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The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers
to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is
provided by the
Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
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Showing 561 to 567 of 567 (0.016 seconds)| 561 |
Authenticity, performance and the construction of self : a journey through the terrestrial and digital landscapes of men's tailored dressBluteau, Joshua Max January 2018 (has links)
This thesis explores high-end and bespoke menswear, tailoring and fashion, asking the question - why do some men choose to spend large sums of money to have clothes made for them? Using tailors and high-end menswear as a lens, this thesis unpacks how men construct their notion of self in the digital and terrestrial worlds through the clothes that they wear and the identities they perform. Based on twelve months' terrestrial fieldwork in London and twenty-four months' concurrent digital fieldwork with Instagram, this thesis examines notions of dress, performance and the individual across a multi-dimensional fieldsite set within a blended digital and terrestrial landscape. The fieldwork comprised visiting and interviewing tailors, and observing inside their workshops and at their fashion shows. In addition, the analyst-as-client built relationships with tailors, and constructed a digital self within Instagram through the publication of self-portraits and images of clothing. This thesis is presented in four chapters, flanked by an Introduction and Conclusion. These chapters move from an exploration of terrestrial research in the first two, to an analysis of digital research in the latter two. Five major motifs emerge in this thesis: the importance of the anthropology of clothing and adornment within western society; the nature of the individual in a digitised world; the difficulty in conducting western-centric fieldwork without an element of digital analysis; a methodological restructuring of digital anthropology; and the idea that a digital self can acquire agency. This thesis employs a pioneering blended methodology which brings together the fields of digital anthropology, visual anthropology and material culture to question how selves are constructed in a rapidly changing and increasingly digitised modernity. In conclusion, the thesis argues that individuals construct multiple digital selves and a sense of identity (around the notion of 'authentic individualism') that is illusory.
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3D laser scanning as a tool for Viking Age studiesNeiß (Neiss), Michael, Sabrina B., Sholts, Wärmländer, Sebastian K.T.S. January 2013 (has links)
Three-dimensional (3D) laser scanners are becoming increasingly more affordable and user-friendly, making 3D-modeling tools more widely available to researchers in various countries and disciplines. In archaeology, 3D-modeling has the particular advantages of facilitating the documentation and analysis of objects that are fragile, rare, and often difficult to access. We have previously shown that 3D-modeling is a highly useful tool for shape analysis of archaeological bone material, due to the high measurement accuracy inherent in the latest generation of 3D laser scanners (Sholts et al. 2010; 2011). In this work, we explore the utility of 3D-modeling as a tool for Viking Age artefact analysis. To test the usefulness of 3D-modeling when analyzing artefacts with a very complex morphology, we chose highly ornate Viking Age baroque shaped brooches as study objects. These baroque shaped brooches constitute a group of dress ornaments mainly encountered in eastern Viking Age Scandinavia. Due to their large cast and/or attached bosses they obtain an almost baroque appearance, hence their name (cf. Jansson 1984: p. 81). They appear in two major versions, i.e. circular or equal armed, and in two kinds of material, i.e. silver- and copper-based alloys. Because of the position of bronze brooches in burial contexts, it appears they were used to fasten the cape or shawl in the female dress (cf. Jansson 1984: p. 75ff., Aagård 1984: p. 96ff.; Neiß 2006, figs. 3, 4; Capelle 1962: p. 106). For the present work a recently excavated brooch from Denmark was analyzed, together with three Russian brooches with nearly iconic status in the field of Viking Age studies. In the three case studies, we investigated possible uses of 3D-modeling for artefact analysis, artefact reconstruction, and tool mark and motif analysis. Exploring the usefulness of 3D-modeling for these purposes allowed us to draw conclusions regarding how 3D-analysis can be best incorporated into future artefact analysis. In addition, the case studies allowed us to gain new insights about the baroque shaped brooches and their uses. / <p>Forskningsfinansiärer: Helge Ax:son Johnsons stiftelse, Svenska institutet (Visby-programmet), Kungliga vitterhets historie och antikvitets akademin (Montelius minnesfond); Svenska fornminnesforeningen</p> / 3D-laserskanning som verktyg vid vikingatidsstudier
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A Semperian Approach To Artificial Light As A Building MaterialKocaoglu, Nihan 01 February 2011 (has links) (PDF)
The aim of this study is to understand the purpose, employment and place of specific materials in general, and &ldquo / light&rdquo / in particular, in architectural production. This thesis is a critical reconsideration of light as a building material, encompassing all the metaphorical connotations that the term suggests: light versus heavy / &ldquo / art form&rdquo / versus &ldquo / core form&rdquo / &ldquo / figuration&rdquo / versus &ldquo / tectonic&rdquo / ornamentation versus construction / craft production versus structural logic and abstraction versus materiality. All these binary oppositions combine to provide a conceptual framework for a contemporary interpretation of &ldquo / light architecture&rdquo / . Apart from its visual qualities, light plays an essential role in the production of architecture revealing the architectural form, function, mass, texture and context. When considered as an architectural material, light also has the ability to transpose the building into an &ldquo / art form&rdquo / as a monumental object, and to provide a dematerialized reality. When speaking of architectural materials, an analysis of the tectonic aspects of architecture is a prerequisite. It was Gottfried Semper&rsquo / s seminal work that first introduced the rich terminology of the material qualities in the products of architecture. The term &ldquo / textile&rdquo / , as an abstract procedure of Semper&rsquo / s theory, leads to a shift from primitive fabrics to contemporary modulation techniques and becomes a crucial element in the evaluation of such key words as &ldquo / dress&rdquo / , &ldquo / mask&rdquo / , &ldquo / skin&rdquo / , &ldquo / membrane&rdquo / and &ldquo / pure form&rdquo / . Following the theory of Semper, &ldquo / textile&rdquo / can be considered as a starting point for the conceptualization of these key words. Through specific examples associated with light, The Bosphorus Bridge, The Dogan Media Centre, The Kunsthaus Graz and the Image Mill, this study aims to analyze the historical and the traditional materials introduced by Semper together with the contemporary and the modern materials inserted by Bernard Cache and suggests the introduction of light as a modern and contemporary material that may be applied to the abstract procedures defined by Semper as &ldquo / textile&rdquo / , &ldquo / ceramics&rdquo / , &ldquo / tectonics&rdquo / and &ldquo / stereotomy&rdquo / . An in-depth reading of Semper and those that followed him: Kenneth Frampton, Harry Francis Malgrave, Karl Bö / tticher, Wolfgang Hermann, Bernard Cache and Carolina A. van Eck, will provide a conceptual framework for the evaluation of the material qualities of light design in architecture.
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Dräkt och pose i porträtt : En analys av posens fiktion och dräktens avbildning i tre porträtt föreställande Herman Wrangel (1584 - 1643)Bredberg, Eva January 2017 (has links)
This study is concerned with portraiture as a roleplay and a strategy to communicate the sitter´s identity to affect the viewer. Focusing on the sitter´s pose and the depiction of dress, the study examines three portraits between 1624 and the 1630s, representing Herman Wrangel (1584–1643), Field Marshal and Councilor of the Realm. The analysis is based on the concept, the fiction of the pose, developed by Harry Berger Jr. The idea of Theatricality discussed by Hanneke H Grootenboer´s is also used. The results show that dress, details of dress and the pose which are significant for the identity of the sitter are depicted with emphasis. Therefore, the dress and the pose have a key role in the depiction of the sitter acting his identity. The sitter acts before the artist and in the long run before the beholder. The portrait of the nobleman becomes a monologue for the beholder who can confirm the nobility´s role in society. / Uppsatsen handlar om hur porträttmåleri som ett rollspel och en strategi för förmedling av den avporträtterades identitet till betraktaren. Tre porträtt från perioden 1624–1630, föreställande Herman Wrangel (1584–1643) fältmarskalk och riksråd, har analyserats med fokus på den avporträtterades pose och dräktens avbildning med stöd i begreppet the fiction of the pose, baserat på Harry Berger Jr teori. Vidare används begreppet teatrikalitet, som det diskuteras av Hanneke H Grootenboer. Undersökningen visar att dräkt och dräktdetaljer samt poser som är betydelsefulla, för den avporträtterades identitet, framställs med emfas. Därmed spelar dräkten och posen en viktig roll i den avporträtterades framställan. Den avporträtterade agerar inför konstnären och i förlängningen inför betraktaren. Porträttet av adelsmannen blir en uppvisning, en monolog inför betraktaren som kan bekräfta adelsmannens roll i den sociala hierarkin.
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‘One Dress – One Nation!’ : The societal implications of King Gustav III’s National Costume in late eighteenth-century Swedish Court SocietyCarlos, Raoul Christian January 2021 (has links)
This thesis explores the societal implications of Gustav III’s national costume in the context of Swedish court society during the late eighteenth century. With the aims of uncovering King Gustav III’s view of the National Costume and its role in Swedish court society, as well as how we can understand the National Costume’s meaning for the aristocracy in late eighteenth-century Sweden, this thesis presents a post-structural textual analysis of Gustav III’s (1806) REFLEXIONER, angående en ny nationel klädedrägt (Reflections concerning a new national costume) in order to uncover King Gustav III’s perception of and ideology behind the national costume. This is then juxtaposed with a similar analysis of a chapter from Hedvig Elisabeth Charlotta’s (1902) journal, representing an aristocratic counter-perspective. This thesis presents a previously unexplored sociological perspective in studying Gustav III’s National Costume. Departing from Norbert Elias’ work around the court society, arguments are made for the interpretation of the National Costume as an instrument in court ceremonial, at the king’s disposal, holding the potential to create a distance in power between the Swedish court nobility and the monarchy. Furthermore, it is argued that the National Costume represents an oppressive force to the Swedish court nobility as a social class.
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The hard-boiled detective: personal relationships and the pursuit of redemptionHoward, David George 19 July 2010 (has links)
Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / By start of the 1920s, the United States had seen nearly forty years of vast accumulations of wealth by a small group of people, substantial financial speculation and a mass change in the economic base from agricultural to industrial. All of this ended in 1929 in a crushing depression that spread not only across the country, but also around the world. Hard-Boiled detective fiction first reached the reading public early in the decade initially as adventure stories, but quickly became a way for authors to express the stresses these changes were causing on people and society. The detective is the center of the story with the task of reestablishing a certain degree of order or redemption. An important character hallmark of this genre is that he is seldom able to do this, or that the cost is so high a terrible burden remains. His decisions and judgments in this attempt are formed by his relationship with the people or community around him. The goal of this thesis is to look at the issues raised in the context of how the detective relates to a person or community in the story. For analysis, six books were chosen arranged from least level of personal relationship by the detective to the most intimate. The books are Red Harvest, by Dashiell Hammett, The Big Sleep, by Raymond Chandler, The Galton Case, by Ross MacDonald, Cotton Comes to Harlem, by Chester Himes, Devil in a Blue Dress, by Walter Mosley, and I, the Jury, by Mickey Spillane. In the study of these books, a wide range of topics are presented including political ideologies, corruption, racial discrimination and family strife. Each book provided a wealth of views on these and other subjects that are as relevant today as when they were written.
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Gemalte Gewandung im Florentiner Quattrocento / Ghirlandaios Tornabuoni-KapelleMerseburger, Maria 10 January 2018 (has links)
Die vorliegende Arbeit stellt für die Bildwissenschaften eine methodische Grundlage dar, Kleidung im Bild als Konstruktion zu begreifen und zu interpretieren. Anhand der eindrucksvollen Patronageprojekte der Familie Tornabuoni – einer gerade emporgestiegenen Kaufmannsfamilie im Umkreis der Medici – werden die Möglichkeiten und Grenzen von symbolischer Kommunikation in der Florentiner Frühneuzeit untersucht. Unter anderem über Symbole wurde die Position im Gesellschaftsgefüge des unsicheren frühneuzeitlichen Regierungsklimas immer wieder neu hergestellt und von Neuem ausgehandelt. Die gewählte Bildgarderobe ist dafür ein hervorstechendes Beispiel. / The thesis presents an art historical methodology that assesses clothing and its pictorial representations in order to interpret how material culture relates to social construction. Using as an example an impressive patronage project of the Tornabuoni family – a newly rich family of merchants in the circle of the Medici – reveals the possibilities as well as the limitations of symbolic communication through dress in early modern Florence. In addition to outward style, these subtle symbols helped to establish and renegotiate their bearer’s position in the shifting hierarchy of an uncertain political climate. By closely examining Tornabuoni commissions, the thesis demonstrates how clothing is a critical means of understanding social motivations and aspirations.
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