This diploma thesis entitled "The history of guild crafts in a town Krupka" aims to bring the origin, development and functioning of craft guilds which operated in the town Krupka. The main aim of this diploma thesis is to analyze the content of guild orders, guild books and file material from different perspectives, which are described in detail in the chapters, in which the work is divided. The chapter sources and literature reflects the important archival sources related to guilds in a general scale for the territory of Krupka and the chapter also informs about the basic issued publications, that are thematically bind to the guild organizations, their development and functioning. The following section outlines the administrative development in the town Krupka. At the core is the chapter dealing with the guild craft in Krupka from different angles and perspectives. The annexes attached to this thesis is complemented with information referred to in the text of the work, and are composed mainly of namespaces of craftsmen.

本論文研究的動機，乃因於中國大陸自1978年改革開放後，經濟呈現高度成長，目前更是全球最大新興市場和製造工廠，工程塑膠材料的需求及市場亦隨著3C電子塑膠零件和汽車塑膠零件在中國大量製造而蓬勃發展。但是，中國地區還是有許多法律環境不健全且市場機制不成熟; 近來更因為勞工意識高漲及當地的政策改革，台商在大陸的生存壓力愈來愈大。本研究欲藉由個案公司一路從經銷、研發及經營兩岸與工廠業務的過程，藉此探討個案公司在經營兩岸業務時，是如何審視自身的能力與條件，以及外在環境的發展機會與威脅，依此根據制定一套可行的成長策略，以獲得一個良好的績效產出，期待協助個案公司整體營運績效的提升。除此，本研究亦期望經此個案研究，可提供學術探討與企業實務相關的參考，有助了解工程塑膠科技材料產業成長策略之實況、困難與相關因應之道。 本研究為促使文獻探討的內容，更具週延性; 所以，首先從工程塑膠材料產業發展面開始了解，繼而從擬定策略所需的策略觀點進行探討，最後再從企業成長策略的擬定作探討。 本研究為探索性的個案與文獻之研究，所採取的研究架構，以企業願景與定位及大陸的競爭方式為自變數，而以企業成長策略為應變數。而研究方法，主要採行文獻探討、個案研究與資料分析。 對於個案公司的分析，首先從個案公司的沿革與產品範圍進行說明，其次對個案公司營運與型態進行探討，再者對個案公司所處之競爭與地位進行分析，最後對個案公司如何因應未來進行分解與剖析。 所以，本研究提出對於個案公司未來成長策略擬定的建議，主要從成長方向與策略規劃兩方面提出： 1.成長方向的建議: 質感的創造、標準的符合、環保的落實、異業的 結盟。 2.策略規劃的建議：成本領導策略(水平整合，海外拓展，紅海)差異化策 略:(量身訂做，研發集中，藍海) 對於未來從事相關議題的研究，本研究建議可從研究資料的增加、研究方法的改進與研究方向的拓展，以促使本領域的研究更深入與完整。

"Reflection of Haute Couture in The Czech lands" deals with fashion in the second half of the 19th century and early 20th century in the Czech lands. Before confirmation of national independence in the form of Czechoslovak republic the Czech fashion was evolving between two opposing tendencies. First, there was acceptance of influence from abroad, especially from France, England and Germany particularly through fashion magazines, and second, there was an effort to preserve national originality. The target of this thesis is not the analysis of fashion trends in the Czech environment but analysis of fashion as a phenomenon linked to wider societal aspects, political affiliations, construction of national identity and specific, nearly missing position of Czech aristocracy. This thesis monitors the status of a tailor in the Czech lands, his struggle with the beginning of apparel production and compares his emplacement with the French tailors, also known as coutiers who have created an autonomous and independent status of the clientele already in the second half of the 19th century.

Heutzutage werden bereits klein- bis mittelformatige Fassadenplatten aus Textilbeton mit Flächen bis zu 6 m² im Bauwesen verwendet. Dabei werden die ca. 25 mm dicken Elemente mit netzartigen technischen Textilien aus AR-Glas bewehrt. In einem kürzlich abgeschlossenen Forschungsprojekt wurde eine großformatige Fassadenplatte aus Textilbeton mit einer Elementfläche von 12,2 m² entwickelt, die eine Plattendicke von nur 30 mm aufweist. Die Platte wurde mit zwei rückseitigen monolithisch verbundenen Betonstegen ausgesteift. Durch die Beschichtung der Textilien mit Epoxidharz konnten formstabile und formbare Bewehrungsstrukturen entwickelt werden, die Textilspannungen von bis zu 1400 N/mm² aufweisen. In einem Pilotprojekt wurden die Ergebnisse des Forschungsprojektes angewendet und ihre Praxistauglichkeit nachgewiesen. Der Artikel beschreibt das architektonische Konzept, gibt Hinweise zur konstruktiven Durchbildung und beschreibt Herstellverfahren der textilen Bewehrung und Fassadenplatte.

Les zéolithes représentent une importante classe de catalyseurs hétérogènes largement utilisées dans l’industrie. En effet, ce sont des catalyseurs de choix pour de multiples réactions grâce à leurs propriétés uniques largement modulables, à savoir leur forte acidité de Brønsted, leur grande surface spécifique, leur stabilité hydrothermique et leur sélectivité de forme. Cependant, la taille de leur micropores engendre des difficultés en terme de diffusion, réduisant ainsi leur potentiel catalytique. Ainsi, la conception sur mesure, en fonction de l’application finale, semble être une méthode très intéressante pour le développement de nouveaux catalyseurs zéolithiques.Les travaux réalisés au cours de cette Thèse ont pour objectif la conception de zéolithes à trois échelles : (i) au niveau du site actif en jouant sur la force acide et sur leur accessibilité, (ii) au niveau macroscopique par la taille des cristaux et (iii) au niveau du réacteur en les déposant sur divers supports. Ces différentes zéolithes ont été évaluées dans deux réactions acides : la chloration d’aromatiques et la conversion du méthanol en oléfines légères (MTO).Des zéolithes hiérarchisées ont été synthétisées selon diverses méthodes pré- ou post-Synthétiques et testées dans la chloration du nitrobenzène et du chlorobenzène. De plus, des cristaux « géant » de ZSM-5, préparés par voie fluorure, ont été évalués dans le MTO.La corrélation directe entre l’activité catalytique et les propriétés intrinsèques des zéolithes a permis de souligner les propriétés indispensables à chaque réactions. / Zeolites are aluminosilicate catalysts of great importance for the chemical industries. Their unique properties, i.e., strong Brønsted acidity, high surface area, high hydrothermal stability, and shape selectivity, combined with an extensive tunability, render them the candidate of choice in various reactions. Nevertheless, often only a fraction of their potential is exploited, due to access and diffusion limitation to/in their micropores. In this field, the rational design appears as a valuable method to design new zeolite catalysts, according to their targeted application.The work described in this Thesis aims in the design of zeolites at three levels: (i) acid site by playing on the acid strength and on the accessibility, (ii) microscopic scale by adapting the crystal size and (iii) reactor level by coating zeolite crystals on different supports. These as-Prepared zeolites were evaluated in two acid-Catalyzed reactions: the aromatics chlorination and the conversion of methanol in light olefins (MTO).Hierarchical zeolites were synthesized according to several pre- or post-Synthetic modifications and evaluated in nitro- and chlorobenzene chlorinations. Besides, “giant” ZSM-5 zeolites, prepared according to fluoride-Mediated route, as well as zeolite coatings on β-SiC, were tested in the MTO reaction.Thanks to a direct correlation between catalytic activities and intrinsic properties, optimal catalyst properties were highlighted in both reactions.

Nos travaux portent sur la scénarisation dans les environnements virtuels pour la formation. Nous nous intéressons particulièrement à la formation dans des environnements sociotechniques complexes comme par exemple la gestion des risques. Dans ces environnements, la variabilité des situations que les opérateurs peuvent rencontrer rend difficile la mise en place d'une formation exhaustive. Il est pourtant crucial d'offrir les moyens permettant l'entrainement à ces situations et les environnements virtuels peuvent apporter des solutions efficaces. En effet, ils peuvent offrir une grande liberté d'action et permettre un apprentissage de type essai-erreur. Le contrôle pédagogique de ces environnements peut alors permettre de personnaliser et d’adapter les contenus à chaque apprenant. Cependant, il est difficile pour les concepteurs d'environnements virtuels d'imaginer, de concevoir et décrire toutes les séquences d'actions et d'événements menant aux situations d'intérêt tout en autorisant une grande liberté d'action pour les apprenants. L'approche de description exhaustive se révèle trop coûteuse, voire vouée à l'échec. Pour palier au goulet d'étranglement de l'écriture et du codage des contenus, nous proposons de générer dynamiquement l'enchainement des situations d'apprentissage au sein d'une simulation. L'architecture TAILOR que nous proposons permet la scénarisation dynamique de chaque session d'apprentissage, en accord avec un modèle du parcours d'apprentissage, en utilisant des modèles à base de connaissances. Pour cela, nous avons tout d'abord proposé le langage \textsc{World-DL} permettant de produire du contenu scénaristique reconfigurable, adaptable et générique pour des environnements virtuels pour la formation. Ce langage permet à la fois de décrire le modèle du monde, les objectifs scénaristiques ainsi que de maintenir la base de connaissances liée à la simulation.Afin de ne pas s'appuyer sur une élicitation du domaine d'apprentissage, nous avons proposé un modèle de l'apprenant opérationnalisant la théorie de la Zone Proximale de Développement. Celui-ci repose sur un espace vectoriel de classes de situation auxquelles sont associées des valeurs de croyance sur la capacité de l'apprenant à gérer les situations qu'elles décrivent. La scénarisation que nous proposons est essentiellement intra-diégétique : elle s'intègre au monde simulé par l'environnement virtuel. Pour cela, nous proposons une méthode de génération dynamique et adaptative de situations d'apprentissage s'appuyant sur des modèles de l'activité et de la causalité inspirés d'analyses ergonomiques. Par ailleurs, les situations d'apprentissage générées sont articulées sous la forme d'une fiction grâce au processus de diégétisation inspiré du courant structuraliste de la sémiologie. Les travaux sur l'architecture TAILOR ont donné naissance au moteur du même nom au sein de la plateforme logicielle HUMANS. L'approche a été appliquée dans un environnement virtuel pour la formation des assembleurs en aéronautique. / This work addresses the issues of the specification of the scenario in virtual environment for training. We especially address adult lifelong training in complex domains where technical systems are difficult to apprehend and human factors are critical. Workers have to be trained to react to a wide range of situations. Virtual environment can provide this kind of training by offering them the possibility to experiment different behavior in a situation. Yet to foster learning, such environment should provide a wide range of appealing scenarios adapted to learners’ need. The design and the production of all possible scenarios and of all their adaptations is a tedious task. It requires designers to imagine and describe every possible sequence of events which leads to interesting learning situation. Such a descriptive approach conflicts with the need for a smoother production process.To tackle the authoring bottleneck, we propose the TAILOR architecture to dynamically generate sequences of learning situations in a simulation. It takes into account a learner profile and expert knowledge informed in semantic models. We used a space of classes of situations coupled with a belief model to represent the Zone of Proximal Development of a learner. Each point of the space images the ability of the learner to handle a kind of situation. As we are essentially dealing with intra-diegetic orchestration, i.e. what is happening in the world depicted by the simulation, we propose to use expert model of the domain. We distinguished three kind of knowledge: world knowledge, activity knowledge and causality knowledge. They are used at runtime to procedurally generate a learning situation which will enlarge the Zone of Proximal Development of the learner.To this end, we design the WORLD-DL language to author scenario content for virtual environment for training in a reconfigurable, adaptable and generic way through an ontological representation. This language is used both to describe scenario objectives and to maintain a knowledge-based world state. Moreover, we operationalize structuralist view of narrative to build a story upon generated learning situation through an automated diegetization process. This process relies on abstract story model describe in the ontological metamodel DIEGETIC.This work have been implemented in the TAILOR engine used in the HUMANS platform. It was used both for aeronautic assembly virtual training and for baby sitter virtual training.

The following thesis is a study on the ability to create acceptable welds in thin-plate, ultra-high-strength steels (UHSS) by way of friction stir welding (FSW). Steels are welded together to create tailor-welded blanks (TWB) for use in the automotive industry. Dual Phase (DP) 590, 780, and 980 steel as well as Transformation-Induced Plasticity (TRIP) 590 steel with thicknesses ranging from 1.2 mm to 1.8 mm were welded using friction stir welding under a variety of processing conditions, including experiments with dissimilar thicknesses. Samples were tested under tensile loads for initial determination if an acceptable weld had been created. Acceptable welds were created in both TRIP 590 and DP 590 at speeds up to 102 centimeters-per-minute. No acceptable welds were created in the DP 780 and DP 980 materials. A series of microhardness measurements were taken across weld samples to gain understanding as to the causes of failure. These data indicate that softening, caused by both excessive heat and insufficient heat can result in weld failure. Not enough heat causes the high concentration of martensite in these materials to temper while too much heat can cause excessive hardening in the weld, through the formation of even more martensite, which tends to promote failure mode during forming operations. Laser welding is one of the leading methods for creating tailor-welded blank. Therefore, laser welded samples of each material were tested and compared to Friction Stir Welded samples. Lower strength and elongation are measured in weld failure while the failure location itself determines the success of a weld. In short, an acceptable weld is one that breaks outside the weld nugget and Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) and where the tensile strength (both yield and ultimate) along with the elongation are comparable to the base material. In unacceptable welds, the sample broke in the weld nugget or HAZ while strength and elongations were well below those of the base material samples.

This corpus study has focused on the titles used by those who sew as a hobby, primarily on the six most frequently used ones. The corpora used are Early English Books Online, Google Books Ngram Viewer and a corpus compiled in SketchEngine. The research also looked at the etymology and how their meanings might have changed from 1470 to 2022. The focus was also on to whom the titles have been assigned and if they are professionally trained or hobbyists. Among the findings, tailor is the most frequently used title over time; it is used more for male professionals. On the other hand, the most popular title today is sewist, which is used primarily by hobbyists, both males and females. Sewer is dropping in popularity while the others are increasing, possibly because it has several homographs making it easy to misinterpret in today’s society where the internet is used so frequently. However, it is still popular as it is the second most used title. In addition, seamster has changed whom it denotes the most frequently, from being for females to both genders to males, while seamstress is solely used for females across time. Finally, dressmaker is mainly used for women who sew professionally.

Cette thèse cherche à comprendre et à analyser les fondements historiques, sociaux, culturels et genrés d’une méconnaissance et d’une sous-valorisation actuelles des costumiers et des costumières, en accordant un primat à leur parole propre. Traitant des origines théoriques de l’art costumier à partir de l’apparition de l’appellation professionnelle consacrée, la première partie retrace le parcours et les luttes multiples de Pierre-Nicolas Sarrazin, en cherchant à identifier les motifs de l’échec de la valorisation professionnelle entreprise par ce dernier au XVIIIe siècle. La deuxième partie présente, à partir de l’analyse d’un recueil d’entretiens de costumiers d’aujourd’hui, les notions de métiers de service et de rapport de commande, de genre et de « souci de l’autre » comme étant les caractéristiques de cette activité professionnelle, et autant de leviers potentiels d’oppression. Enfin, la troisième partie étudie la carrière de Dominique Fabrègue – spécialiste de la coupe en un morceau – en tant que « fabrique » d’une œuvre dont la portée est esthétique et critique, de manière à défendre l’idée que l’art costumier constitue un art à part entière, qui pour être second dans l’élaboration d’un spectacle, n’est pas pour autant secondaire. / This work aims at analyzing the historical, social, cultural and gender factors responsible for the current undermining of the costume designers and makers profession. The first part consists in a historical research onthe theoretical origins of the Art of Costume starting with the appearance of the professional vocable - Costumier - invented by Pierre-Nicolas Sarrazin, as well as a study of the means this latter used to promote his field of work during the 18th century and how he came to fail. The second part is an interview-collection (2013 to 2016) - based reflection on the order nature of the work, the gender characterization of the workers and « care » as a creative motivation. It demonstrates how these specifics are potential ways to oppress the costume designers and makers and to deny them the appreciation and salary they deserve. The third part is an a esthetic critique of Costume Designer Dominique Fabrègue’s career, and the « Cut in one piece » Artwork she specialized in. This section argues that the discipline of designing costumes is an Art in full, and as it may come second in the process of putting on a play, is not for all that secondary and shouldn’t be considered assuch.

The shipbuilding sector, as well as all modern transportation industries, is faced with demands for greater productivity while at the same time ensuring the manufacture of consistently high quality products, reducing levels of re-working, saving energy, and minimizing operational costs. Furthermore, it is imperative that new designs and all the stages of production comply with stringent environmental regulation. Within this context, the application of Friction Stir Welding (FSW) as a manufacturing process to weld Tailor Welded Blanks (TWB) for Al structures can contribute to the development of high speed craft and lightweight ships that are more fuel efficient, based on a high energetic efficient and environmental friendly welding process. In this work, the heterogeneous mechanical behavior of TWB joints welded by FSW was evaluated using quasi-static and cyclic loading, and the observed microstructural features were analyzed. The TWB joints were manufactured using dissimilar alloys and thicknesses (6 and 8mm) of particular interest in the shipbuilding sector (AA5083, AA5059 and AA6082). An evaluation of local constitutive properties in different regions through the TWB joint was performed by digital image correlation linked to the tensile test system. From the DIC data processing were generated stress concentrations diagrams and true stress-strain curves for several TWB subzones. The DIC methodology used as well as the accuracy of the proposed method are described in detail. The joints exhibited excellent mechanical properties approximately the same as those of the base metal for the joints manufactured with work hardened alloys (AA5059/AA5083) and 76% mechanical efficiency to those manufactured with the heat-treatable alloy (AA6082). The fatigue strength of the TWB joints were higher than the IIW references for welded structures in aluminum and the fracture mechanisms were characterized using SEM. / O setor de construção naval, bem como a indústria moderna, é continuamente sobrecarregada por demandas de aumento de produtividade e ao mesmo tempo precisa garantir a fabricação de produtos com alta qualidade, reduzindo os níveis de retrabalhos, economizando energia e diminuindo os custos operacionais. Adicionalmente a este paradoxo, é imperativo que os novos designs de produtos e todos os estágios de produção sejam compatibilizados com as rígidas exigências ambientais. Neste contexto, a concepção de projetos de estruturas leves soldadas por SALM em configurações sob medidas (Tailor Welded Blanks - TWB) em Al podem contribuir para produção de embarcações com eficiente consumo de combustível e redução dos níveis de eliminação de CO2 através da redução do peso de suas estruturas. Além de utilizar um processo de soldagem eficiente energeticamente e amigável ao meio ambiente. Neste trabalho as características heterogêneas de juntas em TWB soldadas por SALM foram avaliadas através de ensaios mecânicos com carregamentos quasi-estáticos e dinâmicos e, foram criadas relações entre as propriedades mecânicas das juntas e alterações microestruturas resultantes do processo de soldagem. As juntas em TWB foram produzidas com três diferentes ligas de alumínio de particular interesse da construção naval, (AA5083, AA5059 e AA6082) em configurações similares e dissimilar, com combinações de espessuras de 6 e 8mm. Acoplado ao ensaio de tração um sistema de correlação digital de imagens (DIC) foi instalado e o perfil de deformação local das juntas foram investigados durante o carregamento. A partir do processamento dos dados obtidos por DIC, diagramas de concentração de tensão e curvas de tensão-deformação locais foram computados para diferentes subzonas das juntas. O procedimento utilizado, bem como os dados obtidos e a precisão da metodologia proposta foram descritos detalhadamente. As juntas apresentaram excelentes propriedades mecânicas, equivalentes às do metal base para a junta dissimilar produzida com as ligas endurecidas por trabalho mecânico (AA5059/AA5083) e 76% de eficiência para as juntas similares produzidas com a liga tratável termicamente (AA6082). A resistência a fadiga das juntas foram superiores às referências do IIW para juntas soldadas em alumínio e os mecanismos de fratura foram caracterizados por MEV.