Due to the high competitive nature of the fashion industry, it is essential for businesses to have precise and update information regarding its orders from every part of the supply chain. However, in nowadays conditions, when manufacturing process is outsourced worldwide, but lead times tend always to become shorter complexity of the supply chain has increased significantly that makes very complicated to ensure good visibility, communication, and coordination through the chain. The aim of this thesis is to find the way of managing complexity within Gefa International AB, located in Sweden, by improving its documentation and reorganizing the supply chain. By analyzing the company’s organization three main problems have been identified as: lack of the technical department, presence of intermediaries between the focal firm Gefa and manufacturers, and finally the current modification of the computer system Pisa that does not allow using developed set of documentation in the appropriate way. Two suggested solution should solve these problems and improve performance of the company. First, it is proposed to exclude intermediaries from the supply chain and to add one more work place in the company for the technical assistance. Second, it is necessary to adapt current computer system to the developed set of documentation. These solutions require additional expenses. However, preliminary calculations show that it could be covered by the economies on the middlemen’s interest. / Program: Applied Textile Management

Research show that customer patterns in the textile industry are changing and the degree of personalization of products is getting more important to meet personal needs and preferences. Mass customization is a strategy named to create higher customer value by customizing products through a close interaction during the design and production process, high production flexibility and efficient logistics. The lack of research on the implementation of mass customization strategies and an identified gap between customer expectations and perception (customer value) of these types of products, are the incentives to conduct this research. The thesis has the purpose of identifying the drivers of customer value of mass customized garments and assess the value chain of the company Brohall & Son from a perspective of mass customization as a strategy, and from the results draw conclusions of customer value aligned with the implementation mass customization strategies. In order to perform the research a quantitative approach, doing a customer value analysis through a self-completion questionnaire, was conducted. Attributes of price, quality, fit, service and delivery capacity were investigated to get an understanding of what drives value for the customers. In addition a qualitative method was used, doing interviews with the CEO of Brohall & Son to gain a deeper understanding of their operations and value chain. The results show that quality, fit, delivery capacity and service are the most important attributes of customer value. Price is the least important attribute and also the least correlated/dependent variable to the rest of the attributes, showing a high willingness to pay for the garments. The analysis of the value chain indicates some areas of improvements regarding logistics, design process and production process. Solutions are brought up to get the value chain to get more aligned with the strategies of mass customization.

The thesis is based on describing bussiness proces in a real small enterprise - Helena Škodáková, a seller of home textile - and bringing in suggestions how to improve its efficiency. The prosperity factor analysis consists of management, marketing, financial management and human resources management.

The purpose of this study is to explore the practical implementation of a commercially available sustainable alternative to conventional polyurethane (PU) textile coating for functional outerwear garments with protection from rain and snow. In addition, this study will identify the key consideration areas which should be taken into account during the managerial decision-making process of implementing the sustainable PU coating. This study employed an exploratory research design which used both quantitative and qualitative research methods to support in answering the research questions. The qualitative and quantitative research methods were applied respectively through semi-structured interviews and sample development trials. The research design began with a systematic literature review (SLR), then semi-structured interviews were conducted prior to sample development, then an experimental sample development was conducted, and lastly, additional semi-structured interviews were conducted subsequent to sample development. The findings revealed that the key consideration areas which should be taken into account during the managerial decision-making process of implementing a sustainable PU coating include chemical sustainability, legislative regulations, supplier capabilities, product quality and performance, purchase price, and lead time. Water-based PU coating was identified as a viable sustainable alternative to conventional PU coating for the application on textiles. Out of the three selected chemical suppliers, chemical supplier 1 was recommended by the researchers to the collaborating Swedish fashion brand as they were successful in producing a water-based PU coating which fulfilled all performance and key consideration area requirements. This research study contributes to furthering the development of water-based PU coating in the textile and apparel industry by developing a comprehensive implementation process from a practical managerial perspective.

Att integrera samtida teman med kulturarv är ett sätt för lyxvarumärken att hålla sig relevanta. Denna undersökning kommer att belysa skillnader mellan vad varumärkena säger och de olika strategiska tillvägagångssätt som varumärkena använder. De viktigaste resultaten tyder på att användningen av dessa teman i de visuella kampanjerna för dessa lyxvarumärken verkar ha specifika parametrar. Syftet med denna undersökning är att utforska hur lyxvarumärken med parisiskt kulturarv integrerar samtida kulturella teman i sina digitala kampanjer för att upprätthålla sitt arv och visa sin nuvarande relevans. Forskningen använder sig av kvalitativ innehållsanalys av digitala kampanjbilder. / Integrating contemporary themes with heritage is a way for luxury brands to stay relevant. However, this research will highlight discrepancies between what brands state as well as the different strategic approaches the brands employ. The main findings suggest that the use of these themes within the visual campaigns of these luxury brands, seem to have specific parameters. The purpose of this research is to explore how Parisian heritage luxury brands integrate contemporary cultural themes into their digital campaigns to maintain their heritage and demonstrate their current relevance. The research uses qualitative content analysis of digital campaign images.

Background: The textile industry new regulations require companies to integrate traceability in their value chain and circular initiatives. Recent studies present concern of the lack of traceability in products. Traceability is seen as an enabler for sustainability, since it displays company value chain activities. This research is part of the research project Systemdemonstratorn for a circular value chain. Purpose: The purpose of this research is to provide insights of the requirements in terms of traceability for companies’ adaptation to the digital product passport for the aim of creating an enhanced circular textile system. The research questions are divided in stage 1 to determine the current state and stage 2 to establish the requirement of future stage. Methodology: This research applies a qualitative approach with an explorative stance. The constructed conceptual framework is based on a merge of value stream mapping and The Butterfly Diagram with the addition of a proposed structure for the digital product passport from CIRPASS. The primary data was collected from semi-structured interviews and a conducted interview tool supported by the 5W1H information gathering technique. Findings: To analyse the findings this research conducted a thematic analysis, where themes were conducted individually in stage 1 and stage 2. The finding indicated a need of an integrated technological solution, a demand for a clear strategic communication process and a desire of clarity both within the companies and in the industry, it may still be a concern due to the novelty of the subject. Increased knowledge was further demonstrated as a necessity together with increased responsibility and lower ambiguity. Integrating traceability in circular loops and a unique product identifier was also distinguished as requirements. It was also stated that participants companies had progressed to different extent in the circular loops. Certifications was further distinguished as an established way amongst the participant to verify their traceability. Key findings are still an absence of completely understanding the concept of traceability. Contribution: This research contributes to demonstrating a success in merging value stream mapping and The Butterfly Diagram for mapping current state of information flow. It provides an insight for requirements needed for the future adoption of the digital product passport regarding traceability for an enhanced circular textile system and provides a pathway for textile management. The research further establish direction for enriching the knowledge by providing insights to future research which align with the subject.

This research aims to fill an important gap in focusing on why individuals are able to take part in and/or support activities that have effects on economic, environmental, and social dimensions that are not consistent with their sense of right and wrong. The research focuses on the relationship between supply chain management and moral disengagement, and how this relation affects social responsibility. After observing individuals avoiding responsibility for misconduct an explanatory concept, moral decoupling, was proposed. Moral decoupling considers moral responsibility a flow in the supply chain. Moral decoupling occurs when the flow is restricted. If moral decoupling occurs at an identifiable point it is called a moral decoupling point. The concept was developed by identifying and linking specific supply chain activities and structures with moral disengagement, a theory that explains the deactivation of self regulation. Moral decoupling was able to suggest how to reduce moral disengagement and improve social responsibility. To validate the suggestions a literature review on social responsibility was conducted and identified sixteen elements of social responsibility in supply chain management. The suggestions based on moral disengagement were compared with elements of social responsibility and a large overlap was found. Lastly, suggestions on how to reduce moral disengagement and map moral responsibility in a supply network are proposed, links between elements of social responsibility are presented, and moral coupling is added as a complementary term to moral decoupling. A model explaining the relationship between ethical guidelines, moral responsibility, moral decoupling, and social responsibility is proposed. In relation to current theoretical knowledge the thesis has contributed to the field of socially responsible supply chain management with an application of a new theoretical lens that gives one explanation as to why identifed elements of social responsibility are important. The understanding of social responsibility has reached an increased explanatory depth following the identification of moral disengagement as a generative mechanism, subject to conditions in supply chain management. The research has also applied moral disengagement in a context not identified in earlier research, and shows some of the complexity of applying it to a real-world global context. The elements of social responsibility and moral (de)coupling help practitioners identify what they should focus on to increase social responsibility and also offer an explanation for `why?'. The findings can be used to construct supply chains that are less prone to misconduct and to identify where in the chain it is important to be aware of immoral behavior. The value and originality of this research is centered on the application of a new theoretical lens for socially responsible supply chain management. It is the only identified research in the area which identifies mechanisms on a generative level that explains human behavior and conditions to which those mechanisms are subject. This is also in itself a novel application of moral disengagement in a new research context. / <p>Doctoral thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Textile Management at the University of Borås to be publicly defended on Wednesday, December 10, 2014, at 1:00 p.m.,in room M404, University of Bor as, Allégatan 1, Borås</p>

Due to a world-wide digitalisation, the fashion segment has experienced a shift from offline to online shopping. Consequently, more companies choose to interconnect digitally with consumers and suppliers. This highlights cyber risks and cybersecurity issues more than ever, which becomes specifically apparent amongst online companies. Through qualitative semi-structured interviews with three different Swedish online fashion companies, the purpose of investigating how cybersecurity currently is prioritised and managed was reached. In addition to this, two cybersecurity experts gave their view of the most important aspects in the field, which companies should consider. Results showed a fairly well-managed cybersecurity amongst Swedish online fashion companies, even though knowledge in the field is scarce. Through educating everyone at the company and implementing a group of people in charge of these questions, a more holistic view could be attained. By offering thoughts on how online fashion companies can enhance their current cybersecurity, this paper contributes to the literature of cyber risk management as well as provides meaningful knowledge to all types of online companies.

I slutet av 2019 bröt ett nytt coronavirus ut i Kina, COVID-19, för att sedan spridas över hela världen. I januari 2020 klassificerades COVID-19 som ett hot för mänskligheten av World Health Organisation, för att senare i mars samma år övergå till att klassificeras som en pandemi. Coronapandemin har pågått i över två och ett halvt år i skrivandes stund och påverkat världens länder på många plan. Denna studie genomförts och undersökt tidsspannet januari 2020 fram till mars 2022. På grund av pandemins enorma omfattning har praktiskt taget alla sektorer och varje del av ett lands ekonomi påverkats och pandemin har massivt stört internationell handel och de globala värdekejdorna. Många länder runt om i världen vidtog snabba åtgärder med bland annat totala nedstängningar av in- och ut resningar men Sverige valde att behålla sina gränser öppna. Istället valde Sveriges regering att införa olika rekommendationer rörande social distansering och maxantal i handeln, restauranger och event, rekommendationer som även många arbetsplatser anpassade sig efter. Denna studien tittar närmare på hur de svenska textilföretagen har förhållit sig till FoHMs rekommendationer och restriktioner samt hur de har utvecklats alternativt avslutats. När företaget utsätts för en kris går de från nuvarande tillstånd och använder sig av egenskaperna flexibilitet, beredskap, elasticitet och påhittighet för att kunna klara av krisen och utvecklas till nästa normala vilket innebär att de har byggt upp organisatorisk motståndskraft och blivit ett resilient hållbart företag. / This study aims to investigate how the Swedish textile industry has handled the corona pandemic and its restrictions. At the end of 2019, COVID-19, corona, was discovered in China and later spread all over the world. In January 2020, COVID-19 was classified as a threat to humanity by the World Health Organization (WHO), only to be classified as a pandemic later in March. The corona pandemic has been ongoing for over two and a half years and has affected countries all over the world on all possible levels (WHO 2021). To get a clearer picture of how Sweden and the local textile industry have been affected, this study has been conducted. The study took place between january 2020 ontowards march 2022. Due to the vast circumstances of the pandemic, practically every sector and layer of a country's finances has been affected and the pandemic has massively interrupted international trading and the global supply chain. Many of the countries around the world took rapid action, including closures of borders between countries, but Sweden chose to keep its borders open. Instead, the Swedish government chose to introduce various recommendations regarding social distancing and the maximum numbers of people at events, recommendations which even a lot of companies took into consideration to (Folkhälsomyndigheten (FoHM) 2021). This study aims to take a closer look at how the Swedish textile companies have adjusted to the FoHMs recommendations and restrictions concerning the coronapandemic, as well as how these companies have evolved or alternatively ended. When a company becomes exposed to a crisis they leave present state and utilize the property of flexibility, preparedness, elasticity and ingenuity to be capable to handle the crises and evolve towards the next normal which imply that the company successfully has been able to build up organizational resilience and become a resilient sustainable company.

Varje år slänger svenskar nära 6 kg textil direkt i sitt restavfall, varav 60 procent ofta är i skick att fortsätta användas. I ett resursintensivt samhälle med alltmer sinande resurser är åtgärder för att minska textilkonsumtionen avgörande. Produktionen står för den största andelen av textilers klimatpåverkan i och med stor användning av vatten, energi och kemikalier. Därför är återanvändning av textil är en viktig åtgärd för att minska textilers klimatpåverkan.  Välgörenhetsorganisationer med second hand-verksamhet har en viktig roll i återanvändningen i Sverige, samtidigt återanvänds bara 20 procent av det som samlas in hos välgörenhetsorganisationer och resterande textil går främst till export och en liten andel till förbränning i Sverige. Att hantera den textil som inte säljs i Sverige kostar dock pengar som hade kunnat gå till välgörenhetsorganisationernas egentliga syfte. För Röda Korset, som denna studie är gjord för, är detta syfte att lindra och hindra katastrofer och kriser. Röda Korsets hantering av textilerna som inte kan säljas i Sverige behöver därmed vara kostnadseffektiv men också fortfarande ge en miljönytta, eftersom det är den främsta anledningen till att ta hand om textilavfallet.  Denna studie utgår från fem av Röda Korsets second hand-butiker och undersöker tre scenarier för hantering av detta textilavfall. Målet med studien är att undersöka vilket scenario som innebär den lägsta kostnaden för Röda Korset, störst miljönytta samt störst samhällsekonomisk nytta. Referensscenariot innebär att textilerna sorteras i butik där textilavfallet transporteras till närmaste återvinningscentral för förbränning. Scenario 1 innebär att textilerna sorteras i butik för att transporteras till depåer, för att sedan exporteras till Tyskland för återanvändning, materialåtervinning samt förbränning. Scenario 2 undersöker regional sortering av textilerna där textilavfallet transporteras till Tyskland för återanvändning, materialåtervinning samt förbränning.  Studien görs utifrån metoden för kostnads-nyttoanalyser där kostnader och nyttor för de olika scenarierna identifieras för att sedan monetäriseras. Data som används har erhållits av Röda Korset och har kompletterats med en litteraturstudie kring miljöpåverkan för de olika processerna samt monetäriseringen av dessa.  Resultatet av kostnads-nyttoanalysen var att regional sortering (Scenario 2) bidrar till störst samhällsekonomisk nytta och är samtidigt mest kostnadseffektivt för Röda Korset, medan Scenario 1 är mest miljömässigt fördelaktig på grund av de kortare transporter som scenariot innebär. En känslighetsanalys gjordes för felkällorna i rapporten, de som hade störst påverkan på resultatet var uppskattningen av arbetstid vid sortering i butik, exkluderandet av arbetstiden som görs av frivilliga samt vattenanvändningens miljöpåverkan i produktionen av textil. Trots deras stora påverkan på resultatet bedömdes de inte ha nog påverkan för att ändra det övergripande resultatet, att scenariot för regional sortering var mest lönsamt.  Eftersom Röda Korsets butiker har en stor variation i hur de drivs, geografisk placering och textilflöde skulle resultatet kunna skilja sig mycket beroende på vilka butiker som kopplas till en regional sortering. Detta gäller främst om butikerna har större avstånd, effektivare sorteringstakt eller extrema flöden jämfört med de som studerades i denna rapport. Utöver de kostnader och nyttor som tas med i denna rapport finns det även ytterligare fördelar med regional sortering för Röda Korset, dessa tas upp i diskussionen och är till exempel minskad sårbarhet för butikerna, mer specialiserad sortering som kan bidra till ökade intäkter samt minskade flöden till export.  Slutligen diskuteras även det producentansvar för textil som regeringen utreder som åtgärd för att minska andelen textil som slängs i restavfallet i Sverige. Slutsatsen från denna diskussion var att det skulle behövas ytterligare bredd i utredningen för producentansvaret. Dels kring de rekyleffekter som skulle kunna uppstå, som ökad konsumtion i vetande om att textiler man gör sig av med inte bara förbränns, dels kring hur man praktiskt ska genomföra producentansvaret för att textilflödena ska gå till återanvändning och inte direkt till materialåtervinning. På grund av den låga återanvändningsgraden i Sverige skulle också ytterligare studier behövas kring de hinder som finns för att svenskar ska öka sin återanvändning. / Every year, a Swede throws close to 6 kg textile directly into their residual waste, even though 60 percent of this textile waste often is in good condition and could be re-used. In a resource-intensive society with increasingly scarce resources, measures to reduce textile consumption are crucial. The production accounts for the largest part of textiles' climate impact due to the extensive use of water, energy, and chemicals. This is why re-use of textiles is an important measure to reduce the climate impact of textiles.  Charities with second-hand activities have a significant role for increasing re-use of textiles in Sweden. However, only 20 percent of what is collected by charities is reused and the remaining textile goes mainly to exports, and a small proportion to incineration in Sweden. On the other hand, managing the textiles that remain unsold in Sweden costs money that could have gone to the main purpose of the charities. For the Swedish Red Cross, which this study was conducted for, their main purpose is to alleviate and prevent disasters and crises. Thus, the Swedish Red Cross' handling of their unsold textiles needs to be cost-effective but also provide an environmental benefit, as this is the main reason for taking care of textile waste.  This study is based on five of the Swedish Red Cross' second-hand stores and examines three scenarios of logistics for managing their textile waste. The aim of the study is to investigate which scenario entails the lowest cost for the Swedish Red Cross, the greatest environmental benefit, and the greatest socio- economic benefit. In the reference scenario, the textiles are sorted in the stores where the textile waste later is transported to the nearest recycling center for incineration. Just as in the reference scenario, the textiles are sorted in the stores in Scenario 1, but the textile waste is instead transported to depots, and finally exported to Germany for reuse, material recycling and incineration. Scenario 2 examines regional sorting of textiles where the textile waste, as in Scenario 1, is transported to Germany for reuse, material recycling and incineration.  The study is based on the method for cost-benefit analyzes where costs and benefits for the different scenarios are identified and monetized. The data have been obtained from the Swedish Red Cross and have been supplemented with a literature study on the environmental impact of the various processes and their monetization.  The result of the cost-benefit analysis was that regional sorting (Scenario 2) both contributes to the greatest socio-economic benefit and is the most cost-effective scenario for the Swedish Red Cross, while Scenario 1 is most environmentally beneficial due to the shorter transports that the scenario entails. A sensitivity analysis was conducted for the sources of error in the report. The sources of errors that were assessed to have the greatest impact on the result were the estimate of working hours for sorting, the exclusion of working hours done by volunteers and the environmental impact of water use in textile production. Despite their substantial impact on the result, these sources of error were assessed not to have enough impact to change the overall result, that the scenario for regional sorting was most profitable.  Since the Swedish Red Cross' stores have a large variation in how they are administered, geographical location and textile flow, the result could differ greatly depending on which stores are linked to a regional sorting. These factors are particularly relevant if the stores have greater distances, more efficient sorting rates or extreme textile flows compared to the stores studied in this report. In addition to the costs and benefits included in this report, there are other benefits of regional sorting for the Swedish Red Cross. Some are discussed in this report, such as reduced vulnerability for the stores, more specialized sorting that can contribute to increased revenues and reduced flows to export.  Finally, the Swedish government is investigating a producer responsibility for textiles as a measure to reduce the proportion of textiles that are thrown away in residual waste in Sweden. The conclusion from this discussion was that further expanding of scope in this investigation is needed. For example, with an inclusion of the rebound effects that could occur, such as increased consumption with the knowledge that textiles you dispose are not just incinerated. Furthermore, how to practically implement producer responsibility so that textile flows go to re-use and not directly to material recycling. Due to the low degree of re-use in Sweden, further studies would also be needed on the obstacles that exist for Swedes to increase their re-use.