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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
231

INVESTIGATING THE ROLE OF GROUP DYNAMICS ON SPORT FANS’ TEAM APPAREL CONSUMPTION BEHAVIOR

Lee, Mi Ae January 2018 (has links)
Sport team fans identify with a team and continually internalize their favorite team as part of their self-concept (Wann, Melnick, Russel, & Pease, 2001). However, individuals simultaneously act different from the group to fulfill a psychological need to be distinct and unique (e.g., Brewer, 1991). The majority of prior studies in sport consumption behavior have emphasized that the sense of belonging to a sport team significantly influences a fan’s attitude toward the team and consequent sport consumption behaviors. Beyond the fan-team relationship, there has been limited research on why an individual fan behaves differently from others in the group, specifically why and how sport fans assert their personal and collective selves while in groups. Furthermore, fans attach not only to their favorite sport teams, but also to a fan community which support the team. Under the optimal distinctiveness framework, group dynamics are conceptualized as perceived interchangeability of group inclusion to the same group and interindividual differences (Simon & Kampmeier, 2001). This notion highlights the opposing forces or needs between fan distinctiveness (FD), to be distinct from other group members, and fan inclusiveness (FI), to be similar to other group members, as mutual determinants of the interpersonal self. Thus, the purpose of this research is to explore the psychological mechanism through which sport fans in a fan group balance two conflicting needs of group dynamics to make a decision on team apparel consumption. This was accomplished through two studies. Study 1 employed a survey design to confirm the established evidence on the effects of team identification on team merchandise consumption behaviors in prior sport management studies. It also uncovered the role of group dynamics in sport fans’ team apparel consumption behavior. Findings of Study 1 showed that the mechanism of group dynamics was induced by a level of FI, FD, or both. With a sequential association from university identification (UID) to team identification (TID), the group dynamics were shown to significantly influence team apparel consumption behavior. Study 2 replicated the findings of Study 1 with undergraduate students and National Football League (NFL) fans across group contexts. Study 2 was implemented with the same measurement items to investigate whether the effect of group dynamics on team apparel consumption are moderated by social visibility as a situational cue as well as a boundary condition. Study 2 provided additional evidence of the mechanism underlying the impact of group dynamics on team apparel consumption across two different research contexts. The overarching theoretical implication is that the mediator (group dynamics) and moderators (social visibility and context) influence sport fans’ team apparel consumption behaviors. The pendulum effect between the opposing forces of FI and FD in terms of group dynamics provide an insightful idea to extend optimal distinctiveness theory (ODT) framework and advance the theory. FD and FI play a key role in predicting fan unique team apparel consumption behavior. Moreover, if one of the needs, either FD or FI, are too dominate, the pendulum effect will help balance the needs out. The existing concept of group dynamics explains why sport fans seek unique team products, but cannot account for the traditional perspective of TID to consumption behavior models. Therefore, the current findings further understanding of why and how individuals within a group of fans consume team products based on their unique balance between group inclusiveness and personal distinctiveness. The findings will provide practical guidelines for both teams and sports brand marketers to understand the desire of sophisticated consumers to signal their individuality and what products and services should be offered according to the context-specific need. / Tourism and Sport
232

From Dispossession to Surplus Production: A Theory of Capitalist Accumulation in Neoliberal Bangladesh

Mondal, Lipon Kumar 11 September 2020 (has links)
Dispossession has been playing a central role in capitalist accumulation over the last four-hundred-year history of modern capitalism. This dissertation theorizes how dispossession contributes to producing and reproducing the capitalist mode of production in Bangladesh. To do so, the dissertation empirically examines three interrelated aspects of dispossession in its three analytical chapters. First, it explores how the state and the market work in tandem to organize and control dispossession while grabbing land and expelling peasants from their places. Next, it investigates how dispossession contributes to providing 'potential capitals,' such as grabbed land and dispossessed peasants, to the production sites to be converted into 'constant capital' and 'variable capital' and to creating antagonistic class relations. Finally, it explores how market and non-market actors control those dispossessed peasants-turned-workers inside and outside factories to produce surplus values in order to reproduce the capitalist system locally and globally. These three interactive components of dispossession show three successive phases of capitalist accumulation: land-grabbing by divorcing independent producers from their livelihoods (the initial phase), converting land into capital, peasants into wage workers, and non-capitalists into capitalists (the intermediate phase), and controlling and exploiting those wage workers to produce surpluses or a cycle of new capital (the final phase). This dissertation accordingly advances a full-scale theory of dispossession in its concluding chapter by examining how the starting, intermediate, and ending points of dispossession contribute to capitalist accumulation. The dissertation draws on a wide range of empirical evidence collected from Panthapath, Dhaka, Bangladesh. These include 77 life histories, 50 interviews, a land-use survey of 1,007 structures, and a short survey of 147 slums. It also uses various historical records and archival documents. The three major findings of this dissertation are as follows. First, the dissertation shows that the state acts as a class to organize land grabs, often working in tandem with the private sector, but also in direct competition with the market. Not only does the state monopolize extra-economic means to grab land, but the market also often gains access to extra-economic means. Next, the dissertation shows that dispossession works to privatize the commons, proletarianize subsistence labor, create antagonistic class relations, and redistribute wealth upward. Finally, the dissertation identifies a new regime of labor control, called social despotism, that dominates and exploits workers in factories to produce surpluses. I conclude this study with policy recommendations designed to address the various dimensions of structural injustice described in this dissertation. / Doctor of Philosophy / This dissertation theorizes how dispossession contributes to producing and reproducing the capitalist mode of production in Bangladesh. In its three analytical chapters, the dissertation empirically examines three interrelated aspects of dispossession. First, it explores how the state and the market work in tandem to organize and control dispossession while grabbing land and expelling peasants from their places. Next, it investigates how dispossession contributes to providing grabbed land and dispossessed peasants to the production sites and to creating various class hierarchies. Finally, it explores how market and non-market actors control peasants-turned-workers inside and outside factories to produce surplus values in order to reproduce the capitalist system. These three interactive components of dispossession show three successive phases of capitalist accumulation: land-grabbing by evicting peasants from their places (phase 1), converting land into capital, peasants into wage workers, and non-capitalists into capitalists (phase 2), and exploiting wage workers to produce surpluses (phase 3). This dissertation accordingly advances a full-scale theory of dispossession in its concluding chapter by examining how the starting, intermediate, and ending points of dispossession contribute to capitalist accumulation. The dissertation draws on a wide range of empirical evidence collected from Panthapath, Dhaka, Bangladesh. These include 77 life histories, 50 interviews, a land-use survey of 1,007 structures, and a short survey of 147 slums. It also uses various historical records and archival documents. Some of the major findings of this dissertation are as follows. First, the dissertation shows that the state acts as a class to organize land grabs, often working in tandem with the private sector, but also in direct competition with the market. Not only does the state monopolize extra-economic means to grab land, but the market also often gains access to extra-economic means. Next, the dissertation shows that dispossession works to privatize the commons, proletarianize subsistence labor, create exploitative class relations, and redistribute wealth upward. Finally, the dissertation identifies a new regime of labor control, called social despotism, that oppresses and exploits workers in factories to produce surpluses.
233

Dependency and development in the garment industry: Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands

Heidebrecht, Sarah E. January 1900 (has links)
Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Joy Kozar / This study examines colonization, development, and globalization in the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI) with respect to the garment industry, the main industry of the islands. A broad-reaching analysis examined population, gender, economic factors, and import/export data in order to explore the repercussions of garment industry development and subsequent decline on the CNMI. A quantitative analysis was conducted utilizing data from the United States Census Bureau, the CNMI's Department of Commerce, and the U.S. Department of Commerce Office of Textiles and Apparel. This research illustrates how the effects of the garment industry in small developing nations are dramatically impacted by a trade arrangement, the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA), which was a protectionist measure used to restrict manufacturing of certain product through a quota system. In addition, this study reveals the economic implications and societal outcomes for the CNMI after the collapse of the garment industry as a result of the 2005 MFA phase-out. Garment production orders shifted to large producer nations once quota restrictions were no longer in place. Factory closures, lost business revenue, and a loss of manufacturing positions affecting predominantly women plagued the CNMI as well as cost-of-living increases. Federalization of the CNMI took place in 2009 which further complicated the islands’ politics and guest worker population status. Tourism is now the CNMI's chief industry although its growth is dismal and heavily reliant upon world economies. A comparison between Mauritius, another small island nation, concludes the discussion with insight on women's development and future considerations for economic growth as a means of development and dependency in the CNMI.
234

Investigating the influence of perceived characteristics of innovation on the relationship between knowledge, attitudes and purchase intention towards eco-conscious apparel

Kandiraju, Gayathri January 1900 (has links)
Doctor of Philosophy / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Melody L. A. LeHew / The relationship between knowledge, attitudes and behavior has been a subject of interest for researchers for several decades in various fields of study. However, an inconsistency has been found from one study to another with literature showing inconclusive and inconsistent results regarding the relationship between knowledge, attitudes and behavior in general and purchase of eco-conscious apparel in particular. Literature also found perceived characteristics of innovation (PCI) to significantly influencing innovation adoption. However, research investigating the influence of eco-conscious apparel knowledge (EAK) and eco-conscious apparel attitudes (EAA) on intention to purchase eco-conscious apparel (IPEA) that includes PCI has not been conducted in any previously published studies. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the influential relationship between EAK-EAA-IPEA to understand if including PCI strengthens the inconsistent link between knowledge, attitudes and behavior as well as enhances the predictability of IPEA. The model of stages in the innovation-decision process developed by Roger’s (1983) in the diffusion of innovation theory was used as a theoretical framework for developing the model of innovation-decision process for eco-conscious apparel. Specifically, the three product characteristics used in this current study were based on the PCI (i.e., complexity, compatibility and relative advantage) explained by Rogers (1983) in his model. Two objectives were developed and tested using six research questions and pertinent hypotheses. The research relied on quantitative analysis of responses from 592 respondents to an online survey with eco-conscious knowledge, attitude and behavior questions pertaining eco-conscious apparel products. Hierarchical regression analysis, t-test and correlation analysis reveal that, inclusion of PCI significantly strengthened relationship between EAK-EAA-IPEA and also enhanced the predictability of IPEA; the ability to predict IPEA as well as strength of the link between EAK-EAA-IPEA was greater when more information was provided about eco-conscious apparel than less information; respondents have limited EAK; EAK was not a good predictor of IPEA; EAA was found to significantly predict IPEA; highly innovative respondents perceive eco-conscious apparel less complex and highly compatible and are more likely to purchase eco-conscious apparel; all three PCI were found to significantly predict IPEA; demographic variables were found to be related to only certain variables in this study.
235

Konstruktionen av CSR : Klädföretags agerande efter institutionella logiker / The construction of CSR – Apparel companies acting upon institutional logics

Palmberg, Daniel January 2016 (has links)
Konceptet Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) och varför företag väljer att arbeta med det debatteras av många, inom akademin såväl som utanför. Dock finns det en oenighet i vad som inkluderas i ett företags arbete med CSR. Denna studie hävdar att nuvarande teorier som används är oförmögna att förklara den komplexa omgivning som företag verkar inom och därmed inte lyckas ge ett bra svar på denna studies syfte, om hur CSR är konstruerat. Studien nyttjar teorin om institutionell logik som verktyg för att kunna utforska företags arbete med CSR i en komplex omgivning och diskursteori för att åskådliggöra innebörden av CSR och dess konstruktion. Trots mycket forskning inom institutionella logiker, skiljer sig denna studie genom sin användning av CSR-rapporter, insamlade från företag i den uppmärksammade klädbranschen, som källor till data.Studien konstaterar att ett klädföretags arbete med CSR utgår från flera parallella, ofta motstridiga, institutionella logiker som formas genom en komplex omgivnings många olika påtryckningar. Studiens resultat beskriver dessutom ett CSR som inkluderar en moralisk ställning där företagen utför filantropiska handlingar, bortom behovet för deras egen verksamhet. Härigenom illustreras en diskursiv konstruktion av CSR som är lika komplex som den omgivningen där företagen verkar, med flera parallella logiker som influerar. Genom svarandet av syftet, gör studien två bidrag till teorin om institutionell logik. I identifieringen av institutionella logiker blir en helt ny institutionell ordning bekräftad. Slutligen, i användningen av CSR-rapporter för analys, uppvisar studien även hur organisationers egna texter kan användas för att identifiera institutionella logiker.Två implikationer kan göras, där den första rör den makt som företagets olika intressenter har i att influera vad CSR innebär och på så sätt också driva påverkan, som betydande komponenter av en omgivning som företagen visar stor följsamhet till. Den andra implikationen berör nödvändigheten i företags beaktande av en CSR-diskurs som inkluderar en moralisk dimension, med ett åtagande som går bortom intresset för den egna verksamheten. / The concept of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) and why companies choose to engage in such task is debated by many, both within the academy as well as outside it. There is however a disagreement in what is included in a company’s engagement in CSR activities. This study argues that current theories in use, are unable to explain the complex environment in which companies operate and therefore incapable of providing good answers to this study’s purpose, concerning how CSR is constructed. This study draws on the theory of institutional logics as a tool in exploring a company’s engagement in CSR in a complex environment and discourse theory in visualizing the meaning of CSR as well as its construction. Despite a great amount of research in institutional logics, this study departs from previous research in its exclusive use of CSR-reports, gathered from companies in the remarkable apparel industry, as sources of data.This study concludes that an apparel company´s engagement in CSR activities emanates from several, often contradictive, institutional logics that take form through numerous different pressures in the environment. The result of the study calls for a CSR that includes a moral stance where the companies perform philanthropic deeds, beyond the needs of their own business. Hereby, the study displays a discursive construction of CSR that is equally complex as the environments in which the companies operate, with numerous different yet parallel logics influencing. In answering the purpose, the study makes two contributions to the theory of institutional logics. In identifying the institutional logics, an entirely new institutional order is acknowledged. Lastly, in using CSR-reports in the analysis, this study shows how texts of organisation´s own making can be used in identifying institutional logics.Two implications can be made, the first being the power that different stakeholder of the company has in influencing the meaning of CSR and how they themselves are part of the process. Thus being able to drive change, as important components in an environment to which companies show great compliance. The second implication concerns the necessity in company’s consideration to a discourse of CSR that includes a moral dimension, comprising a commitment that goes beyond a vested interest for the business.
236

The development of a scale for the measurement of the perceived importance of the dimensions of apparel store image

Janse van Noordwyk, H. S. 03 1900 (has links)
Thesis (PhD (Consumer Science. Clothing and Textiles))--University of Stellenbosch, 2008. / The current apparel retail environment is marked by intense competitive activity. The key to survival is the implementation of effective differentiation strategies. Corporate and retail branding provides retailers with a powerful tool to differentiate themselves in the marketplace and store image is a vital component of this branding strategy. This exploratory study set out to investigate the underlying theoretical structure of store image. A store image scale was developed for the measurement of the perceived importance of store image. The study adopted a five phase methodology, namely (1) construct definition and domain specification, (2) generation and judging of measurement items, (3) purification of the store image scale, (4) assessing the reliability and validity of the store image scale, and (5) assessing the perceived importance of the dimensions of store image in selected discount and specialty stores through practical implementation of the store image scale. The first two phases of the study resulted in a Model of Store Image delineating the underlying structure of store image which formed the basis for a store image definition, as well as a 232-item store image scale with established content and face validity. Phase 3 comprised two pilot studies that served to purify the store image scale. The first pilot study concluded in a 214-item scale that was deemed too lengthy for practical implementation in the apparel retail environment. The second pilot study resulted in a 55-item store image scale that was deemed acceptable for practical implementation. Correlation analysis provided support for the shortened version of the store image scale. The scale was not representative of all the sub dimensions associated with store image. This was reflected in the Revised Model of Store Image. Phase 4 employed a mall-intercept research method. The sample population (n=534) consisted of apparel consumers, both male and female, between the ages of 20 and 60. They belonged to the black, coloured or white population groups who patronised specific apparel retail outlets. Trained fieldworkers gathered the data at selected discount and specialty apparel stores. Confirmatory factor analysis was performed on the data and results provided support for the reliability of the store image scale. The Atmosphere, Convenience, Institutional, and Promotion dimensions exhibited good model fit. The Facilities and Sales personnel dimensions, as well as the Revised Model of Store Image showed evidence of acceptable model fit. The Merchandise and Service dimensions demonstrated poor fit. Only the Sales personnel dimension showed convergent validity. Support was found for marginal convergent validity of the Atmosphere, Convenience, Facilities, Promotion, and Service dimensions, as well as the Revised Model of Store Image. The Institutional and Merchandise dimensions did not exhibit convergent validity. Apart from the Convenience and Service dimensions, discriminant validity for all dimensions was established. Item analysis identified seven scale items for deletion which could potentially result in better model fit of the individual dimensions as well as the Revised Model of Store Image. The deletion of these items could contribute to increased convergent and discriminant validity. For purposes of Phase 5 the data gathered during Phase 4 was submitted to statistical analysis. Results indicated that discount and specialty apparel store consumers ranked the Atmosphere, Promotion, Merchandise, Institutional, and Sales personnel dimensions similarly in perceived importance. Discount apparel store consumers ranked the Facilities and Convenience dimensions higher, whilst specialty consumers ranked the Service dimension higher. However, the differences in ranking for all dimensions remained relatively small for both store types. Statistical differences in the perceived importance of only two dimensions, namely the Institutional and Service dimensions were found. The study culminated in revised 48-item store image scale. A Final Model of Store Image and definition of store image were proposed as point of departure for future research.. The main implications for retailers were formulated as: 􀂍 The Final Model of Store Image identified the dimensions and sub dimensions of store image. Retailers should manipulate the tangible and intangible store attributes associated with these dimensions and sub dimensions to build a favourable store image. Due to the gestalt nature of store image it is imperative that all store image dimensions are presented in a cohesive and consistent manner. 􀂍 The store image scale will enable retailers to ascertain which dimensions are salient to their target consumers. These dimensions should be incorporated in the retail strategy.
237

Exporting knitted apparel : a study of the determinants of exporting performance in the UK knitted apparel sector

Murphy, Owen Patrick January 2008 (has links)
As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher's earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.
238

全球運籌體系成衣製造商產銷管理作業流程電子化研究

李國勳 Unknown Date (has links)
我國成衣製造商基於「成本」、「貿易障礙」以及「區域經濟興起」三個因素之考量,紛紛將生產基地移至中國大陸、越南、柬埔寨等生產成本低廉地區,或是在北美自由貿易協定(NAFTA)規範下,享有輸美免關稅、免配額優惠之墨西哥等地區,以致於生產基地分散全球各地。加以我成衣外銷以美國為主,原物料供應商來源也分散,我國成衣製造商「客戶」、「生產工廠」、「供應商」分散各地的全球運籌架構於焉成形。 全球運籌架構下成衣製造商如何透過電子化有效彙整訂單資訊、生產資訊以及供料資訊,做出迅速且最有效之生產配置,並且如何掌控訂單進度,快速回應客戶查詢需求,達到顧客滿意,是本研究之主旨。 經過研究瞭解,全球運籌體系下OEM模式的成衣製造商其產銷管理作業電子化關鍵流程在於「產銷協同作業」之執行,其能為成衣製造商帶來「作業面」、「生產面」、「採購面」以及「流程整合面」效益之提升,可以做出最佳「訂單分配」以及能有效「掌握訂單進度」,提升訂單達交率以及快速回應客戶。 / Under consideration of ”Cost”, ”Trading Barrier” and “Local Economics” , our local apparel manufacturers moved their factories to Mainland China, Vietnam , Cambodia in order to lower production cost or to Mexico in order to get tariff-free, quota-free premiums NAFTA give. The States is the major nation we export apparel to, moreover , sources of raw material suppliers are also dispersant. According to the above reasons, our apparel manufacturers operate under the global logistics structures. The keynote of this research is to understand how apparel manufacturers integrate order information, production information and supply information by electronic ways to make the optimal production allocation and to control the order progress to echo clients’ inquiring needs. After researching, the key process of electronic production distribution ways is the “Collaboration”. It can promote the performance on “Operation Side”, “Production Side”, ”Procurement Side” and “Process Integration Side” to let apparel manufacturers to make the optimal order allocation and to control order progress effectively to lift the on-time rate and to fit the quick-response request of clients.
239

The end of the multifibre agreement : a case study of South Africa and China / Melissa Chantel Kruger

Kruger, Melissa Chantel January 2011 (has links)
The Multifibre Agreement ("MFA") regulated textile trade until 1 January 2005. It was predominantly focused on curtailing textile exports from developing countries, like South Africa and China. With the end of the MFA, a textile crisis occurred in South Africa due to the domination of the domestic market by more affordable Chinese textile products. This case study is applied to illustrate the inadequacy of domestic legislation to provide for the resolution of an international trade dispute that affects an industry. No legislation refers to the resolution of the trade dispute by entering into a Memorandum of Understanding ("MOU"), or recourse to the neutral dispute settlement body of the World Trade Organisation ("WTO"). Due to the absence of legislation that directly addresses either forum, all the power is vested• in the government to determine the appropriate course of action. Applications brought by textile industry representative bodies like TEXFED, CLOTRADE and SACTWU were inadequately investigated due to the limited powers of the independent investigative body, ITAC, and were ultimately abandoned. The government entered into a MOU with the Chinese government and in doing so violated international agreements, rights and obligations. An analysis of the inadequacy of the MOU that was entered into and the suitability of the WTO as dispute settlement body is conducted. It is concluded that the current legislation is inadequate in that it doesn't provide for recourse to the WTO and in that it doesn't clearly set out the obligations on government and the independent powers of an independent body. / LLM (Import and Export Law), North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2012
240

Exigences environnementales et accès au marché : application au textile-habillement : le cas de la Tunisie / Environmental requirements and market access : application to textile-apparel : the case of Tunisia

Hasni, Radhouane 11 July 2012 (has links)
L’objet de cette thèse est de déterminer l’effet des normes environnementales sur lecommerce du Textile-Habillement et d’analyser les stratégies adoptées dans ce cadre par lespays en développement, plus particulièrement, par la Tunisie. Les exigencesenvironnementales, volontaires et obligatoires, ont touché essentiellement la branche textile etpourraient se substituer aux instruments traditionnels de protectionnisme après ledémantèlement de l’Accord multifibres en 2005. Les résultats des analyses statistiques etéconométriques montrent un effet positif de la certification environnementale sur lesexportations de certains produits d’habillement vers le marché européen signalant ainsil’importance de cette nouvelle tendance. L’étude est affinée autour du positionnement desfirmes tunisiennes sur la chaîne globale de valeur du Textile-Habillement et des stratégiesadoptées afin de faire face à ces normes environnementales. Nos résultats montrent ladifficulté des firmes tunisiennes à réussir une remontée industrielle. Les exigencesenvironnementales inhibent leur passage de la sous-traitance à la co-traitance. Ellesaccentuent également leur dépendance envers les fournisseurs européens de textile. La thèses’interroge en dernier lieu sur l’intérêt du programme « Tunisian Ecolabel » et sur lesdéterminants de l’adoption de la certification environnementale par les firmes tunisiennes duTextile-Habillement. / The purpose of this thesis is to determine the effect of environmental standards on trade inTextile-Apparel products and to analyse the strategies adopted by developing countries, withspecific reference to Tunisia. Voluntary and mandatory environmental requirements havemainly affected the textile industry and could replace traditional instruments of protectionismafter the dismantling of the Multifibre Arrangement in 2005. The result of statistical andeconometric analysis indicates a positive effect of environmental certification on exports ofcertain apparel products towards the European market denoting the importance of this newtrend. The study is focused upon the Tunisian firms’ positioning in the global value chain ofTextile-Apparel industry and strategies which they will have to implement in order to be ableto meet environmental standards. Our results show the difficulty of Tunisian firms to besuccessful in industrial upgrading. Environmental requirements heighten their dependence onEuropean suppliers of the textile industry and prevent the transition from the originalequipment assembly to original Equipment Manufacturer. Lastly, the thesis discusses theeffectiveness of “Tunisian Ecolabel” program and the determinants for adopting theenvironmental certifications by Tunisian firms’ of the Textile-Apparel industry.

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