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À MARGEM EM THE BLUEST EYE, DE TONI MORRISON: NEGRITUDE, IDENTIDADE E CRÍTICA SOCIALLopes, Mirna Leisi Coelho 15 July 2009 (has links)
The contemporary North American fiction (African American) presents concerns regarding the identity of African-Americans. There is a need, through the literary text,
to establish a dialogue with the myths and historical models for the legacy tradition of slaves from Africa. The aim of this study is to analyze how, through the composition of the characters and through the eyes of the witness-narrator, the questions about the construction of an African-American identity are presented and discussed, and how it is possible to perceive in the novel The Eye Bluest, (1970), the resumption about the discussion about the concept of blackness. One of the interests in this
analysis is to investigate the way oppression is imposed on a black community, established in the north of the US. Both blackness and Afro-American identity are represented in Morrison´s fiction through the voice of the witness-narrator that builds a critical point of view on the white north american society and on the black community, which in many ways, reduplicates the prejudiced look launched on itself and on its members. The criticism is also established through the representation of the main character, Pecola. The research is based on analysis of the novel of the American writer Toni Morrison. The Bluest Eye is the first novel published by the author and constitutes itself as a report of the witness-narrator ´s experiences, and as the social and cultural representation of a certain community in a very precise socio-historical moment. To perform the analysis, it was necessary to establish the concepts of cultural identity, blackness, subjectivity and (Afro) American history, taking into account the fictional discourse. / A ficção contemporânea norte-americana (Afro-americana) apresenta preocupações referentes à identidade dos Afro-americanos. Há uma necessidade de, através do texto literário, estabelecer um diálogo com os mitos históricos e modelos legados pela tradição dos escravos vindos de África. O objetivo desse trabalho é analisar de que maneira, através da composição das personagens e através do olhar da
narradora-testemunha, são apresentados e discutidos questionamentos acerca da construção de uma identidade Afro-americana, e como se percebe, no romance The
Bluest Eye, (1970), a retomada da discussão acerca da noção de negritude . Um dos interesses nesta análise foi o de perceber como a opressão é exercida sobre uma comunidade negra estabelecida no norte dos E.U.A. As questões de negritude e identidade Afro-americanas são estabelecidas na ficção morrisoniana através da voz da narradora-testemunha que constrói um ponto de vista crítico sobre a sociedade branca norte-americana e sobre a própria comunidade negra, que em muitos sentidos, passa a reduplicar o olhar preconceituoso lançado sobre si mesma e sobre seus membros. E também, através da caracterização da personagem principal, Pecola. The Bluest Eye é o primeiro romance publicado por Toni Morrison e constitui-se como um relato de vivências de Claudia, a narradora-testemunha, e
como a representação social e cultural de uma dada comunidade, em um dado momento sócio-histórico. Para efetuar a análise, fez-se necessário estabelecer conceitos de identidade cultural, negritude, subjetividade e história (Afro) americana, levando em consideração a ficcionalidade e o discurso.
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Capitalismo e crítica social no filme Blade Runner / Capitalism and social criticism in the film Blade RunnerBastos, Clodoaldo do Nascimento 23 November 2018 (has links)
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Previous issue date: 2018-11-23 / In this research we analyze the film Blade Runner and its social criticism related to capitalism; the problem raised here is to answer the question: there is a positioning of the film in relation to capitalism, but what kind of position is this: critical, conservative, revolutionary? We begin the dissertation with a chapter dedicated to theoretical foundation, which is based on Marxism and its critical and totalizing perspective, going against the post-structuralist hegemony with its micro vision of the social. Still in this tuning fork we work with the concept of a regime of accumulation within a theory about the mode of production of capitalist production, in order to understand the historical context of the last decades of the twentieth century. In the warp of the first chapter we also devoted some lines to explaining the sociological theory of cinema used in research, here materialized in the form of a dissertation; including what we consider to be fundamental in a film, which is the film message, where the feelings, interests, political positions, etc., of the team that produces the cinematographic work are expressed. The second chapter is a panoramic flight on the history of the regime of integral accumulation, we start from the concept and then we make a historical-sociological study on the world-wide and American reality of the sixties, seventy and eighty of the twentieth century. In the third chapter we have the analysis of the movie Blade Runner. We start from its realization, from production, and then analyze its social critique of capitalism, in view of a totalizing look at social relations that are in concrete reality and expressed in the film as consumerism, exploitation of labor, individualism, destruction the environment and neoliberalism. All encompassed by a dystopian and pessimistic perspective on capitalism in the age of integral accumulation. / Nesta pesquisa analisamos o filme Blade Runner e sua crítica social relacionada ao capitalismo; o problema levantado aqui é responder a indagação: há um posicionamento do filme em relação ao capitalismo, mas que tipo de posicionamento é esse: crítico, conservador, revolucionário? Começamos a dissertação com um capítulo dedicado a fundamentação teórica, que tem como base o marxismo e sua perspectiva crítica e totalizante, indo na contramão da hegemonia pós-estruturalista, com sua visão micro do social. Ainda nesse diapasão trabalhamos com o conceito de regime de acumulação dentro de uma teoria sobre o modo de produção de produção capitalista, para entendermos o contexto histórico das últimas décadas do século XX. Na urdidura do primeiro capítulo também dedicamos algumas linhas para explanar sobre teoria sociológica do cinema utilizada na pesquisa, aqui materializada em forma de dissertação; mostrando inclusive, o que consideramos fundamental num filme, que é a mensagem fílmica, onde estão expressos os sentimentos, interesses, posicionamentos políticos etc., da equipe produtora da obra cinematográfica. O segundo capítulo é um voo panorâmico sobre a história do regime de acumulação integral, partimos do conceito e depois fazemos um estudo histórico-sociológico sobre a realidade mundial e estadunidense das décadas de sessenta, setenta e oitenta do século XX. Já no terceiro capítulo temos a análise do filme Blade Runner. Partimos da sua realização, da produção, e depois analisamos sua crítica social ao capitalismo, tendo em vista, um olhar totalizante das relações sociais que estão na realidade concreta e expressas no filme como o consumismo, a exploração do trabalho, o individualismo, a destruição do meio ambiente e o neoliberalismo. Tudo englobado por uma perspectiva distópica e pessimista em relação ao capitalismo na era de acumulação integral.
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O Clà de Moreira Campos: aspectos sociais dos contos publicados em revista / The Clan of Moreira Campos: social aspects of the short stories published in the journalLia Raquel Vieira de Andrade 16 June 2009 (has links)
CoordenaÃÃo de AperfeiÃoamento de Pessoal de NÃvel Superior / nÃo hà / A literatura do Cearà hà muito tempo, vem mostrando excelente potencial produtivo, seja na prosa ou na poesia. Os autores cearenses apresentam ao pÃblico retratos de sua terra, sua gente, seus costumes, patrocinando, na divulgaÃÃo de seus escritos, a universalizaÃÃo da cor local. A historiografia literÃria relata que o Cearà foi um dos estados que mais manteve agremiaÃÃes literÃrias, como a Academia Francesa, a Padaria Espiritual e o Grupo ClÃ, este Ãltimo considerado como um dos grupos de maior relevo nas letras cearenses, uma vez que dele surgiram ficcionistas, poetas, ensaÃstas, cronistas e crÃticos literÃrios que, sem dÃvida alguma, elevaram a literatura e as artes, tanto no Cearà quanto no Brasil. O Grupo ClÃ, como a maioria das agremiaÃÃes literÃrias, possuÃa, para fins de divulgaÃÃo prÃpria, uma revista homÃnima, que circulou durante quarenta anos e, por conta disso, deu oportunidade aos seus membros de divulgarem seus trabalhos. Dentre os nomes que mais colaboraram com a revista està o do contista Moreira Campos, que publicou contos e textos de colaboraÃÃo em quinze nÃmeros do periÃdico. Usando tÃcnicas muito caracterÃsticas, como a concisÃo, a ironia e a representaÃÃo da sociedade em seus aspectos particulares, à posto na mesma linha de Machado de Assis e Graciliano Ramos. Buscando enfatizar o carÃter social nos contos que Moreira Campos publicou na revista ClÃ, este estudo tem por objetivo apresentar, atravÃs de anÃlise textual, elementos do discurso que destaquem uma singular visÃo crÃtica da sociedade atravÃs da caracterizaÃÃo das personagens e do meio em que estÃo inseridas. / It is well known that the central focus of writers from CearÃ, mainly in prose or poetry, has been the cultural and social aspects of the region, they portrait costumes of the people, social problems and quite often the nature. This framework has been of great contribution to spread throughout Brazil the local literature, whose potential has been notably recognised by the literary critics. In particular, in the literature historiography, Cearà is one the most fertile grounds for literary groups such as the âAcademia Francesaâ (French Academy), the âPadaria Espiritualâ (Spiritual bakery) and the âGrupo ClÃâ (Clan group). The Latest is perhaps one of the most relevant groups, due to the great variety of profiles arisen from it, indeed the Clan group gave birth to very distinctive artists such as fictionists, poets, essayist and literary critics, whom gave great contribution to the arts in Cearà and in Brazil. The group had an issue which was called âRevista ClÃâ (Clan Journal), which has been issued during forty years, therefore the there is a long source of literary, which deserves attention. One of the most appreciated members in the short-tale style is Moreira Campos, who published also essays and literary criticism in fifteen issues of the Journal. Some critics say Moreira Campos follows the thread of the great Machado de Assis and Graciliano Ramos, due to some common techniques, such as the concision, the irony and the critical representation of the society. In this work the short-tales which Moreira Campos published in the Clan Journal are studied by a textual analysis, in which we focus on the aspects used for social criticism, namely the construction of the characters and their lives.
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Motivy hedvábí v tangské poezii a významy s nimi spojené / Silk as a motif in Tang poetry and related meaningsSlabáková, Eliška January 2013 (has links)
Sericulture has been a part of Chinese culture since ancient times. The silk dress was a symbol of the social privileges of the educated elite and the court. On the other hand, silk production and silk processing were also part of the everyday life of common villagers. For Chinese society, silk was an important material both economically and culturally. This diploma thesis analyzes how various aspects of life in Tang society, which were connected to silk, are portrayed in the works of the middle Tang poets Wang Jian 王建 (cca. 751-830) and Bai Juyi 白居易 (772-846). This paper identifies various themes and describes meanings that silk as a literary motif helps to express.
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Feministiska budskap hos Jane Austen : En studie av samhällskritik i Northanger Abbey och dess relevans som undervisningsmaterial i kursen svenska 2 / “Feministic Messages by Jane Austen” : A Study of Social Criticism in Northanger Abbey and its Relevance as a Study Object in the Course Swedish 2Backman, Rebecka January 2019 (has links)
Jane Austen har blivit en av den engelskspråkiga litteraturens klassiska författare med sina romaner som handlar om unga kvinnor under det sena sjuttonhundratalet och det tidiga artonhundratalet. En av hennes första romaner, Northanger Abbey (1818) är ett av hennes mest humoristiska och ironiska verk. Den är inte en av hennes mest omtalade eller kändaste romaner men det är, med mina egna ord, en av de mest underskattade av hennes romaner. I Northanger Abbey reflekteras de faktiska klasskillnader, könsroller och könsförväntningar som fanns i Englands samhälle under hennes samtid. Med hjälp av genusteori med en biografisk förankring undersöker denna uppsats hur Austen använder satir för att kritisera samhället. Genom en djupgående analys av romanen finner uppsatsen att samhällskritik kan skönjas, där kvinnans förutsättningar, roll och ställning, sociala konventioner, patriarkatet och samtidens populära genre gotiken kritiseras. Uppsatsen kommer fram till att Austen använder humor, ironi och parodi som ett verktyg för att kunna säga vad som var offentligt otillåtet och romanen kritiserar därmed samhällsnormerna. Austen har skrivit en roman som innefattar ett flertal budskap och visar feministiska förtecken då hon tar ståndpunkt för kvinnors rättigheter och ställning. Genom dess rika omfång visar sig Northanger Abbey vara ett lämpligt material att använda i skolan för att främja elevernas utveckling och lärande, i muntlig likväl som skriftlig form. / Jane Austen novels deals with young women in the late eighteenth century and early twentieth century and have made her one of the classical writers of the English literature. Northanger Abbey (1818), one of her first novels, is also one of her most humoristic and ironic productions. Although, it is not her most mentioned or most famous novels but it is, in my own words, one of her most underestimated novels. In Northanger Abbey, the actual class differences, gender roles and gender expectations that existed in England during her time are reflected. This paper uses gender theory with a biographic foundation to examine how Austen uses satire to criticize society. Through an analyze of the novel, social criticism can be distinguished where women’s conditions, their role and position as well as social conventions, the patriarchy and the popular gothic genre are criticized. The essay concludes that Austen uses humor, irony and parody as tools to be able to say what was publicly forbidden to say and the novel thereby criticizes the social norms. Austen has written a novel that includes a number of messages and shows feministic signs as she takes a stand for women’s rights and status. Through Northanger Abbey’s rich content it proves to be a suitable material to use in the school to promote the students’ development and learning, in oral as well as written form.
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Honoré de Balzac e Camilo Castelo Branco: a crítica social oitocentista em perspectiva comparada / Honoré de Balzac and Camilo Castelo Branco: nineteenth-century social criticism in comparative perspectiveCatelani, Ana Luísa Patricio Campos de Oliveira Lenk 08 May 2013 (has links)
Como sabemos, as reflexões do filósofo político e contratualista Jean-Jacques Rousseau tornaram-se referência para muitos escritores que o sucederam, principalmente no que concerne às suas considerações a propósito da vida em sociedade, ambiente vil que degenera o homem, ser bom e piedoso por natureza. Tratase do célebre conceito rousseauniano do bom selvagem, teoria cuja repercussão pode ser encontrada em obras de muitos autores do período oitocentista, entre as quais podemos destacar a do romancista francês Honoré de Balzac e a do ficcionista português Camilo Castelo Branco. Isto porque, a partir de um estudo comparativo realizado entre volumes balzaquianos e camilianos, levantou-se a hipótese de que estes escritores, ao tecerem suas críticas sociais, dialogam com a mencionada teoria de Rousseau, muito embora cada um o faça a seu modo e finde por concatenar mundividências literárias distintas, únicas e inovadoras, que particularizam, de forma marcante, ambos os cânones ficcionais. Assim posto, e levando em consideração a ausência de estudos críticos a esse respeito, nosso intento é o de analisar uma questão inédita no que concerne à comparação entre a ficção balzaquiana e a camiliana: a diferente concepção que os respectivos narradores apresentam acerca dos efeitos sociais no homem, a partir de um diálogo estabelecido por ambos com o conceito rousseauniano do bom selvagem. Vale ressaltar que o estudo comparativo aqui proposto seguirá alguns pressupostos básicos da Literatura Comparada, sendo o principal deles a busca pelas particularidades de cada literatura (Cf. ABDALA Jr., 2003). / As we know, the reflections of the political and contractualist philosopher Jean- Jacques Rousseau became reference for many writers who succeeded him, mainly as concerns the considerations regarding the life in society, a vile ambience that degenerates man, a good and pious living being by nature. This is the renowned Rousseaunian concept of the noble savage, theory that can be found reverberated in many works of 19th century authors, among which we can highlight the one of the French novelist Honoré de Balzac and the one of the Portuguese fictionist Camilo Castelo Branco. That is because, from a comparative study realized between Balzacian and Camilian works, we hypothesized that these writers dialogue, as they construct their social criticisms, with the mentioned Rousseaus theory, although each one does it in his own way and ends by concatenating distinct literary worldviews, unique and innovative, that particularize, markedly, both of the fictional canons. Therefore, and taking into consideration the absence of critical studies regarding this, our intent is to analyze an unprecedented issue concerning the comparison between Balzacian and Camilian fiction: the different conception the narrators present about the social effects in man, through a dialogue established by both of them with the Rousseaunian concept of the noble savage. It is worth to stress that the comparative study proposed here will follow some basic assumptions of Comparative Literature, the main one being the research for the particularities of each literature. (Cf. ABDALA Jr., 2003).
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Die Ironie in Gottfried Kellers „Sinngedicht“Schneider, André 25 February 2014 (has links)
Im letzten Novellenzyklus Kellers wird vielerlei unterschwellige Kritik an Gesellschaftszuständen im deutschsprachigen Raum und an typischen zeitgenössischen Vertretern diverser Gesellschaftsschichten zu einem großen Teil über die Ironie transportiert. Vorkommen des ironischen Sprechens werden verknüpft mit Momenten narrativer Ironie und erscheinen eng an das Typusmotiv des Sonderlings geknüpft, das im „Sinngedicht“ wiederholt eingesetzt wird. Die Untersuchung orientiert sich daher insbesondere an den männlichen Vertretern der narrativ inszenierten Gesellschaftsordnung, deren Ironisierung oft erst bei näherer Hinsicht ins Auge fällt. Nachdem Preisendanz Kellers Dichtkunst nachvollziehbar mit dem bürgerlichen Humor identifiziert, ergibt sich dennoch an vielen Stellen der Sinngedichtforschung die Wahrnehmung einer Ironie, deren genauere Untersuchung bisher jedoch ausgeblieben ist. So versteht sich die vorliegende Arbeit als eine Vertiefung der Einordnung des Keller-Werkes in die Kategorie des bürgerlichen Humors. Thematisch erfolgt, neben der Konzentration auf die angesprochene Gesellschaftskritik, die Analyse ironischer Sequenzen auf dem Gebiet des Geschlechterdiskurses, mit dem sich ebenfalls Amrein, Bischof und Rácz in jüngerer Zeit auseinandergesetzt haben. Da ironische Elemente eine nicht unerhebliche Rolle in Figurendialogen – insbesondere auf der Ebene der Rahmenhandlung zwischen den beiden Hauptfiguren Reinhart und Lucie – zu spielen scheinen, kommen bei der Untersuchung verbalironischer Einheiten auch linguistische Theorien zum Einsatz. Hier orientiert sich die Vorgehensweise an Preukschat, der in seiner Monografie zum ‚Akt des Ironisierens’ (2007) eine dezidierte Untersuchung auch literarischer Werke mit sprachwissenschaftlichen Mitteln fordert. Auf diese Weise ist das Zusammenspiel von verbaler und epischer Ironie nachzuzeichnen, das als besonderes Dichtungsverfahren des Novellenzyklus aufgefasst werden kann. / In Keller’s last novella cycle, social conditions in the German-speaking world and stereotypical representatives of various social levels from that time are subliminally criticized through the far-ranging use of irony. Examples of ironic speech are coupled with moments of narrative irony and appear to be closely connected to the character motif of the Eccentric, which occurs repeatedly in “Sinngedicht”. Therefore, this analysis focuses especially on the male representatives of the narratively orchestrated social order, whose ironic treatment is often only noticeable upon closer examination. Taking into account Preisendanz’s understandable juxtaposition of Keller’s poetry with bourgeois humor, poetic analysis nevertheless leaves an impression of irony, a precise analysis of which has wanted until now. Thus, this work is a broadening of the classification of Keller’s work in the category of bourgeois humor. Additionally to the focus on the aforementioned social critique, there follows the topical analysis of ironic sequences on the subject of gender relations, which Amrein, Bischof, and Rácz have also recently examined. Since ironic elements seem to play a not unsubstantial role in character dialogues – especially at the level of the framing story between the two main characters, Reinhart and Lucie – linguistic theory is also used in the analysis of verbally ironic units. This follows the approach of Preukschat, who used linguistic methods to provide a clear examination of literary works in his monograph ‘Akt des Ironisierens’ (2007). In this way, the interplay between verbal and epic irony, which can be understood as a specific poetical device of this novella cycle, can be traced.
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Honoré de Balzac e Camilo Castelo Branco: a crítica social oitocentista em perspectiva comparada / Honoré de Balzac and Camilo Castelo Branco: nineteenth-century social criticism in comparative perspectiveAna Luísa Patricio Campos de Oliveira Lenk Catelani 08 May 2013 (has links)
Como sabemos, as reflexões do filósofo político e contratualista Jean-Jacques Rousseau tornaram-se referência para muitos escritores que o sucederam, principalmente no que concerne às suas considerações a propósito da vida em sociedade, ambiente vil que degenera o homem, ser bom e piedoso por natureza. Tratase do célebre conceito rousseauniano do bom selvagem, teoria cuja repercussão pode ser encontrada em obras de muitos autores do período oitocentista, entre as quais podemos destacar a do romancista francês Honoré de Balzac e a do ficcionista português Camilo Castelo Branco. Isto porque, a partir de um estudo comparativo realizado entre volumes balzaquianos e camilianos, levantou-se a hipótese de que estes escritores, ao tecerem suas críticas sociais, dialogam com a mencionada teoria de Rousseau, muito embora cada um o faça a seu modo e finde por concatenar mundividências literárias distintas, únicas e inovadoras, que particularizam, de forma marcante, ambos os cânones ficcionais. Assim posto, e levando em consideração a ausência de estudos críticos a esse respeito, nosso intento é o de analisar uma questão inédita no que concerne à comparação entre a ficção balzaquiana e a camiliana: a diferente concepção que os respectivos narradores apresentam acerca dos efeitos sociais no homem, a partir de um diálogo estabelecido por ambos com o conceito rousseauniano do bom selvagem. Vale ressaltar que o estudo comparativo aqui proposto seguirá alguns pressupostos básicos da Literatura Comparada, sendo o principal deles a busca pelas particularidades de cada literatura (Cf. ABDALA Jr., 2003). / As we know, the reflections of the political and contractualist philosopher Jean- Jacques Rousseau became reference for many writers who succeeded him, mainly as concerns the considerations regarding the life in society, a vile ambience that degenerates man, a good and pious living being by nature. This is the renowned Rousseaunian concept of the noble savage, theory that can be found reverberated in many works of 19th century authors, among which we can highlight the one of the French novelist Honoré de Balzac and the one of the Portuguese fictionist Camilo Castelo Branco. That is because, from a comparative study realized between Balzacian and Camilian works, we hypothesized that these writers dialogue, as they construct their social criticisms, with the mentioned Rousseaus theory, although each one does it in his own way and ends by concatenating distinct literary worldviews, unique and innovative, that particularize, markedly, both of the fictional canons. Therefore, and taking into consideration the absence of critical studies regarding this, our intent is to analyze an unprecedented issue concerning the comparison between Balzacian and Camilian fiction: the different conception the narrators present about the social effects in man, through a dialogue established by both of them with the Rousseaunian concept of the noble savage. It is worth to stress that the comparative study proposed here will follow some basic assumptions of Comparative Literature, the main one being the research for the particularities of each literature. (Cf. ABDALA Jr., 2003).
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Ciência e literatura em Lima BarretoTavares, Eva Volite Coelho 11 March 2015 (has links)
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Previous issue date: 2015-03-11 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This work analyses Brazilian writer Lima Barreto with focus on his scientific view, as shown in his work, and investigates the relationship between Literature and History of Science. It took Triste fim de Policarpo Quaresma (Sad end of Policarpo Quaresma) as a reference, as well as chronicles and other author's productions, regarding the recognition of a dialogue between reality and fiction. It also investigated the writer s passage through the Polytechnic School of Rio de Janeiro and his readings and reflections on certain aspects of the scientific knowledge in vogue, motivated by intellectual sharing with literate men of his time. The analyzed period, between the end of the XIXth and the early XXth century, in the city of Rio de Janeiro, shows a context marked by a belief in progress and appreciation of science that had a profound influence on the creation of the author s characters. However, being a dissonant voice of his time, Lima Barreto reveled a distrust on the modernization discourse at the time and positioned himself critically towards the Republican regime based on positivist ideas / Este trabalho aborda a visão científica do escritor brasileiro Lima Barreto presente em sua obra e procura, com base nela, investigar a relação entre Literatura e História da Ciência. Para essa abordagem, tomou-se como referência Triste Fim de Policarpo Quaresma, bem como crônicas e outras produções do autor, com vistas ao reconhecimento de um diálogo entre realidade e ficção. Investigou-se também a passagem do escritor pela Escola Politécnica do Rio de Janeiro e suas leituras e reflexões sobre determinados aspectos do conhecimento científico em voga, motivadas pelo compartilhamento intelectual com homens letrados de seu tempo. O período abordado, situado entre o final do século XIX e o início do século XX, na cidade do Rio de Janeiro, mostra um contexto que foi marcado pela crença no progresso e valorização da ciência e exerceu profunda influência na caracterização dos personagens do autor. Porém, sendo uma voz dissonante de seu tempo, Lima Barreto evidenciou em sua obra uma desconfiança acerca do discurso de modernização vigente na época e posicionou-se de forma crítica diante do regime republicano apoiado em ideias positivistas
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Transforma??es no campo da moda: cr?tica ?tica e est?tica / Changes in fashion: criticism, ethics and aestheticsBERLIM, Lilyan Guimar?es 30 September 2016 (has links)
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Previous issue date: 2016-09-30 / CAPES / The fashion and textile industry is one of the largest business segment in the world. However, this segment has been the subject of ethics, aesthetics and environmental criticism, especially so-called "fast fashion", a high-speed production system, integrated with information technology, which manages releases, sales, inventory and manufacturing clothes, turning datasheets of garments in a finished product within points of sale in a few days. The fast fashion phemomenon settled in the fashion industry in the last decades of the twentieth century as a result of the dynamics of global capitalism in search of lower cost and reduced production, time, space, distribution and sale. The fast fashion, however, has been socially criticised as it?s based on precarious work and promoting hyper consumption which leads to quick disposal of clothing, consumption of natural resources at breakneck scale and also the standardization of the body and spread a subtle homogenization of the appearance, promoted by the fashion media. The research has mapped and analysed the relationship between fashion and social criticism, with emphasis on appearance, construction and current settings of the ethical criticism and aesthetics to fast fashion. It has also mapped and analysed some answers that the market has given to such criticism, as well as alternative proposals built by various social groups, in particular the slow fashion movement: its concept, ideas and production proposals, consumption and engagement. From the politicization of consumption and macro trends that are configured as a socio-cultural background of the fashion consumption trends, we see the various forms of expression of these criticisms and seek to understand its incorporation into the market. For this, we rely on the theoretical framework of Boltanski and Chiapello (2009), which considers the incorporation of criticism as necessary to the moral justification of capitalism and its maintenance. The results indicate that the criticisms are expressed and are incorporated by fashion design professional, in consumption practices. in the pursuit of sustainable business forms, creating value associated with the shared economy, the adoption of Corporate Social Responsibility, in changes in production processes and the use of lower-impact materials. We also verified that as a way of incorporating criticism as a counterpoint to the hegemonic practices of production and consumption, the movement "slow fashion" proposes not only deceleration time of production and consumption of clothes, but also empowerment and political activism in the area of fashion design. In conclusion, the research identified as a response to criticism, the existence of changes in the sector and the growing ethicization fashion. / A moda e a ind?stria t?xtil constituem um dos maiores segmentos de neg?cios do mundo. Associadas simbioticamente, chamamos este campo de ind?stria da moda. O segmento vem sendo alvo de cr?ticas ?ticas, est?ticas e ambientais. Estas cr?ticas se dirigem, principalmente, ao que tem sido chamado de ?moda r?pida?, ou fast fashion, um sistema de produ??o de alta velocidade, integrado ?s tecnologias de informa??o, que gerencia lan?amentos, vendas, estoques e manufatura de roupas, transformando fichas t?cnicas de pe?as de vestu?rio em um produto acabado dentro de pontos de venda em poucos dias. O fast fashion ? uma consequ?ncia das din?micas do capitalismo global em busca do menor custo, em um menor espa?o de tempo de fabrica??o, distribui??o e venda, baseando-se em trabalho prec?rio (muitas vezes em condi??es an?logas ? escravid?o), na promo??o do hiperconsumo e do descarte r?pido de roupas e, consequentemente, do consumo de recursos naturais em escala vertiginosa, com impactos ambientais de grande extens?o, e, ainda, na padroniza??o do corpo e na difus?o de uma sutil homogeneiza??o do parecer, promovida pelas m?dias de moda. Tais pr?ticas se estabeleceram na moda nas ?ltimas d?cadas do s?culo XX como consequ?ncia das transforma??es do capitalismo global. A presente pesquisa mapeou e analisou as rela??es entre a moda e a cr?tica, o surgimento, a constru??o e as atuais configura??es da cr?tica ?tica e est?tica ao fast fashion e as respostas que o mercado vem dando ?s mesmas, assim como as propostas alternativas constru?das por segmentos do mercado, em especial, o movimento ?moda lenta?, ou slow fashion: seu conceito, ideias e propostas de produ??o, consumo e engajamento. A partir da an?lise da politiza??o do consumo e das macrotend?ncias, que se configuram como um pano de fundo sociocultural ?s tend?ncias de consumo, verificamos a express?o destas cr?ticas e sua incorpora??o pelo corpo social; identificamos a? uma chave explicativa para a incorpora??o das cr?ticas pelo mercado de moda, corroborando com o quadro te?rico de Boltanski e Chiapello (2009), que entende a incorpora??o das cr?ticas como necess?ria ? justifica??o moral do capitalismo e sua manuten??o. Os resultados indicaram que tanto o corpo social quanto o mercado expressam e incorporam as cr?ticas nas pr?ticas de consumo de moda; na busca por formas de novos neg?cios sustent?veis; na cria??o de valor associado ? economia compartilhada; na ado??o da Responsabilidade Socioambiental Empresarial e da ?tica nos neg?cios; nas altera??es em processos produtivos; e no uso de mat?rias primas menos impactante. Verificamos tamb?m que, como incorpora??o das cr?ticas e como contraponto ?s pr?ticas hegem?nicas de produ??o e consumo, o movimento slow fashion prop?e n?o apenas a desacelera??o do tempo de produ??o e consumo de roupas, mas tamb?m um empoderamento e ativismo pol?tico na ?rea do design de moda, tanto na produ??o quanto no consumo. A pesquisa identificou a exist?ncia de altera??es no setor em fun??o da incorpora??o das cr?ticas, em especial a crescente eticiza??o da moda.
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