Master's thesis: Victorian era fashion theoretical and practical source of inspiration. Theoretical part of thesis explores fashion in 19 th century in UK in the context of contemporary facts. Thesis describes a development in particular parts of women's clothing which reflects former spirit and culture. In the next chapter is discussed how Victorian England has inspired nowadays fashion and its impact on modern subcultures. There are additionally added images for deeper understanding of this complex phenomena. Practical part of the thesis consists of development of ball jointed doll which was inspired by Victorian fashion. In addition, it includes sketches and workflow with visualization.

Gevangenisbendes in Suid-Afrika het 'n lang geskiedenis. die eerste was gestig onder Swart gevangenes in die Transvaal onmiddellik na die Anglo-Boere oorlog. Die Ninevite bende was ingestel deur Nongoloza Mathebula en het in die Witwatersrand geopereer. "Nongoloza" se bende het bestaan uit agt lede waarvan die 28 bende later ontwikkel het. Die 28 bende is ten gunste van wyfies-verhouding (homoseksuele) onder sy bende lede. "Ngelejani" se bende, waaruit die 26 bende ontwikkel het, was nie ten gunste van die wyfies-verhouding nie. Die ander bende wat in die gevangenis ontstaan het, is die Big 5 bende en die Airforce bende. / Prison gangs in South Africa have a long history. the first were established among Black prisoners in the Transvaal soon after the Anglo-Boer war. The Ninevite gang was introduced by Nongoloza Mathebula and operated in the Witwatersrand. "Nongoloza's" gang consisted of eight members, from which the 28 gang later developed. The 28 gang approved the boy-wives relationship (homo-sexual) among its gang members. "Ngelejani's" gang from which the 26 gang developed, disapproved the boy-wives relationship. Other gangs established in prison, are the Big 5 gang and the Airforce gang. / Sociology / M.A. (Penology)

Submitted by Renata Lopes (renatasil82@gmail.com) on 2017-03-09T14:12:19Z No. of bitstreams: 1 giselecristinaluiz.pdf: 6708975 bytes, checksum: c02ae94c853d8b75123e23a5512b0e5c (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2017-03-10T13:17:40Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 giselecristinaluiz.pdf: 6708975 bytes, checksum: c02ae94c853d8b75123e23a5512b0e5c (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-03-10T13:17:40Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 giselecristinaluiz.pdf: 6708975 bytes, checksum: c02ae94c853d8b75123e23a5512b0e5c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-09-16 / Esta dissertação busca uma reflexão sobre as preferências estilísticas juvenis de um grupo específico de jovens, o público de rock n’ roll. Aqui iremos dar destaque ao grupo público de heavy metal em Juiz de Fora/MG que viveu sua juventude nas décadas de 1980 e 1990. Inicialmente busca-se analisar o surgimento de uma cultura juvenil e o desenvolvimento de subculturas dando destaque para o surgimento do rock n’ roll através de uma pesquisa bibliográfica. Foi realizada uma análise dos movimentos de contracultura relacionados ao estilo musical e a sua segmentação a partir da década de 1970 que irá dar origem ao estilo musical heavy metal. Posteriormente foi realizado um panorama geral do desenvolvimento do estilo, procurando analisar as questões que permeiam o grupo de fãs do mesmo, denominados headbangers, buscando averiguar como se deu o desenvolvimento do estilo musical no Brasil e como foi o desenvolvimento da cena. Procuramos ainda situar às relações existentes entre a moda, o comportamento e a música de estilo heavy metal, e a partir disso, pesquisar a interlocução presente entre a música e o estilo de vida desses jovens. Por fim, foram realizadas entrevistas com pessoas público de heavy metal que desde as décadas de 1980 e 1990 a fim de analisar como se deu o desenvolvimento do mesmo em Juiz de Fora/MG, pesquisando como tiveram acesso ao estilo, quais foram as bandas precursoras, onde e como eram os lugares frequentados pelos headbangers, como ocorria a divulgação do heavy metal, como os headbangers se relacionavam com o estilo musical na cidade em termos de comportamento, moda e estilo de vida e sobre o legado da cena metal em Juiz de Fora/MG. / This dissertation seeks a reflection on youth stylistic preferences of a specific group of young people, the rock public n 'roll. Here we will highlight the public group of heavy metal in Juiz de Fora/MG who lived his youth in the 1980s and 1990s initially seeks to analyze the emergence of youth culture and the development of subcultures highlighting for the emergence of rock n 'roll through a literature search. an analysis of the counterculture movements related to musical style and its segmentation from 1970 that will give rise to heavy metal musical style was held. It was later performed an overview of the development of style, trying to analyze the issues that permeate the group of fans even called headbangers, seeking to find out how was the development of the musical style in Brazil, as was the development of the scene. We also seek to situate the relationship between fashion, behavior and heavy metal style of music, and from that, search the dialogue between this music and the lifestyle of young people. Finally, interviews were conducted with public people of heavy metal from the 1980s and 1990s in order to analyze how was its development in Juiz de Fora/MG, researching how to have access to the style, which were the forerunners bands where and how were the places frequented by headbangers, as was the release of heavy metal, such as headbangers were related to the musical style in the city in terms of behavior, fashion and lifestyle and the legacy of the metal scene in Judge Fora/MG.

Les commerçants de marché sont des inconnus de la sociologie. Le marché urbain a pourtant une existence multi-séculaire, et cette longue histoire a structuré les usages du groupe des commerçants de marché. Au delà de cette inscription longue dans l'histoire, le marché urbain a surtout su changer de fonction principale sans abandonner celle qui l'a fait naître. Ainsi cette thèse a-t-elle un double objectif. En premier lieu elle vise à dresser un tableau du marché et de ses acteurs, afin de comprendre comment un groupe professionnel confronté à l'instabilité de son installation et de ses contours peut malgré tout constituer un territoire et le défendre. En second lieu elle se penche sur les raisons qui font que l'institution du marché urbain se maintient dans un économie aux caractéristiques antinomiques des siennes. A cet égard la production de confiance est déterminante. Il apparaît que si le marché urbain se maintient c'est à travers la confiance qu'il génère, et dont il synthétise de façon exemplaire les différentes dimensions. / Urban market sellers have been quite unknown by sociology. However, a long history has structured through centuries their uses and their culture. Beyond this legacy, urban markets managed to change their main function, while keeping their original one.This research is seeking a double aim. First of all it intends to depict an accurate description of urban market and its sellers. Then we can find out how a group that has to deal with global unstability manages to build and rule a territory. Second, the point is to understand why such a micro-local kind of merchant deals succeeds in still standing in a world that is more and more globalizing. Trust seems to be the key to catch it. Urban markets do aggregate the various ways of trust, hence they are still standing and produce social ties.

Organisationskultur är något som är komplext och svårdefinierat men som likväl har en betydelsefull roll. I nuvarande situation befinner sig sjukvården i en dragkamp mellan olika kulturer då det är en hierarkisk struktur, som idag kräver ett externt, ekonomiskt tänkt och som arbetar för att ge patienter ett värdigt möte. Samtidigt finns det stress för personalen i form av personalbrist medan cheferna har tryck från politiker och strama budgetar. Syftet med studien är att empiriskt undersöka om uppfattningen av en kultur inom slutenvården i Värmlands läns landsting, kan skilja sig beroende på hierarkisk position. I studiens syfte ingår också att identifiera och analysera de kommunikativa faktorer som bidrar till att kulturen skulle kunna uppfattas olika. Studiens huvudsakliga frågeställning är “I vilken utsträckning påverkar en anställds hierarkiska position dennes uppfattning om organisationskulturen?” följt av ”Vilken relation har den interna kommunikationen till den/de rådande uppfattningarna?”. Studiens analytiska ramverk har baserats på tidigare forskning och inom branschen väletablerade teorier för att definiera en viss typ av kultur inom en organisation, bland annat används ramverket för konkurrerande värderingar (Competing Values Framework) med vilken studien definierar de olika kulturerna inom organisationen genom dimensioner och kluster. För att besvara studiens frågeställningar har en enkätundersökning tillämpats. En totalundersökning gjordes på populationen som dock fick en bristande svarsfrekvens. Resultaten indikerade att en tydlig hierarkisk kultur uppfattas inom organisationen. Däremot fanns stora önskemål om att styra den mot en mer familjär kultur men att fortfarande behålla de hierarkiska strukturerna. Cheferna ansåg att deras ledarskap karaktäriseras av hjälpsamhet och uppmuntran till deltagande, vilket dock inte var något som uppfattades av någon annan inom organisationen. Detta beror med stor sannolikhet på den enkelriktade kommunikationen som går igenom en hierarkisk kommunikationsmodell. / Organizational culture is somewhat hard to define and a complex matter that nevertheless has an important role. The current healthcare is challenged by a tug of war between different cultures for its hierarchical structure, which today needs an external and economic turn of mind and still work for a worthy meeting with the patient. Simultaneously it exists a stressful situation for the health professionals in terms of staff shortage while the management has a constraint from politicians and tight budgets. The purpose of this study is to empirically investigate whether the perception of an organizational culture within Värmlands Council may differ depending on individual’s hierarchical positions. The purpose also includes identifying and analysing the communicative factors that contribute to the different perceptions. The main question of the study is “To what extent does an employee’s hierarchical position affect the perception of an organizational culture?” followed by “What is the relationship between the internal communication and the current perceptions?” The analytical framework of the study is based on previous research and within the industry well-established theories, including the Competing Values Framework, which the study uses to define the different cultures within the organization through its dimensions and clusters. To answer the study’s questions a survey has been applied that was sent to the whole population, which however, received a lack of response rate. The results indicate that a distinct hierarchical culture is perceived within the organization, alongside desires to direct it towards a more family-oriented culture while maintaining the hierarchical structures. The managers considered their leadership to be characterized by helpfulness and encouragement for participation, however it was not perceived in such way by anyone else within the organization. This is most likely due to the one-way communication that goes through a hierarchical communication model within the organization.

The thesis tries to process a topic of bodybuilding phenomenon in the wider context of the ideal body formation in modern age. Bodybuilding is understood as a specific socio-cultural phenomenon closely tied to a modern society and its historical development. Beyond the bodybuilding the work also deals with an analysis of the contemporary social body theory with focus on the domestic discourse and subsequently also with an analysis of discursive formation modern physicality from the Enlightenment till the 20th century. The main focus is put on the understanding of changes characteristic for the modern society in context of the modernisation project continuity. The objective is to describe a history of bodybuilding within the outlined process of modernization, as well as to compare various alternative conception of the ideal of physicality in the "Fordism Modernity", where a special attention is focused on the analysis of bio political discourse in Communist dictatorship. The remaining part processes a historical development of the bodybuilding movement in Czechoslovakia, where the main emphasis is put on placing the Czechoslovakia bodybuilding into the postulated concept, including individual historical events. Key words: Social history; Bodybuilding; Social Theory; History of the Body; Subculture;...

This thesis examines the symbiotic relationship between the meanings of tattoos and social norms through a comparative analysis of three distinct periods in twentieth-century American history. I use extensive archival material and an interdisciplinary approach to explain how the meanings of body ink shifted and to identify factors that influenced the public’s perceptions of tattoos as deviant or acceptable. In the 1920s and 1930s, tattooing practices among favored social groups, specifically military personnel, middle- and upper-class white men and women, and circus performers, generally received more positive reactions than those among lower-class and criminal subcultures. In the 1950s and 1960s, body ink became practiced primarily by marginalized individuals, such as criminals, bikers, and sex workers, and the general public’s understandings of tattoos as indicators of deviance and dangerous immorality strengthened. The new clientele and practitioners of the 1970s and 1980s mainly came from a high socio-economic status and reframed their tattooing practices as artistic expressions of individuality. I argue that, although body ink aesthetic by and large supported American values of patriotism, heteronormativity, and racial advantage, tattooing practices among ‘respectable’ groups were more accepted than those by ‘deviant’ subcultures. My research shows that the fluctuations between public rejection and appreciation of tattoos in these periods rested principally on the appearance and function of the inked design and on the position of the tattooed body in the social hierarchy. This thesis demonstrates that tattooing practices created and perpetuated but also destabilized and influenced gender-, race-, and class-based American ideals, and my research exposes the nuanced connections of body ink with deviance and normativity, the malleability of social conventions, and a complex web of power relations constantly in flux. / Graduate / 2018-08-23

This mixed-method case study examined effects of high school musicians' participation in the jam session, a student-directed, extracurricular music activity. The single case study site was a rural British Columbia high school exceptional for its support of jamming. Forty-four subjects, including 21 who fully met stated criteria for jammers, and 13 non-jamming subjects, were studied over a period of four months. The general research question was: Does participation in a band room jam session benefit students cognitively and motivationally? Specific research questions were: Do students who informally jam on various forms of music enhance their music skills in the perception and meaningful manipulation of music elements, and if so, how? In what ways does Csikszentmihalyi's flow theory explain the continued participation of students in the jam session? Three quantitative instruments were administered to 13 jammers capable of playing a Bb Concert scale on a melody instrument as well as to a comparable group of 13 non-jammers. These instruments included Gordon's Advanced Measures of Music Audiation (AMMA), Froseth's Test of Melodic Ear-to-Hand Coordination (TMEHC), and a researcher-developed test of ear-to-hand coordination (SOR). An ANOVA test showed no significant difference between jammer and non-jammer groups on AMMA scores (p<0.05). ANOVA showed a notable but not significant difference (p<0.056) between groups on the TMEHC, while a Repeated Measures Analysis of pre/post test TMEHC scores showed no effect of jamming over a period of 10 weeks. ANOVA showed a very clear difference between groups on the SOR (p<0.001). Qualitative data collected via journaling, interviews, observation, and participant-observer tasks indicated that jammers were perceiving and manipulating music elements in meaningful ways, and also supported Csikszentmihalyi's flow theory as an explanation for jam session participation. In particular, flow characteristics including transformation of time, loss of self-consciousness, and challenge/skill balance were both observed and reported. The role of the teacher, the presence of a music subculture, and the pseudo-curricular nature of jamming were noted as possible topics for further research. / Education, Faculty of / Curriculum and Pedagogy (EDCP), Department of / Graduate

This thesis analyzes the subculture within the United States Marine Corps. It attempts to bring the traditional literature of criminal subculture and the subculture of violence together with literature of occupational subculture to explain many of the behaviors exhibited by Marines.

Följande studie är en undersökning kring hur en del av dagens mest populära musikvideos inom den svenska hiphop-genren reproducerar normativa könsstereotyper. Under år 2019 dominerade svensk hiphop de svenska topplistorna och den både produceras och konsumeras i dagsläget av unga människor. Trots genrens popularitet har mycket kritik riktats mot den. Genren är ur vissa aspekter mansdominerad, heteronormativ och sexistisk. Det är dessutom ett känt faktum att könsnormativa stereotyper frekvent förekommer i musikvideos. Einár, Ant Wan och Z.E är ett urplock ur Sveriges mest populära rappare med miljontals streams och visningar på sina videos. De har därmed en stor räckvidd och således ett stort inflytande. Syftet för studien är därför att undersöka på vilka sätt dessa artisters musikvideos reproducerar könsstereotyper. Vi undersöker också dessa representationer i samband med hur samhället ser på genus och jämställdhet idag. Med hjälp av semiotiken som metod och genus som teoretiskt perspektiv analyserades musikvideorna tillhörande de tre populäraste svenska hiphop-låtarna år 2019. Efter analysen kunde vi konstatera att de normativa könsstereotyperna byggs i videorna främst genom att ge könen motsatta karakteristiska drag. Detta gäller hur de olika könen klär sig, beter sig, filmas samt hur mycket de inkluderas. En missvisande och enformig bild av respektive kön kom dessutom till uttryck, vilket skapar en stark kontrast med nuvarande debatter om behovet av att dekonstruera könsstereotyper. / The following study examines how today's most popular music videos in the Swedish hip-hop genre reproduce normative gender stereotypes. In 2019, Swedish hip-hop dominated the country’s music charts and today it is both produced and consumed by young people. Despite the genre's popularity, much criticism has been addressed towards it. The genre is in some aspects male-dominated, heteronormative and sexist. It is also a known fact that gender normative stereotypes frequently appear in music videos. Einár, Ant Wan and Z.E are a selection of Sweden's most popular rappers with millions of streams and views on their videos. Therefore, they have a very large reach and influence. The purpose of the study is therefore to analyze how these artists' music videos reproduce gender stereotypes. We also examine these representations in connection with how society views gender and gender equality today. By using semiotics as a method, the music videos that belonged to the three most popular Swedish hip-hop songs in 2019 were analyzed. After the analysis, we were able to state that the normative gender stereotypes are built into the videos mainly by giving the sexes opposite characteristic features. This applies to how the different sexes dress, behave, are filmed and how much they are included. A misleading and monotonous picture of the sexes was also expressed, which creates a strong contrast with ongoing debates of the need to deconstruct gender stereotypes.