[pt] Os processos eletrônicos alteram os conceitos básicos do fazer artesanal e, portanto, o conceito de bordado também se altera. Diante dessa ruptura, surge a justificativa desse trabalho: a análise dos bordados, sejam manuais ou eletrônicos. Este trabalho busca investigar o bordado para debater as transformações ocorridas ao longo do tempo, incluindo a utilização de novas tecnologias, examinando se é coerente dizer que as máquinas eletrônicas bordam. A metodologia aplicada inclui diferentes etapas, iniciando pela checagem dos temas e dos contextos relacionados para examinar o bordado, aferindo os seus diferentes processos de produção: o trabalho manual e o sistema eletrônico. A pesquisa também tem por base uma revisão teórica dos conceitos apresentados. A discussão a respeito da evolução do artesanato no Brasil conduz o olhar para a nossa prática, ilustrando o debate com o trabalho realizado na Cooperativa de Trabalho Artesanal e de Costura da Rocinha Ltda - até recentemente reconhecida como COOPA-ROCA. A experiência aprofunda a reflexão a respeito de uma cultura metodológica relacionada ao bordado manual, elucidando o papel do consumidor. / [en] Electronic processes change the basic concepts of making crafts, and therefore the concept of embroidery also changes. Faced with this disruption, the justification of this work emerge: the analysis of the embroideries, either manual or electronic. This work seeks to investigate the embroidery to discuss the transformations that occurred over time, including the use of new technologies, examining whether it is coherent to say that the electronic machines does embroideries. The methodology was organized in different stages, starting with the checking of the topics and related contexts to examine the embroidery, assessing their different production processes: the manual work and the electronic system. The research is also based on a theoretical revision of the presented concepts. The discussion about the evolution of handicrafts in Brazil leads to a look at our practice, illustrating the debate with the work carried out at the Cooperativa de Trabalho Artesanal e de Costura da Rocinha Ltda - until lately recognized as COOPA-ROCA. The experience deepens the reflection about a methodological culture for the manual embroidery, elucidating the role of the consumer.

Numerous authors are in agreement about apparel being a means of communication, especially in the workplace environment (Howlett et al. 2013; Li et al. 2012; Kang et al. 2011; Kwon 1994; Stuart & Fuller 1991). In fact, business apparel has been found to be used as a tool to communicate perceived meaning about the wearer to others, such as level of education, diligence, and even occupational ability (Kwon 1994; Stuart & Fuller 1991). Business apparel has the ability to be used by the wearer as a means to impress others but have also been found to produce positive feelings like confidence, productivity and dependability in the mind of the wearer (Peluchette et al. 2006). Moreover, minor changes in an outfit can influence the opinions and judgements made by others about the wearer (Howlett et al. 2015; Howlett et al. 2013). Otnes and McGrath (2001) suggest that men may attempt to achieve professional success when purchasing business apparel as the apparel worn at work may be related to achieving success in the workplace. Men are becoming more evident in the ready-to-wear apparel retail market, which may be explained by a shift in the way society sees traditional gender roles (McNeill & Douglas 2011; Otnes & McGrath 2001). In fact, Otnes and McGrath (2001) propose that men who are not limited by the view of traditional gender roles shop with motivation, often displaying shopping behaviour considered as feminine, but do so with a specific goal in mind. Increased marketing activities targeting male consumers (Seo et al. 2001), a greater variety in ready-to-wear business apparel options, due to the tendency towards a more casual dress code in many workplaces (Torres et al. 2001), and an increased consciousness about managing their own appearance (Sindicich & Black 2011) contribute to changes in the apparel purchasing behaviour of male consumers. Kang et al. (2011) suggest that men in particular expect specific outcomes, such as career advancement, communicating a positive impression to others, improving personal performance in the workplace, and feeling good about themselves, which they associate with their business apparel. Well-fitting apparel makes a positive contribution to the appearance of the wearer. Consumers, including men, often consider the fit of ready-to-wear apparel items as an aspect to consider when evaluating alternatives for purchasing. This is significant vi since the fit of apparel contributes not only to the physical comfort of the apparel item but also involves an aesthetic as well as a socio-psychological dimension (Tselepis & De Klerk 2004). Fit problems with ready-to-wear business apparel among male consumers have been reported by various authors (Sindicich & Black 2011; Sindicich 2008). However, getting a clear indication of consumers’ evaluation of apparel fit remains a complicated process (Chen 2007) and with the wide range of body shapes among apparel consumers, as well as their range of preferences towards apparel fit, problems with the fit of apparel items continue to be a topic of concern for manufacturers and retailers (Bye & LaBat 2005; Anderson et al. 2000) and the task of providing consumers with satisfactory fit is notably difficult (Ross 2005). Considering the influence which consumers’ expectations of the fit of their apparel has on the apparel purchase decision, the limited research about male consumer expectations regarding the fit of apparel is a problem worth addressing. This includes what their expectations are with regard to the fit of their business apparel, as well as factors they consider to be important when in the process of purchasing business apparel. Therefore, the overall purpose of this study was to gain knowledge regarding the functional, aesthetic and socio-psychological expectations that South African male consumers hold towards the fit of ready-to-wear business apparel, and to determine the extent to which their expectations influence their apparel purchase decisions. The study employed an exploratory, quantitative research approach. Data were collected by means of an electronic questionnaire through a combination of both purposive and snowball sampling techniques. Descriptive statistics were used to describe the demographic and psychographic profile of the sample by means of frequencies and percentage distributions and to analyse the coded data. A correlation coefficient was calculated and was used to determine the reliability of the constructs, namely the functional, aesthetic and socio-psychological expectations of fit and the importance of these apparel attributes when respondents purchase ready-to-wear business apparel. A multiple linear regression model was applied to determine the relationship between the expectations and the extent to which these influence the purchase decision regarding business apparel. vii The results of this study indicated that respondents showed a higher level of agreement with the functional expectations of the fit of their business apparel than with the aesthetic and socio-psychological expectations. However, the multiple linear regression model indicated that respondents placed greater importance on the aesthetic and socio-psychological aspects of apparel when in the process of purchasing ready-to-wear apparel for the workplace. In terms of functional expectations, respondents expected their business apparel to fit well when in their size, as well as to be comfortable and of good quality. The results further indicated that the respondents expected the fabric of ready-to-wear business apparel to be comfortable, that they like the colour of the apparel item, and that wearing the apparel item would contribute to positive feelings of self. Socio-psychological expectations included that the respondents expected ready-to-wear business apparel with good fit to make them feel fashionably dressed, give them confidence at work and also make them feel like they are a part of the company, as their business apparel should adhere to the dress code of the company. It is therefore recommended that ready-to-wear apparel manufacturers, as well as marketers and retailers, not only consider the functional aspects of apparel fit, but also focus on the aesthetic and socio-psychological aspects of apparel fit, as these also play an important role in the male consumer’s evaluation of ready-to-wear business apparel and therefore also his assessment of his own satisfaction during use. Ready-to-wear business apparel marketers and retailers can integrate male consumers’ expectations towards fit and business apparel in general into marketing strategies and as a means to retain current consumers. / College of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

Submitted by Francisco Soares Bianchi (francisco.bianchi@gmail.com) on 2018-10-31T14:47:03Z No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1012788 bytes, checksum: c60e0c9c6bf13a1fb94f02363d455009 (MD5) / Rejected by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br), reason: Prezado Francisco, Recebemos seu trabalho na biblioteca digital, mas será necessário efetuar alguns ajustes que encaminharei por e-mail. Por favor, faça as alterações e submeta novamente o trabalho na biblioteca digital. Atenciosamente Simone on 2018-10-31T20:39:06Z (GMT) / Submitted by Francisco Soares Bianchi (francisco.bianchi@gmail.com) on 2018-11-02T18:41:33Z No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1018750 bytes, checksum: ad80fbb76fea674ff9d1f1a5132bbe5d (MD5) / Rejected by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br), reason: Boa Tarde Francisco, Ainda há duas alterações necessárias: 1º Traduzir a palavra Data da aprovação. 2º Resumo precisa estar em folha separada. Por favor, faça as alterações e submeta o trabalho novamente na biblioteca digital. Atenciosamente, Simone on 2018-11-05T16:26:13Z (GMT) / Submitted by Francisco Soares Bianchi (francisco.bianchi@gmail.com) on 2018-11-05T20:09:39Z No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br) on 2018-11-06T16:29:45Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Isabele Garcia (isabele.garcia@fgv.br) on 2018-11-07T12:09:18Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-11-07T12:09:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-09-25 / Purpose: To provide propositions regarding how juxtaposing two well-known and established theories might impact the way firms venture when entering into new international markets. Design/Methodology/Approach: Building on exploratory and inductive research and on multiple cases and on work in related disciplines and on 18 field interviews with managers and C-level executives in diverse functions and organizations. Findings: Provide empirical support from interviews on the case studies to corroborate with the three propositions and compare amongst the observed practices what could be done differently to mitigate WCLOF (Working Capital Liability of Foreignness). The first proposition is presented regarding how the Liability of Foreignness (LOF) plays a role when international firms are managing their Working Capital (WC) of a subunit in a host market, using six qualitative case studies from three international players and three local competitors; the second proposition is related to if firms overcome LOF over time when, using the same three international players in qualitative case studies to observe how they have been evolving is the new host market regarding their WC improvement and; the third proposition is whether the international players might carry an advantage when establishing a subunit in a new host market, considering again the same three international players in qualitative case studies. Research Limitations: Further research is necessary into different markets other than Brazil and / or different industries other than the apparel / fashion retailing. Broader survey, with statistical generalization, might validate the propositions presented. Practical Implications: The propositions could serve as a managerial tool for identifying WCLOF, thus also for assisting to overcome it. Originality/value: given the novelty in bringing these two existing theories juxtaposed in academic literature, it demanded inductive research to assist uniqueness findings. / Propósito: Prover proposições a respeito de como duas conhecidas and estabelecidas teorias justapostas poodem impactar as firmas ao entrar em novos mercados internacionais. Design / Metodologia / Abordagem: a partir de pesquisa exploratória e indutiva e em casos múltiplos, em temas relacionados e em 18 entrevistas de campo com gestores e executivos em diversas funções e organizações. Resultados: prover base empírica a partir de entrevistas sobre os estudos de caso para corroborar com as três proposições e comparar, entre as práticas observadas, o que poderia ser feito de forma diferente para mitigar o WCLOF (Working Capital Liability of Foreignness). A primeira proposição é sobre o papel que Liability of Foreignness (LOF) desempenha quando as firmas internacionais gerenciam seu Capital de Giro (WC) de uma subunidade em um mercado estrangeiro, a com base em seis estudos de caso qualitativos de três competidores internacionais e três pares locais; a segunda proposição é a se as empresas superam o LOF ao longo do tempo, com base nos mesmos pares internacionais em estudos de caso qualitativos para observar como eles, no novo mercado estrangeito em relação ao aprimoramento de seus WC; a terceira proposição é se as firmas internacionais podem trazer uma vantagem ao estabelecer uma subunidade em um novo mercado estrangeiro, considerando novamente as mesmos três firmas internacionais em estudos de casos qualitativos Limitações de pesquisa: Pesquisas adicionais são necessárias em diferentes mercados, exceto no Brasil e / ou em diferentes indústrias, além do varejo de vestuário / moda. Um levantamento mais amplo, com testes estatísticos, pode validar as proposições apresentadas. Implicações Práticas: As proposições poderiam servir como uma ferramenta gerencial para identificar o WCLOF, assim também para ajudar a superá-lo. Originalidade / valor: dada o ineditismo em avaliar essas duas teorias existentes justapostas na literatura acadêmica, foram requeridas pesquisas indutivas para auxiliar a novidade das descobertas.

Natural disasters are uniquely transformative events. They can drastically transform physical terrain and the lives of those unfortunate enough to be caught in their wrath. However, natural disasters also provide an opportunity to reflect on past failures and, at times, a clean slate to correct those shortcomings. This project takes a political economic approach and recognizes natural disasters as occasions for agenda-setting on behalf of transnational commercial enterprises and market-oriented policy elites. These reformers often use the post-disaster policy space to articulate long-term development strategies based on market fundamentalism, and, more importantly, advance a set of policies consistent with their particular interests. This dissertation delves into that process and identifies the actors, their preferences and the policy outcomes. Using the business conflict model alongside changing transnational processes, this project identifies and traces post-disaster policy making in the Caribbean Basin. It also explores and provides a more nuanced explanation of its effect upon and within certain socioeconomic groups. What becomes apparent is that natural disasters are opportunities to first fracture national economies and then integrate them into transnational processes of capital accumulation. Given that economic viability is increasingly determined by assimilation into the global production processes, reformers in both developed and developing countries use disasters as occasions for re-orienting national economies towards this end. It is within this distorted integrative process that disaster capitalism is located.

Mobile phone usage has grown rapidly and is widely used as an advertising channel. Both short message service (SMS) and multimedia messaging service (MMS) are typically used for mobile advertising. The goals of this study are to examine the determinants of attitudes toward mobile advertising in an apparel context and subsequent impact on behavior intention and to investigate the effects of modality and culture on attitudes toward apparel mobile advertising. Results indicate that entertainment, informativeness, irritation, and credibility are determinants of attitudes toward apparel mobile advertising, and attitudes can explain behavioral intention at least in part. Perceived entertainment is different between SMS and MMS apparel mobile advertising, and perceived entertainment, informativeness, irritation, and credibility are different between U.S. and Korea participants.

Purpose: This research’s purpose is to test previous used factors that influence the green purchase intentions of apparel products on a not yet tested target group, young consumers in the Netherlands. The goal that goes with the purpose is to stimulate the sustainable apparel consumption in the Netherlands. Research design: To fulfill the purpose of this study, an online questionnaire has been distributed to young consumers in the Netherlands. A total of 400 valid respondents were collected through the convenience sampling- and snowball sampling method. With the valid respondents the multiple linear regression and hierarchical linear regression were conducted. Findings: The current study has found enough evidence to statistically prove that attitude, subjective norm, perceived environmental concern, a low aesthetic risk, and willingness to pay premium have a positive influence on the purchase intention. The study did not find enough evidence to statistically prove that perceived behavioral control, perceived environmental knowledge, and perceived consumer effectiveness have a positive influence on the purchase intention.

The purpose of this study was to develop a conceptual integrated online visual merchandising framework containing online visual merchandising themes that South African apparel e-tailers could use when developing an effective apparel e-store, with the main aim of possibly influencing consumer purchasing behaviour. The study adopted a consumer-centred response approach to online visual merchandising in an attempt to holistically consider this area of the South African e-tail industry from the consumer’s perspective. The study followed a pragmatic paradigm that implemented a mixed-method approach. The qualitative section of the mixed-method approach primarily comprised four focus group interviews as the main data-collection instrument. The data obtained during the qualitative section was analysed by Tesch’s inductive descriptive coding technique, better known as thematic analysis. The findings obtained during the qualitative section were used as the basis for the quantitative section of the mixed-method approach, which implemented a self-administered web-based questionnaire as the data-collection instrument. The data was analysed by means of the Statistical Package for Social Science (SPSS) version 23. The findings of the study delivered a conceptual integrated online visual merchandising framework that consists of 13 themes and 82 items. This conceptual integrated online visual merchandising framework will contribute to the South African apparel retail and e-tail industry, as both apparel brick-and-mortar retailers and apparel e-tailers in South Africa can benefit from using the conceptual integrated framework as a guideline. The value of the conceptual integrated framework lies in the fact that it includes consumers’ views regarding the online visual merchandising themes. Therefore, apparel e-tailers, as well as brick-and-mortar retailers that want to develop an e-store, or update an existing e-store, can use this conceptual integrated framework as a guideline to make their online offering as attractive as possible. This way involves the least possible online risks to ensure that online trust is created, and ultimately, that consumer purchasing behaviour has been influenced. / Business Management / D. Phil. (Management Studies)

Modeindustrin genererar enorma mängder textilavfall varje år. Detta har resulterat i ett behov av en mer hållbar syn på modeindustrin, med fokus på att bekämpa de negativa effekterna samtidigt som ekonomisk tillväxt upprätthålls. Övergången till en cirkulär ekonomi samt implementeringen av hållbara processer och material är nödvändiga steg att ta framåt. Att integrera deadstockmaterial i ett företags sourcingstrategi kan vara ett sätt att minska avfallsmängden och miljöpåverkan, samtidigt som ekonomiska fördelar uppnås. Vi har identifierat att Born Sustainable Firms (BSF) kan använda olika sourcingprocesser för att säkerställa tillgången till deadstockmaterial, såsom hands-on-sourcing, sourcing via tredjepart och sourcing direkt från leverantörer. Utmaningarna inom deadstocksourcing inkluderar spårbarheten av materialen och bristen på etablerade system för att tillgängliggöra deadstockmaterial. Möjligheter inkluderar framtida lagstiftning och regleringar, vilka förväntas främja utvecklingen av nya processer och strategier för att minska avfallsmängden samt uppmuntra användningen av deadstockmaterial. En industriell symbiosplattform kan vara en möjlig lösning för att underlätta tillgången till och användningen av deadstockmaterial inom modeindustrin, vilket kan bidra till hållbar utveckling inom branschen. / The fashion industry generates enormous amounts of textile waste every year, which has led to a need for a sustainable approach that combats the negative impact while maintaining economic growth. Transitioning to a circular economy and implementing sustainable processes and materials are necessary steps to move forward. Integrating deadstock materials into a company's sourcing strategy can be a way to reduce waste and environmental impact while achieving economic benefits. We have identified that Born Sustainable Firms (BSF) can employ various sourcing processes to ensure access to deadstock materials, such as hands-on-sourcing, third-party sourcing, and supplier sourcing. Challenges in deadstock sourcing include traceability of materials and the lack of established systems for accessing deadstock materials. Opportunities include future legislation and regulations, which are expected to promote the development of new processes and strategies to reduce waste and encourage the use of deadstock materials. An industrial symbiosis platform may be a potential solution to facilitate access to and utilization of deadstock materials in the fashion industry, contributing to a more sustainable development within the sector.

Vid utvecklingen av nya produkter kan det vara utmanande att etablera en effektiv kommunikation mellan de olika intressenterna som är involverade i framtagningen av produktprover. Många parter med skilda erfarenheter är inblandade i processen och gör olika tolkningar av en plaggskiss. Omvandlingen från sådana skisser till en produktspecifikation kan resultera i felaktigheter om det inte är tydlig kommunikation mellan de olika parterna. Detta resulterar i felaktiga produktprover som inte godkänns. Syftet med denna studie är att utvärdera implementeringen av digital visualisering vid framställning av produktprover inom modeindustrin. Detta möjliggörs genom en granskning av tre olika perspektiv, tidigare forskning, semistrukturerade intervjuer med aktuella modeföretag samt en fallstudie där framställning av ett produktprov tas fram helt utifrån ett digitalt visualiseringsprogram. Detta för att få en överblick av möjligheten till digital visualiserings implementering vid framtagning av produktprover. Denna uppsats kombinerar olika metoder då de kompletterar och berikar varandra, vilket resulterar i en mer nyanserad diskussion och minskar risken för brister. Resultatet visar på att genom digital visualiserings implementering vid produktprover kan man effektivare ta fram produktprover genom tredimensionella simuleringar och kommunikationen mellan berörda parter vid framtagningen av produkter förenklas. / During the development of new products, establishing effective communication among the various stakeholders involved in the production of product samples can be challenging. Multiple parties with different experiences are tasked with interpreting a garment sketch and transforming it into a product specification. Inconsistencies in interpretation often lead to inaccuracies in the product description. Consequently, when the production phase reaches the creation of a product sample, there is a high probability of it not being approved. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the implementation of digital visualization in the production of product samples within the fashion industry. This is accomplished through an examination of three perspectives: previous research, semi-structured interviews with relevant fashion companies, and a case study where a product sample is developed entirely using a digital visualization program. By adopting this multi-method approach, the study aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the potential for implementing digital visualization in the production of product samples. This combination of methodologies enriches the analysis and mitigates the risk of limitations. The findings indicate that digital visualization implementation in product sampling enables the more efficient creation of product samples through three-dimensional simulations. It simplifies communication channels among the involved parties during the production of product samples.

[pt] Considerando o aumento da prevalência dos discursos e das disciplinas, sobre sustentabilidade nas instituições de ensino do Campo do Design de Moda, objetiva-se investigar como o Campo compreende a noção de sustentabilidade. Para tal, a fim de aprendermos a totalidade social, empregamos as teorias do Campo e da economia dos bens simbólicos, de Pierre Bourdieu, e a teoria social de Marx, a qual acessamos, sobretudo, por intermédio de pesquisadores marxistas. Esse estudo verificou que o discurso e a prática do design de moda sustentável tendem a reproduzir a ideologia da sustentabilidade corporativa. Essa camufla os interesses de classe, apoiando-se na razoabilidade da defesa ambiental, ao mesmo tempo que emprega uma retórica supraclassista. / [en] Considering the increase in the prevalence ofthe discourses and courses about sustainability in the institutions that teach Fashion Design, we aim to investigate how the field understands the sustainability notion. For such, as a meansto learn the social totality, we apply Bourdieu s Field theory and theory of the economy of symbolic goods and Marx s social theory, which we have accessed mainly through Marxist researchers. This study found that the discourse and practice of sustainable fashion design tend to reproduce the ideology of corporate sustainability. That camouflages class interests, relying on the reasonableness of environmental defense, while employing a supraclassist rhetoric.