This thesis explores the implications of chinoiserie, or Western creations of Chinese-style decorative arts, upon an eighteenth century colonial American audience. Chinese products such as tea, porcelain, and silk, and goods such as furniture and wallpaper displaying Chinese motifs of distant exotic lands, had become popular commodities in Europe by the eighteenth century. The American colonists, who were primarily culturally British, thus developed a taste for chinoiserie fashions and wares via their European heritage. While most European countries had direct access to the China trade, colonial Americans were banned from any direct contact with the Orient by the British East India Company. They were relegated to creating their own versions of these popular designs and products based on their own interpretations of British imports. Americans also created a mental construct of China from philosophical writings of their European contemporaries, such as Voltaire, who often envisioned China as a philosopher's paradise. Some colonial Americans, such as Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson, fit their understanding of China within their own Enlightenment worldview. For these individuals, chinoiserie in American homes not only reflected the owners' desires to keep up with European fashions, but also carried associations with Enlightenment thought. The latter half of the eighteenth century was a time of escalating conflict as Americans colonists began to assert the right to govern themselves. Part of their struggle for freedom from England was a desire to rid themselves of the British imports, such as tea, silk, and porcelain, on which they had become so dependent by making those goods themselves. Americans in the eighteenth century had many of the natural resources to create such products, but often lacked the skill or equipment for turning their raw materials into finished goods. This thesis examines the colonists' attempts to create their own chinoiserie products, despite these odds, in light of revolutionary sentiments of the day. Chinoiserie in colonial America meshed with neoclassical décor, thereby reflecting the Enlightenment and revolutionary spirit of the time, and revealing a complex colonial worldview filled with trans-oceanic dialogues and cross-cultural currents.

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[ES] Esta tesis lleva a cabo una investigación exhaustiva e interdisciplinaria sobre la compleja interrelación entre el turismo patrimonial y el desarrollo sostenible, centrada en el estudio del patrimonio de la Ruta de la Seda en Bujará, Uzbekistán. Utilizando métodos de investigación cualitativos y cuantitativos, incluyendo el análisis de estudios empíricos, entrevistas con interesados, encuestas y estudios de campo en sitios patrimoniales, la investigación proporciona una comprensión enriquecida de los problemas y oportunidades asociados con el aprovechamiento del patrimonio histórico para iniciativas de turismo sostenible. Este trabajo, centrado en cinco preguntas de investigación esenciales, examina los desafíos existentes en el camino del turismo sostenible de Bujará, tales como la insuficiencia de infraestructura, la falta de colaboración efectiva entre proveedores de turismo y el gobierno, y las perspectivas futuras de los interesados. Además, se presta especial atención a los principales agentes involucrados, incluyendo a los gerentes de instalaciones de alojamiento, operadores turísticos y dueños de restaurantes, el papel que desempeñan las asociaciones público-privadas a nivel de gobernanza regional, y su entendimiento conceptual de "Ruta de la Seda" y "Turismo sostenible". Uno de los componentes significativos de esta investigación es el diagnóstico y evaluación del patrimonio cultural de la ciudad de Bujará asi como de los proveedores e infraestructuras vinculadas con el destino turístico. Este diagnóstico y evaluaciónó concluye con la aplicación de un Índice de Aptitud Turística, un Índice de Potencial Turístico para Bujará y, basado en estos, un Modelo de Turismo. Este modelo está diseñado no solo para mejorar la confianza del cliente y el flujo de turistas, sino también para integrarse de manera fluida con las estructuras económicas y sociales del destino. Asimismo, se proponen estrategias prácticas para la conservación del patrimonio, vías para mejorar y promover la colaboración de interesados y facilitar el crecimiento económico sostenible. Se reconoce como un modelo que puede servir como base para otros sitios patrimoniales similares en Asia Central. La investigación ofrece reflexiones críticas sobre los resultados de sus hallazgos y aboga por una mayor colaboración entre el sector público y privado y la participación comunitaria, enfatizando la necesidad de un enfoque multidimensional en la implementación de la gobernanza. Asimismo, este estudio reitera la importancia de programas de educación y fortalecimiento de capacidades destinados a mejorar la comprensión de prácticas de turismo sostenible entre proveedores de servicios. En definitiva, esta investigación sirve como una contribución significativa a los campos del turismo patrimonial y el desarrollo sostenible aplicado al caso de estudio del sitio patrimonial de la ciudad de Bujará. El estudio demuestra que si el patrimonio histórico de la Ruta de la Seda en Bujará es gestionado aplicando prácticas estables e inclusivas contribuirá significativamente a la prosperidad económica y social del destino. Además, este modelo puede servir para ser extrapolado a otros sitios patrimoniales similares. / [CA] Aquesta tesi duu a terme una investigació exhaustiva i interdisciplinària sobre la complexa interrelació entre el turisme patrimonial i el desenvolupament sostenible, centrada en l'estudi del patrimoni de la Ruta de la Seda en Bujará, Uzbekistan. Utilitzant mètodes d'investigació qualitatius i quantitatius, incloent-hi l'anàlisi d'estudis empírics, entrevistes amb interessats, enquestes i estudis de camp en llocs patrimonials, la investigació proporciona una comprensió enriquida dels problemes i oportunitats associats amb l'aprofitament del patrimoni històric per a iniciatives de turisme sostenible. Aquest treball, centrat en cinc preguntes d'investigació essencials, examina els desafiaments existents en el camí del turisme sostenible de Bujará, com ara la insuficiència d'infraestructura, la falta de col·laboració efectiva entre proveïdors de turisme i el govern, i les perspectives futures dels interessats. A més, es presta especial atenció als principals agents involucrats, incloent-hi els gerents d'instal·lacions d'allotjament, operadors turístics i restaurants, el paper que exerceixen les associacions públic-privades a nivell de governança regional, i el seu enteniment conceptual de la "Ruta de la Seda" i el "Turisme sostenible". Un dels components significatius d'aquesta investigació és el diagnòstic i avaluació del patrimoni cultural de la ciutat de Bujará asi com dels proveïdors i infraestructures vinculades al desti turístic. Aquest diagnòstic i la evaluacion conclou amb l'aplicació d'un Índex d'Aptitud Turística, un Índex de Potencial Turístic per a Bujará i, basat en aquests, un Model de Turisme. Aquest model està dissenyat no sols per a millorar la confiança del client i el flux de turistes, sinó també per a integrar-se de manera fluida amb les estructures econòmiques i socials del destí. Així mateix, es proposen estratègies pràctiques per a la conservació del patrimoni, vies per a millorar i promoure la col·laboració d'interessats i facilitar el creixement econòmic sostenible. Es reconeix com un model que pot servir com a base per a altres llocs patrimonials similars a Àsia Central. La investigació ofereix reflexions crítiques sobre els resultats obtinguts i advoca per una major col·laboració entre el sector públic i privat i la participació comunitària, emfatitzant la necessitat d'un enfocament multidimensional en la implementació de la governança. Així mateix, aquest estudi reitera la importància de programes d'educació i enfortiment de capacitats destinats a millorar la comprensió de pràctiques de turisme sostenible entre proveïdors de serveis. En definitiva, aquesta investigació serveix com una contribució significativa als camps del turisme patrimonial i el desenvolupament sostenible aplicat al cas d'estudi del lloc patrimonial de la ciutat de Bujará. L'estudi demostra que si el patrimoni històric de la Ruta de la Seda en Bujará és gestionat aplicant pràctiques estables i inclusives contribuirà significativament a la prosperitat econòmica i social del destí. A més, aquest model pot servir per a ser extrapolat a altres llocs patrimonials similars. / [EN] This thesis conducts a comprehensive, interdisciplinary investigation into the complex interrelationship between heritage tourism and sustainable development, with a focus on the Silk Road heritage in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Employing qualitative and quantitative research methods, including the analysis of empirical studies, interviews with stakeholders, surveys, and field studies at heritage sites, the research provides an enriched understanding of the issues and opportunities associated with leveraging historical heritage for sustainable tourism initiatives. Centered around five core research questions, the study scrutinizes existing challenges in Bukhara's sustainable tourism pathway, such as the inadequacy of infrastructure, lack of effective collaboration between tourism providers and the government, and future prospects of stakeholders. Furthermore, particular attention is paid to the key stakeholders involved, including managers of accommodation facilities, tour operators, and restaurant owners, their role in public-private partnerships at the regional governance level, and their conceptual understanding of "Silk Road" and "Sustainable Tourism". One of the significant components of the research the diagnosis and evaluation of the cultural heritage of the city of Bukhara as well as of the suppliers and infrastructure linked to the tourist destination. This diagnosis and evaluation conclude with the application of a Tourism Aptitude of the Heritages, a Tourism Potential Index for Bukhara and, based on these, a Tourism Model. This model is designed not only to enhance customer trust and the flow of tourists but also to integrate seamlessly with Bukhara's economic and social structures. It proposes practical strategies for heritage conservation, stakeholder collaboration, and sustainable economic growth, serving as a blueprint for similar heritage sites across Central Asia. The research offers critical reflections on the results of its findings and advocates for greater public-private sector collaboration and community participation, emphasizing the need for a multidimensional approach to governance implementation. Furthermore, this study reiterates the importance of education and capacity building programs aimed at improving understanding of sustainable tourism practices among service providers. Ultimately, this research serves as a significant contribution to the fields of heritage tourism and sustainable development applied to the case study of the Bukhara city heritage site. The study demonstrates that if the historical heritage of the Silk Road in Bukhara is managed by applying stable and inclusive practices it will contribute significantly to the economic and social prosperity of the destination. Furthermore, this model can be extrapolated to other similar heritage sites. / Kilichov, M. (2023). The Silk Road Heritage Enhancement for Local Sustainable Tourism Development in Bukhara (Uzbekistan). Analysis and Diagnosis about the Current Situation [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/201551

“21世紀海上絲綢之路”倡議與絲綢之路經濟帶的傳輸紐帶關係，發展成為“一帶一路”倡議，為中共在2013年所提出的戰略構想。 就美國而言，由於其經濟實力受金融危機影響減弱，透過積極干涉南海爭端，可協助其順利推進亞太戰略轉向，強化本國在東亞地區的權力基礎，並制約中國勢力擴張。相對於中共來說，應有效應對美國實施重返亞太戰略可能產生的各種不利影響。 本文探討對於共同建設的“21世紀海上絲綢之路”倡議，需要沿線各國與經濟體共同努力，願景需要由政治互信不斷增強，未來發展建置議程，共同促進聯合行動方案的互聯互通。 / The initiative of “One belt, one Road” means the economic belt of Land route of Silk Road connecting Mainland China with the countries of Central Asia and the transport ties of the Maritime Silk Road connecting Mainland China with the countries of ASEAN, which has been making a strategic formulation put forward by the People's Republic of China since 2013. The impact of islands disputes between China and Philippines on the security of South China Sea, as far as the United States is concerned, with its economic strength weakened by the financial crisis, by proactively interfering with that, it helps successfully reorient its regional strategy, strengthen the U.S. power base in East Asia, and prevent China from expanding further. On the other side, to the PRC., effective strategies should be put forward to all kinds of disadvantageous influences of America's returning to the Asia-Pacific region. This article argues that jointly building the initiative of the 21st Century Maritime Silk Road is required all parties to work together, the vision needs to be built for future development by increasing political mutual trust as well as development agenda so as to jointly promote inter connectivity.

The aim of this work is to explore the joining of inspiration, such as different garments and materials, in relation to commonly used methods in the fashion industry when it comes to joining of different trends and references such as clashing and collaging. The work proposes a new method and framework for join- ing inspiration which generates different results depending on what kind of inspiration that is put in to it. A garment can roughly be broken down to a silhouette and shape, materials and details. The material put in to the method and framework is based on information from trend seminars for SS16, because that is how many of today’s trend-oriented fashion brands get there inspiration. Trendy garment silhouettes are mixed through processes of computational morphing in Adobe Flash by a generation of spin in the mixing process were shape hints are used in a new manner. The new generated silhouettes are further developed and materialized through procedures of interpretation and figuration. Different trendy materials are melded in a direct and concrete way through mixed media techniques such as laminating, fusing and vacuum-techniques. The final steps of the method is a garment shape and material synthesis with starting point in the generated shape with the final material. The projects intention is to let the physical experimentation, interpretation and figuration play a central role in the research process for new types of methods, garments, materials and expressive pos- sibilities.

This study investigates copies of silk-embroidered linen cloths from the 16th and 17th century, created by the Danish Handcraft Guild during the period 1928–1980. The originals are most often embroidered with stem stitches in red silk with motives generally based on contemporary graphic prints. The Danish Handcraft Guild was founded in 1928 with ambitions to bring to life national textile traditions. The aim of the study is to find out which aspects of the historical textiles that were adopted in the copies, and possible reasons for these choices. Based on this case-study, the usage of historical originals for copies in relation to general understanding and development of cultural heritage is discussed. From a theoretical viewpoint, material culture is understood as having both physical and practical properties, related to memories and identities of individuals and societies. The study consists of two parts, one explorative study and one text analysis. In the explorative study five original textiles and nine copies are documented and compared. The text analysis deals with 77 texts from the Danish Handcraft Guild journal 1934–1980. The results show that the Danish Handcraft Guild practiced two approaches to historical originals. The mayor one was to find originals suitable for adoption on present-day products, often in simplified versions. A second approach is represented by big copies of silk-embroidered linen cloths. These were made as splendor display objects, related to a fine and noble national history. The tendency in this case-study is that copies of silk-embroidered linen cloths used for exhibitions seem to be closer to the original’s motives than those made for personal use. A conclusion of the study is that copies from historical originals do have potential to gain understanding and to develop cultural heritage. Which collective memory, history and value they convey depends on the context in which they were created, and to the story they mediate.

Submitted by Johnny Rodrigues (johnnyrodrigues@ufcg.edu.br) on 2018-09-06T19:46:49Z No. of bitstreams: 1 PEDRO RONALDO HERCULANO DE HOLANDA - TESE PPGEP 2007..pdf: 24364278 bytes, checksum: bf312b5c491a2630da9f313927a3c187 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-09-06T19:46:49Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 PEDRO RONALDO HERCULANO DE HOLANDA - TESE PPGEP 2007..pdf: 24364278 bytes, checksum: bf312b5c491a2630da9f313927a3c187 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-03-26 / A cultura do bicho-da-seda (Sericicultura), é uma atividade em fase de desenvolvimento no mundo inteiro, gerando emprego, renda agrícola e intercâmbio comercial. O casulo produzido pelo bicho-da-seda é constituído de casca, crisálida e espólio, sendo a casca constituída basicamente por sericina e fibroina. Devido ao alto teor de umidade (68 a 70%, em base úmida) e o curto ciclo de vida da crisálida (4 a 5 dias depois da colheita), é necessário que o casulo seja submetido ao processo de secagem, com a finalidade de ser armazenado com baixo teor de umidade (10 a 12% b.s), para posteriormente ser utilizado na Indústria de fiação, onde é transformado em produtos de alto valor comercial. Nesse sentido, esse trabalho tem como objetivo o projeto, a construção e a experimentação de um secador (tipo esteira com fluxos cruzados) e simulação da secagem de casulos do bicho-da-seda. São referenciados aspectos construtivos, funcionamento do secador e uma modelagem matemática para descrever as trocas de energia e massa entre o produto e o ar de secagem no interior do secador. As equações matemáticas foram resolvidas numericamente usando o método de volumes finitos. Resultados do desempenho de componentes do secador experimental e da secagem do casulo (simulada) são discutidos e analisados. Verificou-se que o teor de água do produto, no processo de secagem depende fortemente da temperatura, levemente da espessura da camada de casulos e praticamente independe da velocidade do ar de secagem. O secador desenvolvido tem as seguintes vantagens: versatilidade, baixo custo de construção, totalmente desmontável, boa mobilidade e esteiras controladas eletronicamente. / The culture of the silkworm (sériciculture) is an activity in development in all the world generating job, agricultural financial support and commercial exchange. Shell, chrysalis and booty constitute the cocoon produced by Bombix mori L. The shell is composed of fibroin and sericin. The cocoon has high initial moisture content (68 - 70% w. b.) and a the chrysalis has a low life cycle (4-5 days after harvested). Then, it needs to be submitted to the drying process and to be stored at low moisture content (10 - 12% d. b.) and after it needs to be marketed to produce silk yarns, which are used on the manufacturing of high cost products. In this sense, the goal of this work is to design, to make and to test a cross flow band conveyon dryer and to simulate silk worm cocoon drying. Building and working aspect of the dryer and mathematical modeling to describe heat and mans transfer between air and product inside the dryer are reported. The mathematical equation are solved numerically using the finite volume method. Results of the performance of the experimental dryer and cocoon drying (simulated) are presented and analyzed. From the results it was verified that during of the drying process, the moisture content of the cocoon depends strongly of the air temperature, slightly of the cocoon layer thinkness and it is almost affected by air flow rate. The following advantages of the dryer can be cited versatility, low costoff the building, many easy to pieces, good mobility and electronic control of the wire net.

Darknet är en del av den djupa webben, som är en icke indexerad del av internet. Det används för olika ändamål, till exempel att köpa läkemedel och finansiell information. Tillgången till Darknet kan vara anonym genom att använda TOR och Bitcoin. Anonymiteten vid webbsökning under användandet av Darknet kommer påverka bevis för myndigheter. Således kan det ha en möjlig effekt på brottsbekämpande arbete, särskilt angående digitalt kriminaltekniskt arbete, utifrån begränsningen av tillgängliga data. Således syftar denna studie till att fastställa vad de svenska myndigheterna arbetar med för att stoppa illegala aktiviteter som utförs med hjälp av Darknet, i samband med begränsningarna från svensk lagstiftning. Studien kommer att genomföras med hjälp av intervjuer med polis, advokat, köpare och tullen för att få deras insikt och åsikt om det valda ämnet. Medan statistiska uppgifter kommer från undersökningar med kunniga respondenter från forum. På grund av detta kan arbetet fungera som en väsentlig förståelse för hur Darknet kan påverka nutiden och framtida brottsutredningar. Ytterligare arbete måste utföras i området för att lösa potentiella implikationer, eftersom detta arbete endast examinerar om det finns påverkan / Darknet is a part of the Deep web, which an unindexed section of the internet. It is in use forvarious purposes, e.g., buying drugs and financial information. The access to Darknet can besubstantially anonymous by using TOR and bitcoin. Given anonymity for web browsing, it will directly impact evidence about illicit purchases. So, itmay have a possible effect on law enforcement work, particularly on digital forensic work due tothe limitation of data available. Thus, this study aims to determine what the Swedish government isdoing to stop Darknet trading, along with the limitations from Swedish regulations. The focus is thus on criminal prosecution and criminal investigation. The study will be throughconducting interviews with police, lawyer, buyer, and border control to get et their insight andopinion on the chosen topic. Statistical data is from conducting surveys with knowledgeablerespondents from forums. Due to this, the work can serve as an essential understanding of how Darknet may impact presentand future criminal investigations. Additional work must be done in the area to solve the potentialimplications, due to this work only examines if there are any impacts

L'ingénierie tissulaire du ligament constitue une approche prometteuse pour réparer ou remplacer un ligament endommagé. Les trois piliers essentiels de l'ingénierie tissulaire ligamentaire sont la matrice de support (aussi appelée scaffold), la source cellulaire, ainsi que l'apport de stimulations biomécaniques/biochimiques : ces trois piliers ont été partiellement étudiés par le passé dans le but de s’orienter vers une régénération ligamentaire. Dans la présente étude, le polymère synthétique poly (L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) (PLCL) et la soie ont été proposés et comparés comme de potentiels candidats pour la constitution d’une matrice de support. Une série de matrices tressées multicouches à base de PLCL et de soie, ainsi qu'un nouveau composite soie/PLCL ont été développés et comparés. Les caractérisations physico-chimiques et biologiques ont démontré que le PLCL et la soie constituent des candidats pertinents, tant sur les plans mécaniques que biologiques, pour la constitution d’une matrice de support. De plus, nous avons montré que le composite soie/PLCL offrait des propriétés mécaniques et une biocompatibilité accrue par rapport aux autres matrice testées, et constituait probablement le candidat le plus approprié pour l'ingénierie tissulaire du ligament. Les cellules souches mésenchymateuses (CSM) de la gelée de Wharton (WJ-MSCs) ainsi que les cellules souches mésenchymateuses de la moelle osseuse (BM-MSCs) ont été évaluées et comparées en tant que sources cellulaires potentielles pour la régénération ligamentaire. Les caractéristiques biologiques de ces cellules incluent l’adhésion cellulaire, la prolifération, la migration et la synthèse de matrice extracellulaire. Ces deux types de cellules ont montré une bonne biocompatibilité dans leurs interactions avec les matrices de support en PLCL et en soie. Aucune différence significative n'a été observée entre les WJ-MSCs et les BM-MSCs. Enfin, l'effet de la stimulation biomécanique sur la différentiation des CSM en tissu ligamentaire a été évalué par le biais d’un bioréacteur de traction-torsion. Bien que peu de cellules aient été détectées la matrice après 7 jours de stimulation, des CSM de forme allongée le long des fibres ont été détectées, ce qui permet de penser qu'il est possible de promouvoir la différenciation des biosubstituts matrice-cellules grâce à la stimulation mécanique en bioréacteur. En conclusion, cette étude démontre le potentiel prometteur de l’association de cellules souches mésenchymateuses issues de la gelée de Wharton ou de la moelle osseuse avec une matrice de support composite soie/PLCL pour la régénération ligamentaire dans le futur. / Ligament tissue engineering offers a potential approach to recover or replace injured ligament. The three essential elements that have been investigated towards ligament regeneration consist in a suitable scaffold, an adapted cell source, and the supply of biomechanical/biochemical stimulations. In the current study, synthetic polymer poly (L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) (PLCL) and silk have been evaluated as suitable candidates to constitute an adapted scaffold. A series of multilayer braided scaffolds based on PLCL and silk, as well as an original silk/PLCL composite scaffold, have been developed and compared. The conducted physicochemical and biological characterizations have demonstrated that both PLCL and silk constitute adapted candidate material to form ligament scaffolds from the mechanical and biological points of view. Moreover, it has been observed that silk/PLCL composite scaffold resulted in adequate mechanical properties and biocompatibility, and therefore could constitute suitable candidate scaffolds for ligament tissue engineering. Both Wharton’s Jelly mesenchymal stem cells (WJ-MSCs) and Bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells (BM-MSCs) have been evaluated to be cell source for ligament regeneration. MSCs behaviors including cell attachment, proliferation, migration and extracellular matrix synthesis have been investigated. In the present study, both MSCS showed a good biocompatibility to interact with PLCL and silk scaffolds. No significant differences have been detected between WJ-MSCs and BM-MSCs. Finally, the effect of biomechanical stimulation on MSCs differentiation towards ligament tissue has been carried out with a tension-torsion bioreactor. Although few cells were detected on scaffold after 7 days of stimulation, MSCs were observed to exhibit an elongated shape along the longitudinal direction of fibers, which may indicate that an adapted mechanical stimulation could promote MSC-scaffold constructs differentiation towards ligamentous tissue. As a conclusion, this study demonstrates the potential of WJ-MSCs and BM-MSCs combined with a new silk/PLCL composite scaffold towards ligament regeneration.