Le terme de terroir est utilisé en France depuis déjà plusieurs siècles. Il faut cependant attendre le début des années 2000 pour que l’Organisation Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin (OIV) lui octroie une définition adaptée au secteur vitivinicole. Le terroir fut alors défini comme, « un concept qui se réfère à un espace sur lequel se développe un savoir collectif, des interactions entre le milieu physique et biologique identifiable et les pratiques vitivinicoles appliquées, qui confèrent des caractéristiques distinctives aux produits originaires de cet espace ». Ainsi semblait se dessiner un axe de qualification du terroir en fonction des caractéristiques scientifiques, les facteurs naturels et humains, déjà connus de l’appellation d’origine protégée (AOP). Cet engouement naissant pour la qualification de produits vitivinicoles du terroir trouve très certainement son origine dans l'utilisation abusive actuelle des AOP dont le nombre va croissant. Cette définition dépourvue de tout effet juridique fragilise cependant sa pérennité. Tout l’enjeu est alors d’identifier les contours scientifiques qui déterminent le terroir pour envisager par la suite un cadre juridique. A partir d’une démarche de juxtaposition des facteurs naturels et humains à l'instar de ce que l'on observe pour les AOP, il sera question de mettre en évidence les facteurs scientifiques induits par le cahier des charges indispensable à la qualification juridique du terroir. La contre-productivité des solutions envisagées pour encadrer juridiquement la théorie du terroir au regard des dénominations géographiques existantes sera ainsi mise en évidence. / The term terroir has been used in France for several centuries. However, it was not until the early 21st century that it received a definition specific to the wine sector from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV). The OIV defines terroir as a concept referring to an “area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the identifiable physical and biological environment and applied vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive characteristics for the products originating from this area”. This implies an axis of qualification of terroir reflecting scientific characteristics, as well as natural and human factors, already contained in the notion of appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC). This nascent enthusiasm for the use of terroir to designate vitivinicultural products most probably stems from the tendency to overuse AOPs, whose number is relentlessly increasing. But this definition, which cannot claim genuine legal foundations, undermines its enduring nature. The challenge is therefore to identify the scientific outlines of the definition of terroir, with a view to establishing a legal framework. Building on a juxtaposition of natural and human factors in the same way as AOPs, we highlight the implied scientific factors within the specifications necessary for the legal qualification of terroir. We then argue that the solutions envisaged to legally frame the theory of the terroir can be counterproductive in view of existing geographical indications.

Submitted by Ana Paula Lisboa Monteiro (monteiro@univates.br) on 2011-07-20T00:51:04Z No. of bitstreams: 1 MarcosTuratti.pdf: 2050913 bytes, checksum: 220f2dac14c1f40a81d27f04fd6af4e7 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2011-07-20T00:51:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MarcosTuratti.pdf: 2050913 bytes, checksum: 220f2dac14c1f40a81d27f04fd6af4e7 (MD5) / Atualmente tornam-se cada vez mais presentes e visíveis os direcionamentos do segmento mundial de alimentos: de um lado um modelo buscando a concentração (fusões de empresas, incorporações) trabalhando principalmente com escala de produção; de outro, surge modelo focado na diferenciação (funcionalidade, qualidade e praticidade) e diversificação de produtos com menor escala de produção. Esses modelos atuam diretamente sobre o território local, influenciando modelos de desenvolvimento e estratégias de produção (modelos de produção) a serem estabelecidos de acordo com suas diretrizes. O trabalho aqui proposto envolve um estudo sobre a produção de leite e sua relação com o ―local. Este estudo parte da evidência de que a região a ser estudada, o Vale do Taquari, no estado do Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil, é um dos maiores produtores de leite do Estado, sendo a produção leiteira uma das principais atividades econômicas regionais. O pressuposto deste estudo é que esses indicativos podem facilmente deixar de ser importantes, caso a região não adote estratégias voltadas à qualificação e diferenciação de seus produtos lácteos. Nesse sentido, propõe-se uma pesquisa a ser realizada na microrregião pioneira na produção de leite no Vale do Taquari, compreendendo uma parte da região, com o objetivo de verificar e compreender se a relação da produção de leite com o “território” poderá embasar o estabelecimento do conceito ―terroir dos lácteos para essa microrregião, como forma de fortalecê-la e diferenciá-la. Considerado-se que um terroir parte dos pressupostos de solo, clima, cultura, ambiente e da existência de um produto que possua identidade própria, graças a um trabalho humano, o qual permite conferir características específicas aos seus produtos. Além disso, o estudo discute a aplicabilidade do conceito ―terroir dos lácteos, caso se conclua pela viabilidade de sua utilização, que no caso em questão ficou evidenciado existir certa especificidade nos lácteos produzidos na região, requisito necessário a construção de um ― terroir dos lácteos.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Bowling Green State University, 2009. / Document formatted into pages; contains xiv, 226 p. : col. ill. Includes bibliographical references.

The aim of this work was to evaluate the qualitative and quantitative parameters of the clones of the Tramín variety. The introduction describes the Tramín variety, its origin, distribution, mutations and clones, and also deals with habitat requirements, variety resistance, cultivating properties And climatic conditions in the area of the experimental vineyard. In the experiment, the facts about individual clone analyzes are described, with methodology, site description, On which grapes were harvested and evaluated. Given the results of the comparison of the individual clones from the same site, it would be advisable not to focus on just one clone, but at least three clones to support each other. Not only in production technology, but also in sensory properties where one clone supports the second or third clone in one clone. It will also be appropriate to focus on the dependence of micro climatic conditions, soil conditions, The main objective was to recommend the suitability of a combination of Tramín clones with different properties for the production of quality wine according to the obtained data. Based on the results I would suggest focusing on the cultivation of French clones, Clones 47 and 1077, which provide a spice and a clone 46-106, which gives the wines of floral tones, fruity and delicate aroma. As they complement each other very well both in terms of yields and in terms of quality and aroma of the produced wines.

The relationship between soil and wine quality has been recognized for generations but has had limited scientific validation. Vineyard soils in the eastern United States are largely unstudied although proper site selection and good soil management have the potential to improve fruit composition for high-quality wine production. Soils that provide excessive plant-available nutrients and water often produce vigorous vegetative growth and negatively influence fruit chemistry. We investigated three aspects of Eastern vineyard soils, including potassium availability, methods of reducing infiltration, and the influence of topsoil on fruit chemistry. Our first goal was to determine the best soil sampling, processing, and extraction methods for predicting potassium availability in Mid-Atlantic vineyard soils. Excessive potassium can result in high pH fruit, which negatively affects wine quality, but until now the best methods for predicting soil-available potassium had not been investigated. We found that moist-extracted soil sampled from 0-38 cm appear to best be suited predicting vine tissue potassium. Our second goal was to test methods of reducing rain infiltration at critical times during the growing season. One of the soil stabilizers we tested successfully reduced infiltration in field trials. Vineyard trials in 2021 were compromised by dry weather, but further research is ongoing. Our final project involved a three-year investigation where we attempted to isolate the influence of soil properties on grapevines and fruit composition by monitoring vines and fruit in single vineyard blocks. The most consistent result was positive relationships between topsoil and fruit titratable acidity, suggesting that the fruit was ripening earlier in vines growing in thinner topsoil. Topsoil depth better explained differences in fruit titratable acidity than other explanatory variables including crop load and sunlight exposure of fruit. Overall, this research increased our understanding of the soil properties that influence vine growth and fruit chemistry in the Eastern US. The results will help growers improve sampling methods, fruit chemistry, and increase resilience to soil and climate related challenges. / Doctor of Philosophy / The relationship between grapes, wine, and soil has been acknowledged since the Middle Ages when monks recognized that vineyards in different places produced different-tasting wine. However, it is difficult to determine exactly how soil affects grapes and wine. In the eastern United States, growers knew that some soils were not the best for growing high quality grapes for wine, such as those that provide excessive nutrients or water to the vines, but there was little information or scientific research about it. We wanted to help growers by investigating soil properties that affect fruit quality as well as potential soil management strategies that could improve fruit quality. We fine-tuned the process of collecting, processing, and analyzing vineyard samples that growers use to determine the potassium status of their vines. Potassium can affect fruit quality so testing for it before it can affect fruit quality is crucial. We found that sampling soil to a deeper depth than usual and keeping the sample moist instead of drying it were the best practices. We also determined the best way to complete the lab analysis to best predict how much potassium the soil can provide to the vines. For our second project, we found that commercial material intended for stabilizing dirt roads slowed the seeping of rain into soil. Future research will see if vineyards can use the soil stabilizer to reduce soil water during mid-summer rains to improve fruit quality. Our final project involved monitoring vineyards over three years to see how differences in soil properties affected vine growth and fruit chemistry. The main difference in soil was the thickness of topsoil throughout each vineyard. Where there was thin topsoil, the vines were smaller and produced fruit that was less acidic. These results are likely because those fruit were ripening earlier, but we were not able to identify a specific soil property that was affecting the fruit chemistry. Overall, our results will help vineyard growers better manage their soil to hopefully produce better-quality fruit and wine.

Este trabalho investiga a relação entre gastronomia e sustentabilidade por meio da análise crítica do sistema de produção e consumo que incide sobre a cultura do \'comer fora\' e da análise crítica do discurso de operadores (chefs ou restaurateurs) de equipamentos de Alimentos e Bebidas (restaurantes) de diferentes tipologias nas microrregiões de Limeira e Piracicaba e proximidades. Verificar em que medida os estabelecimentos escolhidos têm ações compatíveis com o que se aproxima do que poderíamos chamar de sustentabilidade ambiental, alicerçada no conceito de \'territorialização\' dos alimentos utilizados - um conceito em construção - a valorização dos produtos naturais e o respeito à produção do \'saber e sabor do lugar\'. Trata-se aqui, à guisa de hipótese, admitir que o discurso gastronômico atual, que defende a bandeira do \'território\' (ou do \'km 0\') e da sazonalidade das matérias-primas, está longe de orientar as escolhas dos chefs de cozinha e dos responsáveis pelos estabelecimentos em questão. Mas também podemos admitir que o saber gastronômico está, em determinados casos, comprometido com a sustentabilidade ambiental e a preservação da biodiversidade, a viabilidade da agricultura familiar e os destinos do planeta, de um modo mais abrangente. / This work investigates the relationship between gastronomy and sustainability through the critical analysis of the system of production and consumption that focuses on the culture of \'eating out\' and of the critical analysis of the discourse of operators (chefs or restaurateurs cut) of equipment of food and beverages (restaurants) of different typologies in the microregions of Limeira and Piracicaba and nearby. Check to what extent the establishments chosen have actions compatible with that approaches what we could call for environmental sustainability, founded on the concept of \'territorialisation\' of foods used - a concept in building - the exploitation of natural products and the respect of the production of \'know and taste of the place\'. It is here, by way of a hypothesis, admit that the speech current gastronomic, who defends the flag of \'territory\' (or \'km 0\') and the seasonality of raw materials, is far from the choices of the chefs cooking and of persons responsible for the establishments in question. But we can also admit that the know gastronomic is, in certain cases, committed to environmental sustainability and the preservation of biodiversity, the viability of family agriculture and the destinations of the planet, in a more comprehensive way.

Syftet med den här studien är att klargöra och förklara begreppet terroir ur en tvärvetenskaplig synvinkel. En fältstudie genomfördes i Bourgogne där observationer och kvalitativa intervjuer med vinmakare om deras relation till terroir ägde rum. Studien inkluderar en vetenskaplig bakgrund som belyser terroir ur flera synvinklar och även ekonomiska, psykologiska, relationella och sensoriska aspekter som alla kopplas till terroir och belyser begreppets komplexitet. Datainsamlingen analyserades med en kvalitativ dataanalys-metod och resultatet visar att terroir är en komplex, relativistisk term som influerarar många aspekter av livet i regionen, däribland vinodlingen, vinmakningen, ekonomin och de sociala relationerna / The purpose of this study is to clarify and explain the term terroir from an interdisciplinary point of view. A field study was conducted in Burgundy where observations took place as well as qualitative interviews with winemakers about their relation to terroir. The study includes a scientific background that illustrates several different viewpoints on terroir as well as economic, psychological, relational and sensory aspects which are all connected to illuminate the complexity of terroir. The acquired data was analysed through a qualitative data analysis and the results show that terroir is a complex, relativistic term that influences many aspects of life in the region including viticulture, vinification, economics and social relations.

En reconnaissant dès 1936 l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée de vin liquoreux « Monbazillac », l’Etat, par le biais de l’INAO, définit officiellement le vin liquoreux comme un produit de terroir, élaboré par un savoir-faire humain sur un espace aux aptitudes agronomiques et aux conditions climatiques particulières. Pourtant, malgré la mode des « produits de terroir », en France, le vin liquoreux semble très loin d’avoir acquis l’image d’un produit de terroir et se situe en bas de la hiérarchie vitivinicole. Sa production est fragmentée dans l’espace productif viticole français, alors que ce vin est majoritairement produit dans les aires d’influence des vignobles de Bordeaux et Bourgogne. Le vin liquoreux est ainsi élaboré au sein de petits vignobles de vins liquoreux, qui s’inscrivent dans de petits voire très petits vignobles, à l’image des vignobles de Bergerac, Jurançon, Jura et Corrèze. Les vins liquoreux français semblent donc constituer des « impensés » de la géographie du vin, puisque non reconnus en tant que produit de terroir, et puisque élaborés au sein de vignobles de l’entre-deux, de périphéries dominées, voire de marges viticoles. Or, le terroir vitivinicole est une représentation de la société qui le fait vivre. Au sein des différents systèmes spatiaux que constituent les terroirs viticoles étudiés, les acteurs du vin élaborent de nouveaux modèles territoriaux, dans des territoires recomposés par la réforme de la filière viticole impulsée entre 2006 et 2008 et d’espaces ruraux marqués par les conséquences de la mondialisation. Des stratégies de distinction émergent alors à toutes les échelles au sein de ces espaces pour mieux se positionner dans la hiérarchie, dont le haut est incontestablement occupé par Château d’Yquem, célèbre cru de Sauternes, dont la réputation n’a jamais été aussi forte. Ainsi, au fond, les petits vignobles de vin liquoreux étudiés ne permettent-ils pas de répondre à une question presque existentielle lorsqu’on veut vivre aujourd’hui d’une production vitivinicole en France ou même ailleurs : comment vendre du vin aujourd’hui ? / By acknowledging from 1936 the controlled designation of origin of the sweet wine "Monbazillac", the State, by means of the INAO, officially defines sweet wine as a local product, developed by a human know-how in an area of agronomic skills and in particular weather conditions. Nevertheless, in spite of the "produits du terroir" trend, in France, sweet wine seems very far away from having acquired the image of a local product and is situated at the bottom of the wine sector hierarchy. Its production is split up within the French wine-making productive space while this wine is mainly produced in the areas of influence within Bordeaux and Burgundy vineyards. Sweet wine is thus developed within small sweet wine vineyards, which are part of small sometimes even very small vineyards, just like the vineyards of Bergerac, Jurançon, Jura and Corrèze. Therefore, French sweet wine seems to forman "unthought" of wine geography, because it is not recognized as alocal product, and because it is developed within vineyards that are between larger ones, which are more dominant, on the outskirts of the wine-making zone. However, the wine terroir is a representation of the society that keeps it alive. Within the various spatial systems which constitute the wine-making terroirs being examined, wine professionals develop new territorial models, in territories recomposed by the reform of the wine-making sector promoted between 2006 and 2008 and rural spaces marked by the consequences of globalization. Strategies of distinction emerge then on all scales within these spaces to be better positioned within the hierarchy, the top of which is unmistakably occupied by the Château d’Yquem, a famous Sauternes vineyard, the reputation of which has never been so strong. So, in fact, do not the small sweet wine vineyards under study enable ananswer to an almost existential question when we want to live off wine production today in France, or even somewhere else: how can we sell wine today?

O município de Camaquã está situado na parte centro-sul do Estado do Rio Grande do Sul. Do ponto de vista do relevo situa-se parte na Planície Costeira e outra no Planalto Sul-rio-grandense. Esse município estende-se desde as margens da Laguna dos Patos até o topo do Planalto (platô). Conforme pesquisa realizada pelos pesquisadores do Prointer, o município encontra-se em situação de dinamismo, sendo considerado o polo da área em estudo, caracteriza-se por uma agricultura diversificada e intensiva, seja patronal, ou familiar, ambas aparentemente com elevada produtividade. A expansão da fumicultura nos últimos anos na encosta do planalto nesse município instigou o estudo dessa área. Sendo assim, para tentar compreender a complexidade da relação sociedade-natureza aí existente, formulouse a questão que norteou o desenvolvimento da pesquisa: Como as práticas agrícolas adotadas pelos fumicultores de Camaquã (RS), transformam a paisagem local, assim como, implementam a constituição de um terroir do fumo? Através da observação criteriosa da paisagem foi possível analisar e interpretar a dinâmica resultante da interrelação da paisagem e as práticas agrícolas na construção de um terroir do fumo no município. A unidade da paisagem e o seu terroir representam uma porção local, com dinâmica e funcionamento diferenciados, relacionando elementos da morfologia da paisagem e a ocupação do território através dos seus sistemas produtivos, em estreita relação com o contexto histórico. A coleta de dados constou de observação dos indicadores visuais como a ocupação, as práticas, as estruturas, as relações e as formas de apropriações, de entrevistas com agricultores e informantes-chave do município, da análise documental, de fotografias e do mapeamento do meio físico. Pode-se verificar uma estreita relação do contexto histórico na construção e na modificação da Unidade de Paisagem Encosta do Planalto e na implementação do terroir, que se resumiu em momentos distintos, como, a colonização pelos portugueses, a imigração dos pomeranos e a modernização da agricultura. / The municipality of Camaquã is situated in south-central part of Rio Grande do Sul. Of point of view of relief lies part in Coastal Plain and one in Plateau Sul-riograndense. The municipality stretches from the shores of the Laguna of Patos to the top of the Plateau. According to research conducted by researchers from Prointer, the municipality is in a state of dynamism and is considered the hub of the study area, characterized by an intensive and diversified agriculture, or employers, or family, both apparently with high productivity. The expansion of tobacco growing in recent years on the slope of the plateau in this city prompted the study of this area. So to try to understand the complexity of the society-nature existing there, he formulated the question that guided the development of research: How do agricultural practices adopted by growers of Camaquã (RS), transform the local landscape, as well as implement the formation of a terroir of smoking? Through careful observation of the landscape was possible to analyze and interpret the dynamics resulting from the interplay of landscape and agricultural practices in the construction of a terroir of smoking in the municipality. The unity of the landscape and its terroir representing a local portion, with different dynamics and functioning, relating elements of the morphology of the landscape and the occupation of territory through their productive systems, in close relation with the historical context. Data collection included observation of visual indicators such as occupation, practices, structures, relations and forms of appropriation, interviews with farmers and key informants in the municipality, the analysis of documents, photographs and the mapping of the physical. You can check a close relationship with the historical context in the construction and modification of the Unit for Landscape Hill of Plateau and the implementation of terroir, which is summarized at different times, as the colonization by the portuguese, the pomeranian immigration and modernization of agriculture. / El municipio de Camaquã está situado en el parte centro-sur de Río Grande do Sul. Del punto de vista de alivio se encuentra parte de la Llanura Costera y una Meseta en el Sur-rio-grandense. El municipio se extiende desde las Orillas de la Laguna de los Patos hasta la cima del Meseta. Según un estudio realizado por investigadores de PROINTER, el municipio está en un estado de dinamismo y es considerado como el centro del área de estudio, que se caracteriza por una agricultura intensiva y diversificada, patronal, o familiar, ambos com alta con una alta productividad. La expansión del cultivo de tabaco en los últimos años en la Ladera de la Meseta en este municipio, motivó el estudio de esta área. Así que para tratar de comprender la complejidad de la sociedad-naturaleza que allí existen, formuló la pregunta que guió el desarrollo de la investigación: ¿Cómo las prácticas agrícolas adoptadas por los productores de Camaquã (RS), transforma el paisaje local, así como aplicar la formación de un terroir del humo? A través de la observación cuidadosa del paisaje fue posible analizar e interpretar la dinámica resultante de la relación del paisaje y las prácticas agrícolas en la construcción de un terroir del humo en el municipio. La unidad del paisaje y su terruño que representan una parte local, con diferentes dinámicas y funcionamiento, sobre los elementos de la morfología del paisaje y la ocupación del territorio a través de sus sistemas productivos, en estrecha relación con el contexto histórico. La compilación de datos de observación de los indicadores visuales, tales como la ocupación, las prácticas, las estructuras de relaciones y formas de apropiación, entrevistas con los agricultores y los informantes clave en el municipio, el análisis de documentos, fotografías y la cartografía de la físico. Usted puede comprobar una estrecha relación con el contexto histórico en la construcción y modificación de la Unidad de Paisaje Ladera de la Meseta y la aplicación de terroir, que se resume en diferentes momentos, como la colonización por los portugueses, la inmigración pomerania y la modernización de la agricultura.

Avec l’intensification des prospections aériennes depuis les années 1960, la recherche sur les campagnes à la fin de l’âge du Fer a pris de l’ampleur. Elles apparaissent fortement occupées par des établissements matérialisés par des enclos quadrangulaires de morphologie plus ou moins complexe. L’évolution de l’archéologie préventive renouvelle ces données et permet une réflexion sur la chronologie, la morphologie, le fonctionnement et la hiérarchie de ces entités. Les analyses s’attardent particulièrement sur les enclos domestiques réunissant la plupart des activités évoquées à travers une importante quantité de mobilier. Depuis une vingtaine d’années, le développement de grandes ZAC a nécessité des décapages extensifs, comme pour la ZAC des Béliers à Brebières (Pas-de-Calais), pour Actiparc à côté d’Arras (Pas-de-Calais) ou dans la Plaine de Caen (Calvados). Ils ont mis en évidence des portions de territoire fortement structurées par des ensembles d’établissements ruraux se développant simultanément au sein d’un réseau de fossés parcellaires. Ils ont été nommés « terroirs ». Une nouvelle réflexion se développe alors : l’établissement rural ne peut plus être étudié comme une entité indépendante, mais bien comme s’insérant dans un ensemble complexe et appartenant à un réseau économique et social plus important / With the intensification of aerial surveys since the 1960s, research on the countryside at the end of the Iron Age has grown. It appears to be strongly occupied by enclosed rural settlements. The development of preventive archeology renews the data and allows a reflection on the chronology, morphology, function and hierarchy of these entities. Analyses focus on the domestic enclosed features gathering most of the activities apparent through a large amount of the artefacts. Since almost twenty years, the planning of ZAC required excavations of large areas as the ZAC des Béliers in Brebières (Pasde- Calais), Actiparc near Arras (Pas-de-Calais) or the Plaine de Caen (Calvados). They brought out portions of highly structured territory by sets of rural settlements occupied simultaneously in land plots. They were named «terroir». A new approach of the countryside is fixed : a rural settlement can not be studied as an independent entity, but as a complex set inserted in a greater economic and social system