"Pre-loved: vintage shops as an alternative to fast fashion" Mgr. Varvara Borisova Supervisor: Mgr. Yasar Abu Ghosh, Ph.D. Abstract Thrifting has long been perceived as a matter of nonconformists, eccentric artists, and people with limited budgets. However, the consumerist philosophy of so-called fast fashion which is driven by the ever-changing trends and the impact of the fashion industry on environment and global labor market has become a reason for many customers to find a greener and more ethical way to supply their wardrobes. While some of us gave up shopping at all, fashion gurus turned their attention to secondhand clothes: thrift shops changed to vintage boutiques and used garments became known as "pre-loved". This thesis aims to analyze practices which owners of Czech secondhand and vintage shops use to create value, understand the obsession by things from the 20th century and focus on the role of such stores in the development of sustainable fashion in the Czech Republic. Key words: vintage, thrift, theory of value, fast fashion, nostalgia, sustainability, material culture

Owing to technological development, companies want to transmit a memorable customer experience to their customer in order to enhance their competitive advantage. The purpose of this thesis is twofold - (1) to explore how E-tailers of vintage are working to create memorable online customer experiences and (2) to identify the challenges vintage E-tailers face whilst trying to create these experiences. Earlier research focusing on consumer experience within an online setting was used as a theoretical framework. Semi-structured interviews with eight successful companies, all working with selling vintage online was conducted, and conclusions using thematic analysis were drawn. The findings showed that the most important factors were unique and wide assortment, establishing trust, and adequate communication. The study also shows that the main challenges are related to the complex assortment and its growth, as well as the consumer attitudes. In contrast to the current literature, this study shows that the utilitarian feature is not important and it is something that the customers take for granted. The hedonic features are perceived as being of higher importance. A suggested framework of how to create memorable customer experiences in the context of vintage is also constructed.

The subject of my practical diploma thesis is a painting reaction to the photographs from years 1915 to 1930. I see them as a " photographs of dead(lost) world. The photographs of people whose dont live in present but the photographs are evidence of their existence in the past.

This paper is about my investigation of early bluegrass recording techniques and the processes they used. After doing some extensive research, and compiling a database of black and white photographs from the time period, I felt I had enough information to assemble a team to try and produce the sounds, tonal qualities, and energy those recordings have. So John Kornhauser, Joshua Gooding, Hunter Berry, Sarah Griffin, along with myself, went to BigTone studios and tracked for two four hour sessions. BigTone studios has all of the vintage microphones, tape recorders, echo chambers, and out board equipment I need to replicate the same signal chain that was used on the early recordings. After the recording process, I mixed and mastered the songs to match the early recordings as closely as possible. We also recorded one song at ETSU’s studio that was all digital with new equipment to show the differences in the sound of analog versus digital recording. I have included both so that you can listen to each and determine for yourself if there is an audible difference, and if that difference is worth pursuing.

Dagens modekonsumtion har lett till att en stor mängd kläder slängs utan anledning vilket har en mycket stor inverkan på miljön. Modeindustrin har identifierats som en stor bidragande faktor till plastföroreningen i haven och är även ansvarig för 20 procent av det globala vattenspillet och 10 procent av planetens totala koldioxidutsläpp. I denna kvalitativa studie har en undersökning gjorts för att se om konsumenter i Sverige är villiga att köpa sina kläder i andra hand istället för nyproducerade och även hur andrahandsmarknaden kan växa och bli bättre och mer attraktiv. För att kunna lära oss om konsumenters vanor kopplade till shopping har skribenterna genomfört en enkätstudie med människor i alla åldrar. Semistrukturerade intervjuer har även genomförts med företag från second hand-sektorn för ytterligare kännedom om branschen. Resultatet av studien visar att andrahandsmarknaden har vuxit under de senaste åren och att den främsta anledningen till varför konsumenter väljer andrahandsplagg är av miljömässiga skäl. Vidare visar studien att den yngsta generationen, människor under 20 år, är den grupp som visar lägst intresse för second hand vilket är oroande då detta är framtidens konsumenter. / Today’s fashion consumption has led to a big amount of clothes being thrown away for no reason, greatly impacting the environment. The fashion industry has been identified as a big contributor to the plastic pollution of the oceans and is also responsible for 20 percent of the global water waste and 10 percent of the globe’s total carbon dioxide emissions. In this qualitative study, an investigation is made as to whether consumers in Sweden are willing to buy their clothes second hand instead of newly-produced and how the second hand market can grow and become better and more attractive. In order to learn about the consumers’ habits linked to shopping, a survey was conducted by people of all ages. Semi-structured interviews were also done with companies within the second hand sector to further learn about the business. The outcome of this study shows that the second hand market has grown over the last few years and that the biggest reason for people to choose second hand is because of environmental factors. Furthermore, the study finds that the youngest generation, people under the age of 20, is the group that is the least interested in second hand, which is a cause for concern since this group is the consumers of the future.

Retro art and technology have been on the rise in recent years, the phenomenon is fuelled by the nostalgia of a sense of authenticity that the offline world can no longer satisfy. The integration of technology into human’s social conduct has made it an extension of their beings. Faced with technological progress, people also yearn to regress to the age-old days of their childhood. Nostalgia often comes with romanticization of the past, but it also offers a sense of security and realness that is seemingly lost amid the constant exchange of data in the present time. This lays ground for the rise of faux-vintage photos on social application Instagram. Bracing itself as a modern digital media, Instagram capitalizes on nostalgia for the analog and fetishization of the retro aesthetics of old media. While researchers have noted the link between Instagram and digital nostalgia, these works remained within the theoretical realm. Using a combination of interface criticism and interview, the paper focuses on human and computer interaction to study digital nostalgia and mediated authenticity on Instagram. The findings point out the complexity of Instagram as a social network and a creative tool in the emerging age of pervasive computing, in which the technology increasingly integrates and fades into the background of our everyday lives. The paper’s intention is to develop further understanding of retromodern technology, particularly Instagram, in reconstructing our knowledge of society and everyday social conduct. A better comprehension of our digital culture is crucial to the development of the self and society.

Vintage fashion och secondhandkläder har fått ett nytt ljus i dagens samhälle. Det har alltid funnits en andrahandsmarknad för kläder, men nu när det kallas vintage har det blivit högsta mode. Fler och fler söker sig till butiker eller platser som kan förse sina kunder med det annorlunda plagget som ingen annan har. Men ändå finns det ett berg av kläder som skräpar ner vårt samhälle. Vad som orsakar detta är våra gigantiska klädimperier som manipulerar konsumenterna med det ”trendiga” då det är följd av shoppande och exklusivitet. Hur vi konsumenter bär oss åt efter konsumering av våra kläder är oklart för de flesta av oss. Orsaken kan vara att man inte begrundar det som något viktigt då det bara är kläder. Även kläder kan innehålla kemikalier som kan vara skadliga för miljön. Varje dag ökar mängden avfall i samhället och att deponera avfallet på soptippen är ingen långsiktig lösning. Upplösning av avfall kan både leda till föroreningar och till starkt koncentrerade och förorenande restprodukter. Vi måste bli bättre på att hantera vårt klädesavfall så att det på sikt gynnar både den enskilda människan och vår miljö. Vi har försökt beskriva vad som ger upphov till uppkomsten av alla dessa klädesavfall och även kunna upplysa om hur man kan hantera situationen på ett bättre sätt. Det finns många olika alternativ för att på ett bättre sätt hantera våra konsumerade kläder. Berget av klädesavfall bara växer så varför inte byta kläder med varandra, låna kläder från klädbiblioteket, lämna in kläderna till respektive klädkedjor, skänka det till någon secondhandbutik eller varför inte göra om kläderna på egen hand. / <p>Vintage fashion and secondhandclothing has gained new light in today's society. There has always been a secondary market for clothes, but now that it is called vintage, it has become very fashionable. More and more people are looking for the stores or locations that can provide their customers with the different garment that no one else has. But still, there is a mountain of clothes that litter our society. What’s causing this is our gigantic clothing empires that manipulate consumers with the "trendy" when it is due to excitement and exclusivity. How we as consumers behave after the consumption of our clothing is unclear for most of us. The reason may be that you do not ponder it as something impor¬tant because it is only clothing. Even clothing may contain chemicals that can pollute the environment. Every day the amount of waste in society increases and to deposit the waste at the landfill is no long-term solution. Dissolution of waste can lead both to pollution and highly concentrated and polluting wastes. We must become better at dealing with our garment waste so that it ultimately benefits both the individual and our environment. We have tried to describe what gives rise to the emergence of all these garment waste and also to provide information on how to handle the situation better.There are many different options to better manage our clothing consumption. The mountain of garment waste only grows so why not change clothes with each other, to borrow clothes from the clothes library, provide clothes for each clothing stores, donate it to a secondhand store or why not remake the clothes on your own.</p><p>Program: Kandidat inom Magisterutbildning i fashion management med inriktning modemarknadsföring</p>

Shifting cultures of recycled style: a history of second-hand clothing markets in Montreal draws a cultural history of the evolving circuits through which discards of the fashion system pass. The focus is on three manifestations of the market: the female-dominated charity circuits of the nineteenth-century into which the flow of used goods was redirected following the introduction of mass-produced garments; the revival of cast-off clothing's stylish potential by punk and grunge subcultures in their respective creations of a poverty aesthetic; and the more heterogeneously mainstream market of the late 1980s and 1990s operating within a consumer environment seeped in nostalgia. / The second-hand market is a facet of the fashion system receiving scant attention by the academic community. This study aims to redress the oversight by demonstrating how much of a given society is revealed through the ways in which its members manage the matter of sartorial waste.

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I dagens Sverige konsumeras årligen stora mängder kläder. Nyproduktion av textil har en betydande miljöpåverkan med bland annat stor åtgång av vatten samt mängder av kemikalier. Ett alternativ till allt nyproducerat skulle kunna vara andrahandsmarknaden för kläder.Syftet med studien är att undersöka om de kvinnliga kunderna hos butikerna Myrorna och Beyond Retro konsumerar färre nyproducerade plagg för att de konsumerar second hand- och vintagekläder.Vi har använt oss utav en kvantitativ undersökning där vi intervjuat totalt hundra stycken respondenter i anslutning till Myrorna och Beyond Retros butiker. Vidare har vi genomfört fem stycken kvalitativa intervjuer med vana konsumenter hos ovannämnda butiker, för att fånga deras resonemang bakom svaren.De kvantitativa intervjuerna visar på att en liten majoritet anser sig konsumera färre nyproducerade plagg för att de konsumerar second hand- och vintagekläder. Samt att det överhängande motivet bakom köpen var att second hand- och vintagekläder är unikt och trendigt. I de kvalitativa intervjuerna var resultatet på vår huvudfråga omvänd, och ett djupare resonemang fördes kring deras agerande. Dessa respondenter visade sig i vissa fall ha överskattat sitt konsumerande av second hand- och vintagekläder i förhållande till nyproducerade plagg.In Sweden today we are consuming large quantities of clothes. Production of textiles have significant environmental effects, including high consumption of water and chemicals. An alternative to all the new produced clothes could be the second hand- clothes market.The purpose of this study is to investigate whether the female clients of the stores Myrorna and Beyond Retro consume fewer newly garments because they consume second hand- and vintageclothes.We have used a quantitative study where we interviewed a total of one hundred respondents in connection with Myrorna and Beyond Retro stores. Furthermore, we have conducted five qualitative interviews with consumers of the above stores to capture respondents&apos; reasoning behind the answers.The quantitative interviews show that a small majority consider themselves to consume fewer newly constructed garments when they consume second hand- and vintageclothes. The largest motive behind the purchase was that the second hand- and vintageclothes is unique and trendy. In the qualitative interviews were the result to our main question in reverse, and a deeper reasoning on their actions were disused. These respondents appeared in some cases have overestimated their consuming of second hand- and vintageclothes in relation to the newly constructed garments. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning