När vikingatiden kommer på tal, leds tankarna ofta osökt till Birka. För även om Birka låg på en ö i Mälaren, så var det allt annat än isolerat. Istället ingick Birka i ett komplext nätverk som täckte såväl nära bygder som fjärran stränder. Därav följer att nyckeln till vår förståelse av Mälardalens vikingatid ofta finns i Birka. Men även det motsatta gäller, och ibland behöver arkeologer titta åt andra håll för att uppnå en bättre förståelse av Birka. Detta ömsesidiga förhållande ska illustreras med hjälp av ett båtgravsfynd från Turinge i Södermanland. / <p>Övriga forskningsfinansiärer:</p><p>Berit Wallenbergs stiftelse ("Transformationer inom vikingatidens djurornamentik"), Helge Ax:son Jonsons stiftelse ("3D-laserskanning som verktyg vid vikingatidsstudier")</p> / En förlorad värld? - Turinge re-visited / 3D-laserskanning som verktyg vid vikingatidsstudier / Transformationer inom vikingatidens djurornamentik

[pt] O campo joalheiro do Rio de Janeiro vivencia uma realidade impulsionada pela profissionalização de vários setores envolvidos principalmente com as etapas de criação, produção, comercialização e divulgação de novos produtos no mercado. Este cenário vem se configurando desde os anos 1990, quando o design do produto joia passa a ser trabalhado com a intenção de proporcionar novas experiências de consumo, reafirmando sobre seus usuários um encantamento pelo objeto que pode ir além do valor financeiro de sua matéria-prima, tão estimado pelas tradicionais gerações de joalheiros, e que ainda é tida como o argumento número 1 na criação de uma joia. Os cursos superiores, tecnólogos e de aprimoramento no setor, em conjunto com as novas tecnologias fabris, também trouxeram oportunidades para o campo e hoje dividem espaço com as técnicas artesanais de produção de joias. Estas, ainda muito utilizadas, resgatam as origens históricas desse objeto, que é trabalhado pelos designers sob uma nova leitura. Esta pesquisa apresenta uma breve reflexão sobre a importância da prática do design e sua atual contribuição para o campo presente no estado do Rio de Janeiro. / [en] The jewelry field in Rio de Janeiro has showed a reality driven by the professionalization of several sectors, committed mainly with the steps of creation, production, commercialization and marketing of new products. This scenery has been outlined since the 1990 s, when the design of the product jewelry started to be worked out with the intention of offer new consumer experiences, confirming on its wearers an enchantment by the object beyond the financial value of its raw material, so appreciated by the traditional generations of jewelers, and which still is considered the argument number one for the creation of jewelry. Undergraduate courses offered by universities, technical courses and any other formation to improve professionals of this sector, together with new technologies for the textile industry, have also brought opportunities for the field, and today they share this space with the artisanal techniques for the production of jewelry. Still quite used, they bring back the historical origins of this object, which has been revisited by the designers. This research presents a brief reflection about the importance of the design and its current contribution to the field in the Rio de Janeiro state.

M.A. / During the second half of the fifth-century B.C. there was a sudden proliferation of Attic vases depicting adornment scenes. These scenes showed groups of women making themselves desirable and for the first time women were eroticised within the context of marriage. Some scholars have argued that this sudden abundance reflected a change in the Attic attitude towards women, reflecting their increased social standing. These scholars proposed various hypotheses. It is conjectured that Perikles' Citizenship Law of 451/450 increased the social standing of Athenian daughters. The Peloponnesian War that raged from 431 to 404 BCE might also have forced women to take on more public responsibilities; to fill the gaps left by the military men's absence. This would explain why private activities of women became the subject matter of vase paintings at that time. According to this viewpoint women became the new customers of the potters. There are even scholars who maintain that these scenes contain hints of sexual liaisons between women. A competing hypothesis is that these scenes were used to impose a patriarchal ideal of femininity onto girls preparing themselves for marriage. Both these approaches imply that women were the primary viewers of these scenes. The aim of this study is to evaluate these hypotheses and to explore whether there may be other explanations. In order to investigate these issues a visual semiotic analysis was performed of thirteen painted vases representative of a variety of painters and vase shapes. This analysis was done in two parts: a structural analysis and a pragmatic analysis. The structural analysis consisted of a syntactic and semantic analysis, and helped to identify the pertinent signs and what they refer to. Artistic principles and the theory of Gestalt played an important role in identifying key signs. The pragmatic analysis delved deeper and was used to establish what message Athenian men and women might have read into these painted vases. This brought to light the master narrative prescribed by the patriarchy as well as women's acceptance thereof and how women used it to condition their daughters. A new hypothesis is proposed to explain the increase in this type of subject matter on painted vases. It is concluded that the buyers of the vases were mostly men but that the consumers of these artistic scenes were both male and female. It is also probable that after the Peloponnesian War these vases depicted a return to basic patriarchal values that may have degenerated during the war. It was also found that Perikles' Citizenship Law would have contributed more to the social standing of the male guardian, than to that of a girl of marriageable age. The eroticisation of women within the confines of marriage would thus have propagated the message of procreation within the patriarchal family structure, rather than referring to erotic encounters between women. These scenes, instead of showing the increased social standing of women, reflect a reinforcement of patriarchal values.

[pt] Na atual conjuntura do país os modos de trabalho tornam-se cada vez mais fragmentados, direcionando os profissionais para a atuação individual e informal. Este processo reverbera em diversos setores produtivos, dentre eles o Setor de Gemas, Joias e Afins. Para os profissionais do Campo do Design, que se direcionam para o trabalho com joalheria, a criação de marca própria é um destes modos de atuação autônoma proporcionados pela estrutura. Paralelamente, as redes sociais digitais são divulgadas como uma das formas de resolução para os problemas sociais que decorrem deste contexto. Esta dissertação apresenta uma reflexão sobre a atuação profissional de designers de joias autônomos dentro de uma destas redes, o Instagram, tendo como ponto de partida a análise das construções sociais que deram origem ao Campo do Design no Brasil, bem como ao Setor de Gemas, Joias e Afins. Objetiva-se compreender como estes trabalhadores se constituem enquanto agentes do setor, e identificar as potencialidades e os obstáculos que encontram neste contexto. / [en] In the current context of the country, an outcome of the capitalist structure in which we are inserted, the ways of working are becoming increasingly fragmented, directing professionals to individual and informal labour. This process reverberates in several productive sectors, among them the Gem, Jewellry and Related Sector. For professionals in the field of Design who aim to work with jewellry, the creation of their own brand is one of these modes of autonomous action provided by the structure. At the same time, digital social networks are widespread as one of the ways of solving the social problems that arise from this context. This dissertation presents a reflection on the professional performance of autonomous jewelry designers within one of these digital social networks, Instagram, having as a starting point the analysis of the social constructions that gave rise to the Design Field in Brazil, as well as the Gem Sector, Jewelry and the like. The objective is to understand how these workers constitute themselves as agents of the sector, and to identify the potentialities and obstacles they find in this context.

This thesis examines the hair imagery that runs through the works of Propertius, Tibullus, and Ovid. Comparative analysis of the elegists’ approaches to the motif, with particular emphasis on determining where and how each deviates from the cultural assumptions and literary tradition attached to each image, sheds light on the character and purposes of elegy as a genre, as well as on the individual aims and innovations of each poet. The Introduction provides some background on sociological approaches to the study of hair, and considers the reasons why hair imagery should have such a prominent presence in elegy. Chapter 1 focuses on the elegists’ engagement with the idea of cultus (‘cultivation’), and their manipulation of the connotations traditionally attached to elaborate hairstyles, of sophistication on the one hand, and immorality on the other, to suit an elegiac context. Chapter 2 looks at how the complexities of the power relationship between the lover and his mistress play out in references to violent hair-pulling. Chapter 3 focuses on the sometimes positively and sometimes negatively spun image of grey-haired lovers, as a reflection of the lover-poet’s own contradictory wishes for his relationship with his mistress; it also considers grey hair as a symbol of physical mortality, as contrasted with poetic immortality. Chapter 4 examines the use of images of loose hair (especially images of dishevelled mourning) to suggest connotations ranging from the erotic to the pathetic, and focuses on the effects the elegists achieve by using a single image to communicate multiple implications. The Conclusion considers the ‘afterlife’ of elegiac hair imagery: the influence that their approaches had on later authors’ handling of similar images.

L'étude des bijoux - notion complexe pour la période prise en examen - et de leurs représentations, s'appuie sur l'analyse des images en deux dimensions de la Vallée d'Aoste, du Piémont, de Ligurie et de Lombardie aux XIVe et XVe siècle. Elle vise à observer les contextes et les types de support permettant d'observer des détails comme les objets précieux, ainsi qu'à déterminer les grands groupes de commanditaires des images mettant en scène ces objets. Elle vise ensuite à analyser la fréquence d'apparition des différents bijoux et accessoires de parure, ainsi qu'à déterminer les catégories de personnages les plus ornées, tout en confrontant ces résultats avec les autres sources à notre disposition: mobilier archéologique, objets d'orfèvrerie, documentation comptable, inventaires après décès, lois somptuaires, récits de chroniqueurs, sermons, correspondance, poésie, ainsi que les Lapidaires dédiés aux gemmes. Sont abordées les particularités mises en avant par les images, qui insistent sur les différentes valeurs morales attachées à chaque type d'objet de parure, à l'endroit du corps auquel il était destiné ainsi qu'au rang de celui qui les portait.Le recours à plusieurs études relevant du domaine de l'anthropologie historique permet d'observer le rôle important des occasions qui requéraient le port de ces objets ou qui en commandaient les échanges, découlant des nécessités imposées par un cérémonial très ritualisé, lors duquel les objets de parure jouaient un rôle de représentation et de protection.L'analyse s'oriente sur la « stratégie » déployée par les images et leurs commanditaires, au sein d'une logique des apparences visant à légitimer leur position. / The study about jewels and adornment accessories - a complex notion for the period in examination - and their representations, leans on the analysis of the two-dimensions images produced in Aosta Valley, Piedmont, Liguria and Lombardy in the 14th and 15th century.It aims at observing contexts and types of medium allowing images to show such details as jewels and adornment accessories, when still visible, and to determine the different groups of people who subscribed the images where these objects appear.It aims at analyzing the frequency of appearance of the various jewels and dress adornments, as well as determining which are the most decorated categories of characters, while confronting these results with the other sources at our disposal: archeological and goldsmiths' work finds, account books, inventories, sumptuary laws, chroniclers narratives, sermons, correspondence, poetry, and a particular genre of literature dedicated to gemstones: Lapidaries.The particularities advanced by images insist on the various moral values attached to every type of jewel and adornment object, their location on the body, as well as the rank of their owner.The recourse to several studies belonging to the historic anthropology domain allows focusing on the important role played by the occasions which required the bearing of these objects or which commanded their exchanges, ensuing from a ritualized ceremonial, during which the finery objects played a role of representation as well as protection.Finally, the analysis turns on the "strategy" displayed by images and, especially by those who ordered them, joining within logic of appearances, in order to legitimize their position. / Lo studio dei gioielli – nozione complessa per il periodo preso in esame – e delle loro rappresentazioni, si basa sull’analisi delle immagini a due dimensioni prodotte nella Valle d’Aosta, in Piemonte, Liguria e Lombardia ne Trecento e Quattrocento. Mira innanzitutto ad osservare quali sono i contesti ed i tipi di produzione che permettono di osservare dettagli come gli accessori ornamentali, quando questi sono ancora reperibili, così come a determinare i grandi gruppi di promotori delle immagini raffiguranti questi oggetti. Mira poi ad analizzare in modo quantitativo la frequenza delle apparizione di quei differenti tipi di gioielli ed accessori preziosi, nonchè a determinare quali sono le categorie di personaggi più ornati, pure confrontando questi risultati con le altre fonti a disposizione. Tra queste si annoverano reperti archeologici e oggetti di oreficeria, ma anche fonti scritte : documentazione archivistica contabile, inventari, leggi suntuarie, opere di cronisti, sermoni, corrispondenza, poesia, così come une tipo particolare dedicato alle gemme : i Lapidari. Sono così evidenziate le particolarità messe in luce dalle immagini, che insistono sulle differenti caratteristiche morali legate ad ogni tipo di oggetti presi in conto, alla parte del corpo alla quale era destinato, così come al rango sociale di chi lo portava. Il ricorso a parecchi studi che rientrano nel campo dell’antropologia storica permette di osservare il ruolo importante delle occasioni che richiedevano di ornarsi con questi oggetti o che ne determinavano gli scambi, il che dérivava dalle necessità imposte da un cerimoniale molto ritualizzato, nel quale quegli oggetti preziosi assumevano nello stesso tempo una funzione di rappresentazione et di protezione. Infine, l’analisi si orienta sulla « strategia » sviluppata dalle immagini, e sopratutto dai loro donatori, iscrivendosi in una logica delle apparenze che tendeva a legittimare la loro posizione.

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Based on what body adornment has been throughout history, this project investigates what it might be in the future. The possibilities, forms and methods of body adornment has changed and will continue to change over time, along with our societal and environmental shifts as well as with developments in science and technology. Our bodies are increasingly perceived as malleable objects that we can modify, enhance and improve. I use speculation as a method to explore how the human body may develop and be modified in the future. I envision a world where we have become increasingly intertwined with technologies, where environmental changes and our lifestyle have affected our biology, and where our bodies have continued to be altered based on social norms. Through this project I have become some kind of contemporary Frankenstein scientist, although I am not in a laboratory but in a jewellery workshop. My objects, which I call potential jewellery, or maybe-jewellery, are presented in an installation in the form of a clinical setting. It is a representation of where body adornment meets medical technology, where jewellery meets prostheses and implants. This project does not have any answers or a clear message about what is right or wrong – it is based on a curiosity without having a conclusion in mind. The installation is meant to be a reminder that our bodies are always adorned, modified and in transformation – that we are in an ongoing metamorphosis from one state to another.

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No description available.