台灣自有化妝品品牌經營發展策略 / Taiwan cosmetics market is a very competitive and mature environment with high penetration rate, low growing power and more than one thousand brands in the market. About 80% of the brands are from abroad and 20% are from local companies. Most of the market leaders are owned by international corporates including L’Oreal, Estee Lauder, P&G, Shiseido, and Amorepacific. Although some local cosmetics brands are well known by customers, the brand awareness and sales volume are not outstanding enough to compete with the foreign rivals. The intention of studying brand development strategy to for local Taiwanese brands was inspired based on this phenomenon. In order to understand the market, discover successful factors and define opportunities, both quantitative and qualitative analysis is conducted in chapter two and three. The analysis includes the aspect of total market status overview, brand positioning, product performance, retailing channels, and promotion. In addition, three successful brands and one Taiwanese brand are studied in this section. The key points are summarized as the following. Firstly, skincare sector drives 64% of market value followed by makeup sector with 14%. Also, department stores and personal care stores are the main channels to acquire customer while e-commerce and pharmacies are rising quickly. Thirdly, the competitiveness results in heavy promotion level in Taiwan market. Moreover, increasing amount of Asian tourists and undeveloped males sector will be the opportunities to gain market share. Lastly, elaborating local concept would be a strategy to make local brands distinguished from the other international brands. By taking a Taiwanese skincare brand, Daughter, as a subject, the brand development plan is recommended in the later chapter.

充滿競爭的化妝品市場裡，充斥著國際各大廠牌的身影，如何在這艱難的環境中獲得生存的空間，著實是組織的一大挑戰，而策略則是協助組織進行戰鬥的重要利器。本研究簡單地將市場上化妝品公司分做東西方兩大區塊，各選擇一家個案公司做比較，分別是日本資生堂和法國香奈兒，試圖比較兩方在經營策略上的相異性，以期提供相關企業營運上之參考。另外，也從中發掘適用於其它產業之管理意涵。 　　本研究所進行之策略比較包括有產生策略的基石：企業文化、願景與使命，再來則是探討內外部環境面的情況，接著則會針對集團多角化策略、創新研發策略、企業形象策略、顧客導向策略及行銷策略做分析與比較。 　　總結來說，兩家個案公司會產生差異性的原因事實上和原先所預設的並不相同，反而可能是因為上市與否而產生影響，例如：研發與行銷策略是最為明顯的結果；不過，有些策略的背後意義仍然還是相同的，例如：國際化的企業形象與顧客導向的概念，方向頗為一致。 　　而對於此產業的分析產生了一個很重要的結論，這樣的想法其實不只適用在化妝品產業，而可以延伸至其它事業領域，那就是＂虛實整合＂的做法。現代企業不只是要在產品原先功能或利益上下功夫，更重要的其實則是要注重產品整體的設計感、服務的流程、店面的擺設等感性層面的包裝。今日的顧客對於感官及心靈上的需求滿足加重，純粹功能面的考量已無法對他們產生吸引力，他們要的是能夠讓人驚嘆的瞬間，甚至只是一份感動。因此在未來，組織必須要有能力結合這兩者的力量，找出自己獨特的道路，才能夠在萬人眼中獲得最為深刻的永久注目。 / Cosmetics industry is really a competitive field. It is full of many famous global brands. It is exactly a big challenge for the companies to survive, and strategy definitely a good weapon to fight in this world. This thesis simply divides these cosmetics companies into two blocks, which are eastern and western companies. For each side, it chooses one suitable company for studying, they are Shiseido and Chanel. It tries to compare their business strategies to provide some opinions for related organizations. Also, it finds a useful management implication for other fields. This thesis compares many important strategic points, including organizational culture, vision and mission. Also, it discusses the external and internal environmental situation. Finally, it comprises the analysis of some crucial strategies, including diversification, R&D, organizational image, customers-orientation and marketing. The reason that two companies are different from each other is not quite the same as the hypothesis we think. Unexpectedly, they are influenced by the ownership situation. But some concepts behind the strategies are still familiar, such as international business image and customer-orientation thoughts. There is a really important conclusion derived from this thesis and can be applied to other fields. The modern organizations should combine the physical and sensitive parts of products. They should not just focus on the original benefits or functions of a product, more critical thing is to care about the intangible side, such as packaging, services, design…etc. The product should be attractive from the first sight when customers see it and even can let them feel touch. In the future, companies ought to combine the power of these two sides and also be differential from each other.

本研究綜觀各種產業發現，品牌重定位是廠商經常使用的行銷策略之一，尤以消費品市場較常出現品牌重新定位的現象，所以在本研究中即選擇為消費者帶來情感性利益的「化妝品」作為研究主體，並且以台灣市場作為標的，研究原本在台灣已有販賣的化妝品廠商，透過何種方式，成功轉換其產品定位，以及國外廠商在進入台灣市場時，如何決定欲在台灣市場與母國市場採取品牌定位不一致的策略，並且透過何種行銷組合的調整以達成此目標，並歸納其關鍵成功因素。 本研究顯示，廠商在決定品牌重定位時，主要是因為其原有之品牌定位出現認同/執行表達不佳；是過時的；吸引的市場有限；缺乏當代性或趨於疲乏等問題，而廠商在進行消費者分析時，發現了新的市場區隔或是其他的機會，故促使其從事品牌重定位。 而由於化妝品屬於消費者產品知識較弱之產品，故可利用推敲可能性模式中的周圍線索有效改變消費者認知，因而推導出如下之命題：當品牌重定位的方向為較高級與時尚時，調整產品販售通路、調高產品售價、利用銷售人員服裝儀容的改變與操弄來源國形象能提升消費者之知覺品質或能有效改變消費者認知。 此外，本研究並建議若市場中的消費者對該品牌已有一定認知時，進行品牌重定位的過程應以審慎的改變過程為佳。並對未來欲從事品牌重定位之化妝品廠商提出如下建議：重定位的過程應視消費者對其品牌的知曉程度而異；品牌重定位之前應採取策略性行銷分析；以彩妝為切入點；善用來源國形象與透過整合行銷傳播與消費者溝通。

中國的化妝品市場整體生產快速發展，在2006年全球化妝品銷售額排名中，中國上升兩位，超越了法國和德國，目前已經成為全球第三大化妝品市場。中國由於幅員廣闊，化妝品產業也因此呈現不同的市場區隔，也由於不同市場區隔的差異及特性，使得化妝品產業的發展過程亦充滿不確定性與複雜性。要如何在競爭激烈的產業環境中脫穎而出，正是經營者所要面臨的考驗與智慧。 企業經營成功與失敗的因素有許多，但最重要的是在於採取有效的策略佈局與執行。策略的佈局與實施都與企業文化、公司經營理念、以及當地市場的發展等因素有密切關係。中國大陸市場的產業競爭，已經被世界各國列為一級戰區，雖然許多企業看到大陸市場的龐大潛力，但也不要忽略了為數更多的競爭者與潛在競爭者。策略管理的焦點在於整合人力資源、行銷、財務、會計、生產營運、研究發展以及電腦資訊系統以達到組織的成功。為了對中國大陸的化粧品產業的事業經營策略有所了解，需要具有一個理論性以及實務性相結合的分析架構，本研究以策略矩陣做為分析產業環境以及制定事業策略的管理工具，並結合個案公司進行實證性探討作為驗證。本研究內容對於後續進入到中國大陸的化妝品業者，除了進行產業分析以及事業策略的規劃之時，也提供相關的產業資訊及現成的策略分析架構做為參考依據。

化妝品產業近幾十年來由於受到經濟繁榮發展及人民生活水準的提升而蓬勃發展，化妝品已經從過去的奢侈品，轉為日常生活不可或缺的必需品，使用層面急速擴展，化妝品市場規模亦逐年擴大，具廣大的商機，競爭對手眾多，在此競爭激烈的環境中，如何提升自家化妝品的市場占有率、保留舊顧客、拓展新客源，且與顧客維繫良好的關係，進而提升企業競爭力，為企業須面對的重要課題。 本研究藉由某家化妝品公司之旗下品牌的銷售明細作為研究資料，應用資料採礦分析方法，對各品牌進行顧客價值分群，瞭解各顧客價值群的特性概況，並針對欲探討之顧客群建立顧客購買產品的關聯規則模式，據此推出不同的商品銷售組合，進行有效行銷以提升銷售金額，最後，則依據研究結果對該家化妝品公司提供建議，作為該業者後續經營之參考。

男性的零售市場一直比女性消費市場小許多，除了中國大陸的男士高級腕表及高級男士西服，以送禮為導向，所以得到高成長，但在2013年禁奢令之後，這兩種市場也急遽下滑。 但是男性化妝品去在全球市場大量成長，但是因為基期太小，許多市場仍集中在開架式較為低價的範圍，所以對於專櫃高形象的市場一直是十分匱乏，因此這一塊處女市場，存在成長的空間，但是如何建立，或是市場品牌定位，便是值得探討研究的商機。 而在網路爆炸的時代，各品牌所面臨行銷困境是如何利用有限資源進行有效益的行銷方式，而一般的行銷模式及4P (product、price、place、promotion) 架構顯然已經面臨瓶頸，4C理論架構是針對消費者外顯及內隱4大成本與消費者進行成本交換，由交易成本的觀點切入市場行銷面市場=人口+購買力+購買慾望，購買欲望是指消費者購買商品或服務的動機、願望和要求，是由消費者心理需求和生理需求引發的。產生購買欲望是消費者將潛在購買力轉化為現實購買力的必要條件。而這也呼應4C的3個內隱成本針對動機、願望和要求的消費者交易。 因此對一個新市場-----男性化妝品市場，運用新的4C行銷理論架構，而非傳統由行銷環境分析“STP行銷策略”行銷工具，所衍伸的方式，兩者有相當值得探究的角度。 透過4C 觀念在建立男性品牌時，可以清楚了解在不同區塊如何減低消費者購買成本，也幫助投入資本發揮最大效用，並且更容易檢視其成效，建立有效益的消費者溝通行銷，由第一印象的產品定位外顯效益成本到最深入忠實客戶專屬陷入，能夠全方位的清楚策略及檢視，這也是本論文所要闡述的意義。 / Men’s retail market is much smaller than woman retail market. Expect in China market, due to present behavior for business concern. Luxury watch and high level suits got explosive growth. However after the announcement sumptuary laws in 2013, those two market had drop rapidly. But there is great growth in men’s cosmetic global market. The base is small, so platform of most markets are still focus on mass market. It is lack of department store counter market for men’s product. It is a virgin market which exist space for growth. How to establish and brand position is a great business opportunity to discovery. We are in an era of internet information explosion. How to utilize limited resources to execute an effective marketing promotion are dilemmas for all brands. General marketing pattern and 4P structure obviously are facing bottleneck. Through cost of exchange point of view to cut in marketing by theory of 4C structure which is exchange the cost with consumer base on the 4 cost of explicit and implicit (overt cost per utility、buyer cost of information searching、 buyer cost of moral hazard、 buyer cost of holdup). Market= Population+ Purchasing power+ Purchasing desire. Purchasing desire is motivation, wishes, demands when consumer purchases product or service. It is stir by consumer mental and physical needs. To create purchasing desire is that consumer can transform potential purchase power become sufficient condition. It is to respond to 3 implicit cost of 4C theory which related to consumers trade by motivation, wishes, demand. Though to a new market----- men’s cosmetic market, we can use a new 4C theory structure, not only through traditional STP marketing strategy. There should be a good angle to probe for both men’s market and new 4C theories. Using 4C theory to establish men’s brand, it can create clear picture how to reduce consumer purchase cost in difference area. It also brings the investment into full play, as well as easy to inspect the result. An effective marketing communication to customers also can be well built. From the first impression of product position base on overt cost per utility to the deepest buyer cost of holdup of loyal customers it all can get clear strategy and viewing in full angles. It is a spirit of this thesis.

University of Macau / Institute of Chinese Medical Sciences

本研究設定參與批踢踢美妝版討論的年輕彩妝族群為目標研究對象，假設透過彩妝族群群體討論彩妝議題的方式，不僅可以掌握彩妝活動本身的形貌、內容與特性；更可以由討論呈現看出彩妝實踐者在日常生活中執行彩妝活動的方式，以及其對彩妝活動投入的情感乃至於相關的價值傳遞，藉此得以推敲彩妝族群熱衷於化妝的理由，解析美妝論述的內涵。 綜合網路文本分析、深度訪談與田野觀察三法蒐集資料，將網路社群互動特性區隔為媒介與議題兩大面向，受媒介特性影響BBS美妝版之互動有團體意識、網路從眾性、網路規則與團體極化四大特色，回歸議題討論方式則可區隔為消費、妝容打造技巧與意見交流三大類型討論。由此可知，「美的意識」與「化妝的價值」是美妝論述的重要核心，並據此結合學理發展討論進行深度概念分析。 本研究認為化妝第一層次的意義是融入社會的具體策略，行動者認為透過此策略得以幫助自己以較有利的正向姿態進入社會生活，這不僅肇於實踐者將化妝與「正面特質」高度連結，更重要的是生活中化妝儀式的執行過程的勞動成品，除了更「好」的身體外，還有稱為「自信」的精神成分推動著化妝儀式的永續執行。此外，化妝的正向感受亦來自過程中對於器物與技法的掌握控制，化妝活動的執行並非渾然天成的性別天賦，而是學習教養的歷程；技法操演的遊戲樂趣、對彩妝品項的物件愛戀，創造了彩妝實踐同中有異的細微差別，帶來探索多變的快意。擁有並隨心所欲掌握那些許的不同，是推動每日演練化妝並從中得到難以言傳之滿足感的深層動力。 化妝作為當代日益普及的社會現象，作為年輕世代、網路彩妝社群的特殊文化現象，不可單純由消費社會印象管理的角度解讀，亦不可僅由性別批判觀點切入。本研究一方面不忽略消費社會所提供之場景，特別是化妝活動對商品消費的深度涉入，以及消費社會對身體裝飾提供之大量參考文本，提供本研究別具備脈絡的解讀觀點。另一方面亦不忽略化妝作為女性特殊經驗的觀點，重視且回歸受訪者真實經驗為論證基礎，同理彩妝實踐者之情感並認可其能動性，落實真正實踐者發聲的研究特性，並不忘環境結構對個體之影響，提出具脈絡的社會性觀點陳述解釋彩妝文化現象，是為本文最具特色與價值的研究貢獻。 / This article takes members of virtual community on PTT’s MakeUp conference as main research target. It is assumed that that the makeup issues discussed within bulletin board conference not only depicts the figure and key factors of makeup activity but also proves makeup as an important roles in daily life. All above are deep influenced and composed by beliefs or ideologies of contemporary social context and these insights show us a way to find answers to the question: why girls are so obsessed with makeup. Through text analysis of conference within BBS, interviewing in depth and field research, this article categorizes the characteristics of communication within MakeUp into two perspectives: media oriented and topic oriented. The former based on the emphasis of virtual community perspective includes community solidarity, conformity, netiquette and polarization. The later based on the viewpoint of the topic under discussion includes consumption, makeup skill sharing and opinion trade. This shows the consciousness of being beautiful and the value of makeup are the core of cosmetic discourse. This research reveals that the behavior of makeup signifies two layers of meanings nowadays. The first layer is to take makeup as a beneficial posture for entering social or public life. This fact demonstrates: (1) the high connection between positive values and makeup (2) positive thinking toward applying cosmetics (while these labor products are made) -- Approaching a nicer body and ‘self-confidence’ sustainingly motivates the ritual. Besides, the complete control over cosmetics goods and the face-building process are also the source of pleasure which is not only the second meaning of makeup but also the deeper driving energy of daily makeup ritual. Taking makeup as a spreading cultural phenomenon, it can not be understood from single viewpoint such as consumerism or feminism. For this reason, this article on the one hand takes the consumer society as a background context to get the idea of using cosmetics to make-up the face in daily life. It on the other hand goes deeply into the experiences and practice of those who really love makeup. Through these aspects, this essay eventually gives a sketch for contemporary makeup culture study on both social structure and personal agency as a major contribution.

本研究是探究 「品牌名稱所使用的語言」、「品牌名稱的發音」、「廣告標題 所使用的語言」、「廣告訴求」與「代言人的外型」以上的五項文化面向的相關 要素、符碼對廣告所呈現的「全球消費者文化定位」、「外國消費者文化定位」 與「本國消費者文化定位」之品牌的消費者文化定位造成的影響。 本研究以「內容分析法」分析台灣四本女性時尚雜誌—VOGUE 國際中文版、 VIVI 唯妳時尚國際中文版、MINA 時尚國際中文版及CHOC GIRLS 恰女生中 273 篇化妝品廣告。 本研究發現台灣女性時尚雜誌中化妝品廣告，多使用「全球消費者文化定 位與外國消費者文化定位」作為其品牌的定位策略。 並獲得以下結論： 一、相較於使用中文，若在廣告中使用外國語言作為廣告標題，對判定外國消 費者文化定位有負面的效果。 二、相較於硬性銷售訴求，若在廣告中使用軟性銷售訴求，對判定全球消費者 文化有負面的效果、外國消費者文化定位有正面的效果。 三、相較於與使用當地廣告代言人，若在廣告中使用外國（西方）代言人，對 判定當地消費者文化定位有負面的效果、對外國消費者文化定位有著正面的效 果。 四、相較於與使用當地廣告代言人，若在廣告中使用外國（西方）代言人，對 判定全球消費者文化定位與外國消費者文化定位有著正面的效果，更甚於當地 消費者文化定位。 / This thesis conducts a research of five cultural orientation related elements, or signs—the language used for brand name, the pronunciation of brand name, the language used for advertising title, advertising appeal of either hard-sell or soft-sell for brand positioning, and appearance of spokesperson(s) how to affect the Consumer Cultural Positioning (CCP) of ads. This thesis coducts a content analysis of 273 cosmetics advertisments from four Taiwan women's fashion magazines—VOGUE TAIWAN, VIVI, MINA, and CHOC GIRLS. The thesis finds "Global Consumer Cultural Positioning (GCCP) and Foreign Consumer Cultural Positioning (FCCP)" are used more frequently than Local Consumer Cultural Positioning (LCCP) as the brand positioning strategy in the cosmetics advertisements from Taiwan women's fashion magazines. And, the major conclusions are as following: 1. Compared to using Chinese language, using foreign language as advertising title in an ad has the negative effect to FCCP. 2. Compared to using the hard-sell appeal, using the soft-sell appeal for brand positioning in an ad has the negative effect to GCCP, and the positive effect to FCCP. 3. Compared to using local spokesperson, using western spokesperson for brand positioning in an ad has the negative effect to LCCP, and the positive effect to FCCP. 4. Compared to using local spokesperson, using western spokesperson for brand positioning in an ad has the positive effect to GCCP and FCCP than LCCP.

The cosmetics market is very dynamic and high growth potential industry. This case study will attempt to analyze how L’Oreal’s success in implementing its global growth strategies. The introduction will cover the history of L’Oreal and its amazing growth performance during these past years. This case study will analyze L’Oreal’s business model, a model that is differentiated from others by a combination of research & development, portfolio of brands, a complete distribution network, and financial prowess. With a competitive advantage in production, L’Oreal can concentrate their resources on their star product marketing strategy. An effective brand management emphasizes on categories and channels expertise, innovation via precise positioning, and adaptation at the market level. In addition, L’Oreal believes in a philosophy called “the virtuous spiral”, the driving force behind L’Oreal’s steady persistent growth over these many years.