Bakgrunden till rapporten var att det företag som medverkat i studien ville utveckla ett grundmönster för damkappor. Syftet med arbetet blev därför att utarbeta ett grundmönster med två ärmtyper som graderas mellan storlek 32-50, samt konstruera en kappmodell från samma grund. Utöver detta skulle även detaljkonstruktioner och specifikationer utformas. Frågeställningarna som styrde arbetet kretsade därför kring hur man på bästa sätt tar fram detta.All konstruktion utfördes i Lectra´s Modaris. För att ta fram grundmönstret jämfördes två arbetssätt för att sedan välja en av de grunder som konstruerats. Efter detta gjordes nödvändiga ändringar utifrån avprovningar. Kappmodellen utarbetades genom kompletterande detaljkonstruktioner utifrån grundmönstret. Även de fristående detaljkonstruktionerna utformades på samma sätt. Specifikationerna togs fram i företagets PDM-system Quest PDM.Passformen hos grundmönstret blev god, ett mindre balansfel kan dock finnas kvar. Kappmodellen som syddes upp av produktionskontoret i Litauen motsvarade kraven. Ståkragen bland detaljkonstruktionerna kunde förbättrats, annars uppfyller även dessa konstruktioner kraven.Specifikationerna från Quest PDM visade krav och instruktioner tydligt. Dock var det problematiskt att använda flera olika ritprogram inom systemet.The background for this report was that the company cooperating with me wanted to develop a basic pattern for women´s coats. The purpose of this study was to construct a basic pattern with two types of sleeves to be graded in the sizes 32-50 and use the basic pattern to create a women´s coat. Beside this, coat details and product specifications should be produced.Lectra´s CAD-program Modaris is used for pattern construction. To create the basic pattern two different construction methods was used, and one of them chosen for further developing. The coat was developed from the basic pattern through additional constructions. The separate detail construktions was created be the same method. The companys PDM system Quest PDM was used to form the product specifications.The fit of the basic pattern was good, a minor balance fault might still remain. The coat sewn by the companys production office in Lithuenia met the requirements. The standing straight collar could be further improved, the other detail constructions lived up to the standars.The product specifications from Quest PDM showed the instructions and demands clearly. Unfortunately there was a problem using different illustration software within the system. / Program: Designteknikerutbildningen

Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-12T20:17:55Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 114554.pdf: 2411416 bytes, checksum: 7deac21d1dda485fb5e01c4f440d5fbe (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013-12-18 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The flat cutting pattern making, shown on books and other teaching materials, as handouts, are configured on a way where guidelines are given to the reader so he or she must follow all the steps to design the diagram, which will give the patterns. However, in the flat cutting pattern making teaching, it is possible to notice the recurrence of errors on the part by the students in certain actions that may be related to the way the authors set out the content. In this sense, the present work is developed, aiming to verify what are the discontinuities of the ergonomic layout of the standard pattern blocks from two authors of different epochs , Brandão (1967 ) and Duarte & Saggese (2008 ), through Nielsen heuristics (1993). The research also aims to identify opportunities for pointing improvements to the usability of the pattern making. In this paper, the method of indirect observation is used, applying semi-structured interviews with pattern making teachers as a tool for data collection. Finally, a comparative study between the two ergonomic analysis brings relevant information to the solution of the problem raised. The results obtained revealed that both authors present ergonomic discontinuities in their standard pattern blocks, each relating to a criterion of usability, and that can lead to problems of interaction between reader and book. / Os traçados da modelagem plana do vestuário, presentes em livros e demais materiais didáticos, como apostilas, são configurados de modo textual, em que orientações são dadas ao leitor a fim de que ele execute todas as etapas do diagrama, o qual dará origem aos moldes. No entanto, no ensino da modelagem, percebe-se a recorrência de erros por parte dos alunos em determinadas ações e que podem estar relacionadas com o modo como os autores expõem o conteúdo. É neste sentido que o presente trabalho se desenvolve, tendo por objetivo verificar quais são as desconformidades ergonômicas do traçado da base da frente da blusa de dois autores de épocas distintas, Brandão (1967) e Duarte e Saggese (2008), através das heurísticas de Nielsen (1993). A pesquisa também se propõe a identificar oportunidades de melhorias desses traçados para a usabilidade. No presente trabalho, utiliza-se o método de observação indireta, aplicando-se entrevista semi-estruturada com professores de modelagem como instrumento de coleta de dados. E, por fim, o estudo comparativo entre as duas análises ergonômicas traz informações pertinentes para a solução do problema levantado. O resultado encontrado revela que ambos os autores apresentam desconformidades ergonômicas nos seus traçados, cada uma relativa a um critério de usabilidade, e que podem levar a problemas de interação entre leitor e livro.

Syftet med studien är att försöka lösa passformsproblem på trikåmodeller till dam som har en förlängd axel. Studien skrivs i samarbete med ett stort svenskt klädföretag och undersöker ett problem som företaget själva har identifierat. Problemet gäller passformen på några av företagets trikåmodeller till dam som alla har en förlängd axel och en lösare passform. Passformsproblemen som trikåmodellerna upplevs ha uppstår vid just axeln, ärmhålet och överärmsvidden. Inom forskning och litteratur saknas det information kring passformsproblem och åtgärder vid konstruktion av trikåplagg med en förlängd axel. I dagsläget har inte företaget tid att själva testa och utveckla trikåmodellerna och studien har därför fokuserat på att försöka lösa problemet med passformen åt dem. För att uppnå syftet har en experimentell metod använts. Denna har utförts via digital mönsterkonstruktion, uppsömnad av provplagg och verifierats genom avprovningar på provpersoner och på provdocka. Resultatet av studien visar att en medel- till hög ärmkulle behövs till plagg med en förlängd axel för att uppnå en god passform på ärmen och kring ärmhålet. / The purpose of the study is to try to solve fit problems on women’s jersey models with a dropped shoulder. The study is written in collaboration with a large Swedish clothing company and investigates a problem that the company itself has identified. The problem concerns the fit of some of the company's jersey sweaters for ladies, each with a dropped shoulder and a looser fit. The fit problems that the jersey models are having occurred at the shoulder, the armhole and bicep. In research and literature there is no information about fitting problems and how to adjust the construction of jersey garments with a dropped shoulder. At present, the company does not have time to test and develop the jersey models, and the study has therefore focused on trying to solve the problem of the fit for them. To achieve the aim, an experimental method has been used. This has been done through CAD-based pattern construction, sewing test prototypes and verified by fittings on human fitting models and on a dummy. The result of the study shows that a medium to high sleeve crown is needed for clothes with an extended shoulder to achieve good fit on the sleeve and around the armhole.

Denna studie tas fram i samband med ett mindre modeföretag inom damkonfektion. Företaget har haft återkommande problem med passformen av deras viskosklänning. Syftet med studien är att undersöka viskosmaterialets påverkan efter tvätt på passform så som balans, rörelsevidd, längd och plaggs mått. Viskos är ett av de finaste textilmaterialet för sömnad av klänningar på grund av sin fina glans, snyggt fall och höga absorberande egenskaper. Däremot har viskosmaterial tendensen att förlora styrkan när det är vått, vilket händer att plagget krymper efter tvätt. Studien utförs genom att jämföra tre framtagningsprocessen av en klänning för att få den bästa passformen och önskade plaggmått. För prototyperna A och B används samma mönsterkonstruktion, förutom för prototyp B tvättas viskos tyget i förhand. Medans för prototyp C tvättades med tygprov och krympningen beräknades i cm, mönsterkonstruktioner justerades med att addera resultatet av krympningen. Klänningarna syddes av samma viskostyg, provades på en person i storlek Medium och tog mått på klänningarna både före och efter tvättning. Prototyp C resultatet visades att klänningen har krympt till den bästa passformen och uppfyller önskade plaggmåtten i jämförelse med prototyperna A och B. I Studien visades att plagg som är sytt i viskosmaterial förändas både i passform och mått efter tvätt. Före tvätt av viskosmaterial innan tillskärning kommer inte att garantera att det uppsydda plagget inte krympa eller att plaggen behåller sitt mått efter tvättning. Ändringen i mönsterkonstruktion ger bättre resultat. / This study is developed in collaboration with a small company that works with women's clothing. The company has had recurring problems with the fit of their viscose dress. The purpose of the study is to analyze the effect of the viscose material shrinkage after laundering on the fit of the garment such as balance, ease, length and the garment dimension. Viscose is one of the finest textile materials for dresses sewing because of its properties such as it’s fine shine, drapes well and it have high absorbent. In contrast, viscose material tends to lose strength when wet, which affects garment fit due to viscoses shrinkage after laundering. The study is performed through comparing of three production processes of a dress to get the best fit and dimensions. For sample A and B, the same pattern construction is used, except for sample B, the viscose fabric was pre-washed in advance. While for sample C fabric samples was washed and the number of shrinkage is calculated . Pattern construction was adjusted by adding the results of shrinkage . The three sample dresses were sewn with the same viscose fabric, and the fit were tasted by one person in size Medium .The dress samples were measured both before and after laundering. The result of prototype C showed that the dress has shrunk to the best fit and meets the desired garment sizes in comparison with prototypes A and B. The study showed that garments that are sewn in viscose material change both in fit and size after washing. Washing viscose material before cutting will not ensure that the sewn garment will not shrink or that the garments will retain its dimension after washing. The change in pattern design gives better results.

Studien görs i samarbete med ett företag som jobbar med bl a. barnoveraller. Företaget gör ingen egen mönsterkonstruktion, utan köper denna tjänst av leverantören. Materialet leverantören får av företaget är en måttlista, men när olika leverantörer sytt upp prover åt dem har de fått varierande passform, trots att overallerna hållit samma mått. Författarna har därför jobbat på ett sätt att systematisera måttlistan för att kunna reproducera den aktuella passformen. Detta har gjorts genom att försöka återskapa företagets overall med hjälp av måttlistan och därefter utvärderat vad som skulle göra måttlistan mer tydlig och praktisk för leverantörerna. Utvecklingen av måttlistan har innefattat namn på mått, måttordning, samt skiss och placering av mått. Avgörande faktorer för passformen på barnoverallen har visat sig vara luvan, måttet axel till gren, midjeresår, knävidd och stussens position. En slutlig måttlista har tagits fram som ett förslag på ett sätt för företag utan egen mönsterkonstruktion att systematisera passformen. / The study is being conducted in collaboration with a company that works with, among other things, children's overalls. The company does not make its own pattern design, but buys this service from the supplier. The material the supplier receives from the company is a measurement chart. However when different suppliers have sewn samples for them, they have been of varying fit, despite the fact that the overalls have kept the same dimensions. The authors have therefore worked to systematize the measurement chart in order to be able to reproduce the current fit. This has been done by trying to recreate the company's overalls using the measurement chart and then evaluating what would make the measurement chart clearer and more practical for the suppliers. The development of the measurement chart has included names of measurements, measurement order, and sketch and placement of measurements. Key factors for the fit of the children's overalls have proven to be the hood, shoulder to crotch, waist elastic, knee width and the placement of the seat. A final measurement chart has been developed as a proposal to help companies who prefer full package production.

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Dagens textil- och modeindustri producerar stora mängder avfall och i produktionsfasen uppstår merparten av det vid tillskärning av mönsterdelar. FN har satt upp 17 globala mål för att främja en hållbar utveckling och mål nummer 12 fokuserar på att främja hållbar konsumtion och produktion. För att uppnå det är det därav relevant att utforska alternativ för att höja utnyttjandegraden av tyg vid tillskärningsstadiet inom konfektion. Studien utförs i samarbete med ett svenskt företag och undersöker hur enklare mönsterförändringar på en jacka kan påverka effektiviteten hos plaggets läggbild. Studien dokumenterar och analyserar resultatet av olika mönsterförändringar utförda på en jacka samtidigt som plaggets design behålls snarlik och sammanställer dess effekt på läggbildseffektiviteten samt tygåtgången. Tidigare forskning har fokuserat på effektivisering av läggbilder utan mönsterförändring alternativt mönsterkonstruktion baserad på idén om zero-waste pattern cutting vilket ämnat ett eliminera materialspill men inte minska tygåtgång. Rapportens fokus ligger vid effektivisering av läggbilder med hjälp av mönsterkonstruktion utifrån studiens aktuella plagg med ambitionen att uppnå materialbesparing. Studien presenterar åtta olika mönsterförändringar, dess effekter på tygåtgång och läggbildseffektivitet samt vilka parameter som bör tas hänsyn till vid omvandling av mönster för läggbildseffektivisering. / Today's textile and fashion industry produces large amounts of waste and in the production phase most of it arises when cutting pattern pieces. Goal number 12 of the UN's 17 Global Goals for Sustainable Development stands to promote sustainable consumption and production, and in order to achieve this, it is therefore relevant to explore alternatives for increasing the degree of utilization of fabric at the cutting stage in clothing production. The study is carried out in collaboration with a Swedish company and examines how simpler pattern changes on a jacket can affect the efficiency of the garment's lay plan. The study documents and analyzes the results of various pattern changes performed on a jacket while maintaining a similar design to that of the original garment and compiling its effect on the lay plans efficiency and fabric consumption. Previous research has focused on bettering the efficiency of lay plans without pattern change or pattern design based on the idea of zero-waste pattern cutting which aims to eliminate fabric waste but not cut down on fabric consumption. Focus of the report is on how to achieve higher efficiency in lay plans using pattern construction based on the study's chosen garment with the aim of saving fabric waste. The study presents eight different pattern changes, its effects on fabric consumption and lay plan efficiency and which parameters should be considered when transforming patterns for the purpose of increasing lay plan efficiency.

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A Tomografia de Processos é uma importante ferramenta para diversos setores da indústria. Tal importância vem da necessidade de obter informações sobre determinada propriedade física em regiões de complicado acesso, por exemplo, o interior de um duto. A tomografia é uma ferramenta muito versátil, podendo ser adaptada para investigar diversas propriedades físicas. Entre as diversas modalidades tomográficas está a elétrica, conhecida como Tomografia de Impedância Elétrica (EIT). A EIT pode ainda ser dividida em duas partes: Tomografia de Resistência Elétrica (ERT) e Tomografia de Capacitância Elétrica (ECT). Enquanto a ERT é capaz de distinguir materiais condutivos de não-condutivos, a ECT é capaz de diferenciar dois materiais não-condutivos pela sua permissividade elétrica. A modalidade de tomografia elétrica possui vantagens como: baixo tempo de aquisição, baixo custo e não-radioatividade. Os principais desafios enfrentados na tomografia elétrica são: a dependência da trajetória do campo em relação ao meio (efeito de campo mole) e a pouca quantidade de eletrodos disponı́veis para medições devido às dimensões dos mesmos. Em decorrência do efeito de campo mole, a soma da contribuição individual de cada pixel em uma região é diferente da contribuição real da região, em outras palavras, é um problema não-linear. Devido a pequena quantidade de eletrodos, em geral 8 ou 12, reconstruir uma imagem com resolução prática é um problema mal-posto. Muitos métodos foram propostos para contornar essas dificuldades, grande parte se baseia em um modelo linearizado do sistema e na resolução de um problema inverso. Neste trabalho é proposto um método de reconstrução de imagens com representação esparsa, no qual busca-se reconstruir uma imagem composta de poucos elementos de uma base redundante. Esses elementos são aprendidos a partir de sinais de treinamento e usados como entrada para um modelo de ECT. As respostas, em capacitância, desse modelo formam uma matriz de sensibilidade redundante. Tal matriz pode ser interpretada como uma linearização por partes do problema direto. Para validação desse algoritmo foram realizados experimentos em escoamentos bifásicos ar-água. Os sinais de treinamento foram obtidos com o uso de um sensor de ECT em conjunto com um sensor wire-mesh capacitivo. Os resultados obtidos demonstram a capacidade do método proposto em reconstruir imagens a partir de 8 medições de capacitâncias. As imagens reconstruı́das apresentam melhores resultados, segundo diferentes métricas, quando comparados a outros métodos com representações esparsas. / Process Tomography is an important tool for many sectors of industry. Such importance comes from the necessity of obtaining knowledge of physical properties from hard reaching places, as the interior of a solid object or pipe. Tomography is a very versatile tool, it can be adapted for investigating different physical properties. Among the many tomographic modalities is the electrical, know as Electrical Impedance Tomography (EIT). The EIT can also be divided in two: Electrical Resistance Tomography (ERT) and Electrical Capacitance Tomography (ECT). While the ERT is capable of distinguishing conducting materials from non-conducting ones, the ECT is capable of distinguishing two non-conducting materials by their electrical permittivity. The electrical modality has advantages such as: low acquisition time, low cost and non-radioactive. The main challenges of electrical tomography are: dependency of the trajectory of the field in the medium (effect know as soft-field) and the low number of electrodes available for measurement due to their sizes. As a result of the soft-field effect, the sum of individual contributions of small discrete segments in a given region is different from the contribution of the entire region as one. In other words, the relation between the electrical property and the electrical measurements are non-linear. Due to the small number of measuring electrodes, commonly 8 or 12, reconstructing images with practical resolution is an ill-posed problem. In order to overcome these obstacles, many methods were proposed and the majority are based on the resolution of an inverse problem of a linear model. This work proposes a method of image reconstruction with sparse inducing regularization that seeks to obtain an image representation with only few elements of a redundant basis. The elements of this basis are obtained from training images and used as input of an ECT simulation. The output capacitances of the model make up the columns of a redundant sensitivity matrix. Such matrix can be viewed as a piecewise linearization of the direct problem. For validation purposes, experimental tests were conducted on two-phase flows (air-water). The training signals were obtained from an experiment with a capacitive wire-mesh sensor along with an ECT sensor. The results obtained show that the proposed method is capable of reconstructing images from a set of only 8 capacitance measurements. The reconstructed images show better results, according to different metrics, when compared to other methods that also use sparse representations.