基於組織、文化與社會三者具有變遷之特性，和彼此互動關係密切的假設，本研究由飲食文化的內涵切入，經由文獻回顧印證魯菜飲食文化的形成暨變遷過程，得知其乃為中國地方文化、社會等互動下的產物。而相對於川、蘇、粵菜系，其較具悠久歷史的孕育、較具有利政經因素的影響、較具獨特資源的供給和較具優勢人文的涵養，固然使魯菜飲食文化成為中國飲食文化的基礎，但也為其埋下了封閉、保守的特性。 本研究以悅賓樓為例，實證結果發現，其所經營的魯菜飲食，無論在物質面向或非物質面向，均有不同程度的改變。前者包括：食材用量結合本地生產，且用量漸增；調味料亦遷就本地消費者習慣，使米酒和提鮮用量增；菜點和烹製技藝方面，則傾向增加水產類菜款，顏色趨於本色但多元，帶鹹菜款比重下降，嫩質感菜款增加和刀工變化與烹調方法趨繁。後者包含：實實在在的管理、正正派派的經營和以客為尊的服務。 由悅賓樓之經營觀之，魯菜飲食文化之變遷主要係受本土化和現代化的影響。而統計與分析顯示，本土化主要表現在菜點和員工兩方面。現代化則顯見於觀念、產品和制度三方面。 本研究其他重要發現則有： 壹、魯菜飲食文化之變遷與形成是漸進的。 貳、魯菜飲食文化變遷之內涵更趨符合現代飲食。 參、魯菜飲食文化變遷的目的非關進步。 肆、魯菜飲食文化的變遷仍持續中。 / Based upon the fact that there are specific features of changes among organizations, culture, and the society, and the hypothesis that they interact closely among one another, adopting methods of historical documents and literature review, this thesis by focusing on the changing content of the cuisine culture; the author proves that the formation and the changes of the Shantung cuisine culture is actually a product of the interaction among regional Chinese culture, the society, etc. In contrast with the Sichuan cuisine, Shanghai cuisine, and Canton cuisine, which enjoy wider popular acceptance, more favorably political and economic influence, better supplied by unique resources, and better humane and social background, the Shantung cuisine culture though has been the base of Chinese cuisine culture, it nevertheless has suffered from being locked-in and conservative. Yueh-Bin-Lou Restaurant is taken as the case study of this thesis. The author found out that the Shantung dishes it serves shows changes to certain extent, both in the material and non-material aspects. The former includes: the amount of the materials used carves relative by proportion of Taiwanese product. The use of seasonings also caters to the tastes of the Taiwanese customers; the consumption of rice wine and MSG increases. The courses and the cookery have shown the following changes: increase of seafood, the color tends to stick to the original but of more varieties; the salty courses are decreasing, tender taste courses appear more often, and more varieties have shown on carving and cooking of food. As to the latter, it includes: practical management, legal operations, and customized services. From the Yueh-Bin-Lou Restaurant case, the author found out that the changes of the Shantung cuisine culture are mainly influenced by indigenization and modernization processes. According to statistics and analysis, the indigenization shows mainly on the ordering of courses, and the hiring of employees; while the modernization can be depicted obviously on concepts, products and systems. Other important findings of this thesis are: 1.The changes and formation of the Shantung cuisine culture are progressive. 2.The content of changes of the Shantung cuisine culture fits more towards modern healthy diet. 3.The purpose of changes of the Shantung cuisine culture has nothing to do with progress. 4.The changes of the Shantung cuisine culture are still undergoing.

自明治時代開始，日本政府為了晉身近代化國家之行列，積極地引進西方文化，而西洋蔬菜之品種及栽培技術的引進亦是西方文化導入政策中的一環。然而，即便是同樣於明治維新期為了近代化而從西方引進的食物，融入日本生活之過程則各有不同。因此，筆者欲以西洋蔬菜之洋蔥為例，加以探討日本飲食文化中受容之樣態。 本稿以洋蔥為例是因為，洋蔥是明治初期所引進之西洋蔬菜中，最早融入於日本飲食生活中之蔬菜。然而，洋蔥不如馬鈴薯般可作為主食食用，且味道較其他蔬菜刺鼻，於是要在毫無抵抗的情況下以新蔬菜的身分融入日本飲食生活中勢必有其難度。因此，筆者欲在本稿中針對洋蔥是如何融入日本之飲食生活，及其融入之過程加以闡述說明。 研究方法方面，首先，藉由蔬菜栽培史闡明官方及民間之洋蔥的導入、生產過程。接著，從宮廷中之菜單、西洋料理之食譜、西洋料理餐廳之菜單等史料中，考察日本之西洋料理中調理洋蔥的方法。再者，從軍隊之菜單、料理學校及女子學校所進行之料理課程的教科書、洋食餐廳之菜單等史料中，考察日本之洋食中調理洋蔥的方法。然後，從軍隊之菜單、料理學校及女子學校所進行之料理課程的教科書、新聞之料理資訊等史料中，考察日本之和食中調理洋蔥的方法。最後，比較洋蔥於西洋料理、洋食、和食中之使用方法異同，以闡明洋蔥是如何融入日本固有之飲食生活的體系中。藉由以前述方法所得到之結果，便可得知洋蔥之具體的受容樣態。 / Starting from the Meiji era (1868), the Japanese government aggressively imported elements of western culture in order to modernize the country. One of the government’s policies was to import western vegetables and cultivation techniques. Even though different foods were imported from the West at the same time, the process of acceptance was different for each kind. In this paper, I would like to use the onion as an example to discuss how western vegetables were adopted into Japanese cuisine. The onion was chosen in this paper because it was the first western vegetable that had taken a firm hold on Japanese cuisine. However, the onion can’t be a staple starch like the potato, and it has a special flavor. So it was not easy to be accepted. In this paper, I would like to examine how the onion was accepted in Japanese cuisine. In this research, the import process and the production process of the onion was examined in the vegetable history of Japan. The cooking method of the onion of the Western food was investigated in the menu of the Imperial Court, the recipe of the western food cookbook, and the menu of the western food restaurant. Then the cooking method of the onion of the Yousyoku (洋食) was investigated in the menu of the army food, the textbook of the cooking school, the girls’ school, and the menu of the Yousyoku (洋食) restaurant. And then the cooking method of the onion of the Japanese food was investigated in the menu of the army food, the textbook of the cooking school, the girls’ school, and the recipe columns of the newspaper. In conclusion, the cooking methods of the onion were compared among the Western food, Yousyoku (洋食), and Japanese food to clearly show how the onion was accepted in the historical Japan and in Modern Japan.

京都大学 / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(地域研究) / 甲第21899号 / 地博第245号 / 新制||地||91(附属図書館) / 京都大学大学院アジア・アフリカ地域研究研究科アフリカ地域研究専攻 / (主査)准教授 大山 修一, 教授 太田 至, 准教授 平野(野元) 美佐, 教授 伊谷 樹一 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Area Studies / Kyoto University / DGAM

危機の時代＝アジア・太平洋戦争に活動した四名の料理家の軌跡をたどる。一般にこの時代は食糧難の時代とされ、料理家のような食の専門家の活動の余地は限られていたとされる。本論文では、こうした見方に批判的な検討を加え、食糧難の時代であるからこそ、食や栄養に関する専門的な技能を持った料理家に、例外的な活動の機会が与えられたとする前提に立ち、田中米・香川綾・近藤とし子・東佐与子の四名の活動を詳述する。 / A hundful of cooking specialists, who were involved in Asia and Pacific War, are to be argued in this thesis. Generally, it is said that there is little room for cooking specialsts to develop their skill and opportunity because of food shortage due to the war. By requestioning this view, each articles focuses on extraordinary opportunities given to cooking specialists; Tanaka Yone, Kagawa Aya, Kondo Toshiko, and Higashi Sayoko. / 博士(現代アジア研究) / Doctor of Philosophy in Contemporary Asian Studies / 同志社大学 / Doshisha University

台灣常被稱為「素食者的天堂」，但對身處台灣的素食者來說，社會互動與人際關的經營仍是在選擇了這種飲食方式之後，所必須面對的挑戰。本研究以質性研究方法，來探討台灣素食者對素食者身份的認同基礎，以及如何以素食者的身分去面對社會互動及經營人際關係。依據參與觀察和深度訪談之資料所得，本研究發現：（一）在認同基礎方面，素食者透過了文化意義的認同與社會群體的認同，以建立其自我之身分意識，並學習素食在日常生活中的實踐方式。同時，其身份認同基礎的文化意義，是游移於社會改革與自我成長的光譜之間，並偏向強調素食與自我轉化間的關連。（二）在實踐過程中，素食者往往會面對五種社會困境，分別是營養缺乏的困境、選擇受限的困境、缺乏樂趣的困境、喪失主動性的困境和道德象徵的困境。在面對這些困境下，素食者傾向以六種方式作為回應：事先宣告、個人化歸因、避免暴露自身感覺、自我貶低、自行準備自我滿足以及建構新的論述。本研究發現，這些現象正呼應了Kanter（1993）對少數群體（minority）處於多數群體（majority）處於多數群體（majority）中的經驗與行為之探討。素食者作為社會上，特別是共餐場合中的少數族群，其所遭遇的社會困境和回應模式跟女性做為少數在以男性為主流的企業中極為相似。（三）對於素食者來說，「素食者」絕非他們唯一扮演的角色。當他們同時是家人、伴侶以及朋友的時候，這些角色有可能會與素食者的角色產生衝突，其反應的模式除了受到少數族群的身分影響之外，互動的過程也受到既有關係中權力分配以及台灣飲食文化的象徵意義所影響。 / Taiwan often is perceived as a “paradise of vegetarian”. However, for vegetarians in Taiwan, they still have to face the challenges in social interactions and relationships with others after choosing vegetarianism. This research used qualitative methods to examine vegetarians’ identities experiences of social interactions and relationships with others in Taiwan. Based on data collected through participant observation and in-depth interviewing, the study found that: According to the results of observation and in-depth interview, the finding is: (1) In the identity aspect, vegetarians construct their identity and learn how to practice vegetarianism through cultural meanings and groups. At the same time, the cultural meanings vegetarian identify across a spectrum between social reformation and self growth, emphasize the relationship between vegetarianism and self growth. (2) In practice process, vegetarians are often in fire five difficult positions: short of nutrition, lack of choices, short of fun, loss of active status and morality sign. Vegetarian prefer to reply those positions by six methods: claim at the beginning, individual reasoning, avoid telling personal feelings, disparaging self, preparing and being satisfied by myself and finally constructing a new discourse. This result responds to research that Kanter studied the experiences of minority in the majority in 1993. Vegetarian are minority in society, especially in meal time. Their difficult positions and responses are similar to the situation women faced in the company when men are the majority. (3) For vegetarian, “vegetarian” are not the only role they are acting. When they act the roles like a family member, a mate and a friend, they may encounter conflicts between vegetarian and the other roles. Those responses might be effected by identity of minority, power distribution in the relationship and symbol of diet culture in Taiwan.

飲食除了作為人類維生的基本需求，也是文化發展的重要一環。甚至隨著人類經濟的發展與文化的提升，飲食已由維生的基本需求與口腹之欲的滿足，更發展到社交、禮儀、養身、修心之美學境界。俄羅斯作為一個歷史悠久的國家，隨著歷史的演進，飲食文化雖然不斷在變遷，也保存不少固有傳統。因此，本論文結合文化與語言的知識，從宏觀角度論述出俄羅斯民族之飲食美學觀。在文化面，本論文將介紹影響俄羅斯飲食文化之形成的地理條件和歷史發展。在語言方面，我們將飲食相關的俄語用語（諺語、俗語、成語、詞組等）與普希金作品有關飲食場景的部分討論，整理並歸納出俄羅斯飲食的民族特色。

本文探討寫者如何將日常經驗轉化為文字作品，尤其如何將難以言喻的飲食經驗透過文字生動地表現。透過此問，試圖揭櫫經驗訴諸文字的過程，以及其間複雜交錯的課題。本文採用體現的取徑(embodied approach)，以當代飲食書寫為考察對象，擇取其中代表作家，蔡珠兒與謝忠道的文字作品與兩位作家的訪談資料，來詮釋經驗轉化為文字的脈絡，梳理經驗、身體感以及書寫之間的關係。本文的研究結果為，第一，書寫並非只是由「心」而完成的活動，也涉及「身體」的角色。第二，書寫並非是文字單純對應經驗的表徵過程，而是重新創造的過程，經驗、身體感與文字三者彼此相互作用，在書寫之下連動與共生。第三，本文以飲食書寫來關照書寫活動，重新揭示「書寫」的本質。最後，本文認為體現取徑可作為文學評論的全新視角，並以此對飲食書寫的寫作策略提出相關建議。 / The article explores how does a writer transform ordinary experiences into written languages, and how does he vividly express diet experiences that are beyond expressions. Based on these, this article tries to answer a sophisticated question about the relationship between experiences and languages. Taking the embodied approach to study contemporary food writing, this article discovers the context of experiences transforming into written languages, with representative written works and interviews by two writers, Jewel, Tsai and Chung-Tao, Hsieh. Also, with these materials, I explain the dynamic relationship among experience, bodily feeling and written language. The findings of this research include three points. First, writing activity is affected not only by human mind, but also by human body. Second, writing is not the simple process that languages represent experiences, however, it is the creative process that experiences, bodily feeling and languages interplay each other. Third, this article redefines the essence of writing. Especially, I think that the embodied approach is likely to be a method of literary criticism. On the basis of this approach, I suggest some writing strategies about the contemporary food writing.

京都大学 / 0048 / 新制・論文博士 / 博士(農学) / 乙第12934号 / 論農博第2814号 / 新制||農||1033(附属図書館) / 学位論文||H27||N4893(農学部図書室) / 32144 / 京都大学農学研究科生物資源経済学専攻 / (主査)教授 足立 芳宏, 准教授 秋津 元輝, 教授 栗山 浩一 / 学位規則第4条第2項該当 / Doctor of Agricultural Science / Kyoto University / DFAM

京都大学 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(地域研究) / 甲第24723号 / 地博第315号 / 新制||地||122(附属図書館) / 京都大学大学院アジア・アフリカ地域研究研究科アフリカ地域研究専攻 / (主査)教授 伊谷 樹一, 教授 山越 言, 教授 大山 修一, 准教授 佐藤 宏樹 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Area Studies / Kyoto University / DGAM