Orientador: Élson Luciano Silva Pires / Banca: Sílvia Selingardi-Sampaio / Banca: Claudete de Castro Silva Vitte / Resumo: A presente dissertação aborda, por meio de ampla revisão teórica e estudo empírico, a relação entre as noções de território e competitividade ao considerar que o sucesso das empresas na atualidade está relacionado a elementos específicos das regiões e localidades onde estão inseridas, através de seus recursos, organizações, instituições e externalidades. Para tanto, a noção de Arranjo Produtivo Local (APL) se coloca como instrumento de intercâmbio entre a busca de competitividade e a base territorial da atividade econômica, articulando os atores locais em estratégias coletivas para fortalecimento da competitividade do ambiente de negócios, sendo evidente tal relação no Circuito das Malhas do sul de Minas Gerais. Trata-se de região formada por pequenos municípios especializados na produção de artigos de vestuário em pequenas malharias, produção voltada predominantemente para o mercado nacional. A hipótese aventada é que a configuração sócioprodutiva do Circuito se aproxima muito da idéia de Arranjo produtivo local em fase de consolidação por conta do aglomerado de empresas ali existentes e do arcabouço institucional que as serve. Por fim, propõe-se um estudo da competitividade territorial, abordando as estratégias concorrenciais da região para uso de recursos específicos do território, à luz das categorias principais definidoras da moderna competitividade. / Abstract: The present dissertation treats, by means of ample theoretical revision and empirical study, the relationship between the notions of territory and competitiveness when considering that the economic success of the companies in the present time is related to specific elements of regional localities where they are inserted through its resources, organizations, institutions and externalities. This way, the notion of Local Productive Arrangements (APL) takes place as instrument of interchange between the search of competitiveness and the territorial base of the economic activity, articulating the local actors in common strategies for stress of business-oriented competitiveness of the environment, being latent such relationship in Minas Gerais south Circuit Tourist of Knitted clothes. This is a region formed of small cities that had been specialized in clothes production to be sold in small shops, directed specially to the national market. The hypothesis is that the partner-productive configuration of the Circuit approaches to the idea of Local Productive Arrangement in consolidation phase, for account of the accumulation of these existing companies and partner-institutional bases being settled. Finally, a study of the "territorial competitiveness" is considered, approaching the strategies of concurrence of the region to the use of specific resources of the territory by defining the main categories of the modern competitiveness. / Mestre

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:27:52Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2007-01-16Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:36:24Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 fuini_ll_me_rcla.pdf: 1250437 bytes, checksum: 246aa19e54cf6cfe1cce2acc942d50f1 (MD5) / A presente dissertação aborda, por meio de ampla revisão teórica e estudo empírico, a relação entre as noções de território e competitividade ao considerar que o sucesso das empresas na atualidade está relacionado a elementos específicos das regiões e localidades onde estão inseridas, através de seus recursos, organizações, instituições e externalidades. Para tanto, a noção de Arranjo Produtivo Local (APL) se coloca como instrumento de intercâmbio entre a busca de competitividade e a base territorial da atividade econômica, articulando os atores locais em estratégias coletivas para fortalecimento da competitividade do ambiente de negócios, sendo evidente tal relação no Circuito das Malhas do sul de Minas Gerais. Trata-se de região formada por pequenos municípios especializados na produção de artigos de vestuário em pequenas malharias, produção voltada predominantemente para o mercado nacional. A hipótese aventada é que a configuração sócioprodutiva do Circuito se aproxima muito da idéia de Arranjo produtivo local em fase de consolidação por conta do aglomerado de empresas ali existentes e do arcabouço institucional que as serve. Por fim, propõe-se um estudo da competitividade territorial, abordando as estratégias concorrenciais da região para uso de recursos específicos do território, à luz das categorias principais definidoras da moderna competitividade. / The present dissertation treats, by means of ample theoretical revision and empirical study, the relationship between the notions of territory and competitiveness when considering that the economic success of the companies in the present time is related to specific elements of regional localities where they are inserted through its resources, organizations, institutions and externalities. This way, the notion of Local Productive Arrangements (APL) takes place as instrument of interchange between the search of competitiveness and the territorial base of the economic activity, articulating the local actors in common strategies for stress of business-oriented competitiveness of the environment, being latent such relationship in Minas Gerais south Circuit Tourist of Knitted clothes. This is a region formed of small cities that had been specialized in clothes production to be sold in small shops, directed specially to the national market. The hypothesis is that the partner-productive configuration of the Circuit approaches to the idea of Local Productive Arrangement in consolidation phase, for account of the accumulation of these existing companies and partner-institutional bases being settled. Finally, a study of the territorial competitiveness is considered, approaching the strategies of concurrence of the region to the use of specific resources of the territory by defining the main categories of the modern competitiveness.

Flame retardant chemicals were used to make flammable fibres or fabrics flame retardant. Flame retardants protect the flammable material from fire by delaying or preventing the ignition process. The problem with flame retardants is unreliable durability when applied physically or bonded chemically on the surface of the fibre or fabric. This thesis project investigated the implementation of inherently flame retardant fibres as a shield form flame for flammable fibres. The most widely used flammable textiles fibres (cotton and polyester) were mixed with inherently flame retardant fibres (modacrylic and Lenzing FR) pairwise at fibre level for non-woven fabric and both fibre & yarn level for knitted fabric. The vertical flame test, where the fabric hung vertically and burned from the bottom, was used to characterise their burning behaviour. With the vertical flame test, it was found that flame shielding ability of inherently flame retardant fibres towards flammable fibres improves with an increasing proportion of inherently flame retardant fibres in the fabric. Also, fabric structure influences the shielding properties of the flame retardant fibres. A comparison between fibre and yarn level mixing for knitted fabric yarn level mixing was found to have better flame shielding properties. Thesis work points out the issue with flame retardant chemical and presents an alternative approach for conventional flame retardant.

Textilindustrin är en industri som ständigt växer och utvecklas. År 1995 introducerade det japanska företaget Shima Seiki den första maskinen med de tekniska egenskaperna, som gjorde det möjligt att producera ett trikåplagg med complete garment teknik. Denna introduktion revolutionerade tillverkningstekniken för dessa plagg. Denna studie har skrivits som ett examensarbete på kandidatnivå inom Textilingenjörsprogrammets avslutande del på Högskolan i Borås. Studiens huvudsakliga syfte var att undersöka vilket produktionssätt som var mest effektivt tidsmässigt vid produktion av ett plagg i finstickad trikå, ur ett supply chain perspektiv. Två olika tillverkningsmetoder valdes ut, konventionell och complete garment. Jämförelsen baserades på tidsbedömning av tillverkningsmetodernas supply chain som undersöktes med hjälp av en värdeflödesanalys. Plagget som valdes ut var en tröja, i finstickad trikå, och utifrån detta utfördes en litteraturstudie med fokus på olika produktionsmetoder och logistik. Med utgångspunkt i litteraturstudien upprättades två varianter av varuflöden till de olika tillverkningsmetoderna. En tidsstudie utfördes grundat på de två olika varuflödena, som baserades på egna studier i kombination med intervjuer av experter inom området. Sammanställning av tidsstudien och värdeflödesanalysen visade att det fanns för- och nackdelar med de båda tillverkningsmetoderna. En nackdel som framkom var non-value-added faktorerna väntetid och planering inför produktion, som visade sig vara svåra att undvika i de båda tillverkningsmetoderna. Fördelarna var att de non-value-added faktorerna i complete garment tillverkningens supply chain kunde kortas ner. Efter analys av vilka krav som ställdes, på non-value-added faktorerna för varuflödet hos respektive tillverkningsmetod, kunde slutsatsen dras att complete garment tillverkningens varuflöde är att föredra om man ville ha en snabb påfyllnad av varor till butik utan att ha varorna på lager. / Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen

Denna rapport presenterar det examensarbete som gjorts i samarbete med företaget Artimplant. Syftet med arbetet är att ta fram en prototyp av ett meniskimplantat i trikåteknik. Det kräver stickning av en given form och att prototypen ska inneha vissa egenskaper.Ämnesområden som berörs under arbetets gång är textiltillverkning med inriktning mot väfttrikå samt medicinsk textil. Förutom textila ämnesområden tas även ämnen som knäledens anatomi och meniskens uppbyggnad, funktion och skador upp. Kunskaper inom dessa områden krävs för att på bästa sätt ta fram prototyper av meniskimplantat.Att sticka det triangulära tvärsnittet och den böjda formen som krävs för ett meniskimplantat har varit ett arbete som pågått under hela projektet. För att åstadkomma detta och erhålla egenskaper som krävs för en prototyp av ett meniskimplantat har diskussioner förts med produktutvecklare och tekniker, både på Artimplant och på Textilhögskolan för att diskutera möjligheter och utformning. Även möte med ortoped och en av initiativtagarna till Artimplant har givit värdefull information kring hur en prototyp till ett meniskimplantat bör utformas. Dessutom diskuteras och analyseras frågor kring industrialisering av processen och framtagning av kravspecifikation samt hur prototyper förhåller sig till den framtagna kravspecifikationen.Varje enskild prototyp granskas efter framtagning och utvalda prototyper genomgår tester där resultaten jämförs mellan dessa samt enligt kravspecifikation. Detta tillvägagångssätt möjliggör ständiga förbättringar för varje prototyp som tas fram.En slutlig prototyp av ett meniskimplantat har tagits fram och dess egenskaper och utformning möter den framtagna kravspecifikationen. Dess grepp och känsla är liknande en naturlig menisk då den är töj- och formbar, elastisk samt har en slät yta. Formbarheten på prototypen möjliggör anpassning av storlek och positionering vilket medför bra integration till ledytorna. Ytterligare likheter som prototypen har med en naturlig menisk är dess förmåga att stå emot deformation vid kompression.This report presents the thesis that was executed at the company Artimplant. The purpose of this work is to produce a prototype of a meniscus implant in knitted technology. It demands knitting a specific shape and that the prototype shall possess certain properties.The subjects that the report covers are textile manufacturing with focus on weft knits and medical textile. Besides subjects concerning textile technology there are also subjects as the anatomy of knee joint and the meniscus structure, function and damage. Knowledge in these areas is required to develop a prototype of a meniscus implant in the best way as possible.Knitting the triangular cross section and getting the curved shape that a meniscus implant requires have been under constant development during the project. To achieve this design and to obtain required properties for a prototype of a meniscus implant have discussion been held with product developer and technicians, both at Artimplant and at the Swedish School of Textile, to discuss the opportunities and design. Meetings with an orthopaedic, who also was one of the initiators of Artimplant, have provided valuable information regarding the design of a prototype of a meniscus implant. Furthermore, issues related to industrialization of the process, composing a requirement specification and how prototypes are related to the requirement specification are discussed and analyzed.Each produced prototype is analyzed and thereafter prototypes are selected for further tests. The results from the tests are compared between the selected prototypes and according to the requirement specification. This line of action allows continuous improvement for each produced prototype.A final prototype of a meniscus implant has been developed and its properties and design fulfil all of the criteria in the requirement specification. Its hand is similar to a natural meniscus because of its stretchability, elasticity, flexibility and the surface smoothness. The flexibility of the prototype allows adjustments of size and positioning which results in good integration to the knee-joint. Further resemblance is the prototype’s ability to resist deformation during compression. / Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen

Knitting Big är ett undersökande examensarbete i textildesign med fokus på stickningens möjligheter och förmåga att skapa tredimensionalitet i relation till en möbel. Syftet var att få kunskap i stickningens möjligheter till volym samt att svara på frågeställningarna: Hur förändrar den strukturerade textilen intrycket av formen? Jag vill även ta reda på vad etablerade möbelföretag anser om trikåns möjligheter inom möbeltextil. Projektet har utformats i skolans tre trikåtekniker: handstickning/handmaskin, industriell rundstickning samt industriell flatstick. Under projektet har jag samarbetat med möbelföretaget Homeline. Resultatet av projektet är tre stycken separata textilier som alla ger exempel på volym i trikå. Textilierna är monterade som textila överdrag på pallen ”Polly Fat” från möbelföretaget Homelines sortiment. / Knitting Big is a BA degree project in textile design that investigate knitted fabrics possibilities and ability’s to create three-dimensional textile in relation to a furniture. The aim was to learn more about knittings potential in volume and to answer the questions: How is structured textile changing the impression of the form? And what does the established furniture companies think about the possibilities of knitted fabrics in upholstery? The project has been developed in the school’s three tricot techniques: hand knitting / hand machine, industrial circular knitting and industrial flat knitting. During the project I have collaborated with the furniture company Homeline. The result of the project is three separate fabrics which all demonstrate volume in tricot. They are mounted as textile coatings on the stool ”Polly Fat” from the furniture company Homeline.

Le tricotage est une technique d'obtention de textiles ancestrale qui est encore couramment utilisée de nos jours. Cette technique permet de produire des textiles possédant une forte déformation élastique, un comportement mécanique anisotrope modifiable simplement en jouant sur la géométrie de la maille, la possibilité d'obtenir des formes générales (préformes) ou internes (trous) durant le procédé de fabrication, rendant ces textiles particulièrement attractifs et rentables. Plus récemment, l’utilisation des alliages à mémoire de forme (AMF), en particulier de fils de Nickel-Titane (Ni-Ti), pour produire ces tricots a permis de proposer des textiles aux fonctionnalités nouvelles, telles qu'une très grande déformation élastique, un changement de forme sous l'effet d'un échauffement, une forte capacité d’amortissement, etc.Cependant, le comportement mécanique de tels tricots AMF reste encore assez mal connu, et bien qu'un certain nombre d'études aient déjà été proposées dans la littérature concernant la caractérisation du comportement mécanique de ces tricots, l'application aux tricots NiTi reste insuffisamment faite.Dans ce travail, un ensemble d’outils expérimentaux et numériques a été mis en place pour étudier la déformation des tricots NiTi, en particulier pour évaluer l'influence des paramètres matériaux, géométrie, frottements, etc., sur le comportement mécanique. Un montage expérimental a été développé pour caractériser le textile en traction biaxiale. Il s'inspire des techniques utilisées pour les membranes souples visant à obtenir un champ de déformation le plus uniforme possible dans la zone déformée. De plus, sa conception ainsi qu’un programme de traitement d'images permettent la mesure de la distribution des efforts aux frontières ainsi que la mesure de la morphologie des mailles du tricot au cours de la déformation.Le comportement mécanique du tricot a été modélisé par homogénéisation numérique en réalisant des simulations numériques par éléments finis sur une maille représentative sous conditions périodiques. Les prédictions des simulations sont validées en regard des résultats expérimentaux obtenus sur les tricots NiTi, en traction simple et traction biaxiale suivant les directions chaine et trame. Elles sont ensuite utilisées pour analyser l'importance des différents mécanismes de déformation en fonction de la sollicitation étudiée. / Knitting is an ancestral textile manufacturing technique which is still commonly used nowadays. This method allows to manufacture textiles possessing high recoverable strains, an anisotropic mechanical behavior easily tuned by varying the knit loop dimensions, the ability to obtain general forms (preforms) or internal forms (holes) during the manufacturing process, and more, making those textiles particularly attractive and cost-efficient. More recently, the use of Shape Memory Alloys (SMA), notably Nickel-Titanium (Ni-Ti) wires, for producing those textiles allowed to propose textiles with new functional properties, such as very high recoverable strains, shape-shifting effects under temperature changes, high damping capacity, etc.However, such SMA knitted textiles mechanical behavior remains relatively unknown, and even if a certain number of studies have dealt with the knitted textiles mechanical characterization, the application to NiTi knitted textiles remains insufficiently done.In this work, a set of experimental and numerical tools have been developed to study knitted NiTi textiles deformation, especially to evaluate the influence of material parameters, knit geometry, friction, etc., on the mechanical behavior. An experimental setup has been developed to characterize such textiles in biaxial tension. It is inspired by methods developed for soft membranes aiming at obtaining strain fields as uniform as possible in the sample working area. Furthermore, its conception as well as a dedicated image processing software allow measuring boundary forces distributions and knit loops morphology during deformation.The knitted textile mechanical behavior has been modeled using numerical homogenization method by performing finite elements numerical simulation of a representative knit loop under periodic conditions. Simulations predictions are validated in regard to experimental results obtained on knitted NiTi textiles, in simple tension and biaxial tension in course and wale directions. They are then used to analyze the importance of different deformation mechanisms depending on the loading case studied.

What can knitted fragments tell you? A textile scientific analysis of marine archeological finds from the 18th century. The wreck of the ship Fyrspännaren is a time capsule that provides a unique opportunity for knowledge. The purpose of this study is to increase knowledge about knitted garments and their importance in the dress code for men and women during the 1770s. An additional purpose is to test whether the knitted fragments can contribute to the interpretation of the history of the wreck. The study uses the theory and method of Material Culture. The knitted fragments are the main source of information. In the analysis, additional sources are also used.  It turns out that the silk socks in the late 18th century could look different from the white socks we often see depicted in paintings. There are at least eleven different types of silk socks in different colours and with different pattern knitting in the material. Most were machine-knitted, several were well-used and repaired. But they were still highly valued, according to inserted inquiries in the newspapers of the time. There were also knitted garments in cotton such as socks, hat and sweaters.  The knitted fragments can also contribute to the interpretation of the history of the wreck. The study of the fragments confirms and strengthens previous conclusions that the passenger on the ship was relatively young, well-to-do and well aware of both male and female fashion. In summary, this study shows that marine archaeological finds of textiles, that are analysed with a textile scientific method and within a cultural-historical and economic-historical context, can contribute to new knowledge.

Technologies that facilitate reusing and recycling printed textile products will contribute to achieving a circular textile industry. This project was done in collaboration with Vividye, a company developing a technology to create removable textile prints to be able to extend the lifespan of screen-printed textile products without affecting their quality. The technology involves several steps, including re-formulating printing paste and using a treatment to remove the print. This particular treatment consists of the use of different organic solvents. The aim of this project was to evaluate the effect of four organic solvent treatments, which are of interest to the company, on the physical and sensorial properties of conventional cotton (CO) and polyester (PET) knitted fabrics. Three cycles of the treatment were evaluated. Significant changes in yarn and fabric properties, such as tension and thickness, were found after the treatment, also for fabric sensorial properties, such as stiffness, softness, and smoothness. The behavior was different for each type of material which can be attributed to the affinity between the polymer and the solvent and the polymer, yarn, and fabric structure that facilitates the swelling. The properties assessed within this project can be related to the fabric's quality and feel. Therefore, it can be an essential factor in the user's preferences or influence the material's printability.

Smarta textilier och e-textilier har, sedan de först började forskas på, haft ett potentiellt användningsområde inom sjukvården, för att användas inom långtidsövervakning av sjuka. Det största hindret som har upptäckts är, förutom att det finns vissa svårigheter med stabiliteten på signalerna från textilierna och att signalerna kan störas av brus, är att de har varit svåra att tvätta. De elektriskt ledande materialen har antagits förstörda av värmen, kemikalierna och det mekaniska arbetet från tvätten. Den här studien fokuserar på hur ledningsbanorna reagerar över lag på tvätt, och om det finns något samband mellan de olika mätmetoderna. Denna rapport testar två olika bindningar för att tillverka en stickad elektrisk ledningsbana, där en ledningsbana ligger exponerad och en ligger isolerad i bakgrundstyget. Flera olika bredder på ledningsbanan tillverkas för att undersöka om det finns någon skillnad mellan dem. Genom att testa resistansen på ledningsbanan, kontaktimpedansen mellan hud och elektrod, och böjstyvheten på fibrerna från det ledande garnet med hjälp av en FAVIMAT+ från TexTechno innan någon tvätt hade utförts, och sedan var femte tvätt upp till 30 tvättar, kan förändringen följas över en längre tid. Med de resultat som samlades in utfördes en ANOVA för varje mätmetod. Sedan utfördes flera korrelationstester, däribland SpearmanRho tester och även ett program för att anpassa en kurva till mätvärdena användes. De resultat som studien kom fram till pekar på att det inte finns något samband mellan ökningen av resistans och ökningen av kontaktimpedans. Resultaten från böjstyvheten var för brusiga för att några slutsatser skulle kunna dras. Det visar sig även att en bredare ledningsbana, och den bindning som isolerade ledningsbanan presterade bättre och hade en mindre ökning över tid än vad de smalare och exponerade ledningsbanorna hade. / Smart textiles and e-textiles have since they first started being researched had a potential to be used in the medical field to monitor sick people over a longer time. The biggest obstacle for the implementation of the smart textiles, except for the difficulty in getting a stable and clean signal, is the conductive yarns inability to handle being washed. The conductive yarn is thought to lose its conductivity due to the heat, chemicals and mechanical work it is exposed to during the wash. The focus of this study is how the conductive tracks react to washing, and if there is any correlation between the different methods of measuring. This report will test two different patterns for creating a knitted conductive track, one where the track will be exposed on the surface of the fabric, and one where it will be isolated between layers of the fabric. Different widths of the track will be tested to see if there is any difference between them. By measuring the resistance of the conductive track, the contact impedance between the skin and electrode and the bending stiffness of the fibers of the conductive yarn before any washes had been carried out, and then after every fifth wash, up to 30 washes, it was possible to track the changes over a longer period. With the results that were collected, an ANOVA was carried out for each of the testing methods. Thereafter several correlation tests were carried out, among others a SpearmanRho and a program that tried to fit a curve to the data points. The results that the study concluded were that there was no correlation between the increase in resistance and the increase of the contact impedance. The results from the bending stiffness were too inconclusive for any conclusions to be made. It also showed that a wider track and the pattern that isolated the track performed better than the thinner tracks and the pattern that exposed the track. The wider isolated track had lower increase of resistance over time that the thin exposed tracks had.