A presente Tese de Doutorado em Educação intitulada “Com que roupa eu vou? Embelezamento e Consumo na Composição dos Uniformes Escolares Infantis”, desenvolvida na Linha de Pesquisa Educação, Sexualidade e Relações de Gênero do PPGEDU da FACED/UFRGS teve como primordial foco de estudos pesquisar a produção das identidades de gênero femininas infantis escolarizadas marcadas pelo processo de pedofilização como prática social contemporânea. O estudo empreendido buscou responder em sua narrativa, mesmo que provisoriamente, a seguinte questão: de que forma as práticas de uniformização escolar infantil interferem no modo como as meninas investem, em seus corpos, padrões estéticos e corporais de embelezamento e consumo tão difundidos em nossa sociedade e propagados pela escola na constituição de suas identidades de gênero? Tendo como referenciais teórico-metodológicos os Estudos de Gênero e os Estudos Culturais em Educação, foram desenvolvidas entrevistas semiestruturadas com crianças e com profissionais da escola em questão, no intuito de coletar dados acerca do problema pesquisado. Desenvolvi, também, observações em momentos livres das crianças na escola num período aproximado de seis meses, registrados num caderno de anotações, com o intuito de problematizar, discutir e investigar o problema de pesquisa apontado. O estudo suscitou a compreensão de que as práticas de composição em torno dos uniformes escolares infantis, glamourosamente produzidas pela escola e propagadas pelas crianças estabelecem uma consistente relação entre consumo e embelezamento dos corpos, demarcando dois processos recorrentes em tais práticas: pertencimento e erotização autorizada. Em tal prática escolar foi possível também perceber a demarcação de discursos e representações sociais e culturais contemporâneos da importância do maciço investimento, desde a infância, nos corpos, na imagem e na aparência, reforçando a adesão das meninas na produção/composição de suas identidades de gênero. / The present doctoral thesis in Education entitled "What clothes should I wear? Beautification and Composition of Consumption in Children’s School Uniforms", following the research line in Education, Sexuality and Gender Relations (PPGEDU) at the College of Education (FACED) at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul (UFRGS) focuses on the production of the female child’s gender identities in school, which are characterized by the process of pedophilization as a contemporary social practice. The study aims to answer the following question, although temporarily: How can the use of school uniforms interfere in the way the girls are investing in their bodies, the aesthetic and body patterns of beautification and consumption, which are strongly publicized in our society and spread in the school formation of their gender identities? Based on the Gender Studies and Cultural Studies in Education as theoreticalmethodological referential, some semi-structured interviews were carried out with the children and the school staff in order to collect data. Written observations were also made during the children’s free moments at school over a period of approximately six months. The study raised the understanding that the practices of composition concerning schoolchildren uniforms, glamorously produced and promoted by the children themselves, establish a consistent relationship between consumption and body beautification, reinforcing two recurring processes in such practices: belonging and authorized eroticization. In this school practice it was also possible to realize the reinforcement of discourses and the contemporary cultural ad social representations in the importance of the massive investment, since childhood, in the bodies, the image and the appearance, reinforcing the adhesion of girls in the production/composition of their gender identities.

A indústria de confecção de vestuário transforma um tecido bidimensional em um artigo tridimensional. Embora existam vários métodos para unir as partes de um artigo de vestuário, a costura com linhas é o método mais utilizado. A costura é quem fornece resistência à peça, e nesse sentido, perde sua funcionalidade se por acaso romper os fios do tecido, ou ainda, se houver rompimento da linha, ou outro problema como esgarçamento, deslizamento do tecido ou da costura. A qualidade de uma costura é definida pelos seus desempenhos funcionais e estéticos. A norma ABNT NBR 9925:2009 estabelece as condições do ensaio que indica se a costura tem tendência a abrir-se mediante a aplicação de uma força; também aponta os tipos de agulhas, linhas e fios, e ainda indica a densidade de pontos e máquinas adequadas para a confecção dos corpos de prova que serão ensaiados. O objetivo deste trabalho é utilizar o planejamento de experimentos para estudar a possibilidade de ampliar dos valores de densidade de pontos por centímetro e espessuras das agulhas, propostos pela referida norma ABNT NBR 9925:2009 para verificar a costurabilidade de uniformes escolares. Foram selecionados no mercado três tecidos normalmente utilizados na confecção desses artigos; e em seguida, realizados os ensaios físicos de gramatura, determinação da densidade de pontos por centímetro e determinação do esgarçamento de uma costura padrão. O modelo estatístico escolhido foi o planejamento aleatorizado por níveis; e para a análise dos resultados foram utilizados a ANOVA (análise de variância), com intervalo de confiança de 95%, e o box plot. Os resultados obtidos indicam a viabilidade do uso do estudo proposto para a seleção da densidade de pontos e tipo de agulhas em função da aplicação do produto final. / The industry of making clothing becomes a two-dimensional fabric in a three-dimensional article. Although there are several methods to connect the parts of an article of clothing, the seam with lines is the most used method. The sewing is who provides resistance to the part and, in this sense, the seam loses its functionality if by chance breaking the wires of the tissue, or even if there is no line rupture, or another problem such as fraying, slip the fabric or sewing. The quality of a seam is defined by its functional performance and aesthetic. The ABNT NBR 9925:2009 establishes the conditions for the test that indicates if the seam has a tendency to open up through the application of a force and also indicates the types of needles, lines, wires, dot density and suitable machines for the manufacture of bodies of evidence to be tested. The objective of this work is to use the planning of experiments to study the possibility of expanding the density values of points per centimeter and thicknesses of needles, proposed by ABNT NBR 9925:2009 for the verification of sewability school uniforms. They were selected on the market three tissues normally used in the manufacture of these articles and the tests of physical weight, determination of the density of dots per centimeter and determination of the fraying of a sewing pattern. The statistical model chosen was the randomised trial planning by levels and for the analysis of the results were used for the ANOVA (Analysis of variance), with 95% confidence interval, and the box plot. The results indicate the feasibility of the use of the proposed study to selecting the density of stitches and needle type depending on the application of the final product.

Não consta resumo na publicação. / Abstract not available.

Many companies today are using some form of uniforms for employees. This research is an exploration of the role of uniforms in contributing to the embedding and transmitting of organizational culture. Culture is the experiences and common learning of the organization that results in shared values and beliefs. According to Schein (1985: 14) culture has three levels, namely: artifacts, values, and basic underlying assumptions. The first level of the culture consists of the physical constructs of the organization, and therefore includes the uniforms, which is the focus of this study. Schein (1985: 223) further proposes that culture can be embedded and transmitted through various mechanisms. The research was conducted in the constructivist paradigm, at a tertiary institution of higher learning in Eastern Cape, South Africa. To ensure triangulation, three sources of data were used, namely: documentation; observation; and both individual and focus group interviews. The researcher argues that uniforms played a role in the embedding of the sample organization’s three levels of culture, which were expressed in terms of Hofstede’s (1991: 07) culture dimensions. Firstly, the use of the different uniforms by different groups, as well as the ranking indicated by the uniforms, played a role in embedding the high power distance culture. Secondly, the symbolism of security portrayed by the uniform played a role in embedding the high uncertainty avoidance culture. Thirdly, it was found that the uniform created unity amongst groups, resulting in greater expression of collectivism. Fourthly, the use of sensible and practical uniforms plays a role in embedding the feminine culture where competitiveness is avoided and relationships are nurtured. Lastly, the uniform plays a possible role in transforming the culture from short-term to a long-term orientation that focuses on the future.

The analytical framework of enchanted objects has mainly been studied in the fields of anthropology and religion, but can equally be applied to fashion and dress. The aim of this thesis is to investigate the material process of enchantment through the fragments of count Carl Axel Lewenhaupt’s professional uniforms from fin de siècle Sweden. It further aims to uncover the myth(s) of noble masculinity by the theoretical perspectives of discipline and white masculinity. The thesis uses object analysis to dissect a Chamberlain uniform’s bicorn hat, a Hussar’s dolman jacket, and a Chamberlain court uniform (type B) and places them in assemblages of enchantment – the micro and macro settings that made the garments become powerful. Through the material splendour, elegance and sensory opulence of the garments, together with their placement in ceremonial, traditional, elevated and mythical environments, they could enchant nobility to symbolically remain dutiful, heroic and close to the King, even as noble power subsided. This thesis proposes a way in which dress may captivate senses even across the distance of history, and furthermore, exposes the process of material enchantment in the making of ideal and heroic masculinity, which is still relevant and alive in contemporary culture.

Approximately half of the public schools in the United States require uniforms or a formal dress policy and many are intended to reduce discipline problems and improve school climate. A suburban school district in Georgia recognized that there was an increase in discipline problems in their schools that affected the school climate. In an effort to promote school safety and improve climate, stakeholders at a district campus adopted a uniform policy. The purpose of this survey study was to examine the differences in perceived school climate between a district campus with a uniform policy and a similar campus with no uniform policy. The theoretical framework of this study was based on Maslow's hierarchy of needs. The American School Climate Survey-Teacher Version was sent electronically to all teachers from the 2 study sites. The final sample included 62 respondents, 32 from the school with uniforms and 30 from the school without uniforms. Mann-Whitney tests were used to test for differences in survey responses between the 2 groups. The climate of the school that required uniforms was rated significantly higher on 14 of the 25 survey items, including safety, reduced bullying, and improved student learning. There were no differences between group scores for the remaining survey items. Implications for positive social change include providing the findings to the local site as an initial step in investigating school climate and the possible impact of school uniforms. With increased information, the study district can make more informed decisions regarding the use of school uniforms, which might improve safety, reduce bullying, and improve student learning in the district.

Large scale crises require collaboration between a multitude of actors and power imbalances can hinder effective collaboration in times when rapidity and effectiveness is crucial. Using the theory of collaborative advantage, this thesis aimed to analyse individuals’ experiences of collaboration between uniformed and non-uniformed crisis management actors in Sweden. This study is empirically based on 14 semi-structured interviews with representatives from six different actors. The results illustrate how factors such as structures, the uniform, language, trust and relationships, and education, training, and exercise are essential to collaboration between uniformed and non-uniformed actors. The study concludes that uniforms, language, and knowledge and trust affect collaboration and is a source to power imbalances. However, through joint education, training, and exercises and an understanding of each actors’ needs, mandates, and structures, power imbalances may be mitigated and collaboration successful. / Storskaliga kriser kräver samverkan mellan en mängd aktörer och maktobalanser kan hindra effektiv samverkan i situationer då snabbhet och effektivitet är avgörande. Denna uppsats analyserar genom theory of collaborative advantage individers upplevelser av samverkan mellan uniformerade och icke-uniformerade krishanteringsaktörer i Sverige. Denna studie är empiriskt baserad på 14 semistrukturerade intervjuer med representanter från sex olika aktörer. Resultaten illustrerar hur faktorer som strukturer, uniform, språk, tillit och relationer samt utbildning, träning och övning är väsentliga för effektiv samverkan mellan uniformerade och icke-uniformerade aktörer. Studien drar slutsatsen att uniformer, språk, kunskap och tillit påverkar samverkan och är en källa till maktobalanser. Maktobalanser kan hanteras genom gemensam utbildning, träning och övningar och en förståelse för varje aktörs behov, mandat och strukturer och leda till framgångsrik samverkan.

No description available.

No description available.

Thesis (M. Tech. (Fashion, Dept. of Visual Arts and Design)--Vaal University of Technology / This study was contracted by the African Warrior Project of the South African National Defence Force (SANDF). The goal was to explore and describe fit in terms of ease of selected female military upper garments, namely the closely fitted dress jacket and the loosely fitted combat shirt issued by the SANDF. The objectives of this study were firstly, to determine and interpret the amount of tolerance that will comply with the functional requirements related to the activities and comfort of an optimum number of wearers and result in an aesthetically acceptable fit; secondly to analyse and interpret the suitability of the key dimensions used to determine the current size designation in terms of body shapes and gender; thirdly, to determine and interpret the relevance and the validity of the currently used sizing system with regard to representativeness of the current population's measurements. The findings indicated that satisfaction with fit was influenced by fit preferences. Insufficient as well as excess case in a particular location resulted in discomfort or restricted movement and an aesthetically unacceptable garment. Insufficient or excess ease at one location impacted on the comfort experienced in another location on the same horisontal level. Subjects wearing smaller sizes were satisfied with less ease than plus-sized subjects wearing larger sizes. The key dimensions used for the dress jacket and the combat shirt did not ensure sufficient ease at other locations. It was therefore recommended to include the waist and hip dimensions as key dimensions in the size designation to accommodate various body shapes and assist with size allocation. Garments for female wearers carmot be issued according to male body dimensions. The sizing system needs to be revised to represent the population's measurements. / ERGOnomics TECHnologies; Vaal University of Technology