Clothes are not only for body protection and covering, but they also have social and emotional aspects attached to them. For them to be appealing, they need to have a proper fit while remaining fashionable and aesthetically pleasing to the eye (Anderson, Brannon, Ulrich, Presley&Woronka, Grasso&Gray,2000; Yoo, 2003). Swaziland has a large population of plus-size women who are working in different departments and need to dress for the job on a daily basis. Their apparel sizing and fit preferences and problems are not known. This research investigates apparel sizing and fit preferences and problems of the plus-size Swazi working women. It concentrates specifically on the functional, aesthetic and economic fit preferences, as well as on determining size labelling preferences, knowledge and clothing styles preferences and problems. This was a descriptive study using a quantitative approach. Purposive sampling was used. This design was chosen as it focused on studying plus-size working women who were experiencing fit problems with the apparel they bought from local apparel retail shops. A survey using a questionnaire to collect data was done in exploring apparel sizing and fit problems and preferences of plus-size working women of Swaziland. A sample of plus-size Swazi working female teachers (n = 249) between the ages of 25 and 60 years who had indicated that they wore clothes of size 16 to 28+ or size 40 to 52+ participated in the study. A self-administered questionnaire was used to answer set objectives. The results of the study indicated that the plus-size Swazi working women preferred clothes that were functionally comfortable, fitted well and were made in comfortable fabric. They also indicated that they preferred clothes that were well sized, had a fit that was functional, sensually and emotionally pleasing in respect of style, the fabric used and comfort. The study also reflected that plus-size Swazi working women experienced sizing and fit problems in most of the apparel they bought from local retail outlets. A high number of the plus-size women consumers reported experiencing difficulty in finding clothes that were aesthetically pleasing. They could not find clothes that were fashionable in their size nor clothes that could satisfy their emotional and symbolic egos. A high number of respondents also indicated that they experienced a lot of fit problems on several areas of their bodies. The waist, hips, buttocks, abdomen and upper arms seemed to be the most problematic body areas respondents reported to be having fit problems. The lengths were also a challenge as most had problems with sleeve and pants length. Findings in this study also reflected that sizing in clothes was still a major problem for most of the plus-size consumers. Many of the respondents had problems understanding information on the size tags. The sizing systems were most probably confusing for the consumer as some came in varying numbers and letters. This study may contribute to a better understanding of sizing and fit preferences and problems experienced by the plussize Swazi working women with regard to work apparel. Consumers come in different shapes and sizes. The clothing producer has a task of ensuring that clothes are made to fit most of the prevailing figure types, rather than the common ideal figure. / Dissertation (MConsumer Science)--University of Pretoria, 2010. / Consumer Science / unrestricted

Denna studie görs i samarbete med ett svenskt modeföretag som har upplevt problem med passformen av deras sport-bh:ar i storlekarna L-XL. Problemet som uppstår är att de större storlekarna inte ger tillräckligt med täckning över bysten. Graderingen på sport-bh:arna behövs därför studeras och en fungerande gradering tas fram för att uppnå önskad passform på sport-bh:arna över bysten. Två graderingsmetoder granskas och appliceras på ett mönster från företaget. Prototyper i storlek L och XL sys upp enligt dessa metoder för avprovning och de två resultaten jämförs sedan. Metoden som uppnådde bäst passform utvecklas därefter vidare och en plaggmåttlista med de olika skillnadsmåtten tas därefter fram. Resultatet visade att Johnsons metod uppnådde en bättre passform men att en justering vid axelbanden behövdes göras innan måttlistan kunde sammanställas. / This study was done in collaboration with a Swedish fashion company that has experienced problems with the fit of their sports bra in the sizes L-XL. The problem that arises is that the larger sizes do not provide enough coverage over the bust. The grading on the sports bra is therefore needed to be studied and a functional grading system needs to be produced to achieve the desired fit on the sports bra over the bust. Two grading methods are reviewed and applied to a pattern from the company. Prototypes in size L and XL are sewn according to these methods for fitting and the two results are then compared. The method that achieved the best fit is then developed further and a garment measurement list with the difference measurements is then manufactured. The result showed that Johnson's method achieved a better fit but that an adjustment to the shoulder straps was needed before the measurement list could be compiled.

Det har länge varit känt att de kropps- och skönhetsideal som råder i samhället långt ifrån inkluderar alla typer av kroppar. Modebranschen har framförallt utmärkt sig på den här punkten, och det är väl känt att det allt som oftast är smala modeller som representeras i branschen. Vår valda problemformulering grundar sig i att normbrytande kroppar är underrepresenterande i samhället och i modebranschen. Vårt syfte med den här uppsatsen var att undersöka hur Veckorevyn förhåller sig till sitt manifest de kallar Size Hero. Det här manifestet grundar sig i en protest mot de rådande kropps- och skönhetsideal som råder i samhället. I samband med detta ska vi även analysera hur många normativa kontra normbrytande kroppar som totalt finns representerande i tidningen, och hur de framställs. Vi ämnar även att problematisera begreppet ”plus size”, dess användning och betydelse. Den valda metoden för vår analys grundar sig i flermetodsforskning, och valet av den här metoden gjordes då vi ville ha svar på hur underrepresenterade de är men även hur de framställs när dem väl gör det. Vårt material består av alla Veckorevyns utgivna tidningar under ett år. Vi har analyserat dessa med hjälp av en semiotisk bildanalys och genom en kvantitativ metod. Tillsammans med den semiotiska bildanalysen så har vi använt oss av Hansen och Machins bärare av denotationer och konnotationer för att analysera bilderna. Vårt resultat visade att Veckorevyn uppfyller sitt manifest men i det stora hela är de modeller med normbrytande kroppar fortfarande väldigt underrepresenterade. / It has been known for a long period of time that the body and beauty ideals in society do not include all types of bodies. The fashion industry is known to be exceptional good at excluding bigger bodytypes, and it is well known that it is slim models that is representing majority of it. Our chosen problem for this essay is based on the fact that norm-breaking bodies are underrepresented in society and in the fashion industry. Our purpose with this essay was to investigate how the fashion magazine Veckorevyn relates to their manifest, called Size Hero. This manifest is based on a protest against the prevailing body and beauty ideals that exists in society. We will also analyse how many normative vs. norm-breaking bodies there are as a total representation in the magazine, and how they are presented. We also intend to problematize the concept of the word "plus size", its use and meaning. The chosen method for our analysis is based on a multimethod research and the choice of this method was made because we wanted to have an answer to how underrepresented the norm-breaking bodies are and how they are being portrayed when so. Our material consists of all of Veckorevyn's published magazines for one year. We have analyzed them with the help of a semiotic image analysis and through a quantitative method. Together with the semiotic image analysis, we have used Hansen and Machin's bearers of denotations and connotations in order to analyze the images. Our result showed that Veckorevyn is fulfilling their manifest but on the whole the norm- breaking bodies were still very underrepresented.

El presente trabajo de investigación académica está basado en el análisis de las acciones de la promoción digital en relación con el proceso de compra de ropa Plus Size en mujeres de 18 a 34 años de NSE B de Lima Metropolitana. En primer lugar, se dan a conocer cuales son las estrategias SEO y SEM, así mismo detalla cuales son las acciones comprendidas dentro de estas estrategias. Además, se investiga sobre la reacción del target a estas acciones y estímulos. En segundo lugar, se tomó muy en cuenta el análisis del proceso de compra de las mujeres del segmento, descubriéndose que el target prefiere realizar compras por internet antes que las tiendas físicas. Finalmente, se contrastaron ambas variables y se evaluó la influencia de las diferentes estrategias de marketing digital en las etapas del proceso de compra del segmento Plus Size. Adicionalmente, se presenta el contraste de los resultados con la hipótesis planteada y conclusiones de la investigación. / This academic research work is based on the analysis of the actions of digital promotion in relation to the process of buying Plus Size clothing in women from 18 to 34 years of age from NSE B of Metropolitan Lima. First of all, they are disclosed which are the SEO and SEM strategies, as well as detailing what are the actions included within these strategies. In addition, the target's reaction to these actions and stimuli is investigated. Secondly, I am very aware of the analysis of the purchasing process of women in the segment, discovering that the objective of making purchases online before physical stores. Finally, both variables were compared and the influence of the different digital marketing strategies in the stages of the Plus Size segment purchasing process was evaluated. In addition, the contrast of the results with the hypotheses and the conclusions of the investigation is presented. / Trabajo de investigación

Denna studie undersöker hur olika graderingssätt jämförs mot företagets graderade grundliv. Undersökningen görs på uppdrag från ett svenskt modeföretag. Tidigare hade företaget en avdelning för sig med de största storlekarna, vilket togs bort för att istället slå ihop hela graderingsintervallen av storlekar till ett. Företaget har jobbat med att hitta de rätta intervallerna kring de största storlekarna och tyckte därför det vore intressant att jämföra sin gradering mot andra graderingssätt med deras grundliv som utgångspunkt. Metoder som har använts i denna studie har varit gradering, jämförelse av mönster och 3D simulering i Lectras programvaror Modaris, 3D prototyping och KaledoStyle. Uppsydda prover har även provats av på docka, person och avatar i storlek 50 samt analyserats och utvärderats efter ett avprovningsprotokoll. Studiens resultat visar att graderingen från företagets grund är jämförbar med det andra graderingssättet i övervägande koordinater. Det som skiljer dem markant åt är axelns längdgradering i de största storlekarna. Där har företaget valt att stanna av sin gradering, vilket de andra graderingssätten inte gör. De andra graderingssätten följer den data som finns tillgänglig kring kroppsmått och axelns ökning i de olika storlekarna. / This study examine how a grading system are compared to the company’s graded base pattern. The study is an assignment on a Swedish fashion company. The company used to have a section for plus-sizes in their clothing line, but decided to remove it. Instead, they merge the whole grading system into one. They have tried to find the right intervals of grading in the biggest sizes, which makes it interesting to compare their grading to other grading systems. The methods used in this study are grading, comparison of patterns and 3D prototyping in Lectra Softweares Modaris, 3D prototyping and KaledoStyle. Sewn samples have been fitted in size 50 and analyzed by a test protocol. The result of the study shows that the grading system from the company is comparable with the other grading system. The most distinct part that separates the grading systems is the shoulder length in the bigger sizes. The company has chosen to stop their grading, which the other grading system does not. The other grading system follows dada where body measurements are established.

In recent years, the salience of obesity and body image in society has given rise to a "fat activist" movement dedicated to defending non-normative body types. This activism has extended to the online environment, in which groups who are ostracized from the traditional realm have taken to blogging as a form of resistance and expression. The term "fat" has been reclaimed by the movement as a term of emancipation and defiance. The so-called "fatshion" blogs have a growing audience, and there is a burgeoning scholarly literature on this phenomenon. The aim of this research was to investigate college-aged females who identify as "fat," who may or may not have been exposed to the online fatshion (fat fashion) market or blogs. Are these blogs being used as resources for these women? Do they even know these websites exist? Thus, the aim of this study was to discover what the current fashion sector is like for those who may not participate as heavily within these communities. The main objective of this study was to find how plus-size women's fashion choices are shaped by the dominant discourses of the body and how this, in turn, influences their shopping experiences. By conducting semi-structured interviews along with participants filling out a small questionnaire, an in-depth look at the personal thoughts and feelings of fat women outside of this movement was explored. Fatshion was studied through four theoretical lenses: as a counter-discourse, as a place for identity construction, as a mode of gender performativity, and how fatshion is informed by intersectionality of race, class, and gender. Based on the interview data, the study found that the messages found on fatshion blogs have the potential to spark opposition in ways that mobilize a more positive self-image as well as nonconformist self-presentations through a heightened awareness of the possibilities for opposing dominant ideologies.

Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010 / A research was conducted in order to assist the Young Fuller Figured Women entering and already working in the corporate environment with clothing for the work environment. This research was conducted so that these women may notice a smaller number of incorrect fitting clothes when they shop for formal wear and also to give them guidance on suitable, elegant and stylish clothes for their body size and shape. Two theories namely: 'dress for success' by John Molloy and 'clothing is a code' by Fred Davis were the guidelines jn discovering, understanding and solving the dress problem for the young full figured women. In order to deal with the problem I had to interview some of these women to understand their challenges and frustration regarding dressing suitably for the corporate environment. The results of the interviews showed that the origin of the problem, are the basic block pattems. This was the solution for most of the garment fitting problems that the young fuller figured women experienced daily. A range was designed to serve as an example of how these women can dress for the corporate environment using various suitable fabrics and colours. This range appears formal and yet has a feminine twist to it, making it suitable for the woman who wants to be taken seriously and yet maintain her femininity and elegance. I hope that this research will be a useful tool for the retailers who currently cater for the fuller fIgured women to assist them with the current garment fitting problems and for the designers who plan to enter the fuller figured market: to enter it cautiously and taking the requirements of their potential customers into consideration If the information in this research is applied clothes that the fuller figured women buy will fit correctly the first time and they will not have to pay extra to alter new garments.

I den här uppsatsen tittar jag närmre på hur Dressmann valt att representera plus sizemän och redogör för hur den manliga kroppen träder fram utifrån normer kring denmanliga kroppen och sätter det i kontrast mot mitt material. Dressmann är ettklädföretag som är duktiga på att inkludera plus size män i sina reklamer. Genom envisuell analys som fördjupas med diskursanalys kommer jag fram till att den manligakroppen både representeras utifrån rådande normer, men att Dressmann också visar ennyanserad och mer realistisk bild av den manliga kroppen som bryter mot hurDressmann tidigare representerat kroppen. Avslutningsvis diskuterar jag hurDressmann i framtiden kan visa vägen för hur plus size kroppen visas och att vi måstese till hur alla kroppar ser olika ut och att ingen är den andra lik, och skapa rättvisarepresentationer kring kroppen. / In this essay I look more closely at how Dressmann chose to represent plus size menand explain how the male body emerges from norms around the male body, to laterput that in contrasts with my material. Dressmann is a clothing company that is goodat including plus size men in their advertisements. Through a visual analysis that Ideepened with a discourse analysis I come to the conclusion that the male body isrepresented on the basis of prevailing norms, but that Dressmann also shows anuanced and more realistic picture of the male body that violates how Dressmannpreviously represented the body. In conclusion, I discuss how Dressmann in the futurecan show the way for how the plus size body is shown and that we need to look at howbodies actually look, that they all look different from one to another, and create fairrepresentations around the body.

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The introduction of plus-size models in high fashion has been a highly discussed topic in recent years. Plus-size female models are slowly breaking their way through the boundaries of fashion’s standard for thinness and this can be observed through their visibility within major runway shows. However, this change does not seem as prevalent within high fashion menswear shows since plus-size men are barely being included. Nevertheless, plus-size men exist and fashion can no longer choose to ignore them as they deserve to be acknowledged and represented. Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is to include the plus-size male body within the scope of fashion. A multimethodological approach, combining critical visual analysis, semi-structured interviews and critical theory by Susan Bordo, Michel Foucault and Pierre Bourdieu are used as a way to examine to what extent plus-size men are being included in high fashion, and how this influences the field of fashion. The outcome of the visual analysis reveals that there is still a large lack of inclusion of plus-size men. Furthermore, the field analysis reveals that there is an imbalance within the current field of fashion, and this is one of the main reasons why there is a lack of inclusion of plus-size men within (high) fashion.