This thesis examines how exclusive women's magazines readers approach the category of luxury, their relationship with products announced in these magazines and whether the feeling of luxury, aroused by such magazines, is affiliated with a certain social class. This thesis also focuses on question whether these readers regard physisal atractiveness as a sign of social status. The theoretical part of this thesis describes several concepts which are important in the context of media studies: social constructivism, the process of understanding media effects, the conception of uses and gratification and the role of mass media in the socialization process. This part further elaborates on exclusive women's magazines, conceptions of lifestyle, luxury, fashion and its importance for identity construction. The methodological part introduces the methodology of the analysis and the analysis itself. The sample used for this analysis was composed of ten respondents which were subjected to an in-depth interview. Each interview also included reception analysis. The following chapters describe the results of this analysis.

Since the improved people’s living standard, luxury buying has increasingly spread in popularity, especially in developing countries. Conspicuous consumption has resulted in this luxury buying among consumers. This mentality leads to consumers to achieve their own goal through luxury goods, such as reflecting their status, showing the uniqueness and so on. In order to buy their favorite luxury goods, consumers try different channels and overseas buying is the main channel for them. Under this situation, China as the second-biggest luxury market, the demand for overseas luxury among Chinese consumer has credit raised. It is therefore important for conducting consumer behavior research to analyze this phenomenon and identify corresponding factors that lead consumers buying luxury abroad. The purpose of the research is to understand the phenomenon of the consumers buying luxury goods overseas and to identify the corresponding factor for the luxury shop or the company which could conduct managerial implication to encourage consumers buying domestically. Since the improved people’s living standard, luxury buying has increasingly spread in popularity, especially in developing countries. Conspicuous consumption has resulted in this luxury buying among consumers. This mentality leads to consumers to achieve their own goal through luxury goods, such as reflecting their status, showing the uniqueness and so on. In order to buy their favorite luxury goods, consumers try different channels and overseas buying is the main channel for them. Under this situation, China as the second-biggest luxury market, the demand for overseas luxury among Chinese consumer has credit raised. It is therefore important for conducting consumer behavior research to analyze this phenomenon and identify corresponding factors that lead consumers buying luxury abroad. The purpose of the research is to understand the phenomenon of the consumers buying luxury goods overseas and to identify the corresponding factor for the luxury shop or the company which could conduct managerial implication to encourage consumers buying domestically.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-15T19:25:47Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Luciana Pianaro.pdf: 2132470 bytes, checksum: 4c550c74dc6caed06610f3cde838a256 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-05-03 / This study focuses in the identification of the marketing strategies used by companies in the luxury market of clothing and accessories of international brands that are consolidated in the Brazilian market. The objectives of this research are getting to know the vision of the executives about the concepts and features of luxury goods, especially the brands that these products represent; understand the behavior of their customers; identify the practices of the marketing mix; and to know what the competition in this sector is like. The research, of a qualitative nature, utilized a nonprobabilistic sample of seven marketing executives of seven different companies in the segment. Techniques of content analysis were applied to the treatment and analysis of the data, based in the transcriptions ipsis litteris of the semi-structured interviews, which were recorded in audio format. The results point to similar views about luxury products and brands, each brand having a typical consumer. Regarding the marketing strategies, it was possible to verify a main concern in maintaining the brand intact instead of increasing its market-share. The activities of the marketing mix obey the rules established by the brand s head offices outside of the country, leaving no margin to innovate from its standard, in order not to compromise the international image of the brand. The importance and growing of accessories sales to the brands were noticed, since they allow an increase of the aspiring customer base of the brand. Amongst the relevant findings, one of them was the use of payment through installments and the good quality service of the sellers in relation to other countries. Another interesting finding was the fact that all the researched brands consider only other brands that sell similar products as competitors, not recognizing the competition of any national brand. / Esta dissertação trata da identificação das estratégias de marketing utilizadas pelas empresas do segmento de roupas e acessórios de luxo cujas marcas são internacionais e consolidadas no mercado brasileiro. Os objetivos da pesquisa que a fundamentaram foram os de conhecer a visão dos executivos sobre conceitos e atributos de produtos de luxo e em especial das marcas que representavam; entender o comportamento de consumo dos seus clientes; identificar as práticas do composto de marketing; e por fim conhecer como se configura a competição nesse setor. A pesquisa, de natureza exploratória qualitativa utilizou uma amostra não probabilística composta por sete executivos de marketing de sete empresas desse segmento. Para o tratamento e a análise dos dados foram aplicadas técnicas de análise de conteúdo, com base na transcrição ipsis litteris dos depoimentos dos entrevistados gravados em áudio, obtidos por meio de um roteiro padrão semiestruturado. Os resultados apontaram visões similares sobre produtos e marcas de luxo, sendo que cada marca possui um consumidor típico. Sobre as estratégias de marketing verificou-se uma preocupação maior em zelar pela marca do que aumentar market-share. As atividades do composto de marketing obedecem às regras estabelecidas pelas matrizes das marcas fora do país, não deixando margens para se inovar muito além do seu padrão de forma a não comprometer a imagem internacional da marca. Percebeu-se um crescimento das vendas e importância dos acessórios para as marcas, pois estes permitem aumentar a base de clientes aspirantes a consumidores da marca. Entre as constatações relevantes, uma delas foi a política do parcelamento das compras e a do bom atendimento dos vendedores em relação a práticas de outros países. Outra constatação que se ressalta foi o fato de que todas as marcas pesquisadas consideram concorrentes apenas aquelas que vendem produtos similares, não reconhecendo a concorrência de nenhuma marca nacional.

以往高級精品只有貴族階級才有權利配帶。時至今日，中產階級消費者如一般上班族亦開始購買精品，使得人們對於精品的消費投入逐年增加。法國的精品產業靠著出口高級時裝、首飾、化妝品等精品，每年為法國政府帶來豐沛的外匯收入。除此之外，精品產業與其他同為景氣循環產業相比，復甦力道實為有過之而無不及；因此，精品產業之高獲利成長力與強勁復甦力道成為許多其他產業所探究及效法的對象。 現存精品相關文獻鮮少文獻探討精品創新相關議題，而在探討精品消費行為的研究中，除了探討精品消費動機與知覺價值外，並未進一步探討精品新產品隨著時間的擴散，消費者購買精品之動機與消費者特性是否產生變化。因此，本研究擬採用過往多半用於高科技產業之創新擴散理論，並以精品產業龍頭A精品公司為例，試圖探討精品新產品之擴散模式為何；另外，本研究除了探討客觀時間之擴散模式，亦針對精品具有較強烈之社會影響特性，亦加入同儕情境，更深入了解主觀時間的擴散模式。最後，本研究也會針對早期精品消費者與晚期精品消費者所注重的精品知覺價值是否有所不同的現象進行研究。 由量化問卷調查與質化深度訪談之綜合分析，本研究發現：(1)精品新產品擴散模式屬於Bass模型，所有潛在的精品消費者皆可分為受到廣告影響的創新者或口碑影響模仿者兩類；(2)精品新產品擴散模式由客觀因素與主觀因素共同建構而成，除了將採用者依客觀時間分為早期與晚期，本研究另外提出客觀早期的模仿者(即主觀落後者)與客觀晚期的創新者(即主觀創新者)；(3)精品知覺價值類型與客觀購買時間的先後並無顯著差異；(4)「撞包」顧慮是由於挑剔心態與跟隨心態並存的現象，對消費者的購買決策並無實際影響力。 / Before long, only blue blood has the right to possess luxury goods. Nowadays, middle class also starts to buy luxury goods, which increases the yearly consumption of luxury goods. By exporting high class garments, accessories, make-ups and so on, luxury good industry in France yields immeasurable foreign exchange income to French goverment. Besides, the strength of recovery in luxury goods industry is much stronger than other business-cycle industries. Therefore, with high-profit and strong recovery, luxury goods industry become the benchmark of other industries. Among the existing literatures of luxury goods, few literatures discuss issues related to the innovation of luxury goods. And in the researches of luxury-goods consumer behaviors, in addition to exploring the consumer motivations and perceived values, the changes or not of consumer characteristics and motivations with time-spreading lacks further probes. Thus, based on the theory of diffusion of innovations that mostly applied to high-technology industry, this study tries to explore the new product diffusion model of luxury goods in the case of a leading luxury brand A. Moreover, owing to stronger social influencs that luxury goods characteristic of, this study not only discussing the real time periods, but also deeply look into peer sithations in order to understand the diffusion model in subjective time periods. At last, this study will explore the differences of perceived values between early adoptors and late adoptors. Under comprehensively analysis from qnantative Questionnaire surveys and in-depth interviews, findings are as followed. (1)The new product diffusion model of luxury goods is highly close to Bass model. All potential luxury-goods customers can be divided to advertisement-influenced innovators and word-of-mouth-influenced imitators. (2)New product diffusion model of luxury goods is constructed by objective factor and subjective factors. In addition to classifying adoptors into early and late according the real time period, this study proposes other classifications: objectively early imitators (subjective followers) and objectlvely late innovators (subjective innovators). (3)Perceived value of luxury goods would not significantly sway with the objective doption time. (4)The fear of having the same bag with others results from the coexisting of Snob effect and Bandwagon effect, which has no actual influences on consumption decisions.

隨著全球化的浪潮、亞洲國家的經濟發展，時尚與精品產業在亞洲市場的發展已經漸趨成熟，紛紛以設立子公司或合資的方式營運，這也導致以代理國外品牌在台灣銷售的代理商的生存空間受到了壓縮，本研究透過探討在台灣代理時尚與精品品牌的代理商與品牌商國際合作關係時，如何增加績效，一方面降低代理權被取消的風險，加強雙方合作的關係，一方面發展代理商的核心價值，追求成功的商業模式。 在研究方法上採用個案研究法（Case study），透過次集資料的搜集，包括了產業的介紹和回顧了國際進入策略、交易成本理論和代理理論的相關文獻，佐以個案公司訪談，探討如何提升代理商的績效，分析結果後歸納提出命題。 本研究整理了七個命題如下，代理商可以透過以下方法強化績效： 1. 代理商行銷能力越強。 2. 代理商的財務能力及規模越大。 3. 代理商越有優良的代理績效與信用。 4. 代理商與品牌商的非正式“關係”經營的越成功。 5. 代理商發展代理商專屬的通路品牌越成功。 6. 代理商對於品牌VIP顧客關係的經營、維持越成功。 7. 代理商代理品牌數越多，越能強化代理商的績效。 如此一來，在國際代理關係中不再扮演被動角色，而是能主動尋找機會，有效降低經營的風險且強化代理商的核心價值。 / Due to the globalization and the economic development in Asian countries, the market performances of fashion and luxury brands are boosting in recent years. Many brands choose to open their own branches in Asian countries rather than find a local agent. Local agents help oversea manufactures or brands to distribute the products in local markets, but foreign manufactures often viewed agent contracts as a temporary entering strategy. This is becoming a crucial threat for the agents. How agents strength their performance in order to build their own competitive advantage? This study aims to address this issue. I define the fashion and luxury goods industry by introducing the market segmentation and business models within the industry. And then we reviewed the literature based on international entry strategy, transaction cost theory, and agency theory. Based on the literature, we conducted interviews with five Taiwanese agents in fashion and luxury sectors to discover this thesis with seven hypothesizes. By these seven hypothesis agents can improve the performance: 1. The agent should develop the brand building marketing skill. 2. The agent should enhance financial ability and expand capital size. 3. The agent should build up a better credits and reputation. 4. The agent should develop better “Guanxi” in order to strength the performance. 5. The agent should build it’s own distribution channel brand. 6. The agent should foster the relationship with VIP customers. 7. The agent should represent more brands.

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近年社群網站Facebook成為品牌宣傳的新渠道，不同地域、年齡、社會階層或消費水準的人都可以不受實體店面的侷限，透過朋友的分享輕鬆接觸到各時尚精品品牌的資訊。於是精品品牌如何在社群人際間的傳遞過程掌握其品牌形象，還有後續構成的品牌效果是本研究欲探討的重點。 本研究以自我一致性、社會比較的角度切入，輔以平衡理論的觀點進一步檢視消費者觀看社群媒體中的朋友分享貼文是否受到品牌、朋友時尚形象與理想自我一致性高低程度不同而影響其品牌態度與購買意願。 本研究以實驗法進行，研究結果如下： 一、消費者在Facebook動態中看到時尚品牌的朋友品牌分享貼文後，品牌形象與消費者理想自我一致高會比一致低，產生更正面的品牌態度，但對購買意願無顯著影響。 二、知覺品質中介「品牌形象與理想自我一致性」對品牌態度的影響; 但對購買意願無中介效果。 三、 「朋友時尚形象與理想自我形象一致性」高低並不會影響品牌與消費者理想自我形象一致性高低對品牌態度。

Made available in DSpace on 2010-04-20T20:14:57Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 61070100629.pdf: 39793 bytes, checksum: fe00be3f55de5409c675f0284098e467 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-12-21T00:00:00Z / O luxo pressupõe uma hierarquia social e a moda serve como ferramenta para aplicação desta distinção. A maneira como a pessoa se veste reflete a sua personalidade, posição econômica e social. A posse de bens de luxo serve para diferenciá-la daqueles que não podem consumi-los e a marca, como referência para o usuário. A transformação das marcas de moda de luxo de pequenos negócios familiares para empresas com presença mundial, aumentou o nível de competitividade entre elas, levando-as a ampliação dos seus mercados. O Brasil, junto a outros países emergentes, figura como mercado chave neste crescimento. O mercado de luxo vem despertando a atenção do meio acadêmico. A presente dissertação tem o objetivo de estudar a identidade e a imagem da Louis Vuitton, marca líder deste mercado no mundo, e assim contribuir para o avanço deste estudo. O estudo valeu-se de pesquisa exploratória qualitativa e utilizou uma amostra de profissionais e consumidores de marcas de moda de luxo, com três fontes de evidência: consulta a publicações relacionadas ao tema, entrevistas em profundidade e observação sistemática. Os resultados apontam para características que definem o comportamento do consumidor de luxo em relação às marcas de moda de luxo internacionais e os fatores que os levam a preferi-las ou rejeitá-las. Também evidencia diferenças entre a identidade e a imagem da Louis Vuitton no Brasil, mercado relativamente jovem em relação ao consumo de luxo. / Luxury stands for social hierarchy and fashion can be used as the too1 to reach this social distinction. The way a person is dressed reflects its personality and social and economical position. Owning luxury goods differentiates the ones who can afford it of those who cannot and the brand works as a reference for the user. The luxury fashion brands changed from small familiar companies to enterprises with global presence, which increased the competition level between them. and forced them to expand their markets. Brazil. along with other emerging countries, has become a key market for this expansion. The luxury market is getting more attention among marketing researchers. This research has the goal of studying the identity and image of Louis Vuitton, the luxury market leading brand, contributing for studies of this subject. The research was based on a qualitative approach, using three sources of information: desk research, in-depth interviews with professionals and consumers of luxury fashion brands, and observation. The results point to facts that lead consumers to choose a brand or reject it. The research unveiled a difference between Louis Vuitton's identity and image. due to Brazilian's market young stage on luxury consumption.

Cette thèse analyse les stratégies des firmes multinationales dans leurs différentes dimensions et évalue leur effet sur les consommateurs et travailleurs. Les essaies consécutifs s'intéressent aux choix d'expansion des FMNs, leur décision de délocalisation de production, leurs stratégies de l'investissement direct à l'étranger (IDE) au niveau agrégé, ainsi que les pratiques de la discrimination de prix sur les marchés aux fortes inégalités de revenu. / This thesis examines both theoretically and empirically strategies of multinational firms in their various dimensions and evaluates their impact on consumers and workers. The following essays look at MNEs' product expansion choices, their production localization decisions, foreign direct investment strategies (FOI) at the aggregate level and, finally, price discrimination practices on more unequal markets.

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