Michel Maffesoli and Zygmunt Bauman add the traits of Benjamin's flâneur to the (neo-)nomad, namely his "flâneur" gaze and his relation to commodities. But in the concept of nomad these traits gain specific nature - on the field of fashion they transform nomad into migrant, who is capable of creative work with vanitas. Nomad as a travelling flâneur is a stranger-guest and becomes a tourist, willingly getting lost in the city and voluntarily being surprised by unexpected encounters. Tourists relation to his memories could be described with Benjamin's description of mémoire involontaire as a revived punctum. A tourist prepares his memories like a nicely descending ruins. Souvenir is his materialised memory. It's not only a duplicated plastic Eiffel tower, but a magic artifact. It's a collective aura, what's on Benjamin's mind when he writes about aura regression. The private aura comes instead, turning things to talismans, reenchanting the world. The era of postmechanical reproduction reminds one, that there is a way to reproduce not just mechanically but biologically: a bricolage remix is made. Souvenirs descend and take shape of hommogenic rummage which reveals the fundamental form of postmodern metamorphosis: recyclation. This metamorphosis can finally be used when analyzing the settler turn into nomad...

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:18:09Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Rosane Schmitz Fernandes.pdf: 17055070 bytes, checksum: fe4b744f138755e7017fdf03cce8d276 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-09-23 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This dissertation refers the research, which covers the areas of discursive semiotics, communication and fashion, having as its universe the set of Alceu Penna s fashion plates, in the magazines O Cruzeiro, within the column Figurinos, in the 1950 s decade. The corpus of this research was built out of this set of images, enabling the construction of the social practices visibility issue, referring to a certain female simulacrum and type of women, inserted in the image universe of the magazine. Thus, the research revolves around the questions: What kind of Brazilian woman simulacrum Alceu Penna proposed through O Cruzeiro magazine? How did he construct this simulacrum in the fashion drawings in the magazine? This way, the research seeks to identify and analyze the fashion images proposed by the designer as its general goal. Such images signal female features that will anchor the construction of a Brazilian woman simulacrum. For the specific goals the research seeks to achieve the following: 1) Present the female way(s) of dressing conveyed in Alceu Penna s column called Figurinos; 2) Contribute for the identification of the Brazilian woman in the 1950 s decade; 3) Verify existing conceptual relations between fashion, woman simulacrum and the culture industry represented in O Cruzeiro magazine, within the column Figurinos during that period; 4) Establish the logic in the relations between the expression categories (plastic formants) and the content categories (meaning generative course) in order to describe the type of semiosis existing between expression plan and content plan; 5) Identify correlations between the fields of fashion, advertising and economics in the magazine; 6) Contribute to fashion studies. The methodological procedures compose a descriptive and interpretative method for the analysis of verbal and visual arrangements of the text, named syncretic, which copes with the identification of mechanisms that structure internally the text in relation to the sociohistorical context. This way, the structural complexity of the text was understood, in which the relations and semiosis are produced as a whole of meaning, according to Algirdas Julien Greimas theoretical framework. Also, the sociosemiotics developed by Eric Landowski was used, highlighting the concepts of simulacrum, presence as a sense system, correlated to interaction and visibility systems. The analysis of the visual aspect of fashion plates in the column was grounded on Jean-Marie Floch s plastic and syncretic semiotics approaches. As for the visuality aspect of fashion Ana Claudia de Oliveira s statements were used, which relate it to appearance discourses. Having this accession, the semiotic analysis tested the hypothesis that Alceu Penna s fashion plates shape a slim, thin female body, with marked waist and gestures that show sometimes a relaxed, moved posture in its internal world and sometimes a formal, static and conservative one in a social environment. It was apprehended in these drawings the construction of a family woman simulacrum, who is within a dependence relation with the masculine, and a Brazilian woman simulacrum, who follows the international fashion trends and shows herself to others, besides the adoption of Brazilian culture stereotypes, in order to reveal her insertion and sense of belonging to the elites context. The drawings correlate to the advertising discourses of the magazine, that promote an economic model of consumption of goods produced by the implanted industry in the country, linked a model Brazilian social of a modern way of life, where the masculine and the feminine have support with French and New Yorker fashion matrixes / Esta dissertação refere-se à pesquisa que abrange as áreas da semiótica discursiva, comunicação e moda, tendo como universo o conjunto de imagens de moda dos figurinos de Alceu Penna inserido na coluna Figurinos da revista O Cruzeiro, da década de 1950. Deste conjunto foi extraído o corpus de pesquisa, possibilitando estudar a visibilidade das práticas sociais referentes a determinado simulacro feminino e tipo de mulher inscrito no universo imagético da revista. Sendo assim, a pesquisa gira em torno das seguintes questões: Que simulacro de mulher brasileira Alceu Penna propôs por meio da revista O Cruzeiro? Como ele construiu este simulacro nos desenhos de figurinos de moda da revista? Desta forma busca-se, como objetivo geral, identificar e analisar as imagens de moda propostas pelo figurinista que assinalam modos de presença feminina que perseguem a construção de um simulacro de mulher brasileira. Na seqüência da investigação, busca-se alcançar os seguintes objetivos específicos: 1) Apresentar o(s) modo(s) de vestir feminino(s) veiculado(s) na coluna Figurinos de Alceu Penna; 2) contribuir para identificação da mulher brasileira dos anos de 1950; 3) verificar as relações conceituais existentes entre moda, simulacro de mulher e indústria cultural representadas pela revista O Cruzeiro, que está inscrita na coluna Figurinos no período determinado; 4) estabelecer a lógica das relações existentes entre as categorias da expressão (formantes plásticos) e as categorias do conteúdo (percurso gerativo do sentido) para descrever o tipo de semiose entre plano da expressão e plano do conteúdo; 5) identificar as correlações entre seção de moda, publicidade e economia na revista; 6) contribuir para os estudos da moda. Os procedimentos metodológicos adotados configuram um método descritivo e interpretativo para a análise do arranjo visual e verbal do texto, denominado sincrético e esses dão conta da identificação dos mecanismos que estruturam internamente o texto em relação ao contexto sóciohistórico. Desta forma compreendeu-se a complexidade estrutural do texto no qual relações e semioses são produzidas em um todo de sentido segundo o referencial teórico de Algirdas Julien Greimas. Empregou-se ainda a sociossemiótica desenvolvida por Eric Landowski destacando os conceitos de simulacro e de presença, como regimes de sentido, correlatos aos regimes de interação e de visibilidade. Para analisar o aspecto mais visual do figurino na coluna, o embasamento foi a semiótica plástica e a sincrética nos desenvolvimentos de Jean-Marie Floch. E na abordagem da visualidade da moda, seguiu-se Ana Claudia de Oliveira que a relaciona a discursos da aparência. Com este aporte a análise semiótica testou as hipóteses de que os desenhos dos figurinos de Alceu Penna configuram um corpo feminino esguio, magro, com cintura demarcada, com quadril em evidência enquanto a gestualidade mostra uma postura ora descontraída e movente no interno do seu mundo, ora formal, estática e conservadora no social. Nestes desenhos depreendeu-se a construção de um simulacro de mulher da família, que está em relação de dependência com o masculino, e de um simulacro de mulher brasileira que segue a moda internacional e se mostra para o outro, através da adoção dos estereótipos da cultura brasileira, para revelar sua inserção e pertencimento no contexto das elites. Os desenhos se relacionam aos discursos publicitários da revista que promovem um modelo econômico de consumo de bens produzidos pela indústria implantada no país, aliado ao modelo social brasileiro de vida moderna, onde o masculino e o feminino se apoiam nas matrizes da moda francesa e nova iorquina

本篇論文旨在探討，將尚．布希亞所觀察到的擬仿物應用到詹姆斯．喬伊斯的《都柏林人》之可能性。擬仿物是一種自我指涉、和真實脫離關係的符號，且擬仿物的誕生即代表了真實的死亡。擬仿物的論證有助於解釋《都柏林人》中二元對立的瓦解，例如真實∕想像，民族主義∕帝國主義，精神性∕物質性，加害者∕被害者，過去∕現今等。除此之外，其他和布希亞擬像理論相關的概念如墨比絲環迴繞的否定性、退卻的歷史，和內爆，都能闡釋都柏林中意義的蒸發。從＜會議室裡的常春藤日＞中的民主選舉擬仿物，＜賽車之後＞中的民族認同擬仿物，＜阿拉比＞中的商品擬仿物，＜伊芙琳＞中的父權擬仿物，＜一抹微雲＞中的國界擬仿物，到＜死者＞中的歷史擬仿物，喬伊斯的都柏林人在察覺真實的消失之後，感到震驚或無法反應。儘管喬伊斯典型的結局透露出一絲灰暗，將布希亞應用至喬伊斯，確實提供都柏林人從二元對立的結構中獲得自由的機會。

ENGLISH SUMMARY The main objective of this thesis was to provide a complex perspective on the mutual relationship of gender and media in the age of post-modernity with a special attention to the stereotypical gender portrayal presented to us by the contemporary Czech advertising discourse. We chose to demonstrate this problematics through the methods of semiotic analysis on the analytical sample of 5 advertisements (consisting of selected TV commercials) representing various aspects of stereotypical gender images appearing in the today's Czech advertising contents. We then subjected these selected advertisements to the analytical methods in pursuit of finding the answers to the questions related to the media image of men, women and our society that the stereotypical gender depictions contained in these advertisements help to construct. Although many of these advertisements appear to be openly sexist or even misogynic on the first sight, using the mechanisms of semiotic analysis we came to a rather opposite conclusion proposing the analyzed contents are rather pro-feminine tending toward an extensive masculine critique. This result, however, is based mainly on the mechanisms of oppositional reading of the subjected texts. On the other hand, it is presumable that the "average media consumer" not having access...

The medium is the message in the first place: the medium as presence, as the author. His contribution to the academic world is his academic Holographic Memoirs. His story, the author's memoirs, is a fictive-narrative discourse with an organic ubuntu open-endedness. The Hologram is both an autobiography, but also all the information at all places simultaneously – nonlocal in quantum physical terms - within an intense hallucinating dream: no illusion, but rather a HyperReality with all its Virtual Identities. The invention of tram hopping is the plot of the story. The plot is like an hourglass where the first part of the story is the emptying of the sand, the deconstruction of modernism, but while the top chamber runs empty and the bottom chamber fills up, so the deconstruction is simultaneously a dependent arising/(social) construction/ubuntuing to revival – the synagogal Shekinah presence of YAHWEH. The top chamber is the unreasonable Newtonian physics and the bottom chamber reasonable quantum physics. The metaphysics (before the physics) of the top chamber is poststructuralism and deconstruction, while the bottom chamber is the virtual Hebraic worldview that delutively merges ubuntu and Buddhism. The long narrow neck in the middle is the moonily narrative that lives us with psychology (Psycho-logic) lost in sociology (Social-physics). Hermeneutics is set forth in the same contrasting hourglass of the top chamber, the inherited tradition, emptying to what it should accomplish – (virtual) presence. / Philosophy and Systematic Theology / D. Th. (Systematic Theology)

La présente étude analyse les représentations de la ville dans la série policière d’Ian Rankin dont l’inspecteur John Rebus est le protagoniste. La polarité étant l’un des principes organisateurs de l’écriture rankinienne, notre analyse s’articule autour de plusieurs couples de notions antinomiques. Nous remettons d’abord en cause la légitimité de l’antinomie qui oppose la littérature à la « littérature de masse », dans laquelle est souvent classé le roman policier. Cela nous conduit à redéfinir le roman policier, et mettre en perspective la série dans le contexte du monde littéraire et artistique écossais contemporain. Puis nous étudions l’articulation entre topographie réelle et lieu imaginaire dans l’Edimbourg de Rankin. Toute une géographie urbaine se dessine dans les romans ; l’arpentage incessant de l’espace par le protagoniste fournit l’occasion de références très spécifiques à la topographie et à la toponymie, et la sérialité tisse peu à peu un dense réseau de points nodaux ainsi qu’une multiplicité de trajets potentiels que nous avons représentés par des cartes fournies en annexe. Mais dans d’autres cas, l’espace se fait générique, se réfère plus à des conventions cinématographiques qu’à la carte de la ville. Nous envisageons enfin la ville d’Edimbourg comme un personnage ambivalent dans la lignée des personnages du roman gothique. La filiation gothique est perceptible dans l’esthétique de la ville, et la surface de la carte est compartimentée suivant un ensemble d’axes polarisants. Toutefois, cette carte se déploie elle-même par-dessus un double souterrain et non cartographiable d’Edimbourg, à la fois mémoire et inconscient de la ville. / The aim of the present study is to analyse the representations of the city to be found in Ian Rankin’s crime fiction series of which Inspector Rebus is the protagonist. Polarization being one of the structuring principles of the author’s writing, our work focuses on several pairs of antagonist notions in turn.The first one is the opposition between “high” and “low” (or “popular”) literature, the latter category being often associated with crime fiction. New categorizations of contemporary Scottish crime fiction are thus put to the test so as to assess its role and place within the landscape of Scottish literary and artistic life.Next the way Rankin’s novels map Edinburgh as a topography both real and imaginary is explored. As John Rebus endlessly paces the streets of the city, a literary geography gradually emerges and takes shape from one novel to the next, thus determining a network of focal points and potential trajectories which are depicted in the maps to be found in the annexes. This does not preclude the use of a more urban-generic type of space, which seems to have been modelled on representations of the city deriving from movies.In time, Rebus’ Edinburgh can be seen as a character in its own right, one fraught with ambiguities stemming from the Gothic novel tradition. This Gothic filiation is visible in the aesthetic of the city, while the polarity between surface representations and subterranean depths, full of twists and turns, calls into question the very possibility of mapping the city as it gradually discloses its past and unconscious memories.

Text in English with abstracts and keywords in English, Afrikaans and Sesotho / This was a practice-led study, in which I critically engaged with my own video artwork alongside the video works of three other artists. Selected works of Penny Siopis, Anders Weberg, Maja Zack and mine deal with the notions of memory and trauma. I investigated which visual strategies and techniques derived from film theory are employed in video art to simulate traumatic memories from war conflicts. This research analysed specific theories of Gilles Deleuze and Sergei Eisenstein to identify how certain film strategies are used in video art to simulate grievous historical events. I explored the way that these events shape postmemory, as theorised by Marianne Hirsch and Cathy Caruth. The theories of Susan Sontag and Jean Baudrillard describe how memory relies on imaginative investment and interpretation, creating a simulation of the past, in which affect takes precedence over accurate and factual portrayal of traumatic events. / Hierdie studie was ’n praktykgeleide studie waartydens ek my eie videokunswerk tesame met diè van drie ander kunstenaars krities ondersoek het. Gekose werke uit my eie stal, diè van Penny Siopis, Anders Weberg en Maja Zack handel oor die begrippe herinnering en trauma. Ek het ondersoek ingestel na die visuele strategieë en tegnieke voortspruitend uit filmteorie wat in videokuns aangewend word om traumatiese herinneringe van oorlogkonflikte te simuleer. Hierdie navorsing het die spesifieke teorieë van Gilles Deleuze en Sergei Eisenstein ontleed ten einde te identifiseer hoe bepaalde filmstrategieë in videokuns gebruik word om smartlike historiese gebeure te simuleer. Ek het die wyse nagevors waarop hierdie gebeure post-herinneringe modelleer, soos deur Marianne Hirsch en Cathy Caruth geteoretiseer. Die teorieë van Susan Sontag en Jean Baudrillard beskryf hoedat herinneringe op verbeeldingryke belegging en interpretasie steun om ’n simulasie van die verlede te skep waarin affek voorkeur kry bo die akkurate en feitelike voorstelling van traumatiese gebeure. / Seno e ne e le thutopatlisiso e e eteletsweng pele ke tiragatso, moo ke dirisaneng ka tshekatsheko le tiro ya me ya botsweretshi jwa bidio ke e bapisitse le ditiro tsa bidio tsa batsweretshi ba bangwe ba le bararo. Ditiro tse di tlhophilweng tsa ga Penny Siopis, Anders Weberg, Maja Zack le tsa me di samagana le dintlha tsa kgopolo le manokonoko. Ke sekasekile gore go dirisitswe ditogamaano le dithekenini dife tsa pono tse di tswang mo tioring ya difilimi mo botsweretshing jwa bidio go etsisa dikgopolo tsa manokonoko a dikgotlhang tsa ntwa. Patlisiso eno e lokolotse ditiori tse di rileng tsa ga Gilles Deleuze le Sergei Eisenstein go supa ka moo ditogamaano dingwe tsa filimi di dirisiwang ka gona mo botsweretshing jwa bidio go etsisa ditiragalo tse di botlhoko tsa hisetori. Ke tlhotlhomisitse ka moo ditiragalo tseno di bopang segopotso sa morago go ya ka tiori ya Marianne Hirsch le Cathy Caruth. Ditiori tsa ga Susan Sontag le Jean Baudrillard di tlhalosa ka moo kgopolo e ikaegang ka peeletso ya ikakanyetso le thanolo ka gona, e etsisa dilo tsa maloba, moo e leng gore ditlamorago e nna tsona ditlapele go feta pontsho e e nepagetseng le ya nnete ya ditiragalo tse di bakileng manokonoko. / Art and Music / M.V.A.

Does the individual really matter in the post-modern world, brimming with countless signs and signifiers? My main objective in this writing is to demonstrate how this happens in Verhoeven's films, exploring his central themes and subtext and doing what science fiction does: hold a mirror up to the contemporary world and critique it, asking whether our species' current trajectory is beneficial or hazardous.; Dutch director Paul Verhoeven is a polarizing figure. Although many of his American made films have received considerable praise and financial success, he has been lambasted on countless occasions for his gratuitous use of sex, violence, and contentious symbolism--1995s Showgirls was overwhelmingly dubbed the worst film of all time and 1997s Starship Troopers earned him a reputation as a fascist. Regardless of the controversy surrounding him, his science fiction films are a move beyond the conventions of the big blockbuster science fiction films of the 1980s (E.T. and the Star Wars trilogy are prime examples), revealing a deeper exploration of both sociopolitical issues and the human condition. Much like the novels of Philip K. Dick (and Verhoeven's 1990 film Total Recall--an adaptation of a Dick short story), Verhoeven's science fiction work explores worlds where paranoia is a constant and determining whether an individual maintains any liberty is regularly questionable. In this thesis I am basically exploring issues regarding power. Although I barely bring up the term power in it, I feel it is central. Power is an ambiguous term; are we discussing physical power, state power, objective power, subjective power, or any of the other possible manifestations of the word? The original Anglo-French version of power means "to be able," asking whether it is possible for one to do something. In relation to Verhoeven's science fiction work each demonstrates the limitations placed upon an individual's autonomy, asking are the protagonists capable of independent agency or rather just environmental constructs reflecting the myriad influences surrounding them.