Este trabalho procura localizar as práticas de inovação no interior das redes sociais que constituem sistemas produtivos e mercados de moda. Encontramos a coordenação complexa de uma ampla rede produtiva da indústria têxtil e do vestuário, que rompia com a lógica do produto rotineiro das décadas anteriores, num contexto de estagnação da atividade econômica nacional e da pressão competitiva crescente do mercado externo. Localizamos nas redes sociais que articulam os diversos segmentos da indústria do vestuário e da moda as fontes do dinamismo e da inovação: a) os processos de inovação se realizam no interior das empresas, mas são gerados a partir das relações que estas mantêm com múltiplos atores; b) a mobilização em torno das semanas de moda (São Paulo Fashion Week) propicia o contato entre estes atores e estabelece novos meios de coordenação de todo sistema produtivo do vestuário e do têxtil; c) redes desta natureza só se constituem e se reproduzem na diversidade sócio-econômica típica do ambiente metropolitano; d) segmentos produtivos inovadores se desenvolvem com base em laços fracos, que geram pontes entre mundos produtivos e culturais portadores de conhecimentos e informações heterogêneos; e) os laços fortes foram, entretanto decisivos na reestruturação da indústria em São Paulo, ao longo da década de 90 e deram sobrevida aos fabricantes de moda. / This research situates the innovation process of the fashion industry and the fashion market embedded in social networks. We have found a complex coordination process of a wide network of textile and garment producers, amid a difficult transition from mass production to other forms of organization, during the economic stagnation of the 80s and early 90s. Social networks were the main source of the innovation turn and the ability to produce fashionable goods. Our conclusions are: a) Innovation are produced within firms, but are too generated in the multiple relationships they maintain with external actors. b) The Fashion Weeks develop and intensify the contact between these actors and estabilish new modes of coordination. c) Networks of this kind develop within metropolitan environments. d) These innovative production systems are embedded in weak social ties that bridge different economic and cultural worlds. e) Strong ties were nevertheless important in the adjustment process of the industry in São Paulo during the 90s.

Influencer marketing is an important tool to change and reinforce consumers brand associations. Influencers post content that is trying to create intended brand associations. The consumers’ reactions then decide what the realized brand associations are. The purpose of this study is to explore through semiotic and netnographic Instagram analysis how influencer marketing affects brand associations in the sports fashion industry. This research has a qualitative methodology and has used semiotic and netnographic analysis to explore the case of Gymshark. The research consists of 100 analyzed posts from Instagram influencers related to Gymshark. It was found that influencers’ personal brands affect the realized brand associations. Also, gender has an affecting role on both, intended and realized brand associations.

Titel: En detaljhandel i förändring - En studie om klädbranschens förändring, utveckling och framtid. Författare: Johanna Bengtsson, Robyn Nagy och Emelie Nilsson Handledare: Leif Rytting Examinator: Kaisa Lund Kurs: Kandidatuppsats 15hp. Företagsekonomi III - Marknadsföring. Turismprogrammet, Linnéuniversitetet, HT 2017. Syfte och forskningsfrågor Studiens syfte är att undersöka utvecklingen av olika distributionskanaler samt framtida förändring inom klädbranschen. Studien tar utgångspunkt i ett företagsperspektiv.   Med syftet som bakgrund har vi formulerat följande forskningsfrågor med fokus på klädbranschen. 1. Vad är karakteristiskt för distributionskanalerna inom dagens klädhandel? 2. Hur anser representanter för handeln och konsulter inom området att fysiska butiker och e-handeln kan komma att utvecklas i framtiden?   Metod Studien baseras på en kvalitativ fallstudie på den svenska klädbranschen. Ansatsen grundar sig i en deduktion med inslag av induktion. Den empiriska datan består av åtta semistrukturerade intervjuer med företrädare och konsulter inom detaljhandeln samt klädbranschen.   Slutsatser Resultatet av studien pekar på att kunden är det centrala inom klädbranschen, att allt som utvecklas och förändras är för kundens köpprocess. Att integrera sina distributionskanaler har lyfts fram som ett måste för klädföretag och även att fysiska butiker måste erbjuda en köpupplevelse som är mer än shopping. Men studien har också visat på en problematik mellan kundens krav på låga priser och samtidigt på hållbarhet. / Title: A retail in change - A study on the fashion industry's change, development and future. Authors: Johanna Bengtsson, Robyn Nagy och Emelie Nilsson Tutor: Leif Rytting Examiner: Kaisa Lund Subject: Bachelor thesis 15 credits. Business administration III - Marketing. Tourism studies, Linnaeus University, Fall 2017. Purpose and research question The purpose of this study is to investigate the development of different distribution channels, as well as the changing future of the fashion industry. The study´s starting point is from an enterprise perspective.   With the purpose as a background, we have formulated the following research questions focusing on the fashion industry. 1. What is characteristic of the distribution channels in today's clothing trade? 2. How do representatives of trade and consultants in the area expect physical stores and e-commerce to develop in the future?   Method This study is based on a qualitative case study in the fashion industry. It utilises deductive approach whilst also incorporating some inductive aspects. The empirical data consists of eight semi structured interviews with representatives and consultants in the retail and fashion industry.   Conclusion The result of the study suggest that the customer is the centre of the fashion industry, which means that everything that develops and changes is for the customer's buying process. Integrating their distribution channels has been highlighted as an importance for clothing companies and also that physical stores need to offer a shopping experience that is more than just shopping. However, the study also demonstrates the problem of meeting both the customer’s demands of low prices and at the same time on sustainability.

O estudo aborda a utilização das redes sociais como plataforma de comunicação das micro e pequenas empresas de confecção. A pesquisa se torna relevante por discutir temas importantes na atualidade: comunicação de marketing por meio de redes sociais e micro e pequenas empresas de confecção, justificando-se ainda, pela dificuldade que as micro e pequenas empresas apresentam de realizar ações de comunicação de marketing devido ao elevado investimento que as mídias tradicionais exigem. A proposta do estudo é identificar como as micro e pequenas empresas de moda estão utilizando as redes sociais para a comunicação com seu público consumidor. Para atender a esse objetivo foram definidos os seguintes passos: (a) Identificar um panorama geral da utilização das redes sociais pelas micro e pequenas empresas de moda; (b) Mapear as ações desenvolvidas no Facebook por essas empresas; (c) Verificar a resposta dos usuários em relação às publicações das empresas;(d) Levantar as postagens dos usuários nas fan pages das empresas; (e) Identificar o potencial de propagação das mensagens. A pesquisa realizada foi de caráter exploratório, qualitativo e descritivo. Os dados foram coletados em dois momentos, uma observação não participante das páginas das empresas selecionadas e a aplicação de questionário nos gestores destas. A análise dos dados permitiu observar que embora a literatura apresente como vantagem da utilização das redes sociais o contato mais próximo com o consumidor facilitando assim o diálogo com baixo investimento, na realidade o que se observa são publicações com linguagem informal concentradas na divulgação dos produtos, tornando a fan page uma plataforma que se assemelha a um catálogo virtual, possibilitando inclusive a comercialização. A interação do usuário com a página concentra-se nas curtidas. Quando estes comentam ou publicam espontaneamente costumam abordar assuntos como: interesse em compra, elogio a marca e reclamações. / The research discusses the use of social networks as a communication platform for micro and small enterprises of the textile industry. The search is relevant to discuss todays important subjects: marketing communication through social networks in micro and small enterprises of the textile industry, justifying for the difficulty of micro and small enterprises to do actions of marketing because of the high investments that traditional medias require. The researchs proposal is identify how fashion micro and small enterprises are using social networks to communication with its customers. To achieve this target were defined the following steps: a) Identify an overview of the use of social networks by fashion micro and small enterprises; b) Map the developed actions taken by these companies on Facebook; c) Check the response from users regarding companies publication; d) Collect the posting by users on companies wall on Facebook; e) Identify the potential for programing the messages. This research had an exploratory, qualitative and descriptive character. The data base was collect in two moments, a non-participant observation of the social networks on companies pages and the application of a questionnaire with the companies managers. The data analyses allowed observing that although the literature presents as an advantage using social networks as close contact with the consumer, facilitating dialogue with low investment, actually what its observed is informal publications with informal language concentrated in disclosure of the products, making the fan page similar to a virtual catalog, sometimes even enabling the commercialization. The user interaction focuses on likes. When the user freely writes a comment ou something on the companies wall often approaches issues of interest, such as: buying, praise the brand and complaints.

In this qualitative study the buying activity for three smaller intermediaries in the Swedish fashion industry have been identified to compare similarities and differences. Further on we studied how CSR is integrated in the activity and which type of value these efforts create for the intermediary. The study was conducted through semi-structured interviews with CSR- and buying managers as well as a CSR- consultant who assists intermediaries in issues and strategies regarding CSR, to deepen our knowledge and gain further perspective of the area. The gathered empirical evidence has later been analyzed in connection with existing theories concerning CSR integration and value creation in order to reach a conclusion that also answers our research questions. The study has shown tendencies that CSR can be successfully integrated in an intermediary by letting it become a part of the company’s core activities and thereby permeate the entire organization. If the intermediary is successful with this part, value can be created in terms of brand strengthening and a good reputation as well as functioning as insurance for the future. We hope that this study can convey the importance of CSR for an intermediary and how it best can be integrated in the company’s buying activity.The following essay is written in Swedish. / I denna kvalitativa studie har arbetsprocessen vid inköp kartlagts för tre mindre mellanhänder i modebranschen för att jämföra likheter och skillnader. Undersökningen genomfördes med hjälp av semistrukturerade intervjuer med CSR- eller inköpsansvariga på respektive företag. Vidare har vi studerat hur CSR integreras i arbetsprocessen vid inköp och vilken typ av värde dessa ansträngningar skapar för mellanhänderna. För att fördjupa kunskapen och få ytterligare ett perspektiv på området intervjuades även en konsult som hjälper mellanhänder med frågor och strategier rörande CSR. Empirin har sedan analyserats med utgångspunkt i teorier om CSR, dess integration i arbetsprocesser och värdeskapande för att komma till en slutsats som svarar på våra forskningsfrågor. Studien har visat tendenser på att ett väl integrerat CSR uppnås genom att låta det bli till en del av kärnverksamheten och få engagemanget att genomsyra hela organisationen. Om mellanhanden lyckas med det kan det skapa värden i form av marknadsföring, bra rykte och fungera som en framtidsförsäkring. Vi hoppas att studien kan förmedla betydelsen av CSR för en mellanhand samt hur det på bästa sätt integreras i arbetsprocessen.

Background:   This research paper studies the potential of the Flourishing Business Canvas developed from the new research field of Business Models for Sustainability. Throughout the literature review arguments for the new concept of Business Models for Sustainability are made. Showing also the need for a tool that can help companies to transform towards a BMfS. The Flourishing Business Canvas is the first tool being developed at the moment and is based on the Business Model Canvas of Osterwalder and Pigneur. In this research data from reports from three different fashion companies is used to complete the Flourishing Business Canvasses and to evaluatethe applicability and usefulness of the canvas. Aim:   The purpose of this study is to investigate the potential of the newly developed Flourishing Business Canvas through case studies of secondary data research in the fashion industry. The research will evaluate the applicability and usefulness of the building blocks of the alpha-version of the Flourishing Business Canvas on the basis of information gathered from annual reports, sustainability reports, home pages and academic research. To contribute to the ongoing research of this tool, the research will try to suggest improvements where needed to make the tool suitable for the sustainable development of the fashion industry. Methodology:   The research is performed trough a qualitative research based on three small casestudies. The canvas is completed for three fashion companies, of three different market segments, based on published reports, media articles and research articles. The gaps in the canvas and the usefulness of the answers will be defined. Results:   The results of the research showed that the three companies follow the four mainarguments for a Business Model for Sustainability, but that what they express in their reports is notcompletely what they do in practise. The Flourishing Business Canvas for the three fashioncompanies was easy to complete as an outsider, this was mostly because they were transparentcompanies that published a lot of information. The questions in the Flourishing Business Canvasalso could show well the efforts on economic, social and environmental sustainability. Conclusion:   The Flourishing Business Canvas is a good tool for the fashion companies to show their economic, social and environmental sustainability in a schematic way and on strategic level. Although in general the canvas expresses that it shows true sustainability, two important elements of a sustainable fashion company; circularity and transparency, were not specifically defined.

Digitalisering är idag en av de mest inflytelserika trenderna inom modebranschen, vilket bland annat är starkt kopplat till att e-handel blivit ett allt mer självklart val för konsumenter. I samband med detta har konsumenter i allt större utsträckning börjat betrakta sitt eget hem som provrummet i den digitala butiken, vilket har lett till att returer är ett växande problem för e-handelsföretag. Samtidigt visar flertalet studier att de kunder som returnerar varor är mer lönsamma än de kunder som inte gör det och att en väl fungerande returhanteringsprocess ökar förtroendet för företaget. Returer bör därmed betraktas likt en tjänst som erbjuds kunden, där det finns möjlighet för företaget att påverka kundvärdet ytterligare. Vidare skapas kundvärde när företaget erbjuder en returtjänst som stödjer kundens köpbeteende, och därmed ses returhanteringsprocessen som en potentiell konkurrensfördel. Därför krävs det att e-handelsföretag idag arbetar strategiskt för att minska antalet returer och effektivisera returhanteringen genom sin returns management-process. Syftet med denna uppsats är därför att jämföra hur svenska e-handelsbaserade modeföretag inom varierande marknadsnivåer arbetar med returpolicy, gatekeeping och avoidance som en del av returns management-processen, samt hur dessa aktiviteter bidrar till respektive företags kundvärde. Med utgångspunkt i detta har en kvalitativ undersökning genomförts i form av semistrukturerade intervjuer med tre svenska e-handelsföretag inom modebranschen som en del av studiens primärdata. Då deltagarfrekvensen för intervjuerna blev lägre än förväntat, genomfördes även en kvalitativ dokumentstudie på företagens hemsidor samt på ytterligare sex e-handelsbaserade modeföretags hemsidor. Avslutningsvis genomfördes även en semistrukturerad intervju med ett svenskt företag, vilket erbjuder digitala produkter för e-handel inom returns management. Det insamlade datamaterialet analyserades med hjälp av tematisk analys utifrån de modeller som presenteras i den teoretiska referensramen: Porters (1985) värdekedja samt Rogers et al. (2002) returns management-modell vilken är uppdelad i en strategisk och en operationell process. Utifrån detta konstaterar studien att för att förbli konkurrenskraftig på den digitala modemarknaden, krävs det att företagets och marknadsnivåns kundlojalitet samt kundnöjdhet beaktas. Dessa faktorer, vilka relaterar till kundvärde, bör överstiga kostnaden för att erbjuda kunden en generös returpolicy i form av fria returer och längre ångerrätt. Vidare konstaterar studien att företagen bör fokusera på att ständigt förbättra sitt avoidance-arbete utifrån kundens efterfrågan, samt att gatekeeping-processen bör fullföljas utifrån vilken marknadsnivå företaget tillhör. Sammanfattningsvis leder avsaknaden av en digitaliserad returns management-process till ett mer reaktivt arbete snarare än proaktivt. Därmed konstaterar studien att e-handelsföretag bör implementera och anpassa digitalisering utefter dess storlek, förutsättningar samt marknadsnivå inom sin returns management-process. / c

Syfte: Studiens huvudsyfte är att undersöka hur företag kan inkludera slutkonsumenten i produktutvecklingen inom den textila värdekedjan och hur CRM kan förbättra detta. Metod: Arbetet har en deduktiv ansats och både en kvantitativ och kvalitativ forskningsmetod har använts. Datainsamlingen har skett genom djupintervjuer och enkätundersökning. Resultat och Slutsats: Studien har undersökt hur villiga slutkonsumenter är att vara med och påverka den textila produktutvecklingen till det bättre genom bidragande av egna idéer. Efter datainsamling, djupintervjuer och enkätundersökning visar studien att användning av CRM- villkor är nödvändigt att implementera för att textila aktörer ska fortsätta vara aktuella på marknaden. / Purpose: The main purpose of this study is to investigate how the customer influences the product development within the textile value chain and whether CRM can improve this. Method: The research approach of this thesis is deductive and both a quantitative and a qualitative research have been conducted. Data has been collected through a survey and in-depth interviews. Results and conclusions: The study has examined how willing consumers are to participate and influence the textile product development through their own ideas. After data collection, in-depth interviews and questionnaire surveys, the study shows that the use of CRM- conditions are necessary to implement for textile operators to remain up-to-date in the market

Denna forskningsstudie är en kvalitativt undersökande studie av svenska modeföretags hållbarhetskommunikation utifrån en utvärdering av konsultmodellen The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. Studien ämnar att undersöka hur The Seven Sins of Greenwashing fungerar som ett verktyg och ramverk för att analysera svenska modeföretags hållbarhetskommunikation samt om greenwashing förekommer i deras gröna marknadsföring med hjälp av The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. Studiens teoretiska perspektiv ämnar att på ett holistiskt sätt bemöta de forskningsbegrepp och studier som relaterar till greenwashing e.g legitimitet, isomorphism och decoupling. Föreliggande studie har valt att flytta fokus från kunden och kundens relation till hållbarhet för att istället kritiskt granska och analysera modevarumärkens gröna marknadsföring och kommunikation av modeprodukter. Därmed utgör organisationer studiens analytiska perspektiv, eftersom att allt fler modeföretag använder sig av grön marknadsföring som ett sätt att visa sig hållbara gentemot konsumenter. Vi har identifierat ett forskningsgap för kvalitativa studier som undersöker greenwashing utifrån ett organisatoriskt perspektiv, och med användandet av The Seven Sins of Greenwashing som ett analytiskt redskap inom modebranschen. Studiens syfte är att granska information och kommunikation som görs genom modeföretags hållbarhetsrapporter utifrån modellen The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. För att studera undersökningens syfte ställs följande frågeställningar; (RQ1) Hur fungerar The Seven Sins of Greenwashing som en teoretisk modell för att analysera stora kommersiella företag inom modebranschen? och (RQ2) Hur uttrycker svenska modeföretag sitt hållbarhetsarbete genom deras hållbarhetsrapporter? Förekommer greenwashing utifrån modellen The Seven Sins of Greenwashing? För att besvara studiens syfte och forskningsfrågor har studien utgått ifrån kvalitativa innehållsanalytiska metoder och tematisk kodning utifrån ett på förhand givet kategoriseringssystem av innehållsliga områden kopplade till The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. Studiens resultat kunde identifiera greenwashing i företagens hållbarhetsrapportering utifrån The Seven Sins of Greenwashing främst genom otydliga, vaga och irrelevanta påståenden som användes i hållbarhetsrapporterna för att uttrycka och beskriva företagens hållbarhetsarbete. Slutsatser dras om att TerraChoice (2009) konsultmodell The Seven Sins of Greenwashing fungerar som ett analytiskt verktyg och ramverk för denna typ av akademiska studier. Slutsatser kan också dras, genom användandet av modellen, att samtliga företag som ligger till grund för undersökningen på olika vis greenwashar i sin hållbarhetskommunikation. / This research study is a qualitatively investigative study of Swedish fashion companies sustainability communication based on an evaluation of the consulting model The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. The study aims to investigate how The Seven Sins of Greenwashing works as a tool and framework for analyzing Swedish fashion companies sustainability communication and whether greenwashing occurs in their green marketing with the help of The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. The theoretical perspective of the study aims to respond in a holistic way to the research concepts and studies that relate to greenwashing, e.g legitimacy, isomorphism and decoupling. In our study, we have chosen to shift the focus from the customer and the customer's relationship to sustainability to instead critically examine and analyze the fashion brands' green marketing and communication of fashion products. Thus, organizations constitute our analytical perspective, as more and more fashion companies use green marketing as a way to prove themselves sustainable towards consumers. We have identified a research gap for qualitative studies that examines greenwashing from an organizational perspective, and with the use of The Seven Sins of Greenwashing as an analytical tool within the fashion industry. The purpose of the study is to examine information and communication made through fashion companies sustainability reports based on the model The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. To study the purpose of this study the following questions are asked; (RQ1) How does The Seven Sins of Greenwashing work as a theoretical model for analyzing large commercial companies within the fashion industry? and(RQ2) How do Swedish fashion companies express their sustainability work through their sustainability reports? Does greenwashing occur based on the model The Seven Sins of Greenwashing? We have addressed the study's purpose and research questions with qualitative content analytical methods and thematic coding based on a pre-given categorization system of content areas linked to The Seven Sins of Greenwashing. The results of the study were able to identify greenwashing in the companies sustainability reporting based on The Seven Sins of Greenwashing mainly through unclear, vague and irrelevant statements that were used in the sustainability reports to express and describe the companies sustainability work. Conclusions are drawn that TerraChoice (2009) consulting model The Seven Sins of Greenwashing serves as an analytical tool and framework for this type of academic study. Conclusions can also be drawn, through the use of the model, that all companies that form the basis of this study in different ways greenwash in their sustainability communication.

This bachelor thesis explores a virtual try-on interface in the context of the fashion product category. It is argued that virtual representations of product offerings can stimulate consumers’ purchase intentions, and thus, enact an online transaction. The purpose is to investigate how market-based AR/VR influences the behavior of consumers along the customer journey. A qualitative research approach was undertaken to answer the exploratory question. The context of the empirical bachelor thesis is the virtual try-on Synsam Style Lab where two qualitative research methods were conducted. These methods consisted of a document study on Synsam Style Lab and three synchronous online focus group interviews that laid the foundation of the thematic analysis. The purpose of conducting these qualitative research methods was to shed light on whether or not Synsam Style Lab could facilitate consumers’ online buying decision process. Consumers who saw convenience in Synsam Style Lab often expressed reasons related to the theme Alleviate. On the contrary, if consumers interaction with Synsam’s virtual try-on yielded negative experience, then their reasons were often in connection with the theme Insufficiency.  The context of this bachelor thesis is restricted to the fashion eyewear segment and does not represent the total fashion industry. Only members of Generation Y, also known as millennials, participated in the synchronous online focus group interviews. Therefore, incorporating the perspectives of other demographics could contribute to a diversified discovery of findings. Previous research has not explicitly investigated the influence of AR/VR applications on consumers’ engagement in a fashion retail setting. Hence, this bachelor thesis provides new dimensions within the field of market-based AR/VR applications.