace. The concept of cyberspace adopted was the one defined by Leão: a gigantic, almost endless maze of interactions typical of contemporary times, a network composed of hardware, software, people and groups. The research focuses on the following topics of discussion: daily life, body acceptance, fashion, health, self-esteem, prejudice, and respect. The theoretical frameworks adopted were: process analysis and criticism theories (Salles and Leão); body, image and power (Foucault); social networks (Costa); communication devices (Prado); body images (Sant Anna, Ortega and Vigarello). The methodology consisted of literature review; identification, selection and analysis of documents published in the social networks included in the study; image research (iconology) associated with art projects related to the concept of obese bodies; and mapping of images and imaginary as a method of knowledge production (Leão). Grounded in the idea of image, talk spaces and power (Foucault), the research shows the importance of building an imaginary. Through the analysis of documents published in these networks (photographs, records of discussions, among others), it was possible to map out the complexities of the issues involving the authors and groups in the plus size universe. Among the findings, the mapping of images and discourses conducted in this research shows that the creation of an alternative, subversive and politically engaged imaginary is essential to promote the freedom of expression and communication regarding the body that does not conform to established standards / Esta dissertação de mestrado tem como objeto de estudo os discursos das redes sociais em relação ao corpo gordo, em especial, aqueles que circulam no ciberespaço, nos blogs do universo Plus Size. Inserida no campo da comunicação, na linha de pesquisa processos de criação nas mídias e na cultura, nossa pesquisa tem como foco o mapeamento e análise crítica dos processos de criação e construção de uma imagem do corpo que problematiza e subverte as representações e os discursos hegemônicos. Atualmente, o corpo é objeto de discussão frequente no universo das mídias. Observa-se a predominância de dois tipos de discursos: nas mídias de massa, os discursos assumem um caráter imperativo e pregam a valoração de um corpo ideal. Nas mídias digitais, no entanto, é possível observar a emergência de um contra-discurso que defende a valoração de outros tipos de corpos que fogem às normatizações que regem o corpo ideal. Nesse contexto, esta dissertação de mestrado tem como objetivo cartografar as imagens e discursos que emergem no ciberespaço, em suas multiplicidades. Entende-se o conceito de ciberespaço tal como foi definido por Leão: um labirinto gigantesco e quase-infinito de interações da era contemporânea, uma rede composta por hardwares, softwares, pessoas e grupos. Entre os temas que circulam nas discussões elencamos: cotidiano, aceitação do corpo, moda, saúde, autoestima, preconceito e respeito. A pesquisa tem como referencial teórico: teorias de análise e crítica de processos (Salles e Leão); corpo, imagem e poder (Foucault); redes sociais (Costa); dispositivos comunicacionais (Prado); imagens do corpo (Sant Anna, Ortega e Vigarello). A metodologia é composta por revisão bibliográfica; coleta, seleção e análise de documentos das redes sociais elencadas; pesquisa imagens (iconologia) vinculada a projetos artísticos que se relacionam com o conceito de corpos obesos; e cartografia de imagens e imaginários como método de produção de conhecimento (Leão). Fundamentada na ideia de imagem, espaços de conversações e poder (Foucault), a pesquisa demonstra a importância da construção de um imaginário. Através da análise dos documentos que circulam nessas redes (imagens fotográficas, registros de discussões em rede, entre outros) foi possível mapear as complexidades das questões de natureza relacional que constituem os autores e os grupos do universo plus size. Entre os resultados alcançados, a cartografia de imagens e discursos desenvolvida em nossa pesquisa demonstra que a criação de um imaginário alternativo, subversivo e politicamente engajado é fundamental na valoração aos direitos de expressão e comunicação vinculados ao corpo situado fora dos padrões estabelecidos

Substantial research on the functionality of athletic apparel has been conducted; however little consideration has been given to the plus size figure. Societal messages suggest that overweight women are lazy and therefore would not be interested in athletic apparel. The purpose of this study was to determine overweight adult women's experience with athletic clothing. The sample consisted of 14 women, ages 30 to 65 who wore size 1X to 3X. They were each supplied with a Nike brand athletic outfit and participated in two in depth interviews. Data collection methods included qualitative interviews, quantitative surveys and guided journaling. The major findings suggest that overweight women have difficulty shopping for clothing. Difficulty and frustration was experienced on a number of levels including; limited stores, limited selection and styles, fitting issues, over-priced items and less color options compared to smaller sizes. The findings suggest overweight women experience emotional anxiety when trying on clothing for the first time. Dissatisfaction with clothing fit was attributed to the belief their body is unsuitable and needs to change. Satisfaction with clothing fit was attributed to the ability of the apparel designer. Many negative experiences have left this sample feeling disappointed and marginalized. Some participant's experienced increased desire to participate in physical activity while others felt exercise was a necessity regardless of the clothing available. By trying on the Nike brand clothing, it gave the women in this study an alternative way of dressing themselves which has enabled several women to feel differently about their size and their body in athletic clothing. The current sample showed behaviors of internalization by using dehumanizing terms to describe body parts. The sample felt discriminated against in the media and wanted to see larger women modeling clothing. Apparel companies should include a wider variety of sizes in their brick and mortar stores as to not alienate a population. Apparel companies should incorporate diverse models into advertisement to include the plus-size population. Proving high quality athletic apparel to plus size women provided an opportunity for them to experience their bodies in a new perspective. Future studies should develop new pattern making, grading and sizing techniques in order to provide better fitting athletic apparel for large size bodies. Studies expanding on fit and comfort of athletic apparel for large bodies should be explored. This paper provides an initial indication of how plus size women experience athletic apparel. Further understanding of clothing, fit and exercise behavior are needed. / Graduation date: 2013 / Access restricted to the OSU Community at author's request from July 18, 2012 - January 18, 2013

[pt] A cultura de consumo é uma arena para a produção e circulação de representações identitárias. Nesse espaço, o estigma do peso pode afetar diretamente a criação de um projeto identitário. Diante de uma recorrente dificuldade de atenderem seus desejos próprios de consumo de vestuário, os projetos identitários de mulheres obesas acabam sendo impactados pelas condições estabelecidas pela indústria da moda, que, por décadas, adotou um posicionamento marginal em relação ao segmento plus size. Apesar do tamanho deste segmento, existe uma carência de estudos qualitativos direcionados ao consumo simbólico de moda plus size no Brasil, especialmente com um olhar voltado à reconstrução da identidade de mulheres submetidas à cirurgia bariátrica. Portanto, este trabalho investigou, a partir de uma perspectiva interpretativa, os significados simbólicos do consumo de vestuário plus size feminino e como a cirurgia bariátrica impacta na reconstrução da identidade de consumidoras obesas e sua relação com a moda. Foram realizadas entrevistas em profundidade com 15 mulheres bariatricadas, entre 30 e 50 anos de idade, selecionadas por meio da técnica bola de neve. Todas as entrevistas foram gravadas e transcritas integralmente, e analisadas de forma sistemática a partir de categorias que emergiram do campo. Os resultados sugerem a existência de uma variedade de aspectos subjetivos associados à reconstrução da identidade por essas mulheres, por conta da passagem pela cirurgia bariátrica, que refletem expressivamente os diversos significados atribuídos ao consumo simbólico de moda feminina, com destaque a novas percepções, hábitos, experiências e preferências de consumo. / [en] Consumer culture is an arena for the production and circulation of identity representations. In this space, the stigma of weight may directly impact the creation of an identity project. Faced with a recurrent difficulty in meeting their own clothing consumption desires, the identity projects of obese women have been impacted by the conditions established by the fashion industry, which has adopted a marginal position about the plus size segment for decades. However, despite the size of this segment, there is a lack of qualitative studies aimed at the symbolic consumption of plus size fashion in Brazil, especially with a view to identity reconstruction of women who have undergone bariatric surgery. Therefore, this work proposes to investigate, from an interpretive perspective, the symbolic meanings of the consumption of female plus size clothing and how bariatric surgery impacts the identity reconstruction of obese consumers and their relationship with fashion. By exploring this phenomenon, aspects such as the social stigma to obesity, the segregation of the fashion universe, and the retail influences on these women shopping experiences were highlighted. In-depth interviewing was conducted with 15 bariatric women, between 30 and 50 years of age, using the snowball sampling technique. All interviews were fully recorded and transcribed. The analysis used categories that emerged from the field. The results suggest the existence of a variety of subjective aspects associated to the identity reconstruction of these women, due to the experience of bariatric surgery, which reflects expressively in the various meanings attributed to the symbolic consumption of women s fashion, with emphasis on new consumption perceptions, habits, experiences, and preferences.

Purpose: The purpose of this paper to analyze whether there is any connection between the brand identity of four Swedish fashion companies and their lack of a comprehensive size range for women.  Both primary and secondary data has been the basis of this paper. A theoretical framework using brand identity and STP models was created with the help of secondary data.  Limitations: The choice to investigate four case companies limits the ability to generalize the results. In order to reach a comprehensive industry understanding, additional case companies would be needed.   Method: The study is based on deductive approach with qualitative research. In the deductive approach, the researcher uses existing theoretical models within brand identity and the STP process to help analyze the empirical data and draw conclusions.   Results: The results show that the cost of producing a narrower range of clothing is the main reason why the companies do not offer larger clothing sizes for women. The second factor, according to three of the four companies, is that it is technically difficulty to simply increase the size of clothing, and would require specialist knowledge to adapt the designs. Two of the four companies see some connection between brand identity and the lack of a comprehensive size range, but view this not as a decisive factor but rather, an influencing factor. / Syfte: Syftet med uppsatsen är att utifrån fyra svenska modebolags perspektiv analysera om det finns något samband mellan deras varumärkesidentitet och dess avsaknad av heltäckande storleksutbud för kvinnor. Både primär och sekundär data har legat till grund för denna studie. Med hjälp av sekundära data har den teoretiska referensramen, som använder varumärkesidentitet och STP-modellen, skapats.   Avgränsning: Valet att undersöka fyra fallföretag utgör ingen generaliserbarhet. För det behövs undersökning av ytterligare flera fallföretag genomföras. På så sätt kan en generell branschförståelse fås.   Metod: Studien utgår från en deduktiv ansats med en kvalitativ forskningsmetod. I den deduktiva ansatsen kommer forskaren använda sig av befintliga teoretiska modeller inom varumärkesidentitet och STP processen som hjälp för att analysera data i empirin och dra slutsatser.   Resultat: För de undersökta bolagen visar resultatet att kostnaden för produktion av mindre klädvolymer är den främsta anledningen till det avvägande man gjort om att inte erbjuda större klädstorlekar till kvinnor. Den andra faktorn är enligt tre av fyra bolag att man ser en svårighet designtekniskt att bara öka upp storleken vilket gör att det krävs specialistkunskap för att hantera större kläddesign. Sen ser två av fyra bolag ett visst samband mellan varumärkesidentiteten och det bristande heltäckande storleksutbudet, inte som en avgörande faktor men som en påverkande faktor.

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Qualquer duvida estamos a disposição, Pãmela Tonsa 3799-7852 on 2016-04-06T16:23:52Z (GMT) / Submitted by Maria Carolina Zanette (carolzanette@gmail.com) on 2016-04-06T17:12:49Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Tese final final mesmo 3.pdf: 1821304 bytes, checksum: 6e8ee30f04b4059805d8385670f3dc80 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Pamela Beltran Tonsa (pamela.tonsa@fgv.br) on 2016-04-06T18:38:23Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Tese final final mesmo 3.pdf: 1821304 bytes, checksum: 6e8ee30f04b4059805d8385670f3dc80 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-06T21:01:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Tese final final mesmo 3.pdf: 1821304 bytes, checksum: 6e8ee30f04b4059805d8385670f3dc80 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-03-10 / This Dissertation explores why the plus size fashion field lacks legitimacy with plus size consumers. I have explored the subject in three papers. In the first paper, I study the process of legitimacy of a new emergent market, the Brazilian plus-size fashion market, and the challenges to institutionalization that it faces. I conducted seventeen interviews, performed netnography in four Brazilian plus-size fashion blogs and analyzed in a semiotic fashion an e-commerce shop that sells plus size fashion clothes. My results indicate that despite having legitimate actors promoting these plus size fashion brands, the plus size fashion field is still perceived as a shameful version of the fashion field. I argue here that the fact that one of the logics of the plus size fashion field being stigma, it affects derogatorily consumers’ identity projects in a way that prevents them from engaging in within the field cultural capital practices. In the second paper, I conducted a genealogical introspection in which I researched identity issues. As a (selfproclaimed) plus-sized woman I figured it would be relevant to look inside myself in order to explore how my identity entangles with the semiotic-material network that surrounds me in terms of both fashion, food and other elements. My data came both from concurrent and retrospective introspection techniques. In theoretical terms, I used the idea of assemblages and I focused my analysis both on the material aspects of my network of consumption and on the stability of this network. The consequences of my assemblage are linked to a total quality management of my identity, both online and offline, reflected on consumption practices that connect to the idea of a bulimic consumption logic on which food consumption and body management are interlinked. On my third paper, I examine the concept of identity from the perspective of plus size women´s consumption of fashion. Fourteen phenomenological interviews were conducted and analyzed from a hermeneutical perspective. Three thematic categories emerged from the data analysis: the construction of identity through fashion, elements of plus size identity and creative strategies to deal with the lack of products for plus size women in retail. Among the main results, the way the term plus size acts as stigma, influencing consumer´s identity projects, the role of retail in the stigmatization process and the shopping epic saga, which involves a ‘black market’ with the participation of sellers. Finally, I conclude discussing the role of identity in the instability of the plus size fashion field. / O presente trabalho explora as causas pelas quais o campo da moda plus size carece de legitimidade com as consumidoras plus size. Eu explorei o assunto em três artigos. No primeiro, eu estudo o processo de legitimação de um novo mercado emergente, o mercado da moda plus size brasileira e os desafios para sua a institucionalização. Eu conduzi dezessete entrevistas com consumidoras plus size, uma netnografia em quatro blogs de moda plus size brasileiros e analisei de maneira semiótica um site que vende roupas de moda plus size. Meus resultados indicam que, apesar de ter atores legítimos que promovem essas marcas de moda plus size, o campo da moda plus size ainda é percebido como uma versão vergonhosa do campo da moda. Defendo aqui que o fato de uma das lógicas de campo da moda plus size ser estigma, acaba afetando os projetos identitários das consumidoras de maneira depreciativa, de forma elas não se envolvem em práticas de capital cultural que ocorrem dentro do campo da moda plus size. No segundo artigo, eu conduzi uma introspecção genealógica em que eu pesquisei questões de identidade. Como uma mulher (que se assume ) plus size, eu imaginei que seria relevante para olhar para dentro de mim mesma, a fim de explorar a forma como a minha identidade liga-se com a rede semiótica-material que me rodeia em termos de moda, alimentos e outros elementos. Meus dados vieram tanto de técnicas de introspecção simultâneas, quanto retrospectivas. Em termos teóricos, eu usei a ideia de ―assemblages‖ e eu foquei minha análise tanto nos aspectos materiais da minha rede de consumo, quanto na estabilidade da rede. As consequências da minha assemblage estão ligadas a uma gestão de qualidade total da minha identidade, tanto online como off-line, refletidas em práticas de consumo que se conectam à ideia de uma lógica de consumo bulímica em que o consumo de alimentos e gestão corpo estão interligadas. Por fim, no meu terceiro artigo, eu explorei o conceito de identidade a partir do consumo da moda feminina plus size. Foram feitas catorze entrevistas fenomenológicas, cujos dados foram analisados a partir de uma perspectiva hermenêutica. Três categorias temáticas emergiram da análise de dados: a construção da identidade por meio da moda, elementos de identidade plus size e estratégias criativas para lidar com a falta de produtos para mulheres plus size no varejo. Entre os principais resultados, destacam-se a forma como o termo plus size atua como estigma, influenciando projetos de identidade das consumidoras, o papel do varejo no processo de estigmatização e a saga épica de compras, que envolve um 'mercado negro', com a participação de vendedores. Eu concluo discutindo o papel da identidade na instabilidade do campo da moda plus size.

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Syftet med denna studie är att undersöka hur två svenska modeföretag, Modefabriken och Klädverket, som båda påstår sig vara kroppspositiva visar detta i praktiken. Studien är genomförd inom ämnet textilt management. Studien är ur ett företagsperspektiv, men har även genererat inblickar från ett konsumentperspektiv. Data har samlats in genom primär- och sekundärdata. Studiens sekundära data har genererat ett teoretiskt ramverk som återfinns inom studier av ett västerländskt smalhetsideal och massmedias påverkan, modeindustrin och storlekar, vardagliga modeller och retuscherade modeller, kroppsideal och kroppspositivism. Studiens primära data har samlats in genom semistrukturerade intervjuer, strukturerade observationer i butik samt analys av fyra produktkategorier online. Studiens insamlade data har resulterat i en modifierad kommunikationsmodell för att undersöka hur företagen använder sig av provdockor i butik och modeller online för att visa sitt storleksspann. Judith Butlers Queerteori appliceras för att se om företagen har brutit sig loss från smalhetsidealet. Studiens resultat visar att både Modefabriken och Klädverket använder sig av provdockor i två storlekar, en normativ och en över norm. Båda dessa visar plagg med ett storleksspann från den minsta till den största storleken som företagen har. Slutsatsen av studien är att Klädverket visar sin kroppspositiva inställning i större utsträckning än Modefabriken, detta främst genom att använda sig av fler större modeller online, men även större provdockor i butik. Förslag till vidare forskning är att göra en liknande studie men ur ett konsumentperspektiv. Detta för att komplettera studiens resultat med hur konsumenter uppfattar användandet av större provdockor och modeller. / The purpose of this study is to investigate how two Swedish fashion companies, Modefabriken and Klädverket, who claims to be body positive shows that in practice. The study is conducted within the subject Textile Management. The study is from a corporate perspective but has also generated some insights from a customer perspective. The data has been collected through primary and secondary data. The studies secondary data has generated a theoretical framework which includes a western society ideal of being skinny and the impact of media, the fashion industry and sizes, everyday models and edited models, body ideals and body activism. The primary data of the study has been collected through semi structured interviews, structured observations in store as well as analysis of four different product categories online. The collected data of the study has resulted in a modified communications model to investigate how companies uses mannequins in store and models online to show their range of sizes. Judith Butlers Queer theory is applied to see if companies have broken away from the skinny ideal. The result of the study shows that both Modefabriken and Klädverket use mannequins in two sizes. In their stores and online, they use one normative size and one size above the norm. Both shows garments with a size range from the smallest to the biggest size that the companies offer. The conclusion of the study is that Klädverket shows their body positive approach in greater extent than Modefabriken, mainly by using more plus sized models online but also bigger mannequins in store.