This work focuses on exploring the early stage of garment production: where prototypes are regarded as ”incomplete” in relation to the desired result. Early prototypes carry unforeseen elements that are regarded as defects rather than desirable qualities, and are subsequently edited, adjusted and iterated into new prototypes until the desired result has been reached. This work wishes to emphasize the unforeseen elements present in the early prototypes, instead of merely disregarding them as undesirable qualities. By emphasizing common elements that are usually regarded as defects, this result of this project became a commercial yet experimental collection. I.e., the garments arguably kept their core commercial characteristics, making it easy for the observer to recognize and categorize the garments. However, upon a closer inspection, the defects arguably infused each respective garment with an appealing and interesting aesthetic. What this project has shown is that defects can be emphasized into desirable qualities, and that defects pose vast foundations for further exploration, ultimately challenging the industry’s current perception of defects.

Dentre as diversas formas de expressões artísticas, o presente trabalho tem seu foco no estudo da ópera, em especial na construção e performance dos trajes usados em cena. O maior desafio na construção desses trajes é assegurar as técnicas e os procedimentos adequados para o aprimoramento deste processo. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo propor diretrizes para a modelagem e construção de trajes de ópera, levando em consideração variáveis ergonômicas, de usabilidade e conforto. Para tanto, foram analisados os trajes do acervo do Theatro Municipal de São Paulo e realizadas entrevistas com profissionais da área. Desta forma, foi possível identificar recursos construtivos que favorecem aspectos de ergonomia, usabilidade e conforto. A análise dos trajes bem como as informações coletadas nas entrevistas, possibilitaram a definição de um conjunto de diretrizes para apoiar o trabalho de figurinistas, modelistas, costureiras, na construção de trajes, bem como cantores, atrizes e bailarinos em suas performances / Among many forms of artistic expressions, the present work has its focus on the study of opera, especially on development and performances of the costumes worn on stage. The biggest challenge on these costumes development is to ensure the techniques and proper procedures for the process improvement. The current work aims to propose guidelines for the pattern making and opera costumes development, considering ergonomic variables, usability and comfort. Therefore, the costumes from Theatro Municipal de São Paulo were analysed and interviews with field professionals were taken. Thus, it was possible to identify projected resources that benefit ergonomic aspects, usability and comfort. The costumes analysis as well as the interviews information made it possible to define the set of guidelines to support the work of costume designers, pattern makers, seamstress on costumes development, such as singers, actors, dancers on their performances

This practice-led thesis places archival research within the framework of a contemporary art practice and proposes an interpretive reading of tailoring patterns as informative documents and inspiring drawings in their own right. Conventionally, patterns are treated only as a means to an end, aiding garment production. It is rare for patterns to be analysed by contemporary dress historians for their contribution to history. This thesis will demonstrate how tailoring patterns are undervalued and neglected, and remain a hidden craft. This qualitative research is conducted in the archive in order to gain a deep understanding of a group of patterns – here military patterns – that in turn inspired an artistic and curatorial output. An archive of uniforms worn by officers of the British Raj held at the National Army Museum was identified for this research; these uniforms were closely examined, handled and drawn in situ. The drawings were placed next to military patterns from different sources and scrutinized using a case-study method. The analysis revealed that information could be derived from the patterns making them relevant in respect to an understanding of dress history. The archival research is further interpreted in art and curatorial practice in the second half of the thesis by suggesting that patterns are unique abstracted drawings of the human form, carrying with them not only the outline of the garment but also impressions of the body. A reflective approach to the practice illustrates how the archival research became the primary source materials to create romantic Love Garden sculptures. The researcher positions his own emerging practice at the blurring of fashion, art and curatorial practice; and articulates how other artists, practitioners and designers have responded to the pattern as an object and a drawing, producing work in the context of art, fashion and design. The thesis demonstrates that military patterns and the tailoring knowledge they comprise represent rich and rewarding source materials for producing contemporary artworks, and also vital historical documents in the context of dress history.

Denna studie tas fram i samarbete med ett stort svenskt modeföretag som har haft återkommande problem med balansen mellan fram och bak på dam-kavajer. Problemet uppstår oberoende av vilken leverantör som har tillverkat mönstret eller vilken provperson som provar plagget. Syftet med studien är att undersöka vad som orsakar balansfel mellan fram och bak i kavajer för dam och hur det kan åtgärdas. Studien undersöker olika konstruktioner från litteratur, som arbetas vidare med för att uppnå god passform. Den slutliga konstruktionen jämförs sedan med företagets kavaj som erhåller balansproblem för att se vilka åtgärder som bör göras på dessa kavajer. Studien utförs genom mönsterkonstruktion i ett CAD-program, uppsömnad av prototyper och slutligen avprovningar på en provdocka, tre provpersoner och virtuellt på en avatar i ett 3D- simuleringsprogram. Skillnaderna i passform mellan den obalanserade kavajen och den nya balanserade prototypen analyseras vid avprovningar. Resultatet visar ett kavaj-grundmönster där företagets återkommande balansproblem har korrigerats. Under studien framkommer det att balansproblemen mellan fram och bak hänger ihop med hur långt eller kort slaget är. Även axelsömmens lutning har stor betydelse för plaggets balans. / This study is developed in collaboration with a large Swedish fashion company that has had recurring problems with the balance between front and back of women's jackets. The problem arises regardless of which supplier has made the pattern or which test person is testing the garment. The purpose of the study is to investigate what causes balance problems between front and back of women’s jackets and how it can be corrected. The study examines various constructions from literature, which are further worked on to achieve a good fit. The final design is then compared to the company's jacket that receives balance problems to see what actions should be taken on these jackets. The study is performed through pattern design in a CAD program, then prototypes are being sewn. Finally they are tested on one dummy, three test persons and it is also tested virtual on an avatar in a 3D simulation program. The differences in fit between the unbalanced jacket and the new balanced prototype are analyzed during tests. The result shows a basic pattern of a jacket where the company's recurring balance problems have been corrected. During the study it appears that the balance problems between the front and the back are linked to how long or short the lapel is. The tilt of the shoulder seam is also of great importance for the garment's balance.

Denna studie undersöker hur trosmodellerna ”Slip”, ”Hipster” och ”Hotpant” påverkas av två olika graderingssätt. Det första alternativet är baserat på skillnadsintervaller som ett svenskt företag idag använder sig av. Medan andra alternativet är ett förslag från leverantören då dom anser att detta förslag skall vara bättre för modellerna. Skillnaderna mellan graderingarna är att sidhöjden minskas/ökas med 1.5 centimeter istället för 1 centimeter mellan storlekarna. Samt att ett mått för bakvidd införs på samtliga modeller där skillnadsintervallen är -/+ 1.5 centimeter mellan varje storlek.   För att få fram ett resultat har alla modeller konstruerats i ”Lectras” programvara ”Modaris” där konstruktionerna har utgått ifrån företagets plaggmåttlista. Samtliga modeller har graderats med hjälp av plaggmåttlistan. Därefter har justeringar gjorts för gradering två. Graderingarna har analyserats genom jämförelse i ”Lectras” programvara ”Kaledo Style”. Samt att trosorna syddes upp i storlek ”Extra Large” i de båda graderingssätten och provades på provdocka och provmodell.   Med detta som grund analyserades båda graderingarna för att nå fram till resultatet. Vilket resulterade i att ”Slip” inte gick att producera i gradering två och för de övriga två modellerna skulle en kombination av dessa två graderingar vara lämpligast då det fanns både negativ och positivt om de båda graderingarna för varje modell. / This study examines how three different pantie models Slip, Hipster and Hotpant affects of two types of grading. The first option is based on a grading that a Swedish company uses on these three models. The second option is based on a suggestion from the supplier. The differences is that side height is increased/decreased with 1.5 centimeters instead of 1 and a measure for back width is added and graded with -/+ 1.5 centimeters.   The method that is used is construction of all models where made in Lectras Modaris. The construction is based on the garment measurement list from the company. All the models where graded in sizes Extra Small to Extra Large. The grading’s where analyzed in Lectras Kaledo Style. Then the panties where sewn in size Extra Large and tested on dummy and model The conclusion is that the slip could not be produced in the second option. While the best grading of the two other models would be best to combine the first and second option to reach the ultimate fit.

Dentre as diversas formas de expressões artísticas, o presente trabalho tem seu foco no estudo da ópera, em especial na construção e performance dos trajes usados em cena. O maior desafio na construção desses trajes é assegurar as técnicas e os procedimentos adequados para o aprimoramento deste processo. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo propor diretrizes para a modelagem e construção de trajes de ópera, levando em consideração variáveis ergonômicas, de usabilidade e conforto. Para tanto, foram analisados os trajes do acervo do Theatro Municipal de São Paulo e realizadas entrevistas com profissionais da área. Desta forma, foi possível identificar recursos construtivos que favorecem aspectos de ergonomia, usabilidade e conforto. A análise dos trajes bem como as informações coletadas nas entrevistas, possibilitaram a definição de um conjunto de diretrizes para apoiar o trabalho de figurinistas, modelistas, costureiras, na construção de trajes, bem como cantores, atrizes e bailarinos em suas performances / Among many forms of artistic expressions, the present work has its focus on the study of opera, especially on development and performances of the costumes worn on stage. The biggest challenge on these costumes development is to ensure the techniques and proper procedures for the process improvement. The current work aims to propose guidelines for the pattern making and opera costumes development, considering ergonomic variables, usability and comfort. Therefore, the costumes from Theatro Municipal de São Paulo were analysed and interviews with field professionals were taken. Thus, it was possible to identify projected resources that benefit ergonomic aspects, usability and comfort. The costumes analysis as well as the interviews information made it possible to define the set of guidelines to support the work of costume designers, pattern makers, seamstress on costumes development, such as singers, actors, dancers on their performances

This study examines how to make trend fashion based ready-to-wear apparels with no fabric waste in the cutting phase through geometric pattern-making. To work with sustainability through geometrical pattern-making in construction, within the context of commercial fashion. The fashion industry is one of the world's top polluters. Several million tonnes of textile ends up in landfills all over the world every year, landfills are overwhelmed and that has a great impact on the environment. The purpose of this study is to investigate how the method of geometric pattern making can have a commercial value in sustainability. How it can bring benefits within fashion design to become more sustainable, and thus help tackle issues in relation to fabric waste in garment production. Significantly, the project discusses if there can be a way of making commercial clothes more sustainable through geometric pattern-making so no fabric is wasted when it is being cut. The work proposes potential solutions and expressions through this chosen methodology.

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Uppsatsen innehåller en förstudie av ärmhålskonstruktioner: isatt ärm och raglanärm, för målgrupperna herr och dam. Dessa konstruerades, analyserades och avprovades i Lectra (2013) Modaris 3D prototyping. Ärmhålskonstruktionernas passform och konstruktion jämfördes utifrån bestämda parametrar och med hjälp av ett avprovningsprotokoll med poängsystem. De ärmhålskonstruktionerna med högst poäng låg till grund vid skapandet av ett bibliotek med grundmönster anpassade för funktionsplagg. Grundmönstren kommer vara användbara för företaget i framtiden och underlätta företagets arbete vid framtagning av nya modeller. Uppsatsen omfattar även framtagningen av dessa grundmönster. Alla konstruktionerna skapades i Lectra (2015) Modaris och avprovningarna utfördes i Lectra (2013) Modaris 3D prototyping, samt i verkligheten. Resultatet redovisar avprovningarna, en rangordning av vilka ärmhålskonstruktioner som har bäst passform, samt tillvägagångsättet vid konstruktion av dem fyra grundmönstren. Slutsatsen av studien var att alla konstruktioner från befintlig litteratur kräver justeringar för att uppnå god passform. En god passform av en raglanärm uppnås när brytningspunkten på framstycket ligger vid 1/3 av ärmhålets sträcka och bakstyckets brytningspunkt ligger vid 2/5, samt när framstyckets raglansöm har en djupare kurva än bakstyckets. Bäst passform för isatt ärm uppnås när framstyckets ärmhål har en rundare, djupare form jämfört med bakstyckets. Slutsatsen visar att det finns tydliga skillnader mellan herr- och damkonstruktionerna. / The paper contains a study of sleeve constructions for set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves for the target groups, men and women. These were constructed and analyzed in Lectra (2015) Modaris 3D prototyping. The sleeves fit and construction was compared on specific parameters and using a point system with and protocol. The sleeve constructions with highest points then formed the basis for the creation of a library of basic patterns, adapted for functional garments. These will be useful for the company in the future and when developing new models. The paper also includes the development of these basic patterns. All constructions was created in Lectra (2015) Modaris and fitting was performed in Lectra (2013) Modaris 3D prototyping, and in reality. The result of this study reports a ranking of the sleeve constructions based the best fit, and the approach in the construction of these four basic patterns. The conclusion of the study was that all constructions from existing literature require adjustments to achieve good fit. The conclusion is that a good fit of a raglan sleeve is achieved when the breaking point on the front piece is places at 1/3 of the armhole line and when the breaking point on the back piece is places at 2/5. The front piece raglan seam requires a deeper curve than the back piece. Best fit for set-in sleeves is achieved when the front piece armhole has a deeper curved line, compared to the back piece. The conclusion shows that there are clear differences between men and women's sleeve constructions.

Den här uppsatsen behandlar ett problem som identifierats bland små till medelstora svenska modeföretag: det stora beroendet av outsourcade produktionsagenter och fullprisproducenter. Syftet med uppsatsen är att identifiera de förutsättningar och hinder dessa modeföretag kan stöta på när de försöker integrera dessa utlagda kompetenser till en intern lösning. Genom detta hoppas författarna kunna tillföra nya perspektiv för befattningshavare som är intresserade av att omstrukturera sin nuvarande inköpsmodell.De metoder som använts för att samla in det teoretiska och empiriska underlaget var skrivbordsstudier, såväl som strukturerade och ostrukturerade djupintervjuer med grundaren av ett svenskt jeansföretag, samt en anställd på en stor svensk modekedjas inköpsavdelning.Resultaten understryker den strategiska betydelsen för växande modeföretag att äga sin inköpsfunktion. Genom att äga kompetenserna för mönsterkonstruktion och inköp kan företag minska sitt beroende av externa organisationer och öka flexibiliteten i sin produktutvecklingsprocess. De hinder som identifierats utgörs bland annat av en ökad affärsrisk under övergången till en intern inköpsavdelning till följd av avsiktliga störningar i värdekedjan av producenterna, samt de extra kostnaderna för det ökade administrativa arbetet.This essay focuses on a problem identified among small to mid sized Swedish fashion companies: the large dependence on out sourced production agencies and full price producers. The purpose of the essay is to identify the prerequisites and obstacles these fashion companies might encounter whilst trying to incorporate the out sourced competencies into an in-house solution. By this, the authors hope to add new perspectives to executives interested in restructuring their current buying function.The methods used to gather theoretical and empirical material were desk studies as well as structured and unstructured in-depth interviews with the founder of a Swedish denim fashion company, and an employee at a large Swedish fashion retailer’s buying department.The findings stress the strategic importance of owning the competence of the buying function for growing fashion companies. By owning the competencies of pattern-making and a formalised buying function the companies can weaken their dependence on external organisations and add to their product development process flexibility. Among the obstacles identified are a increased business risk during the transition to an internal buying function caused by deliberate disruption of the supply chain by the producers and the extra costs of the increased administrative work. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen